Author Topic: 2006-7 LBZ Rebuild-Motor, Trans, and[emoji47] (Read 46635 times)

Sammconn · « **on:** July 28, 2020, 01:51:19 PM »

So as I have mentioned in the WDYDT thread I pulled the trigger on a parts/core donor.

Donor truck

Mine

I’m now in the information gathering stage for WDINTB. What do I need to buy?
Both trucks are at 300k miles, donor has never seen a tune.

Any insight will be appreciated.
I’m going to gather intel and DOT’s here and do the build in another thread hopefully less junked up.

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 28, 2020, 02:08:11 PM »

what do you want it to do? start there and pull out your checkbook

Sammconn · « **Reply #2 on:** July 28, 2020, 02:42:24 PM »

No more than it does now.

The answers I seek are do I need to look a at bearings, crank grind etc.
Just gonna be another dd for me nothing special.

Need to seal up oil leaks refresh what “actually should be” and not a lot more.

My problem is I’m frugal (aka cheap), don’t trust anyone to work on my stuff, and live 700 odd miles from parts.

Oh, once this dem-panic is over and I can go south again I think I’ll stroke the check to Mike L.
I don’t think I want to do the trans, but I may be swayed still too.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 28, 2020, 03:41:19 PM »

I support the MikeL trans but mine has been acting funny as of late, Flare shifts is how I view it, Rpm increase then a shove into gear. It didn’t do that new. Another problem for another thread

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swbhobie16 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 28, 2020, 04:19:44 PM »

are you pulling the motor out and going through it or are these things going to be done in the truck.

if you pull it. i would do head gaskets and a head/valve job. at 300k with no tune or EGR delete i can just about guarantee the intake runners and y bride are going to look like the inside of an 18 century chimney.

LB7 pass side up pipe.
egr delete.
driver side LML manifold.
PCV reroute.

just a few things here and there.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 28, 2020, 04:54:03 PM »

There is the whole other idea of a plan like Dons, Are you planing on a tune?

Tune provides good benefits like MpG, increase HP is not just a ego thing vs ability to pull easier at a higher rate of speed

The turbos you can drop in provide lots of better long term benefits also, keeping the motor temps down and reliability and so forth

The rest I think I would leave stock

A 500hp motor will run a lifetime with basic parts

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Sammconn · « **Reply #6 on:** July 28, 2020, 08:21:13 PM »

Everything coming out of the donor for rebuilds.
I’m running as big a tune as a stock trans can hold. I may have limped it last week in the heat.

Heads getting done.
Turbo rebuilt.
Gasket set.
Water pump.
Starter and ring gear?
Staying stock everything.

No “oil changes” on my watch.

Just looking for anything I may not be thinking of
Will be headstuds because but otherwise I think all stock parts.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 28, 2020, 10:10:40 PM »

Keep track of costs. Interested to see where you land

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longball · « **Reply #8 on:** July 29, 2020, 09:20:33 PM »

Aftermarket down pipe while you’ve got the motor out would help it breath a little better. I may have missed it but what’s the reason for the swap? Something wrong with your truck?

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Sammconn · « **Reply #9 on:** July 29, 2020, 11:09:21 PM »

My truck is all good. Just old. I can’t be without it is the reason for the swap.
I’m at the end of 200 miles of gravel.
Parents aren’t getting any younger etc.

Short story is I’m going to do a rebuild/reseal whatever it ends up being then do the weekend swap.
I’m too far from everything to trust things will go well.

So when I got the opportunity for a completed set of spare parts I went for it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #10 on:** July 30, 2020, 07:11:25 AM »

If it’s out and your tearing it down That far and it were me I would mic the journals and bearings and check the cylinders. Then you can decide on just running it as is or perhaps changing the bearings or something more if there’s a problem. . But at least you’ll know if there is a major issue. Most everything else can be solved from the top of there’s in issue later.

