but at least your a mobile old salty warrant again ready to snap heads at a moments notice. ;D
I saw some pics the other day of some intercooler pipes and turbo housing that somebody had done in OD... Looked AWESOME
Different than dmax forum, lol, trucks liking good don, love the sight.Good to see ya over here!
You sir, are brave! I have always been deeply intimidated by transmissions and their inner-workings. Looks like you have a good handle on the build though! I am impressed.-Not brave
Great work Don, again what book is that you got.The book is the FSM right from Dodge for the 1991 W250 series trucks with the diesel supplement.
When doing some tranny work on my Dmax I used some foil cooking tubs from the dollar store for drain pans, soaking clutch packs and such. Nice and then you throw them away.
My service lit is showing the front clutch stackup as followsTrouble is, we are mixing apples and oranges with using the FSM, ATSG, or similar when dealing with aftermarket parts. FSM says a steel goes against the piston. Makes sense as the steel isn't turning and a clutch is. So putting a clutch against the piston would cause it to wear the piston face very quickly. I can't believe the RevMax directions at this point, it just doesn't make any sense.
steel/dis/steel/disc/steel/disc/reaction plate. clutch stackups can vary according to the unit but it looks like either way a steel goes against the pressure plate. are you running one of the thinner pressure plates designed to allow for more frictions/steels in the assembly?
page 577 shows the clearance for the OD unit, you dont need the special tool, just a known flat bar of a given thickness. the special tool is .5 in thick so use the specs provided but substitute whatever thickness your "special tool" is. IIRC I used the shank of a prybar (it was the only thing I had that would span across the case). It is a tricky measurment I`ll admit.
One more thing, I dont see an alignment shaft in the OD assembly as it was going back together in the press, you will need to have the splines in there all aligned in order to get the OD unit back onto the output shaft, and that giant honkin spring needs to be compressed in order for those splines to be free to align them. I used my old intermediate shaft and cut it down in length a bit to fit in the press (I put in a new int shaft due to the 5 pinion front planetary having diff splines than the alum 4 pinion deal requiring the new int shaft).
sounds like its time to call mike at Inglewood transmission?
I like the 4.10 ratio for your application, and the way the rest of the oil change is going, I would upgrade the front to 35 spline shafts and either a selectable locker or power lok.
My '87 Chevy has a power lok with 35 spline inners and outers. It also has a Detroit locker in the 14 bolt. I have been able to get through or back out of places I would not have been if the front was open. It is not my daily driver, but do run it all year long and plow snow in the winter. I don't remember if you went through the NP205 yet, but consider a twin stick.
With some of the questions you have with your transmission build, have you considered calling Goerend? http://www.goerend.com/Not out of ideas yet.
They made several of the parts in house that you are missing from your kit. In addition, they could probably refer you to someone that is near you to help with finishing your transmission.
As for re-gearing....This thing will have plenty of torque to move mountains with any gear. The 3.54 will get the best mileage, and the 4.10 will run best at crawl speeds off road in rough situations
What will be the most efficient (both cost effective/power useage)
What is the end result for D2 going to be? (tire size/extra weight added)
Which gear ratio will work best for some grunt when you need it, yet good for everyday use?
This thing will have plenty of torque to move mountains with any gear. The 3.54 will get the best mileage, and the 4.10 will run best at crawl speeds off road in rough situations
Staying 3.54 makes the most sense, but adding a traction device like the new air locker Randys supplied for the other Dana 60 housing I won. But that one is again earmarked for duty in the Big Chevy
Leave it (as far as ratios go). You'll have plenty of torque to push those tires while maintaining mileage....which is hugely important when fuel reserves become a precious commodity.
But, I have little experience when it comes to the strength of dodge axles after adding power.....maybe they're known for becoming metal splinters when you step on the fuel lever, IDK.
I'd stay with it until you know the gears won't work for you, which I think has been determined that they 'should'. At some point the reality is they don't, that may be the time to do an all out oil change. So I think I'm voting stay with it until needs say otherwise.Yea, I thinking that now might be a good time to pull that axle and do the number on it. So I could
Now, if you're thinking locker at this time, then thought must go into building it up only once.
Ken,
Had some projects for C-Max set up for today. then a buyer showed up, then the rain came, then it was time to rehearse for tonight's presentation, then...
Ken,
Had some projects for C-Max set up for today. then a buyer showed up, then the rain came, then it was time to rehearse for tonight's presentation, then...
Buyer for CMax?
No, for the Tac-Gator
Not using it at all
Only 22 hours on it since purchased 2 years ago!
Alright. back from Vegas/SEMA, I'm stepping in here to throw my hat in the ring. YZLD60-3-35 YK D60-F YHC70001 YP KP-001 AK D60-F ARBRDCKMA12 and YSPSP-028 are already in your possession for C-MAX and will fit nicely with the 3.54 gears that you SHOULD keep. the only thing you're short is the chromoly axle kit with 35 spline upgraded outers, YA W26028 including the SuperJoints will finish you off nicely. This combo gives you:
An air operated selectable locker built with fully forged chromoly case and internals
An air compressor that you have already installed under the bed
The front differential master overhaul kit with king pin rebuild kits and hub bearing/seal kits for both sides
Yukon Hardcore locking hubs that make the factory hubs look like toys
4340 hardened chromoly axles and 25% larger than stock competition level u/joints that are rebuildable. we're talking King of the Hammers desert racing level joints.
This is also a very handy tool: http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx
you can click the "transmission gear ratio chart" link and bring up your trans, enter gear ratio, tire size, speed and trans ratio and get RPM at any chosen combination.
You can always get more fun stuff for C-MAX when she's ready.
Alright. back from Vegas/SEMA, I'm stepping in here to throw my hat in the ring. YZLD60-3-35 YK D60-F YHC70001 YP KP-001 AK D60-F ARBRDCKMA12 and YSPSP-028 are already in your possession for C-MAX and will fit nicely with the 3.54 gears that you SHOULD keep. the only thing you're short is the chromoly axle kit with 35 spline upgraded outers, YA W26028 including the SuperJoints will finish you off nicely. This combo gives you:Hey Tate,
An air operated selectable locker built with fully forged chromoly case and internals
An air compressor that you have already installed under the bed
The front differential master overhaul kit with king pin rebuild kits and hub bearing/seal kits for both sides
Yukon Hardcore locking hubs that make the factory hubs look like toys
4340 hardened chromoly axles and 25% larger than stock competition level u/joints that are rebuildable. we're talking King of the Hammers desert racing level joints.
This is also a very handy tool: http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx
you can click the "transmission gear ratio chart" link and bring up your trans, enter gear ratio, tire size, speed and trans ratio and get RPM at any chosen combination.
You can always get more fun stuff for C-MAX when she's ready.
however with 37" tires you are starting to get into the range. 40" and bigger, definitely upgrade. But then again with upwards of 1300 ft/lbs of torque, I just might be there already.
I wholeheartedly believe that you will want the chromoly axles, but agree that you are not in competition and the superjoints may be more maintenance heavy than they are useful. I would get the standard chromo kit, and I do believe that you need it with your power to tire size ratio. I absolutely believe that you should keep the 3.54 gears, and that you should re-bearing/rebuild every aspect of this front diff, keeping with the theme of making sure things are how they should be, new or better. I'll send you a parts list. Check your personal email.however with 37" tires you are starting to get into the range. 40" and bigger, definitely upgrade. But then again with upwards of 1300 ft/lbs of torque, I just might be there already.
