Usually the screw will not be sub flush with a mis. If it is a nail then usually the drywall will pop off and expose the loose nail. The real issue is this thing may pull the nails and screws out of the wood.LOL. It is amazing that some magnets can be so strong. There are warnings about placing this magnet near anything like credit cards and pacemakers.
I have two rolling magnets we use to remove roofing nails from job sites after a new roof is installed. We also use them to clean up after a framing job. The first time i thought the magnet was just real heavy but it was magnetized to the rebar in the concrete. I hate moving that magnet in anything but my trailer. I always wondered if it would ruin the trucks computers. One customer with a pacemaker took one look at the magnet and could not leave fast enough.

I have been trying to figure out the best way to move this thread forward. I have gone back and forth. Here is my plan and i will leave it here. If there are no objections and if Don is ok with this format we will proceed. If not we will figure something else out.
I see this thread as a discussion and question and answer area. A place where we all share knowledge and learn from each other. I am planning on learning from the input given to me from you guys. I want to improve my own skillset as well as help others avoid pitfalls i have personally been in. I would like my mistakes pointed out so i can better my work. I am never offended at all especially with constructive criticism.
I do many different trades and jump around from job to job as well as building my own home slowly with my family. If i had a thread for every job or task i think we would be jumping back and forth and something would be lost and it would be confusing for everyone especially me. I am afraid i will have questions asked to me that i overlook. What i am considering is just posting my work here in the hopes that it will start a discussion on every aspect that you guys have interest in. Personally i do not care where the discussion goes based on the jobs we are all doing and the questions we all have. I would like to make it picture heavy. This will take some time on my part to gather images and post when i have wifi or a way to upload quickly.
I am planning on going back to square one with my personal home on here. I have tons of photos. Then just add work that i am doing for customers.
Anyway, what do you guys want to do? Where do we go from here?

Here is a problematic door i did today.

I will get photos tomorrow to help describe what i am doing. This will also show all the issues I had and the solutions i chose to make the doors work and look great. It will not be easy but when i am done no one will ever have any idea of the opening issues. All doors also sit and function perfectly. No automatic openers or closers or doors that move because it is hung wrong.
The variables with hanging a door are limitless. The doors have built in pressure points that can move the entire door one way or another with just some shimming or hinge work. I am finding the companies that hang these doors are letting the pre hung quality really slip. I usually work on every single door i install to make corrections before i ever hang it. At some point I will be forced into slabs and a hinge jig to avoid all these issues.
If anyone ever wants to call me with specific questions pm me and i will give you my number.

In a pinch most chalk lines these days are built to act as a plumb bob. Not as good as an actual plumb bob but pretty accurate.

Will the Dewalt work better impacting bolts on? Maybe it is not as strong in reverse.

Yes, that is how i do it but i will admit it took a few jobs before i started doing that. Let me see if i can find a link to what i use. I bought it at Montopolis supply in Austin TX.
Montopolis is a great company. It is in the center of Austin and heads explode while there. It is an old school company that has been there for decades. It has been swallowed by ultra liberal Austin. There is not a single wall without a sign with a religious saying or scripture quote. Even their receipts contain scripture quotes along with book chapter and verse. People have tried to get these items removed siting offense. They refused. Awesome. I will get some photos of what is left of mine.
http://www.montopolissupply.com/

It goes on every lapping seam on the sheet getting lapped. The tape is used on metal that does not have a second ridge with a channel contained within the ridge. It stops capillary action which could draw water over the ridge high point and into the metal and roof deck surface. Butyl tape or seam tape is not used on sheets that have an inner channel. Some types that do not require butyl tape are five v, rain guard, or channel drain.
With low pitch areas r panel or u panel are best because the ridges stand higher giving you more depth for water to stack before it leaks. The taller the panel ridges the lower the pitch can be.

