Author Topic: Gehl Skid Steer AKA; "DUG" (Read 49414 times)

stlaser · « **Reply #150 on:** April 10, 2020, 07:44:04 AM »

So you just need risers for the seat? Sounds simple and unless the oem seat belt is cheap a simple race waist belt should work and be cheap.

JR · « **Reply #151 on:** April 10, 2020, 01:58:43 PM »

I have a belt but the seat needs a higher back and something to hold me better in the seat.

I have this, just 14" for the back rest.

Looking at this which is 3-4" taller and has some side support.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #152 on:** April 10, 2020, 07:35:08 PM »

Or this

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #153 on:** April 10, 2020, 07:48:03 PM »

Only you Charles,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #154 on:** April 10, 2020, 08:16:10 PM »

Yeah. But you could nap there too

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #155 on:** April 10, 2020, 10:07:12 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on April 10, 2020, 08:16:10 PM

Yeah. But you could nap there too

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do that anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

JR · « **Reply #156 on:** April 21, 2020, 04:24:48 PM »

Still haven't got the joystick aux working. Looks like I may just drag it home for a few days. I have some work for it here and can address a few little things too. New seat, switch, hook up rear LEDs and it needs a cup holder desperately.

Also looking at OTT tracks. It has great traction, but digs in way to much and I almost went over this last week on a soft berm and much of the area I am working now is a wash area and very soft. Plus with snow and rain they would be great.

2 options I am looking at are the Eel River Tracks, about $1500 with shipping and tax. https://youtu.be/HG4msYxMJdQ

Or these that uses AR400 link and are about the same price; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skid-Steer-Loader-Over-Tire-Steel-Tracks-OTT-12x16-5-Tires-Standard-Link/303163987035

Most others seem to be in the $3000 range even used with shipping.

JR · « **Reply #157 on:** May 05, 2020, 02:05:57 AM »

Drug Dug home this weekend with the claw. Will add the high back seat and get the front hydro working.

Was a long haul home. After the DMax tire issue it was almost 10 when I started loading. Really wasn't bad, but it caught a pad and kept sliding off center. Ended up loaded about 1ft to far forward because of the claw, so I cranked up the pressure to max. Dmax was sitting about 2in lower in the back than normal. You could feel it pushing a little, but not enough to cause a problem. Got 14mpg on the way home. Not great but with the hills and sail back there is was OK.

When it was loaded I dropped the key and it went into the frame. Couldn't find the spare so figured to hot wire and get another key when I get home. Hot wired easy, then found the key under a tire. Guess those holes I drilled paid off but there is a lot of crud down there already!.

Also added some new tie down loops before I left. Just 5/8 eyes with long nuts welded to the frame. Also added some angle to the tire mount so it rides on the sidewall better.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #158 on:** May 05, 2020, 07:30:11 AM »

Sound like a long day

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #159 on:** May 05, 2020, 02:11:40 PM »

Sounds like many of yours, I just got less done I wanted.

JR · « **Reply #160 on:** May 10, 2020, 03:07:35 PM »

Got her washed off and fixed a loose ground and moved the oil dipstick from behind the air intake.

Figured out the front hydro I think, will know later today.

JR · « **Reply #161 on:** May 13, 2020, 05:39:55 PM »

So back on this a little yesterday and even after adding the rocker on the handle, front hydro is a no go.

I will do a little more research but I don't see the need for the setup they have. Basically a servo pulls/pushes the hydro valve. This goes through about 15ft of wire and a little control box and plugs. Doesn't seem to adjust anything, but lights up nice when I pull/plug the fuse.

JR · « **Reply #162 on:** May 13, 2020, 05:50:52 PM »

Here is the inside and ALL that wiring is for the front hydro. I know the valve works as it opened when I used the panel rocker. Repairing the stock system seems futel as it probably involves parts and a labor if I find the problem.

So basically it has 2 rockers, one on the panel for cont. flow and a momentary on the handle for use with claws and such.

I am thinking I could replace their over thought system with a solenoid setup. The valve needs to travel about 1/2in in/out to work. No real partial flow needed. It already has an arm on it for their solenoid and a solid mount pretty close.

So if I can find a HD double throw solenoid that has about 1in travel and returns to center I think that would work.

Either that or replace the Hydro valve with one that has flow solenoids.

What do you guys think, options?

