OK, been spending so much time on SquareD that Poor C-Max (Combat max, and yes it's a joke...) has been neglected.
Well, not completely. Recently I had to rebuild the AD165 fuel pump, which I would no longer recommend due to the fact that the motor failed for no good reason in about 35,000 miles!
I had not registered my purchase with AirDog and although I had the receipt, they would not warranty the unit and I paid something short of $300 for new parts. No worries, Fass is out there along with others for my future builds.
With that done, one of the crappy HID headlights burned out, then a second, then a third, and then one of the HID Hella, spots. What did I learn from that? I am done with the HID junk which is mostly awful and cheaply made chinaman junk. The Chinese manufacturers spend more time on packaging and bling than on product quality.
Want another example? I had two of the ball joints wear out in those Cognito control arms, They did not last 40,000 miles! Having discovered the worn ball joints while on the alignment rack we decided to change them on the spot so they did with parts from AutoZone from across the street (Read: Cheap junky Chinese parts!) Well today I was looking at the not quite year old ball joints with maybe 1.000 miles on them and noticed the rubber grease boots are heavily cracked, nearly through at this time, so the ball joints will need replacement again.
Well onto the HID replacement. First the radiator guard, grill, and headlights get pulled
Curious to hear how you like the LED bulbs for the headlights. I'm in the market for something different for my 13 but don't want to go the hid route with it.For the short term usage report, of about a week-10 days, I give them high marks. Having said that, the HID's were outstanding during the same time frame.
Glad to see Cmax is alive and don has hurt himself since i was last present. My cognito ball joints also went out but i replaced them with some moog ones aka "problem solvers" and I've put 3,000 on them with not a sign of damage (just got another alignment before i left and there was zero play). Hows the knee big don?Hey Bro...Velcro still keeping you busy I see...
yep, you need somethin up on that roof. It looks bare!!! Maybe an LED light bar or 2 that could be moved to a rack later?
Don where did you order the led lights from. And whats the new verdict now that they have been in for a bit.Well, it hasn't been very long but they are a solid A+ thus far. Lots of light and a hint of blue (6000K) just like the HID's. I like bluish hues because of my NVG night flying days. Less eye strain IMHO.
I haven't seen him go off like that in a whileI woke up after dreaming Obama was still the president and still commander in chief of honorable men and women...put me in a foul mood!
Little TLC on the C-Max is a good thing...Copy that!
Nice to see it get some love too!
Don where did you order the led lights from. And whats the new verdict now that they have been in for a bit.Well, it hasn't been very long but they are a solid A+ thus far. Lots of light and a hint of blue (6000K) just like the HID's. I like bluish hues because of my NVG night flying days. Less eye strain IMHO.
They have a smallish control box/power supply or whatever that thing is. About 1/4 the bulk and clutter as those junky chinaman HID's
Comment here, anybody notice that the low quality Chinaman junk is actually of an even lower quality these days? Chinaman brake rotors require turning to true them out of the box. Chinaman rubber like my HF air hoses and A-zone ball joints boots fail in about a year as opposed to firestone and Goodyear stuff still good after 10 years. Chinaman electronics are all temporary.
-------------------REALLY LONG POST-------------
Cibies, I had those on an LUV truck mini pickup. Sure worked good.Agree!
Some times the tech is to tech.
Don remember the Cibie Oscars? They are on my want list for our Dodge project...I just have to find some old ones. I much prefer the old school lights my self.Remember them, and like them!
Heard good things about these pumps...Kyle,
https://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=399
Just drive it another year or so then paint it OD green. Scratches add character.Man if you only knew
who is that guy in the reflection there??????????
OD and 37s would be just right on there. To big n you loose the driveability.
My wife tells me I'm backwoods country all the time. Funny thing is she uses my silly little phrases all the time and acts more like me the longer we're together. Took me 15 years to get her where she is. Another 15 and she'll be fully converted.
Don, what RPM do you pull at around 70? I just got 4.56 from Randys and have 35s like you. It sure seems happy in 5th vs 6th with rpm around 1900.Hmmm, err...
I have been running mine in OD 5th, vs 6th. I think it was lugging before.I'm late to the show figuring that out...That D-Max's like higher than normal for diesel cruise RPM's. Mine is running like a champ around 2200-2400. Mileage even picks up. Best mileage is country driving @50 and below. Will typically bet 18.something unloaded to/from the farm, and 16.5 towing the Armee trailer same route.
I have heard that they are happy around 2-2200 cruzing, but it seems high for a diesel, smaller V8 or not
Now, go drive SD so I can finalize my Spartan trans plans!!!
You gotta get rid of the z71 decals, Don.
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You gotta get rid of the z71 decals, Don.
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Grizzly + right foot= wear ::)Lockers will definitely wear the tires mo-quickly. That's why the Gov-Lock came about. Not really a locker until the wheel loses traction and spools up the clockwork. A real locker will lock up immediately under power the instant tire spin happens. So it doesn't wait until you've dug a hole and mixed up the mud to a slippery mess before giving you the dual wheel traction you need to get away from the mess.
never thought about a truck wash, but I do get the underbody spray.
Dumb question. Will 17s fit the LML? pretty sure LMMs had them, not sure on our newer ones.
...never mind, I googled it. I guess some came with them.
Dumb question. Will 17s fit the LML? pretty sure LMMs had them, not sure on our newer ones.My spare tire/wheel is a 17
...never mind, I googled it. I guess some came with them.
My spare tire/wheel is a 17
I do believe the LML came with a larger front brake, so it was a valid question
Don,Dave, can you post a pic pretty please?
I have the same wheels you have on my LBZ, in the 17 x 10. I found that with the nine wide wheel it was hard to get even tire wear so I switched to the 10 wide wheel allowing less ballon. I also have bfg ATs with 40k miles mostly freeway. Fantastic tire and the new model should be even better
Is yours a 2011?My spare tire/wheel is a 17
I do believe the LML came with a larger front brake, so it was a valid question
Weird...my spare is an 18, but the truck came w/20s
It's cold outside donAh, forget it
Don, I think I've read that 18" is the size to stick with because the 17" tires can't carry as much weight and there's less selection in a 17". I may be wrong though.I thought it was the other way around
It's cold outside donAh, forget it
Your (Cool) wheels won't fit anyway!
Edit: I wanted to say "Wimp" but I'll settle on "Girly Man" instead. Cold! That just means you can work harder and stay warm! We have guys on here livin' near the artic circle, fightin' polar bears when they go outside to take a squat! Man up for gosh sake, we don't want to show we's weak knee'in life down here!
You'll have to apply some self corrective punishment and report back!
Is yours a 2011?
Mine came with 20" wheels as well, but a 17" spare
Don, I think I've read that 18" is the size to stick with because the 17" tires can't carry as much weight and there's less selection in a 17". I may be wrong though.I thought it was the other way around
Anyone care to comment?
I was wrong about something decades ago, so I might have just done it again! ;-))
Don, I think I've read that 18" is the size to stick with because the 17" tires can't carry as much weight and there's less selection in a 17". I may be wrong though.I thought it was the other way around
Anyone care to comment?
I was wrong about something decades ago, so I might have just done it again! ;-))
FlyIn6 where did you get your LED light bulbs for your replacement of the HID bulbs?Err, ah...I think "SuperbriteLEDs.com"
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Can that happen if they didn't reset the TPMS sensors when they rotated the tires?Those sensors are in a pressurized tube in my center console
Try having the tires rotated back to where they were and see if the problem stops?Not going to experiment. The fronts are down to about a third of tread depth, going to replace them since I really need to do that anyway.
So you order 2 complete sets (or did you mean a set meaning 2) of tires, PLUS two of what you already have for a total of 10 tires, IOT see which tires you like better?You got it!
I like your style.
Sounds like the anti-lock brakes computer and/or the traction control unit gone crazy. Wonder if the pinched something putting it up on the lift?That's what I was thinking...
