Hello Guest

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Jared Herzog

Pages: [1] 2 3
That is there best paint. I usually buy the grade below it. The paint you got has properties that resist fading for a very long time. It also repels stains and dust so less sticks to the paint and the color is ?high definition? what ever that means.
The paint you got has excellent adhesion and expands and contracts to resist cracking which allows water to get in under the paint which is bad. It also has built in primer and is a one coat paint. I always do two coats but that paint can be done and look great with one thorough pass.
Most repaints we do are going over other workers contractor paints which means the cheapest a guy can get to bid a job and then add a quart of water to every gallon to cut it and make it go further. These require almost stripping with a pressure washer. Otherwise the best paint in the world is only as good as the layer under it. So if the first cheap layer peals then the expensive stuff comes off with it.
You did good with your selection.

Looks great.

I store a ton of stuff in my attic in the storage building. I have a 6/12. An 8/12 would be better. I will pm you my number for 20% off behr paints and stains.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 09:08:46 PM »
Yes, it is the profile. There are two different sizes. As far as i know it is the smaller of the two. The larger looks bad when installed as it hangs down. Just trim it with a razor knife and cut it with a circular saw. Do not cut it real cold this time of the year as it will crack. Warm it up if needed.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 07:59:33 PM »
Before starting mark every ceiling joist around the perimeter. These are hard to find when fighting the sheet. Then install your first piece. Nail 12? in from the edge and only nail the perimeter at the 8?-12? in from the edge making sure each nail is good. Do not nail the field. If it is deep it will pull through so add another fastener and adjust the guns depth driver. If it is shallow set it. Then before the next piece goes in install the h vinyl. Nailing 12? away from the edge will allow this piece to slide in. The h vinyl gets cut to about 4? and a notch is made in the part that is tucked up in the material. This will allow the perpendicular row to fit without hitting the 4? butt joint piece. Just keep going like this using the previous piece of h vinyl to help hold the next sheet. When you are done use a chalk line preferably white chalk or a non oil chalk and mark every joist row. This makes every fastener hit lumber and not blow a hole through the material. From here finish nailing the fields and also nail the edges.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 21, 2018, 07:32:43 PM »
Here are some tricks on the ceiling hardi. Use H vinyl. Before sliding the piece into the h vinyl take a grinder to the hardi and make sure it will fit in the h vinyl. Usually the ends are mushroomed from the factory and they will not go in, just buzz around the perimeter and clean it up. Grind as fast as you can walk around it is all it takes. A heat gun helps massage the plastics if needed. That ceiling hardi is horrible to do with less than two guys. It is very flexible and breaks easily and is expensive. A 2x4 cut to ceiling height with a flat 3-4? piece on the top can be used as a prop. It is almost impossible to do alone and have it look good. Without H vinyl the joints look wavy and the nails have a tendency to blow the edges out. Start with a chalk line for reference and mark it 4?1/2? from the beam or wall where you will be starting. If the first row is stair stepped the rest is more difficult.
Wish i was closer to your end of Texas. I would lend a hand.
Here is one i just did. Zoom in and you can see the h vinyl and how i staggered the joints.

I do not know how much sand it takes to stop the different bullets. I know they penetrate further than i would have guessed. Sand is easy to dry out and pour down a wall. I imagine with roving bands looting they will more likely be equipped with smaller weapons like handguns and 22 type findings. I hope a strong building with hidden storage has them moving on to easier targets. I would not want to be pinned down in a small building taking fire for any amount of time. I like hiding stuff everywhere. A home is more likely to be burned to the ground. Or at least burned first.
I am liking plywood more than osb currently. A test is hit osb with a hammer as hard as you can and watch the entire hammer and part of the handle go in. Now beat the plywood with a much larger hammer many many more times and all you get is a dent. I would hope this would stop more flying debris better.
I like the suggestion of gravel. It can be installed easily up to 4? where the plywood seam is. From there finish it off with sand through a hole drilled in the top plate using a funnel. Around here we have cheap decomposed granite also.
At some point switching to 8?x8?x16? cinder blocks with rebar doubled up every lift and rebar in every tube filled 100% with maximizer gets stronger and affordable. It will not rot or burn. Then stucco the outside.

