Author Topic: What do you do with a 2006, 115k DMax,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, (Read 45134 times)

rpar86 · « **Reply #300 on:** June 28, 2021, 12:23:35 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on June 28, 2021, 11:24:36 AM

JR, can you pinpoint the noise?

I ask because I’ve had an annoying sort of clunk for a couple years now.
Been through everything.
A buddy asked me if I had and said yeah.

On the torsion bar key crossmember ends, there are bushings.
His were shot.
So are mine.

Something to look at if you haven’t.

I just replaced those bushings… what a pain.

JR · « **Reply #301 on:** June 28, 2021, 12:57:44 PM »

I cannot pin point, been trying. It is mechanical in the drivetrain for sure. Not a clunk but a definite rattle/clink when braking or turning left.

I thought the E brakes looked good, solid 1/8 all around. I have new pads and rotors, wondering if I should do the calipers too? No slop, no rust, pads about 1/2 warn, no signs of leakage on them or the regular seals.

Maybe I will do those bushing during the lift, you say they are a pain? This; https://youtu.be/hQRbda_PW1M

JR · « **Reply #302 on:** July 02, 2021, 02:35:06 AM »

Brakes don't look to bad for 218k, but this might be the issue. Even though there is pad they are cracked and looks like the there is some skipping on the rotors. Found the pinion seal is leaking too.

JR · « **Reply #303 on:** July 02, 2021, 02:39:59 AM »

Finished it 2230 tonight, wore out. Fronts were way easier since it was just the brakes.

Just need to break them in tomorrow and torque wheels.

Also sucked as much 15 year old fluid out as I could (nasty) since I was pushing it all backwards anyway.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #304 on:** July 02, 2021, 08:28:32 AM »

Then new rotors aught to make stopping a better experience for ya

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #305 on:** July 02, 2021, 11:51:49 AM »

Get you a pressure bleeder and bleed all that old stuff out. I have a motive products one and I try to flush fluid in every vechicle every 2-3 years

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JR · « **Reply #306 on:** July 02, 2021, 02:07:00 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 02, 2021, 11:51:49 AM

Get you a pressure bleeder and bleed all that old stuff out. I have a motive products one and I try to flush fluid in every vechicle every 2-3 years

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That was going through my head as I did this. Stuff is 15 years old and it had crap in it too. I heard do anti lock brakes is little tougher??

rpar86 · « **Reply #307 on:** July 02, 2021, 03:30:04 PM »

Quote from: JR on June 28, 2021, 12:57:44 PM

I cannot pin point, been trying. It is mechanical in the drivetrain for sure. Not a clunk but a definite rattle/clink when braking or turning left.

I thought the E brakes looked good, solid 1/8 all around. I have new pads and rotors, wondering if I should do the calipers too? No slop, no rust, pads about 1/2 warn, no signs of leakage on them or the regular seals.

Maybe I will do those bushing during the lift, you say they are a pain? This; https://youtu.be/hQRbda_PW1M

If you’re gonna have the t-bars disconnected to do the lift, might as well.

I used an airhammer/chisel to press the old ones out of the hangers, then a ball joint press to press the new ones in. One presses toward the front, the other toward the rear.

I didn’t buy the whole hanger/bushing that you would bolt thru the frame after grinding off the old rivets. That probably would have been easier, yes.

JR · « **Reply #308 on:** July 02, 2021, 03:52:24 PM »

I will look at em first, but being a kali truck I have little corrosion on this pup.

Hows the new truck? I hear now they have wifi reporting in them (since 2015) and they know when you mod the trucks.

JR · « **Reply #309 on:** July 02, 2021, 10:09:47 PM »

Still the same noise, has to be in front. CV and bearings feel OK but the side load must be it.

JR · « **Reply #310 on:** July 06, 2021, 02:21:36 PM »

So now with the rear done I redid the entire front end. New Timken hubs, CVs along with all the new brake stuff.

Fixed a couple little issues, like a cross threaded brake bracket I forgot about. Used a bolt from the backside, slotted it and cleaned the threads up.

The new Napa front CV do not like the angle I am running (at droop) and bind a little so I dropped the front end 1/2 in to let things mesh better. Plus with load on it I think I am fine. The keys are almost flush now, giving me 9.5in from tire to well.