When it doubt, go big or go home. At least that's what I've heard, I'm still stock.
Not sure if you know, your Dana 60 will have 35 spline inners already. Dodge went to the smaller inner shafts in '94 when they went to the coil spring suspension.I didn't know until a few days ago, when Tate reminded me. He's from Randy's Ring and Pinion, a moderator here and on top of things!
You would think someone would have those. Might have to look outside of Kintucky, where they teach literature. hahahaFound em bro!
Have you tried this place Don? On their site, they even except your own "artwork"....kinda looks as tho they do everything.
http://www.signarama.com/home
Yeah, too bad about the font. At least you've found one now, and now you know what size you need. Wow that front end is really empty looking.Got a cool looking "banner" coming in a week or so, that looks proper to this project.
Any word on the transmission woes?
I think it would be too long for that...It is over 7 feet long
I purchased 5. Two for SquareD, Two for C-Max, and one in case I screwed up.
Then I still have the girly ones left...Maybe I'll plaster them on the Frau's Caddy
Well, that's the style for the T-Shirt, but not the truck...I think it would be too long for that...It is over 7 feet long
I purchased 5. Two for SquareD, Two for C-Max, and one in case I screwed up.
Then I still have the girly ones left...Maybe I'll plaster them on the Frau's Caddy
Time to break out the stencils and cardboard and return to the lower enlisted/NCO time frame and spray paint, in keeping with font stylization.
Well, that's the style for the T-Shirt, but not the truck...
So, note to self.....
Never touch a transmission... Check...
Everything else looks great. Keep pushing forward. :)
So, note to self.....
Never touch a transmission... Check...
Everything else looks great. Keep pushing forward. :)
It's definitely a push and push back.
Start on transmission, then 2 weeks later find out you can't do it
Try to find a trans guy...he does not return calls
Pull front axle
Axle guy is busy, takes a week to 10 days longer just to get it there
And that's why this thing is taking so long...
But in the end it will get done (I think) and it will have all been worth it (I think)
Those decals look much better...Copy that!
Immediately appears you have found the right man for the job!I think so!
If you bring over all the ferrous metal parts; case, yokes, covers etc, I can strip and de-rust them in my electrolytic rust removal tank...
What are you talking about?
I just did...
Practice, practice, practice, maybe need to take a few photos as you tear things down?
did he take pics and do a detailed write up or no? :DNate,
Don one thing to look into while doing the wiring is to install a brake light interrupter switch so that if your being followed you can defeat those pesky brake lights.
don, i believe the mil light switches are 24v.
We'll hear it
But
Like always
There are a few wrinkles coming right up
The knee
I get a new titanium one 26 Dec.
The recovery from that
then back to a normal life...
Things are coming right along, lookin good. Bad news about the knee.
Well good to hear the knee will be fixed up finally. Have a few folks I know that have had them done. One fella was nearly crippled, hobbled along with a cane, really done. He had both done at separate times, and is a new man now. Wouldn't say he could run a marathon, but that was never his style either. Wishing you good luck with the knee when the time comes.Thanks!
You know, that motor and tranny is just darn purdy, the white still needs to grow on me though.
Scored a 14 bolt FF with looks like 4.11s (matches the dana 60) for just $120 yesterday.
You know, that motor and tranny is just darn purdy, the white still needs to grow on me though.
Scored a 14 bolt FF with looks like 4.11s (matches the dana 60) for just $120 yesterday.
do you know what year that housing is? ^^ 84-85 are the bad years with the small pilot bearing.
Scored a 14 bolt FF with looks like 4.11s (matches the dana 60) for just $120 yesterday.
Not wanting to trust that old HF 1500 lb engine hoist leveler, I opted for their biggest one today. Here it is:
Or, leave the 52's so you have or upgrade them all. Keeping the same length keeps spare parts handy and leave springs do break!
Get that sucker done.....almost time for combat max!!!Done!!!!!!!!
Fine, leave us in suspense...... ??? Axel decision was........ ::)
Big D,
just an fyi, this guy seems to have it all.http://hartford.craigslist.org/ptd/4786438970.html
missed all the DOT stuff before I responded 8). Be at peace big D; all the parts are going to sing a symphony for you in that front diff.
I like the idea of the center (east-west) disconnect. No ends hanging loose to catch or line up.
How about just a piece of square tube doing the same thing? Same concept as you have with the bolts.
Use a spring to push 1 side onto the other for normal driving. For a disconnect just us a cable and pull back the sleeve hooking it back onto,,,,,,well thats easy!
Man you are making some great progress on your build. I'm interested to see how your sway bar comes out. I'm going to have to do something different on my front one as well.I have been playing with the Sway bar thing. Getting a stout coupling and getting either half well anchored will be key to getting it to work. So far I have looked at welding on nuts, 3/4" extensions, a 30 spline end from an axle shaft, and a 10 spline PTO shaft from a tractor. Not happy with anything yet...so I'm still in trial and error. The shop building the axle says Monday is the day, so Tuesday-Wednesday that thing gets reassembled and tucked back under Square D
On the sway bar I've thought about trying to use one of these.You're tracking on the anti rock bar thing
https://polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-Antirock-Sway-Bar-Kits-p-17993.html (https://polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-Antirock-Sway-Bar-Kits-p-17993.html)
Haven't really looked at it close enough to see if it would work on the front of these trucks. I do have a factory one but when I did the steering gear box support mod that closed off the factory holes on the frame to mount the sway bar too.
even just a good ol pull pin on a heim joint or similar. Fold it, have another place to pin it and your done. Less mass, simple and less stress near the end of the bar.
even just a good ol pull pin on a heim joint or similar. Fold it, have another place to pin it and your done. Less mass, simple and less stress near the end of the bar.
Too simple to be part of this thread!
However, I agree whole heartedly.
Firstestest, is the fixin' of Square D
::)
eyes B needin' basic transportation, and that truck is just a couple rungs of the ladder above peddlin'
So that's the next big adventure. I figure a solid week of well, cutting, grindin' replacin' kleenin' and discoverin' and that old bird will be ready to carry my happy butt around while I accumulate wounds and scar tissue cutting apart the Chebby!
But, yes, I'm gigglin' just a tad bit!
So I just came across this in the Cmax thread that Ken is tirelessly moving over and it made me LOL for real.Firstestest, is the fixin' of Square D
::)
eyes B needin' basic transportation, and that truck is just a couple rungs of the ladder above peddlin'
So that's the next big adventure. I figure a solid week of well, cutting, grindin' replacin' kleenin' and discoverin' and that old bird will be ready to carry my happy butt around while I accumulate wounds and scar tissue cutting apart the Chebby!
But, yes, I'm gigglin' just a tad bit!
This was last September from the date that Ken had pointed out.
Quite an oil change and a wee bit more than the predicted week...
Carry on then... ::)
There was a bit of rust on the original 3.54 ring gear from disuse, but that is no issue since it will polish right off as soon as I get those innards turning under power some day soon.
Nice progress. Get that front axle in before Christmas! Be a nice present to yourself...OK, Ash, wilco!
Red Dog is saying, "give me a job.........or I do some freelance work for Harbor Freight"Right you are kind Sir!
Hmm, I can see this very thing in my future.If that red dog would have been closer, she would have gotten the nod...I promise you that!
Think I would have painted Red Dog before the picker though. Speaking of pickers am RR mine now so it folds flatter.
Looking really good and top notch work as always.