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #163 on:** May 13, 2020, 06:05:54 PM »

I’d probably spend some more time with a multi meter and see if you can find the schematics to isolate the issue. It was probably engineered that way for a reason and your caveman simple approach may have unforeseen consequences. JMHO

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #164 on:** May 13, 2020, 06:29:24 PM »

I have the schematics and have been working on it but it does not show the front hydro setup. There are 8 wires going to the solenoid.

I have followed programing for the mixer, but it does nothing. If the solenoid or mixer is bad, just their cost is nuts.

Being 22 years old it is hard to find info on it.

JR · « **Reply #165 on:** May 13, 2020, 08:19:17 PM »

Here is a pic of just the valve, its the first one.

Would seem I could run it with a cable and springs to return to center. Would get me by anyway.

Nate · « **Reply #166 on:** May 13, 2020, 08:44:40 PM »

I may have missed it.....but why not just take it to somebody who is certified to work on it and have it fixed right the first time and be reliable than spending all of your valuable time trying to bypass stuff?

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #167 on:** May 13, 2020, 08:48:14 PM »

I fall into nates mind set often enough. Let experts do expert crap

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

stlaser · « **Reply #168 on:** May 13, 2020, 10:22:00 PM »

Agreed with last two comments. As Tex would say sometimes you just need to be the guy who writes the check.

JR · « **Reply #169 on:** May 13, 2020, 10:42:03 PM »

Quote from: Nate on May 13, 2020, 08:44:40 PM

I may have missed it.....but why not just take it to somebody who is certified to work on it and have it fixed right the first time and be reliable than spending all of your valuable time trying to bypass stuff?

$$$$$

JR · « **Reply #170 on:** May 13, 2020, 10:51:43 PM »

I would love to have it work correct, will do some more research on that.

Now a little more digging and I pulled the servo motor off. The valve only moves about 1/2 each way, end of arm about 1in. It is spring loaded pretty well and returns to center easily.

Without hacking things up until I figure this out it could be as simple as a rod run forward to the cab area. It would come out right about where the throttle is and right joy stick. Connect a small handle to it or pivot. This may work so I can get it back on the job.

The more I read about these the better I would have liked T handle controls. The foot controls can be a pain getting in/out. I can live with it though now. May look for some used parts for that later.

JR · « **Reply #171 on:** May 14, 2020, 09:55:00 PM »

So I hooked the claws back on and the hydro works fine by hand. The stock elec would be great, but not a must.

Another option is adding a linear solenoid to use the switches on the tractor as they are. (looking at solenoids now)

Other option is just a rod that would come out near the right hand lever down by the throttle. (Easiest)

If I used a cable, I could run it up the control handle near the grip.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #172 on:** May 15, 2020, 09:24:55 AM »

Attach it to a twist throttle on a motorcycle. Twist you wrist and let go for open?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #173 on:** May 15, 2020, 01:04:56 PM »

Thats an idea, need a center though.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #174 on:** May 15, 2020, 01:58:19 PM »

Twist throttle would have a return to center. But maybe all of that is off of the carb

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #175 on:** May 16, 2020, 12:46:01 AM »

Kinda like that idea, but need 2 inches travel. Is there a setup that runs in the bar?

Maybe an atv throttle?

JR · « **Reply #176 on:** May 18, 2020, 11:22:06 PM »

So here is a search for all you guys. Looking for a 12v solenoid, push/pull with a 1in stroke. Probably needs about 20lb force, but I will measure.

I am having no luck, but it has to be out there.

dave945 · « **Reply #177 on:** May 19, 2020, 08:58:47 PM »

Is this what you are looking for?

https://www.e-motioninc.com/Push_Pull_Solenoid_12VDC_1_Travel_p/pps-1-10-12v.htm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #178 on:** May 19, 2020, 10:36:56 PM »

The very same I found. But even though it is push/pull, it only does 1 way, so I would need 2.

Not that it is out of the realm, but would like to do it with 1.

JR · « **Reply #179 on:** May 20, 2020, 10:40:32 PM »

Measured at 10lbs, very smooth and centers well.

JR · « **Reply #180 on:** May 24, 2020, 03:15:45 PM »

Setting it up for quick use today but I have another thought on how to make this work. Why not a little air ram setup?

Use a 12v pump/tank and two 12v air solenoids. 100psi with a 2-3 inch ram should do it. Same switches and mounts could be used too.

Just a quick search and I found this;

JR · « **Reply #181 on:** May 26, 2020, 08:58:35 PM »

Long story short I needed a way to get this front hydro working. Brought DUG home to do some work so easier to work on(am I repeating myself?)

