Post by: Bear9350 on March 01, 2019, 08:35:48 AM
I picked the majority of the steel up for the front and rear bumpers last week. I did all the modeling on the computer, with a little back and forth with Don we got the designs squared away.
Front Bumper: There is a 5" and 4" round lights facing forward and 3-1/2" light facing toward the side. Winch will be mounted in the center with a 2" receiver beneath it. Normally I build everything from 7 gauge (about 3/16") but Don asked me to try and put it on a diet. Most of the center section and mounting brackets are still 7 gauge, but I changed some of the sell up to 10 gauge.
(https://i.imgur.com/SPhdLLl.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/mLPm170.png)
Rear Bumper: Nothing real special on the rear bumper itself. I built it for a set of 4" backup lights. The tire carrier will be from 2"x4" rectangle tube with a bin for the can's Don wants to carry. I've got an oversized 37" tire for a space claim in the model here.
(https://i.imgur.com/CQZd1iZ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/hhdbNj6.png)
The original plan was for me to do the design work, send some files over to Don and he would get the parts laser cut local. Then we changed the plan up and Don asked me to do the fabrication also and ship the bumpers to him. We finalized some design aspects and I started ordering material last week.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 01, 2019, 08:40:10 AM
This is how I get the steel in. Usually each bumper I send in is a unique file. That steel will be cut out and stacked on a pallet. Normally they stack multiple bumpers on a pallet with a layer of cardboard between them. I got an extra pallet today because of the change in material sizes.
(https://i.imgur.com/6UxyUAd.jpg)
And here is the vast majority of the steel that is going to make up the front and rear bumpers. There will be some tubing added to this pile at a latter date.
(https://i.imgur.com/TvYWtZL.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 01, 2019, 08:57:07 AM
Here is where I start with the rear bumper.
(https://i.imgur.com/meiTJgL.jpg)
I start out by building the "step section" up and placing the top on. Here you can see where the pieces are notched and tabbed to fit together.
(https://i.imgur.com/mcP41Xl.jpg)
I actually missed a few notches on the top section here. Normally there would be a few more notches coming through the top to locate the top piece better. Missing stuff like that is always one of my worries when doing one-off stuff like this. So I just cut the tabs off the vertical pieces and located the top on what I had.
(https://i.imgur.com/GtEn2gQ.jpg)
Then I flip it over and tack in the rest of the framing pieces. I do these right away to give it some structure so it doesn't deform as badly when welding.
(https://i.imgur.com/TdoXoKj.jpg)
Again you can see that this pieces are notched so they fit together and are located perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/8bGljK5.jpg)
I could already tell that thinner piece of 10 gauge on top was starting to bow more than usual so I tacked a piece of angle to the top to try and help keep it straight. I will remove this after the bumper shell is welded and cooled down.
(https://i.imgur.com/DLfqFKw.jpg)
Then I just start filling in pieces. On a rear bumper I start at the center and work my way down and out. Because everything is laser cut I just place everything line on line and tack in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/fWyIL4d.jpg)
And just keep working my way along until all the pieces are used up.
(https://i.imgur.com/4zUiOMc.jpg)
Here you can see how the panels also lay on the mounting brackets previously tacked in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/V4qX6Hm.jpg)
And the entire shell of the bumper tacked together. You will notice a few holes in the bumper. These will be used to locate the recovery tabs and light mounting brackets later.
(https://i.imgur.com/UPhFBzs.jpg)
I also tucked the license plate light mount in place. This gets welded in at an angle and (2) led lights will fit into these 3/4" holes that will illuminate the license plate.
(https://i.imgur.com/2VKh74H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YnfvCfs.jpg)
Next step here will be welding the bumper solid. Then a bunch of grinding to clean it up before I start working on all of Don's extras.
Post by: cruizng on March 01, 2019, 09:17:10 AM
Next step here will be welding the bumper solid. Then a bunch of grinding to clean it up before I start working on all of Don's extras.
Hmmm Don, extra's.... How did that happen.. Bumpers look great! :beercheers:
Post by: Flyin6 on March 01, 2019, 09:33:10 AM
Post by: dave945 on March 01, 2019, 09:42:12 AM
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Post by: KensAuto on March 01, 2019, 11:07:03 AM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 01, 2019, 02:48:05 PM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 01, 2019, 11:16:22 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/eeLwX5F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VShh6dQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BbN7skR.jpg)
After welding the outside shell up I move to the inside to weld all the frame pieces. I normally don't weld the inside seams but I do like to put a plug weld in all the corners and at the end of a seam.