Took for a spin and looks like the noise is gone finally, pretty sure it was a CV. Drivers was OEM so 218k, pass was reman, but back came off when I pulled it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #311 on:** July 07, 2021, 06:27:48 AM »

My style. Throw parts and money at it until the problem goes away

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stlaser · « **Reply #312 on:** July 07, 2021, 07:07:22 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 07, 2021, 06:27:48 AM

My style. Throw parts and money at it until the problem goes away

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More Texredneckism’s

“Sometimes you just have to be the guy who writes the check”

“Throw money & parts at it until your troubles go away”

Sounds good JR

Flyin6 · « **Reply #313 on:** July 07, 2021, 10:33:59 AM »

Quote from: stlaser on July 07, 2021, 07:07:22 AM

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 07, 2021, 06:27:48 AM
My style. Throw parts and money at it until the problem goes away

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More Texredneckism’s

“Sometimes you just have to be the guy who writes the check”

“Throw money & parts at it until your troubles go away”

Sounds good JR

Starting the "tex quote" thread

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #314 on:** July 07, 2021, 03:34:21 PM »

I have a ton….

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JR · « **Reply #315 on:** July 07, 2021, 04:06:53 PM »

Really about the only bearings not changed until now were the rear hubs, DUE.

I had all the other parts already to do the lift.

Yep, its just $$$.

JR · « **Reply #316 on:** July 16, 2021, 10:27:43 PM »

Thought my steering pump was going. Whining and loosing fluid. Traced it to the hydroboost, squirts out the bottom when brakes pressed. Least that is way easier than the pump!

Now, I hear the 2011 LML HB is much better than the one on my truck. Any feedback on this?

rpar86 · « **Reply #317 on:** July 16, 2021, 10:46:05 PM »

Do it. My brakes felt much better after, but I also put new calipers, pads and had the rotors turned.

JR · « **Reply #318 on:** July 16, 2021, 11:15:51 PM »

I just replaced all the brakes, less calipers. Probably do the MC also and flush.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #319 on:** July 18, 2021, 10:03:08 AM »

Quote from: JR on July 16, 2021, 11:15:51 PM

I just replaced all the brakes, less calipers. Probably do the MC also and flush.

Haven't heard that about the LML
But
With the 2011 LML came major upgrades everywhere
Transmission made much stronger
Engine changes for strength...heads (Were the rod bolts strengthened too?)
I can't recall everything, but the LML was meant to be a jumping off point for future upgrades in the never ending HP wars, so the engine was boosted modestly, but everything else was strengthened to make way for the eventual increases in torque production.
So
Makes sense that a brake/hydraulic system upgrade would have been in order.

JR · « **Reply #320 on:** July 26, 2021, 04:42:19 PM »

Seen a few youtube vids on it, have a new AC unit coming now.

This pan showed up today. Not a name brand but I'm sure its like most things and brand names are added to a product, or copied or what. Came very fast (Ordered in Hi to have delivered when home)

Anyway it was $220, then I got an offer for $201 and jumped on it. Seems to be good quality but had to get a gasket separately.

Also going the bigger oil filter route. Tired of sourcing the $$ amsoil units, which there is no Xref for. Cat filter and pan should add about 2 quarts, so more oil is cleaner oil and will stick with rotella as it has served me well.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #321 on:** July 27, 2021, 05:46:33 AM »

Just a suggestion JR. Might want to check the flange with a straight edge. Lower quality castings might not have a perfectly flat flange better to find out now rather than later. Curious for updates.

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JR · « **Reply #322 on:** July 27, 2021, 07:30:02 AM »

Not a bad idea. Want to find a Fumoto drain for it too, way bigger that stock dmax.

There is a machined area in the bottom of the pan, bet that was where a part number was for someone like PPE or such.

rpar86 · « **Reply #323 on:** July 27, 2021, 05:56:35 PM »

You don’t use a gasket. GM uses a type of RTV from the factory.

I would’ve just bought the dmax store one that comes with the bigger fumoto - like the one I just installed and never got to use because I sold the truck :’(

Nate · « **Reply #324 on:** July 27, 2021, 07:02:31 PM »

Call tater and get one of the.lube locker gaskets they sell. You will not be disappointed.

EL TATE · « **Reply #325 on:** July 28, 2021, 12:40:11 PM »

Quote from: Nate on July 27, 2021, 07:02:31 PM

Call tater and get one of the.lube locker gaskets they sell. You will not be disappointed.

WISH I had them for the trans pan. get calls all the time...

JR · « **Reply #326 on:** August 05, 2021, 05:37:12 PM »

So had a squeal and found I was low on PS fluid. Topped off but noticed it was wet under the master cylinder, hydroboost!! Drove it for the last week just topping it off.

Got a new GM unit from amazon for a 2011, read many times it is a good upgrade, bolt in.

Checked out a vid or 2 but fought the dang retaining clip on the pedal for hours yesterday, plus I just don't fit down there. Finally muscled it off this am, not all that but getting a new clip (it is the brakes!). All the vids show it just prys out but wow!

