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Messages - Bear9350
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751
« on: August 11, 2016, 01:12:10 PM »
I am just finishing up my shower project. It was the first time I had ever tiled anything. I still need to put the last few tiles in and grout everything. If you are just doing the floor I think it would be pretty straightforward. My biggest issues stemmed from the tile we picked out. They weren't all the same size, thickness an weren't perfectly square. This made it impossible to use the spacers so I just ended up drawing a grid on the walls. For this reason I ended up buttering all the tiles instead of putting the thinset directly on the wall. But this also made it easier because it wasn't supposed to look perfect.
752
« on: August 10, 2016, 01:16:19 PM »
Yeah, I didn't read it as a threat to any individual person but as a warning that the 2nd Amendment people would not stand idly-by.
753
« on: August 03, 2016, 05:34:02 PM »
Idk, considering the amount of carnage he has done I am sure more than a few branches and other things have scraped down the side of the loader arms/ hood/ fenders and after a little clean-up it seems to be in pretty good shape. This based off the pic he posted up last week of it cleaned up.
Honestly I really don't know how the paint systems match up at the factories Don's equipment was built at. I just know here in Horicon it is very good.
The paint isn't doing all that poorly. I am not bashful about rubbing against some offending tree! I view scratches more like a Scar.
But the paint on the hood of the thing is fading. And it's a 2013 so I'd have to give that a fail. By comparison the paint on the hood of my Silverado, a 2011, which I have never waxed until this summer is shiny. Well it was shiny before the buffer...
I'm by no means a paint engineer and don't know much then there basic. There are always trade-offs tjough. With powder paint the harder paints are less UV resistant and hence fade faster. UV resistant paint is softer and will scratch easier.
754
« on: August 03, 2016, 10:12:22 AM »
Idk, considering the amount of carnage he has done I am sure more than a few branches and other things have scraped down the side of the loader arms/ hood/ fenders and after a little clean-up it seems to be in pretty good shape. This based off the pic he posted up last week of it cleaned up.
Honestly I really don't know how the paint systems match up at the factories Don's equipment was built at. I just know here in Horicon it is very good.
755
« on: August 03, 2016, 09:51:41 AM »
I personally do not. There is a local guy here I occasionally will take a bumper to get powder coated. I generally do not recommend because it shows all the scratches, grinding marks through it. I even need to grind down the areas that I welded on the back side else you will be able to see the heat affected area after powder coating. Not that I don't do a good job finishing the bumpers but I don't want to spend the extra time to do the polishing that is required for powder coat.
I work at John Deere for the factory that makes the Select Series mowers and all the Gator products. Specifically I work on the mower deck design. The powder coat system we have here at the John Deere Horicon location is one of the best.
756
« on: August 03, 2016, 07:43:18 AM »
As with all other paint, prep work is still key. Here at work the raw steel is dipped into several tanks to clean and a final tank to put a special priming coat on it. Then they head of to get power coated and baked. You would need to press hard enough to gauge metal to scratch it. Our paint line is very good though. Any outside supplier we use have a very hard time just getting close to the same quality.
Not sure what the paint quality you have it but if you media blasted the lugs and were careful not to touch/ get any other oils on them afterwards I think it should withstand some wrench time. I would just use the properly sized 6 point socket. As long as the paint build-up isn't to thick and the socket slides on without scratching I think you would be in the clear. Obviously no impact. Smooth steady pressure to remove/ torque.
757
« on: July 27, 2016, 01:10:27 PM »
My wife put one of these together a couple weekends ago while I was gone for the day. She just used a cheap Styrofoam cooler instead of a bucket.
758
« on: July 27, 2016, 09:03:33 AM »
Woke up this morning and saw it was just under 90* in my apartment. Guess it's time to turn the AC on.
Can't you open a window? It got down to the low 60s last night.
759
« on: July 25, 2016, 01:33:50 PM »
I've done the extension cord from the dryer while renting a house. It is also possible to take two 120 circuits and make 240. We have done it on the farm before. I forget how exactly you need to do it though. Probably isn't to code. Definitely do not just pull a 15 or 20 amp and replace it with a 30.
1/4" plate should be plenty thick for what you are doing. No need to go any heavier in my opinion. You can get a lot more strength by adding an appropriately placed gusset or support then just making it out of thicker steel.