(https://i.imgur.com/TQHW3Zh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cki3Eu5.jpg)
Then I tacked up the receiver mounting bracket. On the stock bumper there is an internal support that the receiver bolts up into. This is an important piece to support the tongue weight for the factory receiver. A lot of the heavier aftermarket units don't need this but the stock unit definitely does. You can ask one of my customers who forgot to intall those bolts what happens if you forget. Hint: you don't make it out of the drive way with your loaded car trailer before the receiver is dragging on the ground. This piece gets welded up to the underside of the bumper step after welding the hidden nuts in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/vqLy1Ww.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j98oyot.jpg)
This is all the progress for the rear bumper tonight. Hopefully should be able to do some grinding on it tomorrow.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 01, 2019, 11:25:42 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/lmTay9u.jpg)
I start by attaching the frame pieces to the left and right side center section. I place all the framing pieces together to hold the parts square and in place. Then I tack those 2 pieces to the center plate.
(https://i.imgur.com/5pHaxQN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oQeIcsu.jpg)
Next I tack the top plate in place. This piece is also notched and tabbed and helps to pull everything in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/nR1LOAe.jpg)
After that I start filling in the other panels. Here is the last of the 7 gauge pieces.
(https://i.imgur.com/hv3dVwv.jpg)
These to upper panels were cut from 10 gauge as will be the rest of the panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/NiWvvlN.jpg)
Those slots on the side will be to locate the upright for the grille guard. They also allow the upright to pass through the bumper and be welded directly to the frame/ mounting bracket that will be bolted to the truck.
(https://i.imgur.com/po1tdCJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n85ffiK.jpg)
And that concluded tonight's activities in the shop. Next up will be checking the fit of the winch mounting brackets before welding the center section up. Should get that done tomorrow as well as tacking together the wing sections and welding the entire front bumper solid.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 02, 2019, 07:48:20 AM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 02, 2019, 08:41:03 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 02, 2019, 10:16:37 AM
We may be seeing the departure point where his business skyrockets due to the exposure and subsequent spreading of the word. May it be so, and hopefully bring him the success he has earned.
Well done
(Even though it's not done)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 04, 2019, 09:28:51 AM
First tool I use is the computer and CAD programs. I run CREO, which use to be Pro-E. It is similar to some more of the more commonly known CAD programs like Solid Works. It isn't as user friendly but a bit more powerful in my opinion. It is what I first started using and learned and I also use CREO at work.
I run a Lincoln Power Mig 255 welder. I go through enough gas that I lease a bigger tank from the local Air Gas. I also have a smaller tank that I own. I keep that one full so I can swap it out should I run out. Most welding shops usually aren't open on the weekends and I get most of my work done on the weekends so I like to keep a spare around. I swapped the factory whip out for a Tregaskiss Tough Gun whip a couple years back. I also run .045" wire for most jobs. I keep a 44lb spool of wire at all times also.
(https://i.imgur.com/1NYfRdt.jpg)
I also have a Hypotherm Powermax 30 plasma torch. If I have a standard job I don't need this at all. On one off stuff like Don's I try and design everything in CAD but something can be missed and then the torch comes. This unit is rated for 3/8" steel but I have successfully cut 1/2" taking it slow. This unit can run on 110 or 220. When in the shop I run it on 220.
(https://i.imgur.com/3BpeVdQ.jpg)
I've got 3 main grinders.
The big 7"/9" that I do the majority of the cleanup work with and (2) smaller 4-1/2" grinders. I keep the abrasive disk on the one grinder for lighter clean up work etc. I swap between a cut-off wheel and hard grinding disk on the other depending on what I am doing. Someday I will pick up a 3rd one so I can have a dedicated grinder with a cut-off wheel and one with a hard grinding disk. The big grinder in this pic has a 9" hard disk. That is what I use to get the rough grinding done. The bigger the wheel is the faster it will grind down. I usually run that disk until it is about 4"-5". Then I swap for a new one and use the used up one on the 4-1/2" grinder for smaller jobs. I can get about 2 rear and 2 front bumpers grinded down per 9" hard disk.
(https://i.imgur.com/ipdZt74.jpg)
After the rough grind through this fiberglass backing pad set up on with a 9" abrasive disk. This will clean the bumper up nice and blend all the corners in. You can pull some material off real quick when these disks are fresh, but once they start to where out they are much less effective. I usually use 1 or sometimes 2 per bumper. You have to be a little careful when running these. If you catch an edge you can start to tear one up and then it kind of blows up on you.
(https://i.imgur.com/6eYStzg.jpg)
Those are my main tools. I would like a few others but I am limited on floor space. I basically work out of the third stall of my garage. I have the last stall walled off from the other 2 to keep the mess I create just in my area.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 04, 2019, 09:36:17 AM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 04, 2019, 10:14:57 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on March 05, 2019, 10:39:52 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/KakeX6h.jpg)
Then started cutting out the center section for the winch. Got a little figuring to do in CAD to determine what exactly I need to put back in where.
(https://i.imgur.com/EQ2Zyan.jpg)
Post by: wyorunner on March 05, 2019, 11:20:14 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 06, 2019, 12:16:48 AM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 06, 2019, 07:39:47 AM
Sure looks good for having a woops!! Would love to have some of your work on our 74.... maybe later this year.