Flushing the system to, fluid is black (220K).

rpar86 · « **Reply #327 on:** August 05, 2021, 05:51:25 PM »

Size definitely plays a factor getting in under the dash to get that clip off. Wasn’t too bad for me with just a slotted screwdriver, but you have a few years on me ;). I think it was more difficult getting it back on.

Could you have had one of your boys help?

JR · « **Reply #328 on:** August 05, 2021, 07:39:15 PM »

I could twist it, get a screwdriver in there but no way could I get that tab to release without bending it. I straightened it out as new ones are 50 miles away.

Please don't say that about getting it on though. Youngest just gave up, even on getting the bolts off/on. Having a cordless ratchet was nice.

It's back on now, less the flush and the clip/switch.

JR · « **Reply #329 on:** August 06, 2021, 02:31:25 PM »

So the couple hour job took around 5-6 with breaks when I was frustrated or just hurt. I do not fit in there for this type of work. Even put a bench by the door I could lay on, no way!

So I took the front seat out, 4 bolts and a plug. I was able to lay on my back, use both hands and it got a good cleaning to (needed it)

It was harder getting the switch on the rod then on the brake arm rod than getting clip back on. It went on with a nice "click", so satisfied I bent back OK.

About 3 quarts to flush it out and it does feel better. Old HB was leaking inside to. Had the dash out so put a new headlight switch in I had from the "DIC" repair that has working lights. Now I have 1 light out in the bezel and several out in the HVAC control and all the steering wheel lights)

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #330 on:** August 06, 2021, 06:04:55 PM »

The Amazon steering wheel switches are spotty in quality. Before I sold mine I had replaced them all. Half failed in the first three or for months

By GM initial.

Good luck with your heater control. There is people on fb who will rebuild and relight them for you for a decent price

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JR · « **Reply #331 on:** August 06, 2021, 06:09:40 PM »

Yep thinking the same on dash DIY.

rpar86 · « **Reply #332 on:** August 06, 2021, 07:33:39 PM »

Or solder in LEDs like I did… tedious work.

JR · « **Reply #333 on:** August 07, 2021, 10:44:16 AM »

Dash bezel I can live with just one light out for now. Can't see half the HVAC controls and it looks funny to boot.

Oh, I tracked down clicking the noise my truck is making! The front end stuff didn't fix the issue and its driving me nuts. The driveshaft is rubbing on the titan fuel tan just a hair and the little balance weight on it is the clicking. I was under checking it out noticing the DS paint is rubbing off some right next to the tank. Only does it during hard braking (tank expands from fuel slosh) and left turns (tank slides over just a tad) The tank though held up is not secured from sliding side to side a little. I believe a bungee or even a tie down will solve the issue as the tank has a step in front that should keep the strap secure from sliding. Will know later today, I didn't see any damage to the tank but will check it out well.

Nate · « **Reply #334 on:** August 07, 2021, 11:03:54 AM »

funny you mentioned the tank JR, as i had issues with the one i out in the LBZ.

the morons who installed my titan tank on my LBZ slightly pinched the fuel line going to the engine.....which over a 2 year span caused my CP# failure.

JR · « **Reply #335 on:** August 07, 2021, 11:31:14 AM »

No lift pump, right?

Mine has a little leak around the filler sometimes, stock hose is just a little bigger than the titan inlet. Funny thing is a local "diesel place" wanted to drop the tank to fix the leak saying it was a problem when my truck was limping from fuel pressure. (lift pump was out, pressure relief was bad). I was like, how is fuel leaking from filling it causing a starvation issue?

JR · « **Reply #336 on:** August 12, 2021, 09:50:46 PM »

Finally put the new Setrab trans cooler on. Fits pretty much in stock mounts, hopefully it cools as advertised. Solid, does not need any upper attachment.

JIC fittings had a little corrosion on them and put new orings on. No leaks so far and the stack was clean as heck. Added a coat of paint and done.

JR · « **Reply #337 on:** August 15, 2021, 10:04:42 PM »

Was over 100 for most of the weekend with a trip to the Ridge. Pulling the trailer home (5k) it hit 200* once, but cooled right down to 180, normal. (it was 108* at the time)

I give it a

JR · « **Reply #338 on:** September 01, 2021, 12:01:12 AM »

Finally got the upper Krypto A arms that have been un-abtainium for quit some time. These have much better ball joints than the Cognito's, which seem to wear out every couple years. I got krypto ball joint for them, but will probably sell with the A arms I have now.

Just need to re-gear the front diff and I am set for the lift.

JR · « **Reply #339 on:** January 10, 2022, 07:10:34 PM »

So in the last couple days I flipped the tires over on the Dmax. They are very close to warn out and I have new 37s for it, but need the lift for them.

Front 2 were fine, but when turning they wear the outers way more than the inside with the castor. Heavy taller truck just adds to it.