Dump the TC, tune or pull fuse.I actually think the traction control is saving my butt. It all initiates when I make a steering input at around 30 mph on a country road (Today). I turn left a little bit and the front end takes a much bigger bite into the turn causing a noticeable body roll. When the vehicle rolls, I counter steers then something actuates and you can hear and feel a front caliper bite into the rotor. That straightens it up or causes the roll in the opposite direction which starts the whole process over. I would say the truck is unsafe above 30 mph on anything but a super mild curve.
My bet is ABS since TC normally kills power and ABS controls the brake to each wheel.
You'd think if that were the problem it'd have issues going straight too, not just turning...I'll give ya a big A-Men on that note!
Definitely need to get this nailed down and fixed before booking up that 35 footer on the back...
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Seriously Don, it sounds like the steering wheel position sensor went awol. Someone needs to scan the abs/traction systems for codes before you get hurt.OK, Ken wilco
Maybe you need to rotate the winter air out of those tires. Try the spring air and see if it helpsDave...I had winter nitrogen in there...Tire store still on #2 winter nitrogen...Spring nitrogen only sold in, well, the spring...WHAT SHOULD I DO????????????
Raising boys into RealMen!!
What store are you shopping at?Tire discounters, which I believe is local to northern KY/Southwestern OH
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I am glad it is fixed for you. But it still doesn't make any sense. Changing tires shouldn't have any affect on the electrical systems.
Ken, give the R/Ts a look as well if you haven't already. Mine have performed flawlessly this winter on the highway and in some light off-road and muddy field work. The fit right between the A/T 2s and M/Ts.
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/pattern/open-country-rt-on-off-road-rugged-terrain-tires
How many miles did you get out of the old toyo?I think those got me around 25,000 and were about one forth remaining
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I am glad it is fixed for you. But it still doesn't make any sense. Changing tires shouldn't have any affect on the electrical systems.The loss of traction light and system came on because the grossly different traction between the nearly new to nearly worn out tires caused the front end to bite into the turns like never before. You see the rear is where you should put the best tires. The rear is the part of the vehicle where it is most stable, or in a way of thinking, the part that is anchored. With my old tires the rear end was loose. It was slipping and spinning a bit and rotating the newer tires back there stopped all that nonsense. Then the poorer tires placed on the front now caused more erratic steering which was more pronounced since the rear end was now more stable. That caused unnecessary rolling to take place as rates built up quickly. The rate at which the vehicle was rolling exceeded the parameters for the traction control system causing illumination of the light.
There wasn't anything wrong with any electrical system.
I will never go with BFG AT's on my truck again.
I am running a set of mastercraft at's and am satisfied so far.
I drove across grass once
Hmm. I came up with 2900 for 35s, yet 3500 on the 37s....both load D rated.
Weird.
Don/everyone. If you folks want a fast painless way to buff out tree branch scratches, orange peel, fresh paint, or even old faded paint let me know. I can do a lil write up on a painless process. I can buff out Patches rust and pantina. LOL
Time to get the portercable orbital. Random orbitals take a lot of the guess work out and a lot less stress on the user. Invest in a good three step compound from the Maguires commercial lineup. Should fix a lot of your scratchesCopy that.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I have heard that a few times about the HF buffer.35's do look small, but I think I'll stand fast right here.
CM looks good though. Those 35 almost look small.
Gas? I hope you're not putting gas in C-Max ;)Hmmm, that could be my mileage problem!
Yeah don't think the tuck gets that cold this time of year to be adding gas to the diesel fuel....I've never done that...to my truck
Bear does the same to XJ. But if those don't work out, Duluth Trading company has seat covers in different styles that are made out of the same stuff fire hoses are. So they should be able to handle GSD hair and dog claws. I'm thinking about ordering a couple things to try out.We got our dog one of those firehose toys and she had a rip in it the very first day. Hopefully it stands up better to toenails.
http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/sitesearchresults.aspx?pg=1&p_keyword=dog+car+seat+covers&p_utk=seat&p_search_sid=&gndr=&p_origin=mens-home&processor=content
Bear does the same to XJ. But if those don't work out, Duluth Trading company has seat covers in different styles that are made out of the same stuff fire hoses are. So they should be able to handle GSD hair and dog claws. I'm thinking about ordering a couple things to try out.I didn't know Duluth made any or I might have ordered them
http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/sitesearchresults.aspx?pg=1&p_keyword=dog+car+seat+covers&p_utk=seat&p_search_sid=&gndr=&p_origin=mens-home&processor=content
We got our dog one of those firehose toys and she had a rip in it the very first day. Hopefully it stands up better to toenails.
I didn't know Duluth made any or I might have ordered them
Now, having said that, Duluth is expensive!
I paid $22 for the door covers and $36 for the hammock. I feel that was pretty reasonable and that's why I am trying it out
Got a Duluth Trading Store being built right by Cabelas 2 miles from me.......gonna be nice!
I powdered my stock f350 squally wheels & they turned out great, just a thought.....We had a powder coating guy here, but he went out of business.
I always mount the high lift so my wife can reach it easily. Those things are heavy.... ;DI thought of doing two uprights and weld onto the front bumper, kinda ARB style. Then sink the jack down into the arrangement where it serves also as a radiator guard, but easy to grab if needed.
Why don't you secure the pioneer tool kit to the inside of the topper door? Secured, out of sight - out of mind, always in the same place.That's where I hang the BOB on one side and the medical bag on the other door.
Maybe fashion something like the pioneer tool rack that hangs on the under side of the hmmwv and shoe horn it where the oem spare sits??????
Hmmmm, thought sq d had pioneering equipment on it????? ;)Watch the low blows fellas
Before ya go painting your wheels, I'll take a photo of the same wheel that I just got polished, $30 bucks a wheel is almost cheaper then labor to prep and paintThat's a good price...BUT...
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Thanks Norm. Learn several things new every day reading this site. 8)
Howdy Mikey 8)
I've done show n shine spray before too, after polishing which goes on clear and shines up further, lasts for a few weeks at a time from my experience.
... I see the rolling tool bin there to the right is still in the same place..... ;D
I thought for a second that folding chair was an er welding chair with osb attached to it!That should read: Rolling parts Bin!
& I see the rolling tool bin there to the right is still in the same place..... ;D
Man, you're even hard on headlights! ::)Sam,
The new ones sure look bright. Or the fogs in the bumper are worn out too...
How do you go threw airbags like that, is something rubbing?Yep
Yeah, I came out to find my new Nittos with a slow leak on the driver's rear. Apparently driving all over the hunting lease trails put something like a weesatch thorn in my tire. It is a very slow leak to take 2 weeks to get from 70 to 30So far G-T-G,
What the B&G (blur and glare) actually conceals is 19.3!That's impressive! My LB7 with 265 BFG and/or 285 Coopers only averaged 17.8 over the last year. (http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n498/jamesguilliams/Vehicles/ED84BD35-80C2-4DCA-B49D-CB9D3F487071.png) (http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/jamesguilliams/media/Vehicles/ED84BD35-80C2-4DCA-B49D-CB9D3F487071.png.html)
Do you think the 4.56 gears (coupled with Isiah 6:8 of course) may be the reason for your good mileage? So far as I can tell, getting these pigs moving takes more fuel than maintaining momentum. Years ago, when I lifted and put 35s on my 89 K1500 I thought I would get better mileage because the motor would run at lower rpm while cruising around. Boy was I wrong.Could be...
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What the B&G (blur and glare) actually conceals is 19.3!That's impressive! My LB7 with 265 BFG and/or 285 Coopers only averaged 17.8 over the last year. (http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n498/jamesguilliams/Vehicles/ED84BD35-80C2-4DCA-B49D-CB9D3F487071.png) (http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/jamesguilliams/media/Vehicles/ED84BD35-80C2-4DCA-B49D-CB9D3F487071.png.html)
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I have 4.56 for mine as 410 seemed a little low, but 4.30s are not there.
