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A few notes on light discipline

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Higher Caliber:
Add solid knowledge or experience as you see fit

Light discipline

-Bright stationary lights will conceal your movement behind them or at least obscure the enemies view of you.
-a bright burst of light will immediately remove the enemies acquired night vision by constricting their pupils.
-When moving about at night I use a small key chain light if anything for movement and a bright WML or torch for illuminating an adversary.
-during tactical night movement if you must illuminate your scene. Stop, cast your light at an azimuth contradictory to your intended path for a short burst and immediately move. You will use the ambient light created to guide you, but won't give away your intended route.
-never find yourself backlit or backlight a friendly. If you find yourself backlit, use your own torch or WML to replace the light your shadow has cast.
-don't shine your torch in your buddies eyes jacking around immediately before moving in to darkness.
-avoid the temptation to focus on distant lights, headlights, or others lights.
-avoid using light for convenience
-if time is not critical, allow four-six minutes for your eyes to adjust to darkness before movements.

BobbyB:

--- Quote from: Higher Caliber on May 17, 2015, 01:16:59 PM ---Add solid knowledge or experience as you see fit

Light discipline

-Bright stationary lights will conceal your movement behind them or at least obscure the enemies view of you.
-a bright burst of light will immediately remove the enemies acquired night vision by constricting their pupils.
-When moving about at night I use a small key chain light if anything for movement and a bright WML or torch for illuminating an adversary.
-during tactical night movement if you must illuminate your scene. Stop, cast your light at an azimuth contradictory to your intended path for a short burst and immediately move. You will use the ambient light created to guide you, but won't give away your intended route.
-never find yourself backlit or backlight a friendly. If you find yourself backlit, use your own torch or WML to replace the light your shadow has cast.
-don't shine your torch in your buddies eyes jacking around immediately before moving in to darkness.
-avoid the temptation to focus on distant lights, headlights, or others lights.
-avoid using light for convenience
-if time is not critical, allow four-six minutes for your eyes to adjust to darkness before movements.

--- End quote ---

* Use the black and white cones on the side of your eyes at night to see better.
* Don't look directly at an object.
* Noise travels further at night than day.

Flyin6:
Oh, Bobby, you're right in the Aviator's realm!

To night adapt takes humans 30-45 minutes. That is normally taken care of with the phases of the setting sun. Sunset then civil twilight, end of civil twilight, nautical twilight, end evening nautical twilight, then astronomical twilight. Each phase civil, then nautical, then astronomical twilight are 20 odd minutes in length.

Once fully dark adapted and exposed to more than a short duration high intensity light, you will require 5-45 minutes to re-dark adapt. Bobby's numbers are close and would work for the youthful person, and I'm sure using constraints derived by the Infantry center. The Aviation center uses my numbers derived by the Aero-medical board, a research arm of Army Aviation.

Daylight vision uses focused images on the Fovea Centralis, an area in the center of the back of the eye which has cone cells which distinguish colors. All around the Fovea centralis is the para fovea, an area that has great concentrations of Rod cells, These cells can detect light, but only in hues of gray, no color. This area is not in operation during lighted viewing so you can look directly at an object. However at night the cone cells do not receive enough stimulation (Light) so they stop working. When they do the eye excretes a chemical called Rhodopsin or more commonly known as visual purple.

VP stimulates cone cell activity and you start to see in the dark to some degree. Average human daylight vision is 20/20 which means an object at 20 feet has all the color, shape, texture, shading, and the like as an object which is at 20 feet, hence 20/20. Night vision unaided is 20/200. You can see how poor night vision really is! Also the para fovea is all around the centralis which is now a night blind spots (You have two!) so to see an object at night you need to use "Off center vision." Meaning that you look all around it, but never directly at it, where its image will fall upon blinded cells.

There are books written on the subject and in profession we had to study that in depth. On the annual check rides, one was always asked to explain something about night vision...Like PMS
Photopic  Day vision color, binocular vision (Think depth perception)
Scotopic  Twilight vision mixed but fading colors, binocular vision
Mesopic   Night vision, shades of gray, monocular clues, no depth perception!)

Prepare students, Bobby will be administering a test the end of next week!

TexasRedNeck:
The moon is a lesser light but must still be taken into consideration. It can be used for movement but also casts shadows that you can use to mask movement along tree lines. Don't plan a route for total darkness only to execute when the moon is directly overhead and nearly full.

BobbyB:

--- Quote from: Flyin6 on May 17, 2015, 04:01:39 PM ---Oh, Bobby, you're right in the Aviator's realm!

To night adapt takes humans 30-45 minutes. That is normally taken care of with the phases of the setting sun. Sunset then civil twilight, end of civil twilight, nautical twilight, end evening nautical twilight, then astronomical twilight. Each phase civil, then nautical, then astronomical twilight are 20 odd minutes in length.

Once fully dark adapted and exposed to more than a short duration high intensity light, you will require 5-45 minutes to re-dark adapt. Bobby's numbers are close and would work for the youthful person, and I'm sure using constraints derived by the Infantry center. The Aviation center uses my numbers derived by the Aero-medical board, a research arm of Army Aviation.

Daylight vision uses focused images on the Fovea Centralis, an area in the center of the back of the eye which has cone cells which distinguish colors. All around the Fovea centralis is the para fovea, an area that has great concentrations of Rod cells, These cells can detect light, but only in hues of gray, no color. This area is not in operation during lighted viewing so you can look directly at an object. However at night the cone cells do not receive enough stimulation (Light) so they stop working. When they do the eye excretes a chemical called Rhodopsin or more commonly known as visual purple.

VP stimulates cone cell activity and you start to see in the dark to some degree. Average human daylight vision is 20/20 which means an object at 20 feet has all the color, shape, texture, shading, and the like as an object which is at 20 feet, hence 20/20. Night vision unaided is 20/200. You can see how poor night vision really is! Also the para fovea is all around the centralis which is now a night blind spots (You have two!) so to see an object at night you need to use "Off center vision." Meaning that you look all around it, but never directly at it, where its image will fall upon blinded cells.

There are books written on the subject and in profession we had to study that in depth. On the annual check rides, one was always asked to explain something about night vision...Like PMS
Photopic  Day vision color, binocular vision (Think depth perception)
Scotopic  Twilight vision mixed but fading colors, binocular vision
Mesopic   Night vision, shades of gray, monocular clues, no depth perception!)

Prepare students, Bobby will be administering a test the end of next week!

--- End quote ---

Blaine's numbers, but way to expand the line of thought.

The test will consist of .... what you thought I was actually going to give the outline for the final exam? HA

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