Pricing out the stock parts that I am not sure if they work was around $800. This could be the future, or air, but here is the route now.

Decided to go mechanical. Seemed easy, run a rod from the hydr valve to the cab and be done. First I removed all the stock parts to clear up the area.

JR · « **Reply #182 on:** May 26, 2020, 09:01:41 PM »

Welded a bolt to the 3/8 rod end for the stock heim (that is the arm for it in the upper right picture hanging down.

Drilled a couple holes and the rod was in the cab. Even missed all the other parts in the way. Figured an end on it and done. Well no go. Was to low to work. It worked but down where it was it could not be moved with normal arms and joints, just to low.

JR · « **Reply #183 on:** May 26, 2020, 09:08:31 PM »

So that come out. Needed to be higher for sure, but how. Looking at the arm on the valve I figured I could turn it over or make a new arm, but the pin/slot locations were a little tight to knock one out fast. But adding an arm to the top of the stock arm should work.

I check for cab clearance, made the arm about the same length, laid it over to clear the cab and it looked OK. Was a little harder to move when positioned below so I thought another arm up top would do the trick.

Using the same rod/heim I was able to run it almost straight into the cab, next to the right joystick. Seemed good but how to move it from up top or close to it. So using bolts for the throttle I mounted a small piece of angle and put a bend in the rod. I used a 16in piece of 1x1/8 bar and drilled a pivot and hole for the rod. The angle held the rod into the bar, but I still drilled it for a cotter pin. Got a shouldered bolt for the pivot and spaced it all with washers.

Seemed to work OK and I bent over the bar just below the grip so it could be found easy. Tore it down, gave it a coat of black and bolted in. Works pretty good with just a little slop. Returns to center and I have enough reach to get to and the longer gives me the leverage it needed.

JR · « **Reply #184 on:** May 26, 2020, 09:21:06 PM »

And the cab opens and closes without any interference.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #185 on:** May 26, 2020, 11:23:43 PM »

I

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #186 on:** May 27, 2020, 02:23:56 AM »

That is sweet Dave, now I feel better,,,,,,,,,

It worked great. Handle seems just about right and pull to close, etc.

In fact the rosemary out front lasted about 10 minutes. Spent more time cleaning up than tearing it up.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #187 on:** May 27, 2020, 06:50:55 AM »

Nice!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JR · « **Reply #188 on:** May 28, 2020, 05:55:09 PM »

Onto the next "mod". Love the claw but it bites about 6 inches to the rear of the blade. I noticed I had to really dig to get what I wanted to grab on my rosemary and the neighbors pile.

Going to do a simple pie cut and move the pinch closer to the blade edge, say 1-2 inches. Made up a template, figured my pie size and time for the plasma,,,,

JR · « **Reply #189 on:** May 29, 2020, 03:13:19 AM »

Then a little trimming, heating and a tac weld.

JR · « **Reply #190 on:** May 29, 2020, 03:21:04 AM »

Couple of good beads which the Miller 211 handled easy since the metal is crap and just doing 1/4in per pass.

Little cleanup and paint, came out just right. Decided no side plates needed, this works on compression. See how it works if I need to add teeth, but I don't really think so.

JR · « **Reply #191 on:** May 29, 2020, 03:25:49 AM »

The I added some ply to the trailer. Sliding around when loading and such. Comes right out for dumping, just need a tab on the rear piece so it says, others have the hooks.

Claw needs a step too. Top plate was maybe 3in and smooth. Had this piece of steel step, made a little brace and done. Posted a better pic!

JR · « **Reply #192 on:** May 29, 2020, 08:29:56 AM »

Also finally got the new seat installed. Feels much better and hopefully won't show the dirt as much.

JR · « **Reply #193 on:** May 31, 2020, 02:48:37 PM »

Didn't get much use out of it with working on the road, http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=3981.new#new

Basically fixed the hanging hoses after a test, worked great!

JR · « **Reply #194 on:** October 25, 2023, 11:17:37 PM »

Dang, 3 years since I posted on the thread.

Repairing the tilt ram my neigbor popped last year after the "flood". Rear right tire still goes done, but holds a seal so not and issue at all yet. Starts like a champ too.

Ram is apart, cleaned up and just 2 seals to go. Damage was obvious. Couple of burrs on the piston, cleaned it and the rod with 1000 sand paper. (lathes are nice)

38mm nut was a chore, cap was easy (set screw) Should finish it up tomorrow.