REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Flyin6 on June 20, 2019, 07:51:46 PM
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Part 5 sat dormant for long enough so I'll let that sleeping horse rest in peace.
Was just freshening my now eight year old C-Max truck, but like always, I go a bit further than just a simple cleanup. And Ravin8, the 02 Burb has not come out of the shop just yet so I have some time to spend on this great truck which is sorely lacking some TLC.
I started with a fresh oil change using the Delvac. The stuff is cheap, works great, and I feel better knowing there isn't oil in there from the last century. I still use the dual filter thing from Amsoil, but I just use two quality filters on there and change them both.
After that, I greased everything. and used the gun to pump out the old grease. I replaced it with some quality red grease of a marine grade.
The chassis was given to the wire brush and then treated to some fresh paint and undercoating. It looks pretty darned good now.
I had a pesky slow seep from those Amsoil remote filter hoses, so I dismantled all that, added new seals and cleaned it up like new.
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I started organizing the interior again. I have added magnets in the console and other places to simply hold metal things like keys and the spline lug not in place. I found it to work pretty well for spare lug nuts and spare mags for the Glock.
I added some velcro loops to the rear door frame and now keep the spare fuel can spout inside the box
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Then I added some catch-all bags onto each door
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The spare tire swing arm and fuel can rack was looking pretty worn. I actually use my stuff and I want to say I have used those cans many, many times to fuel tractors, excavators, and who knows what.
All better now, cleaned and primed then temporarily top coated with enamel
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Knocked the rust spots down and shot a fresh coat of paint onto the cans
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This self made piece of angle which kept the door frame solid had shed all its rivets last winter. I drilled out the stubs and shot new ones.
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I think those rivets failed because heavy things have been crashing into the doors. I found bent linkages and guy rods. I straightened everything and greased the mating surfaces. It feels like new once again.
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^^^ I know, not too exciting. Just pics, man, roll with it.
Now its hard to tell, but I sanded and repainted the AMP Research steps. Using the cheapo Harbour Freight truck bed coating, I got a great factory looking finish.
Funny, but I have literally used all brands of this stuff, and by far the least expensive HF spray is the best, with the best spray nozzle.
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Time for the rear bumper to start looking new again. It looks pretty run down and used, and if truth be known, it has been.
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That took awhile, but in the afterward, I am well pleased with the results
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Then I replaced half of the lug nuts with new ones. The black is out and the polished look is back for awhile
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This was, of course a TAO (Trooper Approved Operation)
He's the latest mutt to call this place home. He is a breed known to stay close to his people. Well, I guess he must still be looking for them because despite everything I do, he takes off almost every day. I have came to label him as an "invasive species."
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I decided to see if there was any shine in the paint. So I washed off a section and buffed it up with some meguiars glaze. I was surprised to find some shine in there:
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No, I didn't do the door or anything else, just the quarter and some adjacent parts.
While I had it all shiny, I laid down a new RMTWS decal. We are using the nautical compass as the brand, if you haven't already figured it out
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Are you selling big stickers and small? I’d put one in the window of the garage,
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Are you selling big stickers and small? I’d put one in the window of the garage,
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i’ll take one as well
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I’m in for a small one
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Selling stickers, hmmm, never thought about that. The flag decals are cheap. I can print up a hundred and just send everyone a couple. As for the big ones, I had 10. Destroyed two already. They are not very user friendly...
I put two on the burb, two on the silverado, and Duane wants to add one to his new camper and possibly his truck. That will leave me with effectively, none.
But I can order another batch. Shipping and packaging would be the issue. The big one would need to come in a cardboard tube.
So, how many people want one?
And I don't have them in hand yet, but I am creating a line of message T-shirts. Will be $20 + shipping. Will carry a heavy duty message that takes on (over time) every social issue we face. The retort to the common belief will have the scripture printed immediately below the statement which corrects what is becoming the common belief.
I am ordering 100 of the first message, then 500 more if the response blows up, which I believe it will. This T-thing is what will finance the growth of this Real Man program.
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Next up, I painted the front bumper. It took a lot os sanding with a #60 grit disk to knock down the existing finish on the Road Armor front piece
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And I dropped out those crappy Warn 350 series fog lights. They are junk and I advise against buying them. All four had a lot of water in them. Only three worked, and all four had a ton of rust on the reflector. Additionally they threw out very little light and I therefore almost never used them.
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This cheapo HF stuff is getting to be my favorite of the rattle can bed liners
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This stuff looks really good. It dried hard as iron in an hour.
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I put four of the cheapo chinaman LED cubes in the fog light holes of the bumper
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Then i mounted a fifth inside the wheel well facing outward perpendicular to the longitudinal axis
Amd yes, I tucked and taped all the wires up and out of the way
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I pulled the roller fairhead apart to get the rusty roller axles taken care of and everything freshened up
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I figured out that I could stop sime clevis rattle by simply installing a PVC spacer bushing into the clevis pin hole
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The rear bumper is now 100% reassembled and repainted.
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The front is nearly complete
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So, how many people want one?
Id Like a couple small decals. For my pickup and my big truck. When T-shirts come available I would like one of them as well.
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So, how many people want one?
Id Like a couple small decals. For my pickup and my big truck. When T-shirts come available I would like one of them as well.
^^^^ Same for me, xl tall size on t-shirt would be appreciated too
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OK, start PM'ing me with your address, credit card number, :facepalm: social security number, :shocked: passwords to your bank accounts :huh: and copy oy your updated will, :knucklehead: making me the benefactor :likebutton: and I'll get the list started.
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OK, start PM'ing me with your address, credit card number, :facepalm: social security number, :shocked: passwords to your bank accounts :huh: and copy oy your updated will, :knucklehead: making me the benefactor :likebutton: and I'll get the list started.
Just trying to help Ken, does anyone know if he’s living with H or she’s moved into his place?
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As a part of my update/reset/cleanup of my 2011 LML, next up I polished the thing. But first, I stuck the front bumper back together. Got to say, that bumper coating that HF sells is darned good stuff. No clue about the long term, but out of the chock blocks, I would be a happee kamper!
So the winch fairhead went back on. I stretched then crushed a sway bar bushing onto each stud to give the fairhead some spacing to delay a CAA (Crud accumulation area) and just to do something different. Then I cleaned the somewhat pitted roller axles, coated everything with marine grease, used new clips and put all that back together
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I polished the whole thing with an orbital. You can see a lot of stone chippage happening like everywhere. Those mall gravel deposits are taking their toll!
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For polishing I mix equal parts of Meguiars mirror glaze, Turtle wax and Nu-Finish with a squirt of the turtle was liquid clear stuff in a bottle and buff the paint while it is wet. You only have to buf until things seem to dull up. That is the materials getting all of the surface whatever off and down to actual paint/clear coat. I thin immediately spray it off, then wash with a terrycloth towel and a silicone based car detergent. Spray off that and KA-BOOM yos has a shine.
I do the entire vehicle like that, then microfiber dry the surface, then finish with a detailer mist, spray and wipe. After that it's back to mudding on the farm followed by a visit to the "Blue Beacon" truck wash.
Now if you have never visited that establishment, and they are all over the US, you are missing out. They change the water PH, pay attention to water pressure, and use a step by step process of chemicals which leaves you sparkling clean. I always have them spray the wheel wells and UC with Rain X, which makes this gooey KY mud rinse right off
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The back side is shot. It has been splashed with years of petroleum products shaking out of the cans and is just gone. I'm looking at a repaint of this whole panel
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Really happy with how the bumper looks after recoating. Some of you will remember when I installed this bumper in 2012. So I got 7 full years out of whatever Road Armor puts on it, but for the past few years it has been faded to a light gray.
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That cheapo HF bed liner spray comes in a gallon for under $40.
Given all the chips and now a bunch of small dents from those mud tires tossing projections onto my bodywork, I think I am going to coat everything below the trim panel on the side from front to back.
I think my plan will be to just rough up with #60 grit and then use a "Shutz" gun to blast the stuff all over the side, nearby dogs and mud daubers who decide to glue spider zombies to my tool box lid!
Shot one down, mid flight yesterday with a handy can of spray adhesive...Ha!
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Don I am looking for some photos of your exhaust on this truck, I’d like to see how you have it routed out the back in front of the rear tire
But I found this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/db298dff744b8ffe777fa57a3a4bb058.jpg)
Can you help so I don’t keep digging up ol dirt
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Don I am looking for some photos of your exhaust on this truck, I’d like to see how you have it routed out the back in front of the rear tire
But I found this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/db298dff744b8ffe777fa57a3a4bb058.jpg)
Can you help so I don’t keep digging up ol dirt
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Did you pick that particular pic to stir up some crap?
Just can't leave things alone can ya.
Someone who lives closer to him than me, beat him for awhile, and post pics or it didn't happen!
OK, on a lighter note, I simply used the over the hump tailpipe section and bolted it to the back of the muffla'
I'll get ya a pic
Bonehead!
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I am not gonna admit or deny anything but yes a picture or a few would be very helpful
Thanks sir
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I am not gonna admit or deny anything but yes a picture or a few would be very helpful
Thanks sir
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Two words: Thin Ice! ;-)
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Don, I agree with bed liner idea. I however think if it were me I would pony up for the good linex uv protected stuff over the HF brand at least until you’ve had the HF stuff on the bumpers weathered for several years.
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Today amongst other things I cleaned out the bed area. Most of the stuff that was not used was removed and stored. We went through the med kit and BOB and tossed things that had gotten wet and checked out everything, replacing batteries and other perishables.
Then I tossed in the cargo space liner and same carpet from the Burb and called that done. The clutter in the pic is a bunch of stuff that is headed down to one of the daughter's homes. It's all gone now
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And I finished the paint polishing, topping with a coat of Nu-Finish wax for the win. The number of good sized rock chips is surprising. Those mud tires do some real damage to paint and body work. Definitely time to get the sides coated
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If you’re bored... I have never actually polished a rig, so come on out and give some pointers on the two that currently need it!
Truck sure looks good though!
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I think you’ve got a great idea, he could drive across the country showing us all how to polish our vehicles. But since he’s short on time, he can start at my house and see how it goes. ;)
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I may be looking at picking up the load range "E" tires sooner than late in the fall. It looks like I may be better off purchasing a dump trailer than renting it over and over for months to come. We have projects galore lining up here that require gravel, sand, logs, timber and so forth. And its getting to be time to start stacking in firewood for the cold season.
The size of the trailer is what is really critical. Now I think I may have to push all the way to a 16K bumper pull dump-bed and here's why. Although a 14K or even a 12K would get me decent sized loads of materials, I want to be able to transport the Kubota SVL95-2 from the farm to here and back. I'll need to do some earth moving at Casa Harward and if I have to rely on a John Deere tractor, I might as well, just start hand digging, it would be faster.
The CTL with the tooth bucket makes all that a 30 min job.
That SVL95 weighs 11,400 without any attachments and I'll bet the bucket is around 1,000 lbs, making for a total of 12,400. The 14 foot 16,000 lb dumper has a rated payload of around 12,450 which just squeaks me in. With all that load back there, I wouldn't even consider towing with a "D" load range tire, like I have now. Although these "D's" have a rating of 3,800 each, the D rated stuff will not handle the heat and I'll bet they would blow out on a 50 mile pull. So maybe there are some new Kanatis in the future.
The trailer has oil filled hubs with clear plastic hubs, load range "H" tires and 8K-8 lug axles and 5/8" studs on 17.5" wheels.
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So why not get a small size dump truck and use that to pull that trailer and the kubota? That way your not over taxing your smaller vehicles?
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And or ditch the topper for awhile and buy a gooseneck trailer. No way I’d buy that large of a bumper pull ever again....
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It has to be loaded just right an have really strong brakes for that weight in bumper pull
Gooseneck is a good idea.
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If not a small dump truck, i would second the above option as well
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How about going triple axle bumper pull? Other than the downside of buying 6 tires.
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Ever use a triple axle trailer? I’ve never experienced one that didn’t eat tires routinely. Just my 2 cents......
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So why not get a small size dump truck and use that to pull that trailer and the kubota? That way your not over taxing your smaller vehicles?
This option you've mentioned multiple times in the past as both a want/need for the farm.
And or ditch the topper for awhile and buy a gooseneck trailer. No way I’d buy that large of a bumper pull ever again....
This is the better and cheaper option. I'd go with the gooseneck, and save up for a small dump truck but it's neither my money nor my property. The topper can always be put back on if needed.
EDIT: I'd go the gooseneck route if you can SAFELY tow what you need to with a safety factor built in.
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I am on flat land and I personally would not want to pull that heavy of a bumper hitch trailer with a pick up truck. Especially not in Kentucky. We had a heavy pindle hitch equipment trailer. It really sucked behind a pickup. I preferred to hook it to the straight truck. But, I have a tendency to go overboard on my tow vehicles.
If it were me I would seriously look at a mid size truck like a FL 60 or a little Sterling or something. They are under the CDL requirements and you can pick them up pretty reasonably priced. You can't beat that Cummins/Allison combo.
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Well, the sheer cost of going from a $8K-$9K purchase in the single heavy bumper pull up to a truck and a trailer.
And this is where it goes from trying to work out something to just impossible.
Now I do appreciate the suggestions but essentially what it sounds like is, "Well we know you want a tent to go camping now and then, but what we really suggest is you buy this plot of land and a camper which you can store on the lot for when you want it. Sure the suggestion sounds like a great idea...so long as one does not consider expense.
I find little dumps which have some time on them and do not need 4-6 tires, an axle rebuilt, a brake job and a set of injectors for $8K. But a decent dump is mid twenties for something that will not kill you in costs. Then the insurance...the commercial insurance is the same as a trailer payment...land then, oh yea, there's the cost of the trailer.
Just not doable, not at all. A trailer that I can pull or nothing at all. That's where I realistically am in all this and what makes sense.
And, PLEASE, no PRETTY PLEASE, no one get insulted or have their feathers ruffled. I really do appreciate the voice of experience. But the reality of each of our situations dictates our own course of action(s)
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Tightwad.
;)
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We have a basic double axle dump trailer. I think 9k new. It’s been really great!!
Pulls well loaded or empty, I personally haven’t put a skid steer in it but the boss man has. I think just get a dump trailer and move on.
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Well, the sheer cost of going from a $8K-$9K purchase in the single heavy bumper pull up to a truck and a trailer.
And this is where it goes from trying to work out something to just impossible.
Now I do appreciate the suggestions but essentially what it sounds like is, "Well we know you want a tent to go camping now and then, but what we really suggest is you buy this plot of land and a camper which you can store on the lot for when you want it. Sure the suggestion sounds like a great idea...so long as one does not consider expense.
I find little dumps which have some time on them and do not need 4-6 tires, an axle rebuilt, a brake job and a set of injectors for $8K. But a decent dump is mid twenties for something that will not kill you in costs. Then the insurance...the commercial insurance is the same as a trailer payment...land then, oh yea, there's the cost of the trailer.
Just not doable, not at all. A trailer that I can pull or nothing at all. That's where I realistically am in all this and what makes sense.
And, PLEASE, no PRETTY PLEASE, no one get insulted or have their feathers ruffled. I really do appreciate the voice of experience. But the reality of each of our situations dictates our own course of action(s)
Which is why the voice of reason (me obviously and definitely not that guy who’s name starts with a K or a D!) said gn trailer....
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All kidding aside, my dumper pulled perfectly on the recent 1500 mile journey, maxed out at 14k. ..other than the tire issue. It pulled straight and braking was spot on. Would I jump up to 16k BP behind a 3/4 ton, maxed out? Short trips I wouldn't hesitate.
The newer trucks are pretty stout.
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We have a basic double axle dump trailer. I think 9k new. It’s been really great!!
Pulls well loaded or empty, I personally haven’t put a skid steer in it but the boss man has. I think just get a dump trailer and move on.
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Exactly!
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All kidding aside, my dumper pulled perfectly on the recent 1500 mile journey, maxed out at 14k. ..other than the tire issue. It pulled straight and braking was spot on. Would I jump up to 16k BP behind a 3/4 ton, maxed out? Short trips I wouldn't hesitate.
The newer trucks are pretty stout.
And all I would have is short trips
From here to the quarry and back, 10 miles each way, one way empty the other MGWT
From here to the farm with only the trailer, then back here @ MGWT with the Kubota inside, like 1 + 15 and backroads
Makes no sense to me to get another vehicle that requires insurance, oil changes and is already half way broken down. A trailer is stupid easy, would be new, prob need nothing for years, then just can it and get another one
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But I am going to look at converting to a gooseneck and dumping (get it: dumping...the topper for a dumper trailer ;-)) the topper. Only issue with that would be the need to go to a redo or relocate for the spare tire/fuel can carrier.
I'm going over there tomorrow.
I'll look at buying it straight out as option numba hana, and trading my pretty new 14K X 16 foot present trailer which is all eight kinds of excellent.
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Tightwad.
;)
Yup
And you may not believe this, but a man owes me over $1,000,000! No kidding, but I told him he doesn't have to pay unless he gets the job I am helping him to get. Aside from that I decided to attack the VA. I'm just darned tired of them saying none of the stuff (Broken back 2X, blown out eardrum, other ear no worky, heart stuff, chem exposure, knees and so forth) is disabling. The VA sucks and treats we soldiers like we are a nuisance. Anyway I hired a legal firm to go after them and if we win the VA will owe me back pay for a couple decades and that will equate to a sizeable chunk I could use in part to put a built LBZ in an old Suburban, buy a nice dump trailer and stuff like that.
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Well, that will be the second X on toppers......
Suppose if burb doesn’t go way of sq d you really no longer need a topper anyhow..... :popcorn:
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Well, that will be the second X on toppers......
Suppose if burb doesn’t go way of sq d you really no longer need a topper anyhow..... :popcorn:
There’s no possible way he would get rid of his people mover! Just too nice of a rig, and like you said it has a built in topper
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It’s not a people mover, it’s no better the. A tent right now. It doesn’t move under its own power with out leaving a trail of blood
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It’s not a people mover, it’s no better the. A tent right now. It doesn’t move under its own power with out leaving a trail of blood
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No, that's all fixed. Just the weird AC thing now
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It’s not a people mover, it’s no better the. A tent right now. It doesn’t move under its own power with out leaving a trail of blood
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Arnt you just a cup full of positivity!!! :D
An ACless vehicle is quite common, maybe he’s just trying something different :).
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Just trying to decrease the value so I can purchase cheap. He ignored my offer earlier
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And, PLEASE, no PRETTY PLEASE, no one get insulted or have their feathers ruffled. I really do appreciate the voice of experience. But the reality of each of our situations dictates our own course of action(s)
If anyone gets insulted over this, then they’re in the wrong place!!
This is another not likely option... but they have a tag axle setup that allows you to pull a GN or 5er with a suburban or pickup with topper. Used a lot on motor homes to keep the tongue weight off the frame (or just like the dolly on a multi-trailer semi). But again, that’s a steep price tag. Your truck with the airbags should do fine. The next logical step would probably be a dually.
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And, PLEASE, no PRETTY PLEASE, no one get insulted or have their feathers ruffled. I really do appreciate the voice of experience. But the reality of each of our situations dictates our own course of action(s)
If anyone gets insulted over this, then they’re in the wrong place!!
This is another not likely option... but they have a tag axle setup that allows you to pull a GN or 5er with a suburban or pickup with topper. Used a lot on motor homes to keep the tongue weight off the frame (or just like the dolly on a multi-trailer semi). But again, that’s a steep price tag. Your truck with the airbags should do fine. The next logical step would probably be a dually.
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You get the MCSPA! (Most Common Sense in a post award)
So, over the years the topper thing was only used as a place to place, then forget, tools, trash bags, parts, a camera, a few guns, waste oil, a critter or two, but they get noisy after a few hours, and other things. It has only worked to keep things dry and secured.
I do need a puller truck for a gooseneck and a dually would make the most sense. I think I would like to bring the SVL95 track loader out for some here and there jobs. Clearing off wooded lots to digging for patios driveways or things like that for a minimal charge. That would allow me to get the boys exposed to that kind of work and help put away for maintenance on the thing. It has over a hundred hours and I can clearly see that those tracks are going to need replacement down the road. They maintain plenty of tread, but chunk pretty bad and I have found that even with a good night's sleep, the thing does not heal itself. THose shoes definitely wear out.
It would make the most sense to reset the LML truck for pulling a gooseneck and then moving on to a dually as a more dedicated puller in time. Going over to the trailer lot this morning to see what shakes out.
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I liked the idea of sell everything and move to a beach!! Do that
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I liked the idea of sell everything and move to a beach!! Do that
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sometimes Im almost there
pulling the trigger on the 16K bumper pull
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It is very easy to overload one of those trailers. The bed will hold a lot more than the hydrolics will lift. Lucky for me someone had a miniex close by to help me unload.
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Don’t worry, Big D would never push a piece of equipment past it’s engineered specifications.... :popcorn:
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Don you could trade the LML for a dually, same year and mileage and probably not be out more than 8-10k.
Just remember that the hips are wide....need to work on that road a bit ;-)
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I have hand shoveled ours out on more than one occasion lol two trips are for wimps.
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Don you could trade the LML for a dually, same year and mileage and probably not be out more than 8-10k.
Just remember that the hips are wide....need to work on that road a bit ;-)
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Crazy talk. I'll assume you got a couple fingers too deep into the bourbon and are in recovery phase at the moment
How could I ever part with that truck of mine? I have suffered more in the innards of that thing than on the battlefields I spent considerable time flying above in air conditioned comfort ;-)
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It is very easy to overload one of those trailers. The bed will hold a lot more than the hydrolics will lift. Lucky for me someone had a miniex close by to help me unload.
Copy that Top!
I found out this 16K has a 6" lift cyl with 3,000 psi hydraulics, but yea, I'll start slow
I have a well established reputation for not pushing it too much with equipment 8-/
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And here it is:
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self contained. 5 amp charger, but it self charges through the 7th pin on the hookup
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Make sure you take the correct tools and your detail with you the first time you go dump it.
Also, Add a solar panel charger to it.
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Check out this hardware:
Oil bath axles
3/8" thick wheels
H-rated 14 ply tires
5/8" studs
Steel ring used to clamp down wheel
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Make sure you take the correct tools and your detail with you the first time you go dump it.
Also, Add a solar panel charger to it.
Tools? Pre-Rangers?
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Standard gate. Hinges at the top to spread or opens in the center to dump and access to load things like the Kubota
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Interior tie down rings
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Good dump angle, 45 degrees I think
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Big 6" lift cylinder and a scissors linkage arrangement
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Make sure you take the correct tools and your detail with you the first time you go dump it.
Also, Add a solar panel charger to it.
Tools? Pre-Rangers?
Shovels and gloves and the pre-rangers of course. So you can all learn the capacity of the trailer together.
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Built in/pull out ramps
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Make sure you take the correct tools and your detail with you the first time you go dump it.
Also, Add a solar panel charger to it.
Tools? Pre-Rangers?
Shovels and gloves and the pre-rangers of course. So you can all learn the capacity of the trailer together.
Copy...Already used it...It has a load of lumber. We went farmside and sawed up a bunch of logs to use on projects around the casa
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Got me NEEDING one again.
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Safety prop rod for when you take naps in the storage tray
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Got me NEEDING one again.
Sorry...
Move closer and you'd have a friend with a 16K one! ;-)
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Something...
Oh and the payload of this thing will accommodate my Kubota with a front bucket! Yea...
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Single cylinder? Was there no dual cylinder option? For the record I’ve watched both setups work and fail. Just curious really.....
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So we pulled it down to the farm with a light load, then dumped. We sawed timber for a couple hours, then pulled home.
No joke, I have never EVER pulled a better riding trailer. What a difference quality makes. I was doing 55 in some corners. Before I would have been white-knuckled scared as I jack-knifed on my way down a hill into some creek. It rides SO, SO much better than the other two I had. I can't wait to get it to MGWT and do a pull.
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Single cylinder? Was there no dual cylinder option? For the record I’ve watched both setups work and fail. Just curious really.....
Ya, twin cyl is old school. These have fewer moving parts, and are less prone to breaking.
My luck with long hydraulic cylinders is not good. The rids are sintered iron which is incredibly strong pushin' n' pullin' but you add an ounce of side load and it splinters.
This big single is actually a much shorter stroke, relying instead on mechanical advantage, kind of like any off road vehicle has over those girly jeep things
Sorry man...
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I second the solar charger, saves us all the time when we forget to plug the dumb thing in.
I’ll bet you could fill that trailer up with cement and it would dump, the short sides are hard to over fill from my knowledge
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so 2 questions:
1. did you trade the flat bed in on this one?
2. is it gravity down or is it set up to hydraulic down as well?
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Just keep it as level side to side as possible while dumping and moving or you will tip it over. That thing goes a long ways in the air. Nice trailer, I am sure you will find its weak links however
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Bob, Don will CREATE the weak links. :evil:
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Never load up the front of the trailer and it will dump whatever you put in it. The first 2-4" of lift doesn't have any mechanical advantage on most of them...