Looking really good and top notch work as always.
Hi Eric
Do you have a build thread going on over here?
Jim
Looking really good and top notch work as always.
Hi Eric
Do you have a build thread going on over here?
Jim
Hey Jim!
Welcome to the site.
No I do not yet, I told Don once I start making some noteable progress I would start one over here.
You need to start one on the gold ramcharger your building.
I've been thinking about doing Jungle's new frame plates as well. I will see how you like yours before I get in touch with him. Only bad part on my end is my frame has already been powder coated, I guess I will just have to touch it up with some gloss black enamel paint if I go with them.
Good luck on your knee surgery Don wish the best for you.
Wow. You had an interesting day. Hope all is well with HH6 and the pre ranger. That makes for a bit of excitement for all.
Good to hear they're all home and 'well' as they can be given their day.
Jungle makes some good looking parts, and good work as always.
Dang Don sorry to hear about your family, but good to hear that they are doing much better now.
So on the driver side what all prevented you from using the plates Jungle sent?
Thank God your family is safe and able to be at home! May everyone heal quickly and without any lasting effects.Thanks!
God Bless you all-
Wow, rough day! Good to hear about the SRX, just too bad your family was inside at the time (I despise those cars). Hope everyone heals ok , including you with the upcoming op.Ken what do you think about the Honda SUV's?
Acura MDX is what I've got my Mrs. in - big, good mileage for size and truly SAFE from crash standpoint. No more pricey device wise and they last mechanically. Luxury version of Honda Pilot too.
Acura MDX is what I've got my Mrs. in - big, good mileage for size and truly SAFE from crash standpoint. No more pricey device wise and they last mechanically. Luxury version of Honda Pilot too.
Not a bad choice for sure. My personal favorite, for fancy dancy, would be a Lexus GX460....v-8 power (LX if you wanna go crazy!). My second choice would be just a good ole Yukon or Tahoe (notice I didn't say Escalade?). They ride great and have plenty of power, and hold up decent in a crash.
Now, with the mrs being known for.....a.....well, not being a great driver, maybe a plain Honda or Toyota suv would be a better choice. I'm banking on the fact that Big D loves his family more than his fleet, so I would stick with the nicer, upper end choices, since they typically protect the passengers better with 6000 airbags, halon systems, and scuba gear (for unintentional river crossings). JMHO
Well...Back to Don's chat thread I guess.
.....................
Well...Back to Don's chat thread I guess.
.....................
You asked. :pokefingerinface
....at 2 bucks a gallon, who cares about mileage. :)
Get her one of the new Ram 1500s with the 3.0 EcoDiesel, then liberally apply sparks and extra metal. 710 mi range, pretty good mileage for a truck, and the Crew Cabs have enough room.Bobby, you mean get me a 3.0L eco diesel dodge...
Bobby, you mean get me a 3.0L eco diesel dodge...
She's not a truck girl
She's a girly girl, pretty much complete polar opposite of me.
Nope she does not understand all of that. She knows big expensive things, a part of her DNA I wish I could rearrange. Things that sound like Cadillac, Mercedes, Acura, BMW, things like that. Caddy is on the low end btw...
I suggested she purchase her own car insurance today and that did not go very well for me. Right now I think I'll just drag an extra blanket over me in this dog house and wait out the storm going on in the house!
Don't even bother, guys. Best to just stand back and observe.
In silence...
Gonna throw in my input as well...Merry Christmas Ash
Bought my wife the new Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 3.0 liter eco diesel. Bought it in July. Still getting 25 mpg. She drives 15 miles one way to take kids to school everyday, and then the same to go pick them up. Add in her other running around town, and well, Im saying that the mileage is not hwy miles. Its a lot of stop and go, and she still is staying at 25 mpg. 700 miles on one fuel up. Get this, we traded in our Yukon XL on this vehicle. The Jeep has MORE leg room in the back seats than the Yukon XL !!! You do sacrifice on storage area, but, she has not complained. Basically, take a look at them before you rule them out Don. We absolutely love ours, and its cheaper than the Yukons... Plus you can get the summit, has the all wheel drive for those nasty winters you guys have up north. Just a thought.
Good luck with the knee, Big DonThanks bro!
And Merry Christmas everyone
Nice. Must be contagious:Great minds think alike...
(http://i.imgur.com/zI6ZGgT.jpg)
...this one is for my back bumper build.
You sayin' the springs you ordered fit a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton? must be a typo...Yep, sure do
I retract my blunt message, and in turn leave this nice one. :)
...most 1/2 tons I have worked on (from the 50s models til current) have lighter springs than the 3/4 tons. The variances would be "camper specials", "heavy half", or other heavy duty versions of the 1/2 ton Chebbies. Even the rear coil springs in the '60s were thicker. GM didn't officially start using HD after their 2500s until '99, but before that, most 2500s had a higher payload rating, which went hand in hand with the larger diffs and brakes. Fords were no different, altho I don't recall any of their F150s having F250 springs (like I said, don't recall...I don't recall liking Fords either). Dodge? who cares about them, we are talking Chebbies here!
LED headlights, bright ones, 3200 lumen on each side
Don, does Jungle have a site, I'm getting close.
^^^ What he saidDon, does Jungle have a site, I'm getting close.
JR, Jungle does not have a web site. You can get in touch with him over on ramchargercentral.com. He does have is own forum on the site which list all of his products that he makes.
LED headlights, bright ones, 3200 lumen on each side
Do those get warm enough (or at all) to clear away snow/ice? I know you guys don't get the same amount we do up here but, you've mentioned it before, that it does happen...
Dang, rebuilding the LP after 40k??
Also found that Eastwood has inside the frame paint if you want to address that; http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html
Not installed yet, but I'm guessing they generate very little heat while running. They do take a bit of voltage to get fired up, but very little wattage while running. a 60W incandescent bulb burns 60 watts. A fluorescent bulb producing the same lumens uses 13 watts, and a LED bulb producing the equivalent light output is somewhere around 6 watts. Since energy = heat (to some degree), my money says the LED bulbs wouldn't help remove snow and ice accumulation,
For that purpose, a high powered incandescent bulb like the silver streaks or whatever they are called would be more ap pro po
Nice job Don!!!!!!I remember seeing the winch bumper but I don't recall if I saw it on your RC or not
You guys can find all my parts here;
http://ramchargercentral.com/jungleshddodgecomponents/
Don
Did you see my new winch bumper on my gold RC ;D?
Jim
Sorry about the Air Dog Don. I haven't heard any complaints on this end from anyone, yet. I installed the FASS on my lml, and ran it for about 90k miles. Highway roads to lots of off road and mud. Never did anything but change the filters every 10k miles...Aid Dog on LML is still leaking...Too cold and wet to mess with it just yet
Wise choice on replacing the HID lights. Was having a lot of issues out of mine after 50k miles, so I pulled them all out and went back with factory bulbs...
I know the LED headlights on my new dodge do not get very hot, at all. Doubt they would melt any snow or ice away if I ever ran in to the white stuff...
I gambled back in 2007 or 2008 and bought offshore (yeah I know) HID's. They were cheap enough to try the gamble and throw away if they were junk so I said what the heck. Last fall I changed my first bulbs. Maybe I just got lucky, who knows, but having said that they continue to serve me well.I have a set of 3200 Lumen LED bulbs for the Silverado which should be going in this week. But they too have some sort of ballast/ignition unit and are not simply bulb units. With the HID's the bulbs weren't what failed, it is always the ballast units going bad. I hope these new LED units are not the same.
