Lets get started Reloading

[Flyin6]

This should be fun!

I think it is time to start reloading again

So let's set up a respectable (Not over the top) reloading operation from scratch

I want to reload:

Pistol: 9mm, .45auto

Rifle: 5.56mm, 7.62mm. 6.5 PRC and possibly 45/70 should I be able to find one.

Shotgun: 12 gage

If I had to start with just a few, then: 9mm luger, 5.56mm and 7.62 X 51

I'll need:

A press
Tumbler
powder charge measuring something
primers
bullets (varied and mixed)
cases
powder
Who knows what else

So let's see what you all suggest I buy...

[Atkinsmatt]

Dies, scale, micrometer, trays are handy.

[TexasRedNeck]

This should be fun!

I think it is time to start reloading again

So let's set up a respectable (Not over the top) reloading operation from scratch

I want to reload:

Pistol: 9mm, .45auto

Rifle: 5.56mm, 7.62mm. 6.5 PRC and possibly 45/70 should I be able to find one.

Shotgun: 12 gage

If I had to start with just a few, then: 9mm luger, 5.56mm and 7.62 X 51

I'll need:

A press
Tumbler
powder charge measuring something
primers
bullets (varied and mixed)
cases
powder
Who knows what else

So let's see what you all suggest I buy...

Manuals or this. https://www.neconos.com

Start with a single stage press.  https://www.rcbs.com/presses/single-stage/summit-single-stage-reloading-press/16-9290.html

This is a good one. 


Then you’ll need a really good scale.  This is a good option because it will repeatedly dispense the exact amount you program to speed up the process

https://www.rcbs.com/priming-and-powder-charging/chargemaster-link-electronic-powder-dispenser/16-98944.html

Reloading trays

https://www.midwayusa.com/reloading-trays/br?cid=8938

Powder funnels

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012952421?pid=842036

Case length gauge

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012875376?pid=559802

Bullet puller - we all make mistakes

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012879140?pid=667064

Log book - A pilut should know why

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014310772?pid=858623

Vibratory cleaner - get the big one, buy once cry once

https://www.dillonprecision.com/cv-2001-vibratory-case-cleaner_8_8_23658.html

And the separator

https://www.dillonprecision.com/cm-2000-case-media-separator_8_8_23662.html

Case lube

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101274264?pid=438512

Dial caliper - get a good one

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007344259?pid=411115

That should get you going when you add dies of your choice.  I suggest always getting carbide dies

That’s a pretty basic set up and will serve you well, especially for the precision rifle where you aren’t loading high volume.

Once you master this, then you can move to the progressive press like the Dillon 750.  But even then, you will still use the single stage for certain things.

I always load my hunting ammo, precision rifle ammo and really hot magnum ammo on the single stage.  Much more precise and less chance of making a mistake and blowing yourself up.


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[Sammconn]

^^this sums it up well.

I’ll echo manuals and log book.
And a good scale.
The rest you can add later.

[TexasRedNeck]

And when you get a little more sophisticated at developing your own loads or for long range, knowing the exact muzzle velocity out of your weapon is key.

A good chronograph is a must and I always run my loads over the chrono.  Reloading manuals and software both tend to be a tad conservative so its always best to use velocity  as one indicator of when you are approaching a hot load and also the standard deviation of 5 or 10 shots will give you an indication of consistency which is key for long distance accuracy.

This is what I have and I really like the printer function.  I can tape the printed output to the logbook page.

https://oehler-research.com/product/35p-complete-kit/

This is what I will likely get next

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016447132?pid=523157


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[Bob Smith]

Good list from Charles, I would also have a good manual scale just for checking the electronic one or other weighing chores. My chargemaster does not like a breeze, when the air handler comes on I take a break or do other tasks. Also best to clean the brass before running it through the dies.  No, you won’t save money loading your own, but you will know how they are put together.

[TexasRedNeck]

Great point Bob.  A simple beam scale is good peace of mind..and insurance

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016279131?pid=212331


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[Bear9350]

I would echo most of what TRN said. A good manual is a must.  Read through it before you get started.