....but they lift higher than yours, if I looked at your picture right. Maybe they gave your trailer more mechanical advantage in exchange for a little less lift.
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Bob, Don will CREATE the weak links. :evil:
Tate, I asked if he bought the extended warranty on the grizzly. Crickets.... :wink:
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Never load up the front of the trailer and it will dump whatever you put in it. The first 2-4" of lift doesn't have any mechanical advantage on most of them...
....but they lift higher than yours, if I looked at your picture right. Maybe they gave your trailer more mechanical advantage in exchange for a little less lift.
Ken speaks from experience lifting heavy things.....
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so 2 questions:
1. did you trade the flat bed in on this one?
2. is it gravity down or is it set up to hydraulic down as well?
Trade: Yes
Gravity down? No, power up and power down
I'm already thinking about how to weld in some wedges and making it a log splitter too ;-)
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Bob, Don will CREATE the weak links. :evil:
Man, don't speak that into my life
Kelly's heroes: Man, stop with the negative vibes
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Bob, Don will CREATE the weak links. :evil:
Tate, I asked if he bought the extended warranty on the grizzly. Crickets.... :wink:
at the time, the extended war was not available.
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Have you tested loading the skidsteer in the trailer yet? I want to hear how it goes. We actually just bought a 14k dump trailer last week. Mostly for moving around 80 loads of gravel for a new driveway. But also thinking it can haul our bobcat. For me the bobcat weighs 9,700 with the bucket. So the 14k is plenty.
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Have you tested loading the skidsteer in the trailer yet? I want to hear how it goes. We actually just bought a 14k dump trailer last week. Mostly for moving around 80 loads of gravel for a new driveway. But also thinking it can haul our bobcat. For me the bobcat weighs 9,700 with the bucket. So the 14k is plenty.
But remember, the 14K includes the weight of the trailer which I'd bet is 45---low five-thousands. So at 5K for the trailer weight you'd have 9K of total weight you could carry...But you probably knew that.
With my 16K trailer and a 11,500 Skid steer, I just squeaked by within 200 lab (I think) of MGW
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And we just pulled a trailer with 5.4 tons of dense grade gravel about 20 miles. Going up one hill starting at a stop light my truck was starting to spin the rear tires below 25 mph. We pulled at 70mph on the highway just fine. I did notice some bouncing that would continue for several follow on's, so I think I'm going to purchase those wedge devices that connect the running leaf pack to the overload spring.
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And we just pulled a trailer with 5.4 tons of dense grade gravel about 20 miles. Going up one hill starting at a stop light my truck was starting to spin the rear tires below 25 mph. We pulled at 70mph on the highway just fine. I did notice some bouncing that would continue for several follow on's, so I think I'm going to purchase those wedge devices that connect the running leaf pack to the overload spring.
Wouldn’t a load leveling hitch be a better solution or convert it to gn..... :wink:
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And we just pulled a trailer with 5.4 tons of dense grade gravel about 20 miles. Going up one hill starting at a stop light my truck was starting to spin the rear tires below 25 mph. We pulled at 70mph on the highway just fine. I did notice some bouncing that would continue for several follow on's, so I think I'm going to purchase those wedge devices that connect the running leaf pack to the overload spring.
Wouldn’t a load leveling hitch be a better solution or convert it to gn..... :wink:
Nope
I just hate those LL hitches
Using a pry-bar to lever up two scary square bar steel springs and all that junk hanging off the rear of the truck, then on top of all that they are ball hitches whereas I use a pintle. I like to rig and go, then dump the trailer off to use vehicle like a car afterward.
Have you ever heard of these things I was talking about?
Forces your truck to act loaded the whole time they are engaged.
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Have you tested loading the skidsteer in the trailer yet? I want to hear how it goes. We actually just bought a 14k dump trailer last week. Mostly for moving around 80 loads of gravel for a new driveway. But also thinking it can haul our bobcat. For me the bobcat weighs 9,700 with the bucket. So the 14k is plenty.
But remember, the 14K includes the weight of the trailer which I'd bet is 45---low five-thousands. So at 5K for the trailer weight you'd have 9K of total weight you could carry...But you probably knew that.
With my 16K trailer and a 11,500 Skid steer, I just squeaked by within 200 lab (I think) of MGW
Our 14k GVWR trailer is rated at 10,400 lbs of cargo. It weighs 3,600 lbs. So I have 700 lbs extra capacity if needed for a set of forks or whatever. Your 16k trailer would be heavier, and your numbers confirm it weighs 4,300 lbs. Makes sense.
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And we just pulled a trailer with 5.4 tons of dense grade gravel about 20 miles. Going up one hill starting at a stop light my truck was starting to spin the rear tires below 25 mph. We pulled at 70mph on the highway just fine. I did notice some bouncing that would continue for several follow on's, so I think I'm going to purchase those wedge devices that connect the running leaf pack to the overload spring.
Wouldn’t a load leveling hitch be a better solution or convert it to gn..... :wink:
Nope
I just hate those LL hitches
Using a pry-bar to lever up two scary square bar steel springs and all that junk hanging off the rear of the truck, then on top of all that they are ball hitches whereas I use a pintle. I like to rig and go, then dump the trailer off to use vehicle like a car afterward.
Have you ever heard of these things I was talking about?
Forces your truck to act loaded the whole time they are engaged.
Well, we used load leveling hitches on 16k bumper pulls on steel hauling trailers prior to wising up and going gn only on pick em up trucks. I’ve never used or witnessed anyone using those fancy wedges.
I will agree with one thing you said though. Lots of junk hanging off the rear end of the truck isn’t the best bet..... ahem, ahem, 16k ahem, bumper ahem, trailer ahem, H must be near I’m getting allergic to sum thing
Sorry, about that last part something caught in my throat! :tongue:
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Shawn, you always this scared in real life? just curious. :P
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You guys are forgetting to subtract the pin weight. 1600 off the Gross trailer weight.
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Shawn, you always this scared in real life? just curious. :P
I’m not the one who carry’s a hammer daily and wears an H bumper sticker to keep mean liberals at bay..... :knucklehead:
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^^^ I'm not exactly sure what just happened
In summary, I can tow at 16K Ok, but it does bounce when hitting a divot in the road for a couple of cycles. I have seen these load carrying wedges do wonders for that. They connect the standard spring pack directly to the overload spring at the bottom of the pack without having the spring pack flex that far. Basically you're just increasing the spring rate of the pack a ton without changing its shape. That way the spring acts like it is totally loaded while at normal resting height, so steering, and headlights, and hopefully, shocks all work at a "normal" height.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmOxnzzZrU0
I'll order a set right now and report on what happens. I think they could be useful to a lot of the folks visiting this forum
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Don allow me to go on the record. Just get firestone ride rite and be done with it. Even my dually did that with 4000lbs of Pin weight and cargo. Bags were the answer. 55lbs and it was like it was on rails
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I thought he already had bags on the dmax?
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^^^ I'm not exactly sure what just happened
In summary, I can tow at 16K Ok, but it does bounce when hitting a divot in the road for a couple of cycles. I have seen these load carrying wedges do wonders for that. They connect the standard spring pack directly to the overload spring at the bottom of the pack without having the spring pack flex that far. Basically you're just increasing the spring rate of the pack a ton without changing its shape. That way the spring acts like it is totally loaded while at normal resting height, so steering, and headlights, and hopefully, shocks all work at a "normal" height.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmOxnzzZrU0
I'll order a set right now and report on what happens. I think they could be useful to a lot of the folks visiting this forum
I’m curious how they ride w/o a load....
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Don allow me to go on the record. Just get firestone ride rite and be done with it. Even my dually did that with 4000lbs of Pin weight and cargo. Bags were the answer. 55lbs and it was like it was on rails
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I have bags on it...
And they make all the difference. But that cycling is really moderated from what I saw with those spring things
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^^^ I'm not exactly sure what just happened
In summary, I can tow at 16K Ok, but it does bounce when hitting a divot in the road for a couple of cycles. I have seen these load carrying wedges do wonders for that. They connect the standard spring pack directly to the overload spring at the bottom of the pack without having the spring pack flex that far. Basically you're just increasing the spring rate of the pack a ton without changing its shape. That way the spring acts like it is totally loaded while at normal resting height, so steering, and headlights, and hopefully, shocks all work at a "normal" height.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmOxnzzZrU0
I'll order a set right now and report on what happens. I think they could be useful to a lot of the folks visiting this forum
I’m curious how they ride w/o a load....
Well, that's the thing. When not carrying, you need to disengage them to make the smooth riding primary spring pack ride independently. Otherwise I Imagine the truck would ride like a dump truck.
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You guys are forgetting to subtract the pin weight. 1600 off the Gross trailer weight.
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All this talk of numbers just seems like a suggestion to me (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/f7af82ffcc7a5f78dd4583404c1e1411.jpg)
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Torklift is a customer of mine at work. Doubt I could get anything special outta them though.
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Torklift is a customer of mine at work. Doubt I could get anything special outta them though.
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I have this, thanks for suggesting...
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Get the stainless steel ones! I have the standard steel ones om my truck and they rust after a few years, but the work very well with my heavy 5th wheel and no bags.
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Get the stainless steel ones! I have the standard steel ones om my truck and they rust after a few years, but the work very well with my heavy 5th wheel and no bags.
Too late, I already ordered the set, part number 7310...
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Get the stainless steel ones! I have the standard steel ones om my truck and they rust after a few years, but the work very well with my heavy 5th wheel and no bags.
did you get a 5th wheel after your Alaska/slide in camper trip?
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Yeah we found a 2010 Carriage Cameo 32FWS that was like new and couldn't pass it up! I'm going to do a write up next summer when I do solar on it and get it all set for boondocking.
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So I had a couple transmissions hiccups as I noted in a separate thread:
http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=4138.0
It seems to have seemed to be severe, although, now that I'm through the "Repair" the thing actually seems to be OK. I'd say the chapter on that is not closed yet, as we will only really know when and if the transmission returns to normal following the parts and fluid replacement I just did.
So the drain plug and fluid looked pretty normal in my view:
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The deep PPE pan retains quite a bit of fluid after draining (Note to self) but you will note nothing strange like clutch or band parts floating about. And the fluid smelled completely normal (As in no burned smell)
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The bottom of the valve body seemed normal as well. A wipe down with a white cloth produced next to nothing. The deep sump Allison filter was normal as well, although when I pulled it out, the seal remained lodged in the mounting hole. Makes me wonder if it had worked loose and was sucking some air up there???
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I removed the combination pressure/temp sensor and again noted nothing abnormal, and allowed a bunch more fluid to drain all over me and the floor!
This cost me $51 with shipping off of Ebay so I consider it a good investment in my trouble-shooting logic.
When Troy pulled the codes twice, at the top of the list was transmission fluid over temp along with voltage high and voltage low alerts. So we were thinking the temp sensor may be the culprit causing the strange transmission behavior.
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The new one os the OEM AC-Delco part
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A few screws later that was torqued back into place
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I thoroughly cleaned the pan with brake cleaner, then soap and water, then gave it a fresh coat of wrinkle black paint
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I could have reused the old gasket, as it is made to be reused many times, however I opted to zero-time the rubber and start fresh
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I installed both interior and exterior filters, factory Allison pieces onto the transmission and reinstalled that heavy pan.
BTW, Allison makes a deep pan filter which is in this box
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With that I poured nearly three gallons of fresh synthetic fluid and called this job done.
I noticed the transmission has that initial bite that it had before. When I would cold start in the garage then shift into reverse it would often bark the tires. The engine is at a slightly higher idle and the converter wants to hold that power. It did that giving me a pretty positive, normal, engagement and acts completely normal. I have a bit of a test drive this morning and today to check it out further. I do hope that this chapter is in the rear view mirror!
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I installed both interior and exterior filters, factory Allison pieces onto the transmission and reinstalled that heavy pan.
BTW, Allison makes a deep pan filter which is in this box
did/do you have the filter lock? i just got the kodiak pan for mine (added 3 quarts but is a factory allison pan)
wasn’t sure if your pan came with it or not. maybe that semi contributed to filter sort of coming dislodged (if what i read was correct)
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I installed both interior and exterior filters, factory Allison pieces onto the transmission and reinstalled that heavy pan.
BTW, Allison makes a deep pan filter which is in this box
did/do you have the filter lock? i just got the kodiak pan for mine (added 3 quarts but is a factory allison pan)
wasn’t sure if your pan came with it or not. maybe that semi contributed to filter sort of coming dislodged (if what i read was correct)
I do not have any sort of filter lock.
The PPE pan has some structure in its bottom which hold the filter in place, or at least prevent it from falling out of the hole in the case.
I am not saying the filter became out of the hole, and maybe not even that it had been separating, only that the seal remained in the hole when I pulled it out. That, alone made me question if it had been "loose" on the filter neck
But, thinking about it, that seems ridiculous.
I'm really thinking that the fact that the trans was 2 quarts low on fluid and that the temp sensor had likely failed and is now replaced that the thing will return to normal operation...I sure hope it does!
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So, I wanted to do a bit of catching up on parts and projects that stacked up some, so the first was a cool little trick I tried with some very powerful Neodymium magnets.
These things are no joke. I get mine from K&J Magnetics and I'm sure that while coming through the mail, they have wiped the hard drives of every computer they passed by. Seriously, I would almost say they are dangerous. Should these two get together, the only way you can get them unstuck is to slide them until they are just touching a bit then yank and hope for the best.
You have seen me use them to store wrenches, sockets and the like in the Suburban, so I decided to install more of them into the truck
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I smear some RTV onto one side, then smush them onto the surface I want to keep them on. I add a bit of tape over the top to hold it all in place while drying and also to act as a wear/scuff pad to protect whatever is going on top.
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This group secures my backup pistol, a 9mm, a spare mag for the Glock 19 and the spline socket to fit my lug nuts
I have long kept my various keys stowed where I can always find them on another strip magnet
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Next, I installed those torque-lift gizmos. These cool little things are the devices that engage the upper and lower spring leaves so that you have your full suspension well before any droop.
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Well packaged and of a simple design, they make for a nice couple hour project.
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Most overload springs are already drilled near the ends for wear pads, so you have your working hole already. the inserts are created from a stack of these milled wedges
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...Which you assemble into a stack like this:
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The directions call for you to measure the thickness of the lower leaf at a specific point and also the air gap at that point between the upper and lower spring. I recorded mine in the booklet
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One of the critical measurements is the thickness of the leaf spring itself. You must later create a spacer from washers to equal that distance. I was fortunate enough to get it spot on at .480"
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Further assembly of the assembly. You need to assemble two with right orientation and two facing left. Confusing at first you will very quickly sort it out
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Here's my group ready to get bolted on
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The installation is quick. You then slide one or two 1/4" bolts into whichever hole you can get to keep the device from doing any shifting or rotating while engaged
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Here it is fully engaged
The latch pin holds the wedge in position
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With some pressure in the airbags and the wedges all engaged:
The weight of that compact track loader will settle things down some for sure.
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I still can’t believe you need those in addition to the bags. My dually with the bags was more than enough for 5000 in the bed/pin weight
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I guess I look at is mutual support
I've had several bags let go while heavy bouncing on that "Road" into my farm.
My thought is that the bags have almost never allowed the engagement of the load carrying springs. Therefore they have carried most all of the load. Now that the torquelifts are in there, they will engage the load spring almost immediately. Then in addition to those capable springs, the bags will augment to maintain the ride attitude.
It may be the department of redundancy department thing, but, what the heck...And I am about to start transporting that Kubota a lot more often.
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Roger.
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...And I am about to start transporting that Kubota a lot more often.
Did you hire it out? Or trade work rather..
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...And I am about to start transporting that Kubota a lot more often.
Did you hire it out? Or trade work rather..
I'm going to trade some labor. In the future I am thinking of taking on some small/fun jobs and doing some favors for friends.
Its a very capable machine, might as well let it pay for itself or buy some mud tires and turbochargers! ;-)
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I need a yard finished come on up pal.
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I’ve got some dirt to move around, wife was just telling me to rent one for a week. It is on your way back from the farm after all.
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I could use that Kobelco to expand my pond....
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I could use that Kobelco to expand my pond....
Needing a bigger target for your lawnmower? Guessing eyesight is starting to fail in your later years? :popcorn:
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I think we would need to add another set of leafspring thinga-mA-JigGerZ to Haul that load Tex.
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OK going to borrow my thread back for just a moment
Driving the truck all was normal for a short time. Today, it went into limp mode, and this time had an erratic speedometer along with it seemingly in the wrong gear. Perhaps that all stems from it being in limp mode, that being shifted permanently and remaining in 3rd gear.
So I pulled the codes and got:
0708 which is a TCM code for "Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input"
I also had ECM
0673 Glow Plug cylinder three
0700 This is a generic OBD II code that simply indicates that the TCM signaled the ECM to post a code indicating a TCM notification of trouble.
So, I remember the Ally 5 speeds had loads of problems with the wiring harness connections going into the TCM. Things like pin alignment, broken plastic loom holding the pins in place and things like that. In the past I have monkeyed with that harness when I installed the autocal 5-position switch so going there first is a valid place to start. Aside from that it will either be the gear selector position problem or the TCM itself, requiring a new one. Man I hope not, but I am now in it to win it and without reliable transportation (I didn't get my burb back)
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Pull your shifter lever
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Pull your shifter lever
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Explain that PP??
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Pull your shifter lever
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Explain that PP??
Careful what you ask for that guy is named Dave! Thread may need sensored after his response!! :popcorn:
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^^^ Copy S!
I need to make a correction.
I opened up the ECM harness not this TCM harness I was talking about...Two seperate items!
So, question: I may need a TCM as I progress along this repair logic. I am currently looking at trans input and output speed sensors, and also the PRNDL switch replacement (Another trip inside the trans pan!)
If that isn't it, then it is either wiring as inside the pan harness or main harness or the actual TCM.
So I have looked at the GM ACDelco TCM and it seems to be over $600 and some a bit less. I show one on Amazon for $256 which I believe is not an AC-Delco part. Anyone know anything about this? Stay AC or are the aftermarket units OK?
Edit: My bad. Looking at the $256 unit...It has an AC-Delco tag on it!
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Last year I had a couple issues with my 06. First was a dying alternator which causes a slew of problems when the trans doesn't get proper voltage.
The next issue I was having was very similar to what you are experiencing. I chased a bunch of hypothesizes like trim valves, harness issues, leaky harness connector coming out of the trans. The actual problem was a mashed trim valve spring on my transgo shift kit. At some point the spring got hung up on the valve body and the valve proceeded to turn the spring into small pieces.
Symptoms were violent shifts, limp mode locked in gear, incorrect shaft speed codes.
Pull your A trim and B trim solenoids, the valve trims should pop out with the solenoid.
Best of luck.
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Last year I had a couple issues with my 06. First was a dying alternator which causes a slew of problems when the trans doesn't get proper voltage.
The next issue I was having was very similar to what you are experiencing. I chased a bunch of hypothesizes like trim valves, harness issues, leaky harness connector coming out of the trans. The actual problem was a mashed trim valve spring on my transgo shift kit. At some point the spring got hung up on the valve body and the valve proceeded to turn the spring into small pieces.
Symptoms were violent shifts, limp mode locked in gear, incorrect shaft speed codes.
Pull your A trim and B trim solenoids, the valve trims should pop out with the solenoid.
Best of luck.
I haven't installed a transgo kit into this truck, I did in the Suburban, perhaps that's what you were thinking?
So I emailed the great folks up at Motorops in Ontario. I got an email back in minutes telling me they would have an answer pdq. I was asking if I could flash a new TCM with my autocal or if I needed to start new. With all these varied things going wrong, that TCM is square in my gun sights as a probable culprit at this time. I do not think anything mechanical is wrong with my transmission. Heck it looked like new inside and when it works, it works like new still.
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Oh and I ordered a new glow plug to clear that #3 bad one DTC
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Don't know if you are aware but you can't just replace the TCM. It has to be programmed after installation. It will limp instantly.
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Thats the exact one that I bought to replace my bad one on my LML. Friend coded it to the VIN for $50.
Did you have TCM tuning? If so from whom?
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Don, I didnt reload my TCM tune from PPEI after my TCM went bad. I had a sneaking suspicion that the tuning might have had something to do with it. I sent you a text.
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Last Christmas when I was gifting a trans shift issue. MikeL tore into the truck and the first phone call from him was that my shiftlever/gear selector on the steering wheel column, the connecting power wires were damaged. He said it causes many grimlins in these trucks and that’s why it’s where he started. It’s simple to pull the steering wheel plastic off and one bolt to removed the shift lever. It’s worth a simple check and no $$$$ to check
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Don't know if you are aware but you can't just replace the TCM. It has to be programmed after installation. It will limp instantly.
Yea, I know.
So I already emailed motor ops to see if I could program it with my autocal with the upgraded tune...Or have to get it tuned with the GM calibration first
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Thats the exact one that I bought to replace my bad one on my LML. Friend coded it to the VIN for $50.
Did you have TCM tuning? If so from whom?
Yes, TCM programming from "Motor Ops" in Ontario
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Last Christmas when I was gifting a trans shift issue. MikeL tore into the truck and the first phone call from him was that my shiftlever/gear selector on the steering wheel column, the connecting power wires were damaged. He said it causes many grimlins in these trucks and that’s why it’s where he started. It’s simple to pull the steering wheel plastic off and one bolt to removed the shift lever. It’s worth a simple check and no $$$$ to check
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OK, I'll look at it, thanks
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Dad had this same problem on his 2011 LML. New TCM from amazon (the 256 dollar unit) and a reflash of the TCM from the dealer and zero issues since. His would even act like it was shifted to park or reverse when you would let off of the accelerator pedal. Very sketchy feeling to say the least
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Threw the towel in...Ordered the new TCM...Ouch
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Let’s hope that does the trick.
Even scarier is when my speed sensor went out on the transfer case.
Dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it wouldn’t come out of first gear.
It was a very easy fix, but wow, it had me worried for a while.
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Let’s hope that does the trick.
Even scarier is when my speed sensor went out on the transfer case.
Dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it wouldn’t come out of first gear.
It was a very easy fix, but wow, it had me worried for a while.
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Well that right there tells me it probably isn't that.
Speaking with our newest member, Jake, today...He said he would look toward wiring, as in likely that bundle inside the pan. Even though I am low mileage at 105K, I have some years on all that business. He told me about replacing yours at one point in the bus transmission. Maybe I'll be in there next, dunno. I guess I'll just keep at it
And today it has not thrown any codes. It did have one flare shift under medium acceleration. I pulled the DTC's afterward and the cache was empty. That's weird, would have thought the sensors would have picked that up...
TCM is due in tomorrow
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We did replace it and there were some hardened wires. It ultimately it was the C solenoid causing reverse and first to engage at the same time. Nothing intermittent about that. It was immediate and broke until we chased it down. Pressure switch manifold(the thing you replaced in the pan) and harness and then finally the solenoid.
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We did replace it and there were some hardened wires. It ultimately it was the C solenoid causing reverse and first to engage at the same time. Nothing intermittent about that. It was immediate and broke until we chased it down. Pressure switch manifold(the thing you replaced in the pan) and harness and then finally the solenoid.
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Ya, I'm eyeballing that harness to be sure
Putting together my action plan.
TCM due in today
Cleaning of the wiring connections and coating with die-electric grease is the next step that I'll perform along with the TCM schneegans
If that does not do the trick, then the pan comes back off and the neutral position switch thing a-ma-jig along with some testing is next.
That requires me to pull the valve body
(Read: Transmission fluid shower)
If I have to go that far, am contemplating adding in a transgo kit
And as a BTW, Motor Ops sent me the files to flash the new TCM again, for free. Great people up there in Canada!
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Color me paranoid but I’m wondering if the TCM tuning contributes to TCM failure. That’s why I never reinstalled mine.
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Color me paranoid but I’m wondering if the TCM tuning contributes to TCM failure. That’s why I never reinstalled mine.
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I can't see how that is possible. TCM is solid state
Like saying watching the democratic presidential debates caused your tv to fail.
I haven't heard of any such thing...anyone out there?
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There's plenty of cases of tuning causing a "bricked" computer, but that usually happens when flashing, not after running it problem free for awhile.
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I thought the LMLs didn’t need the TransGo because they were already built mo-better?
Edit: from the man himself
https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/transmission-shop/274898-transgo-jr-lml.html#/topics/274898
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190807/fa1791049e498cfaf7dff1073b193e9d.jpg)
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hmmm
Not like the democratic presidential candidates debate then...
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I want to see what MikeL response is about the trans tuning. He told me it would void his warranty on my truck
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OK, not my best wek for vehicles
Truck was supposed to be fixed today, but something interesting happened
And the Burb is still down, awaiting Black Bear to complete the tuning, but that will likely take a week or two longer...Whew!!!
So, I had a local gentleman come over to the house to flash the GM code into the TCM I just purchased. While he was updating his computer to enable him to reflash, the GM site where he was updating went down. I have to think it happened this way for a reason. He called, and GM said they just had a hard failure and couldn't give him a time when he would be able to download.