I am however interested in how the LED ones turn out. Deep in the bush lots of light is important to me.
I have a set of 3200 Lumen LED bulbs for the Silverado which should be going in this week. But they too have some sort of ballast/ignition unit and are not simply bulb units. With the HID's the bulbs weren't what failed, it is always the ballast units going bad. I hope these new LED units are not the same.
my new dodge
They are JDM bulbs, check them out...
I have a set of 3200 Lumen LED bulbs for the Silverado which should be going in this week. But they too have some sort of ballast/ignition unit and are not simply bulb units. With the HID's the bulbs weren't what failed, it is always the ballast units going bad. I hope these new LED units are not the same.
I may have missed it somewhere between C-Max's build thread or D2's, but where did you find the LED bulb/ballast set up that you plan to put in C-Max?
Looking down the road, this was just purchased to be towed behind SquareD as part of a survival system.
Roger that...Looking down the road, this was just purchased to be towed behind SquareD as part of a survival system.
I told you to grab one of those awhile ago! But I await the results that follow.
Roger that...
Just took awhile!
RMT?
Gotcha. Just ask Don about roof mounted tents, if you want to see someone get riled up!Well, I think Bruiser is talking about a purchased one not a home (not) made one!
They are JDM bulbs, check them out...
I have a set of 3200 Lumen LED bulbs for the Silverado which should be going in this week. But they too have some sort of ballast/ignition unit and are not simply bulb units. With the HID's the bulbs weren't what failed, it is always the ballast units going bad. I hope these new LED units are not the same.
I may have missed it somewhere between C-Max's build thread or D2's, but where did you find the LED bulb/ballast set up that you plan to put in C-Max?
Hey Don-Not scheduled yet...testing...
When's the new scheduled date for the upgrade on the ole knee?
The motor is comfortably resting within the frame rails of Square D once again!
Wow lots of progress! Great to see!Knee is OK, workable
How'd the knee hold up???
Great progress-Dunno Mikey
Serious armchair QB question:
Given the considerable torque of the motor and drive line, isn't that new Transfer case mount going to potentially cause problems when it restricts those twisting forces, placing all that force around your bearing collar where that steel clamp attaches to the aluminum collar? ???
And do I see that those are stock with grim and all the other 200k stuff on them?
And do I see that those are stock with grim and all the other 200k stuff on them?
Nossir!, no grime on those mounts or anything else under there. I took them down to nearly bare steel then finally top coated with undercoating...That's the texturing you see there.
Either my eye sight is going or it may even be a bad pic, that cross member looks as though it is already bent?
Either my eye sight is going or it may even be a bad pic, that cross member looks as though it is already bent?
Either my eye sight is going or it may even be a bad pic, that cross member looks as though it is already bent?
I think that is just the picture but no gusset???
Ok, but it does need some protection from KIAs??Well...Not really
Great work! Do you think you'll have to hack some more off the heater core shroud, or will the heat tape do it? Seems pretty close to the plastic!
Wow- really starting to look like its ready to roll over hybrids and mulch beds! ;D
Great progress and solution to the fitment problem! Does the movement aft change the anti-roll forces of the sway bar? I know the mounting location of the ends is the same, but did you loose or gain force moving the bulk of the bar 180* ?Don't know Mike
Looks nice Don. Got a pic over in the SUB build for you.
I think moving it to the back would change nothing on how it works if mounted to the same basic "points" on the frame and axle. Reminded me of the guys who say a cranked up torsion bar will ride worse than a stock setting.
FIRE IT UP!!!! ;D
Nice fabrication
Nice fabricationBTW, new welding table? is that 3/8" or 1/2" plywood? I'm looking to upgrade my personal welding table at home as well ;)
Nice fabricationBTW, new welding table? is that 3/8" or 1/2" plywood? I'm looking to upgrade my personal welding table at home as well ;)
That's funny!
Yup new 3/4" MDF welding table...!!!
And it is sitting on top of my two Harbor Freight (Real) welding tables!!!
Nice fabricationBTW, new welding table? is that 3/8" or 1/2" plywood? I'm looking to upgrade my personal welding table at home as well ;)
That's funny!
Yup new 3/4" MDF welding table...!!!
And it is sitting on top of my two Harbor Freight (Real) welding tables!!!
Hey Don-Trickle charger
Did you go hybrid on CMax? What's that yellow cord for? You can't be needing that block heater!? Don't pull mine out till near zero up here in snowland ! :D
Weld I will!What about modifying the o.e. grill or making one yourself? Not too many other suitable places to mount a condenser and still have it get the needed airflow, theres also the size of it (which, if your going to convert the a/c to 135a refrigerant is marginally sized to begin with...btdt...oh and if your doing a 134a retrofit you might want to look into a parallel flow condesner, they are more efficient and are avail in the aftermarket...rock auto has them, just look in the part description, also a couple good r12-134a conversion threads on dtr and cuminsforum).
OK good news and bad news
Good news is the core support is finished and painted as of this moment
Bad news is there is no way possible to mount the AC Condensor on the core support
The 1st gen truck was all compacted and had a short "Nose"
Within the confines of that snout was a radiator, which was not as big as this monster 2nd gen thing I have used. It had a smallish condenser wedged in between the radiator and a smallish intercooler that again, was about 1/3 as large as the thing I am using.
So it's just physics and real estate. No condenser in the core, which means I am going to have to get rather inventive and maybe stick it in one of the fender wells, or perhaps onto the bottom of the hood, or even on top of the topper...dunno yet
So, here is the final fitting of the IC which fits rather well I think
Hmmm, hadn't thought about conversion to R134, perhaps I should since it is more readily available than Freon is.What about modifying the o.e. grill or making one yourself? Not too many other suitable places to mount a condenser and still have it get the needed airflow, theres also the size of it (which, if your going to convert the a/c to 135a refrigerant is marginally sized to begin with...btdt...oh and if your doing a 134a retrofit you might want to look into a parallel flow condesner, they are more efficient and are avail in the aftermarket...rock auto has them, just look in the part description, also a couple good r12-134a conversion threads on dtr and cuminsforum).
Has anyone used Envirosafe R12/132 replacement? I just got some for retrofit and topping off my R12 systems. Plus you use less and is easy to get.
Just an idea Don,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
You can put that condenser anywhere you like,(the aftermarket parallel flow style) as long as you put an electric fan on it.I am thinking of mounting it on the roof of the truck in that rack I built, or even on the roof of the topper
last year I had the same issue on a 50 Chebee p/u...ended up putting the condenser/fan assembly under the passenger side floorboard, fan blowing down. Note: this will only work if you lay it flat, not standing on either end. A good side benefit from this is ending up with more freon capacity from the longer hoses...in this case 134a. (Freon is slang for refrigerant).
I also agree on converting it (to 134a)...just get it over with.
so your gonna run the water/alcohol mixture for the washer fluid?Same stuff!
For gosh sakes, start it up!!!!!!
Do remember to add a note to diesel to the tank.. With all the big important time consuming things, I don't wanna see you miss a small yet some what critical step in the Square D story, when it comes to start up time...Copy that
With all I have going on with this truck, I'm surprised I remembered to bolt the doors back on!
No, we didn't!