People would be better off always building their own storage buildings. The ones that can be purchased pre built around here are expensive and poorly constructed. They utilize 2x3 studs 24?oc and masonite siding with the cheapest three tab shingles a guy can find.
You may be able to put some guys to work prefabbing walls and put your own kit together.
We have done a few storage/well buildings and we try to incorporate hidden storage in the ceiling joists for rifles. The walls and ceiling get osb sheeting on the inside which gets screwed down. The attic floor also has a layer of osb or plywood to create the hidden storage in the ceiling. These screws can be removed in different places to reveal canned food storage and ammo stockpiles. The 3 1/2? cavity can have pine dividers installed so almost anything a guy might want to hide can be stacked.
We have sat down with more than one homeowner and strongly suggested they leave their home for the storage building in the event of a tornado. These homes where we recommended this were framed terribly poorly. The walls had cracks you could fit your fingers into and swayed in the wind.
These small buildings can be made SUPER strong. When we do a reinforced storage building it gets extra concrete anchors during the pour. Then the base plate is anchored more with additional wedge anchors. All plywood sheeting must grab the bottom plate and both top plates then it is best to go with structural soffit.  The inside gets 3/4? plywood. The outside gets hardi and under that 5/8? plywood. The plywood layers stop projectiles like flying studs better than osb. This plywood sandwich can be insulated or foamed inside. Some have us fill the cavity with sand or maximizer in lifts. The sand filled cavity is better with a thicker wall.  Go 2x6 or 2x8. This will stop or slow down bullets.

Here is my 12x14 with 4x8 porch and hidden storage. The window looks like a weak link but there is a 3/4? layer of plywood that slips into slots and is pinned in. It is then painted black to look dark inside. The door locks are anchored into studs and there are metal plates slotted into the studding. I plan to epoxy fill the door and add timbers that also prevent the door from being kicked in.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 19, 2018, 07:20:15 PM »
I am afraid i am of little help here. In Texas we do not use basements. When we hide bunkers underground and under buildings due to our climate insulation down there is of little value.
Does anyone else know the answer?

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 11:55:59 AM »
JR might be onto something. Some of the 6X6 turned posts already have a square hollow core. Maybe you can find some square tubing that fits inside without drilling and compromising the post. If you do use pipe use heavy pipe. Like rigid electrical conduit pipe or drilling pipe. The thinner fencing pipe used on corners is good with compression to a point. But, if there is a side load that causes any deformation of the wall they will bend real easy. Most posts are only strong when vertical. Induce sway and the post is no longer vertical. Also, on these covers the posts are exposed to more weather as wind blows rain into the structure. Even with good paint the expansion and contraction of the wood forms small cracks in the paint. These cracks absorb water into the post under the paint where it is harder to dry out. This increases the speed at which they rot. If you can find posts treated and rated for ground contact they will last longer. Much longer. The posts i am seeing on the market are treated with a wax type coating which makes them safe to use inside a dwelling. This coating is also used as a food preservatives and is safe and non toxic. But, outside they are not holding up well for extended time periods. 
Another thing worth mentioning is that turned posts with a hollow core get pretty thin where they are turned. The manufacturers are using (4) 2x6?s glued together with a hollow core then turning them to kick out these posts. I think the 6x6 posts are rated for @5500-6000 pounds each but only in compression.
Something else i learned the hard way is to always wrap wooden posts that are getting wrapped with rock really well. They need to be pre painted and wrapped in house wrap or tar paper or both. If not the rock absorbs water this water is transferred to the post and causes the post to swell. This swelling post expands and cracks the rock work which allows more water in and more swelling. 

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 09:46:16 AM »
Here is a free standing carport we did behind a custom home. We went around and around with the engineer and homeowner on this one. They wanted heavy timber with no braces. Minimalist. We declined to build it without bracing. It is properly built and braced. It is VERY top heavy. All the internals are cedar beam. It moved in every direction 4?-6? even with the corner braces. I have it pinned to an old cedar so the roofers could go up top and be safe. Before we left we also used 1/4? plate on every single joint with through bolts. That is when we removed the tree brace. The plates helped stiffen it up and it is still there today but i do not think it would stand without corner braces. Without the plates and through bolts the movement would have eventually worked the timber locks loose until it failed. Once high winds are factored in bracing is essential.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 19, 2018, 09:29:10 AM »
If you are using the posts i think you are burying them in the dirt and concreting around them will remove any movement and also take the need for using braces on the corners away for a year or two. Then the posts will be either rotted or termite infested and will need to be redone. When we get into free standing structures we go to 4x4 steel posts galvanized and buried in a hole filled with concrete. Or we use imbeds and weld the post to the imbed.
You can do imbeds and attach wooden posts to them but no matter what there will be a pivot point there. Depending on the amount of air push and lift that roof has it could be substantial movement. If it were my structure with my family underneath it i would do at least one of these things.
1) corner braces on wood or iron posts.
2) cement in galvanized posts and have a plate at the top of the post that wraps around the beam and is structurally screwed to the beam removing movement and the ability to lift.
3) Wall in two sides of the structure and internally reinforce the roof structure to stop any side to side movement.
4) Anchor it to an existing structure.
It is nice to match existing structures but it is more important to ensure a structure is stable. The posts can be rocked around and used as a feature that matches some existing rock on the pool or in the yard to keep a theme going. I have been lucky to never have a structure come down. In my part of Central Texas it is common to get straight line winds. I have been on ranches and seen structures that are not braced and anchored properly simply get ripped from the ground and tossed into a pasture. What is more common is less wind that induces sway and the roof being heavy pivots the posts and lays over. If the corner braces are not proper it can snap the post right below the brace.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 17, 2018, 08:26:20 PM »
That is what spelling phonetically will get you. Fonetikaly? If you still do not get it read it out loud to your wife. Thats what i did lol.