So that cooked our goose on being able to reflash today. During the ensuing conversation, he asked me all about my symptoms, and obviously knew quite a bit. He told me he had been doing this for many years and almost never was the TCM. He did say, that most of the time it was the wiring harness, and particularly, the internal wiring harness inside the pan. He suggested I replace that first ahd see if my ailments were cured, so that's what I'm going to do next.
I just ordered a new Allison harness which looks to be the right one. I shared pics of mine with a shop in Michigan and the trans guy there said, "Yep, we have the right one, which was sitting on his desk after he opened the box to inspect. Should be here this week, so the saga continues.
And my new book, "How to spend your summer when all your vehicles are broken down" should hit the shelves in time for Christmas! :-(
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So what does that leave you driving Don? The Jeep? Or do you have some other nondescript vehicle you are afraid (I mean too cautious)to share details of?
Sorry to hear about the vehicle trouble. But when they are running right, all of their will seem like a bad dream(I hope)
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It’s the ‘tuck... he’s probably rolling around on the lawn mower.
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It’s the ‘tuck... he’s probably rolling around on the lawn mower.
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ROFLMAO! :beercheers: :popcorn:
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You have to remember, things are different in the Tuck. Yeah, it’s a “lawn mower”, but it’s not California CARB compliant.
I saw don on his way to the store.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/7055381982b179696915ec302361286b.jpg)
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I like that ^^^^^^
Naw no jeep for you, sez the wife!
I'm walking, that's about it.
No place I really need to get to, would have liked to been down at the farm to knock out that pond though.
It's all good. No one is shooting at me, no dogs blowing up anywhere, no R2D2 units moving about...I'm good
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Where is the two wheel machine?
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He quietly disposed of those last year.
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I like that ^^^^^^
I dare you
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:popcorn:
Those are awesome!
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I got the internal transmission harness in today from "Dirty Hooker Diesel" in MI.
Planning to install it today, I took off in the truck to pick up the requisite 3 gallons of Dexi VI.
I didn't get very far, like two miles when it dropped into limp mode. Trans was shifting perfectly, no slipping, and trans temp remained very low at 124F
So. plan B is to have the wife pick up some fluid on her way home from work. But, we have a football game to attend tonight and another 70 miles away tomorrow (Read: half a day or more). So Not too sure when I can get to it.
Codes this time:
P0700 something wrong with transmission
P0708 TCM or related problem such as wiring
P0673 #3 glow plug
P150C - Transmission Control Module Engine Speed Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect 0 Comments | Add Comment Possible causes Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM) Transmission Control Module (TCM) harness is open or shorted Transmission Control Module (TCM) circuit poor electrical connection
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I got the internal transmission harness in today from "Dirty Hooker Diesel" in MI.
Planning to install it today, I took off in the truck to pick up the requisite 3 gallons of Dexi VI.
I didn't get very far, like two miles when it dropped into limp mode. Trans was shifting perfectly, no slipping, and trans temp remained very low at 124F
So. plan B is to have the wife pick up some fluid on her way home from work. But, we have a football game to attend tonight and another 70 miles away tomorrow (Read: half a day or more). So Not too sure when I can get to it.
Codes this time:
P0700 something wrong with transmission
P0708 TCM or related problem such as wiring
P0673 #3 glow plug
P150C - Transmission Control Module Engine Speed Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect 0 Comments | Add Comment Possible causes Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM) Transmission Control Module (TCM) harness is open or shorted Transmission Control Module (TCM) circuit poor electrical connection
Careful with that language “dirty hooker” a guy Dave will be here shortly and no telling what response he will have..... :evil:
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Did somebody say “dirty hooker”? Oh, you’re looking for the other Dave. ;)
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I checked Identifix to see what guys were doing to fix the p0708 code and most are replacing the TCM. ..but some are finding fluid or corrosion in the trans connector, bad internal harness, internal mode switch, and a few with external harness rubbing issues.
There's a tsb on the harness rubbing the left upper a-arm and/or the intercooler pipe near there (see pic). One guy had it rubbing farther back by the cab mount. Some had corroded or loose connectors above... where the trans harness hooks into main harness (by a/c compressor I think).
The p150c code usually causes a no start according to what I read (camshaft sensor) so to see those unrelated codes together makes me think there's a harness issue up top somewhere.
Second pic is just what guys found with only the p0708 code.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/e1b3b9142232dec9f434fe1e3db80453.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/8bdebe949fbf4f4115b8b3b0947b06aa.jpg)
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I would never jump to any conclusions or say anything with out couth
Not sure what other Dave you might be thinking of
Besides I have overwatch on everything I post
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On every recommended test for that code, the tech mentioned that the harness often rubs through on the bellhousing area but I didn't see where a single shop found that issue.
Test #1:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/08c28eaff5994c2107eb8bdb4e6a0b51.jpg)
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Did you already replace the TCM Don?
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Thanks Ken
Note: So good to have knowledgeable veterans of stuff on here! I am really appreciative!!
Tex: No, I have not replaced the TCM, but I may, depending on what happens today, the internal harness replacement day.
It is sitting here in reserve. From my research the bulk of the wiring problems seems to be #1: the internal harness has failed in some way
#2: the pins have become corroded at the connector to the TCM.
I think we can just assume the internal harness is either bad or at its life time limits, so replacing that just seems to make sense. Another side benefit is that the trans will get a good flush. I already drained and replaced 3 gal of fluid, and am about to do it again. That means most of the fluid remaining trapped in the torque converter during change one will be highly diluted and when I drain it again will nearly constitute a complete fluid change.
So on to the ever expanding oil slick that I am about to recreate!
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so what is the exact fluid required for the allison 1000s? i saw you said dex VI but i thought it was trans synd? the actual allison fluid..?
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so what is the exact fluid required for the allison 1000s? i saw you said dex VI but i thought it was trans synd? the actual allison fluid..?
Transyn, the Allison produced fluid is the stuff Allison produces and is more or less the same as Dexi VI. The Allison transmission as delivered in GM applications is filled with Dexi VI from the factory.
People who change over to Trans Syn are fine and that is arguably the very best fluid there is for this trans, however only by the tinny weeniest margin if at all.
I read a great write-up on the Dexi-6. Before Dex-6 any fluid meeting the lubrication specification of say, dex-3 could be labeled/marketed/sold as Dex-3. However with the advent of Dex6, which is synthetic, Gm mandates that the chemistry has to be identical, not just the performance parameters. This makes all Dex-6 essentially the same, with the same exact DNA. That is very interesting because it means that if I were to purchase the O'Reillys Dex-6 for $27 a gallon, it is chemically the exact same as the spendy valvoline Dex-6 for $60 a gallon...No difference. Whereas before buying a premium Dex-3 or Merc or whatever meant you were purchasing premium oil base stock and the best additives. Now it's all the same.
Trans-syn is not Dex-6, but what Allison uses in fleet other than GM trans servicing. It doesn't perform any longer, to any higher temp, resist corrosion or taste any different than the Dex-6 stuff
Save your $$$...
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...will nearly constitute a complete fluid change.
Uh oh. Here we go.
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I still say TCM. Thousands of trucks with 20 plus years on the same wiring harness.
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I still say TCM. Thousands of trucks with 20 plus years on the same wiring harness.
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And thousands of them with the harnesses having been replaced
Its academic
At the moment it is replaced, although I had a misalignment on the shift valve pin and need to pull the valve body out again...in the morning...
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Sell it!! Buy a ford!
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Don. Friendly wager?
If it’s not the TCM I’ll donate $100 to the RMTW website fund
If it is...I’ll buy the steaks at the fall get together at the farm.
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Don. Friendly wager?
If it’s not the TCM I’ll donate $100 to the RMTW website fund
If it is...I’ll buy the steaks at the fall get together at the farm.
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Heck of a wager! What is this fall get together you speak of? We’re headed that direction-ish next month.
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Don. Friendly wager?
If it’s not the TCM I’ll donate $100 to the RMTW website fund
If it is...I’ll buy the steaks at the fall get together at the farm.
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;-)
We're about to find out. Pouring the new fluid in in a few minutes.
But, the old harness was defective!
Ha!
Had trans fluid seeping out into the pins and loom outside the trans. I'll post up pics after I test drive it.
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Don. Friendly wager?
If it’s not the TCM I’ll donate $100 to the RMTW website fund
If it is...I’ll buy the steaks at the fall get together at the farm.
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Heck of a wager! What is this fall get together you speak of? We’re headed that direction-ish next month.
Tex, and well, just about everyone (including mee) wants to do a real man get together someday at my farm.
I dream of the day we do that. It's about ready...bit messy, but will serve as a rural gatherin' place for men to meet, fellowship, pray, share, have fun, eat, shoot, run some heavy equipment.
And when we do this, everyone gets to cut up some log on the saw mill of a tree from my place and take it home.
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you had me at running a sawmill..
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My fees for running your heavy equipment for you are a bit steep....lol
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Sounds like fun. What do we get to run over when operating said machinery? Do we need to bring our own cameras and chainsaws?
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Sounds like fun. What do we get to run over when operating said machinery? Do we need to bring our own cameras and chainsaws?
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Funny guy...
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OK, continuing, and I have a lot of information in this post
Here is the Allison transmission electrical harness bulkhead connection
You may take note of the orange color at the bottom
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The inside of the connector shows that fluid has been seeping out through the wiring into the connector. This is evidence of a failure of the harness at this point to contain fluid. Now whether or not that will affect electrical operation is in question
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So, the exercise here today is to replace the internal Allison wiring harness. There are lots of problems with these apparently with them shorting and becoming brittle.
The pan off again with the harness exposed
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And here is the new GM replacement harness
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The harness is disconnected in this shot, but to remove it, you must first drop the valve body.
Now do some research on this topic, as you do not have to remove all of those 8mm bolts. Six in the back, five in the right front, and four in the left front
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The oil, the valve body, the internal surfaces, even the case is very clean. This is after 105,000 miles and quite a bit of towing
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Here is a side by side of old and new, and the new harness bulkhead fitting just installed
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Harness is plugged up
I had installed the valve body without first making sure the gear selector valve guide pin was slid into the slot in the shift mechanism.
That caused me to have to take everything apart a second time when i discovered the shifter didn't work
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And for archival reasons, here are closeups of the old harness part numbers
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And here is the second time I removed the valve body to closely inspect it to determine if my mis-install damaged anything. I dodged a big one, it was just fine
Pics showing that gear selector valve pin that needs to engage the mechanical shift internal linkage
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I saved the fluid that I drained which was new and poured it back in, checked operating levels, then took off on a test drive.
That test drive lasted about 15 feet out of the garage when I got a shift inhibited message, a flashing line under the gear I selected and zero movement.
Seems I am not done with all this
So I pulled the codes and whoa! Got a bunch of them.
They seem to point to something master and electrical, and controlling...something like either a bar wiring harness or bad TCM
Here's what I got:
0658 Actuator voltage "A" circuit low
0701 Trans system control range/performance
0708 Trans range sensor "A" circuit high
0712 Trans fluid temp sensor "A" circuit low
0716 Input turbine speed sensor "A" circuit range/performance
071A Trans mode switch "A" circuit
0757 Shift solenoid "B" stuck on
0842 Trans fluid pressure sensor/switch "A" circuit low
0847 Trans fluid pressure sensor/switch "B" circuit low
0872 Trans fluid pressure sensor/switch "C" circuit low
0877 Trans fluid pressure sensor/switch "D" circuit low
2669 Actuator supply voltage "B" circuit open
2670 Actuator supply voltage "B" circuit low
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The next step???
Replace the TCM
We'll see if you're right, Tex
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Oh and when I cleared the DTC's with the engine idling, it jumped into high idle mode then starting skipping every once in awhile. The dash beneath the gear I selected started flashing and I got a "Shift inhibited" message again.
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Don, not questioning your ability, but you sure you got that main connector snapped all the way together? Weird you would end up with that many codes after the repair, unless you have a bad wire in the area of the connection. I would pull on each wire to see if any feel stretchy.
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As much as I would like to be right, I’m with Ken. Too much all at once. Has to be something amiss with the harness job.
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Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes or did you?
So maybe the harness was OK but leaking a little and the TCM was bad all along? But why all the new codes now?
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Don, not questioning your ability, but you sure you got that main connector snapped all the way together? Weird you would end up with that many codes after the repair, unless you have a bad wire in the area of the connection. I would pull on each wire to see if any feel stretchy.
Ken, don't worry about hurting anybody's feelings
If you have a good point to make, please make it
So, yes, I got a good solid push/stop when I connected the two. I could give it another push to see, though.
This is what it looked like when i first started this adventure. The codes were endless and all over the place, like everything was going wrong all at the same time.
Think TCM change is warranted?
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New harness, same codes seems to point to the TCM or another harness.
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OK, so I crawled under it and checked the transmission connection. It felt to be tight
I shoved it in some just to be sure and slid back the electrical tape. The wires in that bundle seem to be all fused together. Not melted but as if they were glued together from the manufacturer. The cable was gooey with dissolved tape adhesive and transmission fluid.
Afterward I took it on what turned out to be a nearly 30 min test drive. Everything seemed completely normal and no CEL. Then after coming to a stop and acclerating onto a road, the transmission would not upshift out of 1st. So I drove it a short distance, pulled off the road and shifted to neutral. I noted trans temp to be 184F. Shifting back into drive the CEL illuminated and the trans went into limp mode (Thank Heaven!) and so I drove it home that way. Along the way the speedometer began to jump about around 10-15 mph fluctuations and the trans temp turned into just dashed lines.
Before I got home the speedo settled down and the trans showed temp again in the mid 190's.
It threw codes:
0700 which is a TCM command to the ECM to show a code which illuminated the CEL
0708 Trans Range sensor "A" circuit high.
TCM?? Bad wiring?? Speed sensor??
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New harness, same codes seems to point to the TCM or another harness.
Ya, maybe...I have a TCM, just cost me $150 to have it flashed...
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When my speed sensor went bad it would not come out of first gear
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Those wires being "glued" together is troubling. The trans fluid melted them together, not normal. I wouldn't change the TCM until that's investigated farther. To do so would put the TCM at risk from a possible short in that bundle of gunk.
It is definitely possible that it has multiple issues, all started by the faulty harness you replaced .
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Those wires being "glued" together is troubling. The trans fluid melted them together, not normal. I wouldn't change the TCM until that's investigated farther. To do so would put the TCM at risk from a possible short in that bundle of gunk.
It is definitely possible that it has multiple issues, all started by the faulty harness you replaced .
OK, so the wires sticking together is not normal, hmmm
I don't know exactly how to look at that. An old adhesive, like the glue from the tape could and probably did migrate all over the place on that harness, but the individual wires insulation seems intact and in good shape.
So, thinking out loud here, I wonder what I could do to investigate further...
I guess I could cut away some of the tape wrap and see if the wires are easily separated. Don't know what else I could do...
Thinking about what happened yesterday when it was stuck in 1st gear. It didn't really throw any codes for that. And the bouncing speedometer, no codes were generated from that either. So is something wrong with the BIT function or the reporting of the faults...Like a defective TCM?
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OK, so I dug into the harness some, went back maybe 12 inches. The whole thing seems to be stuck together, although nearer to the plug and bottom the wires seem more compressed. When I started to pull tow wires lose from the bundle, they were sticking so well as to start to peel the insulation outer layer, so I stopped right there
I can't even imagine having to replace that harness, heck it goes all over the place!
Is there a repair "end" or connector sold that can be soldered into the existing harness?
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I would think some pin testing for continuity and or signal would be the next logical step
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Ken, I found these connector repair kits
Thing is, they say they fit 4l80E and allison 1000
One states it is for 93 and later 4l65E and Allison 1000 along with others
Question, is the trans connector some sort of standard thing between different families of transmissions in the GM line?
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Did you ever get the burb back and is it fully operational yet?
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Part of me wants you to just replace the module since you already bought it...but...
I'm going off of the fact that you had a hundred codes after you replaced the internal harness, then you messed with the connection and ended up with the original code (708), so yeah, I would trim the tape back a couple inches and separate each wire just to eliminate that. Then follow the harness up to the other known areas of rubbing (a-arm, etc). If all good, replace TCM.
I've been bit a few times when replacing modules, even when they're the most likely culprit. If you're truck was in my shop I would have already ohmed all the trans wiring and checked for rubbing, especially on a modded truck, even after seeing how many shops replaced the TCM, in the info I posted earlier.... About 50 tcms to like 5 harness issues.
Call me gun shy.
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Dang Tapatalk didn't show you're updated post.
I've never replaced an Ally connector Don... couldn't tell you if they interchange or not.
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Dang Tapatalk didn't show you're updated post.
I've never replaced an Ally connector Don... couldn't tell you if they interchange or not.
Well, since you are unsure about those wires seemingly glued together, I am on the fence about the viability of the connector.
So, I was wondering if perhaps the factory did something like seal the wires together into a sort of cable based on what they learned with the 5-speed harness problems. Perhaps this is completely normal...??? Anyone else ever check the harness near the trans connector? Is it normal that the wires are stuck together, almost vulcanized into a solid mass...Normal or a failure?
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Did you ever get the burb back and is it fully operational yet?
I have had the burb back for nearly two weeks. I am waiting for the final tune to come in from BlackBear Performance. The fans do not turn on since that was never turned on in the first tune, so the thing overheats quickly if I drive it...
About ready to get a rental car!
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Thinking out loud here
I don't think the transmission fluid melted the wiring insulation. If that were the case then how do wires inside the trans oil pan keep from melting? Are they made from some different material?
Well, I just examined that internal harness when i installed it and it seems just like the wires you find all over the truck.
Another thought. Ken said he has never replaced one of these ally connectors, and Ken gets to see a good cross section of vehicles with problems. So if it were happening that these wires could somehow melt together, then wouldn't that problem have shown up somewhere along the line?
Looking at the harness, it actually looks to be in new like condition. It is not rubbing anywhere or chaffing or stretched or anything.
I think what I'll do is to pull the connector off again, clean the heck out of it, reinstall with some more dielectric grease and get the new TCM installed and flashed.
Unless someone can come up with something I may be overlooking before all that happens...
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Muffler bearings, have you checked the Muffler bearings yet?
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I'm not unsure about the gooped up connector.... that's not normal. The internal wires have a different insulation, similar to plastic.
I was unsure whether the Ally connector was the same as the 4l80, or whatever one you mentioned.
This is mine:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/c78ff2c8dbce75b3dffa0e37026d4cda.jpg)
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I'm not unsure about the gooped up connector.... that's not normal. The internal wires have a different insulation, similar to plastic.
I was unsure whether the Ally connector was the same as the 4l80, or whatever one you mentioned.
This is mine:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/c78ff2c8dbce75b3dffa0e37026d4cda.jpg)
Thanks for posting the pic. BTW mine looks exactly the same, minus the dirt, and the place the bundle is stuck together is located about an inch or two back from the edge of the tape. On my bundle, the tape slid back because it was gooey revealing the connected wires.
From what I have found so far, the ally connector is the same one used on the 4l80/4l65 and others post 1993
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Time to get the pre rangers to help. Disconnect both ends of the harness and run a continuity check with an VOM as a first pass. Make sure you aren’t getting cross over by checking continuity on the wire you are testing and all the others. You should have 0 resistance on the wire you are testing and an open condition on all the others.
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Don, what are you driving?
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https://giphy.com/gifs/wheelchair-robotic-W0F5fhjd1fkLm
This? :popcorn:
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Fitting!!! :likebutton:
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https://giphy.com/gifs/wheelchair-robotic-W0F5fhjd1fkLm
This? :popcorn:
Wrong, that’s operational......
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https://giphy.com/gifs/wheelchair-robotic-W0F5fhjd1fkLm
This? :popcorn:
Wrong, that’s operational......
well so were the two wheeled units he got rid of quietly...….. maybe he traded?
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Breaks what he owns, sells what run, builds seem to never quite get finished, plus he is awful quiet right now.
Course I have a couple unfinished too!
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So to keep from junking up the other thread, whats the latest on getting this completed?
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So to keep from junking up the other thread, whats the latest on getting this completed?
Yea, so yesterday I finally found what I think is a great little KY family owned shop to repair the truck
Up to this point I had spoken with a number of people who to summarize, either I did not trust or click with or just didn't deliver on their word. I decided it was better to not drive than to just throw money at the thing and have some goober screw it up even more. I have waited quite a long time, but I am patient, and the Lord has provided for all my transportation needs along the way.
This shop is now managed by the granddaughter of the man who opened it well over 40 years ago! I learned about them at church when the conversation came up, "So, Don, where's the big truck...haven't seen it." The Marine I was talking to had his transmission rebuilt by them and they had stood behind it fixing a subsequent issue as well for free.
I drove over and talked with them. They wanted to do a full diagnostic before even accepting the job (For no cost) and the "New guy" Jeremy who was their transmission builder later told me he had been working there for 20 years but a lot of the mechanics had been there even longer.
While we had the code reader hooked up, we watched codes populate, then disappear, then appear later on. Jeremy thought that was strange and had only seen that a time or two before, and it had been a TCM replacement that cured everything. So, it is queue there to get fixed, so I'll patiently await his findings.
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Breaks what he owns, sells what run, builds seem to never quite get finished, plus he is awful quiet right now.
Course I have a couple unfinished too!
I'm working on that JR
Hopefully closing the chapter on the Burb, and should have this repaired soon...
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Can't say I'm better sometimes, but had to jib you a little. I mean, its for the forum!
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Can't say I'm better sometimes, but had to jib you a little. I mean, its for the forum!
No foul, no harm
CM
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Update from the shop. They think it is a bad TCM. They are scheduling the flashing procedure for the new unit, so i should have it done PDQ!
Oh and on the wiring harness being "Stuck" together. Jeremy said that was due to the trans fluid seeping into the bundle and with heat and time, causing a softening of the outer layer of the vinyl sheathing. He said it isn't melted as much as just stuck together, and he thought it was fine.
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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Update from the shop. They think it is a bad TCM. They are scheduling the flashing procedure for the new unit, so i should have it done PDQ!
Oh and on the wiring harness being "Stuck" together. Jeremy said that was due to the trans fluid seeping into the bundle and with heat and time, causing a softening of the outer layer of the vinyl sheathing. He said it isn't melted as much as just stuck together, and he thought it was fine.
kinda like Styrofoam and brake cleaner?
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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A wise man might hold that comment until after the repair.
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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A wise man might hold that comment until after the repair.
that needs a different 3 letter word instead of man......just saying!
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Did I hear what I thought I heard? The boss claims all of the vehicles will be running on their own power and all the fluid changes will be complete? HH6 better hide that Jeep and quick.... :popcorn:
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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Think I may have echoed that as well? LMLs are notorious for this.
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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A wise man might hold that comment until after the repair.
Anyone can talk smack after the solution is confirmed. I like to fly without a net.
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Did I hear what I thought I heard? The boss claims all of the vehicles will be running on their own power and all the fluid changes will be complete? HH6 better hide that Jeep and quick.... :popcorn:
So funny!
Was just on the phone with Duane...He was trying to talk me into buying the M.R.S a new conveyance and gettin' to modifyin' the heep!
(I just hope this wasn't a word of confirmation!!! :-()
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I don’t have an “I told you so” bone in my body....jus sayin.
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Think I may have echoed that as well? LMLs are notorious for this.
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And meeee 2
Youall or yawal or however that is spealed... You folkses may recall I purchased a new TCM, then tried to get it installed, but the guy who flashes computers refused to flash mine for fear of damagin' other pieces/partses.
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Don't you have a tuned TCM anyway, or do you need a stock tune to start?
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Don't you have a tuned TCM anyway, or do you need a stock tune to start?
The way it works is to first replace the defective TCM with a new unit
Then flash that with the stock GM calibration
Finally reflash with the Motor-Ops enhanced programming to complete the repair.
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As I mentioned, I never went back to the tuned TCM once I replaced mine. Maybe paranoia but at least install the stock tune and drive for a while and make sure its acting correctly before flashing again
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As I mentioned, I never went back to the tuned TCM once I replaced mine. Maybe paranoia but at least install the stock tune and drive for a while and make sure its acting correctly before flashing again
I could do that, heck I almost never use any pedal, just grand paw the thing around
I think I'll call Motor Ops to see if they have had any similar issues/complaints
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Its fixed!
It was the TCM
How about that!
Afterward they drove it 50 miles in different conditions and it did not act up at all
Now if I can just find a minute to go pick it up!
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Sweet, out the kids truck and rentals!
Mine is tuned, does a little skip going 3-4 sometimes like the TC unlocks. Will get it adjusted when lift goes on.
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Yee haww! Finally some good news.
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A project finished!
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Glad to hear Don.
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:likebutton:
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Something broke in the front end of my truck!!!!!!!!!
I was in a parking lot near the mall (No kidding). I cut the corner too hard and ran into a mulch bed, one with concrete curbing all around.
Yea, a mulch bed!!!
When I hit the curb, I heard a loud bang, then my right front tire started scrubbing the inner fender.