Is that your bird or just a file pic??That is a pic I took of Chalk-2 the bird flying beside me. I was in the same kind of ship, Super-Huey-2
It's early, and I haven't had my coffee yet, but did you just remove the fuel pump and NOT replace it with another one, a better one? Or is that a step you haven't posted yet?I did remove it, but there is not a better mechanical pump that fits there
Its a new "Green Initiative" Bobby- zero carbon foot print! ;)Why are we so against carbon anyway?
Its a new "Green Initiative" Bobby- zero carbon foot print! ;)
I did remove it, but there is not a better mechanical pump that fits there
So I plan to add two electrical lift pumps wired in parallel with one way check valves.
Lemme splain
Ya see electrical pumps do fail, run out of juice so's to speek
So it I bring the main supply line into a "Y" then each branch to a separate pump assembly then either one could supply the fuel to the engine. And by placing a one way check valve on each pump's outlet, then fuel could only move out, to the engine. So if one pump was running and the other off, which will be the normal configuration, then it would provide full pressure (about 10 psi) through a large supply line up to the motor.
And dat is what I'm gonna' do!
Im concerned that this SBC fuel pump delete mod is going to be a problem! Is that CHROME??
What if haj blows your fender well off in a fire fight and there you are chugging along in stealth mode at a thousand meters down range of some north korean long gunner and he catches a glint off of that shiny piece of hardware??
Seems we need to mitigate the risk associated with all of that hippy chrome you are using! ;) ;)
Im concerned that this SBC fuel pump delete mod is going to be a problem! Is that CHROME??
What if haj blows your fender well off in a fire fight and there you are chugging along in stealth mode at a thousand meters down range of some north korean long gunner and he catches a glint off of that shiny piece of hardware??
Seems we need to mitigate the risk associated with all of that hippy chrome you are using! ;) ;)
2 electrical pumps, got it. one feed line splitting into a "Y", got it.I'll run the primary through the hot ignition bus so it's on when the key is on
2 questions.
1. how are the electric pumps going to be powered, ignition switch, toggle switch, are they both going to be powered at the same time, or is one of them going to be a back up?
2. if both pumps are going to be running at the same time, is there a concern that one or both wont get enough fuel through the 1 feed line?
I agree, the only flashy part on SD should be muzzle flash,,,,,,,,,,,,
Did you have any problems with the prime when you first installed it?
it's getting so close it's electric. ::)It's just endless problem solving right now.
it's getting so close it's electric. ::)It's just endless problem solving right now.
I need a fitting for the transmission line, so I solve that puzzle.
I need to wire it up so I solve that puzzle
and on and on until one day I can declare that the majority of the problems are solved!
Sure you're already leaning this way Don, but just in case: I'd fire it up without the fenders etc. on- much easier to fix any potential wire issues where you can easily access those neat little wire bundles without having to hang by your ankles over the fenders. Remember the roof rack fiasco where you cracked the concrete and forgot your zip code for an undisclosed period of time...... ::)I am indeed leaning that way Mikey, however a lot of stuff mounts to the fender wells. Now the big problem with that is the fender wells mostly mount to the fenders.
I believe that Big D has found the rhythm again! MMMmmmust add Diesel Fuel and other fluids soon.................... :DYep, fluids are coming right up
Something else to consider. The Cummins will run easily to 8K miles on a oil change using standard good quality dino oil. In a SHTF situation I am fairly sure that you could stretch that considerably if required.
I always start our well plants on high zinc break in oil, then I run them a hour or so drop the oil and filter refill and then call it good.
Your updates and project in general are great motivators to my own project.
I've seen and known about that truck for years. Some pretty amazing fab work there. How about that bed???
It actually started out as a purely cosmetic total hack job.I've seen and known about that truck for years. Some pretty amazing fab work there. How about that bed???
I've seen pics of it randomly online, I want it.
And that finishes up build day #216
Yea, but just you wait...And that finishes up build day #216
Looking good Don! You are running out of parts. The floor is almost cleared.
Something else to consider. The Cummins will run easily to 8K miles on a oil change using standard good quality dino oil. In a SHTF situation I am fairly sure that you could stretch that considerably if required.
I always start our well plants on high zinc break in oil, then I run them a hour or so drop the oil and filter refill and then call it good.
Your updates and project in general are great motivators to my own project.
Heck post up what you are doing, we'd all appreciate it!
Start a build thread on that thingSomething else to consider. The Cummins will run easily to 8K miles on a oil change using standard good quality dino oil. In a SHTF situation I am fairly sure that you could stretch that considerably if required.
I always start our well plants on high zinc break in oil, then I run them a hour or so drop the oil and filter refill and then call it good.
Your updates and project in general are great motivators to my own project.
Heck post up what you are doing, we'd all appreciate it!
My wife and I are going to resurrect our old 85 W350 USAF crew cab. A bit of an expedition/SHTF type of build.
This i what it looked like back many years ago. We will be starting with a bare frame/cab and not much else as soon as it warms up enough to extract the frame from it' outside resting place.
(http://i.imgur.com/kFHtRO1.jpg)
Start a build thread on that thingSomething else to consider. The Cummins will run easily to 8K miles on a oil change using standard good quality dino oil. In a SHTF situation I am fairly sure that you could stretch that considerably if required.
I always start our well plants on high zinc break in oil, then I run them a hour or so drop the oil and filter refill and then call it good.
Your updates and project in general are great motivators to my own project.
Heck post up what you are doing, we'd all appreciate it!
My wife and I are going to resurrect our old 85 W350 USAF crew cab. A bit of an expedition/SHTF type of build.
This i what it looked like back many years ago. We will be starting with a bare frame/cab and not much else as soon as it warms up enough to extract the frame from it' outside resting place.
(http://i.imgur.com/kFHtRO1.jpg)
We'd have two old Dodge crews going at the same time!
That is a purdy old truck there. Another build would be great!!!I decided to use dino for starters
I would run good ol dino oil for the break in at least. Been doing some reading on how good the diesel oil is for about everything (but not vise versa) A lot to do with zinc an flat tappet cams.
As for the tranny on SD, just add the oil and crack an upper line and let it bleed awhile.
LoL, it would look like the dogs got it?From the way they smell right now, I'd have to call that match a draw!
don't count out the dogs just yet don, looks like they got what theys was after.Good point Nate
A guy with build threads about firearms used everything BUT a gun to end the threat.....Brake Cleaner with a match and I'd have given you a pass for at least being creative! >:(Mike,
Recipe for Skunk Stink to remove it:
Bottle Hydrogen Peroxide
Couple tablespoons of "DAWN" dish liquid
1/2 Cup or so Baking Soda
Mix this in a glass dish outside near hose and ONE of said, Skunky, tied up Dogs.
Take mixture and heap and scrub on dogs from top down of affected area- KEEP OUT OF DOGS EYES
Rinse off with hose, warm water if you want it to work a bit better, cold if you really hate your dogs and like cold hands. If enough "mix" left, repeat right away.
You'll need another batch for Dog #2 and you should be good to go. If you find the fragrant "goo" on the house, you could try it, but not certain what Peroxide will do to siding/brick.
You might have discovered that when you're right at the point of attack, the smell is SO strong that it almost stops smelling......almost! ;D
Hopefully your dogs are up on their Rabies Vaccinations, as skunks are one of the most prevalent carriers of Rabies!
Don't stop there!!! Fluids are good to run the beast.........................Patience my friend, patience!
On my way to get my P motor,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
This has to be one of the best documented builds I've ever read on the net!!Thanks
AWESOME work Don!