Thanks, it's rare that I get through one-off like this without some type of whoops. No matter how much planning I do in 3-D there always seems to be something I miss. This was a rather big miss, and it took a while to figure out how to move forward, but I think the solution will turn out very clean.
When the time comes I would be glad to try and help out on your 74. I've never done anything like that, but those older vehicles are easier to work with.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 06, 2019, 07:42:12 AM
Brian don’t throw that design away. May have to get that design for my LB7
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There is actually a quite a bit different from the 03. There was a substantial frame change and obviously some styling changes. But I could definitely transfer some ideas to an 03 bumper.
Post by: Nate on March 06, 2019, 08:38:58 AM
would it make things easier if you made some sort of a moveable jig?
for example: start with your frame mounts and move upwards and outwards from there.....to help keep the straightness and to prevent shrinkage?
Post by: Bear9350 on March 06, 2019, 09:04:33 AM
so let me ask this question.
would it make things easier if you made some sort of a moveable jig?
for example: start with your frame mounts and move upwards and outwards from there.....to help keep the straightness and to prevent shrinkage?
With the inherent strength in the shape of the front bumper I get very little movement. I go get a little bit of movement in the rear bumpers, but it is predictable and doesn't cause and issues with fit and isn't noticeable unless you are really looking hard and comparing truck lines to that of the bumper. I was a little concerned that thinning up the front would cause an issue. For that reason I modified the front mounting brackets to that they bolt on to the bumper and onto the truck. Usually I weld the frame mounting bracket directly to the bumper on most models and there is virtually no adjustability. I am going to ask Don to weld the mounting brackets in place after he gets the bumper on and adjusted to his liking.
I've explored some fixturing previously. A couple reasons I never went done that path:
- the way I have everything in CAD and laser cut makes for a near perfect fit. Using my methods gives me very predicable results when I tack the bumper together. I use to measure the span form left to right fender edge to make sure everything was tracking well. After tacking I would be +/- 1/8" over about 78" of width. That is incredibly good. That measurement barely changes after welding. I don't measure any more, unless I feel something is off or for some reason I am fighting to tack one together.
- I would need a unique fixture for each model. I don't have the space to store that much tooling, nor do I want to carry that much overhead.
- When I am tacking and welding them up I can easily flip, turn and position the bumper to make it easier to work on.
- I like the ability to be extremely flexible in what I can do. A fixture would be another thing I need to worry about when I start talking to a "Don" and they want me to change everything for them.
Post by: stlaser on March 06, 2019, 09:35:45 AM
Post by: EL TATE on March 06, 2019, 10:41:13 AM
Nate, what he’s saying ^^^^^ is it’s not your pecker and shrinkage isn’t an issue! :popcorn::evil:hahaahahhaaahahahhahaa!
Post by: Flyin6 on March 06, 2019, 12:45:50 PM
Post by: Nate on March 06, 2019, 01:44:58 PM
Post by: stlaser on March 06, 2019, 02:07:05 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 06, 2019, 03:18:13 PM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 06, 2019, 04:05:06 PM
Mine is a 2001 2500HD LB7
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That's right. For some reason I thought it was a 2003. No matter, still different than Don's 2500 non-HD.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 06, 2019, 06:45:50 PM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 06, 2019, 08:03:40 PM
Post by: Bear9350 on March 07, 2019, 09:11:59 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/onit8d7.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 08, 2019, 08:20:55 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/8aqheK7.jpg)
Then wrapped the uprights with the 1.5" wide strip.
(https://i.imgur.com/L6uAUDE.jpg)
Post by: Flyin6 on March 08, 2019, 09:36:24 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on March 12, 2019, 08:59:32 AM
I have the rear bumper anchored to the weld table here so I can swing the arm open and closed. It swings smoothly. There are a few minor changes I would have made to the ruff stuff spindle but it will still work great.
(https://i.imgur.com/g8FKdZD.jpg)
Post by: Flyin6 on March 12, 2019, 10:25:23 AM
Looks to be level...
The thing looks brutal strong.
Hope it doesn't need to be...Yikes!
Post by: Bear9350 on March 12, 2019, 11:25:00 AM
Brian, is there a 10 degree tilt in the spare tire carrier?
Looks to be level...
The thing looks brutal strong.
Hope it doesn't need to be...Yikes!
There will be a 2" tube inserted into that receiver for adjustability. The angle will be cut into that piece.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 12, 2019, 01:51:08 PM
ExcellentBrian, is there a 10 degree tilt in the spare tire carrier?
Looks to be level...
The thing looks brutal strong.
Hope it doesn't need to be...Yikes!
There will be a 2" tube inserted into that receiver for adjustability. The angle will be cut into that piece.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 13, 2019, 07:42:58 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/s4cbr9E.jpg)
Then I mocked up the secondary pin latch. There will be a second pin like this on the pivot side to hold the arm open also. I still need to locate the plate that will be welded onto the tower for this pin to drop into to hold the arm closed.