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc / Re: Dewalt 20Volt impact gun
« on: January 16, 2018, 08:08:59 AM »
I agree that the Rigid has a pretty good warranty. Had my set from over 10 years ago fixed or replaced many times. It is used daily. It is a long and painful process at times though. Eventually my 24V Rigid stuff was warrantied out for 18V stuff which is not nearly as good. Not a fan of Ryobi. The few Ryobi tools we have purchased were geared to homeowners more than the trades. Their batteries did not hold up and i think most of the internals were plastic and stripped out. But, homeowners and older people like the light weight feel. Not a fan of any one tool manufacturer and have a mix of stuff. To me the tool must feel right. Dewalt does not have the best warranty and i think they need to improve the life span of their batteries but i run stuff hard all day and Dewalt is still in my truck. I am going to try the flex volt dewalt stuff soon. Some of my tools get run so hard you can no longer hold them due to their heat. I have actually caught my Rigid drill and circular saw on fire more than once. Rigid replaces them. Makita and Milwaukee are both good also. The battery tools have gotten pretty good over the years. Sometimes when you are really working the tools there is no replacement for a corded tool.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: January 14, 2018, 10:07:36 AM »
I have always had the same issue you are having with your windows sticking out further than the trim if i understand you correctly. On my next project i think i will mill some trex to build the window trim out 3/16?-1/4? beyond the window rather than being that amount subflush.
If i remember correctly you have vinyl windows. Those usually have a return which will allow the trim and window to be sealed whereas aluminum window have no return so you end up with a void that is troublesome to seal. I have tried doubling up hardi but my nailers will not get a nail through 1 1/2? hardi. Plywood would be easy but would rot unless sealed well. I think trex or composite deck material would work and be millable.
Your project is looking great.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 09, 2018, 08:08:25 AM »
Usually the screw will not be sub flush with a mis. If it is a nail then usually the drywall will pop off and expose the loose nail. The real issue is this thing may pull the nails and screws out of the wood.LOL. It is amazing that some magnets can be so strong. There are warnings about placing this magnet near anything like credit cards and pacemakers.
I have two rolling magnets we use to remove roofing nails from job sites after a new roof is installed. We also use them to clean up after a framing job. The first time i thought the magnet was just real heavy but it was magnetized to the rebar in the concrete. I hate moving that magnet in anything but my trailer. I always wondered if it would ruin the trucks computers. One customer with a pacemaker took one look at the magnet and could not leave fast enough.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 08, 2018, 04:43:41 PM »
Today i picked up a handy tool at Home Depot. The house we are installing trim on has 5/8? fire rated sheetrock walls with a very thick Monterey drag texture. The original builder did not transfer stud marks or hazards to the ground so now it is a guessing game. My stud finder is having a hard time getting through these thick walls. I was looking at better stud finders and came across a cheap solution from a company that focusses on hiring vets and is made in the USA sold at homedepot. 
The concept is so simple i did not think this $10 tool would work. It is a plastic pointed handle with two magnets in it. You go back and forth on the wall until it finds a sheetrock screw or nail. I was shocked at what happened when i found the first nail. The magnet is so strong it pulled the tool out of my hand and cut my finger when it slapped against the wall. The top magnet grabbed a fastener and the lower magnet pivoted the upper magnet against the metal and it dropped pointing down with gravity. Shockingly great in its function and simplicity. I give this item two thumbs and one bloody finger up.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 06, 2018, 09:30:01 PM »
I have been trying to figure out the best way to move this thread forward. I have gone back and forth. Here is my plan and i will leave it here. If there are no objections and if Don is ok with this format we will proceed. If not we will figure something else out.
I see this thread as a discussion and question and answer area. A place where we all share knowledge and learn from each other. I am planning on learning from the input given to me from you guys. I want to improve my own skillset as well as help others avoid pitfalls i have personally been in. I would like my mistakes pointed out so i can better my work. I am never offended at all especially with constructive criticism.
I do many different trades and jump around from job to job as well as building my own home slowly with my family. If i had a thread for every job or task i think we would be jumping back and forth and something would be lost and it would be confusing for everyone especially me. I am afraid i will have questions asked to me that i overlook. What i am considering is just posting my work here in the hopes that it will start a discussion on every aspect that you guys have interest in. Personally i do not care where the discussion goes based on the jobs we are all doing and the questions we all have. I would like to make it picture heavy. This will take some time on my part to gather images and post when i have wifi or a way to upload quickly.
I am planning on going back to square one with my personal home on here. I have tons of photos. Then just add work that i am doing for customers.
Anyway, what do you guys want to do? Where do we go from here?