It has been raining and cold and I haven't pulled it in yet, but the right suspension is resting firmly on the rubber bump stops. Odd thing is, I can't see anything broken. Back in my tanker days, I have broken a torsion bar or three and they made that same loud bang when they let go. I half expect that is what I may find, but I just don't know yet. Get on it tomorrow...
I wonder if the T-bar could have rotated in its socket???
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So you’re saying us DOT’s have been right all along about them mulch beds? :facepalm:
Sorry, couldn’t resist myself. Hope it’s an easy fix.
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Ball joint
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Ball joint
I thought so, but it looks OK from just staring at it.
Tomorrow I'll get it up in the air and play around and figure it out
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Anything look amiss here?
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I checked everything. Ball joints, bolts, layered dirt and dust...All looked to be normal
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And then I got to the torsion bar key
Notice anything?????
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The key is resting on the top of the "Nut" with no bolt threads showing!
The bolt almost screwed out by hand, the top of it broke right off!
Bingo, found the culprit, a broken bolt!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, I'm hard on everything else, I guess it translates to the truck as well...
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I tried to install a non standard bolt from the "Bolt bin", but no Ci-Gar!
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So, I just opened my Amazon account and got a new GM bolt coming my way
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Oh, BTW, the tires are still spectacular, really surprised just how good and smooth they are. Drove home at 70 in the rain with a goobered suspension and had no issues whatsoever. Loving these cheapo tires!
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Anything look amiss here?
Looks like ol lighting McQueen from the movie cars
(https://media2.giphy.com/media/WApIcl7whuH3W/giphy.gif)
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KaChow!
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At least it was simple and caused little if any damage.
These things are hard on upper joints, good time to check or just replace (simple 1/2 bolt in)
What brand beads you using?
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that is just crazy!!!
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Never heard of that, ever. Must be a mulch thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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At least it was simple and caused little if any damage.
These things are hard on upper joints, good time to check or just replace (simple 1/2 bolt in)
What brand beads you using?
Beads??
I don't know the brand JR, but I do use them in lieu of "toss em off" clamp on weights
I get my tires changed at a truck shop. The boys there and "Sarge, aka "Too-Tall" supply all the beadage and related stuff. I just let em do their thing...
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I installed the new GM torsion bar adjuster bolt. I greased it then adjusted the suspension to the desired height. It took me all of a couple minutes...Easy-Peasy
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No real damage at least, but 7 days for a bolt? Or has it been fixed for a few already?
Looks a tad beefier?
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No real damage at least, but 7 days for a bolt? Or has it been fixed for a few already?
Looks a tad beefier?
Its been fixed for awhile, just updating
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Darn mulch,,,,,,,,
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Maintenance day...I thought
I started with trying to reprogram my TCM with my motor-ops transmission performance programming. I've been driving around with the stock GM slush-bucket shifting since getting the new CM last year.
So I tried to reprogram the new TCM with my autocal. It isn't working.
I keep getting a $053E code which is a security stop when vins and serial numbers do not match up. I had to purchase a new lisence from EFI Live and even with that, no Ci-Gar.
I've tried everything but immersion in holy water so far
Ideas??
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Take it to nick.....?!
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Take it to nick.....?!
He won't do diesels
He can't deal with the types of personalities in that crowd...
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Take it to nick.....?!
He won't do diesels
He can't deal with the types of personalities in that crowd...
:popcorn:
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Cummins swap it? :evil:
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Put it back to stock lol
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I didn't realize you could do a full flash with an autocal... thought it just changed the factory programming that has to be flashed in first.
..but pretty sure we discussed this before and I was wrong?..not sure.. can't remember
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I didn't realize you could do a full flash with an autocal... thought it just changed the factory programming that has to be flashed in first.
..but pretty sure we discussed this before and I was wrong?..not sure.. can't remember
Yes, it will do a complete reflash
So we solved the mystery. They just sent me a file with the vin removed and it flashed right in.
I went a little crazy on the truck today. Did the reflash, changed the oil and filter, and had a leaking amsoil remote dual filter block adapter. A couple of new O'Rings and that was fixed.
Next I pressure washed the undercarriage, inside the fender wells, the entire outside and sprayed a little in the engine compartment.
Then I hand washed it, then buffed and waxed the whole thing.
I detailed the interior and fixed some small things inside the cab. All in all it took all day long!
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So it shifts ok now?
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Cleaned it up a little and rotated the tires.
These Federal Couriga 37's are doing a good job for me. Wear is good, noise is still low. Little to no vibration and overall other than a stiffer ride from the 10 ply rating, they are effective.
I pressure washed the undercarriage and serviced the brakes. The pads are still in great shape despite having 110,000 miles on them.
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And just look how well that cheapo HF bed liner spray is holding up. Now two years old!
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Holding up a heck of a lot better than the Raptor liner I used.
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Holding up a heck of a lot better than the Raptor liner I used.
I'm amazed too!
All I've done is to wipe it with armor-all every once in awhile
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Truck refused to start today!
First time ever
Got to fussing around and went to drain the fuel H2O filter
Fass unit sounded funny, and filter just dribbled
Lookin' at the filters I couldn't recall which year I changed those...Hmmm
Quick ride over to O Reillys to pick up two new WIX units which I screwed into place.
Ran the pump some, then cranked for 20 seconds and the engine fired
End of problem
Moral of the story: When your fuel filters are rusting and covered in mud and you can't remember when you last changed them and your truck suddenly will no longer start, change the filters
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Sound advice right there I think
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I just change mine with the DIC timer. I do date them though, glad nothing serious though.
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That sure could have been worse. Glad it wasn't.
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Still at it as I approach my tenth year of ownership. I buffed the thing some time ago and somehow removed a coating on the plastic headlights. I just decided to replace them to keep it looking good
While I was at it, I pulled the HID low beams out again, since they had started to flash signalling impending trouble
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I had a SES light on which decoded as #3 and #6 glow plugs malfunctioning. Considering I am at the cusp of winter, I decided to replace all eight. First the wheel well liner comes out:
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The right side is easy and took about an hour total to R&R and button back up
I used anti seize on everything from the threads to the probe and even my ear where I had a sudden itch which I remedied before realizing I had a finger full of anti-seize. The stuff worked and my finger did not get stuck! ;-))
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While all that was opened up to sunlight, I wiped everything down and coated it with the cavity sealer (Cosmoline)
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The right is easy, the left is not. I had to loosen up the steering shaft and the intercooler pipe to gain full access, but in good time the old parts fell to my aggravation and found their way onto the concrete floor.
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I was unhappy with my bowtie, so it is off for some changin' up
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I have replaced 3 glowplugs so far as they fail. I use the same copper AS.
My cheapo headlight housings need replacing too. Not happy with the pattern but not paying $250ea for new ones!
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Man, it just never stops. Today the anti-lock warning light came on along with the traction control warning light. The DIC displays a message "Service Trailer brake, along with a couple more messages.
Darn, I'd like to keep from buying new if I can help it!
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The trailer light one jumps on my truck from time to time. Never figured out what it is.
The other is just ball joints. That’s easy street!
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Ball joints?
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Don’t take the bait boys, Don is throwing chaff hoping to get us off the trail...he’s really angling for a 75K new truck....
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That would mean another fluid change. Who can run a stock vehicle here?
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Sorry wheel bearings
I got a box and was excited
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/cdf0ff8820628bcb0979274e93381da6.jpg)
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Me. 2-1/2 years on the denali gasser and its totally stock. 25k on the clock.
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Sorry wheel bearings
I got a box and was excited
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/cdf0ff8820628bcb0979274e93381da6.jpg)
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Sure looks like Pmags
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Don’t take the bait boys, Don is throwing chaff hoping to get us off the trail...he’s really angling for a 75K new truck....
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I certainly wish that doesn't come to be a factual, real, non-imagined, provable, verifiable, truth
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Me. 2-1/2 years on the denali gasser and its totally stock. 25k on the clock.
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Yea, I have been fighting the urge to pick up a 6.2 Trail boss (While keeping the always used D-Max)(that I have WAAAAY too much invested in to ever sell) (Which I seriously need to keep) (That had better not piss me off at a critical moment of weakness) (Like when I just test drove a new 10 speed D-Max)(Like, well, like I seem to like the new trucks)(But the D-Max which is totally paid for, meaning no payments, but also no warranty)
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I hear you chief. I’m 50k into a 20 year old truck. And today the tailgate latch quit working. But man it rides great with the new bilsteins
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That would mean another fluid change. Who can run a stock vehicle here?
Me, over 3 years, 65k on the clock and completely stock.
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I hear you chief. I’m 50k into a 20 year old truck. And today the tailgate latch quit working. But man it rides great with the new bilsteins
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That tailgate isn’t a bad one to fix, the latch clips are cheap on Amazon and I always just replace the complete handle so the plastic matches.
Your aren’t painted are they?
Yea p mags. I miss ordered and didn’t get the sight window
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That would mean another fluid change. Who can run a stock vehicle here?
My 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee is stock minus Duratracs and a couple of offroad lights mounted by the windshield.
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That would mean another fluid change. Who can run a stock vehicle here?
Me, over 3 years, 65k on the clock and completely stock.
^^^2 things
1. You're smart
2. I'm not
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I hear you chief. I’m 50k into a 20 year old truck. And today the tailgate latch quit working. But man it rides great with the new bilsteins
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Sitting in a new truck is indeed nice. But then again there is a certain charm and feeling you get from driving something you've owned longer than kids in the sixth grade. You just feel comfortable and despite it's obvious aging, you have formed this familiarity with it's irregularities and you and that old truck strike an accord which comes out as a feeling of just being "Right."
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Don. Thinking about it I think it goes deeper. It’s the values my grandfather instilled in me to take pride in what you have and to take care of it meticulously. I notice when I see someone with a well maintained older vehicle and appreciate the pride that goes into it.
It’s like driving through a really poor neighborhood. There are a few people who take pride in their lawn and their home and keep them tidy and neat. And that has nothing to do with money and everything to do with self respect.
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Don. Thinking about it I think it goes deeper. It’s the values my grandfather instilled in me to take pride in what you have and to take care of it meticulously. I notice when I see someone with a well maintained older vehicle and appreciate the pride that goes into it.
It’s like driving through a really poor neighborhood. There are a few people who take pride in their lawn and their home and keep them tidy and neat. And that has nothing to do with money and everything to do with self respect.
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Yea, like that, and so very true
Someone once told me if you want to know something of the character of a man when you first meet, look at his shoes. Well kept usually implies other things in the man's life are as well.
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Man, it just never stops. Today the anti-lock warning light came on along with the traction control warning light. The DIC displays a message "Service Trailer brake, along with a couple more messages.
Darn, I'd like to keep from buying new if I can help it!
I had a trailer brake service light at one time on my 2013. Would lock up trailer brakes at the slightest tap of the brake pedal regardless of the settings. Was bad enough we had to stop in the middle of the road and unplug the trailer plug just to be able to pull into a parking lot.
Replaced the "trailer tow relay" ($30 from rock auto) and have had no more issues since. The relay is located above the spare tire location under the bed. May be worth a look. Cheaper than a new Dmax
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Well, I tried to get started working on the truck today, but my son kept me busy on his "New" 2007 Silverado. When I finally got to it, first thing I noticed was a puddle of radiator fluid on the ground! WTH is going on! This thing decide to just up and quit on me???
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Throw it away Don. Get a new one
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Just let me know where you throw it, I like to recycle other peoples junk. :)
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If this video clip says don’t buy one. I do to know what to tell ya
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1erCpY9LX0
Then go creep the duramax forum for 2020 problems
Sounds like the makings of a GM/Ford 6.0
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Similar to others, we’re almost 3 years 45k into our tacoMa and it’s bone stock.
Also Chief, We are still interested in buying your duramax if you want to buy a new truck. Feel free to call if you get into heavily looking at buying another. We had a conversation last week about wishing we never had sold our 2007 duramax.
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You people!
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When I get the fummins finished you know you’re gunna want one and the price point will be hard to beat too..... :popcorn:
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So today I made big strides. I pulled the radiator reservoir off and installed a new one, then cleaned up the air cleaner, having pulled it, then reset the trouble codes, and just like that it is all back to working properly!
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I yanked everything out
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Cleaned everything up
Air filter element was degreased, washed, re-oiled and reinstalled
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And reinstalled the new radiator reservoir along with all of the air intake system.
I replaced the coolant tank because I had been getting a "Coolant level low" message which this new tank has fixed
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What in the world was growing in that air cleaner? You get tired of Green and hook up a bush hog to the front of that truck!?!
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What in the world was growing in that air cleaner? You get tired of Green and hook up a bush hog to the front of that truck!?!
I too am curious about what that filter looked like under the Pre-filter. That’s pretty nasta!
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Now I don't know what the heck is going on, but my anti lock brake warning light is off along with all the messages, and the traction control light is also no longer illuminated!
Not sure who prayed over the truck to expel the demon, but all those messages including the "service trailer brake" have all gone away.
So, for now I'm good, I think...Well except for that left headlight that went out!!!!!!!!!
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What in the world was growing in that air cleaner? You get tired of Green and hook up a bush hog to the front of that truck!?!
The plastic lid grenaded some time ago so it had been pulling from above as well as from the fender. Looked like a mat of dust. That accumulation on the filter hat was from the underside. I had rotated it to see if anything was down there and discovered the mossy camo stuff.
Dave, the filter was slightly blackened, confirmed by the sooty appearance of the stuff that came out in the wash. It all came out easily though, and the inside of the air piping was as clean as a whistle (Which apparently stays pretty clean)
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Big thing is the issues are gone.
Should have seen mine after the fires around here.
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I need to buy a new intake system for mine. The filter rubber jacks broken down and is disintegrating or sticky to your fingers. It’s a sb intake for stock location. I’d like a new intake box and so forth
Just can’t stomach the cost of a new system!
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I need to buy a new intake system for mine. The filter rubber jacks broken down and is disintegrating or sticky to your fingers. It’s a sb intake for stock location. I’d like a new intake box and so forth
Just can’t stomach the cost of a new system!
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I know what you mean. Plastic lid cracked on mine and (plexiglass) lid impossible to get (I wonder why???)(Not really) and I decided to just keep what I have left and reuse.
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You could probably make a new plexiglass lid for under $5. Just sayin'. ;-)
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I may have another issue, head gasket(s). Not sure.
I was thinking about that puddle on the floor. And when I pulled that little hose off the top of the reservoir it was under some pressure.
I started to read about that and some folks mentioned head gaskets lifting. Since I baby mine, I would doubt it, but maybe??? From what I read the failure occurs at the rear outside corners where the head is super close to that very hot up-pipe. When I was checking it, sure enough that's where the fluid was concentrated. There was a very small leak in the coolant hose above it where I blocked off the feed to the EGR and I may have talked myself into thinking that's where all the fluid came from, but I am not so sure at the moment.
I read where another indication is a super hard upper radiator hose (I suppose from all the pressure inside). Well In checking mine, it is pretty firm, but I would not describe it as super hard.
I guess I'll have to get scientific with it and figure this out.
I would really, really, no, REALLY, hate to have to replace head gaskets...
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Time for oring and twins?
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And dual wheels
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Can’t you put a pressure tester on the system also to see if that is an issue
I also have an idea or dream of testing for exhaust fumes in the Rez tank
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I as well have random leaks.
Both sides. Not regular.
But every now and then I get a low coolant message.
Like you my upper dad hose is firmer than should be in my mind.
I blamed mine on 2006 and 300+K miles.
I have often thought about frost plugs being the culprit.
I however am freshening one of my LBZ’s up and will include headstuds.
Hopefully you don’t have to go that route.
I’ve been adding coolant for probably 8-10 years now though so mine hasn’t been real serious.
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Yea, this one is not serious at all. I've seen vids where the radiator tank is black with carbon. Mine had none. Once a head gasket is blown, it is blown. And I hear that about 90% of the D-Max heads are warped as much as .014" when this happens. I have also learned that this is fairly common in duramax engines
So the cure is to pull the heads and send them off for machining. Head gaskets come in three thicknesses, marked "A" "B" and "C". The "C" gasket is the thickest allowing for machining of the heads to space the valves up a bit further away from the piston crowns. So the heads get pulled and machined, then new head gaskets after a good block sanding of the block surface, then ARP studs torqued to 125 ft/lbs which solves the problem even for higher boost.
Merchant has a kit for $1145.
If I determine that the head gasket(s) is/are the issue then I am at a crossroads.
The anti lock warning light came back on today as did all the other junk.
So, if the gaskets have given up like some RINO republicans then:
1. I sell it or
2. I trade it or
3. I pull it down myself and repair or
4. I stroke the rather large check to have it done...Thinking $3000-$3500 ish
If I do replace this truck, then the next one will remain close to stock and I'll get a dedicated lower optioned one ton single or dual wheel Chevy or Ram.
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Could the antilock simply be a wheel bearing?
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I find it hard to believe that a low mileage LML that hasn’t been beat on has a head gasket issue. So many out there with much higher mileage that have been beat on with no issues.
But hey. I guess it could happen.
3794stg2r while it’s down. you already have the cp3
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Just sell it to Turner, he’ll ship it to Ken to fix and you can go buy a newer one...... :wink:
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I’d like to see the head gaskets done personally. I know that’s the next step in mines future, I’ll take the how to write up,
Plus you sell you’ll loose lots of value invested, you loose the off-road ability the new truck won’t have. The tow pig option can be addressed in other ways cheaper then a new truck
I did have a friend drive back from Tennessee with a new 1 ton Cummins with a lifetime warranty on drivetrain. That was interesting enough!! To think hum. Could I drive a dodge?
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
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I’d like to see the head gaskets done personally. I know that’s the next step in mines future, I’ll take the how to write up,
Plus you sell you’ll loose lots of value invested, you loose the off-road ability the new truck won’t have. The tow pig option can be addressed in other ways cheaper then a new truck
I did have a friend drive back from Tennessee with a new 1 ton Cummins with a lifetime warranty on drivetrain. That was interesting enough!! To think hum. Could I drive a dodge?
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Well, this morning I am leaning toward the massive head gasket job. My idea is to create a DIY write-up for others to follow and document. I am not sure I have a head gasket problem just yet, so all this is speculation. But with the possibility looming up there, contingency plans are apropo'
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
What do you think Ken? My imagination? What should I look for?
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
What do you think Ken? My imagination? What should I look for?
A big C, usually followed by ummins and normally in a Dodge chassis..... :popcorn:
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
What do you think Ken? My imagination? What should I look for?
A big C, usually followed by ummins and normally in a Dodge chassis..... :popcorn:
Funny guy!
Ha Ha
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Just sell it to Turner, he’ll ship it to Ken to fix and you can go buy a newer one...... :wink:
No don’t sell it to me, I don’t want to go through the hassle of licensing it in this stupid state. Neighbor is dealing with that nonsense on his Jeep now, and it only has 35” tires and maybe a 1” lift.
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
What do you think Ken? My imagination? What should I look for?
I think that unless you were towing heavy, daily, and ignoring the egts while on the 200 horse tune, that it's probably not head gaskets. I've whipped on mine pretty hard and not lifted heads yet....yet. LMLs are pretty tough.
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Boy oh boy, somebody sure wants a new truck.
What do you think Ken? My imagination? What should I look for?
A big C, usually followed by ummins and normally in a Dodge chassis..... :popcorn:
Funny guy!
Ha Ha
Heck, you could just add to your Nissan fleet and get another Titan, this time an XD with the Cummins.
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They don't offer it any more!
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OK, so I've investigated this some more.
No additional anti-froze around the corner or anywhere on the head to block mating surface. The upper rad hose was firm but not hard last night and soft this morning. From what I read, the upper hose is usually found to be hard in the morning after the evening's drive (Residual pressure)
But
When I went out to check the thing this morning there was oil all over the floor beneath the engine!!!!!!!
Ya, another problem. but I think I have it traced down to a tiny rubber pipe on the lower left side of the front engine cover. Seems to be really wet around there and aft of that spot. Leaked quite a bit, so I am suspecting a hole in that hose.
Did some research on the anti-lock/ABS light along with the stability control light and message.
When I replaced the glow plugs, I also realigned the steering column. Remember when I had the steering wheel disconnected and spun it up like I was hand propping a Beech 18? Well the steering wheel sensor is probably sending a misalignment message which also affect the systems that have suddenly failed.
Course of action: Going out tomorrow to purchase a medium-good ($300ish) OBDII analyzer. I'll start pulling codes and run them down. I am now on a mission to get this thing back to 100%. It has been shock therapy looking at the prices of new trucks. As scary as lumber prices and the thought of a pedophile and a communist running our great nation!
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I don't think doing the heads are that bad, once you lift the cab off.
Hope its not the head gaskets, but seems always a little something.
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It’s not a Ferd, so the cab can stay.
I don't think it is either based on Kens comments on the tune and riding it hard.
There’s not a lot of room though. Mine will be easier on a stand than Dons will in the frame.
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It’s not a Ferd, so the cab can stay.
I don't think it is either based on Kens comments on the tune and riding it hard.
There’s not a lot of room though. Mine will be easier on a stand than Dons will in the frame.
Yea, for sure
But
I am not so sure anything is wrong other than the newly sprouted oil leak which looks to be a quick fix. I am now thinking some radiator fluid squirted out of the resevoir and splashed against the inner fender then down and opposite onto the head. I am not seeing any additional indications, but who knows???
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Mine out of the blue give a check coolant level.
Then six months goes by.
I’ve got a leak on that dang lower hose clamp I think.
But otherwise same same.
Sometimes a spot.
But nothing consistent.
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Looking at getting new hoses for mine. 200k is a good life and they always go at the worst time. Sam, your worse is worse than mine I bet!
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Picked up some new tires on Black Friday.
Kanati trail hogs load range "E" in 37-12.50R18 to mount up in an effort to get things a bit quieter.
The Federal Couragia's I had on there were still round, in balance and wearing nicely, but now at 50% tread height were starting to sing a bit more loudly during the cruise. Having said that, I would at this point in time rate those Federals as some of the best mud tires I have ever used. All other things being equal, their very low price could make them the overall best.
As is my tradition of replacing the tires at 50%-30% tread life, then sell off the good used rollers. These Kanati trail hogs which use the very familiar goodyear pattern are really nice tires. They ride smoothly in the 37" sizing even though they are a 10 ply rated tire. The road noise is half of what a mud tire delivers and steering and traction is plenty good enough for a truck that sees it's share of dirt and muddy trails but not necessarily the jeepers crowd of rock piles. Myself, I never saw the sense in driving over piles of sharp stones when you can drive around them, or fording deep water when a little searching will find you a spot three inches deep, but that's just me.
So I have to get after this pesky oil drip, then change the black blood and then maybe even get after that pesky headlight. Fun, fun, fun...
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I hope you plan on posting a full side of vehicle photo
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I hope you plan on posting a full side of vehicle photo
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^^^ That's a pic of my Suburban, but essentially the same tire is going on the truck
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I hope you plan on posting a full side of vehicle photo
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^^^ That's a pic of my Suburban, but essentially the same tire is going on the truck
Oops I forgot to read the heading, thought this was the burb page
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Well, I waited long enough for someone else to fix the oil leak the truck suddenly developed, but no one did, so I started poking around.
The culprit that drained nearly a gallon of oil from the motor was this seemingly innocent vent hose for the front gearcase of the engine
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And that little bugger is located in a forest of wires, cables, pipes, spider webs and old dog hair
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The soldier fortunate enough to have this happen to his wheeled carriage will get to remove lots of things including the wheel liner and intercooler piping
Then with some stretching and off angle pullin' you get this little vent pipe off the engine. BTW, the housing cracked some time ago and I just epoxied a pipe into the cracked manassas and the whole thing worked fine right up to the point of hose failure. Evaluating the cause for the failure, I am thinking I have the nipple/pipe a bit too long. I removed about 1/2" for weight savings and reinstalled it along with a ninety water pump hose.
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For special effects I collected a blob of grease just off center on my camera lens. If things look a tad hazy from here on, you're knowing why.
The reassembly was just work and I liked everything except for that intercooler pipe clamp which appears to be slopped on at a weird angle. It is however mounted perpendicular to the pipe, and it's the silicone hose which is making the thing look skewed.
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I think I am settling in on things which are not so exotic or different from stock. In lieu of the dual filter bypass system which always leaked and in lieu of a stock oil filter which I think is too small, I am opting to run the Cat filter which is renowned as a great not-so-little piece
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You simply remove the factory filter mount adapter and install the adapter pipe which secures the much larger Cat filter
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And the install sequence:
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It is a good fit and the color goes well with the spines of Biden supporters
Oh and I canned the oil peacock and replaced it with the supplied new drain plug with a particularly strong N52 Neodymium magnet
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I regreased the entire chassis, then chased down yet another short in the left headlight and finished the day with spraying the inside of the rockers with more Cavity coater (cosmoline)
I did it years ago and sure enough, there is no rust going on except for the small spots on the frame here and there. I painted over them while I was rolling in the dust and dirt beneath this great old truck.