(https://i.imgur.com/8uVrxTa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EcT7VLB.jpg)
Then spent some time to finish up the bin that will be welded onto the arm to carry the fuel and water cans. Need to do a little more clean up work on the arm and bin before the two are mated together. No pic of that today.
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 13, 2019, 07:51:07 AM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 15, 2019, 11:37:04 PM
The center sections got a couple slices on the back side and bent a few more degrees to make them sit a little more proud of the bumper. The side pieces needed to get completely cut up, rotated, shortened, lengthened and welded back together. These are all 2" 11 gauge welded tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/ViMla8R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iDFkN32.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vcQLUQa.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 15, 2019, 11:42:44 PM
This is where the tube should pass through the bumper.
(https://i.imgur.com/WR4Zvt2.jpg)
Template for marking the hole location.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ot6de7P.jpg)
Hole torched, cleaned up and sized.
(https://i.imgur.com/WHFzr0A.jpg)
Tube test fit in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/jVsX0DY.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 15, 2019, 11:49:43 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/aS5Pd2E.jpg)
I had to do a little trimming on the guard pieces to get the fit just right. Over all everything came together and fit as planned. I can generally get the bumper leveled up on the table and then if I have vertical and horizontal pieces on the tubing use those to help set the tubing in position.
(https://i.imgur.com/yLlJ6Uh.jpg)
First I tacked the sides and top center in place. Checked for the overall fit and look and welded those in solid. Where the tubing pierces through the bumper I weld on both the front and the rear a much as I can access.
(https://i.imgur.com/WTsJfvY.jpg)
Then set the lower center piece in place and welded it solid also.
(https://i.imgur.com/rErJKQW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RkqjtRx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lqmE2zW.jpg)
And that was it for tonight. Off on a mini trip with the wife this weekend so will be planning on finishing up the last few details on the front early next week. Then finishing up the rear and swing arm.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 16, 2019, 05:10:21 AM
Wondering what the builder has to say about the usefulness of the tubes?
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 16, 2019, 12:08:18 PM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 16, 2019, 11:19:54 PM
I'm hoping this is not DOTing too badly, but I've had bumpers with and with out the tubes/brush guards. I've debated whether they are really functional. If running into a branch it only delays the impact to the fender as it bounces off the guard. if you hit someone or something really hard it might reduce the amount of damage to the sheet metal but it's going to bend up. Add to that the difficulty in cleaning the front of the vehichle from the tubes (and is some cases expanded metal grates) in front.
Wondering what the builder has to say about the usefulness of the tubes?
I certainly have some thoughts on this but it is to lengthy to get into the details on my phone. Will out something up early next week for you. For the most part, would agree with you though.
Post by: JR on March 17, 2019, 12:07:45 AM
It certainly will help with pedestrians at the mall
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But they aren't in the mulch!
I would rather bend and scrape a sheet metal than loose lights. Plus depending on speed it may allow stopping to avoid sheet metal damage before it snaps?
Post by: stlaser on March 17, 2019, 12:12:14 AM
Post by: wyorunner on March 17, 2019, 12:42:59 AM
I’m thinking hitting a deer might be the only useful purpose for the tubing....
Kangaroo???
Post by: JR on March 17, 2019, 01:06:46 PM
I’m thinking hitting a deer might be the only useful purpose for the tubing....
Liberal
Post by: Bear9350 on March 17, 2019, 03:22:28 PM
Protection from collisions. It could be with animals, other vehicles, or the surrounding terrain and vegetation. There are three main areas to protect. The first and most important in my mind is the radiator and on diesel trucks the intercooler. Keep those intact and you can drive home. Secondary to the coolers in my mind are the lights. Again, you probably hot that deer at night, and you need to be able to see to get home. Third is the protection of the body panels and the grille. Those items are just cosmetic, although possibly expensive to repair.
Most often times people that I talk to are most concerned with animal impacts, specificly deer. Sometimes these people contact me after they have hit a deer and need a replacement and are looking for something heavier. Most vehicles I work with have a tall enough stance that a deer will bounce off the bumper and go under the vehicle. It seems reasonable to me that while the body goes under the bumper, the animal's head may whip up and strike a headlight or grille. In this case it seems reasonable to me that the head may do damage to the grille, but would unlikely cause damage to the coolers. The brush guard tubing or grille bar may help prevent this. It also seems reasonable to me that the head could do damage to the lights. In this case I do not think just a grille guard would help much. A full brush guard where there is a bar separating the high and low beams might help here. These are really the only scenarios where I see the tubing to be helpful. Due to my location I occasionally have some people ask me about collisions with a moose. I guess in this case maybe a full brush guard would be more helpful. Then again, if you hit a moose you've probably have more extensive damage and it might not matter much.
In the case of another vehicle I really don't see how the extra tube guards will help much. Similar thoughts with driving through brush. A guard might push sticks around your lights, but after clearing the front end it is still likely to drag down the side of the vehicle. In some cases it might prevent a stick from puncturing the radiator.