JR, i think i am turned around. Your home and addition has siding on if i remember correctly. Is the foam going on the inside of the wall under the sheetrock? If so i would face the reflective side out. You will need to make sure the sheetrock screws to wood and not the foam as the screw will be difficult to keep hidden under joint compound. The material would pop off of the head exposing the screw on a finished wall. It is not a hard enough surface between the sheetrock and stud wall.
There are other products that look like reflective foil bubble wrap that might be better suited for an installation between the sheetrock and wood stud. Just make sure that the product you use can be installed in the manner you want to install it.

JR, yes the foil faces out when installed on a wall. Your project is looking great. I do not know the science behind this but would imagine on a roof that the foil facing out would make for a very slippery surface. Years ago, when the manufacturers started adding this shield to roof decks, i read about why the foil faces in on an attic and there was another reason discussed. Now you have me curious also. I will look it up. Great question.

I like those hooks holding your walking planks to the extension ladders. What brand are they and where can I get a set?

I do not know if they outsource the batteries to Ryobi or what. But, every new battery i get from them comes in a box marked Ryobi. I had a Home Depot tool guy and repair guy say that Ryobi bought Ridgid or is in some kind of a partnership. Not sure if that was accurate. If you look at the displays Ryobi has the most shelf space near the entry to the tool aisle in all the Home Depots around here.

I have many Ridgid tools. I prefer them and Dewalt. What is the deciding factor for me is how it feels. I need to be able to handle it all day and grab for it without looking. It also needs to have few or no safety switches. In the trades the tool must be able to run with only one hand. For example, circular saws need to be operated with one hand in awkward positions. Some homeowner tools require two hands to engage the tool which will not work when used daily for years.
I bought my first Ridgid 24 V kit back in 05. I have literally used the kit at least five days a week since then. Some days they never shut off. I have had them so hot they have caught on fire in my hand.
The warranties must be filed when the tool is purchased. I have an account and keep a computer file with them and a paper file with me in the truck. I have had the 24V batteries replaced eight times now. I use to have to take them to a service center and now they handle that in the tool rental departments. Tools are tested there but sent off for repair or replacement. I have had the hammer drill rebuilt five times. I have framed many many homes with the circular saw. I always have an electric backup in the truck but prefer the battery saw for maneuverability and weight. My kit includes the sawzall, circular saw, flashlight, hammer drill, battery charger, and two batteries all in a bag.
The bad side is they no longer make 24V stuff, because customers complained about the weight, so this last year my drill was replaced with the “ upgraded” 18 volt. It is a disappointment and not as tough as the dewalt 20V which is really an 18V. It just spikes to 20v at startup then runs at 18v. But, when they replace the tool, since they go from 24v to 18v, they also give you two batteries and a charger with it. So now i have their 20 and 18 volt stuff based on the first 05 purchase. When the 24 v batteries get replaced they come in packaging from Ryobi.
I am picky with my tools and take care of them. But they work hard and i never leave them at home. I have had Ridgid lose my warranty information before. They are always trying to make it difficult to get them fixed or replaced and it takes about six weeks in total. But, they always end up doing the exchange or replacement or repair. I plan to see how long this will keep going.

I thought i would take a second to write about a couple of items that would be helpful to those doing construction. Recently we got a job to help finish a home another builder had started and semi abandoned. The home is about 6000 ft and custom. I had forgotten how helpful a couple of my tricks are that this home does not have.
1) BEFORE sheetrock go around each wall and make a pencil/sharpie mark on the floor to show all hazards. Then mark each and every stud. If the home is going to have stained concrete where marks can not be made do them in such a way that the trim will hide them. This makes installing cabinets and trim MUCH faster and easier. There is no guessing where studs are and no damage to wiring or plumbing. After sheetrock/tape/float/and paint transfer the marks to the wall but under where the trim will be. If the room gets carpet just leave them on the floor. This makes doing trim exponentially faster and the trim holds better when nailed to the studs. This particular home has 5/8” sheetrock on all walls and most are insulated. This makes the use of a stud finder more difficult and inaccurate. Right before insulation and sheetrock video tape the entire home. This along with your marks will help locate any boxes that the sheet rockers fail to cut out when hanging the drywall. 
2) Do not use compression type shutoff valves for plumbing fixtures. If the stub outs are too short and a valve needs to be replaced you will be doing demo of the cabinet or wall to get to the pipe to add another valve. Once a compression ring is pressed on it will no longer slide off the pipe. What i do is use 1/2” male adaptors soldered on. This makes it easy to install a brass cap to pressure test then just screw on the valve after walls are painted. If it ever fails just unscrew it and add another. 