The welder should also be fine. Just make sure you take your time and get good penetration on your welds. Make 2 or three passes where needed.
760
« on: July 25, 2016, 01:19:04 PM »
I've intended to document a bumper build for you guys here but haven't had time to do so. I thought I would start with the 3D modeling and throw in some design factors and other things a lot of people may not generally consider. Been to busy finishing up projects on the house to build any bumpers lately even though I think I have the steel for 4 fronts and a rear sitting on the bench right now though. I've shipped out fully welded bumpers, the afore mentioned weld kits and for those people I deem trustworthy and have access to a fab shop I have emailed them the .dxf files to take directly to a cnc plasma or laser table to have cut out. This is not my full time gig. I just do this as a side job/ hobby. I've always enjoyed fab work and it helps me to better afford my expensive hobbies(trucks and guns). You can check out my website/ some examples of work on my website. www.bearclawbumpers.com
761
« on: July 25, 2016, 07:59:39 AM »
Biggest ticket item would be a welder. You wouldn't need anything to large but I wouldn't opt for the cheapest one you can find either. Other than that you would probably only really need a grinder. You can get some cut-off wheels for it and use it to cut steel as well as use the normal grinding wheels for grinding. I'm assuming you already have a drill to punch any mounting holes etc.. you might need.
Bending the tubing would be the difficult part. Cheapest option would be cutting a couple angles instead of a nice sweeping radius. You could use the cut off wheel on the grinder to make slices in the back of the tube and bend the front around and weld closed. Or you might be able to find a shop locally that would be willing to bend them up for you.
762
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:25:41 AM »
It seems like most of your equipment is diesel so having a gasoline tank may not be as beneficial but I believe it is possible to get tax exempt gasoline similar to off-road diesel. At least I thought we did on the farm.
763
« on: July 19, 2016, 07:54:20 AM »
I usually wait atleast 48 hours before I do anything with them. Wait for as long as you can as it will get harder the longer it dries.
As for the rockers I would do them if you just want to clean them up and make them look a little nicer. I wouldn't count on it prolonging there life much. Around here in WI anyway rockers generally rot from the inside out.
764
« on: July 18, 2016, 08:24:01 AM »
I've sprayed it in a relatively small garage before in winter with little air flow. Probably not one of my brightest decisions but I didn't think the fumes were to bad. If you can open a door and get a little air exchange you should be fine.
765
« on: July 17, 2016, 09:40:54 PM »
I use laquer thinner.
766
« on: July 15, 2016, 08:04:31 AM »
You guys are going into tow/haul mod when pushing it, right? That alone tightens up the shifts and raises pressures. Us guys with the older (06) trannys need the trangojr be the same as you later model guys.
Originally everybody thought that it was good to use tow/haul when pushing it. Now the big tranny builders agree that it isn't good. Don't really remember what the exact explanation was for it but it had something to do with the line pressure.
767
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:54:54 AM »
was he driving your duramax bear?
No, he wouldn't do something like that unless it was his own. He has an 09 Dodge I think with PPEI tuning. I'm his go to guy for truck questions so I knew it wasn't good when I got a phone call at 7:30 in the morning. Usually he just texts me various questions.
768
« on: July 14, 2016, 08:05:50 AM »
Where did the like button go on this app.
I haven't done anything to her but efi. She has handled well for 50+ thousand miles
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I put many hard miles on my 03 on the hot tune. After it finally limped the tranny a couple times I decided a built tranny really wasn't in the budget. I also had done a few other things to it too, (batmo wheel and boost valve) but for the most part is was just efi. My uncle just went to retrieve my cousin a couple weeks ago after he toasted his tranny. It was about a 6-7 hour drive one way. From what I understand he switched it to his hot tune and tried to do a 40 psi boosted launch in 4lo. Not really sure what he was thinking.
769
« on: July 13, 2016, 04:19:08 PM »
Oh come on fellas. Getting it out of limp mode was accomplished before I even came to a complete stop. Edge cts can clear codes. It's the sour trans that is my issue now. Need to build it up for more HP
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Sorry, I misunderstood your original statement. I thought it sounded like the truck was down and you were looking at a bill to get it back on the road. Big difference between that and wanting to handle more power.
770
« on: July 13, 2016, 01:02:00 PM »
I limped my trans in my truck and now trying to figure out how to pay that bill on top of the others that hit the load this month
Raising boys into RealMen!!
we're just going to gloss over this post and talk about guns some more;-) you should be able to get yourself out of limp mode. what year is the truck again?