Funny how the 35 tire just measures 33 at rest! I was guessing 34.5 or similar and there is still lots of tread.
Yes he is.
The big filter and the oil has been around for some 30,000 miles!Did I read somewhere you had a UOA done recently? Are yo happy with that setup?
Sorry, used oil analysis.Yes, I was sending in samples each time the oil counter hit zero.
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OMG, what are you looking at getting since SD isn't up yet?
OMG, what are you looking at getting since SD isn't up yet?Stock power wagon
OK, truck is for sale.Boooooo!!!
Listed in the classified section with the details...
You should post "For Sale" to that other site.......Mike, I think that ship left the port!
I've always considered 5 years as cranking battery life.From what I have learned about how batteries "Die" it has to do with the charging and discharging which causes a chemical reaction. The results of that reaction is a byproduct which creates a plaque on the lead surfaces. I think I am right about that
But with the -40's we see it really wears them down.
First time I need to boost, new batteries, which seems to be at the 5 year point for me.
Don do solar panels get beat up in excessive heat? I know that kind of sounds weird as they are made to go in the sun......so I know the panel part itself absorbs the sun and heats up but I wonder if any other parts of the panel (wiring etc.) can't take heat and inside a vehicle might get too hot for them to survive long term?I don't know that heat 'hurts' them, but it's likely not best case for them.
So what's the consensus on these upgrade headlights? Every time I read about someone upgrading there are issues. Ashley & I were discussing this awhile back & after many trials he said just add a good rigid light bar & call it a day. Which is my intention on the jk as I have the parts just need to mount & wire it.Well, when they work, they work well. Crisp, clear light, but LED's do not have the range that halogen lights do.
So in reality Ashley was right? :popcorn:I guess so
I had some Amsoil 75W-90 left over so I shoved that inside Shawn's excellent rear diff cover
It does! And the position allows me to run more oil than called for if I want (And I do)I had some Amsoil 75W-90 left over so I shoved that inside Shawn's excellent rear diff cover
We must have machined a nice drain plug in that cover, makes changing gear oil a snap.
I was more meaning the faces of the hubs staying flat-true, so as not to induce wobble.It's paint bro!
I might be overthinking this tho too.
I bet the paint will level out enough for a 37 inch tire.I'll hopefully get some paint on the Chebby's wheels today, but unfortunately I am right in the middle of several daze of rain!
Don, I just used some more of that rustolium 15 minute paint on the subs wheels and it turned out nice. I used silver and it matches the grey I used before nicely.
Are you thinking about this SAS conversionNot at the moment
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Oh and while I was at it
Shawn you're the moderator
and your desert friend is too
(Guilt through association rule)
Ken, Shawn...Go get em'
Don, just a thought on the bubbles in the wheel finish.Sam, no sir, none of the above
Could it be moisture in the compressed air, or the fact it was thinner ( possible not compatible ) and sprayed vice brushed.
I say the latter not knowing the application instructions.
Go get em soldier!Oh and while I was at it
Shawn you're the moderator
and your desert friend is too
(Guilt through association rule)
Ken, Shawn...Go get em'
Oh boy, rats in charge of the cheese..... :popcorn:
Looks good from far, so good enough for what they need to do.Check out the sawmill thread...I opened one of those up today...
I spy a couple cedars on a trailer, still in log form...
Any chance that results would have been better with multiple super thin coats?I don't know Charles
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Tate, I know what the stopper is, just not seen em that big!
That is a lot of light!! Do the bumper lights work?Yes, the four Warn fog lights in the bumper work, but don't put out very much light
Not sure if you covered it but what is the big puck on the (synthetic?) winch rope?
Source price and part number for the klieg lights?Ahhh, errr...
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by the way. that's old school way of adding lights. Kinda like that idea compared to the silly kids with their 86 inch light barsCopy that
This is C-Max's first kill
These scuff marks is where a family member's Honda Prelude (I think its a prelude) gave up it's tail light, rear bumper and quarter panel. I only have the scuff marks but my poor nefew's car is all ganked up. He backed into my truck on Easter...
Naw.This is C-Max's first kill
These scuff marks is where a family member's Honda Prelude (I think its a prelude) gave up it's tail light, rear bumper and quarter panel. I only have the scuff marks but my poor nefew's car is all ganked up. He backed into my truck on Easter...
You filing a claim on his insurance??
Definition of insult to injury
Gotta get some kill count stickers to put on the driver's door now.Remember this:
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Sure do! Now it sits collecting dust... :facepalm:I'll see what I can do...
But the C-Max needs them now too...
Eww, I got the same cognito support system. Better go check mine, she's been feeling loose for a couple months now. ...just hate lying on my back.
Next I backed up, crushing my Nikon camera, became ill, and quit for the day!
Next I backed up, crushing my Nikon camera, became ill, and quit for the day!Oh, that's a horrible way to get ill...
For the record, I knew what both of you would think. # Fishingforidiots
;P
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Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
You are right, the ball joint goes beneath the control arm...counter intutive to me, but sa'-live'Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
It also has a raised lip that rides inside the UCA pocket there. That is a lot of stress on 4 little bolts with a lift and big tires.
Might be why you are tearing up the boots too, that lip is rubbing on the boot.
Stop setting your camera on the ground,,,,,,,,,
X2. I would have thought the rear would be the place to start. What was the cost of the kit?I'll look into it Tex
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Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
X2. I would have thought the rear would be the place to start. What was the cost of the kit?I'll look into it Tex
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Only reason I stay away from messing with the rear is that 70%-80% of suspension articulation occurs in the rear. I need that with the nature of the off road I did yesterday and 2X times a week. But a smaller rear bar might not adversely affect that since this is mostly a on road truck and the country road driving it the predominate negative to the feel of the thing.
Who has one? Addco?
Hey Ash!I thought some gator ate you a year or two back!Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
WOW!! I just looked back on my install from about 50 years ago seems like, and I did the exact same thing Don. Had them mounted on top instead of on bottom...
Glad to see the black truck still putting in work. :likebutton:
Hey Don, what about a disconnecting sway bar. Best of both worlds.Maybe it's just a PNW thing, but I think we're on to something. I actually researched this a bit, and couldn't find anything, but there's nothing stopping you from fabbing up some poly bushing heim jointed custom bad boys. think these but way bigger:
Hey Don, what about a disconnecting sway bar. Best of both worlds.I don't think this truck reaches that level. It's a driver, and a hauler. I just end up in the mud and on uneven terrain at the end of the drive, that's all.
since the differentials for the Ram Power wagon and the duramax are the same now, you might "acquire" a QD set from one to test it out, you know for posterity and all. I think what Ryan and all are trying to get at is you commented you didn't want to lose articulation in the rear where you needed it most, but also wanted to add a sway bar. with the QD concept you get both. You're not doing more than you need, or converting it into a mulch bed destroyer, just enough to get what you want out of it. (I wonder if I sound like you to your wife trying to sell her on some new piece of equipment you "need" to purchase).Point of order:
since the differentials for the Ram Power wagon and the duramax are the same now, you might "acquire" a QD set from one to test it out, you know for posterity and all. I think what Ryan and all are trying to get at is you commented you didn't want to lose articulation in the rear where you needed it most, but also wanted to add a sway bar. with the QD concept you get both. You're not doing more than you need, or converting it into a mulch bed destroyer, just enough to get what you want out of it. (I wonder if I sound like you to your wife trying to sell her on some new piece of equipment you "need" to purchase).Point of order:
Axles do not disconnect, the saw bar does
and
Dodge has a solid front axle
Chevy has the IFS
Not exactly the same
And its the front sway bar which disconnects
Does the PW even have a rear sway bar???
Copy all
BTW, I make these clarifications for the benefit of everyone, Like, for example, that young guy reading this for the first time.
Moving on, doesn't the ram 2500 use a AAM 9.25" front diff? I was thinking the D60 front was replaced by the AAM 9.25 in a solid axle form some time ago, am I wrong?