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 06, 2018, 08:44:06 PM »
It looks good. One thing to watch for is the clearance on the knob side top. In the photo it looks tight. But, that could just be an illusion with my phone due to the angle and the door not being 100% shut. But other than that the door looks well done. Your hinge side gap looks perfect. That door is hung better than 99% of the doors i see. That is a good percentage as i am never 100% satisfied with my own door hanging. Sometimes there is a give and take with a poorly framed opening. I have seen doors so bad that the knob strike does not grab. I have had homeowners just deal with that for years. I have also had doors bind so bad that the knob binds. The hinges were spring putting a lot of pressure on the door to pull away from the stop knob side.
One issue i am seeing is the companies hanging these doors on the frames before we purchase them are installing the back cut in the wrong direction. When you get into thicker doors or fine finishing the knob side of the door must be back cut. The door companies usually buy slabs and hang the door, template and route out the hinges and drill out the knob. The diagonal point of the door where the door approaches the knob side of the frame is shorter on the side of the door that touches the stop. This allows it to pivot close to the frame without touching. Then the opposite side of the door on the knob side is longer. This closes the reveal to a tighter tolerance. If you look at the top of your doors you will likely see a back cut. Sometimes it is hard to see unless you have a square. It is usually about 1/8?.
When this back cut is backwards the stop side of the door impacts the frame. Then when you force it shut it gaps. This leaves a less than ideal gap. Then if the door is close but not impacting the frame the installer walks away and the painter shows up. The paint thickness on the door and the frame eat away at your once tight clearance and it impacts again.
When door manufacturers get this back cut wrong it complicates things. Sometimes this back cut which should be on the knob side is on the hinge side. This causes gapping issues.
One of these gapping issues is a door that feels like it is springing away from the frame stop knob side. This is because the hinges were installed incorrectly or this back cut is on the wrong side. There are times where i loosen a hinge and slide in a plastic spacer. These spacers go under the leading or trailing edge of the hinge jamb side. The sort of plastic that is used for banding on cardboard boxes. If the plastic is installed on the outer edge of the door under the hinge close to the edge it will open the reveal on the hinge side in turn closing the gap on the knob side. This takes the springy feeling away if the gap was too tight and the door is impacting the frame on the hinge side. Some of this springy feeling is because the manufacturer did not fully route under the hinge on either side. Or they installed the screws crooked and a screw head is impacting the hinge face binding it.
The opposite will happen if that plastic strip is put under the hinge closer to the stop. This will close the gap on the hinge side and give you more room on the knob side. These plastic bands can be doubled up or tripled up. Any more than that and other methods need to be used. It is unlikely to ever need more than two.
I am afraid i am starting to muddy the waters. There are hundreds of large and small techniques to adjust a door. I have all those in a bag of tricks i have used for twenty years. These are very hard to teach someone over the internet. It takes someone standing beside me with a bad door and a worse opening.
It will be interesting to see how the doors go in on my personal home. I framed it with my daughter and walked her very slowly through the framing process. My house is mathematically perfect. Something that is hard to do on a paying job. One area where i miscalculated is shrinkage. When i patterned my top plate to my bottom plate i did not account for the extra shrinkage of the wet pressure treated wood. This has allowed the bottom to contract more than the top. In some areas where we have nine foot ceilings the difference from base to top is 1/16? in that span. But, that is the worst area i could fine. Everything else is set to absolute zero.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 05, 2018, 06:51:55 PM »