As long as it is just in limp you should be able to cycle the key a few times to reset. Had to do it several times in my 03. There was one time it didn't want to reset so I plugged my v2 in to clear the codes.
771
« on: July 08, 2016, 07:45:21 AM »
After some more troubleshooting last night I believe it to be a problem with the pressure switch itself. I think the contacts got stuck in the on position. Thinking back I do remember thinking that the compressor was running for longer than normal just to get back up to pressure with virtually no use.
772
« on: July 07, 2016, 01:58:35 PM »
Doing a little reading it appears it could either be the unloader valve or the check valve causing my problems. It does appear as if the cheap plastic piece on the pressure switch can be replaced if that is the problem.
773
« on: July 07, 2016, 08:28:19 AM »
Over the weekend the air compressor kicked in and started running. About the time I expected it to shut off I heard a leak. Turned it off and finally had a chance to look at it last night. The metal tube going to the pressure switch is leaking around the plastic retainer. You can see the condensation on it in this pick from where the air was leaking last night.  The tube exits the bottom of the pressure switch and then runs over to the compressor.   The compressor wouldn't run unless I bypassed the pressure switch. Anybody know an easy way for me to fix this. Also what is the correct term for this line? I was hoping I would just be able to run an airline of some sort instead but I'm not sure what I would need on the pressure switch side for fittings. I haven't had the time to look into it too closely yet. A lot of other things taking priority but would like to have it up and running in case I need it.
774
« on: July 06, 2016, 01:41:27 PM »
I don't think "cabin" is appropriate for what you described. When I remodeled I did nearly everything with the help of family and friends. I did hire out for HVAC, plumbing and insulation and mudding the drywall. I didn't do any foundation work but did put some new trusses up. If I really wanted I think I could have done the plumbing myself also. If I was doing it again I would have paid to have the drywall hung. Instead of taking 3 weeks it would have got done in 2 days tops.
Not sure what you are thinking for a floor plan but we went through a couple different designers before finding one that was really getting what we wanted. Of course we were able to steal some ideas from those we didn't like and modified some as we went.
Not sure what you mean by using native wood. I know you mentioned wanting a saw mill before. You planning on milling your own lumber?
I would look into putting in a second well. A 1/4 mile would be a long ways to push water, especially if you are relying on off grid power. Depending on the depth they need to drill it doesn't have to be to expensive. Call up a company and ask how far they normally have to drill in your area.
775
« on: June 29, 2016, 10:01:36 AM »
Looks good! I hope your land lord works with you on your rent for all you are doing. If you get bored up there you can come work on my yard down here where it has been hot lately!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hopefully next year, or whenever your terms are up they don't decide that since it looks nicer they should up the rent.
776
« on: June 24, 2016, 07:45:27 AM »
SS and composite, nice combo all around.
Guess I should build my AR since I got the last parts now.
It isn't a true Stainless barrel. Just some type of stainless coating. I wasn't aware of that when I bought mine. My dad recently picked up the same package in 22-250 this last spring. He was told it was told this so I followed up with Savage and it is only some type of stainless coating.
777
« on: June 23, 2016, 10:09:04 AM »
So what you're saying is in that shop of yours you don't own an oxy acetylene torch with a rosebud? If this is true then you need to invest as you now own heavy equipment & use a bigger hammer you sissy...... ;D
I'm not sure about this whole mower mod. I agree we need video......
Rosebud: Check
I'm not sure about this mod either!
Just willing to gamble a perfectly MX-6 to find out! ;-))
For more detailed fab work like building bumpers or maybe light modifications like you are doing here the plasma torch and mig welder are great. But for heavy duty repairs on machinery a oxy acetylene torch and stick welder will be your best friend. You can heat things up to bend/ pound them back into shape and cut/ weld without needing to get parts real clean.
778
« on: June 23, 2016, 10:02:24 AM »
You just learned me something!
I was wondering why the cutting angle was steeper than a knife, and why they come new without much (if any) of an edge.
Now on the flip side, we sharpen our axes before going to work on a shaggy bark hickory, so if the sharper blade cuts OK, I know it would be better on the saplings...
Or
That's my story, and I'm sticking with it!