And with that, I could hear the chow bell, time to call this one done for the day, #216 in the ever evolving SquareD build project
Don I searched an failed possibly, but what is the deal with the hubs? Maybe I can help.Norm,
...apparently Dodge had some minor differences in a couple of years, and JR and I might have just fallen into that spider-hole.
Anyway, you can see where Tate is trying to get this ciphered out in a post or two north of this one...
Oh your meaning the wheel hubs with no outer snap ring groove? That's a common known issue with early internal hub axles. You can have it machined in if you feel it's required.I think mine have the outer snap ring. But for some reason the manual hub mechanicals won't seat in the bore far enough to use that ring...I mean the stuff is sticking out of the hub!
Usually those hubs were used on 89-90 trucks. Most often on Dana 61's in my experience. But as with anything Dana, some exceptions do apply LoL
I have about 10 Dana 60 fronts laying around, I should probably check and see if I have any sans outer snap rings.
hmmmmmmm.... Can you snap a picture of the assembly? How it fits, or doesn't in this case, and then a picture of the spindle/caliper bracket sans hub?Man, I'm not taking all that apart again if I don't have to!
you're on the right track. in fact, 12.0" gm dodge stubs, 11.4" for stubs. but Don's hubs were in functional/in use prior to disassembly, stubs changed, but only in spline count. original axle measured up the same so I'm doubting the ford hub scenario. I'm leaning more towards the fact that these come with two possible spacer scenarios, one for dodge/gm and one for ford. originally he had these installed in the HP d60 destined for Cmax, a ford application. if he "lost" the other spacer that could create this scenario, but the main gear could also be mismachined. I'm hoping for a simple solution that involves me shipping a few extra parts and Don happily installing them. Stay tuned...It's weird, but I removed that small spacer altogether and the assembly still sticks out.
you're on the right track. in fact, 12.0" gm dodge stubs, 11.4" for stubs. but Don's hubs were in functional/in use prior to disassembly, stubs changed, but only in spline count. original axle measured up the same so I'm doubting the ford hub scenario. I'm leaning more towards the fact that these come with two possible spacer scenarios, one for dodge/gm and one for ford. originally he had these installed in the HP d60 destined for Cmax, a ford application. if he "lost" the other spacer that could create this scenario, but the main gear could also be mismachined. I'm hoping for a simple solution that involves me shipping a few extra parts and Don happily installing them. Stay tuned...It's weird, but I removed that small spacer altogether and the assembly still sticks out.
I'll get some pics of it in the shop today and dump them on the thread tonight
excellent work, and the lines are looking really clean.We have a winner!
I got post 1000
A lot of great progress. Keep it up when you thaw out a bit! ;DWilco!
A lot of great progress. Keep it up when you thaw out a bit! ;DWilco!
It was 71 here today ...........in my HOUSE! 78 degrees colder outside! :(
I think so; eventually, we were all Ash-shamed of ourselves and stopped....... ;)Appearances would seem to controvert that statement
I see there's no shortage of DOT activity on my build thread. Some things just go on and on and on.
What, didn't like my poetry?I see there's no shortage of DOT activity on my build thread. Some things just go on and on and on.
Well, golly gee Don. If you would post something on the build we could DOT it properly ::)
I see there's no shortage of DOT activity on my build thread. Some things just go on and on and on.
Junkin', screwin' up the place
Don's thread turns to, such a disgrace!
Weather here, chit chat there
Oh what the heck, I just don't care!
The man he writes and builds this truck
And do we help? Oh no-such luck
Although it's others he tries to teach
And by the scriptures sometimes, preach
We gotta talk, we gotta chat
About mindless things, just this and that
Along we march, no goal in sight
Worried not so much, about our plight
For we have no purpose, we have no plan
Just throw Don's work in the trash can!
Great build, doing something very similar to my 1990 Ramcharger. Since it was pouring rain Sunday I spent the day reading thru your build. I don't know if you are still looking for them but Quad4x4 sells the rotor dust shields for the Dodge D60, they are very pricey so don't be too shocked!! Keep up the great work.
Great build, doing something very similar to my 1990 Ramcharger. Since it was pouring rain Sunday I spent the day reading thru your build. I don't know if you are still looking for them but Quad4x4 sells the rotor dust shields for the Dodge D60, they are very pricey so don't be too shocked!! Keep up the great work.
Sounds like a plan... May have a different brown truck driver on the next delivery...Yep, especially if he is a city boy...Those boys don't do skunks or any critters really!
With the extra switches you've added, plan on adding are you adding something like you did on the TacGator? An alternate fuse block/whatever you wanna call it. Something to keep your stock normal fuse box from looking like a tangled mass of wiring. I can't think at the moment, coffee hasn't kicked in.Get your quoffee man...what are you thinkin'!!!
Lookin good there chief.Weirdest thing...they just stopped leaking!
I don't know if I missed or have just forgot, did you ever get the air leaks in the tires fixed?
Now that it's gittin close to rolling time it will be important.
Great progress. Think I will use that raptorliner on my 1101 that followed me home.You bought one...Cool!
Lookin good there chief.Weirdest thing...they just stopped leaking!
I don't know if I missed or have just forgot, did you ever get the air leaks in the tires fixed?
Now that it's gittin close to rolling time it will be important.
Great progress. Think I will use that raptorliner on my 1101 that followed me home.You bought one...Cool!
I can't explain it. I can only observe the fact that that tire is not leaking or at least it doesn't seem to. And the weather turned colder then it stopped, and it was inflated for months and so forth, but beyond that, I don't know why it's working fine now??!!Lookin good there chief.Weirdest thing...they just stopped leaking!
I don't know if I missed or have just forgot, did you ever get the air leaks in the tires fixed?
Now that it's gittin close to rolling time it will be important.
Well. That beats the heck out of that wrestling match.
Maybe they finally liked the weight on them. Pokedon!
Possibly corrosion sealed a tiny leak between rim parts?There is no corrosion going on there. painted/sealed, RTV coated, then grease, then prayed over by Duane's Buddest monks...nope, no kurosion there!
The truck is complete and finished...Thanks for watching
Not yetThe truck is complete and finished...Thanks for watching
But does it START and MOVE??
I carried up and test fit one of the fenders as well. since getting that side sorted is also coming right up
Looking at your steering cooler placement, a fender scoop could direct air across it, or a flexible hose similar to brake cooling ducts might solve your need for a hole?
Looking closer to completion with every post!
Those will both look and function great! Should draw air nicely while moving with air flow hitting 90*I think so Mike.
Lots of work don there BD. With the addition of the new bumper, the current snorkel and the roof rack. Seeing the thing coming at you or in your rear view will just be intimidating as H*&L.
Hmm, like the idea of the new intake elbow. Someone may have suggested it before,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just looked at my hood and I have a dent where louvers would cover it right up.
You going with ol' sparky to mount up Frankensnorkle or nuts and bolts? Nuts and bolts would really play nicely into the Frankensnorkle theme! ::)Yup, nutz and boltz
Well that will keep the not so properly fitting fender straighter than the welded one did!Yes, same stuff on all the panels, fuel tank stuff, snorkel, other things yet to come...
And they'll look good. Using the same hardware for the Louvre vents?
Com-on, fire it up!!Patience my young padiwon, patience...
OK picture time.Wow did that ever get beat up. Looks like the red dog was using it as a chew toy!
Picture time because judging by the nature of the questions I get, no one has read anything! Ok, kinda just kiddin', sorta...
