Author Topic: OverLanding Camper Build (Read 74661 times)

Flyin6 · « **on:** October 05, 2019, 11:33:58 AM »

Let's get started on a brand new project. Last year I built my 2002 Suburban 2500 into an overlander with some tactical aspects. I created it with a roof top tent to be able to haul my boys and I around on various trips. Unfortunately, because of ongoing endless build problems, mostly electrical, I did not make the departure gate for that trip. We were all to sleep either in the back of the Burb or in the rooftop tent.

Back at the start of that project, I envisioned completing that trip somewhat smarter about what we needed and incorporate those lessons into a overland trailer created from a surplus Army 1011 HMMV trailer. Initially, I was just thinking I'd fit it out with water, more stuff and move the roof top tent to it and drive on. But while researching that I began to notice the teardrop type campers that people were building specifically for off roading. That peaked my interest. You know, blank sheet of paper sort of thing...Just build everything I ever wanted into a smaller camper and mount that on a robust frame and suspension with some big truck style off road tires.

Back then I stumbled across a rather brilliant young engineer also hailing from Kentucky who built a really cool overland camper and published vids and even plans of his excellent work and design. Link below:

https://www.facebook.com/Shawneehillswoodworking/

So, I watched his vids, then ordered the plans which I downloaded and studied. Then I got started on Sketchup on some designs based around the basic size and concept of Wes's design and came up with this initial concept shown below

Flyin6 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 05, 2019, 11:36:48 AM »

That was only a starting point. I liked the shape, but the idea of walking around back to get to the vittles was not making it with me. That's when I shook up the design to one that had a cooking area and pantry built into the drivers side that just flips open. In its initial incarnation, it looked like this:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 05, 2019, 11:43:48 AM »

Taking that design, I stretched it 16", designed in an integral water tank, and added some features that yielded useable interior space. The camper will have a queen size bunk that converts into a sofa in 30 seconds and even with it stretched out will still afford some floor space to stand, sit or if a potty is in there, talk to a man about a horse!

I think I'll utilize The Wes designed outside foldable shower just because it is one trick and great design. Notice that I added a box to the front of my design that on the drivers side will house a cooler/frig, and a 2.5K generator on the other side. In the middle will be two 6VDC batteries recharged by either the generator or a solar panel. The roof will raise to give plenty of standing room and even open up a spot for an additional person to crash. The roof opening mechanism will differ from the one in the Wes design to be simpler and more robust. Not digging on the Wes design at all, I just want mine a bit more robust.

wyorunner · « **Reply #3 on:** October 05, 2019, 11:58:17 AM »

That is quite the undertaking! Checkout wander the west they have several rebuild and a handful of from scratch builds. All kinds of camper info. And of course expedition overland.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 05, 2019, 12:13:56 PM »

I'll take a look...

Bob Smith · « **Reply #5 on:** October 05, 2019, 01:34:58 PM »

Once you start moving things around or adding things check wheel weights so you don’t get too heavy on one side and tongue weight also.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 05, 2019, 03:31:24 PM »

Just gonna leave this here, there is a whole forum dedicated to these things full of great information

This guy seems to be about as detailed as needed and full of knowledge

7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=39727&share_tid=65498&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftnttt%2Ecom%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D65498&share_type=t&link_source=app

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:02:07 PM »

Quote from: Bob/OlallaWa on October 05, 2019, 01:34:58 PM

Once you start moving things around or adding things check wheel weights so you don’t get too heavy on one side and tongue weight also.

Roger that.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:22:24 PM »

So with the decision made to build this thing, I started back in September with moving things around in my 25 X 25 woodshop to optimize available space while still being able to get at various tools and work stations.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:24:13 PM »

Then I built this table with wheels to build the thing on and be able to motor it around as necessary. I used some notching and a lot of glue to ensure the thing was rigid and strong...It is!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:24:58 PM »

Troop helped with the tenon joints!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:26:58 PM »

The table will carry the bulk of the approximately 1,000 pounds while these two saw horses got a layer of my farm's eastern cedar atop to flush them out and provide a smooth sacrificial surface

Flyin6 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:28:04 PM »

Then I started tool collecting

I added a new woodworker vise to hold things steady on the new work bench

Flyin6 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:29:59 PM »

Knowing I was going to have to make tons of angular precision cuts on sheet goods, I picked up this Makita track saw with a 55" track. After having used it for some time now, I can report it has done a great job on making long, perfectly straight cuts at 90, 22.5, and 45 degrees.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:32:54 PM »

After checking over the field of track saws, I purchased the Makita because in addition of having everything I wanted, it had something no one else I looked at had, this little slide that locked the saw into the track, so you could cut on a side or even upside down if you so desired

Flyin6 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:37:37 PM »

Knowing I was going to have to but join sheet goods, I decided early on that I was going to use a spline to accurately locate the panels and to additionally add strength with the additional glue surface.