Here is a problematic door i did today.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 04, 2018, 10:06:06 PM »
One thing that has helped with these heavy doors is using screws through the jams so they could be sucked up or let loose while adjustments are being made. Nails are harder to adjust. When you get the door hung where you want it set the shims with some brads or finish nails. These screws make making small adjustments easier. Do not forget to counter sink the screws. I use a pilot bit with a bore tip so it is a one step process. Then i start three screws on each side so they are ready when the door is in the proper location.
Brad nailing the shims is the last step. Otherwise they always end up falling out for me and the door gets out of wack.
If the door contacts the knob side remove a hinge screw that is closest to the center of the jamb so it will catch stud and replace the 3/4? screw with a 3? black screw or brass screw etc so they match. This pulls the door away from the knob side of the jamb.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 04, 2018, 06:33:16 PM »
I will get photos tomorrow to help describe what i am doing. This will also show all the issues I had and the solutions i chose to make the doors work and look great. It will not be easy but when i am done no one will ever have any idea of the opening issues. All doors also sit and function perfectly. No automatic openers or closers or doors that move because it is hung wrong.
The variables with hanging a door are limitless. The doors have built in pressure points that can move the entire door one way or another with just some shimming or hinge work. I am finding the companies that hang these doors are letting the pre hung quality really slip. I usually work on every single door i install to make corrections before i ever hang it. At some point I will be forced into slabs and a hinge jig to avoid all these issues.
If anyone ever wants to call me with specific questions pm me and i will give you my number.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: January 04, 2018, 06:24:38 PM »
When i buy doors that go into a 2x6 wall i get threshold extensions. I also have frames made to fit a 2x6 opening. I prefer to order these extensions and or thicker jambs to avoid the build out. I usually get these from Mccoys. If you can not get an extension you will need to seal that area well. Otherwise water will run under the door and rot the underlayment. You can flush the door out with the exterior and build up the inside. The only issue with this is if the door opens too wide before it hits a stop then the door contacts these extensions and ruins the door and hinges if they get hit hard enough. This is why doors and frames get flushed out with the hinge side wall most often. Ideally you want your threshold to extend beyond the floor so as to create a drip lip so water is shed away from the underlayment. If you do not want to move the door out you can make one from cedar or hardwood as a threshold extension. Also, trex or the composite deck stuff works well. Just seal it to the metal one. If your door is protected by a porch you should be golden as much less water will run down the face of the door.
If you can not find a threshold extension flush the door out with the outside area. I always plumb my hinge side first. If the wall is crooked with the top wall leaning in or out i split the difference. Then go to the knob side top and match it to what you did on the hinge side at the top. Then from there you do not use a level. If the hinge side is plumb and level and the top knob side is in or out or flush to match the hinge side top you use the door as a guide and equally touch the door to the seal. This matches the frame to the door seal. You do not want to plumb the knob side in such a way that leaves you with poor seal contact.
My daughter and i just got done hanging doors in a 6000 ft house. These are solid core paint grade doors and weigh a ton. The framers were in a hurry and the door rough openings are neither plumb or square. All doors were ordered for 2x4 walls and many are 2x6. On top of that the frames were for 1/2? sheetrock. The whole home ceiling and walls are 5/8 sheetrock. So it was a nightmare to hang all the doors. Some rough openings were so bad that they went 1/2? over normal and i pinned the doors corner to corner square and tight and ran out of room. The doors look perfect but it was not easy. Tomorrow I start trimming them and that is going to be a party.

Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 5
« on: January 04, 2018, 08:21:48 AM »
In a pinch most chalk lines these days are built to act as a plumb bob. Not as good as an actual plumb bob but pretty accurate.

Build Threads / Re: SquareD Part 8, This thing ever going to get finished?
« on: December 29, 2017, 07:14:36 PM »
It will be sad to never see this project completed. But, there comes a time where the cost is simply too high. The money allocated may be better spent in other areas especially when a guy has a family to think about. I do not see it as giving up. I know that whatever you decide will be in the best interest of you and your family. Good luck with the decision.

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc / Re: Dewalt 20Volt impact gun
« on: December 28, 2017, 05:26:13 PM »
Will the Dewalt work better impacting bolts on? Maybe it is not as strong in reverse.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 24, 2017, 11:11:42 AM »
Here is the expanding foam i used. It is for valleys since no closure can be cost effective to manufacture for each metal type and valley pitch. The pitch changes the length and angle of the closure.
I also use it any place that needed a closure that did not match the profiles i bought. Worked well.
Butyl /seam tape

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 24, 2017, 09:44:47 AM »
Yes, that is how i do it but i will admit it took a few jobs before i started doing that. Let me see if i can find a link to what i use. I bought it at Montopolis supply in Austin TX.
Montopolis is a great company. It is in the center of Austin and heads explode while there. It is an old school company that has been there for decades. It has been swallowed by ultra liberal Austin. There is not a single wall without a sign with a religious saying or scripture quote. Even their receipts contain scripture quotes along with book chapter and verse. People have tried to get these items removed siting offense. They refused. Awesome. I will get some photos of what is left of mine.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 24, 2017, 08:48:26 AM »
Where the image above shows the tape it also seals the screw hole that is made between the metal sheets. If the butyl tape is put on the other edge the seam is sealed but the screw hole will leak.
The tape is a pain to use when doing the metal on your own as it will stick each piece together pretty good before you have a chance to adjust the panel. This is worsened with warm tape and hot panels.
I never understood why you needed tape until last year. It was shown to me that with the little lap, on r and u panel, and no center channel within the lap that wind can blow water up slightly into the seam. The wet has a propensity to roll back and slightly up anyway. Then capillary action continues the pull of water into the dry side. 
I have always had issues with valleys and wind. Around here we have straight line winds and storms with 60 mph gusts which are not uncommon. On my home we just finished the roof a few months ago. They now have expanding foam in rolls that will seal a valley. The material compresses to 1/16? and expands to 1?. Seals up the valley real nice. Years ago we always tried flashing and butyl tape and np1 with mixed results. I also used this expanding foam anywhere that had a gap that needed to be filled before flashing was bend to cover the opening.
Your outer edge looks great. Too many times people let it saw tooth. Yours is perfect. The fact you did that solo is very impressive with tape. Looks great.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 23, 2017, 10:44:33 PM »
It goes on every lapping seam on the sheet getting lapped. The tape is used on metal that does not have a second ridge with a channel contained within the ridge. It stops capillary action which could draw water over the ridge high point and into the metal and roof deck surface. Butyl tape or seam tape is not used on sheets that have an inner channel. Some types that do not require butyl tape are five v, rain guard, or channel drain.
With low pitch areas r panel or u panel are best because the ridges stand higher giving you more depth for water to stack before it leaks. The taller the panel ridges the lower the pitch can be.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 23, 2017, 01:06:15 PM »
Back in 05 i was framing a house out on some farm land. The neighbor was also framing his home next door. At the end of the day he came over and ripped on us for using osb sheeting. He had done osb on the corners and foam board everywhere else. We were both sheeting that same day. That night we had straight line winds. There was zero foam board left on his house. So i made sure to walk over and see how he liked his foam board.
We have also used gyp lap in the past. I do not see it as often anymore. Went in just like sheeting the outside. If i remember correctly they were 2?X8? pieces.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 23, 2017, 10:09:26 AM »
JR, i think i am turned around. Your home and addition has siding on if i remember correctly. Is the foam going on the inside of the wall under the sheetrock? If so i would face the reflective side out. You will need to make sure the sheetrock screws to wood and not the foam as the screw will be difficult to keep hidden under joint compound. The material would pop off of the head exposing the screw on a finished wall. It is not a hard enough surface between the sheetrock and stud wall.
There are other products that look like reflective foil bubble wrap that might be better suited for an installation between the sheetrock and wood stud. Just make sure that the product you use can be installed in the manner you want to install it.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 23, 2017, 09:52:29 AM »
JR, i looked this up and am seeing different answers. The foam board we have installed always had two foil sides. The side with the writing was more reflective and went out. On roofing the foil faces in because the foil is more effective when facing an air space and is installed in such a way as to minimize dust staying on it. When installed on a wall neither side has a better air space as it will touch either insulation or siding/facade. With the foil facing out any condensation that forms on the foil layer could be weatherproofed to shed water out. Whereas if that layer was facing in waterproofing would be a bit more difficult.
Does the manufacturer of the product you have chosen have a specific installation procedure?
Does anyone else know the best way to install the product?

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 23, 2017, 09:30:32 AM »
JR, yes the foil faces out when installed on a wall. Your project is looking great. I do not know the science behind this but would imagine on a roof that the foil facing out would make for a very slippery surface. Years ago, when the manufacturers started adding this shield to roof decks, i read about why the foil faces in on an attic and there was another reason discussed. Now you have me curious also. I will look it up. Great question.

Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 5
« on: December 22, 2017, 08:17:19 PM »
We have great VFD guys and gals here. It helps to have them on site around here so they can chase off all the tree hugging liberals who see the smoke and want to complain loudly. 