I'm sure a sharp blade would help with the saplings as long as you don't mow any rocks etc.. prior to getting to said saplings.
779
« on: June 23, 2016, 09:47:06 AM »
I purchased the same package about 4 years ago. Have put a lot or rounds through it and have shoot several raccoons from across the cornfield with it.
I wasn't real happy with the clearness of the scope. I belief that scope it the Buckmaster 2, Nikon's cheapest scope option. I swapped it out for a Nikon Prostaff last year and am much happier with how clear the glass is now. Managed to sell the original scope at work for $125 I think so I only had about $50 into the Prostaff.
780
« on: June 23, 2016, 08:07:54 AM »
It looks like you put quite the edge on that blade. Generally you don't want to sharpen mower blades to sharp. You want to keep some base material there to make it more difficult for the blade to get large dents and chips on the cutting edge. Your really not cutting grass as much as tearing it off. Even with a really sharp blade on your lawn mower if you look at it the end of the grass spear is ragged. Obviously you don't want the entire cutting edge of the blade rounded over. There should be some point to it but it shouldn't be razor sharp either.
781
« on: June 22, 2016, 08:19:42 AM »
Perhaps you have voided the warranty? :)
Just don't mow over that chainsaw again with it pointed at your truck...
The tip speed of those blades are relatively low compared to your standard lawn mower but I would still pay attention to which direction you are pointing when mowing.
782
« on: June 15, 2016, 11:14:24 AM »
Good info Bear. I had not considered clear, but may now just for cleaning purposes.
So having heard what you used, I'm hopeful that I'll have enough to do both with the one kit.
No tubes, just a lot of surface area.
My supplier gave me the kit for 166, which was far better than anywhere else I found it. Stupid weak dollar, and price gouging on the most part. I'd seen them over 300 at some places, and was like NO!
You will be fine with 1 kit for front and rear. There is almost as much surface material on that tubing as there is on the actual bumper and there is a lot of waste. I would advice you to prime the back really well, making sure you get into all the nooks and pockets you might have from any framing members/ gussets. That way you don't need to waste a bunch of the liner product trying to cover those areas. Using all 4 bottles I basically have 3-1/2 coats on all of the bumper including the tubing.
783
« on: June 15, 2016, 09:27:24 AM »
Also, I like to spray a clear over the liner. The clear adds a bit of a gloss to it. Just the raptor is a flatter color but adding the clear seems to bring the gloss closer to the vehicles level. Also I think it helps with cleaning. The bare liner traps a lot of dirt in it. The dirt seems to release from the clear better. You can just spray the liner down to clean instead of getting a brush out in a lot of cases I think.
784
« on: June 15, 2016, 09:05:59 AM »
I just did a front bumper last night. Sand blasted it, primed it and sprayed it ended up using all 4 bottles on just the front bumper. I probably could have got by with just 3 but I figured I might as well put another coat on the bumper. This bumper was a front with brush guard so it does take an extra bottle or so to cover the brush guard good. There is more surface area there than one would think on all that tubing and there is also a lot of over spray/ waste.
I generally purchase my kits through amazon with prime to get free shipping. $120-$130 per kit depending on if it is tintable/ black and if you need a gun or not.
785
« on: June 14, 2016, 08:20:13 AM »
Well, my JD tractor buyer crapped out on me. I paid the repair bill on the thing today and afterward talked once more about a trade. It would be flat out stupid to trade, so without a solid sale, I'm proceeding with a few days of major maintenance on the green machine.
I have already pressure washed the thing, removed a lot of stickage, rocks, started straightening lines and what is now a list of 26 items. I figure If I jump on it hard, in 3-4 days tops, I can have it fully repaired, armored up with a lot more steel to protect against sticks tearing it up, and I plan to modify the bushhog by opening the rear end up so that a little bit of the spinning blades are exposed. I plan to reshape the aft end so that I can slowly back into trees of a small diameter and hack the dog snot out of them like with a tree saw. I checked, and I have a 150HP gearbox on the hog, so I should be able to tackle things with great success.
I'm adding LED lighting, as in a lot of them, a weapon carrier, tool box carrier, a steel-over on the grill, change all fluids, and a total service.
I'm thinking its doing things like this that keeps causing the breakdowns of your machine. Just saying, if you keep pushing the unit beyond its design limits your going to keep finding the weak links. Maybe the gear box holds up but in my experience the gear boxes aren't the weak links.