To cut the groove, I purchased a plate joiner which would normally be used to cut slots for biscuits, but if you just drag it along, it cuts a pretty quick 5/32" groove which is just asking for a piece of red oak and some glue

Speaking of glue, after researching, I settled on the gorilla wood glue because of its enormous strength, complete water proof finish, and the rapid early bond and finally the quick dry time.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #16 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:39:28 PM »

With the blade protruding outward as far as I can get it, I was able to accomodate a 1 1/4" X 5/32" spline and still have a little room for glue. Having already used it, I can say it provided for super tight and accurate joinery.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:41:10 PM »

I added another table surface or two as I knew I'd have one project clamped up and drying while I was fabricating another. Flat space is always welcomed!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #18 on:** October 05, 2019, 08:44:37 PM »

And I did some of that hastily so that I could easily undue it after the camper build if I wanted to add a new tool in there later on.

So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now, but just held off on posting it, hoping to first be able to report the Burb was completed, so I didn't have one project hanging while another was in full swing. But, I guess I really wanted to get the box completed well before Christmas so i could spend the following 5-6 months building the steel parts and fitting the thing out. In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in.

Farmer Jon · « **Reply #19 on:** October 06, 2019, 10:35:07 AM »

I am not fond of pop up trailers. The roof gets heavy. Canvas can leak. It gets torn. Mice eat holes in it. How much taller would it be to make the roof high enough to walk around in?

If it must be a pop up maybe consider hard sides rather than canvas.

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #20 on:** October 06, 2019, 10:44:06 AM »

Glad to hear about the track saw. I have that same saw in my “saved for later” on Amazon.

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wyorunner · « **Reply #21 on:** October 06, 2019, 11:21:02 AM »

Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?

hammer7896 · « **Reply #22 on:** October 06, 2019, 12:48:37 PM »

That track saw is great. I’ve had mine for at least 5 years

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KensAuto · « **Reply #23 on:** October 06, 2019, 06:26:14 PM »

Don: "So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now....In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in."

Uh, so where's the pics?

stlaser · « **Reply #24 on:** October 06, 2019, 06:32:01 PM »

Typical democrat move, hey look over here forget about the suburban build.....

Flyin6 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:01:32 PM »

Quote from: Farmer Jon on October 06, 2019, 10:35:07 AM

I am not fond of pop up trailers. The roof gets heavy. Canvas can leak. It gets torn. Mice eat holes in it. How much taller would it be to make the roof high enough to walk around in?

If it must be a pop up maybe consider hard sides rather than canvas.

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Jon, its about weight, CG on off camber, and did I mention weight.

I'm going with the poly canvas and roll with it. If it gets dinged up, I'll just repair.

And, a bit too late in the build process for any changes that big, but thanks just the same!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:02:51 PM »

Quote from: KensAuto on October 06, 2019, 06:26:14 PM

Don: "So, if the truth be known I have been building the camper for awhile now....In any event it is currently something you can climb into and walk around in."

Uh, so where's the pics?

They're comin' Kenneth

Patience...Patience ma friend!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:05:17 PM »

Quote from: wyorunner on October 06, 2019, 11:21:02 AM

Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?

T- Not going into a 1011. Its a stand alone will have its own steel frame and independent high clearance trailing arm suspension.

I was just eluding to where this started in my mind a year or so ago. To build out a 1011 and roll with that. But that size limits me somewhat, so I just went blank sheet of paper.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:07:40 PM »

So the actual camper build started here with 12 fresh sheets of 3/4 ABX plywood from Menards

This was the best material for the money I found anywhere...And they loaded it for me!

Scha-weet

Flyin6 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:09:14 PM »

You can see that I have been berry, berry, busy cipherin'

And let me tell ya, piluts do a lot of cipherin

Word around these parts is that only dem engineers cipher any more than piluts!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #30 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:11:35 PM »

So day one was a slow go with lots of measuring, marking and cutting.

The track saw started to feel familiar after the day was done.

Here are the three pieces which later formed the floor

Flyin6 · « **Reply #31 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:13:31 PM »

And then the front section of the sides were cut minus the door and window cutouts. I didn't get the door and windows until about a week after cutting these, so I wanted to wait to be sure I didn't relegate some sheet goods to the burn pile!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:15:06 PM »

I ripped pieces of red oak down to just under 1/4" then planed them until I had them just under 5/32".