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KensAuto · « **Reply #11 on:** July 30, 2020, 08:58:14 AM »

Ring gear is either good or isn't, but at 300k it would be crazy not to look at the bearings, especially if you're resealing the pan.
Obvious things like accessory pulleys, glow plugs, oil pressure switch..
Can't think of anything else as far as the actual engine goes unless you wanna look at the cam.

Sammconn · « **Reply #12 on:** July 30, 2020, 10:55:25 AM »

I have a ‘spot’ or maybe it’s my starter... every once in a blue moon.

So here’s what I was thinking:
Complete tear down, now Ken has me thinking cam should be ok.
Want to measure everything.
Head job, as I don’t think the donor has egr blocked. Studs for install.
Turbo rebuild.
Oil pump, or do they go bad these days?
Water pump.
Starter.
Manifolds(maybe) up pipes for sure.
EGR delete.
New exhaust. Again.

Then address anything else if there is.

Should I have a set of motor mounts?
How hard to check if they are broke?
I have two buddies in town that have at least one broke.

Nate · « **Reply #13 on:** July 30, 2020, 11:21:31 AM »

If your going to replace the water pump, look at getting one that has been pinned. Unless the newer ones fixed that issue

EL TATE · « **Reply #14 on:** July 30, 2020, 11:26:56 AM »

Quote from: KensAuto on July 30, 2020, 08:58:14 AM

Ring gear is either good or isn't, but at 300k it would be crazy not to look at the bearings, especially if you're resealing the pan.
Obvious things like accessory pulleys, glow plugs, oil pressure switch..
Can't think of anything else as far as the actual engine goes unless you wanna look at the cam.

CPK sensor still an issue in the LBZ like it was in the LB7 with shearing? Should he be looking at the CP4 with that many miles, or at least get it flow tested?

T-case pump rub kit or new rear case half
inspect the G80, make sure your spiders and the flywheel for the governor cam aren't cracked or worse
brg/backlash check on the gears while you're at it

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #15 on:** July 30, 2020, 12:04:08 PM »

I have a G80 chunk complete if it’s worth the cost of shipping. Only because Tate shamed me into a grizzly locker....

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EL TATE · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2020, 12:18:23 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2020, 12:04:08 PM

I have a G80 chunk complete if it’s worth the cost of shipping. Only because Tate shamed me into a grizzly locker....

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Not possible when you have no shame sir.

Sammconn · « **Reply #17 on:** July 30, 2020, 01:13:25 PM »

CPK sensor? I don’t know this one...
Good idea on the CP3.
T-case, donor is new...so I’ll likely pop it open and swap it.
Diffs I’m quite frankly scared of, no experience. So I’ll be in touch with pics when I venture there.
On that note, how long do the bearings hold out in a diff?

Charles, likely not worth the cost of shipping, but I’ll keep that in mind.
And there is no shame in a grizzly...

KensAuto · « **Reply #18 on:** July 30, 2020, 01:31:07 PM »

Crank position sensor Sam. The trigger wheel is on the crankshaft. I don't have any first hand knowledge on those issues. Haven't seen a dmax oil pump go bad either but I bet it's happened.
Definitely mounts at 300k.

stlaser · « **Reply #19 on:** July 30, 2020, 03:36:13 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on July 30, 2020, 12:04:08 PM

I have a G80 chunk complete if it’s worth the cost of shipping. Only because Tate shamed me into a grizzly locker....

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Did you opt in on buying rubber stock when you made that purchase?

swbhobie16 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 30, 2020, 07:25:02 PM »

note.

if you want to pull the upper pan, there are 2 bolts that are ‘horizontal’ behind the flywheel. and the crank to flywheel bolts are single use bolts. so if you want to pull the pan to inspect bearings.. make sure it’s done in order. don’t want to buy $60 worth of bolts twice. hahah.

Sammconn · « **Reply #21 on:** July 31, 2020, 09:56:55 AM »

Good tidbit there.

So are all of the fasteners inside single use now too?
Something tells me they are.