Yup. Nothing sticks to a 12/12.

If i remember what he said i think he was crawling over the rafters with his hand on the trigger, a big no no, and he sort of bumped his hand with the gun. The older framing guns had real soft and easily compressed nose safeties. Just hold the trigger and brush it over a surface and a nail fires. Our newer guns have a better spring and a spiked tip so they are harder to fire.

When we have ceiling joists and rafters that are 16” oc it makes it hard to crawl around with a tool belt on. We usually install all the ceiling joists and then the ridge. Then the rafters all get cut. Then the only thing you need to install rafters is the nail gun. I work alone often. Things happen that are unexpected and it is good to be able to get help.
One morning i had to run to a few stores and the bank. When i got to the job all the roofers were sitting on the roof. Their boom lift they used to get on the roof had run out of fuel. They had been sitting there for hours with no way down. It was hot and they were all thirsty. Someone the night before had siphoned the diesel out and they did not know that until it was too late.

I am PICKY about my tool belt. Mine usually die many times before they go into the fire. I just try everything on until i find one with pockets that i can deal with. I would like one of the leather tool vests they have out now but with a back injury that I had fixed i want to keep weight off my spine. Plus in Texas they are probably hot.
For me i need pockets that can be switched from holding framing tools to holding electrical tools. We handle most trades so versatility is key.

Neither Lowes of Home Depot will let me drive my truck right up to the lumber stack to load either. Those stores are geared towards a guy needing 10 studs or one bag of concrete while his wife buys tulips and sniffs the wall paper for off gassing. It takes forever to find someone can drive a forklift also. I could walk right in to my McCoys store and walk out with anything i need without paying. Just a promise to return later to pay and my word and all is good.

Years ago we were at a bank function with McCoys. The McCoy family owned Balcones Bank where i was getting construction loans. There was a little old man there who I knew. He was surrounded by lawyers in thousand dollar suits. He knew every one on the bank board of directors. He pulled up in an old ranch truck wearing ranching clothes. You would have thought he did not have anything. He would have given you the shirt off his back and had been known to help many people without them even knowing it was him. He was not flashy or proud. That man was Emmit McCoy. The founder of McCoys. Brian McCoy is the CEO now and does the same things for the community and people in need.

This company is a Texas based lumber company that is family owned. I do as much business with them as i can. They are closed on Sundays. Their posted hours say “closed Sundays to build family values”. They are the largest financial contributors to PAWS animal shelter. They are also the largest privately owned business financial contributor to Texas State University.
A few years ago i was at HomeDepot. The store manager and i were talking. He wanted to bid some projects we had. The lumber drops were about $70,000. I said no. He asked why and i told him i use McCoys. He pushed to get me a quote and continued to praise his store. I said ok on one condition. The condition was to deliver me one 2X4 today and while delivering the stud i would give him the materials lists for the three homes. He could not do it. He tried to get me to take the lumber with me. I reminded him that was not the point. They do not have anything in place to do anything that small that quickly. I informed him that McCoys could and has in the past and that is the kind of service i need. This conversation was following a nightmare situation where they had failed to bring a load of windows and they were a month late. One Friday the load was coming out but their drivers had just hit 40 hours so they turned around mid way and headed back to the store with my load.