The next use case is somebody just looking for a bumper to mount a winch in. This is rare for me. I would estimate less then 10% of the bumpers I build are equipped with winch mounting features. I would guess only half of those will ever see a winch. In today's market there are also options for hidden winches in the stock bumpers for many vehicles.
The next group of people are those that just want to change the look of the front end. For them the tubing makes sense if it's the look they are going for.
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 17, 2019, 04:17:36 PM
Post by: KensAuto on March 17, 2019, 04:17:58 PM
Post by: JR on March 17, 2019, 05:16:32 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 18, 2019, 11:10:19 AM
Here's why I asked Brian to build a radiator/front end guard
The design is one of my favorites, roughly modeled from the effective ARB Bull Bars.
Being a creature of habit, and having grown up with HMMV's , Pengasuers, Ranger Jeeps, DMV's FAV's, and that family of special purpose vehicles, well, they pretty much all had guards of some sort. We ran them at high speeds through brush, and sides of buildings. When lifting them, I drug quite a few through the branches of trees in Kentucky, Arkansas, Flordia, Massachuettes, New York, Alaska, Germany, Korea, Panama, Columbia, and a bunch of other places. Most times the vehicle was operapable afterward.
The Burb will see zero flight time below a Chinook but, things hitting branches is likely for this family cruiser.
I do run into deer on occasion. One I saw actually entered the engine compartment through the stack of coolers. I doubt a grill guard would have prevented this 70mph impact, but it might stop a 50 miler???
I have experienced quite a bit of "Nose damage" on C-Max while driving on primitive trails here in the tuck. I kind of want to minimize that and keep the Burb "Prettier."
I plan to add limb risers from the outward corners up to the coming roof rack.
I have always like looking at the back side of two KC daylighters mounted close together on the top tube...not sure why... :rolleyes:
I like the look of a grill guard
I really like the look of this thing Brian cobbled together!
I will have to literally push a tree out of the way 1X-2X a year that has fallen in the road into my farm that prevents me from getting in, or going home in the evening after a couple days.
So for those reasons I opted for this beautiful addition and will proudly hang it on Ravin8 shortly
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 18, 2019, 08:23:41 PM
Plus they give ya something to sit on while working on the motor
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 18, 2019, 10:33:24 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/jbVFzUY.jpg)
The first plate was cut to slide over the tube at about a 10 degree angle.
(https://i.imgur.com/6l1HsV8.jpg)
The second plate will be slapped on top of the first. This plate had groves cut into it so that it could be welded directly to the end of the 2" tube. Here he second plate is tacked to the tube and the 2 plates are tacked together. After this I welded the plates together and to the tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZpFIwt8.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 18, 2019, 10:40:30 PM
I started out by welding a nut to a plate and then welding that plate to the inside of the 2" tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/cEsKJ89.jpg)
I then drilled a hole into a plate and welded that to the back side of the 2-1/2" tube. To clamp the tubes together the bolt will be inserted into the hole in the rear of the 2-1/2" tube and threaded into the nut welded to the 2" tube. The tubes will then be drawn together. Should he need to adjust it for a larger tire in the future spacers could be added between the tubes to push the tire further away from the bumper. It will not be a super quick and easy adjustment to make on the fly, but as this should only need to be done should there be a major change to the tires or wheels I was ok with that.
(https://i.imgur.com/1yOxsKo.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 18, 2019, 10:44:52 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/T05oJw8.jpg)
Then I inserted the bolts that will fasten the tire to the carrier. These are 14 mm bolts with the same thread as the wheel studs. These will be welded in place after confirming the wheel hub size.
(https://i.imgur.com/vJHiHCn.jpg)
And a sort of finished pic.
(https://i.imgur.com/5LCFmRs.jpg)
Post by: JR on March 18, 2019, 11:54:51 PM
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 19, 2019, 06:47:02 AM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 19, 2019, 08:15:21 AM
You using an engine hoist now,,,,,!
?? This directed at me? If so I'm confused.
Post by: Bear9350 on March 19, 2019, 08:16:40 AM
Looks good. Hub should be 116mm or 4.56 inches.
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I grabbed a hub diameter of 130.81mm or about 5.15" off the box that Don's new wheels came in. Guessing those might have been a little larger then the factory wheel.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2019, 09:51:32 AM
Brian,Looks good. Hub should be 116mm or 4.56 inches.
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I grabbed a hub diameter of 130.81mm or about 5.15" off the box that Don's new wheels came in. Guessing those might have been a little larger then the factory wheel.
I just tried to stick my dial caliper inside the wheel to measure that hub. The calipers will not fit into the wheel recess from either side, (Wrong type caliper) but I can see that it is measuring something north of 5". So I suspect the 5.15" is correct without actually being able to verify. It is definitely not 4.56"
That spacing design is clever. Good idea. I will likely stay with these totally inexpensive but serviceable wheels forever, but nice to have options. Who knows what the future holds. I can say with certainty that I will not be using re-centered HMMWV wheels and Army surplus tires. Those things were enormously heavy. Taking them off SquareD was a real workout.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2019, 09:57:31 AM
Throughout this build we have seen attention to detail and fretting over the most minor things. All that, of course adds up to one outstanding product, which is readily evident in the pics laid out in these pages.