FWIW, I was thinking disconnecting sway bar for the rear since you stated " 70%-80% of suspension articulation occurs in the rear", as well as JR's comment about the weight in the rear - a sway bar on the rear might make you feel more planted to the road when towing.I am ordering a Hellwig rear sway bar as soon as my military discount approval shows up at XPD Diesel.
Anywho -- carry on :)
Poor lonely SQ DNot lonely
Looking forward to the AARParts ordered!
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Poor lonely SQ D
I think there's a bike or two on it or in it...no wait under it...Poor lonely SQ DNot lonely
Has all sorts of things piled all over it! ;-))
Cat nest ontop of the fuel tankI think there's a bike or two on it or in it...no wait under it...Poor lonely SQ DNot lonely
Has all sorts of things piled all over it! ;-))
Do you want me to reach out to Dan at XDP?Sure, lets see what he says
Do you want me to reach out to Dan at XDP?Sure, lets see what he says
Tell him that his stuff is about to be featured on this web site
I think its out of his hands though, seems the manufacturer is out
OK, works for meDo you want me to reach out to Dan at XDP?Sure, lets see what he says
Tell him that his stuff is about to be featured on this web site
I think its out of his hands though, seems the manufacturer is out
I was not able to reach him, but I've found the same kit on backorder with other vendors and it does appear that Hellwig is out of stock currently. They are stateside so it's not like they're waiting for overseas shipments to land. I'd just wait it out, but continue to follow up.
Hey Ash!I thought some gator ate you a year or two back!Don, I just noticed you have the ball joints on top of the arms. I believe they go on the bottom (push on the arm vs push on the bolts).Holy Smokes!
It may affect the geometry a little, but Safety is a bigger thing!
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/media/pdfs/7054.pdf
WOW!! I just looked back on my install from about 50 years ago seems like, and I did the exact same thing Don. Had them mounted on top instead of on bottom...
Glad to see the black truck still putting in work. :likebutton:
Glad to have you around
Spread some news...What about that Dodge?? (Or Ram??)
I'd like to see what you've done to it lately
And what of you?
Well, there's a story there ^^^^^
Following, the f150 will need new more aggressive shoes before winter.
Following, the f150 will need new more aggressive shoes before winter.
Duratracs.
I have them on the jk, sidewalls are the weak link.....
I have them on the jk, sidewalls are the weak link.....
Never had a problem with mine, but I think you might do more things that could puncture the sidewalls.
The Porsche is my guess. Probably a convertible with the driver wearing a sun visorMan, you're as sharp as a finely honed log! ;-)
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I like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
I like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
Quit thinking like someone who came from the Air Force and get real! ;-)
Come on over and check out the bumpers on SquareD. That is what you need.
Air Force...
They must have invented the concept of washing your feet with your socks on!...
TaterI like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
Quit thinking like someone who came from the Air Force and get real! ;-)
Come on over and check out the bumpers on SquareD. That is what you need.
Air Force...
They must have invented the concept of washing your feet with your socks on!...
Don't worry Dave, Don's just still bent out of shape over the tire pros. I'm sure he's more than happy to show you how to fab an 800lb statue. :wink:
Don't you need the bumpers on Square D so you can strap it to the trailer when you take it to the shop? I don't need bumpers like that, mine runs.I like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
Quit thinking like someone who came from the Air Force and get real! ;-)
Come on over and check out the bumpers on SquareD. That is what you need.
Air Force...
They must have invented the concept of washing your feet with your socks on!...
Fixed it... :cool:I like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
Quit thinking like someone who came from the Air Force and get real! ;-)
Come on over and check out the bumpers on SquareD. That is what you need.
Air Force...
They must have invented the concept of washing your feet with your socks on!...
Don't worry Dave, Don's just still bent out of shape over the tire pros. I'm sure he's more than happy to show you how to fab an 8000lb statue. :wink:
Only thing you fixed is your future here!Fixed it... :cool:I like the rear bumper/tire rack. i need to redo the bumpers on my k5, go a little more stout than stock.You need a LOT more than stock
Quit thinking like someone who came from the Air Force and get real! ;-)
Come on over and check out the bumpers on SquareD. That is what you need.
Air Force...
They must have invented the concept of washing your feet with your socks on!...
Don't worry Dave, Don's just still bent out of shape over the tire pros. I'm sure he's more than happy to show you how to fab an 8000lb statue. :wink:
Another one bites the dust.You are with good company however. If Don spent as much time on the truck as firing people, it just might be running.Might have to fire another one...That Ken guy is acting up again
Only thing you fixed is your future here!
You're fired
The rear one should help contain the mess!I was running out of blankest!
I forget the newer seats fold up.
Mine fold down, I use a couple packing blankets and one blanket over it all.
Those are nice floor mats. I like the fact they double as a concealment garment, I could see your pistol before you put them on. But after, nothing. it was like magic. :tongue:Yea? Wow
I just spit my drink out of my nose
Ya know...Some day when you're hopelessly stuck in a mud hole, during a gunfight, and Square D just cruises on by like its on a sunday cruise...Well, on that day you're gonna regret saying those horrible things! ;-))
Looks good. How did it do on the first drive? Adverse noises? Squeaks?Dave, I just got back from a couple hour sortie running everywhere but taking the by ways and country roads
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I wonder what affect that will cause on tire usage, You were on the hunt for new rubber not long ago, unsuccessfully but hat might greatly aid in keeping rubber on the tire. Was this all with out a trailer?No trailer, just truck.
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Glad it is doing what it should. Those rear tires do not look like they will last the winter, if till then!Roger that
I had the km2 on a Tacoma and a 1500 Silverado and really enjoyed them. I have yet to buck up and put them on my Diesel truck but from the looks of my nitto ridge grapplers I will be having them a long time. Looking forward to how they hold up to the rear locker on your truck.Yea, regarding the locker and these tires.
Now I want gears or to lower my truck back to stock height
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The inside (drive) tire of a turn will always have the load, and the outside tire, with enough resistance, will disengage at the faster rate of speed and ratchet as you negotiate the turn. with the Toyos, you had more contact pattern and a smaller tire creating greater force on the outside tire allowing it to disengage quicker. if you start the turn, power under straight line, let off the gas then turn under coast, then apply power again, you might have a better time of it. I always thought you were getting off easy with the lack of complaints on the grizzly. brute strength and traction don't come free. I have a posi unit now for these things, but I feel it would wind up next to your hydraulic rams the way you operate;-)I had the km2 on a Tacoma and a 1500 Silverado and really enjoyed them. I have yet to buck up and put them on my Diesel truck but from the looks of my nitto ridge grapplers I will be having them a long time. Looking forward to how they hold up to the rear locker on your truck.Yea, regarding the locker and these tires.
Now I want gears or to lower my truck back to stock height
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They seem to have made the Grizzly locker growl more.
When pulling out onto a street, 90 degree turn, the locker remains engage hopping the rear tires. At this rate, I cannot see the tires lasting long at all.
Now, the Toyos never did that.
Could it be the difference between a 10 ply tire (Toyos) and these 8 ply load range D BFG's???
Or Perhaps tire pressure. I ran the Toyos at 55-60 psi. THe max pressure on these BFG's is 50 and I am at 46 as a start point. Could the lower pressure make for a bigger contact patch and the lower pressure just be putting more tire on the road?
I am having an occasional wobble in the steering wheel at 55-60 mph that smooths out. The mileage remains strong, and I definitely have enough power with those 4.56's chewin up KY roads.