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LML / Donaldson DBL7483 Oil Filter Conversion
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=90745&share_tid=994055&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eduramaxforum%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3Fthreads%2FLML---Donaldson-DBL7483-Oil-Filter-Conversion%2E994055%2F&share_type=t&link_source=app
Good work as always chief. Food for thought
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At least the leak was not in the rear housing! These things are always lots of work for little stuff. Result is a killer truck that really has few issues.
Is there a little smaller oil filter? I think the stock is small also even though I run a bypass.
Dang TRN, I get a massive warning from MS from that link.
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Curious why you pulled the drain valve. Iv liked mine
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Tex, The cat is the same size as the donaldson. I can't comment about the filter media itself, but in the commercial world these Cat filters are legendary.
I think either option would serve one well
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Curious why you pulled the drain valve. Iv liked mine
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Dave, it takes forever to drain the pan from that cute little thing with a 3/16" bore. That and I am demodding the things which really don't do much to help. Back when I was building the truck, I'd replace everything, but now, approaching the 10 year point of ownership, I am shifting stuff to being closer to stock while keeping the stuff that really works.
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I'll take the slow drain with NO mess.
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Set a picket under that hose and drink a whiskey while it runs lol every time
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I'll take the slow drain with NO mess.
:likebutton:
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but now, approaching the 10 year point of ownership, I am shifting stuff to being closer to stock while keeping the stuff that really works.
:likebutton: :likebutton:
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Tex, The cat is the same size as the donaldson. I can't comment about the filter media itself, but in the commercial world these Cat filters are legendary.
I think either option would serve one well
I’m sure you are correct sir. That AlisoBob dude did a pretty thorough review of all oil filters, cutting them open investigating how they were made and the filter media. Thought it might be an interesting read for some. The Donaldson uses the same media as the Amsoil filter but is bigger. I’m going that route when I deplete my stock of EAO52 filters I have on hand.
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I did find it interesting Charles. Thanks for it.
I ditched my amsoil bypass as well.
It would leak a gallon of oil a week when it got cold out. (-30 or better)
I’ll have to see which is easier to source for me.
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I remember that thread getting started. It is good info
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I wouldn't mind have better filtering but like my baypass. I only change it every other oil change.
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I wouldn't mind have better filtering but like my baypass. I only change it every other oil change.
That was another reason I went this route which is much closer to factory configuration. You change the oil, but that AmSoil fiter is keeping nearly three quarts of old oil trapped. I never liked that and would rather use a great dino based oil like the Delvac I have used for years and change filters to remove as much of the old stuff as possible.
Mobil has fleet trucks running a million miles or more on the Delvac stuff and sometimes with much longer change cycles. The stuff works very well, and I use it in the 5.9 Isuzu 6 cyl in my Kobelco, in my John Deere tractor, in my Kubota track loader and used it in the other John Deere tractors which used to break down and create rusty spots at my farm.
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Anyway, just swapped the "old" Federal Couriga's for the new Kanati Trail hogs. I stayed with the 37 12.50R18 sizing, load range E and after a short highway and rural drive, can report they are just wonderful. GONE is the singing of the blocky mud tires, and these new tires are silky smooth. I was loving that about the 37's on the Burb, and it has not changed with the new sizing. I balanced them with glass beads and I replaced the tire pressure sensors with new ones to get all that back to stock as well.
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If you really want to get all the oil out you gotta go banana pan....
The stock has a hump in it that keep 1/2 qt of the nasty.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/banana-pan-replacement-oil-pan
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PPE has one too. Been on my saved list for some time.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07V49X6MH/?coliid=I11PJ1IZHFITN3&colid=1Z3GNP120A3PC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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Cleaned it up some today
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Are you thinking they will give you a better trade in on it for being clean?
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Dealer is going to send it to auction so a person to person sale may net you more? If it’s enough to offset the hassle or tax offset remains to be seen. Looks good chief
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How much you asking for that 10k truck? :tongue:
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Are you thinking they will give you a better trade in on it for being clean?
I am not going to trade it.
I put it up for sale for $42,500, so we'll see where that goes.
I'd rather command a high price to keep the kids off of it. It will take a mature buyer to anty up to that amount
Although I really have a need for a Dually, I am not going to just give this away. I am attached to the thing, so maybe I can't purchase a dually just yet. My wife has put her foot down. I can't buy another truck without getting rid of one first. Presently we have:
2011 Silverado
2007 Silverado Vortec-Max
2020 Nissan Titan
2002 Chevy Suburban
2019 GMC Canyon
Now for some reason she feels we have enough trucks. I cannot agree, but I do like being happy, so I am either selling the Silvy and getting a Dually or not
I do have a plan in the works though. If I can get a good sized barn up down at the farm, well I'll just move the Suburban or the 2500HD down there and keep the new Dually at the house here. He-He...
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/865314334267146
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Sounds like that titan is the only one that’s worthless. Let that one go instead lol
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Sounds like that titan is the only one that’s worthless. Let that one go instead lol
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Mis Kat would take exception to that!
That titan is one of the best trucks I have ever driven. Way underrated in the truck world
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Dually swap the LML...
Kidding. There is someone on the Duramax Forum doing that and I just can’t get behind it... legal stuff and all that.
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Dually swap the LML...
Kidding. There is someone on the Duramax Forum doing that and I just can’t get behind it... legal stuff and all that.
I may have just found a solution:
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Great idea, the only issue with that is the inability to pull your dump trailer with it. Also you are now definately looking at CDL territory as well an the extended length of the entire setup.
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I won't lie, I kinda like the Silverado.
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I won't lie, I kinda like the Silverado.
Do it Bobby do it!! :likebutton: :likebutton:
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We have companies here that use the roll back dumpster idea but they kid for a flatbed. Dump the flat bed off, load skid, mini X or what have you small equipment. Pull it back on the truck and off they go, just a truck like farmerJohns and off to the races. I’ll snap a picture
You can even pull a trailer with it from what I have seen
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Apparently there is a company that makes em also
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210207/8d1a7537068e246df8487914c156f263.jpg)
Becker bros.com
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Dually swap the LML...
Kidding. There is someone on the Duramax Forum doing that and I just can’t get behind it... legal stuff and all that.
I may have just found a solution:
Nate, easy fix on that is removable rear dovetail. Something he can just pin in place (thinking front snow plow type design. When he wants to haul skid loader he backs up to it and then lowers the the dovetail into bottom mounts. Then use a small 12v winch or whatever to spin top up and pin in place.
If you need to tow trailer remove dovetail. Or another option, loads bobcat into trailer and have ramps to go from bed of truck into trailer. Staircase it onto the truck bed.
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I won't lie, I kinda like the Silverado.
Do it Bobby do it!! :likebutton: :likebutton:
I doubt this is being sold like The Price is Right.. so I'm out. Lol
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I like the flatbed idea. Of all those vehicles, you only have have 2 for you right? Whats the issue?
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I’d say pull the shell and give it to the oldest kid and off nix that 6.0
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Great idea, the only issue with that is the inability to pull your dump trailer with it. Also you are now definitely looking at CDL territory as well an the extended length of the entire setup.
Approaching but not there. Owner says the truck weighs in at 9,000. My load would be 13,600. Total of 22,600
Having said that, I would think that truck is more than 9K. Probably more like 12K. Even so I am still well under the magic 30 numba
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Think its 26001?
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Think its 26001?
Oops, I think you're right
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And Nate can chime in, but its not what you are carrying, its what the capacities are. CGVWR the GVWR of both truck and trailer combined must not exceed 26000
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In Nebraska if we have a farm plate on it no CDL required. Maybe not the same there. I know that one time when we were in KY we went to the local coffee shop the old men seen the farm plate on my pickup and informed me that truck can't leave the farm.
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I kept getting a bunch of messages on the DIC.
Trailer brake module inop
Anti lock inop
Stability control off along with the ever present Washer fluid level low!!!!!!!!
So I plugged the scanner into the truck and ran a scan. It came back with "Left front anti lock signal failure" or something like that
I decided to just buy a new sensor and pop it on
Turned out to be a good decision!
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I may very well have routed the cable in the wrong manner. It has clearly rubbed almost in half!
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The wheel bearing had zero play. Everything was in great shape, except for a little scale rust which I removed.
The brake pads were hardly worn at all. Surprising with 117K on the truck and having to WHOA all that weight and 37" tires.
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I couldn't find a Delco cable but this one was identical to stock.
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Next I replaced the factory Bose speakers with my favorite Polk Audio units
Bose does not really make a good stereo for trucks. They really just rent their name to GM. Bose is not in the 12 volt speaker business and it shows. The Polk speakers were night and day different from the Bose units
Oh, and I guess I spaced out any pics of the new speakers...sorree!
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My truck has no rust really, just some staining from untreated bare metal in some trim panels. Never the less, I recoated the door cavities with 3M cavity wax this time. I used a wand kit with a 360 nozzle that emptied the large cans pdq
First inside door pic shows an almost brand new appearance. I am in my 10th year of ownership of this truck...Amazing!
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Anyway, I finished it all up in a jiffy quick.
The audio system is bastardized with a Kenwood double din receiver GPS pushing through the factory Bose amp out to the Polk speakers. It sounds great as it is right now.
That may change as I am modernizing the receiver head to an Alpine unit that will feature all the latest and greatest. I'll use the apple car play over CF's DVD's and the old school organic GPS. The pre-Ranger with the 07 Vortec-Max truck will benefit from my upgrade.
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I was just about to ask about the old setup as I have been looking.
My brakes are grabbing just a tad, but I have 210k on it now, runs great!
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Where did the sale of this truck go? Any bites?
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Where did the sale of this truck go? Any bites?
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I could have sold it for low mid 30's in an hour. Dealer willing to trade it for $33K against a bare bones Ram 3500 dually tradesman retaining for around $60K.
A couple things happened.
I did not want to just get rid of my truck simply to make room for a dually. Wife dug her feet in on getting rid of one to get one.
I wanted to get into land clearing a couple days a week with my machines.
We had a sit down meeting and decided to just concentrate on the farm this year with a couple solid goals of getting a barn in and finishing the pond(s) to get the place ready for production.
With that in mind, I have no need for a dually. In a year or two I can park a truck in the barn and therefore have room for a new dually. I may need a one ton truck if the hauling duties expand. within that two years I pay off the Kubota which is a huge payment, also paving the way for a better purchase of truck-next.
I felt very relieved to realize the Duramax truck could stay. In its 10th year I really enjoy the thing, and its in terrific shape still.
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I think it’s a lifer. Been a good solid platform and since it’s already deleted you skip all of the problems plus the bonus parts and power adders.
One day it’ll be a hey grandpa can I drive that truck?
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I think it’s a lifer. Been a good solid platform and since it’s already deleted you skip all of the problems plus the bonus parts and power adders.
One day it’ll be a hey grandpa can I drive that truck?
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Yea, I'm already getting that.
They sit on my lap and steer away
My youngest pre-ranger calls it "The" truck, not "A" truck...
Its a keeper for sure
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When you get around to the new truck window, consider nixing the Dually and go with the single rear wheel, which will most likely help you stay under the 26,000 lb. range to avoid the CDL issue. My LQ Horsetrailer is at 19,600 gross so I’ve got RV plates on it to minimize the red flags on the road, but yeah, I’m over......it’ll never go through PA - they’re hyper vigilant and $ hungry!
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When you get around to the new truck window, consider nixing the Dually and go with the single rear wheel, which will most likely help you stay under the 26,000 lb. range to avoid the CDL issue. My LQ Horsetrailer is at 19,600 gross so I’ve got RV plates on it to minimize the red flags on the road, but yeah, I’m over......it’ll never go through PA - they’re hyper vigilant and $ hungry!
That is likely a ways off now
But I like the stability of that dually
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I installed the new control head/receiver today.
Out with the old:
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Had sort of a rats nest going on in there.
But its all cleaned up now
Old Kenwood was heavy and large. It took up every square inch of that space. The new Alpine is feather light and has a lot of space for cooling air to circulate.
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Before/After
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Mic went up to the visor, sort of away from the window
Didn't actually snap a pic of that thing, but you get the picture
(Get it...Get the picture...because there isn't one...;-))
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For prosperity sake... a record of the stuff
I flipped through a couple of pages with just the power and ground wires hooked up.
With this Alpine head, the factory Bose amp, and the Polk speakers, it sounds really good. Much better than before
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You should pull all of the
Plastic wood trim and wrap or paint them a color or something.
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Funny you should mention that!
I hate it too
But it's not long to the world
Gonna try this myself
Hydro dipping or water paint transfer...
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Ordered a all in one sub woofer/amp from Crutchfield just now
Now off to Summit to get some dynamat
Make a few more upgrades
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I really need to do this. My dash is so plain and I never use the CD player. Long as I can keep the XM, which I lucked out and bought a lifetime sub when I first got the truck.
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I finished running all the wires today and buttoned it all up.
I ordered a sound ordnance sub woofer making 125 WRMS or whatever that unit of measurement is. Crutchfield makes it themselves. I have actually been a customer of theirs since the early 1990's. I always like how they prewire things and give detailed picture instructions so installation is pilot-proof.
Anyway at $109 out the door, it is a steal.
I won't be doing a ton of work on this truck since the trip is coming up and all effort will now be diverted to the camper and Suburban. Have some punch out things for tomorrow and starting on that axle Shawn built. Have to add a bracket and move the shock mounts, then paint before installation.
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Sub woofer will be installed in this sequence, but first, just some post winter housekeeping.
First of all, I did not drive the truck at any time the roads were wet with snow/salt this year. I just shut down for the week it was snowy. But as a part of the post winter clean up, I did go through and recoat the inside of the frame and inner parts of the truck bed with the 3M cavity wax. I did not see any indication of rust forming anywhere. It's still as fresh as the factory made it. This one will be a survivor.
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The truck is look great IMHO at 10 years of ownership and so, so many times being off road. Literally, probably in the hundreds of times it was packed with mud, slinging chunks all over. Every single visit to the farm involved driving in mud somewhere, and sometimes in 4WD and sliding along for 3/4 of a mile! I have always had it cleaned at the local truck wash, where they really flush the underside and apply rain-X to the paint every time.
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So, on to the Sound Ordnance sub woofer
I decided to mount it behind the seat in the back cab wall
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Since I had to remove some of the factory felt and rubber sound deadener, I covered that area with dyna-mat
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Then secured the amp in place and ran the cable beneath the carpet to the front of the vehicle
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While I had the trim pieces removed, I cleaned the carpet as best as I could and re-dyed it black, a section at a time.
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With everything cleaned, dyed, armor-all, and put back together and the stereo switched on, I was rewarded with clean crisp sound in a new feeling vehicle.
I discovered the trick was to pull all of the bass out of the door speakers, leaving that task to the ordnance. This reduces the overall work the primary speakers have to do and allows for cleaner tones. The result is so much better than the factory Bose setup
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Do you like these better than the federal couragia’s? If so why? These appear to be a little more road worthy than the federal. Fummins needs tires and wheels
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Wish my back seats folded like that. I do have a little shelf back there though.
What are you listening to that need that much base? What alpine was that, or is it listed a few pages back? I can see doing the front speakers if they are that bad on mine.
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Now at 123,400 miles. I know, not that much for a 10 year old truck, but it is what it is
Changed the oil today along with the fuel filter. Used Cat filters on both. Used that cross reference tool I just posted up on the maintenance forum...pretty handy.
Running a huge CAT iR-1087 filter. Looks to be 2+ quart size. Took three gallons plus one quart to top it up
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Here's a view of that Cat oil filter. Second one on the truck, and I continue to use straight dino, the Mobil stuff 15W-40. Should have stayed with this since new. No fuss, no muss, just plain works!
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Like that filter option vs the stock little thing. Does it need an adapter?
Still have your bypass?
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Like that filter option vs the stock little thing. Does it need an adapter?
Still have your bypass?
Yes, requires an adapter.
I trashed the bypass a long time ago. It always leaked from when it was new. Adapter leaked, then lines and fittings...It was always a mess, and having to buy a $50 oil filter for it was ridiculous
That single big filter is $18 at the Cat store
I won't go Amsoil again
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Allways used dino oil, good old Rotella.
My bypass has always done good, but the filter is $$$ and only gets changed every other.
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Well, this morning, I woke up to this:
It has had a steady drip forever and I just can't find where it is coming from, but it got a lot worse in a short period of time, so I'm diving in and repairing it
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The wheels had a couple of chips in the paint and now after refinishing them and repainting them several times, I am sending them off to the powder coaters to get it done right
Had to carry them in shame down there in my wife's truck!
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And since I have it down, I will go in for a pretty major service and correction.
Same-same with that diff cover of Shawn's. I have repainted it several times, so it too gets powder coat along with the rear sway bar which was only just paint all these years. Time to upgrade all that.
Diff cover and sway bar components will be a silver and wheels are going to be coated glossy white.
Going for a classic/clean look, and those white wheels of yesteryear always cleaned up and looked great.
THat grizzly locker and Yukon gears are holding up great. This will be the second fluid change in about 120K miles
Fluid that came out looked great. Means seals held as that diff has been submerged several times
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I suppose I should change the diff and T-case fluid as well along with the PS fluid
Allison fluid?? Transynd?? Or??
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And I have another opinion question...
Should I lose the door trim or leave it?
Reason I ask is that one piece is starting to peel back and I don't see any value in keeping it. Tall truck is not all that subject to door dings from the Miata's cruising around...
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Loose it. Did you see I have a rear axle seal leaking? Front diff a little too.
Kinda wish I'd done the true trac in mine. Yukon posi is doing fine though.
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After the many miles and sun shine I’d say replace it. You are gonna pull it and get some major shadowing where it once was.
Unless you spray the bottom rockers with some type of rock chip stuff to cover where the moldings were
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After the many miles and sun shine I’d say replace it. You are gonna pull it and get some major shadowing where it once was.
Unless you spray the bottom rockers with some type of rock chip stuff to cover where the moldings were
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That's two to lose it
and
I think its time to come in with some rock chip guard product
Probably a good time to do that right now
Oh, and Dave,
Is my paint black/clearcoat
or just black single step stuff?
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You should have a quality clear on the year and model of your truck,
Should be good for a scuff sand and spray
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You should have a quality clear on the year and model of your truck,
Should be good for a scuff sand and spray
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OK, thanks!
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So, collecting up all the stuff to do this next oil change.
For the transmission, I think I am staying with the GM recommendation of Dexron VI. There is a lot of discussion about the transynd and some others, but GM uses Dex 6 if you take it to the dealership. So plan will be to drain and fill with 7.5 quarts, then when it is all finished up, drive it for an hour, then pull it back in and drain once again then top up with more fresh fluid.
Transfer case??? Dex 6 as well? Haven't looked yet.
As for the rear axle, with Sean's super large rear cover, with the fill plug located way up high, I am forgetting how much fluid I added last time I changed it. I want to say three quarts at least, but I'll buy 4 of the Valvoline 75W-90 synthetic and add until I get to a point 2" - 2.5" below the fill plug
Getting new U-bolts for the sway bar mount, new sway bar bushings and new bolts.
I know Shawn likes the studs to hold down the rear cover, but was thinking about allen head screws because darned if I didn't bend one of the studs up from the last time I installed them!
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Many say to use 30w synthetic in the Tcase. My builder said stay with tranny fluid.
He recommended and filled my trans with dextron/mercon saying it holds better. When I had the trans done I had switched to transynd at 50k, tranny actually looked good at 200k when rebuilt.
I use the same oil in my axles.
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Dex 6 in the tcase... probably closer to 5 in the rear diff. I personally use 75-140. Holds up better for towing.
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OK, gentlemen.
Confirming my suspicions.
Dex 6 for the win, trans and T-case
Rear diff 75W-90, 5 quarts (Because it gets colder here than in the desert, so perhaps the 140W is not all that necessary). Just look at how good that old diff fluid looked after 50K or more miles.
I use the Valvoline fluid for the gear boxes
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That leak was worse than I first thought.
All I could find is coolant on the two heater hoses extending from the firewall. One clamp was downright loose, so I cut off a bit of hose to make a new connection, reattached and tightened the clamp properly
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I drained the transmission of almost 3-gallons of fluid and topped it back up. Magnetic drain plug on the PPE pan looked about normal
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Air filter looked good.
I sucked all the old brake fluid out of the master cyl, then refilled and pumped the brakes. I sucked all that fluid out as a sort-of flush, then topped back up with fresh DOT3.
Same-same with the PS reservoir. Drained, refilled then ran the vehicle and cycled the steering and brakes a bunch of times, then drained that and refilled once again.
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I was going to bolt on a MA Allison tail shaft brace, but decided the undercarriage was a bit dirtier than I like, so I degreased all of that with a mild detergent and sprayed it all off.
Now all i have to do to is:
1. Reinstall the parts sent out for powder coating
2. Remove those door trim pieces
3. Scuff off and coat the lower forth of the door with Raptor
This time I am going to thin the Raptor some and spray at 65psi which makes it much lay down much smoother, then after it cures a couple of hours top coat it with a two-part clear gloss urethane. That will help the rock chip protection mimic the factory finish a bit more closely...I think
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Please take good photos of this process on the paint. I have never seen it documented well, I think it’s a great product for applying a clear over. Glad you are giving it a go!
What color?
Does your rig have fender flairs?
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Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.
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Please take good photos of this process on the paint. I have never seen it documented well, I think it’s a great product for applying a clear over. Glad you are giving it a go!
What color?
Does your rig have fender flairs?
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No flares
I have used this product many times (5-6 times I think) and have learned a bit about it. \Pressures are important. 45psi from a shutz gun = lumpy, 60-65 psi = smoother. A little thinner = a lot smoother. A bit more thinner and you can shoot from an HVLP gun and get a near factory appearance
I ordered a case of black (Black truck/no brainer)
I ordered a case of the two stage UPOL 368 cleat. Punch in a plunger on the bottom of the can to release the activator, then shake for awhile. Pot life is something near 12 hours, but as short as a few hours in the warmer temps. It bonds well with the Raptor and should yield the near factory appearance I am looking for
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Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.
Good tip!
I'll go back in after it again. PS fluid is cheap enough. What is it btw, I'm guessing AW-46 hydraulic fluid???
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don, here is the original write up that one of the admin did on DF.....(if you need to reference it?)
https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/how-to-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.9081/
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Chief, to get a full flush on the power steering you remove the rubber return line on the hydro boost.
Hook up some proper sized tubing to a collection pan and start the engine.
Pump the brakes and it flushes it all out.
You’ll have to keep topping up the ps reservoir.
You can get all of it this way including the steering gear by turning the wheel.
Good tip!
I'll go back in after it again. PS fluid is cheap enough. What is it btw, I'm guessing AW-46 hydraulic fluid???
Because of my extreme cold temps, I use synthetic ATF.
Now, the Amsoil PS fluid did work for me too.
AW-46 may work too.
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If you do a proper flush of the power steering you will be amazed how dark that fluid really is. Mine only had 100,000 miles and it looked like used engine oil.
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I had the wheels powder=coated white.
I may have made a mistake picking white, but was going for a utility/retro look. Seeing them on the truck, I am not sure.
The finish is amazing and super high quality. Another job well done by Killer Koatings of Covington KY.
I used brand new spline lug nuts and obviously cleaned everything up
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I chose a basic silver for the rear sway bar and Shawn's diff cover. More utility than for looks, I just don't want anything rusting.
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I greased the snot out of everything, using most of a tube of the red sticky stuff. I poke a small hole in boots then pump to purge old grease. I'll get a couple tablespoons out then consider it done
The tires on extreme flex have been nipping at my inner wheel house tubs. So I heated them up and bent them backward, then went over with gorilla tape
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I managed to tip over a gallon jug of 75W-90 so I get to buy some more tomorrow!
I still have a couple odds and ends to do to finish it up, but I am approaching done
It has been so cold that sanding down the chips and coating them is out of the question. I need a torpedo heater to get it warm enough in there and that, unfortunately can put microscopic oil droplets all over the surface you really want the urethane to stick to...
So I wait, probably for spring...
Oh, and I spent the morning tuning the Burb, just to make it more driveable, and I lucked onto a sweet spot with the trans tuning. It is much. much better and now holds OD meaning the RPM's dropped drastically, like almost 1000RPM! That should really wake up the mileage...
That's another thread
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1000 rpm will make all the diff in the world, nice job. Is your heater kerosen? Looking at a propane myself, plus they are safe for inside use. I hear guys who use oil type heaters indoors fly for the arme?
I liked the grey wheels. Not common and went with the black nice. Reminds me of the 70-80s look with wagon wheels,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Speaking of oil, it has really gotten pricy. I just did my Dmax (3gl now) and 2.5 jugs are close to $50 now. I always like to have a change on hand. So replacing used stock.
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I’m with ya on not sure on the white wheels.
It comin along good tho.
A normal oil change this time.
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I think Stevie Wonder would love that color scheme …..
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JR, I run the diesel torpedoes all winter, in a 600 sqft shop. Maybe that's what's wrong with me?
I had a propane version but it ate gas like crazy.