I like putting 7/16” osb or plywood on before installing 4’X8’ hardi soffit on porches. This reinforces the porch ceiling. Many porches have access to the attic. A thief can take a small hammer or even just his hands and be in most attics in no time as the hardi is very easy to get through. Once in the attic he can drop into most rooms, right through the sheetrock, without motion detectors. He has also bypassed alarm sensors on windows and doors. Even bypassed glass break sensors.
This task does not make the surface too thick for can lights either.

Add lots of attic lights. You will appreciate being able to see and if a light goes out while working, the others will allow you to see well enough to get out. Plus it is just hard to work in an attic in awkward positions that are poorly lit.

Ditch tilt sash windows with plastic/vinyl latch pieces. Had one break in where the thief melted the window tilt sash catch with a map gas torch. The small unit that is used to solder copper. He did this from the outside through the glass. Tilted window in quietly and was in the house.

Ditch french doors or rework the fixed side security pins. The regular use side can be pushed in on the top knob corner and bottom knob corner then a screwdriver is used to pull the catches from their slots and the door opens with the lock still locked. Pins must be added inside where flexing the door can not allow a screwdriver to reach them.

Hidden compartments in cabinets.

Copper is great. We still use it at the customers request. The issue is with its quality. It is not like it use to be. It is thinner than the stuff from 20 years ago. It has also gotten very expensive. I find that i have to shape it to get it round again.
One good quality that is rarely talked about with copper is that the fittings go on the outside of the pipe. This allows for greater flow than any of the pex fittings i have seen which go in the pipe and choke flow.
Just make sure it does not touch different metals especially galvanized pipe. Also make sure it does not contact any rebar in the slab. When we run copper in concrete i use utility sleeve to protect it. It is the heavy low pressure black stuff you see run on ranches for troughs and drip irrigation systems and such. No rebar can reach it now and it is safe from the concrete and rebar guys. Then if it pops a leak you can see which conduit it is in and pull another piece of copper through.
We had one house with a metal roof get hit by lightning. It actually caused the solder joints to start leaking. Almost as if the solder melted. I have always wondered exactly what happened before it failed. But, lightning messes stuff up and pex would be damaged as well.  It was just an odd situation.
I use sharkbite o ring fittings for emergency repair work. The type of repair where i do not have my tools and need the water on right away. I come back and remove the sharkbite and pinch another pipe or fitting in.
Thinking about it i can remember why i switched to pex. No salvage value. I had two spec homes going in in New Braunfels and there was a crime wave. This was in 05 ish. The thieves would rip the copper out the night after it was installed. Right before rebar went in. I had to switch to pex so they would leave it alone. The black utility sleeve may have hid it but i could not risk it.

I found a good chart on the pex universe website describing the three different types. From the look of it i am using type b and should keep doing so.