So since you so, Well, I can't say the word, since I am striving not to be so coarse (See that Nate, the Warrant officer is trying to clean up his act). Well since you have put so much thought into these steel bumpers of yours, how would you recommend I finish them?
I am not going to use the globular matter sometimes called truck bed liner. It is all cobbled up lookin' and these works of art deserve a finer finishing. Something near but a tad short of something Tex, the Redness of neck, would do for his beautiful trucks.
Lets hear what you are thinking...
Post by: KensAuto on March 19, 2019, 10:21:27 AM
Looks great
Post by: Nate on March 19, 2019, 10:36:21 AM
Let me ask you a question publically about final coating your bumpers.
Throughout this build we have seen attention to detail and fretting over the most minor things. All that, of course adds up to one outstanding product, which is readily evident in the pics laid out in these pages.
So since you so, Well, I can't say the word, since I am striving not to be so coarse (See that Nate, the Warrant officer is trying to clean up his act). Well since you have put so much thought into these steel bumpers of yours, how would you recommend I finish them?
I am not going to use the globular matter sometimes called truck bed liner. It is all cobbled up lookin' and these works of art deserve a finer finishing. Something near but a tad short of something Tex, the Redness of neck, would do for his beautiful trucks.
Lets hear what you are thinking...
:facepalm:
Post by: JR on March 19, 2019, 10:44:08 AM
Looks good. Hub should be 116mm or 4.56 inches.
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I grabbed a hub diameter of 130.81mm or about 5.15" off the box that Don's new wheels came in. Guessing those might have been a little larger then the factory wheel.
To move it around, lots of steel there.
Post by: dave945 on March 19, 2019, 10:47:28 AM
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Post by: stlaser on March 19, 2019, 11:21:21 AM
How about getting them chromed? :) They would definitely stand out and say look at me. Plus they could be a locating device for getting your mulch extraction team in.m
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Correct a signal beacon when you’re in distress in those mulch beds! Great idea & before you say it’s too bling or something crazy let us remind you that you did own an H3..... :facepalm:
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 19, 2019, 11:55:44 AM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 19, 2019, 12:36:00 PM
Let me ask you a question publically about final coating your bumpers.
Throughout this build we have seen attention to detail and fretting over the most minor things. All that, of course adds up to one outstanding product, which is readily evident in the pics laid out in these pages.
So since you so, Well, I can't say the word, since I am striving not to be so coarse (See that Nate, the Warrant officer is trying to clean up his act). Well since you have put so much thought into these steel bumpers of yours, how would you recommend I finish them?
I am not going to use the globular matter sometimes called truck bed liner. It is all cobbled up lookin' and these works of art deserve a finer finishing. Something near but a tad short of something Tex, the Redness of neck, would do for his beautiful trucks.
Lets hear what you are thinking...
Honestly, I like bed liner, not the really big chunky stuff with a lot of texture. Something a little finer but still with some texture to it. I like the texture for a couple of reasons:
It hides any imperfections in the steel really well. I am not working with automotive body panel sheet metal class steel. It is not uncommon for the cut parts to have some scratches and small gouges in them from transportation etc.. before I even see them. Once I start welding and putting heat into the steel, it will start to move some. Flat surfaces are no longer flat. If I weld a bracket on the backside of the bumper, HAZ will leave a raised area on the front surface. I do grind this area down. If I am going to just paint or powder coat these area that area does not just need to be grinded, but sanded also, as well as every other inch of the bumper really. There are some exterior areas where I weld that can not easily be grinded/ really cleaned up. Painting over these areas with regular paint, just makes those imperfect welds pop right out at you to my eye. Basically, regular paint is going to really show any imperfections in the steel/ welds, unless you go through the process of using body filler and sanding the entire bumper. I'm not really big on finish work, it gets real tedious real quick, and if I need to start charging people to do all this clean up work it is going to start getting real expensive real quick. A bed liner product is kind of like putting texture on drywall in your house, it just breaks up the surface to hide all the little imperfections.
If you do run into something or push something out of the way resulting in a scratch or get some rock chips etc.. it is easier to repair those damages a little more seamlessly. Depending on the damage you may need to do a little clean-up work but you should be able to blend the repair into the rest of the bumper without to much effort.
What I generally recommend is a good quality bed liner on top of a couple coats of good primer. Of course with any paint job, it is going to be all in the prep work, Get it cleaned up good and get a good etching primer down first. If you want to do it right follow up with a coat or 2 of an epoxy primer. Then a couple light coats of a good bed liner product. I follow that up with a coat of clear. I find the bed liner products can sometimes dry a little flat or almost gray. The clear gets the black darker. I also find that the bed liner products will sometimes seem to hold dirt and be harder to clean etc.. I coat or two of clear seems to act as a release and help keep it clean with just a spray down.