Sammconn · « **Reply #22 on:** April 22, 2021, 10:32:32 AM »

Welp, been a while I hold here.

I’m starting to order parts for the motor.

Our “workers” are out on strike rotating different groups and being a giant pita.
I was supposed to stay at the cabin for breakup and do gazebo 2.0.
Now I’m looking at motor as I can’t be gone being management.
Hopefully it ends soon but who knows.
Government interference biggest problem as a crown Corp.

Anyhow.

Getting carts together and trying to sort out the finer points.
Need to figure out who to trust with my heads.

Added to the previous lists are up pipes and manifolds.
Water pump alternator all the wear out type stuff.
CP3 on mine holds 26k+ all day long so I know it’s good(ish) do not know state of donor, and being untuned won’t have the needs the tune does. May have to think about this one some.

Not sure what all else.

Then a thorough oil change on the suspension, noticed I’m leaning to the port side a couple degrees when I had it in at work I change the oil. Will be new leaf packs and hardware t-bars and all that fun stuff. Not looking forward to eating all this dirt but that’s the cost of business of a 300+k truck.

A payment is not even being considered.
Looked at the box of my donor truck a little more yesterday, I think it may be worse than the current. Oh well. I’ll sort that later.

Sammconn · « **Reply #23 on:** April 23, 2021, 08:42:11 PM »

So I think everything’s on the way save for head gaskets.
All ARP fasteners, some of the less critical not going to be ARP.
PPE manis and up pipes made the list.
Started on the “truck” parts too.

And for Dave, I’m about 4K Canadian in, so 3-ish USD.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 23, 2021, 10:14:50 PM »

That’s so awesome. Gettin it done ! Saving money and learning new shstuff

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Sammconn · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2023, 12:18:47 PM »

Hey there.
Another year another project.

Since I refuse to get a new piece of crap sensor laden vehicle, I need to clean up my rust bucket.
Well one or two of those are true.

Cab corners, rockers, wheel wells and wheel houses ordered.
13 x 26 tent shed ordered.
Bodywork stuff inbound and to be picked up shortly.

The I hope I’m not screwing up thoughts going through my mind…

Going to be a project of a different nature this year. Lol.
Just hope it’s warm enough for paint when I’m at that point.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 27, 2023, 01:51:09 PM »

Well, this is interesting.

So, this is going to keep you on the people side of the river for quite a long time...You good with that? The cabin will be crying out, but the truck will be lovin' it!

Sammconn · « **Reply #27 on:** March 27, 2023, 04:19:37 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on March 27, 2023, 01:51:09 PM

Well, this is interesting.

So, this is going to keep you on the people side of the river for quite a long time...You good with that? The cabin will be crying out, but the truck will be lovin' it!

My goal is to hit it hard over breakup.
Based on a couple videos I’ve seen and a couple guys hat have done them, the rockers and cab corners “should” only take a couple days. So I’ll call it a week.
Then the box, that’s the great unknown, but that also should only take a few days.
So there’s two weeks I’ll hate myself for.
Heck. Most likely will pull the box off for frame restoring as well as potentially making life easier for paint. Not real sure how it will all play out but I hope I’m three weeks I can knock it out.

That plan “should” get breakup done.
Oh, HH6’s car will not be around either so there’s that added motivation.

Worst case if I get it to primer I’m better off than I am now.

JR · « **Reply #28 on:** March 28, 2023, 09:01:40 PM »

I can see saving the cab with all the wiring and such, but just get a rust free bed? Sure you may have to drive and get it or have shipped (costly up there). Driving you just drive to bed, switch and drive home. Just an idea?

Dang I love my LBZ and she needs a little TLC too.

Sammconn · « **Reply #29 on:** March 28, 2023, 10:08:51 PM »

Quote from: JR on March 28, 2023, 09:01:40 PM

I can see saving the cab with all the wiring and such, but just get a rust free bed? Sure you may have to drive and get it or have shipped (costly up there). Driving you just drive to bed, switch and drive home. Just an idea?