Used the new changer that did fine, but I need practice for sure. Matched the weights up and so far so good.

Left rear is the new tire I got 2 summers ago, it is fine. However the right rear was down to maybe 1/16 so I grabbed a tire I kept for a spare with the last change (2015 date code). Well over 1/4 tread but don't know if its balanced good or not. Had some good cupping from before. Prob have them all checked now, its free anyway.

Did find out my right rear axle seal is leaking though. One more thing to add to the list with the lift,,,,,,,,,,,

I am carrying a full size spare now, one of the BFG H2 tires. Not perfect, but the right size.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #340 on:** January 10, 2022, 09:00:23 PM »

What’s the power source for the tire machine? Is it air driven?

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JR · « **Reply #341 on:** January 10, 2022, 09:30:38 PM »

Both air and electric. Just like all the knockoffs out there, seems to work well. Haven't tried the balancer yet.

Both bolted down on a pallet on the side of the house.

JR · « **Reply #342 on:** February 15, 2022, 10:40:29 PM »

Little update. Got a couple Ironman 35in tires for 2 that are getting down. Still debating on 35 vs 37. It just tows so good with the 35s but maybe the 37s will give me better mileage?

Step closer on the lift, found a 9.25 IFS front axle with 4.56 gears local yesterday. That was the next step anyway was rebuilding the front. Guy did an SAS, really clean with little slop. On FB for $500, marked down to $400, I paid $300. Now I have a bunch of parts to sell, 2 housings.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #343 on:** February 15, 2022, 10:56:57 PM »

What are you buying ifs stuff for? Thought that was a sixty going under the front ?

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stlaser · « **Reply #344 on:** February 15, 2022, 11:39:06 PM »

You selling kingpins? Shoot me a message if you are……

JR · « **Reply #345 on:** February 16, 2022, 07:59:22 PM »

Was doing a 60 way back. Time and $$$ was the enemy there. Back to the cognito 4-6 ntbd lift. Just need the exc out of here for the room.

Have everything ready, all new A arms (stock lower/kripto uppers), hubs, PPE tie-rods, King shocks, double cardon front shaft Deaver rear springs, air bags and will rotate the rear shock mounts so they don't hang down. Only down side is no traction device up front. ARB is out there, but not avail and over 1K. There is an option from Ryans Diesel service, but well over 2K with shipping/cores and lead times too. If someone made a hub disconnect for the DMaxs they would make a fortune!

Will put the Reunel rear bumper on so I can carry a full size spare. Plus its rated at 20k towing with no seperate hitch.

JR · « **Reply #346 on:** April 18, 2022, 03:30:08 PM »

Kids are out of school this week, so getting caught up and a bunch of boxes emptied!

She's up on jacks now. Doing the lift, pan and rear springs. Says 10 hours, I give it 2 days with the pan, get it aligned and do the rear springs.

JR · « **Reply #347 on:** April 19, 2022, 11:51:55 PM »

Going way slower than I hoped. Getting old is no fun plus not in the greatest shape right now.

Anyway I will not do a blow by blow as this has been done in many forums and videos. Will just do my highlights.

Got her up on stands and start the teardown. Got my use out of these tires for sure. Even turned them around as they were wearing on the outside way more. Took a few measurements, looked for parts (lots) and unloaded the T bars (first time it was ever an issue?) Really uneventful cept for the grease I found on both front calipers. I think the Napa CVs were overleaded and it got pushed out. Nothing on the pads so I am good there.

After unpacking the lift I had a funny feeling I was being watched. Yep, the supervisor was watching (our older cat has a nasty mouth decease and has turned into an outside cat now)

Just came in from day 2. Got a late start, verified a couple things and ran parts. Take old reliable 87 El Camino. Starts right up, fuel looks a little low and really dirty. Go through the wash on my way to get gas, car dies coming out of the wash, yep out of gas! Lucky just a couple blocks from home as AAA said an hour for a tow after 20 minutes on the site (who ever made the site should be strung up) and I still called for after that!

Thank GOD my youngest is home, he jumps on his E Scooter and is there in 5 with gas. Starts, I cancel AAA and go get bolts for the new alum pan, new steering stabilizer (rancho) and sway bar poly bushings.

JR · « **Reply #348 on:** April 19, 2022, 11:57:57 PM »

When I cut the crossmember I found a 10mm socket I had lost. Tomorrow I drop the diff. Install the alum pan and prep the newer (4.56) Diff.

Cleaned up the oil drain area a little on the pan, it has a nice lip on it.

Almost to nice to put this stuff under the truck.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #349 on:** April 20, 2022, 07:50:34 AM »

You’ll have it all dirty in no time jr

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