Post by: wilsonphil on March 19, 2019, 02:40:47 PM
The next step in the plan was to weld the center hub onto the carrier to help center the wheel. After tacking in place I thought the hub looked rather large and wanted to make sure that it was not to large for the hub spacing on the wheels. The OD of this pipe is 4-1/2" Here it is just tacked in place until I can confirm this will work.
(https://i.imgur.com/T05oJw8.jpg)
Then I inserted the bolts that will fasten the tire to the carrier. These are 14 mm bolts with the same thread as the wheel studs. These will be welded in place after confirming the wheel hub size.
(https://i.imgur.com/vJHiHCn.jpg
And a sort of finished pic.
[img width=466 height=350]https://i.imgur.com/5LCFmRs.jpg)
One thing you and Don could discuss is not welding in the studs, use what he currently has and that way if oyu out on the trail you have spare studs. Just drill the holes sliguhtly undersize or very small tacks so the stud can be knocked out when needed. Just a thought.
Post by: KensAuto on March 19, 2019, 03:51:28 PM
Bedliner also has grip when you use it as a step.(I step on mine almost daily)
Best way would be to paint over the bedliner (urethane) to keep it from fading. (something I wish I had done)
Post by: rpar86 on March 19, 2019, 05:41:20 PM
I painted my rear bumper black with that stuff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190319/4825fbc8bc5f2e70fd89364b5aef11ad.jpg)
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Post by: Flyin6 on March 19, 2019, 11:10:55 PM
Don you could use the KBS stuff on the bumpers, but then use the topcoat, too, which has the UV protection.I was actually considering the KBS stuff, but I've had terrible luck with it in a UV environment. Paint over it and you've got soft paint over kryptonite.
I painted my rear bumper black with that stuff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190319/4825fbc8bc5f2e70fd89364b5aef11ad.jpg)
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After hearing all the comments, perhaps the standard finish I give them is best. Acid etching primer, a two stage urethane product, then overcoat with some sort of urethane based bed liner. Painting over that is something I have never done, but I just may. I've found the stuff fades and really absorbs the sun's heat. Perhaps a clearcoat of a blast of urethane black or semi-flat black would provide a good looking finish.
And, I did not plan to make a career out of painting those things, as I am on a timeline to get ready to go...
Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 20, 2019, 06:25:10 AM
The did the steps on my Dually when I went from chrome to black. There’s one near you in Erlanger
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 20, 2019, 08:33:28 AM
Post by: Bear9350 on March 20, 2019, 09:15:10 AM
Then I started working on some other things. When the swing arm closes I didn't want it to slide on the bumper and rub paint off. I also wanted to make sure everything clamped up nice and tight though. I purchased some sheets of black plastic UHMW to cut to size and bolt onto the bumper for slides. These pieces are 3/8" thick, thick enough to drill a recess for a screw head and still bolt down.
I drilled and tapped the bumper for these pieces, and the drilled and recessed the plastic pieces before bolting in place. There is a piece on the top surface of the bumper and the bottom surface of the swing arm to prevent rubbing of paint, and one piece on the back upright of the bumper where the swing arm will be clamped to. I still need to do a little more sanding on the corners of these plastic pieces but the general shape was roughed in.
(https://i.imgur.com/k52FujX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t6ifcqh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZUaq31Y.jpg)
This was some pretty tedious work and was all I managed to get accomplished last night after helping one of my wife's coworkers out. I think the guy had a 20 year old Honda Accord that was starting to rust out. The exhaust had completely fallen off and the muffler shop wanted to charge him $350 to fix it. This guy definitely doesn't have $350 to spare on something like this and the wife asked if I could take a look at it for him. It turned out that the flange had completely rusted off of the down pipe and was gone. I was able to pretty quickly fab up a new flange, and luckily there was enough material there to weld a new flange onto and bolt everything back together. There was no gasket left, and I'm sure there is still a decent exhaust leak, but atleast I was able to get the two pipes connected again and the majority of the exhaust gas leaving through the tail pipe.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 20, 2019, 09:33:51 AM
Line-X, OK I'll take a look
I had my Tundra Line-X coated back in 2001. The stuff faded and pilled up. Not a great coating in my view.
But if they changed their formulation, well...
Post by: rpar86 on March 20, 2019, 10:39:40 AM
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Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 20, 2019, 01:46:12 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190320/13690b01dc226052498ea7095f06acb6.jpg)
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Post by: KensAuto on March 20, 2019, 07:15:23 PM
...100 times better than Raptor I might add.
... and the Black option now comes standard with UV protection, without painting it. ..like Tex said.
They can texture it anyway you want, by holding the spray gun at different distances.
Post by: Atkinsmatt on March 20, 2019, 08:06:34 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 20, 2019, 08:16:46 PM
I believe Line x is still the best looking option, even after they had to redo mine after not doing it right the first time (but that wasn't the product's fault). If they do it in color, they mix auto paint into a clear base (instead of black), then spray the outside layer with the same paint so it "soaks" into the outer layer. Mine is matched to the truck, and is still perfect after about 5 years of Az sun, and hauling quite a bit in the bed.Picture ?