Dang I love my LBZ and she needs a little TLC too.

I’m over 5k to get one to the border.
I’m still looking but for about 500 bucks and some time I’ll buy a few years I hope.
Then maybe a road trip to Texas or Arizona to find one.
The shipping is the killer.

But you’re right, a rust free bed is in the future, just not this year.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 29, 2023, 10:27:05 AM »

Yea, JR is onto something. Drive to the southwest, buy the bed, toss it on, discard the old one, then drive home...no tarriff
and you get a little trip out of it

Even better idea:

Have JR find you one, purchase it and leave it on his new property. Then you go down for a visit...

It would fit on Don's farm too if needed, but KY uses salt to snow at a 1/1 ratio...

JR · « **Reply #31 on:** March 29, 2023, 11:16:47 AM »

I think you are above me someplace right? Then then are others north of me.

Patch it then look at options?

Sammconn · « **Reply #32 on:** March 30, 2023, 12:42:18 PM »

Quote from: JR on March 29, 2023, 11:16:47 AM

I think you are above me someplace right? Then then are others north of me.

Patch it then look at options?

I'm way up north in Canada. a couple guys will be north of me but not many...lol.

It will be a patch up job for now and I'll keep my eyes open.
There are a few places int he south that have them, so a road trip it will have to be at some point.
Right now its just an eyesore to fix up some.

Sammconn · « **Reply #33 on:** March 30, 2023, 12:51:12 PM »

Oh, and i added a 62 gallon S&B tank to the mix.
Will go in while the box is off.

JR · « **Reply #34 on:** March 30, 2023, 01:00:58 PM »

I just saw a cab for $500.

Nate · « **Reply #35 on:** March 30, 2023, 07:15:33 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on March 30, 2023, 12:51:12 PM

Oh, and i added a 62 gallon S&B tank to the mix.
Will go in while the box is off.

Make sure you swap out the old fuel lines and don't let them get pinched. The morons who put my 52 gal titan in my LBZ charged me for new lines that they did not swap out and they pinched one of the lines, which in turn caused a premature cp3 failure.

Sammconn · « **Reply #36 on:** April 20, 2023, 09:54:07 AM »

So an update for everyone...

Don't go live in the sticks...

Everyone hates shipping to me...LOL
Well not LOL, but i have to laugh or I'd go nuts.

One company I'm dealing with (Or tryin to) "Has staff issues", and three weeks after my order say it will be 3-5 weeks to get the stuff.
This is ok if the clock started day one, not so much if not the case. And with their lack of comms, I still don't know this answer a week later.
I won't publicly diss them yet, as I understand fully the tight on staff pinch, although mine is not based on the propaganda of the Dem-panic.
But it would be nice to answer the phone, or an email more than 24 hours apart...
Rant off.

The second outfit, which at least is communicating, is struggling with shipping, as "the courier companies charge a lot to ship to you, do you have an address in Winnipeg?"
Well duh, none of them come here. So, I'm working with them to get in touch with the truck freight companies that do. 700 miles away is no use to me...
At least they answer emails in a timely fashion.
I ordered a new tailgate from them, so awkwardly large for courier, and dangerously small for truck...
Easy button pressed to repair tailgate, however.
If I can get that sorted, these guys have the rockers I need, and the rest I can Rock Auto, who are rockstars apparently.

At this point, my bug free May body and paint work looks to be pushing to June.
I'm not going to sink any battleships just to be a few days late getting stuff and not having the truck road ready for my grandson's birthday.
Apparently, my work tent is requested for the party, so if it was new in box would be possibly better than painted...

Sammconn · « **Reply #37 on:** May 23, 2023, 04:46:31 PM »

So, lots happening in my world.
All of my parts are finally here...well almost, some ended up in the city due to shipping conundrums.

And I started a thing.

Removal of this may cause a trigger for some of y’all.

It’s as bad as it looks. Maybe worse.

Trace out the margins with sharpie.

And full send.

Wheel house and arch all out.