Welp, the problems yielded to some solutions again today as more things got solved. Starting with the front driveshaft, today was more of project GTSOTF (Get the stuff off the floor)
That drive shaft has been kicked and shoved all over the garage and beat up, kind of like a Comet's trip around the solar system, that driveshaft has been everywhere. It survived because it was too heavy for the red dog to carry off so for now I'll use it, but probably go to something a bit stouter in the near future.
I cleaned on it for about a week, and here is what it looked like:
It got pee'd on about 50 times and I had guerdoned off the area where it was as an active bio hazard, but like some democrats, it persisted and survived!OK picture time.Wow did that ever get beat up. Looks like the red dog was using it as a chew toy!
Picture time because judging by the nature of the questions I get, no one has read anything! Ok, kinda just kiddin', sorta...
Welp, the problems yielded to some solutions again today as more things got solved. Starting with the front driveshaft, today was more of project GTSOTF (Get the stuff off the floor)
That drive shaft has been kicked and shoved all over the garage and beat up, kind of like a Comet's trip around the solar system, that driveshaft has been everywhere. It survived because it was too heavy for the red dog to carry off so for now I'll use it, but probably go to something a bit stouter in the near future.
I cleaned on it for about a week, and here is what it looked like:
The angle looks goo from here. How much spline engagement do you have.I think I have plenty. From the resting position, I pulled it out about 1/5"
The water/alcohol tank has this 1/4NPT outlet which I plugged up with the correct fittingIt seems you have some frame rust at the alchy tank that mustn't have been caught/coated on the frame prep.
I'd say keep going. On alchy/whatever you want pump, what's the capacity and how long will it last? I remember you saying how much it should hold when the guy fabbed it up for you, just can't remember right now.We never measured the capacity, but I'd place is somewhere between 5-7 gallons.
Keep going on part five. The bumper build should be it's own chapterWell there is going to be a front bumper build, a rear bumper build, a rock rail/side protection build, a skid plate build and some exo-skeleton as well. That will make that part of the transformation quite extensive. I had planned for all that and the electronics upgrades to be part 6
The truck build is going great.
Dang thats alot of boost for it to kick in at. Not for cruzing but running huh. You going run a mix or just water?I'm listening to recommendations...most of you guyz are smarter than me...what boost numba would you recommend?
I run a 20% alcohol, but have something wrong in mine and haven't figured it out yet. Think its in the lines.
Are you going to run a KIA proof cover over the pump?
I agree. Stay in part 5 until momentum shifts direction.OK enough of the masses have spoken
The bumper builds would be a good turning point.
So to help the ignorant, all of this will need to go into a faraday box of some sort or no?Nope Tater, no faraday
What are you drilling those holes with? Looks all pushed in. Is that how Don drills holes?Dr Yeng fenderworks product...Steel is .00000000023" thick
Ah, that looks all better with the inserts in.
For your mystery connector back at the transfer case, it goes on a switch mounted at the outboard (2wd-4wd) shift rail where the poppet ball bearing and spring are. I'd have to look back through to when you did your rebuild to see, but maybe you just have two retainer bolts installed now? Hope that's helpful.Hmmm, I don't remember that switch, but it obviously must have been there
keep up the good work!
Next onto fixing Dr Yeng's fender fo-pa. I had to beat on it just like it was some Chinaman's head which you were trying to explain the concept of quality to...I.E. you need to hit it both hard and many times!You and Nate ought to get together and do a body class!
I know nothing about body work at allafter the work on daisy's hood you might be an expert.
Just eyeballing it on the wrong fender, I could mount the louvers to act as scoops to draw in air, or mount them traditionally to allow air to escape.
I'm thinking keeping the opening facing aft will keep the fenders from scooping up mud and channeling it into the engine!
Darn those switches are purdy, to bad they are so pricey!!When I pulled the carpet way back when I discovered factory wiring which was run under on the floor.
Not much room in the glove box for gloves with that.
I do slightly question the wiring through the passenger floor. Isn't that a fairly high wear area?
I don't think I'd worry abut the wiring and the floor. I'd be more worried in my world about the relays starting the 45 left over napkins from Taco Bell my wife always seems to stash in the glove box on fire.Funny Norm!
But being a 1st gen Dodge owner, smoke erupting from a dash area isn't cause for panic. It's rather normal LoL
I should acquire one of those "tactical" devices. I have a nice LED Ray O Vac ($4.38) flashlight in my truck, but whenever I go to use it it's missing. Maybe loving family members wouldn't swipe the oinker light.That's why I use it
Looking good Don....Your motivating me to make sure our crew cab has like maybe 30 wires tops LoL
At least your working on your truck. I was informed yesterday I have until early June to get our on the road. Yet another deadline missed most likely......
WOW you have been busy, looking good Don!!!Danka!
Ok, I'll make you a deal. You finish up D2, and send her up here, and I'll drive it around and show her off. Then you can take XJ and show the interwebz what you can do with her.. Or, yea just forget it..Disapproved
Sure like those louvers on there, nice work.Exactly!
Funny about electrical. It is so simple, but tedious!! Then it doesn't work,,,,,,,,,,,
While reading the updates and sipping on my morning coffee, I had an epiphany.The snorkel is going to get finished a little better, then sprayed with that Raptor urethane bed liner because I see it pushing branches out of the way a lot and suffering the increased scratch type wear.
I, in my own opinion, think that panel you made would look nice, in the OD like the outside, with the names/settings done in white. But that's my .02
Regardless, looking good
I can only hope I can get half as much done in a day as you do. Looking good and getting close to a test drive.Norm,
You can't keep using the same picture of cmax. We need proof-of-life and no games or we'll........Last pic it had 4 months of dust on it. I just had it washed over at the truck wash.
....well, we'll.....oh, just use your imagination!
LoL folks can always tell when I wash my daily driver 1st gen. It always has less paint after a good scrubbing...I just work a lot in the garage because of the alternative.
I think day to day you get far more done than I do Don. You wired half a truck and did body work. I beat on some rivets and sprayed a little paint. I think I spend too much time looking at my wife's backside...I might ban her from the shop.
LoL folks can always tell when I wash my daily driver 1st gen. It always has less paint after a good scrubbing...
I am going to cleverly disguise our Crew Cab as a mall crawler LoLBut you're the guy who only has 30 wires in the whole truck?
Don without a trans temp guage how will you know how well your cooler is working? Just saying.... 8)
I got chills reading the "30 wires" I was hoping for less than a dozen.You are going to be a sadly mistaken over wishin' wnder assumin' man when it comes to these two words Wiring-Easy!
unfortunately don, not all of us can acquire a vehicle that has not been molested in some way, shape, fashion or form. I am very very tempted to get a new harness and have the entire truck re-done.Not sure what just happened there
New vs. old sealed beam which I plan to donate to the Smithsonian museum!
Man it's been so long, and I have ordered so many things, I don't remember.New vs. old sealed beam which I plan to donate to the Smithsonian museum!
Where did you get the headlights from?
I think I'll just retrofit the HID housings with LED'sGood choice me thinks. Mo dependable.
JR-
Where did you find an update of Nate's favorite thing to post!!!??
You might not be able to tell, but a lot of wiring has been attached and routed that was hanging loose in the breeze a day or two ago
One persistent problem, though, is with the ARC switch panel. I just cannot get it to work. I have tried everything three times already!
I now believe the relay panel or cable or switch module is defective. It should have worked at some point while I sorted through it. I even double grounded the thing with no luck!
