Author Topic: My New Land "Raptor Ridge" (Read 94764 times)

JR · « **Reply #1200 on:** October 15, 2021, 12:07:25 AM »

Having fuel supply issue, running it from a bottle right now. Pulled the fuel line from the tank and saw an issue with the pickup, like none! I broke off in the tank. Was just a 1/4 ID line, so I got some good Vinton hose from NAPA for it. Now it runs great again.

JR · « **Reply #1201 on:** October 18, 2021, 11:44:30 PM »

Welded a couple 8mm bolts to the boom to hold the hard line. Was dangling almost to the bucket.

Heated, beat and painted on a few more parts, post tomorrow.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1202 on:** October 20, 2021, 08:25:58 PM »

Those hard lines are a blessing and a curse. Every leak we have usually comes from the union of the hardline and the hose, that connection is sensitive to ID10T with big wrenches trying to torque them more instead of pulling and cleaning and reinstalling

Moved a hoe Tuesday that the hydro pump was stuck on, Had to build a hose to loop the system so I could turn the motor over, it would overcome the pressure on the pump and the cold start motor.

Interesting issues for sure

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JR · « **Reply #1203 on:** October 20, 2021, 09:41:09 PM »

Yep, only have one line that seeps up front for the curl. Leaking at the joint. This one is about 6' and would not last long. Just got some slip over sheathing to fix a couple issues.

Big thing now is the seat. Bottom is the worst, the way it is designed you can't just put any seat but theirs on the bottom. back I think I can build a tray for and do myself.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1204 on:** October 20, 2021, 09:59:45 PM »

I think you're on to the correct fix

Build your own frame then score a quality seat from Northern or similar

JR · « **Reply #1205 on:** October 20, 2021, 10:04:37 PM »

Tried that but to keep the suspension and the seatbelt I need to use the stock seat tray. No interlock to worry about though.

Lower cushion is $180 from bobcat if they have them,,,,,,,,,, I

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1206 on:** October 21, 2021, 01:30:54 AM »

The Deere 544 loader we just put a seat in with air ride cost $4600 I think lol

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JR · « **Reply #1207 on:** October 21, 2021, 05:40:34 AM »

The seat sits on a tray bolted on a firewall to the engine bay. Whole assm is around $700. All the floor panels come out (and are right now for painting)

Found the lower for $150 shipped on fleebay. So I will make a back and headrest, then add a cover.

JR · « **Reply #1208 on:** October 30, 2021, 02:56:02 AM »

Been poking away at the 331, rain and 3 birthdays (kids) slow you down a touch.

Seat came in and I got the vinyl to redo the backrest.

Cleaned up the battery tray and treated the rust and gave it a good coat of rustolium.

Hydro cover needed the hinges straightened out, so it got pulled off. Had some good dents so they got a little filler. Not making it perfect at all.

Got the bushings for the track controls, they were nasty. Won't take all the slop out, but hopefully less than 3" play.

JR · « **Reply #1209 on:** October 30, 2021, 03:00:26 AM »

Filler covers the big dents, primer just for the scratches. All needs a little more sanding.

Pulled the other drive motor cover. How does all this crap get in there! Other side a straightened out was just as bad.

As its opened up, been coating what I can find with rust converter. Couple hose ends were the worst.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1210 on:** October 30, 2021, 11:34:43 AM »

Definitely not a sealed unit in there for sure, many of our hoes spend months in water 3’ deep. My guess would be yours has seen similar events at one point or another

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JR · « **Reply #1211 on:** November 01, 2021, 07:49:43 PM »

Want to get it and few other things up to the Ridge this weekend, but rain is slowing me down again.

Pad still has a big pile of dirt on it since I want to put the grating down first. Bobcat will make that very easy. Need to name it too.

Final paint will be tan upper with undercoating along the bottom. Few if any decals.

JR · « **Reply #1212 on:** November 04, 2021, 10:31:10 PM »

Figured out why the track area gets filled with crud. I have the covers off the drive motor area and was washing more crud from the "body" and it runs all the way down, trough the frame and into the motor area. Looks like I will add a little hole to the covers before they go back on. Still needs power wash.

Got the seat area cleaned up and mounted the new lower cushion. Guess I will get a cover for it too.

Got all the floor panels cleaned and painted.

JR · « **Reply #1213 on:** November 04, 2021, 10:38:01 PM »

Added about 6" to the thumb so it closes on the bucket teeth.

Had the local shop cut the rough pieces, cleaned them and the thumb off.

Tacted, welded (little grinding) and painted, more better!!

Going to build a couple cylinder guards to tomorrow and add a tow hook to the blade, maybe a ball mount too.

Discovered a couple hoses that need addressing and I need to move that hyd line I fixed to the upper part of the boom.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1214 on:** November 04, 2021, 10:46:13 PM »

Nice work on that thumb!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1215 on:** November 04, 2021, 11:46:33 PM »

Looks like ya did a clean job on that repair for sure!