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Well, you could ask H?
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Didn’t you have one of your heat exchangers in the garage from the outdoor boiler? Or is that in your wife’s garage?
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Didn’t you have one of your heat exchangers in the garage from the outdoor boiler? Or is that in your wife’s garage?
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I do, but I don't have any wood
Things have been crazy and I haven't gotten any wood cut, nor any help to get any of that done. Remaining pre-ranger has sports all the time and most weekends spoken for. I don't get down to the farm on rainy days +2 because of all the mud, so, this year, we haven't had much wood up here...Have tons of it farmside.
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I think Stevie Wonder would love that color scheme …..
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Eb-o-ney and I-vo-rey live to-ge-ther in per-fect, har-mo=neeee
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1000 rpm will make all the diff in the world, nice job. Is your heater kerosen? Looking at a propane myself, plus they are safe for inside use. I hear guys who use oil type heaters indoors fly for the arme?
I liked the grey wheels. Not common and went with the black nice. Reminds me of the 70-80s look with wagon wheels,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Speaking of oil, it has really gotten pricy. I just did my Dmax (3gl now) and 2.5 jugs are close to $50 now. I always like to have a change on hand. So replacing used stock.
Heater runs on diesel
well, 70-80's white wagon wheels look was what I was shootin' fer
And then I remembered I was glad we finally moved on... YIKES!
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I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house
Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys
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I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house
Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys
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Refer to post #532.
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I thought your garage was heated by that fancy wood burner dealy you have heating the house
Costs me $15 bucks to keep the garage at 70 degrees all month in winter! Un pucker and pull out some Pennys
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Refer to post #532.
Ah I see
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:popcorn:
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:popcorn:
Come on JR. it's ten degrees below really cold out there. Gimme a break will ya! ;-)
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I think working in the garage is great and you have 2 heater types. Heck I run a little dish heater but have no room to work in the garage.
Right now I am in a push to get the BC up to the ridge, this weekend I hope!
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I didn't like the wheels powder coated white
So I changed it again:
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Big thumbs up!
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Way better than white
:likebutton:
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Rattle can or did you break them down and send them off again?
Looks sharp.
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I like them
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Million times better then white.
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Mucho better!!
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Rattle can or did you break them down and send them off again?
Looks sharp.
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Dun rite
$800...Ouch
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Shot a couple matching vehicle pics
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So I decided to replace the failing Edge CTS with a new one
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Only one cable for the new unit!
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Better display!
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Next I decided to try out one of those pedal commander things. I have long thought the pedal is sluggish getting this big diesel to respond. For a couple hundred, I thought it would be an interesting test.
Installation is simple, but getting the controller to connect blue tooth is not.
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Unplug the pedal and plug in the new controller
Then hook up the controller and adjust for which ever setting you want
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Now, finally, I have a new "Issue" with my truck.
Following the trip down to North Carolina and back the truck has started a louder ticking sound under acceleration. You'd think it was spark knock if it weren't a diesel engine. I've read the posts about Duramax typewriter sounds being normal, and I'm not sure if that may be it. Oil pressure is good, essentially unchanged since new so it has me mystified. So I checked out the injector balance and saw this:
Who can tell me what it is I am looking at?
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Really, those rates do not look all that bad. Non are more than over/under which seems to be OK. I cleaned mine a couple years back as I had a couple over that. Couldn't hurt it at all and not hard.
Funny, I have the CTS, tried the CT3 and didn't like it (returned) It did not have some of the things I liked and I didn't like the screen layout. Plus the mount to the window is ugly. I was told when I called it would mount in the older bezel, but it does not. I like the mount on the A pillar they just came out with though.
Can't we just "tune" the peddle to our liking?
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JR, this pedal commander actually allows you to "Tune your pedal and save three different "Tunes!"
I'm not there. That's kid stuff. What I thought was the factory pedal relationship to git-up-n-go wasn't correct.
Now I know that is true. I set this thing to 150% over stock (Stock being 100%) and bingo...Love it. The truck has a bunch more acceleration right out of the stop sign. It will boost pretty quick, so let's not overdue it pretty please!
150% was the lowest setting and I think its perfect the way it is. Mark me a satisfied customer!
Now about the new visitor, the engine ticking under acceleration. I have an appointment tomorrow morning at a nearby diesel performance shop. I'll let them put it through the diagnostics scan to see if anything is going on. I sort of doubt it, but I think I'll opt for a professional fuel injector cleaning at a minimum.
More than anything else, I want to just make sure I am not about to have to spend a chunk of change I wasn't expecting. Later on when it's warmer, I'm going to do that painting I spoke of earlier and I want to put a new interior in the truck to update it. I also plan on a new interior in the Burb as well...
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I think my older tune had that in it, seemed to jump a little better.
Injector cleaning is really easy, just check youtube!
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Only under acceleration sounds more like an exhaust leak.
Those numbers aren't crazy, but could still be an injector knock also... same as "Spark knock". It's the same issue... fuel lighting off before it's supposed to.
Typewriter tick doesn't just happen on acceleration and usually happens right after a fresh oil change.
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Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?
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I put a Banks Pedal Commander on my truck a few months back and it really does make a nice difference in acceleration from a stop.
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Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?
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Dye/paint is not sticking everywhere. Creases are flaking it off, so I'm going to do it right
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Wha is wrong with the burb interior? You just finished the interior maybe a year ago?
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Dye/paint is not sticking everywhere. Creases are flaking it off, so I'm going to do it right
What’s that all gonna involve ? Ya doing new leather?
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Ya, it's easy. Just spec out new leather seats for that year from LS Seats.com. You have to decide on color/colors, stitching and even how much leather. No seats are 100% leather. THe sides need to be vinyl because leather sides would stretch causing a poor fit down the road. Anyway, decide, write the check, and it all shows up. You can install it yourself or take it to a shop and let them do it.
While it's apart I think I'll add some sound deadener and replace anything I don't like. I am just going to drive this thing forever so might as well keep it nice
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So, today I went over to Max Rail Diesel for a diagnosis. The guy there was really digging. The scanner didn't show anything wrong at all. Injectors are good, really good, actually. All systems were perfect. He crawled onto the motor and had me brake torque it, but you could hardly hear anything wrong. He finally said he felt a hole in the turbo hot pipe, so that was that.
I went home and checked it out. The hot pipe was resting on the hydro-boost brake booster. That was transferring a lot of engine noises to my Mark-1 ears. The problem was that the thing was shoved aft into the brake booster, so I removed it.
First of all, there was no hole in it, only in the abrasion rubber patches I built up there to act as an anti-chaff barrier. Well, it worked! I peeled all that off and behold there was no damage to the pipe. So I shortened the Intercooler and mid pipe boots and reassembled everything. I now have 3/4" clearance, almost no engine noise and ready to get back out there and try it all again.
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Pull the motor ad put it in the burb, sell the parts left over, buy a new powerstroke.
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Pull the motor ad put it in the burb, sell the parts left over, buy a new powerstroke.
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You're fired
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Time to clean the fuel injectors
I believe I have one ticking fairly loudly under boost. Sounds to be on the drivers side and its noticeable.
I've looked everywhere for the AC-Delco X66-P stuff, but it is no where to be found. I planned to do the disconnect of the fuel lines and idle through 1/2 gal of diesel, but now that I can not find that stuff, what else do folks use to do this specific procedure?
Another thing, who uses 2-stroke oil in their fuel to lube the injectors? What's the correct mixture?
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https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-88861803-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B00BK7LR36/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1FTDLYPBCJLCE&keywords=gm+injector+cleaner&qid=1650851658&s=automotive&sprefix=gm+injector+cleanor%2Cautomotive%2C140&sr=1-3
I use wally 2 stroke, pint per 25 gallon and I think we filter about the same.
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JR-I found that link earlier.
Did you notice the price?
$185!!!!!!!!
Normal price is under $25
So, there must be a shortage and some people are taking advantage of we the people
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Ouch, obviously no.
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So, with no additional input, I started experimenting.
I have long known that automatic transmission fluid makes for excellent diesel fuel and I personally know folks who use it regularly.
Then I came across a diesel mechanic who services many an oil burner. When changing fuel filters on customers vehicles, he will fill them up with trans fluid first, then pour the rest of the bottle (quart) into the fuel tank. He cites one customer he has serviced well beyond 400K that he started when it had 90K.
So, I decided to do some experimenting
To start with I pulled and drained both fuel filters from the truck and refilled them with dex-3 and fired up the engine.
There is no question at all. My motor wend dead smooth, like smoother than I have ever heard it before.
Now, that filter thing took a full quart since I use a larger CAT filter. So I poured another quart into the fuel tank and went for a drive.
I couldn't tell if it made any more power, who could with a 9,000 lb truck????????
But I will say that the clacking lifter sound diminished over about 20 miles, but remained. I wouldn't know how to explain what it sounds like, but I'd attempt by saying the clack sounds "more refined" Almost like the part was fitted together to clack in that manner.
The thing still emits the tick/clack sound under boost and is directly related to engine RPM.
Next step:
Next I added a small bottle of marvel mystery oil with the thought of really going after a lubrication related issue, After a drive I cannot say there was any change at all.
Next up, in goes a full bottle of Diesel-Kleen followed by a 10 mile drive. The bottle treats 50 gallons and I had about 55 gallons in the tank.
Whoa, the thing got over 100 MPG and had flames blowing out of the tailpipe! I set seven miles of Kentucky farmland ablaze, but other than that, didn't notice anything.
When they get the fires under control, I'll find some unscorched earth, maybe a hippy commune to drive around to rack up some more mileage.
^^^Some of the above is true^^^^^^^^^^^
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Hope I'm not too late... Did you eliminate the cp4 and convert to cp3? I don't remember.
I wouldn't use home remedies on an LML personally. I've been using optilube since truck was new but not sure if it would work fast enough for your issue.
I'd save trans fluid and similar for mechanical injection only.
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Well I'm too slow... missed your last post by a few minutes.
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Hope I'm not too late... Did you eliminate the cp4 and convert to cp3? I don't remember.
I wouldn't use home remedies on an LML personally. I've been using optilube since truck was new but not sure if it would work fast enough for your issue.
I'd save trans fluid and similar for mechanical injection only.
Ya, its had a CP3 on it for years
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Ken, I tried the "good stuff" a couple times, never noticed a thing. I run 2 stroke and have run 10% soy also and bio when I can get it. I do think it runs smoother on the bio fuel all else being the same.
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Not 100% sure, but I want to say it runs smoother now after the second test drive
Maybe I'll put some peach schnapps I've had for too long in the cupboard in there next...
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Not 100% sure, but I want to say it runs smoother now after the second test drive
Maybe I'll put some peach schnapps I've had for too long in the cupboard in there next...
Just don’t light a match with the concoction you’ve got brewed up. Lol.
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I say light a match just make sure the boy is getting it on video for the YouTube
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How To: DIY - Injector cleaning
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=90745&share_tid=83493&url=https://www.duramaxforum.com/index.php?threads/How-To%3A-DIY---Injector-cleaning.83493/&share_type=t&link_source=app
GM stuff has been DCd so there is a BMW substitute but your ‘Mercian truck might start sprechen se Dutch
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How To: DIY - Injector cleaning
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=90745&share_tid=83493&url=https://www.duramaxforum.com/index.php?threads/How-To%3A-DIY---Injector-cleaning.83493/&share_type=t&link_source=app
GM stuff has been DCd so there is a BMW substitute but your ‘Mercian truck might start sprechen se Dutch
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Well, that explains why I kept seeing that BMW stuff popping up!
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I took the truck to Zack, the local wizard diesel mechanic.
It took him three minutes and he found an exhaust leak!
The rear driver's side manifold is leaking at the head.
I didn't want to fuss with it, so I scheduled him to put new gaskets in it on the 30th
I'm so relieved!
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Aftermarket manifolds you put on, right?
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Aftermarket manifolds you put on, right?
Yes
I had to routinely tighten bolts. Had some fall out. I haven't looked over them for some time...I suppose this is the price
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Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?
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Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?
PPE
I installed the allen head bolts they supplied, but a third of them came out in the 10 years those manifolds have been on that engine
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Use any type of paste on them? Seems funny the stocks stay fine but these came out.
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Good to know…
Which ones did you go with?
Did you put in new bolts at assembly?
PPE
I installed the allen head bolts they supplied, but a third of them came out in the 10 years those manifolds have been on that engine
Oh boy… I’ll need to keep en eye on them then.
That’s what I used as well.
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Talking to the mechanic, he said he will coat both sides of new gasket with RTV black (I think he said RTV). He says he does this on every job. He said the gasket will hold forever by doing that.
When I talked to him about injectors, he pointed out that he has never, not even once replaced an LML injector. His D-Max has hundreds of thousands of miles. One thing he does and recommends is to add a bottle of auto trans fluid to every fillip. He claims he has on his truck since new.
I'm going to continue doing that on mine.
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Alrighty, I am beginning to experiment with running this engine on WMO. I'll start a new thread and just make observations as I get further into this process. I believe the changing times demands it
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The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!
So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck
So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.
It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.
Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.
The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.
The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.
I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.
Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.
When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...
The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.
The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.
I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.
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Where are your tires rubbing?
Can you post a photo of the dash cracked areas? Curiosity on why gm is having dash panels crack?
Did you not have a dash mat in there?
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All plastic dash panels crack. Thats why we run covers (or I do) I dropped the $$ for a new dash on the Sub, but got a cover too.
I like the 35 Don, another OD gear would be nice but towing is great and never rubs. Don't even think about it now.
My drivers seat bottom just started to rip. I need to find the new bottom I have for it, foam seems great.
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The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!
So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck
So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.
It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.
Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.
The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.
The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.
I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.
Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.
When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...
The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.
The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.
I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.
You'll be very pleased with Leatherseats.com. I ordered all new foam & leather seats from them for my C6 a few years ago. Pricey, but you get what you pay for.
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Where are your tires rubbing?
Can you post a photo of the dash cracked areas? Curiosity on why gm is having dash panels crack?
Did you not have a dash mat in there?
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They hit the rear of the wheel well...And I did the mod some time ago. Either needs to get taller again (No) or get 35's (Likely permanent solution)
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The centrifuges are awaiting parts like everything else in the 'merica!
So time to move forward and do some much needed parts replacement on this aging truck
So far the truck has amassed 138,000 miles which is a pretty low number for an 11-year-old, about 12,500 a year.
It needs one exhaust manifold gasket, and that is sitting on the shelf.
I need to do something about the front tires rubbing. I lowered it an inch or so about 6 months ago and now it rubs on every turn when I hit a bump. Honestly, I think I may switch back to 35" tires! I have gotten used to it and I have never been in any off-road situation that required me to have 37" tires. I am thinking 35's would be better. Since I either drive it empty or tow a trailer and a tractor, the increased rpm and lower gear ratio from a smaller tire would work well for towing. I find myself running around in 5th a lot of the time so I don't lug it too badly, so I am rather certain it would benefit from a slightly smaller tire along with a bit more lowering.
Just driving it around, especially slow and in parking lots is not a joy. The turning radius is not good, and I may revisit that too.
The rock chips have gotten pretty numerous, so it is time to sand all that down and recoat with urethane bed liner.
The interior has several problems that I am addressing. First, the vinyl on the side of the driver's seat bottom has cracked and will eventually split. Today I ordered a completely new leather interior from Leather Seats.com. I also picked up a new foam driver's seat bottom piece that is a bit denser than the factory. Finally, I purchased a center console lid cover in Mitt Brown leather.
I selected a two-tone color pallet. The body of the seat and back will remain black. But the seating surfaces will be done in a perforated mitt brown series of panels. The headrest and backs will remain brown. The back seats will be sewn in the same pattern and finished with Mitt-brown double stitching.
Those are on order and on a 4-week lead time.
When all that comes out, I will remove the interior and address all issues including shampooing the carpet. I am debating installing dynomat sound deadener...
The dash has cracked in several places, so I purchased another one to cover everything.
The driver's door armrest has failed so I picked up a new GM panel to fix that.
I am just going to go bumper to bumper and fix everything. I'll detail and paint to get it ready for the next 11 years. With a couple of generations now having come and gone, my truck is turning into something of a relic, err, classic. I actually like driving it for that reason. It still gets as good/better mileage than any new one-ton, has more horsepower by at least a margin of + 50%, and a couple of hundred ft/lbs. over the closest contender, the Ford. It's paid for and in the tuck where we pay taxes on property, we own including our vehicles, I turn an annual $700 tax bill into a $250 one. So, it makes sense to continue to update this trusty ride.
You'll be very pleased with Leatherseats.com. I ordered all new foam & leather seats from them for my C6 a few years ago. Pricey, but you get what you pay for.
Under $1200 for all the leather
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I looked at factory replacement for mine, and fell over with the price.
Looking at this site,
I can get 100% leather and custom for only a few hundy more than the OEM would be.
Gonna cost me some money now but thanks for the motivation. Lol.
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I looked at factory replacement for mine, and fell over with the price.
Looking at this site,
I can get 100% leather and custom for only a few hundy more than the OEM would be.
Gonna cost me some money now but thanks for the motivation. Lol.
My pleasure ;-)
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Man, I spent hours today working on that driver's side exhaust manifold. I had forgotten all about how hard that one is to work on.
So, first the diagnostics. When I pulled the wheel well liner out, I still couldn't even see the manifold. So next I pulled the hot side intercooler piping out. Then it was still a bit of a jungle, and I could see the steering shaft was going to be in the way, so that came out next.
Having forgotten all about the misery of installing the performance manifolds and up-pipes, I was thinking I would be in there a couple hours.
No such luck. But after the steering shaft was partially removed, I could see a nice black patch on the cylinder head at the rear, so that confirmed the strange sound I was hearing was, indeed an exhaust leak.
I wrestled with that manifold and the up pipe bolts for a couple of hours, but eventually, it yielded.
The up-pipe gasket showed zero signs of leakage
The manifold gasket told the story. Although it was intact, the rear port was nearly black all the way around. The lower aft bolt was missing. The top aft bolt was very loose. The next two forward bolts were also loose, so I'll bet if I just tightened the bolts and installed one where the other one had fallen out, I would have very likely fixed it. But since the manifold was detached, and I had a new gasket, I was installing it for sure.
So, I glued the gasket to the manifold with some copper high temp RTV and allowed it to cure for about an hour. Then I reinstalled the manifold. I was fussing around trying to find some way of just feeling where that bolt fit in the lower rear hole when I looked at the up pipe. I remember I had a stud on the lower manifold to the up-pipe hole and use the standard 12 pt. special bolts in the other two. Well, guess what? The up pipe could not be pushed aft far enough to get it to slide over the stud. So around hour five of this debacle I had to pull the manifold off the truck a second time. And, yes, it was another major pita!
After installing a fresh gasket on the rear of the manifold, I slid it over the up pipe, then wrestled it back into place. I tightened all bolts except for that problematic aft lower bolt. I started around 1230 and finished around 2000. 7.5 hours of misery. I was greasy and black all over and it took a lot of scrubbing to get me back to normal.
I still have to somehow get that aft lower mani bolt in and tightened and everything else reassembled.
I'll bet it takes me half a day tomorrow, but on the upside, I will have fixed an annoying issue. This is the start of a bumper-to-bumper-fix everything effort that will conclude with a new interior and a third of the vehicle repainted.
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I got that fixed. New gaskets and no pist-pist-pist sound from a leaky manifold.
That wasn't easy! Getting to a couple of those bolts was challenging
The wheel well was pretty oily, or greasy feeling. It turned out to be that cavity wax I had liberally sprayed in there last year. I soaked it with diesel and then hosed it all off, and now it's squeaky clean. When it dries, I'll recoat and spend some retying up and taping the web of wiring bundles draped everywhere.
This was a good start to the reconditioning of my trusty classic Chevy truck
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FYI, just got a 70gal aux tank for mine. Got 19+ mpg going to placerville and back today.
Then I ran to Brooks, then to Stockton selling my old lift parts ($350). Still on 3/4 tank after filling in Folsom ($240)
Can't wait to buy diesel for $1 cheaper a gallon and have plenty around AND maybe make some!
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FYI, just got a 70gal aux tank for mine. Got 19+ mpg going to placerville and back
Saw that and responded over on your thread...That's solid JR. Question: How many miles do you have on yours at the moment?
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Buttoned it up today. Took some time to tape up the wiring harness and zip-tie it in places. The old zip ties had moved, and some branches of the harness were flapping in the breeze. I greased the front end as well and took it for a test drive after topping up engine oil (Where I had removed the filter to get at the manifold bolts). Topped up the coolant, then drained the fuel filters and refilled them with transmission fluid to make sure I had a good prime. I had completely drained the filters to get diesel to clean the side of the engine bay.
It's running strong and the pist-pist sound is gone, so the problem is remedied.
On to the next fix!
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I am just shy of 250k. The 35 tires are the ticket for towing. Big thing I need now is traction bars, air bags installed and a rear sway bar.
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FYI, just got a 70gal aux tank for mine. Got 19+ mpg going to placerville and back today.
Then I ran to Brooks, then to Stockton selling my old lift parts ($350). Still on 3/4 tank after filling in Folsom ($240)
Can't wait to buy diesel for $1 cheaper a gallon and have plenty around AND maybe make some!
19mpg is pretty good. I can eek out 20-20.5 mpg running up I-5 to our friends’ place about 80 miles away.
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I find it goes down when I get past 70mph. These trucks really push some air.
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I am just shy of 250k. The 35 tires are the ticket for towing. The big thing I need now is traction bars, airbags installed, and a rear sway bar.
I use an earlier F350 sway bar and I flip it and mount it on top of the axle, so it does not reduce ground clearance. With that and the airbags I use along with the fatter-than-factory front sway bar, my truck does not roll much in the corners.
I do really feel the need for a smaller tire...It's coming
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I find it goes down when I get past 70mph. These trucks really push some air.
And I think that is about 50% of the equation right there. A lifted truck, especially with that big shell that sits proud of the cab is hurting me. The next bigger factor is the tire size. I have to agree with you JR, that a 4.56 gear and a 35" tire is perfect for power. Almost like when I get to 75-80, I can almost relax on the pedal. It just wants to run at 2200 rpm. Mine, of course, is a little different than stock since I run a larger Fleece turbo.
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Guys give me a good recommendation for an AT tire in the size 35X 12.50R18 load range E
Seems my favorite, Kanati trail hogs are not available
Not interested in a MT tire at all
I'm coming up with the standard, the BFG AT, but at $440 ea, that's almost stupid.
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Not cheap but nitto ridge grapplers have performed well for me
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Not cheap but nitto ridge grapplers have performed well for me
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Thanks, but too expensive
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I’ve always been a fan of Cooper tires. Supposedly one of the last tire Made in America…
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Thats why I went with cheap this time around. These Ironmans were $200 each. Thats a screaming deal today, shipped free (ebay)
Don't think the shell is really a factor, its the added weight. Just like I guess I am way over 8k. Sure I got a few things I could loose, but I like a full size spare and some tools/gear.
Iv'e had really good luck with coopers, would get them in a second!
Look for whats on sale, see how much lower it sits then and adjust. I am looking vortex generators for the shell and maybe a dam when tow big stuff. It all helps.
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Not cheap but nitto ridge grapplers have performed well for me
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I’d pay the money for nitto ridge grapplers all day long
Of the many sets I have never seen less then 50k miles on them
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Not cheap but nitto ridge grapplers have performed well for me
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I’d pay the money for nitto ridge grapplers all day long
Of the many sets I have never seen less then 50k miles on them
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Thanks for the advice, but-
You never had a Yukon grizzly locker though. My tires would last a lot longer but that locker locks most of the time. Yesterday, I was turning out of the just recovered driveway into our local school. My tire on the inside was chirping and digging all through the turn. It's that scrubbing that wears the tires quickly. For that reason alone I am just not going to invest in anything expensive. Nothing will last very long on my truck.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/325283686069?epid=14048562138&hash=item4bbc6b26b5:g:ZVcAAOSwTWJi4ErT:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!95687!US!-1
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He said he didn’t want MTs.
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Ive had good luck with Duratracks.
Not sure on cost for that size or if available.
But will likely be aloof 400 bones each id guess.
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Not cheap but nitto ridge grapplers have performed well for me
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I’d pay the money for nitto ridge grapplers all day long
Of the many sets I have never seen less then 50k miles on them
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Thanks for the advice, but-
You never had a Yukon grizzly locker though. My tires would last a lot longer but that locker locks most of the time. Yesterday, I was turning out of the just recovered driveway into our local school. My tire on the inside was chirping and digging all through the turn. It's that scrubbing that wears the tires quickly. For that reason alone I am just not going to invest in anything expensive. Nothing will last very long on my truck.
I have a grizzly in mine. I’ll check the mileage.
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Maybe dump the grizzly locker.
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Pretty happy with my Posi, but I would do a Truetrac if I did it again. I want driveabilty and traction, not a mall rock cruiser.