So why not spray bed liner on the floor of the cab? Everlasting and it also works as a sound deadner and an insulator?Ya know, I never thought about that Nater...
Don I run H4 Bulbs in my trucks. They are hellish bright and very simple/reliable. A bit old school, but then I tend to roll that way LoLFunny you said that
I have tested each circuit with a voltage tester while wiring the thingOne persistent problem, though, is with the ARC switch panel. I just cannot get it to work. I have tried everything three times already!
I now believe the relay panel or cable or switch module is defective. It should have worked at some point while I sorted through it. I even double grounded the thing with no luck!
Try to run a simple circuit through the switch panel and then the relay panel independently. Isolate a single switch or relay of possible. Its easy to get something crossed up when you are working with a bundle of wires. I doubt its either the switches or relays. I like to wire one circuit at a time and test each one before moving on to the next. Tedious, I know...
Ooooh, new compressor. Do Tell!Not here...Tell him about it over on your thread! ;-))
Don, with the new reflector headlamp housing you could just run 100watt bulbs too. Same thing I am doing on the burb. Lots of choices and plenty of light and you can find a replacement anywhere.Yea, maybe use a jumper cable to supply full battery voltage and run halogens
How long do you think your carpet is going to last in this thing?
Have you tried using a heat gun to flatten out the wrinkles in the vinyl mat?No, haven't
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h71070201/overview/Thanks JR, You're a good man!
Don....these folks are well thought of. I personally have no experience with them FWIWOrdered
http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=19452&MakeId=33&ModelId=160 (http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=19452&MakeId=33&ModelId=160)
I am unclear yet what I will do with the crew cab. Carpet is most likely not an option in this land of dust/mud.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h71070201/overview/Ordered!
Very nice Don.
Is there any concern with the main power cable down there in harms way?
Sure you are going to put a KIA Killer bumper there but that could get pinched off with just a little bend the wrong way?
What site did you get those louvers from?
Got a lot done and it works!!No amiable light in the works except for a flashlight
Are there any plans for a aimable spotlight?? Be a lot easier to aim a light than the whole truck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Got a lot done and it works!!They will however immediately identify the sound of the 12 gage pump action...tactical advantage...
Are there any plans for a aimable spotlight?? Be a lot easier to aim a light than the whole truck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Man, I go away for a little while and come back to a novel!!Ash,
And better yet, a lot of progress. Kudos on the wiring... Don't miss that at all... ;)
Next up is the stock right fender repair
I pulled the old rear anti lock brake computer out. It will not be reused
Phil,Next up is the stock right fender repair
I pulled the old rear anti lock brake computer out. It will not be reused
That is not RWAL computer! Wish you were closer I could of given you a nice set of fenders for your project, nice thing about out west is the sheetmetal is not worth anything.
Phil,Next up is the stock right fender repair
I pulled the old rear anti lock brake computer out. It will not be reused
That is not RWAL computer! Wish you were closer I could of given you a nice set of fenders for your project, nice thing about out west is the sheetmetal is not worth anything.
What is it then?
The wiring harness for the RWAL went right to it...
Take another look at it. I am holding the computer and the large mounting bracket.
Do you need that thing?
I see flashes of things to come for me here, nice work.Oh yea, start it...forgot about that
I know your going to surprise us and start this thing one day, around build day 301.
This pic hangs on my wall. That's me inside, driving my pristine 1970 Boss 302 Mustang I used to own. It was the actual NHRA G-Stock world record holder for a time, set somewhere in Oklahoma, I believe by the original owner, an Army Captain. I bought it from him and restored it to the condition you see it in here. Those things were darned fast for what they were. That car actually posted a 12.06!
Have some things to get done first...
JR, those are too nice for barracks on an army base. the pretty boy chair farce would have something like that.
Hey Ash, remember when we used to have fun messing up Don's build threads with a bunch of Dot stuff.......(actually it was you and Shawn)....but anywho, I don't think he's awake right now if you wanna go for it!And then I think there was also the weather reports...
Hey Ash, remember when we used to have fun messing up Don's build threads with a bunch of Dot stuff.......(actually it was you and Shawn)....but anywho, I don't think he's awake right now if you wanna go for it!And then I think there was also the weather reports...
I'll play weatherman. It's still winter here.
Current conditions,SNOW, 7F , wind chill -13F.
Wind NE @20 mph gusting to 30 mph.
Down right blizzard like on the lake tonight.
And yes still on the snowmobile to the cabin.
So now that we've junked up your build for long enough, carry on with your build. 8)
Current temp: 78*f
High today: 86*f
Snow in inches: 0.00
Hail in inches: 0.00
Tornados touched down: 0
Parka weather in near future?: Negative
....I could keep going if you don't have any truck stuff to post up. :)
Looks great Don.... what kind of epoxy primer are you using? I am dreading the body work stage of our build.Errr, the brand?? It comes in a yellow quart can and a gallon jug. Sitting at the computer right now, that mess is out in the shop. Two part epoxy that could serve as a great frame coating. Dries super hard.
Current temp: 78*f
High today: 86*f
Snow in inches: 0.00
Hail in inches: 0.00
Tornados touched down: 0
Parka weather in near future?: Negative
....I could keep going if you don't have any truck stuff to post up. :)
So I guess my answer is over there too.No I deleted it along with mine
So I guess my answer is over there too.No I deleted it along with mine
I am using those lights in the garage now, they are great. Much better than the 2x2 florescents!!Credit given where credit is due
Looks like you got plenty done.... I spent the day on my Exmark shortening the grass on 7 acres and change. Good news is, the spring cleanup of the lawn is done, so I can take the bagger off now.
It's going to hit. Even with the axle in the stock location and 4" of lift, a 35" tire will hit that front corner. Usually I rim mine under the marker lights... then wrap the front bumper around the corner to make it look cleaner. Wish I had a pic.....
There's definitely been a lot of work going on, just that most of it involves dirt at the moment.
But we have movement on SquareD!
I got the relay and switch panel in from John, owner of ARC electronics. He is a great guy to work with. Very laid back and interested in solving your problems. I had shorted out his switch panel by mistake so he sent me a new one. I then proceeded to short that one out in the first 30 minutes I had it! So I soldered jumper wires in and made all that better. It produced this fully operational battle station, err, I mean switch panel.
Don.... could you do me a favor when you get a chance.... and measure from the top of your front axles spring plate (centered) to the frame? I'd sure appreciate it.
Oh my goodness, it's a 1/16" off!! the world will end !! can you imagine how much lower the left side will be when Don gets in the truck? oh boy :)...And remember we thought those springs might be sagging?
Thanks Don that helps me considerably. Our Ramcharger measures 7.5" at the same place. That's with 12 year old Alcan 4" custom springs. They measured 8.1" with the big block gasser when new 200K miles ago.I am using the 2" drop hangar because that is all he has I believe. As for the shackles, He sent me like 4 different sets of which two were designed with the improper lengths according to Jim. So, I can't actually say with certainty if the shackles are longer, I think they may be near stock length.
You have Jim's 2" drop hanger and longer shackles correct?
Thanks Don you have gave me something to ponder while staring at the bare frame and wondering what to do next LoL We have a week of rain forecast....no farming will be done...so I should build something.But remember you said this thing would be done by June!
A whole lotta talk happening... Not alotta work....
Wash off that mower after every use, then when you get ready to mow again, it's already cleaned up and agile. No down time getting ready to mow...just curious as to what this moving button did.....