Interested on your tow hook idea, seems all of our mini x have chain loops on the ends of the blade ( back side ) and they are always smashed to hell

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JR · « **Reply #1216 on:** November 05, 2021, 12:16:10 AM »

There is a 5/8 d ring in the 2ft bucket, dead center, sorta weird. Just putting a 1/2 in the center of the front blade, should be more than enough.

Like to put something on the end of the boom, still looking for a spot. I saw some have a clevis mount there, might be an idea.

JR · « **Reply #1217 on:** November 12, 2021, 02:00:29 AM »

Rebuilt all the foot controls. New bushing for the track controls, what a pain. Housing is alum, so crusty I had to use a pitman puller to get the handle off.

Boom swing was so hard it would keep swinging unless you stopped it. Smooth now and stops when you let up. Had to tac weld the bushings to get out. Some weird metal (tin?)

JR · « **Reply #1218 on:** November 12, 2021, 02:04:40 AM »

Pulled the louvers off and bent straight, little welding and paint.

Reran the left boom hydro line from below to top (as factory) Never looked right so I found pics and remedied.

JR · « **Reply #1219 on:** November 12, 2021, 02:08:07 AM »

Got all the controls back on and used liberal (only good time its used) amounts of rust reform. Still need to mount floor plates.

Checking the controls got this thing up and adjusted the tracks. Had to replace 1 grease fitting as it pointed up into the housing, just needed a 45* on it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1220 on:** November 12, 2021, 06:30:30 AM »

That’s a lot of work JR. Gonna be nice. I think you should go for total black out on the paint job.!

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JR · « **Reply #1221 on:** November 12, 2021, 02:03:44 PM »

But it would look dirty all the time. Black base and tan/grey for the white areas for now. Using acrylic house paint again, works good.

JR · « **Reply #1222 on:** November 17, 2021, 08:42:13 PM »

So today I replaced the return line on the bobcat. Line I had replaced was all swollen and the ends were not sealing causing a prime issue.

Cleaned off the blade and prepped for the new edge I got from Titan, 60in carbon steel. Had to bevel the ends to clear the stock welds. Dropped a couple times until used ratchet straps to get close then clamp down. Still have a little more gap than I like and will try to address. Also cleaned spots for the welds and straightened the blade tie downs that were bent and broken. Will add a loop of rebar around em.

I was up in the air as to whether to lay it flat, but chose to put back as factory.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1223 on:** November 17, 2021, 09:25:10 PM »

Make sure what ever you add to the hooks will allow your chain hook to slip over unless you planning on always looping the chain back to its self.

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KensAuto · « **Reply #1224 on:** November 18, 2021, 08:16:25 AM »

Carbon steel?

Sammconn · « **Reply #1225 on:** November 18, 2021, 09:28:57 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on November 18, 2021, 08:16:25 AM

Carbon steel?

Should be AR something.
It is a cutting edge after all.
Or is it so much on this application?

Maybe me and Ken are overthinking this?

KensAuto · « **Reply #1226 on:** November 18, 2021, 09:50:44 AM »

I was thinking since it was from Titan it's probably a true cutting edge, hardened, which doesn't like to be welded to a mild steel backing without a hot preheat. The times I've tried it it cracked right away.

Sammconn · « **Reply #1227 on:** November 18, 2021, 10:47:19 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on November 18, 2021, 09:50:44 AM

I was thinking since it was from Titan it's probably a true cutting edge, hardened, which doesn't like to be welded to a mild steel backing without a hot preheat. The times I've tried it it cracked right away.

There is that too.

JR · « **Reply #1228 on:** November 18, 2021, 11:07:05 AM »

Yes, a cutting edge. Good to know about the preheast, easy enough.

Just a 1/2 D-Ring center of the blade, strongest point where it all comes together.

JR · « **Reply #1229 on:** November 18, 2021, 09:49:13 PM »

Just had enough time to work on the corner tiedowns, added 3/8 rebar. Needs final welding.

Weld on the 1/2 d-ring, rated at 12k, more than enough for a 7500lb machine.

Tacted the blade on, will heat and final weld when the rain quits.

JR · « **Reply #1230 on:** November 20, 2021, 09:36:02 PM »

Finished up the blade today, need to address the ram guard and the hoses next.

Will build a cover for the ram and hoses (stock) and replace one hose that is iffy, getting the slack out too.

JR · « **Reply #1231 on:** November 20, 2021, 09:48:03 PM »

Already having tacked the blade on, I heated it up for welding, one spot at a time starting from the center. Did the same on the bottom.

Only issue I found was a crack in the blade frame, common on these. Ground it out and filled. Discovered during that the metal is paper thin and the whole bottom will need to be replaced sometime. Guess years of dragging it on cement wore it thin.