These are the splines used to but join adjacent sheets of plywood

Flyin6 · « **Reply #33 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:16:51 PM »

So employing the plate joiner improperly, I abused it in the making of the long slots cut into the ends of the ply

The test piece shows how well the pieces fit together afterward

Flyin6 · « **Reply #34 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:20:28 PM »

Now somewhere in here I started spending days and nights at the children's hospital watching yet another MRSA infection in my youngest. But in true ranger tradition, he attacked this superior force and defeated it, allowing me to drag our fatigued buttoxes back home to sleep it off for a day

But back to it, here is the very first glue/spline joint going together.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:22:34 PM »

I scabbed over it with a 5" wide section of ply because I could. The walls and floor will receive a layer of 3/4" foam board, so a piece of ply won't take up any more space.

stlaser · « **Reply #36 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:24:43 PM »

Don, at heart you’re a wood guy. Wood guys start these builds with wood first, steel guys would start with the steel frame and suspension etc then build out the wood on top of that. In my mind (steel guy speak here) it is easier to keep the wood square etc after having a steel frame built. Probably makes no difference just how my brain works.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:24:54 PM »

Here is most of the floor assembled together. The gorilla glue dries faster than the titebond I have used for years. Even the scabbed sections are glued and screwed.

Frankly, later on, I may just remove all the screws as they are really not needed.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #38 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:25:36 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on October 06, 2019, 07:24:43 PM

Don, at heart you’re a wood guy. Wood guys start these builds with wood first, steel guys would start with the steel frame and suspension etc then build out the wood on top of that. In my mind (steel guy speak here) it is easier to keep the wood square etc after having a steel frame built. Probably makes no difference just how my brain works.

Copy that, ghost rider!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 06, 2019, 07:26:57 PM »

Showing that cool track saw at an angle held in place with that little tab thing-ah-ma-giggy

dave945 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 06, 2019, 08:25:25 PM »

I really like that saw. Especially not having a table saw and hating cutting long straight lines with my circular saw.

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wyorunner · « **Reply #41 on:** October 06, 2019, 08:59:14 PM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on October 06, 2019, 07:05:17 PM

Quote from: wyorunner on October 06, 2019, 11:21:02 AM
Chief, I guess I’m not following completely... is the end goal to put this in an 1101? Or use an axle from an 1101?
T- Not going into a 1011. Its a stand alone will have its own steel frame and independent high clearance trailing arm suspension.

I was just eluding to where this started in my mind a year or so ago. To build out a 1011 and roll with that. But that size limits me somewhat, so I just went blank sheet of paper.

Ok this makes sense! Thanks for watering down the mud so I can see through it! Good call on blank slate. My brother finished his truck camper about two months ago, he started from nothing as well! Good luck and stay positive!

JR · « **Reply #42 on:** October 06, 2019, 10:11:19 PM »

This all adds up with the plywood question a couple weeks back. Good call on the gorilla glue, its great.

Yep, most would have built the frame first, must be a wood guy

I agree on not using the 1011, it is wide and tall. They do tow good though and have lots of room

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #43 on:** October 06, 2019, 11:42:37 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on October 06, 2019, 06:32:01 PM

Typical democrat move, hey look over here forget about the suburban build.....

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #44 on:** October 07, 2019, 07:34:36 PM »

Forgot to show this...The 22.5 degree cut made in a 72" edge of the 3/4" for the front piece

Flyin6 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 07, 2019, 07:36:58 PM »

Front face going on, held with a handy 90 degree temporary brace

All panel sections are screwed together with #8 X 2" on 8" centers and glued as well. So far the joints are proving to be rock solid

Flyin6 · « **Reply #46 on:** October 07, 2019, 07:38:07 PM »

The sides were fitted with the windows and a door, marked, then cut out before assembly

Flyin6 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 07, 2019, 07:38:58 PM »

Then assembled to the floor and front panels

Flyin6 · « **Reply #48 on:** October 07, 2019, 07:40:16 PM »

Still way early in the assembly process, but its beginning to show its size

Flyin6 · « **Reply #49 on:** October 07, 2019, 08:00:59 PM »

So lets discuss weather proofing a little

For the inside, I think just some deck type water proofer stuff like Thompsons or similar may be plenty. Much the same as the entrance to one's house, the inside should see very little in the way of water/rain and snow. Plus the walls will be covered with foam insulation board, then with some interior cladding/panel, possibly mapel sheeting which would be spar varnished

But the outside will have to fend off the elements.

I have pretty much settled on spraying tintable Raptor Liner onto the underside and at least 30" up the side as a final outer coat, but I need to start with some base coat.

Right now I am thinking I prime the entire wood surface with Kilz or similar primer, then top coat that with a quality garage floor epoxy, probably in gray. Now stopping right there would constitute a pretty good moisture barrier and fend off scratches as well, so could I possibly stop right there for some surfaces? And would garage floor epoxy be UV resistant enough to hold up under years of sun?

Anyway, I will top coat over that in part with the Raptor coating, but should I coat the whole thing in Raptor? Could I possibly get away with the primer/epoxy two coat system?

Thoughts?