Chief, I'm not sure if they make anything for chevys but check theretrofitsource.com. I ran a set of there stuff for years on my 4Runner. To the point our abuse of the rig caused it to fail after about 5 years. Called em up and asked about the fail and they said yea you have an early model, and your warranty just lapsed last year......but let's go ahead and get you a new set for something like 25% off. Great stuff really and amazing customer service. Sorry I'm just now thinking of this....OK, I'll take a look
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So are you actually going to post a photo of the light output? Yes I know a camera alters the light in an image but find a dark street and take a photo of high beam, low beam, all lights you have on at once. Also pull up to your garage door about twenty feet back and take a measurement of the beam cut off on low, How high is it from the ground ?Something is all screwed up
Post photo of view at garage door from inside cab please
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HEY BIG D, I'M GLAD YOU TRIED BEST ONE TIRE, I TOLD YOU, YOU WOULD BE TREATED FAIR. THEY ARE SOME REAL GOOD GUYS THERE. PS, DID YOU CALL DIESEL INJECTION YET ABOUT SQUARE D?Negative ghost rider on the call
Time for a bigger lift or a solid axle swap. Better put a Cummins motor in while your at it. Just a bit more than a oil change right?
I have said this along with others. Do yourself a favor, dump the eBay headlights, get a fresh pair of OEM housings & buy the kit below. I've had these on my Canyon diesel for over 18 months now & they just plain work. 18 months doesn't sound like a long time to develop an opinion, but whey you're talking about an HID kit it is...I just did exactly that
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/all-products/h11-morimoto-elite.html?carDisplay=2011+Chevrolet+Silverado&preselect=47309&preselect_restrict=1
Thank youI thought about recognizing you dave, as being the first to suggest the retrofit folks
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I don't believe I was the first. I think the previous time before you had a group of people saying you needed to spend a little $ to get qualityHeck man, what's wrong with you?
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Well, he is DOT so points from the boss is like a black X on your back........ :popcorn:
Dave, "daddy's favorites " usually get a blanket party....jus sayin
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Dave, "daddy's favorites " usually get a blanket party....jus sayinCome on up son. We can handle it. Just bring the red sled so I can see ya coming down the street
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Waiting for light update! As requested before. Long range dark road photo, twenty feet back from garage door or wallThose projector lights didn't put out enough light to be detectable, and they are gone. New ones just installed, but not adjusted...hang with me...
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So are to many lights mounted on the truck.No
as much as I hate the light bar look, given your desire to drive down the back roads and light everyting up I would look a a rigid curved 50 inch lightbarI have plenty of light Tex, when the stuff works.
I know the other set are gone. I still want photos of the set you are making.Waiting for light update! As requested before. Long range dark road photo, twenty feet back from garage door or wallThose projector lights didn't put out enough light to be detectable, and they are gone. New ones just installed, but not adjusted...hang with me...
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170928/9f0eeb4d8cb2c46c3c2b2bdb19c3c87a.png)
The quality projector lens acts like a led flashlight. Where it focus the light evenly vs the hot spots
When high beam is used that solid cut off line is removed allowing for a full amount of light. I have and will continue to preach the right light in correct housing will offer the best light. But a quality HID kit is the better option than cheap Chinese junk. As you have found
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as much as I hate the light bar look, given your desire to drive down the back roads and light everyting up I would look a a rigid curved 50 inch lightbar
So finished reading. Your scattered light is a product of the incorrect light bulb in the open housing. If you use high quality projectors with the "eye lid" that opens and shuts with your high low beam function. You will simply smooth out the "hot spots or flare" and allow the beam to shine smoothly. Let me see if I can find some internet examplesI installed the recommended Retrofit HID Morimoto kit. That should have been fine I would think
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So finished reading. Your scattered light is a product of the incorrect light bulb in the open housing. If you use high quality projectors with the "eye lid" that opens and shuts with your high low beam function. You will simply smooth out the "hot spots or flare" and allow the beam to shine smoothly. Let me see if I can find some internet examplesI installed the recommended Retrofit HID Morimoto kit. That should have been fine I would think
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I ordered new housings which I thought were OEM, however checking the Amazon order, they are ArtZone OEM quality Chinaman units:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UW09QJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The low beam H11 bulbs have three tabs which do not precisely match up to the openings in the bulb socket (Quality issue??) And I do not get a positive stop when turning the bulb to "seat it"
That may explain why I have a line of light going off in a strange direction, I don't know.
I do have the reflector like pattern and not the crisp break in light pattern of the shown projector housing
Hey, don't worry about itSo finished reading. Your scattered light is a product of the incorrect light bulb in the open housing. If you use high quality projectors with the "eye lid" that opens and shuts with your high low beam function. You will simply smooth out the "hot spots or flare" and allow the beam to shine smoothly. Let me see if I can find some internet examplesI installed the recommended Retrofit HID Morimoto kit. That should have been fine I would think
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I ordered new housings which I thought were OEM, however checking the Amazon order, they are ArtZone OEM quality Chinaman units:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UW09QJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The low beam H11 bulbs have three tabs which do not precisely match up to the openings in the bulb socket (Quality issue??) And I do not get a positive stop when turning the bulb to "seat it"
That may explain why I have a line of light going off in a strange direction, I don't know.
I do have the reflector like pattern and not the crisp break in light pattern of the shown projector housing
I just looked at the black housing you bought prior to the OEM set & they appear to be a projector style housing. I'd try the Morimoto kit on that housing, do just one side & do a side by side comparison to see if the light is more focused. I apologize if I led you down the wrong path & cost you money, but I still stand by the Morimoto brand.
Hey, don't worry about itSo finished reading. Your scattered light is a product of the incorrect light bulb in the open housing. If you use high quality projectors with the "eye lid" that opens and shuts with your high low beam function. You will simply smooth out the "hot spots or flare" and allow the beam to shine smoothly. Let me see if I can find some internet examplesI installed the recommended Retrofit HID Morimoto kit. That should have been fine I would think
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I ordered new housings which I thought were OEM, however checking the Amazon order, they are ArtZone OEM quality Chinaman units:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UW09QJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The low beam H11 bulbs have three tabs which do not precisely match up to the openings in the bulb socket (Quality issue??) And I do not get a positive stop when turning the bulb to "seat it"
That may explain why I have a line of light going off in a strange direction, I don't know.
I do have the reflector like pattern and not the crisp break in light pattern of the shown projector housing
I just looked at the black housing you bought prior to the OEM set & they appear to be a projector style housing. I'd try the Morimoto kit on that housing, do just one side & do a side by side comparison to see if the light is more focused. I apologize if I led you down the wrong path & cost you money, but I still stand by the Morimoto brand.
You were only trying to help
As for the current situation, I adjusted these new housings down to their lowest position and I started to see a coordinated/useable pattern, although it has hot spots and washes out areas. I brought the light up in increments and have something which I think I can use. Now the high beam lights are actually visible and not just filling in the area of the broadcast light. I'll give it a night of way back roads driving tonight/tomorrow and see how it is working out. I'd like to just be done with this.
Hope you find an answer Don...Hey Ash!
After months of fighting my HID lights and all the other junk I kept trying, I must say the smartest thing I did was go back to factory oem lights, oem assembly, and spend $600 or more on a Rigid 30" light bar that mounted directly to my front bumper. It's been almost 5 years now, and I still have and use that light bar. Never missed a beat...
One screw each side to pivot, and the smaller one to lock in the desired angle. Definite improvement here!Those mounts look similar to the Opt7 led lights I have. I’ve had pretty darn good luck with that brand.
How those tires doing? Sure look good on there.They work pretty well. I have a balance issue from 55-67 mph but with larger tires one has to learn to live with some things. They are grippy and I notice the locker wanting to engage and scrub them more than with the 35" Toyos. That will mean a reduced lifespan for any tires working on the rear, but that just points to more rotations.
I'd be interested to see a mean avg w/out towing after the air filter cleanout. With the added height you should see reduced rpms at hwy speeds with that gearing. Sounds like you're running low on Grizzly Grease, should we reach out to Ash?I've used that Grizzly grease on everything!
What charger set up did you go with?No charger yet, but a S-4XX over the stocker is probably where I'll land.
Also why is your tire light on, Didn’t you build a pvc tube and toss your sensors in that ?
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I though that was why his mpg was low, his tire sensor said he should be getting worse gas mileage and viola!!! ;)Speakin' of mileage, with this new tune which is in the mail somewhere, I hear I'll be seein' well over 50MPG!