786
« on: June 09, 2016, 07:54:34 AM »
I looked into them a couple years ago. There are a few out there similar to JD but a little cheaper priced and cheaper built. None of the models I found could get a tight enough radius for what I needed though. Like you eluded to though, you will spend just as much if not more on dies than the initial cost of the bender.
I had also found some people who built there own bender and purchased dies for it. I never looked into that option much. Currently I just send a print out and have somebody else bent them. It's not to horribly expensive and I can have them cope the ends perfectly for me so I don't have to screw around with getting a perfect fit.
787
« on: June 08, 2016, 08:58:11 AM »
I think a skid steer would be a very useful piece of equipment for you. They are built for more of what you are using it for and would hold up much better. There are all kinds of attachments out there too. Different styles of buckets, post hole diggers, pallet forks, hoes etc.. and swapping them out is extremely easy. Either a couple minutes to release the levers or a couple seconds with a push of a button. Track might be a good option but so would solid rubber tires. The solid rubber tires are a little harder than aired tires but not bad and you don't have to worry about puncturing a tire with a stick etc at a fraction of the cost compared to a tracked unit.
I would look for an Ag style (New Holland, Deere, Gehl etc.) over a Bobcat. I think the Bobcats are geared more for wheel speed and in my experience don't have the hydraulic lift power the other brands do.
I think you could move up to a larger HP CUT (Compact Utility Tractor) but that is just going to give you more power to tear the tractor apart doing things it really isn't designed to do. Get your self a skidsteer for the majority of your projects and then maybe look into a used 2wd older small AG tractor with a flail mower to keep the area mowed and pull any tillage equipment you might need. Get something older without all the electronics that have a quarter as much to go wrong and easier to work on if it does.
788
« on: June 08, 2016, 07:39:41 AM »
Between a front and rear bumper you are not going to have much if any left. I've sprayed raptor liner on a couple of the bumpers I have built and plan for two courts for a front bumper minimum. Usually I am doing front and rear together so the front gets a little more than 2 quarts and the rear gets a little less than 2.
789
« on: May 24, 2016, 11:46:15 AM »
I'd say Glock or M&P. Not due to some fanboy obsession, but as an observation as to parts availability in the sporting goods stores in this area. Parts and accessories are easier to find up in this area for both.
You having a boy or girl or keeping it as a surprise on the day?
I'm thinking G43 but we will see what she likes. I know the Glocks have always felt better in my hand. She wanted to keep it a surprise so we will be finding out on the day.
790
« on: May 24, 2016, 11:17:29 AM »
Wow, thank goodness she had a gun or who knows how that would've ended. Glad everything worked out well.
The scary part to me is that he came back. As has been stated on here many times most criminals are cowards. But after already having a gun pointed in his face he still had the nerve to come back to the house in search of his phone. What else would he be willing to do to get it back. And of course to top it all off my wife is 7 months pregnant.
791
« on: May 24, 2016, 11:13:02 AM »
Glad that worked out. Hard to prove but burglary here is simply "entering" with the intent to steal. Sound like he never entered (good).
Looking for firewood at 630 with a minivan, right,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Buy her something nice, like her own shotgun!
Probably be a pistol. She has been wanting her own for a while. All of mine are double stack and she has smaller hands so I don't think they fit her very well.
792
« on: May 24, 2016, 10:31:26 AM »
I've had an interesting morning already.
Was into work for about 30 minutes this morning when I get a call from the wife. That is not normal. She will send me a text but normally doesn't call in the morning unless it is something big. She tells me she thinks somebody just tried to rob us. At 6:45 somebody pulled up in a beat up mini van. That is kind of early for visitors. Young man gets out. He doesn't look like the most honest of characters. Starts knocking on the door. My wife goes into the office where she can see out the window without really being seen. The dog is barking and making all kinds of noise. After knocking for a while with the dog directly on the other side of the door looking at him through the full oval window in it he turns the knob and opens the door enough for the dog to stick her head out. At this point my wife has grabbed a shot gun out of the gun safe I also keep in the office. It's 12 ga pump. I guess she racked one in while rounding the corner. We have a vey open layout so my wife was about 30 ft away while he was staring down the barrel of the shotgun when my wife told him to close the door and get off the property. He didn't move so she repeated herself. He made some story up about looking for firewood. She told him again to close the door and get off the property now. At his point he quickly closed the door and left.