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 22, 2017, 06:30:06 PM »
I like those hooks holding your walking planks to the extension ladders. What brand are they and where can I get a set?

Hide Site / Re: Hide Site/Bug-out location Construction, Part 5
« on: December 22, 2017, 06:24:55 PM »
We have burned a couple houses down. We donate them to the fire department who do training while they burn the house down. Then the house is considered a donation for tax purposes.
If that is what you intend with the burn day post?

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc / Re: Ridgid Tools
« on: December 22, 2017, 04:58:26 PM »
I do not know if they outsource the batteries to Ryobi or what. But, every new battery i get from them comes in a box marked Ryobi. I had a Home Depot tool guy and repair guy say that Ryobi bought Ridgid or is in some kind of a partnership. Not sure if that was accurate. If you look at the displays Ryobi has the most shelf space near the entry to the tool aisle in all the Home Depots around here.

The labor to rebuild most power tools these days is just too high. Then often there is shipping involved. I have stopped using shops to repair stuff. There are many websites where you can buy the parts to repair most stuff yourself. Then i watch youtube and see how to get it done and see how things come apart. Most tools come with a parts diagram with part numbers. Keep those as long as you own the tool. These are great for locating the part on the internet. Most tools open easily to swap broken items.  I have fixed nail guns that would have been $75 or so just to get looked at with seal kits costing less than $10 shipped.

Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc / Re: Ridgid Tools
« on: December 22, 2017, 08:19:37 AM »
I have many Ridgid tools. I prefer them and Dewalt. What is the deciding factor for me is how it feels. I need to be able to handle it all day and grab for it without looking. It also needs to have few or no safety switches. In the trades the tool must be able to run with only one hand. For example, circular saws need to be operated with one hand in awkward positions. Some homeowner tools require two hands to engage the tool which will not work when used daily for years.
I bought my first Ridgid 24 V kit back in 05. I have literally used the kit at least five days a week since then. Some days they never shut off. I have had them so hot they have caught on fire in my hand.
The warranties must be filed when the tool is purchased. I have an account and keep a computer file with them and a paper file with me in the truck. I have had the 24V batteries replaced eight times now. I use to have to take them to a service center and now they handle that in the tool rental departments. Tools are tested there but sent off for repair or replacement. I have had the hammer drill rebuilt five times. I have framed many many homes with the circular saw. I always have an electric backup in the truck but prefer the battery saw for maneuverability and weight. My kit includes the sawzall, circular saw, flashlight, hammer drill, battery charger, and two batteries all in a bag.
The bad side is they no longer make 24V stuff, because customers complained about the weight, so this last year my drill was replaced with the ? upgraded? 18 volt. It is a disappointment and not as tough as the dewalt 20V which is really an 18V. It just spikes to 20v at startup then runs at 18v. But, when they replace the tool, since they go from 24v to 18v, they also give you two batteries and a charger with it. So now i have their 20 and 18 volt stuff based on the first 05 purchase. When the 24 v batteries get replaced they come in packaging from Ryobi.
I am picky with my tools and take care of them. But they work hard and i never leave them at home. I have had Ridgid lose my warranty information before. They are always trying to make it difficult to get them fixed or replaced and it takes about six weeks in total. But, they always end up doing the exchange or replacement or repair. I plan to see how long this will keep going.

Construction and Building / The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 21, 2017, 04:05:51 PM »
If you ever want better adhesion of window tape to window tape or window to tape use a heat gun. 
This house we are doing is a mess without any markings or photos of any kind. The builder skipped ceiling boxes, light boxes, no care or concern for a quality build.

Construction and Building / Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« on: December 21, 2017, 08:17:12 AM »
I thought i would take a second to write about a couple of items that would be helpful to those doing construction. Recently we got a job to help finish a home another builder had started and semi abandoned. The home is about 6000 ft and custom. I had forgotten how helpful a couple of my tricks are that this home does not have.
1) BEFORE sheetrock go around each wall and make a pencil/sharpie mark on the floor to show all hazards. Then mark each and every stud. If the home is going to have stained concrete where marks can not be made do them in such a way that the trim will hide them. This makes installing cabinets and trim MUCH faster and easier. There is no guessing where studs are and no damage to wiring or plumbing. After sheetrock/tape/float/and paint transfer the marks to the wall but under where the trim will be. If the room gets carpet just leave them on the floor. This makes doing trim exponentially faster and the trim holds better when nailed to the studs. This particular home has 5/8? sheetrock on all walls and most are insulated. This makes the use of a stud finder more difficult and inaccurate. Right before insulation and sheetrock video tape the entire home. This along with your marks will help locate any boxes that the sheet rockers fail to cut out when hanging the drywall. 
2) Do not use compression type shutoff valves for plumbing fixtures. If the stub outs are too short and a valve needs to be replaced you will be doing demo of the cabinet or wall to get to the pipe to add another valve. Once a compression ring is pressed on it will no longer slide off the pipe. What i do is use 1/2? male adaptors soldered on. This makes it easy to install a brass cap to pressure test then just screw on the valve after walls are painted. If it ever fails just unscrew it and add another. 