God I hate the look of these wide low profile tires people are doing.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/325283686069?epid=14048562138&hash=item4bbc6b26b5:g:ZVcAAOSwTWJi4ErT:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!95687!US!-1
Great lead, JR!
Prob not going with the Ironman because those are gonna be NOISY
I've driven this truck now for 11 years, and 3-4 times a month I get really off-road. The times I needed a mud tire were extreme cases and the mud tires could not even handle it. Thinks like during days of rain on a long steeper slope. Every time the truck just kept slipping downhill further and further. For the rest of the 99% off-road, I have to say, an AT tire worked just fine. It will slip and spin a bit more but because of that excellent grizzly locker and the truck's weight and wheelbase, AT tires will even allow me to tow uphill, all except when its mushy, and I don't tow uphill on grass or goo when it rains.
Now, most of the life of this truck it glides up and down US highways and by-ways, so noise is really more of a factor. Not that I can hear all that much except for that constant high-pitched whine 24/7. With what hearing I do have left (Not much..Really!) I want to listen to my 80's R&R, my country, and my Christian along with a healthy spattering of instrumental tunes. I don't want another whine to compliment the one I live with, even now.
So, I am going to try and stay away from noisy tires.
But, and there's always a butt, especially when we talk about that certain "H"
But I am about to take delivery on a serenely quiet Tesla.
That will be quiet
And that is what I will soon be driving to and fro in urbana and suburbia. This means the truck will get used far less
This means if it did make some noise, well it would only be for a short time
So, for that reason if I can't find reasonably priced AT's I might just opt for a MT...
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Pretty happy with my Posi, but I would do a Truetrac if I did it again. I want driveabilty and traction, not a mall rock cruiser.
God I hate the look of these wide low profile tires people are doing.
They just telegraph..."STUPID!"
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Maybe dump the grizzly locker.
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NEVA...!!!
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I hear the same whine, hate it but what can you do.
I may go the same on tires next time. 90% is on the road but those times I deal with snow and ice they come through. There some pretty aggressive AT out there. I saw some for around $240 lest I looked, not name brand.
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I hear the same whine, hate it but what can you do.
I may go the same on tires next time. 90% is on the road but those times I deal with snow and ice they come through. There some pretty aggressive AT out there. I saw some for around $240 lest I looked, not name brand.
I would stay with Kanati trail hog AT,s but they stopped making them in the size I need. I am on my second set of Kanatis and I just love them. Really an RT tire more than an AT, they stand up to the grizzly locker better than anything else. They do whine a little.
Driving down to and back from Richmond KY today, 1+30 each way. I drove 72 mph down there and averaged 17.1-3. But coming back I set the cruise on 64 and pulled in the driveway with 19.3 showing on the dash. What a difference!
Based on the noise I was experiencing; I think I am going to use the dyno Mat on the floor while the interior is out to be recovered.
This morning I used a propane torch to heat and almost melt the wheel well liners on both sides. While they were hot, I used gorilla tape to securely pull them as far aft as possible. That took care of a lot of the rubbing but the tire is still hitting the electric folding step. Try as I may, the 37" tires cannot remain in use on that truck
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/334258489057?hash=item4dd35bc6e1:g:uSAAAOSwkOJhvLkw
I see many in the $250-300 price range. Got to be something out there!
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Tires are ordered
TBB AT's 35 12.50R18 Load Range E
$993 out the door
After burning a lot of brain cells out and checking everything out, just tossed in the towel and punched the "Place Order" button
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I :likebutton: those
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I :likebutton: those
Ya know JR,, I Think most of these cheapo tires are about the same. Same belt construction, pretty much the same load ratings, wear index and all the rest.
My kanatis are probably no better than all the rest of the tires manufactured in Singapore, Thailand, and China. They will solve for the rubbing issue and allow me to lower the truck about another inch which is about where it will remain. Hopefully, they may pick up fuel mileage and for sure will make towing nicer. So it's a win in my books. I don't look as zombie ready, but I haven't run across any of those folks, they all moved to California and Texas!
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So, I got a bunch more done today on the interior upgrade.
First I replaced the worn original driver's door interior panel with a new GM panel
Here's the old one and the new one about to get installed:
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The new trim panel even included the factory Styrofoam panel which had a bead of caulk/rubber gummy stuff which made for a nice install
It didn't take long, and that piece was reinstalled and looked good. While I was in there, I regreased the window sliders and inspected the inside of the door. On that: That 3M cavity wax really does a great job. There was nothing in there to buy shiny paint. Absolutely zero corrosion anywhere. I had the same result when I pulled off the wheelhouse liner earlier. I had coated the interior parts with the 3M and another product, and all those areas were factory fresh. Seriously, if you washed it all out with kerosene it wouldn't look much different from the day, I took delivery when it was new
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The dash redo is a bit more involved.
I stripped all the stuff I had all over my factory-cracked dash and cleaned and sanded it all down.
Next I pulled a lot of the trim panels and the instrument cluster so I could get to that EFI Live 5 position tune switch. I had it in a fixture on the top of the dash, and I finally decided it looked pretty hillbilly sitting there, so I moved that down beside the steering wheel and made a super clean install of it.
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I thoroughly cleaned everything and snugged up some bolts I found which had loosened over the years. I sprayed some cavity wax all over that steel pipe below the dash and tucked the wires a little better.
The new dash is just a dash cover. I figure I'd give this a try and if I didn't like it, replace the whole dash with new GM parts.
Frankly, I have to say, this dash cover is a great fitting part and looked good at the test fit
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I laid beads of the supplied silicone and then cleaned the old dash with brake cleaner.
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I placed the dash cover over the existing factory piece and pressed it into place.
I placed heavy things all over the thing and taped it down in places. I'll have to leave it this way for 6 hours while the silicone sets up
It looked a ton better right away
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And for those of you not believing Kentucky is just getting pummeled by thunderstorms, here's another big one approaching the casa. We have been getting downpours for a couple of weeks now.
My sister had three feet of water over her lower field, and the bridge they need to cross over that connects their driveway to the main road was almost underwater. It stands about 15 feet proud of the stream under normal conditions. The town of McKee was about half submerged, but the water will come up fast, then abate.
My neighbor and my boy's doctor has kin living in eastern KY. They are OK, but the town below them washed away along with the road. I hear it is pretty desperate in Hazard and other more back-water places. Those people are proud. They likely won't let the feds to come in, as they don't trust the federal government at all. I'll bet the death toll is much higher than reported because of that.
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Looks good Don, My drivers door is showing some wear, so that may be in the works too. Bet that panel was $$ from GM though.
Hazard County Kentucky, it just sounds like a problem but hope everyone is OK. We could sure use a little rain hear.
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Looks good Don, My drivers door is showing some wear, so that may be in the works too. Bet that panel was $$ from GM though.
Hazard County Kentucky, it just sounds like a problem but hope everyone is OK. We could sure use a little rain hear.
That door panel new from GM was just under $500
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Gee. Can’t imagine why people wouldn’t trust the government….
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Gee. Can’t imagine why people wouldn’t trust the government….
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:rolleyes:
I know right…
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Gee. Can’t imagine why people wouldn’t trust the government….
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Maybe some of those 86,000 new IRS auditors can come on down and grab a shovel...They could really help then
Funny, but I read yesterday that although the IRS seeks to audit big organizations to hopefully recover (steal) billions, is practical terms, big companies are very good at avoiding being taxed. Therefore, according to testimony from one IRS auditor, they turn their attention to poor people since they are "Easy."
Government story line: You will not see additional audits if you make less than $400,000
Truth: The newly created Pretorian guard, numbering more than the FBI, Homeland security, Border control, and the US Marine Corps and heavily armed is coming after every American. Part of a planned takeover by a far overreaching and oppressive new American regime.
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Maybe something to do with the "new" minimum tax for businesses.
And each of those agents makes around 100K a year (give or take bennys)
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Just as a reminder some political party used the IRS audit against their political party running against them. But history never repeats itself. Right?
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Just as a reminder some political party used the IRS audit against their political party running against them. But history never repeats itself. Right?
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That was a fluke! A one-time thing. The government can now be trusted.
and
since the FBI just raided former President Trump, I think we can all assume he really is a big bad orange man and never, never vote for him again.
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Today: One tire showed up, but FedEx is showing four delivered!!!!!
My horn had stopped working. I purchased a factory note dual horn setup. When I pulled the replacement horn out and rotated it, I emptied half a cup of rusty water. I can figure out what happened to that one!
I used the horn 10-amp circuit and repositioned the dual horn setup ahead of the intercooler facing down and aft. I made up a fresh harness, loomed it and finished the install. It's now loud (110db) and sounds like a factory setup
Next, I removed the factory door trim strips in preparation for the upcoming Urethane coating.
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That whole area will be sanded smooth, then brought back with a sealer and the urethane, but before that, I worked vigorously to rub off all the factory glue and foam. That took a little time, but I was rewarded with a smooth surface
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I have a guy coming over next week to detail the Suburban, and I almost want to detail this truck, but first it really needs some good old paint repair. I will use the three-step process of primer/sealer, then the flat black color coat, then finally three coats of two-part clear. I'll buff all that out later on when it gets cooler, and the paint has had several months to set up.
This truck is in really good condition, and I believe it deserves a retouch along with all the mechanical repairs and of course the new leather interior.
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I am also thinking hard about what I may do with the spare tire carrier. Part of me says to just toss it since that expensive wheel and tire broke off and rolled away, and I also think about getting rid of the topper and just adding a tonneau cover.
It is now faded a little, so it, too, would have to get a repaint.
But another part of me likes the truck with that tough-looking utility topper. I could just remove it, paint it too and reinstall it and go for another 11 years.
Thoughts?
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A good detailer can do paint repair and correction. let a pro handle it.
There is a thing called a 3m eraser wheel to take off all that residue from the removal of the moulding. Yeah, I know I’m fired for not mentioning it before you did it the hard way…
I don’t personally like toppers unless you are sleeping back there. I like open beds or covers that allow you to use the open bed, the essence of a truck. Otherwise you have a suburban…but you already have one…
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A good detailer can do paint repair and correction. let a pro handle it.
There is a thing called a 3m eraser wheel to take off all that residue from the removal of the moulding. Yeah, I know I’m fired for not mentioning it before you did it the hard way…
I don’t personally like toppers unless you are sleeping back there. I like open beds or covers that allow you to use the open bed, the essence of a truck. Otherwise you have a suburban…but you already have one…
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Ya, I'm kinda getting to that point myself.
Everything I carry back there would fit beneath a tonneau cover or live for a short time in an open bed.
I'm thinking the 6" or so of the topper that pokes its head proud of the streamlined roof is costing me a little bit in fuel mileage. So in the interest of moving the truck back to being more of a truck and less of a cool play truck, the Topper could indeed move alone, as it very well may.
I know well the eraser wheels/pads. But some vigorous rubbing and a terrycloth chased with some mineral spirits will get the job done
I used to paint cars. Have painted one or two on these pages. I would go for a paint correction, but I have bonified holes in the finish from years of dirt roads.
Sanding the lower fourth will address 90% of that mess, but for those few areas remaining, I am pretty good at blending in, and a panel repaint with clear is so easy. Sand it with 1000-1500 do the usual prep and lay down three thin coats and just like that you're shinin' like a new one.
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I guess I will give my point of view on the canopy vs open bed. I use my truck to tow/haul stuff. Having a wall between gas and diesel containers and inside, keeps the smell in the bed not in the cabin area. I carry lots of stuff in the bed of my truck and it stays dry because I have the cab high canopy. Takes up no cabin area so lots of seating room. I can sleep in the dry on short hunting/fishing trips and still tow the boat or jeep.
And if needed, it doesn’t take long to remove the canopy if needed. I have never had to remove it yet.
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Yeah, I like having a shell. I carry to much but it would still fit under a cover. But I like that I can put things there and lock it up. Plus I get fuel all the time, like it vented per say. In fact I am looking at quick connects now for the aux tank.
Will the spare fit under the back? I have 33in under there now. If I can gain another 2 inches I can carry it there. The stock hitch is in the way now. I have a Runel that I can move back a little and its rated for more than the stock hitch.
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I am also thinking hard about what I may do with the spare tire carrier. Part of me says to just toss it since that expensive wheel and tire broke off and rolled away, and I also think about getting rid of the topper and just adding a tonneau cover.
It is now faded a little, so it, too, would have to get a repaint.
But another part of me likes the truck with that tough-looking utility topper. I could just remove it, paint it too and reinstall it and go for another 11 years.
Thoughts?
when and what happened with the spare tire carrier you made?
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I am also thinking hard about what I may do with the spare tire carrier. Part of me says to just toss it since that expensive wheel and tire broke off and rolled away, and I also think about getting rid of the topper and just adding a tonneau cover.
It is now faded a little, so it, too, would have to get a repaint.
But another part of me likes the truck with that tough-looking utility topper. I could just remove it, paint it too and reinstall it and go for another 11 years.
Thoughts?
when and what happened with the spare tire carrier you made?
I picked up on this as well,
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Rolled away?
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I have no clue as to where that tire is!
When I departed my home, it was there, but when I returned from the farm it was missing.
A really hefty weld, all 360 degrees of it broke. So, the hub the wheel was bolted to along with the tire and wheel are likely in someone else's possession at the moment. I wonder if it broke off when I was in busy traffic?
It likely broke away along the bumpy drive into the farm, but with 2'-3' weeds all along the road, I'll not know until winter sometime, but likely not then.
My neighbor allows some poorer people to come back there and cut firewood. I imagine if they found that they would drive straight to a pawn shop to get a few bucks for it.
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I now have all four 35" tires. I'll get them installed on Monday if I have time
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Tires are installed
Looks like a surfboard on roller skate wheels!
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I came home and turned the torsion bar keys down 2.5 turns
Then let a bunch of air out of the bags. It was sloppy, so I added about #30 to the bags. It now sits nose high. Can't go much lower on air in them so I may have to raise the front end a turn...???
It is definitely lower now
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Next, I got after the back end
It was a mess with crap all over, spilled oil, stains, dusty, with dirt here and there.
So the cleaning began!
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A bunch of tossing things, and a gallon of simple green and some quality pressure washer time, and it cleaned up very nicely
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:likebutton:
Still way higher than mine. You will find the happy spot.
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Check this out Don, look familiar?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/5156646667737692/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-5780844282388591622%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%22991899313841449002%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A991899313841449002%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A19%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A241965422230896640%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A5.9353359953268e-5%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A3523%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%226173147479367848%5C%22%3A3502%2C%5C%228238458906164272%5C%22%3A3023%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-5780860156783847054%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%22241965422230896640%22%2C%22ftmd_400706%22%3A%22111112l%22%7D
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Looks like Dave found your missing tire!
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Oh that’s hilarious.
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Check this out Don, look familiar?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/5156646667737692/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-5780844282388591622%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%22991899313841449002%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A991899313841449002%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A19%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A241965422230896640%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A5.9353359953268e-5%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A3523%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%226173147479367848%5C%22%3A3502%2C%5C%228238458906164272%5C%22%3A3023%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-5780860156783847054%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%22241965422230896640%22%2C%22ftmd_400706%22%3A%22111112l%22%7D
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Dave, that does look a little familiar!
I think I'll pay the finders fee and be happy I got it back...Message sent.
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Update on my long-lost tire and wheel: Thanks to Air Force Dave, I clicked on the link, then messaged the person who had the tire for sale. I told him a brief story and sent him a picture of my truck. I offered a finder's fee and he accepted. He was very nice and cordial and hopefully, tomorrow morning, I will meet him and get it back.
A friend of his runs a state highway mowing crew. He is the actual person who found it and took it to the young man who currently holds it. How funny now that this comes full circle!
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Just doing my part. I figure a finders fee would be cheaper than a new wheel and powder coating. Funny thing is I wasn’t even looking for wheels and tires last night, it just popped up in my suggested items. In hindsight, I should have bought it and stuck it on the Blazer.
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What are the chances? Maybe use better cardboard on the welding table next time.
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What are the chances? Maybe use better cardboard on the welding table next time.
ROFLMAO!
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Welding grade cardboard? Where? how much?
;-)
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Well, I am back in possession of my runaway spare tire and the broken hub which is still bolted to it.
Ride report on the tire change/suspension alteration:
In a word, the truck is better with the smaller tires. It is quieter than before. It does not roll nearly as much in corners as it did when it sat at least 2" higher. It feels planted and solid and can be driven on twisty roads at a faster speed than before. It feels more responsive and when driving to/from the farm yesterday, it scored 19.8 mpg. I usually turned in numbers from 17.3 all the way to 19, with most falling in the low 18's. I will cautiously say that I believe I am getting about 1 mpg more than before and possibly as much as 2 mpg.
The truck does not look as good as it did before, but all in all, it is a good tradeoff and compromise
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C.o.G.
Never lies
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Just completed another 110 miles to/from the farm today. This time 21.3 mpg.
That is definitely better and a solid gain. Rounding, I'd call it a 10% increase although it's a little better than that
I'll keep an eye on it to see if this change comes home to roost.
The leather interior shipped yesterday from OK city.
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Was going to ask. I just made a run and got 18.8, but you have a better turbo and exhaust.
Sweet. I don't think it looks funny, just what I'm used to.
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Was going to ask. I just made a run and got 18.8, but you have a better turbo and exhaust.
Sweet. I don't think it looks funny, just what I'm used to.
Need to read a little further, JR. Made the same run and got 21.3. It was showing 22.3 for some of the trip, then came the hills!
BTW, the seat leather just came in. It looks pretty good.
Ordering the Dyna-mat sound deadener from Summit
Edit: I have this automatic price scanner installed on my computer. I loaded the Dynamat sound deadener into the cart at Summit which was some $369 before tax. The program posted a link to save money. I followed the link to Amazon where I bought the same item number for $281!
It's enroute...
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Was going to ask. I just made a run and got 18.8, but you have a better turbo and exhaust.
Sweet. I don't think it looks funny, just what I'm used to.
Need to read a little further, JR. Made the same run and got 21.3. It was showing 22.3 for some of the trip, then came the hills!
BTW, the seat leather just came in. It looks pretty good.
Ordering the Dyna-mat sound deadener from Summit
Edit: I have this automatic price scanner installed on my computer. I loaded the Dynamat sound deadener into the cart at Summit which was some $369 before tax. The program posted a link to save money. I followed the link to Amazon where I bought the same item number for $281!
It's enroute...
Too late, but should have checked fatmat it’s cheaper and just as good.
Rattletrap by fatmat
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Was going to ask. I just made a run and got 18.8, but you have a better turbo and exhaust.
Sweet. I don't think it looks funny, just what I'm used to.
Need to read a little further, JR. Made the same run and got 21.3. It was showing 22.3 for some of the trip, then came the hills!
BTW, the seat leather just came in. It looks pretty good.
Ordering the Dyna-mat sound deadener from Summit
Edit: I have this automatic price scanner installed on my computer. I loaded the Dynamat sound deadener into the cart at Summit which was some $369 before tax. The program posted a link to save money. I followed the link to Amazon where I bought the same item number for $281!
It's enroute...
Too late, but should have checked fatmat it’s cheaper and just as good.
Rattletrap by fatmat
Yep-Too late
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i think taking the topper off will help with the visual aspect ratio of the smaller tires. it's funny how a mere 2" of rubber can make such a drastic difference.
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Back to the truck
and
today
we will be tinting the windows
...All of the windows
And here we are at the beginning.
Now, silly me, I thought I already had tinting on the windows, but I confused this truck with the ancient 2001 Tundra I had tinted to 35%.
This truck was a virgin.
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I went with 20% on the front doors, 70% on the passenger doors. We measured the factory tint at 18% on the back glass, so to make it pretty dark only requires a light tint. I elected to go with 70% on the windshield, 20% on the already dark tinted shell on the back, and finally, 20% on the rear-facing cab glass
The sequence shows the driver's door going from factory to 20% installed
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Here the back glass is getting covered, all four of them
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In this series, the remaining four doors are being covered
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Pics of Ryan and dad (Darn, I can't remember dad's name...sorree...) They work well together and this job, like my T-car from a few days ago is a solid hit, a 10! I found no errors, just a great tint job!
Another great job for Sunshield window tinting of Florence, KY
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I have decided to just keep the topper on the truck.
So I'll be painting it or doing something to brighten it up. Since the back side is heavily stained by sloshing gas and diesel for years, I feel like a complete repaint is in order for it.
I'll also have to reconstruct the rear tire carrier since once again, I have a rear tire to actually carry! I think I'll pull the topper off then at that time
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Need to get mine redone, 15 years old. Pass is gone and drivers is pealing.
Only issue I ever had was backing up at night, I have to roll the windows down.
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Need to get mine redone, 15 years old. Pass is gone and drivers is pealing.
Only issue I ever had was backing up at night, I have to roll the windows down.
I took my mirrors off and beefed up my rear bumper. No problems backing up day or night now ;-)
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And use the "spare tire" as a stop?
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And use the "spare tire" as a stop?
Makes you wonder if it really "fell" off, lol
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Only when he can find it.
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Only when he can find it.
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I didn't, remember?
The highway mowing crew did ;-)
Outside ripping the interior out of it at the moment
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Or buy it back,,,,,,,,,,,
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Started the interior replacement project today with the teardown phase.
Today's objective was to get the big interior parts removed and cleaned up and ready for the upholstery shop. Next, I hoped to give it a good vacuum and use high-pressure air to blow everything out.
I started with the small rear seat
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I seen a post not to long ago where a guy took his headliner and painted it with that upholstery type stuff all black! It looked great
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So, the pictures are going to be all ganked up
There is a reason
I am using my crappy I-phone
Honestly, I do not see what everyone sees in this apple junk. I hate the MacBooks, and you cannot type a text on the I-phone without it looking like hieroglyphics. So, I'll just let the POC i-phony screw up this set of pics
because
I no longer have a regular SLR Cannon
Work tip of the day: Never, and I mean NEVER use brake cleaner to clean your camera. Turns out in addition to removing stubborn stains, it will also melt interior and exterior body parts. Buttons will melt in place, batteries will get welded into a permanent place, and I've heard, some plastic lens parts will do some pretty strange stuff...and become opaque.
Just a tip mind you...
I'll start a thread on a new camera very soon...
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When I tool my drivers seat out the crud was nasty and I'm the careful one!
Heck, my phone works great for this stuff.
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I seen a post not to long ago where a guy took his headliner and painted it with that upholstery type stuff all black! It looked great
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Hmmm, never thought about that
Got a link?
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When I tool my drivers seat out the crud was nasty and I'm the careful one!
Well, JR, I think I may have you beat. I never ever suspected my seat could be that filthy! Never knew that brake cleaner melts cameras either! Seems I'm learning a lot today
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You (Well, JR asked) asked for it
Here's the horror story under my seat:
and the strange star nut that holds those seats in there
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After a lot of vacuum action, I had it looking respectable
It will get shampoo'd and re-dyed after I slab on the sound deadener underneath.
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The fore-aft screw was actually bound up with a big ball of dog hair. I spent some good time cleaning the underside of the seats until they were respectable enough to go to the shop. I'll detail then some more when I get them back and re-grease the screw-jacks
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Stacked up and ready for the shop. They get delivered tomorrow
My trusty assistants are always at the ready to carry off something important. Today it was my prescription eyeglasses. I only recovered part of the side and a nose piece. No worries, they were just super expensive Oakley steel framed no line trifocals
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Bet your hands smell like snacks. You give em snacks, then touch your glasses, history.
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I don’t know how you can mess up an iPhone. My 80 yr ol mom has been posting photos of her trip to Italy all week with her iPhone
Iv never had a problem.
All you pictures came in just fine via tapatalk
I don’t think I’d be able to find the post again. I believe it was on instagram.
https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/vinyl-and-fabric-paint/p/dupli-color-flat-black-vinyl-fabric-spray-paint-11oz/645639_0_0
This product is what I remember him using.
Masking off the plastic bits like lights n things. Imagine you would have to scuff the other hard surfaces a little and clean well with a solvent to make sure it bonds well.
Black roof in there would look pretty killer and since all the other things are out. Lots more simple
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I don’t know how you can mess up an iPhone. My 80 yr ol mom has been posting photos of her trip to Italy all week with her iPhone
Iv never had a problem.
All you pictures came in just fine via tapatalk
I don’t think I’d be able to find the post again. I believe it was on instagram.
https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/vinyl-and-fabric-paint/p/dupli-color-flat-black-vinyl-fabric-spray-paint-11oz/645639_0_0
This product is what I remember him using.
Masking off the plastic bits like lights n things. Imagine you would have to scuff the other hard surfaces a little and clean well with a solvent to make sure it bonds well.
Black roof in there would look pretty killer and since all the other things are out. Lots more simple
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I like the idea because I have some cosmetic damage from years of activity and dogs and hyper teenagers and hard bouncing on bumpy dirt roads and you name it. Black would cover that pretty well.
I never thought about it, but I think I may consider it...
I'm already re-dying the carpet which is in great shape despite its age, so, yea, the interior roof stuff would be easy.
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I don’t know how you can mess up an iPhone. My 80 yr ol mom has been posting photos of her trip to Italy all week with her iPhone
Iv never had a problem.