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If you can find a friendly , I think a tech II can disable the systemGood to know. I thought disabling a "Safety system" was impossible.
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So what was the reasoning to go with motor ops? Dealt with em before? Friend sent ya? Just wanted to try something new? Best deal?
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My answer to question one is likely different than most, due to -40.Mine got down to 11.6 (wired as a system, not tested individually)
The first time it needs a boost is a freebie. Second time is new battery.
I've seen 5-7 years out of the delcos I've started with.
5 in my truck, 5 in HH6's car, and 7 and counting in the kiddos car.
It also depends on how many times they've been stone dead. (Sub 6-8 volts)
A good battery will only fall on its face three times give or take.
A poor one may not recover as many times.
If it runs completely down to 1-2 volts even a good one may not recover.
I agree with Sam. My first set lasted about 5 years. Went to costcos then (interstate) and now on the 3rd set. All under warranty they seem to last about 3 years.OK then, the speedo is free to any member who wants it
The speedo should fetch about $50.
I would say the tunes are good for $200 if someone can load them. They get locked to a truck sometime.
Yes sulphation is the death of the battery.I wonder if there is a way to really extend battery life.
The trickle should help, and I do know of folks getting to the 10 year point.
My first bank of batteries took a beating, and are in the back of my truck due for replacement.
They were new in 2012, fall time, so they made five years. I'm hoping with double capacity, and the large solar array the next set does better. But five years is not bad either on off grid setups IMO.
Excess heat likely playing into the quick failures there Ken.Exactly. The worst ones I've seen are the ones from wally world... seen a bunch top out around 9 months
Another battery enemy.
Ive been trying to research that very thing.I think I mentioned my friend who uses Air Force developed technology to "Shake" the plaque off the plates of aircraft batteries and even some big fork lift batteries. They are able to bring them back to life through the cleaning process, and fresh chemicals. The process takes time, is still expensive and therefore suitable only to aircraft batteries which cost as much as $5K each.
Well reviving dead ones anyhow.
There are some that claim some sketchy techniques work.
I had hoped to try them on this set from the cabin, but frankly I'm a little nervous of putting 120 pulsing DC to a six volt battery.
I will have another dead battery to try it on, but the cabin wasn't the time or place to experiment just yet.
Lithium batteries definitely hold charge better.
They do still suffer the cycling issues that lead acid do as well.
We were having forklift batteries refurbished 5-7 years ago. Unless this new method is somehow completely different & I doubt it is much different as you stated the same thing our “guy” used too then I would advise against wasting your money on those refurbished fork lift batteries. We never had one last much over 3-6 months.....I don't know enough about it to comment intelligently.
I suggest go full bore on a trans build, I tried EFI live and made a year before my trans started hitting limp mode on free way on rampsI can't speak for others, but the truck feels a lot stronger. Simply a dramatic change from before and I am not in the most aggressive tune yet.
I have the gorearend torque converter and from my knowledge it works ok, no experts in it, EFI live is amazing and I imagine with your gearing on your truck you have a whole different level of move unlike me and JR, big tires slow things down but you get the torque and the HP to change all of those.
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It’s amazing how the dmax comes alive with some good tuning... with power like you’re describing on 37’s you’re going to prob be looking at some Allison upgrades soon me thinksWell the mitigation procedure will likely to stick in the torque converter now, then get another year out of the trans, then stick that in as well.
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While it feels more torque and power to your seat I can assure you that the power added will chew up that trans, race truck or not Don a torque converter won’t save it. Those BA tires and added truck weight are a recipe for problemsI suggest go full bore on a trans build, I tried EFI live and made a year before my trans started hitting limp mode on free way on rampsI can't speak for others, but the truck feels a lot stronger. Simply a dramatic change from before and I am not in the most aggressive tune yet.
I have the gorearend torque converter and from my knowledge it works ok, no experts in it, EFI live is amazing and I imagine with your gearing on your truck you have a whole different level of move unlike me and JR, big tires slow things down but you get the torque and the HP to change all of those.
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The 37's did affect the performance some, but this was never intended to be a performance truck, just have the power to "make a get-away" in hard times with significant GWT tugging at performance. The truck feels lighter to be sure, and the trans tuning is pretty well done to compliment the new power and smoothness.
Get the speedo thing corrected and I'll be plenty happy with it.
Copy,While it feels more torque and power to your seat I can assure you that the power added will chew up that trans, race truck or not Don a torque converter won’t save it. Those BA tires and added truck weight are a recipe for problemsI suggest go full bore on a trans build, I tried EFI live and made a year before my trans started hitting limp mode on free way on rampsI can't speak for others, but the truck feels a lot stronger. Simply a dramatic change from before and I am not in the most aggressive tune yet.
I have the gorearend torque converter and from my knowledge it works ok, no experts in it, EFI live is amazing and I imagine with your gearing on your truck you have a whole different level of move unlike me and JR, big tires slow things down but you get the torque and the HP to change all of those.
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The 37's did affect the performance some, but this was never intended to be a performance truck, just have the power to "make a get-away" in hard times with significant GWT tugging at performance. The truck feels lighter to be sure, and the trans tuning is pretty well done to compliment the new power and smoothness.
Get the speedo thing corrected and I'll be plenty happy with it.
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Video from that go pro don bought a while backI took that back Dave...Crappy camera in my view
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Short update on C-Max
Had a chance to squirm around in some gooey clayish muddy wonderfulness today. Those tires never allowed for a stoppage in forward progress. The combination of this truck's wheelbase, its weight, the grizzly locker, 4WD, and these 37" tires make for a pretty robust and reliable package for one who may venture way off the beaten path. I'm very comfortable with taking this truck most places. I bypass the nasty spots...Those are for active duty piluts with a large support crew and not too much brain thinkage.
GET IT OUTTA THERE! That dust could cause all kinds of mayhem and stuff might start malfunctioning, parts trucks will start a parade to your door again and that poor green warrior will feel like a kid who goes off to college just to come home and find someone new moved into his room!I'm good
Question: When is everyone changing out their radiator fluid? I'm thinking I might be a candidate...I waited too long. Didn't get acidic, but it was dirty. 6-7 years.
OK then, we're getting a coolant fluid change!Question: When is everyone changing out their radiator fluid? I'm thinking I might be a candidate...I waited too long. Didn't get acidic, but it was dirty. 6-7 years.
I think they recommend 5 years, and some amount of miles.
Since then it's been replaced twice, due to the fact I had the rad hose off for one thing or another.
Being there is no drain bung on my 06, it goes into a pail inside a kiddie pool.
Well about 50/50, along with all the dirt and crud that drops in.
Based on that it gets new out in.
Question: When is everyone changing out their radiator fluid? I'm thinking I might be a candidate...Mine's been done 3 times in 5 years....a waterpump under warranty, a radiator because they poked a hole in it when doing said waterpump, and the last time my shroud went through the radiator. lol
Well looking at that expansion tank, it is no longer "Pristine" clean, so I think that with 6 years and 80K, I'll knock that outQuestion: When is everyone changing out their radiator fluid? I'm thinking I might be a candidate...Mine's been done 3 times in 5 years....a waterpump under warranty, a radiator because they poked a hole in it when doing said waterpump, and the last time my shroud went through the radiator. lol
Another fluid change,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Yeah, 5 years or 100k. Did mine a couple ago and doing the thermo's will top it off again.
Another fluid change,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Yeah, 5 years or 100k. Did mine a couple ago and doing the thermo's will top it off again.
your still putting those thermostats off.....along with the pump rub..........?
Hey, someone is on my side. I have been cleaning slowly (another project) but did find I have enough ridge shingles from my garage to finish this room.$60K JR...$60K
I like that mod Don. Hard to believe they provide no coolant drain on a 50K truck!
Hey, someone is on my side. I have been cleaning slowly (another project) but did find I have enough ridge shingles from my garage to finish this room.$60K JR...$60K
I like that mod Don. Hard to believe they provide no coolant drain on a 50K truck!
