0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
I pulled the valley cover to get a look at the top of the oiled area of the motor and have a peek at the knock sensors. One was OK, one was heavily corroded and will get replacedThe valley cover and everything else is currently soaking in the purple detergent losing some non-necessary grease calories!
Quote from: Flyin6 on January 04, 2019, 09:29:33 PMI pulled the valley cover to get a look at the top of the oiled area of the motor and have a peek at the knock sensors. One was OK, one was heavily corroded and will get replacedThe valley cover and everything else is currently soaking in the purple detergent losing some non-necessary grease calories!Let me guess... the rear knock sensor?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Definitely both, only delco, and a new harness siliconed in place, with a 1/4"x1/4" silicone dam around the front of the grommets 180 degrees... open on back half. ..per GM bulletin, to help keep water out of those stupid holes...and don't pressure wash that motor ever again if you can help it.
I just saw this thread and want to say that I have a much higher mileage twin to this rig. Mine is a 2001 with 280 something thousand miles on it. I like the truck a lot, except for fuel economy. LolA couple of pointers; the stuff I read when I had my valley plate and knock sensors out said to remove the rear foam block that you saw under the intake in addition to the rtv dams in front of the sensors. The nasty buildup that you saw in the intake was probably from the crappy pcv system, not poor fuel. Some people like to run catch cans, even on stock engines to keep that stuff out of the intake. I heard that there's a valley plate from a Corvette that has the pcv built in that will work on the lq4 that's supposed to be better than the stock set up. I wonder if just drilling and tapping a hole for a fitting in the stock one will accomplish the same thing, or maybe two fittings, one to attach the hose from the stock pcv location and one to go to the intake? Just something I've been brainstorming. There is also an updated pcv valve that doesn't have a check ball in it.On tires, (I have only skimmed through the first and last pages, so you might have figured something out, I'll catch up later) my suburban came with the 6" lift and 35"x12.5" tires on 17" wheels. The tires rubbed quite a bit so I folded the pinch welds on the front of the cab to stop this, but it'd still rub when I turned sometimes. I went with 315/70/17's when I got new wheels and tires and they don't ever rub.I had a very hard time finding the gaskets for the little coolant bypass pipe that bolts to the corners of the heads. If you need some, the only ones that I was able to find were doorman part number 56390. The issue was nobody's catalog showed them, so it took a ton of looking.Hopefully you have better luck with all the power options inside than I do. I don't think the seats have worked right since I got it, and I've had a couple of blend door motors go bad too. I've also been through a few window regulators. Probably the coolest thing I've figured out though was how to turn off the "service suspension" light that comes on when you get rid of the auto ride struts. Some people have luck wiring resistors in place of the struts, but in my case, I was able to just unplug the control module (it's in the right rear corner between the rear climate control and the taillight) and unplug the battery for a bit. The light hasn't come back on in a couple of years now.
May huh? I was just talking to my wife about if we had enough weekends between now and May to build a truck from a bare frame. Sounds like we might both be busy.
Don, my helper knows a few things about mods to that engine, and we were discussing your build. The first thing he asked me was " is he doing a Trailblazer SS intake swap ? It's good for 30hp, and you can get a new Dorman off Amazon for 240.00". You hear about that anywhere? He says it's a pretty easy swap, but he's also in his 20's so ya might take that with a grain of salt. lolWhen you drop that pan be sure to change the oil cooler gasket, and GM pan gasket is just slightly more than a felpro and they last a little bit longer....and be sure the pickup tube o-ring is in the pump box, and make sure it's the right thickness compared to the old one...there are a couple different sizes/colors (color not as important). That o-ring is the weak link of LS motors, capable of sending roller lifters and crankshafts to the boneyard at an early age.
Ryan, that 44k one looks nice. 226 on the other!! Sounds like a good plan so far. If you go wheels, because you want wider for sure, you could still do 17's and clear with a 3 inch lift (really just a level kit).I probably went backwards with my intake, but I have a clearance issue with the elky hood. I now have an LS intake vs the truck 5.3 and a CTS pan.Bumpers sound cool, can't wait to see em. What is you planned route for the trip?
All this talk got me looking. Found a big boy with a big boy price... 8.1Lhttps://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/757834692/overview?aff=share_otherOk, this one is a little better.https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/760367690/overview?aff=share_otherSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like a nice drive, hitting a few parks too?Nebraska, doesn't some OLD guy live out there?