All you pictures came in just fine via tapatalk
I don’t think I’d be able to find the post again. I believe it was on instagram.
https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/vinyl-and-fabric-paint/p/dupli-color-flat-black-vinyl-fabric-spray-paint-11oz/645639_0_0
This product is what I remember him using.
Masking off the plastic bits like lights n things. Imagine you would have to scuff the other hard surfaces a little and clean well with a solvent to make sure it bonds well.
Black roof in there would look pretty killer and since all the other things are out. Lots more simple
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I like the idea because I have some cosmetic damage from years of activity and dogs and hyper teenagers and hard bouncing on bumpy dirt roads and you name it. Black would cover that pretty well.
I never thought about it, but I think I may consider it...
I'm already re-dying the carpet which is in great shape despite its age, so, yea, the interior roof stuff would be easy.
I’m not sure if with the sun roof you would be able to pull it down with out any damage or a crease. But might be worth looking into. Or if ya need some new glass in this process pull the windshield and slip it out the front window and have a good surface to spray instead of the overhead idea
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Black would show more, go or stay with darker grey.
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Black would show more, go or stay with darker grey.
Your out of your mind! Black would only show two things more. Dog hair which can be cleaned up and coffee creamer.
I don’t picture coffee creamer being an issue in the truck unless don picks up a habit of Starbucks.
Grey on the other hand shows black marks from grease hands, brown from coffee or soda splashs, all of which don’t clean off easy with out discoloration of the grey
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JMHO :beercheers:
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I dropped off the interior parts just now at the upholstery shop.
Before I left, I was looking at that headliner. There are a ton of light gray trim pieces made of plastic holding a bunch of stuff down. Dome lights, an ovhd console, a sunroof, and the other trim. I wonder what a black headliner would look like with the light gray trim pieces. In my mind that is not looking very good, although having just sat in Duane's Ram3500 with a black headliner, I have to say, it makes things look a lot better, cooler too somehow.
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I’d say paint them all
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Here's the interior dropped off at the upholstery shop and a hint of the new color scheme
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^^^^^^^Helpful I-phone orientation^^^^^^^^^^^^
You take the pic in the correct orientation
Then you copy it to the computer,
Where the orientation checks out OK, again
Then you post it online
and it changes, of course
Because Apple products are so easy to use and compatible with everything
(My money says only democrats and liberals build Apple products)
Just like the democrats, the things apple products don't actually work!
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Democrats just build them, or is it only democrats that buy them and can't use them?
;)
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Democrats just build them, or is it only democrats that buy them and can't use them?
;)
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All from the man driving a EV lol
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Democrats just build them, or is it only democrats that buy them and can't use them?
;)
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All from the man driving The most American made vehicle on sale anywhere
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FIFY David
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^^^ good point .
Edit: to expand on that, I, like all of us here, appreciates well made items. Whether it's a tool, a piece of furniture, or a perfectly straight brick wall.
When I received the Starlink system the first thing I noticed was the physical quality. The heft of the routers, and the quality of the power/data weather resistant cords. I should've taken pics.
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My problem is the massive use of taxpayer dollars (100s of Billions) to build these charging stations and not letting the free market create them as the demand increases. Government is spending money, driving inflation, crippling the common man to pursue their wet dream of a green economy and electric cars (powered by coal)
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^^^ good point .
Edit: to expand on that, I, like all of us here, appreciates well made items. Whether it's a tool, a piece of furniture, or a perfectly straight brick wall.
When I received the Starlink system the first thing I noticed was the physical quality. The heft of the routers, and the quality of the power/data weather resistant cords. I should've taken pics.
OK Don, im going to do a little DOT.
Ken what you just said about the Starlink system if how it should always be with USA made equipment. just a quick sidenote on that system its 100% built AND packaged right here in USA. lots more going on and I will share will the time comes.
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My problem is the massive use of taxpayer dollars (100s of Billions) to build these charging stations and not letting the free market create them as the demand increases. Government is spending money, driving inflation, crippling the common man to pursue their wet dream of a green economy and electric cars (powered by coal.
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But they say it helps!!!
How many gas stations did they build?
How do you think a farm would run if they ran it?
My email was down for 2 days, drove me nuts. Kinda like the old days,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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^^^ good point .
Edit: to expand on that, I, like all of us here, appreciates well made items. Whether it's a tool, a piece of furniture, or a perfectly straight brick wall.
When I received the Starlink system the first thing I noticed was the physical quality. The heft of the routers, and the quality of the power/data weather resistant cords. I should've taken pics.
Ken,
Simply put, I believe this Tesla car is the highest quality vehicle built in the world, period. I keep finding more and more super high-quality parts and assembly methods. Just found out the side door glass is actually doubled. Makes it stronger and quieter. Never saw that except in up-armored vehicles, but they had a bunch of laminations...
It is the benchmark when it comes to quality. It has the best engineering that mankind can contrive. It is assembled in the most state-of-the-art assembly building that the industry has ever put together. It is assembled by machines and American workers, at least for the cars selling in the US market. The technology is so far ahead of every other manufacturer that the industry's best engineer, Sandy Muro says to every other car manufacturer on earth, "Copy Tesla or die."
It is faster than nearly every other car on the planet. It is so cheap to operate, when compared to a car or truck, it's almost free. Its warranty exceeds any car manufactured. It is the largest collection of state-of-the-art technologies, that likely only DARPA could top. There really is no comparing it to any (ANY) other cars. On top of that, the software is just as advanced. And it actually all works. I haven't run into any glitches with mine, none. It is the single safest car on earth. It's faster, smarter, cheaper to operate, most aerodynamic, has a better warranty, and is in such high demand that upon delivery you can easily make $3K-$5K more than you paid for it after taxes. People will buy your car in a day or two simply because they can't get one without waiting a few months. I am probably going to order a model Y for the wife. Delivery is slated for April 2023. That's how much in demand these cars are!
I mean what can I tell you? My car's chassis is a casting! Yes, it is a poured aluminum, one-piece casting in the front, one in the rear, the center is a very low-slung titanium housed battery, and two side rails...That's it. Can you point to any other car whose chassis is a one-piece poured ultra-strong singular component? Add to that the front and rear power train modules, some fenders and doors, some glass, and an interior and that's all the car has for parts. It has about as many moving parts as two wheelbarrows. The interior wood, is, WOOD!. The seats are fantastic. The ride is out of this world. You'll have to go to a world-class merc or the like to equal it. Factory, my car will corner at 1.08G...STOCK!
So, a guy stopped by my house just up from the LS nationals in Bowling green. He purchased my 37" tires. He saw my T-car and shook his head. He said there were two Teslas at the meet and no corvette there could touch either one. No Vette could out accelerate the stock Tesla, and he said there was no corvette, prepped or otherwise that could out corner the T-cars on the road course. He said if they want to showcase LS cars in the future, he felt they will need to prohibit Tesla cars from entering the competition.
Just name an area to compare to a normal car, just one. Do it and dive into the comparison and you'll start to see just how far out in front these T-cars are. That T-car is going to upend and beat almost anything you could show up with regardless of the price. Unlike the early T-cars, the paint and panel alignment are now perfect. I don't know of a quality issue with the car. They just work. Buy it, then drive it for three years, then sell it for what you paid for it and do it again. Where have you ever been able to do that with a random production car? Anything? At any time, ever? There is simply no competition out there and Elon has gotten so far out in front at this point that no one is going to catch him.
In closing, I'd just say, drive one. Drive one and you'll begin to see what I am talking about. Owning a tesla now is sort of like getting an early computer when everyone else balked at the notion. Then you suddenly found out just how much you could do, all while no one around you had the slightest idea what you were on to. That's what it is like now with respect to these T-cars. We are in the final days of the T-car being an insider thing. Mainstream is about to get the memo. Drive one but keep a good ICE truck for now...
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I hear Nascar is going run EVs soon. But it would be EV vs EV, not EV vs gas.
Problem is they control you and know everything you do. I can't charge at my prop, yet. EVs can't really tow yet either, sure that will come.
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I hear Nascar is going run EVs soon. But it would be EV vs EV, not EV vs gas.
Problem is they control you and know everything you do. I can't charge at my prop, yet. EVs can't really tow yet either, sure that will come.
New batteries are coming out now. These Iron based batteries are 2X larger and 5X the juice. They will give the towing EV some decent range. Technology is often driven by money, and the big money and market are chasing EV's. So, something newer and more capable is just over the horizon.
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I hear Nascar is going run EVs soon. But it would be EV vs EV, not EV vs gas.
Problem is they control you and know everything you do. I can't charge at my prop, yet. EVs can't really tow yet either, sure that will come.
I saw a Rivian at the campground a couple weekends ago, I can only assume they towed their trailer down with it - had the hitch platform in the receiver. Nope - not for me. I love my diesel.
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I like my diesel too.
So far tests have been horrible for EV towing.
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I like my diesel too.
So far tests have been horrible for EV towing.
Love my diesel as well. Going to be hard to come up with an EV solution to heavy towing.
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I peeled back the carpet and felt pad from the rear and prepped it for installation of the dynamat. I am amazed at how well this truck is surviving the elements. I am at nearly zero rust anywhere (Underbelly included).
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I discovered the sharp edges of that thicker than normal foil can be sharp. There are drops of blood scattered over the interior now...Ouch!
I tiled the installation, overlapping large and small panels of the sticky stuff
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Rear section, Done!
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The front was vastly more complicated. There is a large wiring bundle bisecting the cabin beneath the front seating which is also attached to a couple of control modules. Additionally, the carpet wraps around the stack of something beneath the console and lies in part beneath the trunk-lines of the wiring harness. That made the front, especially, the passenger side quite challenging. I solved the problem by cutting the material down into approximately 8"x8" pieces, then sliding them up under the felt to their final position.
I vacuumed and cleaned everything prior to applying any Dynamat. It all turned out quite well.
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...And, Dave, I think that although I would really like to go with your suggestion to paint the interior headliner and trim black, it would be a pretty big job and not without frustration. So, I decided to keep it all stock, and just clean it up the best I can. I am using Simple green for the hard parts cleaning task, and some commercial carpet shampoo and cleaner to do the carpet prior to re-dying that a uniform black.
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Totally understand. Pulling headliners down isn’t much fun. I think it would be simple in a reg cab. But there simply isn’t much room for error on the crew cabs.
Can’t wait to hear the review on the sound Mat throughout the whole cab. Did ya do the back wall also?
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Totally understand. Pulling headliners down isn’t much fun. I think it would be simple in a reg cab. But there simply isn’t much room for error on the crew cabs.
Can’t wait to hear the review on the sound Mat throughout the whole cab. Did ya do the back wall also?
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So far, I did not do that wall, but eyeballing it. It has a thick rubber and felt pad over it already, and of course, a seat in front of that. Removing it has me tearing out some plastic retainer at the very top which gave me a bunch of problems, so I left it alone and just cleaned it all up. I'd say, I'm not going to mess with it for now.
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Cleaned the carpet and headliner today. Took quite a while.
The carpet was heavily stained and soiled. The headliner was pretty dirty too. I don't think I have ever even wiped it down
The closeup of the carpet was the front of the seat in the driver's well, the dirtiest part of the carpet. It cleaned up very nicely
Next step will be dying the carpet again with a light spray of carpet dye/paint.
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The headliner cleaned up very nicely as well
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I purchased this little Bissel machine to do the handy work. I used standard detergent mixed according to directions. I did, however pre-treat the surfaces with simple green and let it sit there for 15-20 minutes
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Looks good Don.
My headliner needs some attention too and I have a little older version of the green machine, works good.
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Today I sprayed the whole carpet then scrubbed the door panels, then gave everything that was vinyl or hard plastic a liberal, soaking coat of armor-all. I'll topcoat that with something else to get myself some more of a barrier.
Seems I have to defend against dog hair and dog slobber most of all. I carry 1-3 dogs to/from the farm whenever I go down, and they are the ones who contributed to such an awful mess beneath the seats.
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This guy, who someone (not me) named Chester, is always hanging around or sitting on top of you (literally!)
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Here is what I am going to do this time to try to save my carpet and interior.
Its a product from 4Knines to keep the mutts in the back seat. It is the only one that goes all the way to the floor which gives the dogs a lot more room.
I am thinking of only installing the small right-side seat and leaving out the two-thirds that is normally folded there. My reasoning is that these days I almost never haul even another person, let alone several. If I was going to the farm with a bunch, I'd just switch up to the Suburban or make em hold on tight to the hood or bumper (legal in Kentucky!!!!!) (Not really) (But had all you people from communist states wondering) (Think I'll stop using parentheses)
If I left out the larger section of seats, I think I'd find a piece of Molle and add some bags/pouches to it to store my routine stuff. Most of the time I am hauling dogs or a pump, or a cylinder, or a bunch of tools, and opening up that space will make that easier too.
What do you all think? Good idea to leave it out, or toss it back in?
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So, Chester the molester huh?
I was going to recommend one of the doggy things, but you got it.
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So, Chester the molester huh?
I was going to recommend one of the doggy things, but you got it.
I've called him "Chester the molester" but Miss Kat does not like that very much
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Put the seats in. You spent good money on those covers.
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I’d toss the dogs in the wife suv. She’s the one who purchased them hairy monsters
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or when it's not hot as sin, in crates in the bed of the truck...
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or when it's not hot as sin, in crates in the bed of the truck...
He could just hack a window AC unit into the side of his truck cap and the dogs could ride in style in the back.
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...Bunch o' haters
Hatin' on ma dogs no less
Although Dave is correct...The western Dave...She brought those dogs into our lives. Now they are a royal PITA and chew up everything, but I love em'! Would have been nice if they never showed up in the first place, but now that they are here, she shows very little interest in them and they become my responsibility, so I try to treat them good and take them to the farm where they can romp like nature intended for them.
So I really only have one "real" vote, and that is to remount the total rear seat and not just the single seat...
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Do I get a gold star for paying attention and following instructions?
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Do I get a gold star for paying attention and following instructions?
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Awe Tex, do you need to feel validated? You haven't been hanging out in Austin too much now have ya?
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This guy, who someone (not me) named Chester, is always hanging around or sitting on top of you (literally!)
Is he an Australian shepherd?
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This guy, who someone (not me) named Chester, is always hanging around or sitting on top of you (literally!)
Is he an Australian shepherd?
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I think they are Bernese Mountain Dogs. Beautiful dogs, we had a Greater Swiss Mountain dog, same coloring and temperament except short haired.
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Why can't they ride in the back. Now I love dogs but,,,,,,,,,,
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This guy, who someone (not me) named Chester, is always hanging around or sitting on top of you (literally!)
Is he an Australian shepherd?
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Bernese Mountain Dog (Mountain mutt variety of the dumb-butt class of lazy mountain mutts)
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Why can't they ride in the back. Now I love dogs but,,,,,,,,,,
Winter time, Afrim!
Anytime when it might get warm, no ventilation back there so I don't take a chance of them overheating.
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This guy, who someone (not me) named Chester, is always hanging around or sitting on top of you (literally!)
Is he an Australian shepherd?
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I think they are Bernese Mountain Dogs. Beautiful dogs, we had a Greater Swiss Mountain dog, same coloring and temperament except short haired.
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Right after grooming and a bath, did yours head out for the nearest pond and then mud hole?
Wondering if the breeds had that trait in common.
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Do I get a gold star for paying attention and following instructions?
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And speaking up before the deed has been done, nonetheless!
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Do I get a gold star for paying attention and following instructions?
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Awe Tex, do you need to feel validated? You haven't been hanging out in Austin too much now have ya?
^^^ funny right there ;-)
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Do I get a gold star for paying attention and following instructions?
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And speaking up before the deed has been done, nonetheless!
Now I think that does. Usually we all backseat cowboy dons things. Lol
Or is it he does things and posts pictures knowing that he wouldn’t listen to what any of us suggest anyway and asks for advise After the fact lol
I’ll go back to my time out now
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^^^^^^^^^^^Agitator^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
;-)
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I’m with Charles. Put all of the seats back.
Now mine fold the other way but regardless good to keep where they’re supposed to be.
Otherwise you’re storing in the way somewhere else.
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I’m with Charles. Put all of the seats back.
Now mine fold the other way but regardless good to keep where they’re supposed to be.
Otherwise you’re storing in the way somewhere else.
I think this logic makes good sense from my time out corner. Storing them stupid bench seats would be a pain. Can’t set anything in it, can stack em on a bottom shelf and lifting them on the top would cause a back injury or worse an ol man broken Hip falling off a ladder.
Still say keep them mitts out of the truk.
Did you pull your cabin air filter?
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I’m with Charles. Put all of the seats back.
Now mine fold the other way but regardless good to keep where they’re supposed to be.
Otherwise you’re storing in the way somewhere else.
I think this logic makes good sense from my time out corner. Storing them stupid bench seats would be a pain. Can’t set anything in it, can stack em on a bottom shelf and lifting them on the top would cause a back injury or worse an ol man broken Hip falling off a ladder.
Still say keep them mitts out of the truk.
Did you pull your cabin air filter?
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Copy that Dave and gents
I'll reinstall the seats, all of them. I'm hearing sound advice and listening to it, I concur.
I pulled the cabin air filter and it was Nastee!
New one is taped into place.
Plan to visit the upholstery shop today to see how things are coming along.
Have the new dog hammock thing in hand. Well build and sturdy looking. Now it's just awaiting the finished interior to reinstall and get moving.
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It's Thursday and the seats and headrests and everything else has been upholstered. I couldn't pick the stuff up because I need a pick-up. Good having my son home with his GMC Canyon...That will get them!
Here are the front buckets
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The console lid was recovered as well
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Here's the small part of the rear seat
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And the remaining seat section:
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The cup holder thing was recovered as well as all headrests. The only part remaining stock is the seat backs. LS.Com provided sections of vinyl for them, but Tony felt they would look best if they remained stock. I agree.
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Those look great! I hate to see the cost though, north of 2?
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Those look great! I hate to see the cost though, north of 2?
The seat covers alone were close to $1100. I think it will cost around $500 for the labor, so $1600 for everything.
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Ok, so the covers from LS1 were 1100 for all? Not bad really.
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Looking good chief
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Looks good. Imagine that roof black now
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Looks good. Imagine that roof black now
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Sorry, missed that one...Roof black?
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Day 1 of the interior re-installation. I picked them up around 1100, and I would have had it all done today, but with my warrior back home on leave, I am not pulling all-dayers in the garage. Plus, tonight the remaining pre-ranger has a football game, their homecoming. He, BTW has amassed an impressive number of tackles and is rated in the top five in this area. Now that he plays both sides of the ball, he is having one great last year of HS football. I played that kid from the fourth grade all the way to now, eight years in a row.
Anyway, here is the start:
The console lid is leather
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Next up I installed the pifreral interior plastic trim after cleaning it thoroughly. I gave each push clip a dab of grease and put all that back together. It fit well even with the "Thicker" carpet
After that, I slid the driver's seat in. I wiped the underside of that down and regreased all the jack screw mechanisms
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Next up, the other front seat:
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The contrasting double stitching is subtle but at the same time is noticeable.
The dog looked saddened by all this. Maybe that's because the female is in heat, and he is missing a vital necessary part...
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Have you seen these typ of deals that mount to the side of your console?
https://greymantactical.com/products/11x6rmp-console-door-dash
There may be other brands that might fit better but this is one I was looking at
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Have you seen these typ of deals that mount to the side of your console?
https://greymantactical.com/products/11x6rmp-console-door-dash
There may be other brands that might fit better but this is one I was looking at
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So, is that some sort of metal MOLLE? If so, that would be pretty useful and allow for a bunch of customizations.
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Have you seen these typ of deals that mount to the side of your console?
https://greymantactical.com/products/11x6rmp-console-door-dash
There may be other brands that might fit better but this is one I was looking at
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So, is that some sort of metal MOLLE? If so, that would be pretty useful and allow for a bunch of customizations.
Look at their website. They have tons of options for everything.
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Have you seen these typ of deals that mount to the side of your console?
https://greymantactical.com/products/11x6rmp-console-door-dash
There may be other brands that might fit better but this is one I was looking at
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So, is that some sort of metal MOLLE? If so, that would be pretty useful and allow for a bunch of customizations.
Look at their website. They have tons of options for everything.
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I did
That stuff is SUPER EXPENSIVE!!!!!
Man, all they do is to laser or water jet some steel plate, then powder coat it...I'd think it would be inexpensive.
on the flip side, ought to be durable and looks pretty good.
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Have you seen these typ of deals that mount to the side of your console?
https://greymantactical.com/products/11x6rmp-console-door-dash
There may be other brands that might fit better but this is one I was looking at
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So, is that some sort of metal MOLLE? If so, that would be pretty useful and allow for a bunch of customizations.
Look at their website. They have tons of options for everything.
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I did
That stuff is SUPER EXPENSIVE!!!!!
Man, all they do is to laser or water jet some steel plate, then powder coat it...I'd think it would be inexpensive.
on the flip side, ought to be durable and looks pretty good.
If the last few years has shown us anything. Nothing is cheap $$$! There might be other brands out there.
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Sort of finished up the installation of the seats. I still have to clean up and install the smallish floor plastic covers, but the seat install is complete to the point of being able to use the truck once again.
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Fit and finish is very good here
I'll get some leather conditioner rubbed in before setting the glutes in place.
Next, clean up the floor mats, clean and reinstall the plastic escunsions, and perhaps toss in the dog hammock
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Very nice
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Very nice :likebutton:
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Pretty sharp.
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There ya have it!!!
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The dog hammock/isolation device works pretty well so far.
Beneath it I retained the weather tech floormat
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It mounts very simply by strapping around the base of the front and rear headrests. It has a center mesh panel that you can unzip if wanted
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The fold-out flap acts like a doormat of sorts
Mesh is a good idea. Keeps you in sight of the dogs so that they do not get anxious and decide to start chewing up your new seats and door panels
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Almost seems confining once you're used to the whole back seat. Should keep the hair down.
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Almost seems confining once you're used to the whole back seat. Should keep the hair down.
Hopefully keep the hair down!
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After running through the truck wash today to wash off all the mud it collected, I noticed the hood had become hazy looking.
On closer examination, I noticed it was like a haze to the clear coat!
I decided there is no better time than the present, so I took some Maguire's mirror glaze and got after it. Well, it turned out so shiny, I gave it a coat of ceramic wax stuff as well. That made the hood so shiny that it showed off just how hazy the rest of the truck had gotten. So, after a couple of hours of polishing and applying a ceramic coating, it ended up looking really good.
This truck is 11 + years old now and still has only 140,000 on the odometer. It has a more or less, renewed leather interior, so bringing up the exterior makes so much sense. It is a great/powerful/reliable truck that has served me well over the years. Perhaps it will outlive me!
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Dang that looks good!
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Dang that looks good!
It's really holding up! Isn't yours about the same?
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I need to do some fine tuning after the smog reflash. Speedo is off and that gives me the anti lock warning.
Got over 20mpg getting that bucket setup, but runs great. 250k
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I need to do some fine tuning after the smog reflash. Speedo is off and that gives me the anti lock warning.
Got over 20mpg getting that bucket setup, but runs great. 250k
Mine is running around 17.5-18 mpg most of the time.
These days I only drive it maybe once every week to ten days. Same-same with the Suburban.
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That bronze color wheel looks really good.
Did you ever reattach your spear tire after the dogs chewed it off?
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Whats a "spear tire"??
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Whats a "spear tire"??
Auto correct spare
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LOL
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That bronze color wheel looks really good.
Did you ever reattach your spear tire after the dogs chewed it off?
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Funny that you mention that (Reattaching the spare tire) On the list for today or tomorrow.
But:
1. Have a Bengals game to watch today
2. After the game have to drop off the Jeep for the 5.13 gears
But yea, gonna fix that for sure!
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Confession: Now that I changed to the 35" tires, I really don't see much of a difference, and the truck looks silly with those roller skates on there.
Just have to keep reminding myself how much the big tires rubbed off-road
Wait, I know how to fix that!
Open up the wheel wells and bolt on 40's!
Yea, that sounds like a good idea (NOT)
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2k for those!
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I finally got off my buttox and repaired and remounted the spare tire.
Coming out of this back surgery and solidly on the mend, it is sooo good to get back to working and projects.
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Gentlemen,
I am closing this chapter and opening a new one
The Duramax truck has served me well, but my needs have exceeded its capabilities. Therefore, I have placed the truck for sale in Marketplace
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/949982372609838
I have made another truck purchase which I will soon introduce here on the build thread pages.
The Duramax truck has been great and it currently is in great condition with, really nothing major wrong with it. I feel it will work hard for many more years, but just not for me. Honestly, I know it is just a metal thing, but I will miss seeing it in my driveway. I hope it finds a really good home.
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OH MY.......
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Yep, change is in the wind...
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Fair price for whats been done. Market will tell.
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Fair price for whats been done. Market will tell.
I am having some interest. The selling season is still 2-3 weeks away. When it warms up, I will tack on another $1,000