And that is why I'll drive it a very long time!
I'm getting ready to change out the dog hair in the back seat next.Hey, someone is on my side. I have been cleaning slowly (another project) but did find I have enough ridge shingles from my garage to finish this room.$60K JR...$60K
I like that mod Don. Hard to believe they provide no coolant drain on a 50K truck!
And that is why I'll drive it a very long time!
Thats if your buying GM, ferd wants 80K plus, and they have now claimed the title of having the first 100k truck... We too will be driving our oldies but goodies until they turn to dust!
If it was red, he might!Yup. Although the wife would make me get rid of my old trucks and besides I’m even more stupid than that. I’m about to install a pool. There goes my truck money.
Norm says procomps are good & I like coopers......All too soon, I'll be shelling out for something and going down this road once again.
D rated tires just aren't made to handle a 10k lb+ truck Don.On the tires: Good news!
They would probably work great on Shawn's Jeep
tho.
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I think don is getting tired of wrenching on things. I completely understand. I am to the point in my day where all I do is put out fires at work and fix other peoples stuff. Last thing I want to do is fix my own problems and stuff. Plus wrenching in the cold sucks!!What he said ^^^^
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...Can it be that the severe cold caused some seal or hose to contract enough to initiate a leak, but sealed back up with the application of heat?...That kind of stuff happened to our fertilizer and dump trucks all the time. Retightening hose clamps after they were warm seemed to help. It only happened in extreme cold though and on those rigs it was acceptable since we didn’t run them much in those temps.
Yeah hose connections leak during winter, the rubber shrinks. That connection doesn't have a clamp tho, correct? Just a plastic ring? Might have disturbed it when you installed the drain...Lower radiator hose with the cast in "T"
Funny, -7*.
I went deer hunting today and was sweating my rear off by 10:00 in just a t-shirt
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Don, that $200 piece of junk will do that.
It's a terrible design, I have one new in box of truck.
I think that is part of the $200 house that is a bear to change!
So two days ago you were done with them and wanted to return to Toyo tires. What’s the verdict ? You rotated them was all?
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D rated tires just aren't made to handle a 10k lb+ truck Don.On the tires: Good news!
They would probably work great on Shawn's Jeep
tho.
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I must have had one bad one, and it must have been the right rear.
Reason, that is the tire that is currently hanging on the spare carrier and my truck drives completely normally. Now I am not saying that the issue may not reappear, but I am saying that I drove the truck down to the farm 50+ miles pulling the trailer with the outhouse strapped to it (What #3,500 ish??) and back at 45-60MPH and encountered no vibration at all. I had no steering wheel shimmy and with regard to the steering, it was greatly improved. Not much crown on these narrow country roads to speak of and for 75% of the distance there you cannot keep the steering wheel still less than 2 seconds. No exaggeration, the roads are literally constant turns most of the way there! Point with all that being that there is no way to check to see if it wanders following the crown just yet.
If I could keep this ride, these tires would do their job and get me through another year and then I'd upgrade to the "E" rated tires which hopefully, then, I could easily pay for.
Still no leak from the lower rad hose?Dave,
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Is that where sq d used to reside? Wondering if they just swapped places and the old girl was put out to pasture (aka mulch bed)?SquareD is still over at the repair shop. I am awaiting a sizeable check to show up...If it does, I'll let them dig back into the thing and fix what they found. If it doesn't in a month, then I'll bring it home.
Looking good. Guess the knee is better?It is slowly healing. I can motor around now
I think these are my next investment, keep the water and salt from going in places it doesn’t need to. Might help you out
https://www.cjponyparts.com/general-motors-wheelhouse-liner-rear-pair-chevrolet-silverado-2016-2018/p/84154470/
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Did some searching last night - ruggedliner seems to be the way to go - wwc99 for the classic 01-07 trucks.
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glad your knee is getting better Don.Its as stiff as a pine board, but I can move about slowly...Pretty much all I need, as before the operation, I was moving about slowly! ;-))
I'm hanging a bit of hardie today. Gotta get the outside wrapped up
Oh boy do I know that feeling. Dr said my knee is sprang and I can agree as it is stiff. Weight on it is not issue. However the stabbing pain that goes down the leg is killing me, and really just when I lay down so sleep is suffering big time right now.Hate that!
Don. Worry about something else. Plenty of 500,000 mile LMLs out there. The exploding CP4 is overhyped
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And running a lift pump besides to help it out I think right? I don't think the LML cp4 is like the LB7 injectors where you know they are going to go it is just a matter of time and miles before they do. Remember when reading on those forums the small percentage of people posting about those types of problems can be a lot louder then the majority of people that aren't having any issues and never have a need to post. The only thing that had me thinking about swapping to a cp3 when I had my LML was that a cp4 failure could take out stuff down line and cost a whole heck of a lot more to fix then just the swap.That is a large part of it for me as well
And running a lift pump besides to help it out I think right? I don't think the LML cp4 is like the LB7 injectors where you know they are going to go it is just a matter of time and miles before they do. Remember when reading on those forums the small percentage of people posting about those types of problems can be a lot louder then the majority of people that aren't having any issues and never have a need to post. The only thing that had me thinking about swapping to a cp3 when I had my LML was that a cp4 failure could take out stuff down line and cost a whole heck of a lot more to fix then just the swap.That is a large part of it for me as well
The loss of the CP4.2 means the loss of the injectors, a massive removal and cleaning of the entire fuel system. The return line pushing contaminated fuel back into the tank would call for a removal and cleaning of that, as well as the lines and perhaps of the lift pump as well.
I think the amount of labor to make all that right, along with the prospect of possibly a follow on failure due to a missed metal shard impinging a replacement injector begins to speak of a nightmarish scenario of thousands of wasted dollars.
Now about the power, and how I use it.
I purposely use lower settings because I know of the limits of the Allison.
In a perfect world of no financial constraints, I would replace the Ally and converter with something designed to hold 800 HP. I would use a better primary turbo and perhaps a low pressure turbo as well, and a modified CP# capable of supporting a more agressive tune. I would likely install head studs and/or other pieces of insurance to keep it all safe and secure
Why you ask?
I have long wanted to add a bit more structure to the front end to push away trees (or cars) that I seem to be encountering. I wold like to upgrade to a 16.5K winch, and add a 10K winch to the back end. I'd like to add a couple skip plates and a roof rack and one or two well designed roll bar loops to the exterior as a part of that roof rack.
Adding that extra 1500 lbs or more would slow the truck down a lot. 8700 (current weight) + 1,500 = 10,200 which would need a bunch more HP just to be able to run around (then) like it does now.
And that is why I'd like to add more HP/torque.
You already have the bumpers, upgrading winches adds little weight if any.I have a skinny little 9K winch on the front
Roof rack, a hundred or so until you load it up Don style,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Sure glade I have the LBZ, but I understand wanting the pump and ally upgrade.
You already have the bumpers, upgrading winches adds little weight if any.I have a skinny little 9K winch on the front
Roof rack, a hundred or so until you load it up Don style,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Sure glade I have the LBZ, but I understand wanting the pump and ally upgrade.
A 16.5 will add from 100 to maybe 120 more there
Push bar uprights with two cross bars and wings, maybe 80
Roof rack is #75 (I have built over a half dozen...) and additional reinforcing, maybe #20 more
Two 2" X .120 wall hoops is an easy 80-100
Placing some steel under the front back to the crossmenber, then under the trans, Xfer case and fuel tank is #200
A 10 K winch in the rear bumper is #75
Then a case of water is what, #20???
An easy #2,000-#3000 pounds That is when you consider now the entire chassis will be one solid cube of wet mud!
Boneheads...
Put the 9k in the back. Does a 16k really weigh that much more, 100#?
I understand the skids and front end, got to protect stuff. What about the alum drive shaft? Just a little skuff and its gone!
Why not just get a 12k for the front and double line if needed? And if weight is an issue, just go synthetic line? You could be at the same weight then with a 12k.