JR · « **Reply #1232 on:** November 20, 2021, 09:52:55 PM »

Coat of etching primer and paint and its GTG.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1233 on:** November 21, 2021, 11:08:37 AM »

JR you are amazing
The tenacity with which you go after perfection in these old pieces of equipment you buy
Honestly the best thing for them is to fall into your ownership!
For blades and frames and things like that, honestly brushing or rolling on a good enamel with hardener is about the easiest/smartest way of attacking these things.
If I ever get pressurized and running water farmside, you will see that excavator undergo an amazing transition from faded, bent and so forth to looking pretty spiffy with fresh paint.

JR · « **Reply #1234 on:** November 21, 2021, 02:03:26 PM »

Paint has already started, using acrylic latex semi gloss, rolled on.

Worked good on DUG, this is better paint then that and way cheaper than hardened enamel. I like some of the TSC Majic paints, but none are semi. They do use a hardener though.

JR · « **Reply #1235 on:** November 26, 2021, 11:06:40 PM »

Finished up the blade hoses. Not to bad once I cut down a wrench for the tight area and my xl hands.

Took most of the slack out and ran sheathing all the way up to the hyrdo distribution swivel.

Replaced 5 hoses total, all looked like this.

JR · « **Reply #1236 on:** November 26, 2021, 11:11:27 PM »

Right at $300 for the 5 hoses, including the NAPA 20% bag deal.

Replaced a -10 up top the boom left that was seeping and 2 on the thumb that bad. All got a sleeve, one more to sleeve on the lower boom still.

JR · « **Reply #1237 on:** November 30, 2021, 05:57:42 PM »

Was just told there is NO delivery date for my building. They have a new factory coming on, but early 2022.

Was told Dec 1st several months ago when they soaked my for another 9.5k in "costs", which felt I was under duress to agree to, 20k deposit when ordered. Looking for an attorney now to go over this as I purchased in Ca.

Will start another part when the pad is finished, seems fitting with the project.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1238 on:** November 30, 2021, 06:04:46 PM »

Time value of money at least. You should be able to get some back. Maybe talk to them before you hire an attorney. No one wins when an attorney get involved. But I would make sure that you read the fine print on your contract lest you be negotiating from a position of weakness

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JR · « **Reply #1239 on:** November 30, 2021, 06:17:19 PM »

From what I read, they guarantee the price for 90 days. An attorney will be to see if I have something to really work with. My feeling is with the deposit I am under contract for that building at that price. If I didn't pay the "extra" for material increases, no building, lost deposit. I really want to have the building on the ground first though. By the way, if it over 70K total now so a couple hundred to have an attorney look at is well worth it.

JR · « **Reply #1240 on:** December 01, 2021, 04:03:58 PM »

I just got some of this stuff to try on the bobcat tracks. There is a 3-4in tear on an outside edge I want to address. https://youtu.be/v8j-fD-4NsM

Watched the vid and thought that would work, but when I called they have a product made for doing this type of repair in cans, called Panget.

Will post results for sure.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1241 on:** December 01, 2021, 09:00:08 PM »

Quote from: JR on December 01, 2021, 04:03:58 PM

I just got some of this stuff to try on the bobcat tracks. There is a 3-4in tear on an outside edge I want to address. https://youtu.be/v8j-fD-4NsM

Watched the vid and thought that would work, but when I called they have a product made for doing this type of repair in cans, called Panget.

Will post results for sure.

What kinds of holes on your tracks are you trying to fix?

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JR · « **Reply #1242 on:** December 01, 2021, 10:04:02 PM »

I have 2 tears, one is on the outside edge I will try first. Other is near the center next to the drive cogs.

Just don't want them to get worse.

JR · « **Reply #1243 on:** December 01, 2021, 10:10:08 PM »

Finished the rear undercarrage and drive motor guards. Drilled a hole for drainage on the bottom using my mag drill, worked good.

JR · « **Reply #1244 on:** December 01, 2021, 10:14:15 PM »

Those of you with smaller excavators know about the left control being the safety also. Mine is so stiff it is 2 handed ordeal to get it down. No way to lube it even with covers off, so I drilled a small hole to allow lube to soak into the shaft area. Still to soon knowing if it works, but it is soaking up the ATF/oil mix I use for this stuff.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1245 on:** December 04, 2021, 08:30:17 PM »

Nice work

Nice cleanup!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #1246 on:** December 04, 2021, 10:23:09 PM »

I’m not sure what your referring to as a left hand safety?

The drop down lever next to the door that allows the machine to move? That what your modding to move?

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JR · « **Reply #1247 on:** December 04, 2021, 11:31:37 PM »

Yes, the counsel. Nothing works till you put it down.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #1248 on:** December 05, 2021, 08:33:42 AM »

Tell me about your mag drill? Would like to have one but not for $800

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JR · « **Reply #1249 on:** December 05, 2021, 01:12:32 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on December 05, 2021, 08:33:42 AM

Tell me about your mag drill? Would like to have one but not for $800

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I got about the cheapest with bits that had good reviews. Just a tad over $300. Sure I will drill some holes, but didn't need name brand for something that I may use every year a few times, but sure it will get used on the building. I should ahve got one with a case though, would have been another $50, but so are generic cases.

Mine; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KB1NQ7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details