My wife then called dispatch and told them what happened. She then called me. I told her I would head home and make sure everything was alright. It is about a 10 minute drive for me to get home from work. When I crested the hill and the house came in sight I could see 2 sheriff's vehicles on the road and one pulled into the drive. As I got closer I could see what appeared to be the mini-van my wife described also in the drive.
After calling me my wife saw that he had dropped his cell phone in the driveway. She called the sheriff back and told them. As she was on with dispatch she saw the minivan coming back down the road and pull in the drive. Before he was politely knocking on the door, this time he was banging on it hard she said. That is when all the deputies showed up.
It sounds like they will be charging him with trespassing with attempt for unlawful entry or something like that. It sounds like somebody else in the area had also called and reported him that morning. The officer said he could tell he was a drug user and could see where he was shooting up recently in his arm.
I'm guessing my wife is going to want to go gun shopping tonight.
793
« on: May 23, 2016, 02:48:24 PM »
if you both were by and or in menomonie you guys were roughly 20 miles from where I grew up. my recruiter was stationed there and that is where I met my first wife when she was going to college there at UW Stout.
Menominee, MI on the WI/ UP MI border. A few hours north of Menominee, WI. The Peshtigo and Menominee both empty into Lake Michigan and offer some of the best white water in the Midwest.
794
« on: May 23, 2016, 10:57:07 AM »
Bobby, what river did you run?
Menominee and Peshtigo. Up around by Middle Inlet and Niagara.
Cool. Both have some spots with good rapids. For my bachelor party we did paintball and rafted the Menominee. Did you guys do Piers Gorge on the Menominee? That is the stretch we ran. It was a heck of a lot of fun.
795
« on: May 23, 2016, 08:53:36 AM »
Went white water rafting and paintballing this weekend with the Veterans' charity I support. The group rafting went fine, the individual one, I got tossed out of mine.
Bobby, what river did you run?
796
« on: May 17, 2016, 08:01:28 AM »
Dang Bear, thought your were close for a minute. Lodi Ca is just south of me, Lodi Wi is a tad farther east.
Just a mountain range and a couple thousand miles of cornfield between us. I'm actually just about an hour south of Bobby I think.
797
« on: April 28, 2016, 07:53:32 AM »
I think in there video they are also supposed to challenge one of there friends to post a video of them doing 22 push ups also.
798
« on: April 11, 2016, 08:39:00 AM »
It has still been getting below freezing around here at night so the ground has been hard in the morning. Took advantage of it and dropped a couple dead trees around the yard. We have a few box elders I have been working on cleaning up the last couple of years. I didn't measure the big one but I have an 18" bar on the saw and my cuts didn't overlap by much, probably close to 30" across. Dropped a couple of them then started working on cleanup till the ground got soft and the sun on the plowed field started turning everything to mud around 10. Called it quits on that for the day and worked on getting trim cut, painted and installed the rest of the day.
Sunday morning I got out for a couple hours before church, hooked and dragged the rest of the trees out to where I will cut them up for firewood later and finished cleaning up. After church I continued working on the trim. Should finish the door trim tonight and be able to start on the base boards tomorrow.
799
« on: April 11, 2016, 08:25:02 AM »
Why not just laminate another piece onto them for the thickness you want? Or a piece on each side for the same. Weld that to the bumper face and that solve the possible folding issue.
I was going to suggest the same. Clean all the paint off there good and grind some bevels on each piece before welding. I don't think you would need to worry about them tearing at all and I don't think they would bend much unless they were given a good jerk.
800
« on: April 05, 2016, 07:45:31 AM »
Horizontal, was seriously looking at vertical but I'm cheap & we don't need that large of a freezer. So I bought a $269 (on sale) small unit. Link below......
http://www.sears.com/kenmore-8.8-cu-ft-chest-freezer-black/p-04612909000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
We bought a vertical a few years back. Always grew up with a horizontal one but thought a vertical one would be nice. It might be a little easier to use but I don't think we can utilize as much of the space effectively in the vertical vs. horizontal. Also every time you open the door you get an air exchange and the damp air from the basement enters the freezer causing it to frost up a lot faster. With the horizontal this doesn't happen as much as the cold air wants to stay down and won't rise up out of the freezer. If I was doing it again I would go horizontal.
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