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 20, 2017, 08:09:33 AM »
The nail gun hooks can be bought at HomeDepot and Lowes now. They are usually near the tool belts. They attach to the air inlet nipple. Many guns even have them built in. I have them on most of my guns so i can hook them to my belt or to a rafter or ceiling joist. Since i have been getting the hooks i have not seen a $400 gun come off from up high and fall onto the slab.
On another note i had a hammer hook once in the middle back. It was an awkward reach. I tried the hook in the middle front which did not last long.Those Occidental bags are good but expensive. I usually just pick mine up at Lowes or HomeDepot. They last a couple years but start to get holes. I am currently looking at new bags. I need a better drill holder solution. The key with bags is to be able to find a tool without looking. Also, the pockets must stay open. Two belts ago i had one which held my Springfield XD 40. The amount of dust that got on it though required a daily cleaning. I will Frankenstein my next belt to fit the 40 again. Going to look for a closed holster. Maybe something with a couple of snaps. 

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 17, 2017, 07:39:06 PM »
Yup. Nothing sticks to a 12/12.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 17, 2017, 10:44:16 AM »
I really like the green metal. When doing shingle roofing i use old foam couch cushions to keep from damaging the hot shingles. On metal roofing the same foam sticks to the metal. You can get on a steep roof and the foam grips like crazy. I try to plan my trips up steep metal roofing the day after rain so some of the dust is washed off. If i see a couch on the side of the road i stop and grab the cushions if they are foam. Just remove the slip covers. The foam is best when used in pairs. Jump or crawl from one to the other. On hot days it keeps you from getting burned and your shoes from melting and leaving rubber marks.

Hide Site / Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 17, 2017, 10:05:33 AM »
If i remember what he said i think he was crawling over the rafters with his hand on the trigger, a big no no, and he sort of bumped his hand with the gun. The older framing guns had real soft and easily compressed nose safeties. Just hold the trigger and brush it over a surface and a nail fires. Our newer guns have a better spring and a spiked tip so they are harder to fire.

When we have ceiling joists and rafters that are 16? oc it makes it hard to crawl around with a tool belt on. We usually install all the ceiling joists and then the ridge. Then the rafters all get cut. Then the only thing you need to install rafters is the nail gun. I work alone often. Things happen that are unexpected and it is good to be able to get help.
One morning i had to run to a few stores and the bank. When i got to the job all the roofers were sitting on the roof. Their boom lift they used to get on the roof had run out of fuel. They had been sitting there for hours with no way down. It was hot and they were all thirsty. Someone the night before had siphoned the diesel out and they did not know that until it was too late.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 16, 2017, 10:09:12 PM »
If you work alone keep a cell phone on you at all times. I had a call from a guy that had missed his mark with a framing nailer and nailed his hand to a rafter. I had to go over and climb up and use a nail puller to get him free. If he had left his phone any place other than his pocket he would have been hanging there for hours.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 16, 2017, 10:06:26 PM »
I am PICKY about my tool belt. Mine usually die many times before they go into the fire. I just try everything on until i find one with pockets that i can deal with. I would like one of the leather tool vests they have out now but with a back injury that I had fixed i want to keep weight off my spine. Plus in Texas they are probably hot.
For me i need pockets that can be switched from holding framing tools to holding electrical tools. We handle most trades so versatility is key.

Hide Site / Re: Hide site, retirement site.
« on: December 16, 2017, 08:56:35 PM »
Those ladder hooks work great. But, if you ever get in a bind take a page from our company safety manual and use the human ladder. You should see our section on power tools.

Most Favored Companies / Re: McCoys
« on: December 16, 2017, 11:24:22 AM »
Neither Lowes of Home Depot will let me drive my truck right up to the lumber stack to load either. Those stores are geared towards a guy needing 10 studs or one bag of concrete while his wife buys tulips and sniffs the wall paper for off gassing. It takes forever to find someone can drive a forklift also. I could walk right in to my McCoys store and walk out with anything i need without paying. Just a promise to return later to pay and my word and all is good.

Pages: [1] 2 3