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Oops I posted pics in the wrong thread. Sorry Boss moving now.
Don, don't you have a blasting cabinet? Might have saved some time.You would think with the thousands if millions of these we would have a few options for a traction device besides just the $$$ air locker.Great work, nice to just swap vs pull down with the truck down.
Well, don't use an impact!Whats the drive side look like?
Dave, in places you can’t get a blind hole puller into you can pack the area behind the bearing with grease then drive a pin the size of the hole in center of bearing thru it. The grease is pushed by pin and drives bearing out towards you Side adjusters are used to move ring gear towards or away from pinion gear. You screw then in or out and both sides need to be moved same amount after bearing preload has been set in order to maintain that preload
I have two questions 1. What do you mean “ removed using the hydraulic grease method” ? I am not sure what that is or how to use it. You pump the cavity full of grease, then find a suitable bolt, and tape it up until if fits the bore snuggly. Align it over the opening and smash it with a hammer. The pressurized grease will shove the pressed in bearing right out...easy-peasy2. Side adjusters? I have never seen a front differential on one of these open nor do I plan on doing it, I’ll just stay in my lane for that kind of thing and let someone who knows handle it. But. What is a side adjuster? Just like a 14 bolt FF axle has the screw type adjusters on the side to move the pinion in/out, this 9.25 AAM axle does as well. You can see me holding them in my hand as I removed them to rebuild with new bearings/race/seals as necessary. They take a strange tool to move, and that is why I just built my own.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pinion preload is without seal also.Tate, on preload for the carrier bearings, I don't see that. So after you have your good pattern and backlash, how much do you tighten the side adjuster?
this is a 2 step gear and needs to be a tighter backlash, .005-.007 is what it actually calls for. I didn't have my spec sheet last night, sorry Don. you need to add .007-.010 pin depth shim thickness; you're way shallow on this pattern. speaking of pattern, a 2 step gear just needs to be in the middle of the tooth, top to bottom of the lands/grooves. heel to toe doesn't matter so much, and your classic football pattern won't show up here; you might get a "pink eraser" trapezoid kinda looking deal, sometimes at a 45* from heel to toe, but as long as it's centered height wise, your fine. here are the specsPreload 15-22 lb/in of rotating drag w/o carrier installedbacklash .005-.007, yes really that tightrecommended pinion depth starting point .032 which you're under, but factory is not the same ratio, so it's normal to have to adjust. you're on the right path, just get some more shim in there, and use an electric drill to spin the gear, no impact when checking pattern!backlash measured at the yoke should be devided by 2, so you're shooting for 0.010-.014, you weren't far off the 1st try sir. go get after it now, i'll wait. :-)
from what I can see, you're good to run Don. Ship it!