Shawn, this things need under armor. Even just a plate from the trans to the tcase would be a huge improvement.
There is an idea, if the unimog had more speed I would say get one of those or a oshkos type truck start with a already bulletproof frame
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Woa woa woa!! Tell me moreThere is an idea, if the unimog had more speed I would say get one of those or a oshkos type truck start with a already bulletproof frame
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Convert the axles in the unimog to a 9” center section, get any ratio you want. Buddy of mine does the conversions.
If you search unimog axle conversions guys have been doing them for some time on the 404 & 416 portal axles. The problem with them in stock configuration is obviously the axle gear ratio. Build a center nine chunk and have double ended shafts built and you can then bolt the outer’s onto that nine axle housing. Off road guys love the ground clearance those portal axles have. I used to cut the raw components for WEPS off-road and I even sold his product for awhile. Andy guy who ran it was a former Navy Sea Bee so he has some machining experience.....I’ll look into it. I had researched unimogs extensively about 8 years ago and was going to drop serious coin on a frame off doka rebuild but the axles kept me from doing it. At that time all I found was custom gears for the portal axles but that option seemed to be limited and the top speed was still too low. I’d want a comfortable cruise rpm at 70 even if it meant modifications to the 6 banger diesel to get the power.
If you search unimog axle conversions guys have been doing them for some time on the 404 & 416 portal axles. The problem with them in stock configuration is obviously the axle gear ratio. Build a center nine chunk and have double ended shafts built and you can then bolt the outer’s onto that nine axle housing. Off road guys love the ground clearance those portal axles have. I used to cut the raw components for WEPS off-road and I even sold his product for awhile. Andy guy who ran it was a former Navy Sea Bee so he has some machining experience.....I’ll look into it. I had researched unimogs extensively about 8 years ago and was going to drop serious coin on a frame off doka rebuild but the axles kept me from doing it. At that time all I found was custom gears for the portal axles but that option seemed to be limited and the top speed was still too low. I’d want a comfortable cruise rpm at 70 even if it meant modifications to the 6 banger diesel to get the power.
Dave..... I’m not as good as I once was but I’m as good once as I ever was ;-)
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what kind of report can you give us on that topper you put on there? we say you have it installed, but you have never given us any sort of feedback/update on it.....does it leak, how do you have it outfitted, would you get one like that again, etc?Ya, sure
I am not sure we have ever seen a photo of the inside of that topper Don
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I am not sure we have ever seen a photo of the inside of that topper DonIts classified Dave
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That looks like crap!It does, some, let's see how it sits and holds onto things
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Naw, I left the coon out in the pasture for the buzzards!I am not sure we have ever seen a photo of the inside of that topper Don
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Probably hiding bodies in there....
Seat covers look familiar, except mine were so tight I could barely get them on. is that the h/duty carhart style fabric?Its some kind of very heavy nylon
Replace the cp4. Got rid of my truck before it failed, but I was also running a cp3 along with the cp4. But, we had two more lml's in our fleet. Both lost the cp4. These were factory lml one ton reg cab 4wd trucks. One failed at about 60k miles. Other made it to around the 130k mark. Friend of mine just had insurance company TOTAL his duramax. Reg cab lml one ton 4wd. Factory, and not a daily driver. Used it for hauling his tractor around and hauling hay on weekends. At 160k his cp4 went out and destroyed everything. $15k in damage. Like you said, when it goes, kiss everything fuel related from the injectors to the fuel tank good bye.Good to know Ash!
By the way Don, the local shop that replaced both of the one tons we had in our fleet, they swapped the cp4's out without removing the body. All done from overhead. Does require removal of the turbo, but all the def junk has already been removed on your truck, so you have half the battle won...
I know there are a few lml's out there that haven't had an issue yet, but I know 90% more that have had them go out than the ones that are still factory...
May as well add the tranny or just the converter too.Ya, just like that, another $5K-$6K
You can get with Mike L and he will send you a built trans and you send back the core. Honestly Don give him a call and Inglewood transmission and hear what he has to say.
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If we paint it orange he can for sure.
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You can get with Mike L and he will send you a built trans and you send back the core. Honestly Don give him a call and Inglewood transmission and hear what he has to say.Dave,
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I like the plan. Whats another 10k.A lot of Money!
OK, I did my homeworkAll sounds like an excuse to grenade that transmission me me.
In the offering will be a modified Fleece CP3 pump kit that replaces the factory junk and eliminates a lot of junk
Since the Turbo will be out, although not completely necessary, mine would be just to pull it down to check things out.
For that reason I'm going to do a bigger single turbo as well. The one I picked has a separate pedestal which will make replacing the thing a relative breeze. Speaking to the turbo people, my setup will produce somewhere between 600-625HP with the actual components I have and possibly numbers north of that since I have manifolds and larger up-pipes.
The thing I will see that is written between the lines is way mo better driveability. THis new turbo will flash up much faster. hey said it builds boost more than twice as quickly and then builds to around 45 psi. Of course, I will not be able to use those numbers unless I hire a trash collection company to police up transmission parts I would be leaving.
But like I said in the autumn, following this will be a new trans and converter built to around the 800 HP standard which should get this truck done forever.
I'll post up details of the purchase in a wee bit after I finalize and sort everything out.
I had my tunes redone by Nate over at revco. My tunes from starlite did ok but night and day. But I am no stranger to the right peddle and never changing from my big tune. So. Nate did me a solid and tried some tuning to fix a issue. Good dude def worth a phone callI really can't work with US based guys because of the truck being deleted...
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What does being deleted have to do with it Don? I run PPEI on my LML and they are next door in LA.Legalities...
sounds to me like LML Silverado Duramax C-Max Build Thread Part 4 is about to be locked and LML Silverado Duramax C-Max Build Thread Part 5 is about to commence?!Give the man a C-Gar
What does being deleted have to do with it Don? I run PPEI on my LML and they are next door in LA.Legalities...
It is illegal for US based tuners to provide anything that defeats emissions equipment I believe...
They also have DOT ride with CHP here and will do a visual. If they see something, you get towed and can't get it until you fix it.
Don, I don’t particularly have a favorite tuner at this point and it doesn’t affect me really who ya go with.Copy all Dave
As for legality of the tune and so forth. What does it matter you have already broke he law by removing those parts. With that in mind don’t you live in the Tuck ? Who is gonna come check what tuning, emissions equip, you have on your truck any way.
I would poke the bear and tell ya to buy American lol
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Looks good. I expected some shelving inside the topper, Let’s see some nighttime shots of those new found back up lightsOK, just as soon as I get them wired in, which may be as early as today
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I have similar lights in the bumper of the bus. Very effective. Once you use them you’ll want them on everything. Even the GJ;-))
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Well, with hearing our current admin is actually cutting back on some things we maybe safe for as long as these trucks last.JR,
Don, need to get the contact info form you for them. Not happy with what I have and maybe they can do a VW so it shows OK when checked, but runs the way I want otherwise.
You’re going to like the new lights there chief.Been busy...haven't wired them up yet
Look like what I and a few others have.
Well, with hearing our current admin is actually cutting back on some things we maybe safe for as long as these trucks last.JR,
Don, need to get the contact info form you for them. Not happy with what I have and maybe they can do a VW so it shows OK when checked, but runs the way I want otherwise.
Talk to Tristen or Steve, or, just about anyone there
http://motorops.ca/
I use the DSP5 with multiple tunes, but am always running around in tune 3, "Light towing"Well, with hearing our current admin is actually cutting back on some things we maybe safe for as long as these trucks last.JR,
Don, need to get the contact info form you for them. Not happy with what I have and maybe they can do a VW so it shows OK when checked, but runs the way I want otherwise.
Talk to Tristen or Steve, or, just about anyone there
http://motorops.ca/
Already found the sight, but thanks. Little rich for my blood at the moment with my build, but I'll get there.
Your still running DSP5 or just a straight tune?