Sammconn · « **Reply #38 on:** May 23, 2023, 04:54:30 PM »

A little clean up inside the panels with scrapers, wire brush and sprayed some rust oleum primer to buy me some years.

Then the grinder to clean up some steel.

The repeated tedious test fits.

And starting to glue it back together.

Lots of dots…
And not the normal DOT this site is familiar with. Lol.

Done for the evening.
Only a few hours in so far.

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Sammconn · « **Reply #39 on:** May 23, 2023, 04:57:44 PM »

Then onto the drivers side.
Much the same but worse in the decay department.

No need to repeat the laundry cycle.

Rain was coming later yestertag.
I head south Thursday.
Not getting body work and paint done.

So I Volkswagen’d it.
Farfromgooden…

But guudfromfar…

A huge clean up from Friday.
This will seal it up till I get to the next page.

About 9 hours in so far for anyone keeping track.
It seems so far I’m on official auto body shop type time line.

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JR · « **Reply #40 on:** May 23, 2023, 05:51:47 PM »

Looks better for sure. You really just need a bed.

Shipping to CN I won't do either (well maybe for some) Sold a part on Ebay once, got hit with a 10% tax from CN a month or so later.

Sammconn · « **Reply #41 on:** May 23, 2023, 07:57:00 PM »

Yeah I sure do. This will buy me a couple years maybe even a bit beyond.
I need a road trip.
Between customs shipping and taxes and duties I just can’t do it.
Triples the cost at least.
Just need to stop the world for a few weeks to make time. Lol.

JR · « **Reply #42 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:03:11 PM »

Yeah, with customs and shipping just make a road trip and replace the bed on site. Same truck, new bed, no shipping, no customs and a little trip.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:05:53 PM »

This is not a show truck so that repair is fine. You're right, it will buy you a bunch of years. Think about spraying some 3M cavity wax on the underside. That will stabilize it and waterproof it for more than 10 years.

I did that to my Chevy and after 12 years, it has zero rust. Not even scaly stuff. Get the 6" wands with the 360 nozzles and come in through the taillights after you remove them...

Sammconn · « **Reply #44 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:17:33 PM »

I haven’t done any bodywork yet. That will come right before paint.
This was just to seal it up for now.

The cavity between is done too.
80% of the paint was flaking.
It’s bad.

I’ll look for the cavity wax however as everything will help buy time.
When I paint the bed will be off so access will be better for the insides too.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:24:58 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on May 23, 2023, 08:17:33 PM

I haven’t done any bodywork yet. That will come right before paint.
This was just to seal it up for now.

The cavity between is done too.
80% of the paint was flaking.
It’s bad.

I’ll look for the cavity wax however as everything will help buy time.
When I paint the bed will be off so access will be better for the insides too.

So, if it's off, any chance of getting it dipped and coated right out of the rinse tank?

Sammconn · « **Reply #46 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:32:33 PM »

No not really.
It’s my way to get to wherever that would be.
I just need to plan a vacation and do it.
The other part that may or may not be public knowledge here is I’d like to long box it too.
So I’m not putting 100% in any particular direction just yet.
If I can find a 25 or 3500 long box frame that is worth it’s salt that’s a game changer.
Had a bead on one relatively local but it had been SAS’d by a hack.
No good.
So yeah, I’m just gonna limp it along for now.

Sammconn · « **Reply #47 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:42:39 PM »

Oh.
The other thing I started.
On the parts truck, doors are coming over.
Got the eraser wheel out and debaged and demoulded.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #48 on:** May 23, 2023, 08:56:13 PM »

100% support all long bed life choice. I’ll NEVER Go back as long as I have a thing to tow.

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JR · « **Reply #49 on:** May 23, 2023, 09:02:51 PM »

I see them all over the place down here. Some are totals but a long bed is just the rear welded onto a front frame. Cut it off weld it on and seal it.

If you have a CC, you have a long bed truck. I like turning better vs long bed. We all have our preferances.