...100 times better than Raptor I might add.
... and the Black option now comes standard with UV protection, without painting it. ..like Tex said.
They can texture it anyway you want, by holding the spray gun at different distances.
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Post by: Nate on March 20, 2019, 10:35:21 PM
I believe Line x is still the best looking option, even after they had to redo mine after not doing it right the first time (but that wasn't the product's fault). If they do it in color, they mix auto paint into a clear base (instead of black), then spray the outside layer with the same paint so it "soaks" into the outer layer. Mine is matched to the truck, and is still perfect after about 5 years of Az sun, and hauling quite a bit in the bed.
...100 times better than Raptor I might add.
... and the Black option now comes standard with UV protection, without painting it. ..like Tex said.
They can texture it anyway you want, by holding the spray gun at different distances.
Did you match the duramax or the old squarebody?
Post by: KensAuto on March 20, 2019, 11:31:56 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 21, 2019, 09:39:21 AM
Dmax.. I posted pics in the dot thread so as to not dirty up this one.Ah, Ken...This is why you're my favorite!
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 09:21:22 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/7B7D0eP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V3fBzIU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SCALeIM.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 09:24:23 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/xkZGhJp.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 09:27:02 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/I2qZsID.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hTW7Cy7.jpg)
This is what that will pin into. I left it open to the back side so that there wasn't an area that couldn't be painted and so water couldn't get trapped in there.
(https://i.imgur.com/0MQfZRQ.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 09:35:42 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/jyZg2V0.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 09:49:23 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/PMwDwXJ.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 10:03:19 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/IoRPJcz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HTlfiEF.jpg)
I placed another piece of the plastic on this side of the bumper to prevent the pin from sliding against the bumper and scratching paint off. The front edge was bevelled so that the arm could just be swung open and the pin would drop in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/QLFoemk.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 10:05:39 PM
Without arm installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/tRBzkkS.jpg)
With arm installed and some pics of the latches and pins.
(https://i.imgur.com/mt0QDp9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q2J0Kjf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4NvGF8N.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VVZHnAy.jpg)
And one of the arm swung open and pinned in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/CtII6uq.jpg)
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 23, 2019, 10:16:23 PM
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Post by: Bear9350 on March 23, 2019, 10:30:21 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 23, 2019, 10:41:11 PM
175 maybe. I will put it on the scale before it ships.I just pulled the stocker off this afternoon. Make it 30-40 lbs
This bumper you built, Brian, mimics the sea wall defenses the Germans erected at Normandy France!
;-)
Post by: Flyin6 on March 23, 2019, 10:42:26 PM
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 23, 2019, 11:01:20 PM
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Post by: wyorunner on March 23, 2019, 11:40:38 PM
At the rate the Burb is gaining weight, I may have to short track a LB7 or a LBZ swap!
AFTER THE TRIP!!!! Do not bring this thought into the picture now... Yoo can visit this idea the day you get home.
Post by: dave945 on March 24, 2019, 07:38:09 AM
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Post by: JR on March 24, 2019, 01:32:25 PM
Bumper looks great, but that is a lot of weight swinging out there!
Post by: Bear9350 on March 26, 2019, 10:45:17 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/NY3paFN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3CWFNvg.jpg)
Post by: Bear9350 on March 26, 2019, 10:50:51 PM
I toss both bumpers on there and strap them down with a couple of ratchet straps and they are ready to go.
Weighed some stuff up tonight.
Front bumper: 125 lbs
Rear bumper without arm attached: 90 lbs
Swing Arm: 80 lbs
Total rear bumper: 170 lbs
Post by: JR on March 26, 2019, 11:27:33 PM
Don, no pictures and it didn't come.
Post by: Flyin6 on March 27, 2019, 07:38:39 AM
That is a hefty arm!^^^ The man is threatenin' me!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don, no pictures and it didn't come.
Post by: swbhobie16 on March 27, 2019, 08:37:59 AM
I Triple Dog Dare you Don. LBZ or Bust
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i’ll hook you up with the guy doing my stand alone harness.. i’d bet you could have it in and running in an kind weekend :evil: hahaha
Post by: JR on March 27, 2019, 10:52:18 AM
^^ The man is threatenin' me!!!!!!!!!!!!
And,,,,,,,
Post by: Bigdave_185 on March 27, 2019, 02:33:34 PM
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Post by: TexasRedNeck on March 27, 2019, 03:15:45 PM
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Post by: stlaser on March 27, 2019, 03:24:27 PM
Careful somebody might break a hip....
Post by: JR on March 27, 2019, 04:47:19 PM
Post by: Flyin6 on March 27, 2019, 07:24:57 PM
Why do I have a flashback to the movie Grumpy Old Men....On a serious note, frozen trout can kill! ;-)
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Post by: JR on March 28, 2019, 12:51:28 AM