Honestly you can get by and into reloading with something like the Lee anniversary kit.  That is what I started with for a couple years before I got into more precision shooting.  A press with the ability to seat primers, beam scale, and powder funnel are all you really need for tools reloading specific tools.

Start with a single stage press.  There are a lot of good options out there.  The RSBC is one of them.  I really like the Forster CO-AX I have and it is one of the go to presses for precision reloading.  MEC (traditionally shotgun) had a metallic press similar to the CO-AX a lot of guys like.

The Charge Master is OK for getting started.  The scale isn't the best and they do tend to float a bit.  Most guys that I know of still using them will use the Charge Master to dump a charge and double check everything on a beam scale.  For just getting started a good beam scale, some scoops and a powder trickler will do the trick too. Once you get into a rhythm it can be just as fast as the Match Master. I have a Frankford Arsenal Intellidroper, similar to the Match Master but doesn't seem to float as much.

A good caliper is a must, dial or digital will work just fine.  If you don't have one you can't go wrong with a Mitutoyo.  Just make sure you buy it from some where reputable as there are ton's of cheap knock-offs out there.

I've got a Frankford Arsenal tumbler and media separator.  I can tumble about 300 pieces of rifle brass with no issue in it.  Works perfect for my batch sizes.

That One Shot case lube is the way to go.  Make sure it is the case lube and not the lube and cleaner.

You will want a tray to set the cases in while processing and need the powder funnel to dump powder into the case.

Depending on the press you get it likely will come with some sort of setup to press primers into the primer pocket.  That will work fine to get started but there are better dedicated ways to seat primers.  There are the hand held options and bench mounted options.

I should be picking up a new barrel in 280AI in about 2 weeks.  Hoping to have a good load worked up for it before the middle of November for deer season.  I can do a write up on my process and tools when I do it. 

Moving forward I am trying to avoid Midway as much as possible.  Prices have been going up everywhere but Midway has, in almost every case, been significantly higher then every other retailer I check.

[Bear9350]

And when you get a little more sophisticated at developing your own loads or for long range, knowing the exact muzzle velocity out of your weapon is key.

A good chronograph is a must and I always run my loads over the chrono.  Reloading manuals and software both tend to be a tad conservative so its always best to use velocity  as one indicator of when you are approaching a hot load and also the standard deviation of 5 or 10 shots will give you an indication of consistency which is key for long distance accuracy.

This is what I have and I really like the printer function.  I can tape the printed output to the logbook page.

https://oehler-research.com/product/35p-complete-kit/

This is what I will likely get next

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016447132?pid=523157


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I've never had good luck with a labradar.  Seems to always miss a shot or pause etc..  I use a Magneto Speed and have never had an issue.  The only issue is that you attach it directly to the end of the barrel and it can cause a POI shift even with the heavy barrels I shot.

[Bob Smith]

And when you get a little more sophisticated at developing your own loads or for long range, knowing the exact muzzle velocity out of your weapon is key.

A good chronograph is a must and I always run my loads over the chrono.  Reloading manuals and software both tend to be a tad conservative so its always best to use velocity  as one indicator of when you are approaching a hot load and also the standard deviation of 5 or 10 shots will give you an indication of consistency which is key for long distance accuracy.

This is what I have and I really like the printer function.  I can tape the printed output to the logbook page.

https://oehler-research.com/product/35p-complete-kit/

This is what I will likely get next

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016447132?pid=523157


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've never had good luck with a labradar.  Seems to always miss a shot or pause etc..  I use a Magneto Speed and have never had an issue.  The only issue is that you attach it directly to the end of the barrel and it can cause a POI shift even with the heavy barrels I shot.

I may check into that one as the range I use is very picky about touching anything while the range is cold and you can’t be adjusting the thing when the range is hot. Attaching something to the barrel while the rang is hot would work as long as you keep it pointed downrange and pointed at the target. I know safety is important, but if the bolt is out of the rifle and you are only checking position of equipment, and the range master is standing by, what is the problem. There are only 6 stations at this range to start with so only 5 other people have to agree it is ok.