VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > Everything Trailer, Camper, or RV related

hooking up a pull trailer

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Bob Smith:
I know most of us have hooked up trailers for many years, but some people may not have ever pulled. I mostly tow pull trailers as I have a canopy on the pickup. I try to follow the same steps each time I hook up. If someone is there to help or talk about the weather I try to find something else for them to do as I want to be sure I do it right.
1. Make sure the tow rig and hitch will handle the trailers loaded weight and length and if it is a high load know how high before trying to go under a low bridge or gas station roof.
2. Be sure the ball on the hitch and the trailer coupler are the same size, and that the hitch and hitch pin are in good shape and installed properly
3. If needed either adjust the ball height or trailer coupler (if equipped) or use a drop hitch bar so the trailer sits level or slightly nose down when hooked up to the tow rig and ready to roll.
4. Check to see that the safety chains are hooked up and crossed, so if the coupler jumps off the ball the chains will catch it before it digs into the asphalt.
5. Plug in the lights, check them to be sure they all work
6. If equipped with trailer brakes make sure they are working and the controller is set up right. Hook up the emergency brake cable and check the length so it will pull out before the safety chains get tight and not be so tight it pulls out in a turn.
7. Check the tires for proper air pressure and for cuts, cracks, or bulges in the tread or sidewalls.
8. Make sure the load is secure and nothing will drop off of or blow out of the trailer . Oh and the load rating of the trailer is important so don't overload it.
9. Get in the tow rig, adjust the mirrors, and have a safe trip. If the tires are "ST  trailer use only" the speed rating is 65MPH and safe life span is only around 6 years at best. There is a date code to let you know when the tire was born.
10. If the trailer wants to sway pull over and find out why. Most often there is not enough tongue weight so the load needs to be shifted forward or heavy items placed in front of the axle instead of behind it.
11. At each stop walk around and check the tires, heat build up at the spindles (other than just normal brake use), load still tied down and hasn't shifted, hitch in good shape.

EL TATE:
Why should the tongue be slightly nose down; is it a safety thing? I do tow, and my angle is slightly nose down, I'm just wondering why we do it.

Bob Smith:
My understanding only, level is of course best, but better to be slightly nose down than nose high. My experience here is from the travel trailer and tandem axle dump trailer. For some reason my boat trailers don't care. Better control of the trailer, I think because of the weight being more forward and not to the rear. The travel trailer isn't catching as much wind in the front either if slightly lower.
 

Bob Smith:
 Determining ball height. With the trailer on a smooth surface, parking lot, road in front of house, drive way, etc. Set the trailer up so the distance to the ground at the front of the trailer frame is the same as the rear frame, or other spot like a seam or top of utility trailer. Then measure to the inside top of the ball coupler. Using this method the smooth area doesn't need to be level. The ball on the tow rig is then set about an inch or so higher depending on tongue weight of the trailer, springs of the tow rig, and if you use a weight distribution hitch or not.

cudakidd53:
ALWAYS CHECK THE HITCH PIN!  I pulled my trailer to storage this weekend without one somehow!  Weight of the trailer, slight twist one way or another- who knows, but luckily I went slowly and God smiled upon me during the two mile trip!

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