I am going to go through the steps i use to set doors. This is very hard to teach someone without being with them. There are many steps which are hard to put into words. I will do my best to walk everyone through it. Please ask for clarification if needed.
I can not even begin to describe the pain i feel when i see a door thrown in with no care or concern for looks and function. Sometimes they are in so poorly that they do not even latch. Or so out of wack that the knob and lock are hard to use and snag.
Most of my doors are installed into a hole I framed. Having a properly sized hole and a level/plumb/square hole makes hanging a door much easier. On my current home i am framing it with my daughter. We did the whole frame just the two of us and my wife which included hanging all the beams. I was under no time constraint or budget on the framing so i opted to make my threshold for acceptability be 0-1/8” on everything. I did this because i wanted her to see the correct math and how to apply it. I used ratchet straps and come alongs to hold my walls exactly where i wanted them. This will make installing doors easy.
When you rough in a door (i will assume a 3’0” door for these purposes) you go 2” over the door size. So the rough in width is 3’ 2” or 38”. A 6’ patio door would be 6’2” wide or 74”. I have had some framers go 2 1/2” over because the holes are not square. This leaves a more difficult job as now you have to downsize the hole to center the door.
When i approach an install i check everything about the opening. Use the longest level you can fit. Some doors have bows in the frame that are not easily worked out with short levels. I prefer a 6’ level especially on 8’ doors but a 4’ is fine for setting doors. I check all four ends. If the floor is not level i must know so the reveal on the top is good and the threshold works. I check wall lean. If it leans in the door will want to open and stay partially open. If the wall leans back the door will want to either fully open or fully close. On interior doors there is no threshold but there is a reveal on the top that must be taken in to account. For today i will explain how to install an exterior door.
So i check the floor. The hinge side must be set up with a level floor or the hinge side must be the high side. If it is the low side raise it now before attaching the hinges. This is where most people mess up and by the time they realize it the door is done and they must start over. I set doors with two people for speed and less complexity.
I dry fit the door to get a general idea of what is needed. Then i remove the door and silicone the threshold to the floor.  Do not use liquid nails or any other adhesive that makes it hard or impossible to remove it later. Silicone is pliable once cured. Place a level on the frame hinge side and starting at the top install a 3” screw. This holds the door in place now. Check all door to frame gaps now. If they are close proceed. Add one screw near the hinge on the outside for the second and third hinge. Now raise the knob side if needed to properly gap the top between the door and frame. Hold the frame in position on the wall and put one screw on the top corner side outside first. Then make sure the door properly touches the exterior door frame gasket and attach the remaining two exterior screws. Check door for function and clearance now.
There are five wedge points on a hinge side. These five points can be used to move and adjust a door. They are top corner, hinge one, hinge two, hinge three, and threshold. 
Top corner: use this to pull or push the top.
Hinges all three: these can be wedged to push a door towards the knob side or a screw can be added in place of a hinge screw to pull the door over.
Threshold: you can shim one end or the other to adjust reveals here. Most thresholds are made with a sweep adjustment. Once the door is fully set remove the covers and expose the adjustment screw. This raises or lowers the top of the threshold. Ideally you want the sweep to contact the threshold in such a way as to get a good seal. Too loose and air and insects get in. Too tight and the door is hard to swing and the threshold will prematurely wear out.
A shim placed anywhere else on the hinge side only serves to move the immediate area.
I always remove at least one screw per hinge. I remove the one with the most grab on a stud and replace it with a like colored 3”-4” screw for strength.
On the knob side any shimming only acts locally unless at the top or bottom corner where the threshold or top can force the door to move.
If i like the door i then finish fastening the knob side. I use three more 3” screws mirroring the ones used outside. Use shims to keep the screws from pulling the door and opening up the reveal.
I have seen many improperly installed dead bolts. I like to use screws to grab framing so the door is secure. The rod that extends from the lock must click and lock down. If the hole is too shallow the rod does not lock in the proper position and a flat tool can walk it back in and unlock the door.
I am a fan of jigs. I have jigs for everything. On my doors i use a 1/2” thick jig to simulate sheetrock thickness. This will place my frame into the room in the proper position for sheetrock.
Patio doors and french doors use the same techniques to install. They just have an extra hinge side to adjust. I have stopped installing french doors on my personal homes.  They are not secure as shipped. You can press the door at the top and bottom on the knob side to reveal the keeper of the fixed side. A screw driver then lifts the stops and the door swings in with the deadbolt still in the locked position. Two of my homes have been broken into this way. We ended up putting floor pins in to keep this from happening.  I also like to install reinforcement in the form of metal straps placed between the frame and wall or placed on the outside of the stud under the sheetrock. Anything added to make it take longer to kick in is a good thing. It buys you more time to prepare for an intruder.
It is important to make sure the door works with flooring and is not a trip hazard so sill plates are removed before doors go in.
I know i have probably left more questions than i answered. The variables are many when setting doors and you just take your time and work through them. So please if anyone wants to add anything please do. If there are questions or if clarification is needed please ask.
Here is a photo of my rear door installed. There is a strap near the lock to help make it a bit more secure. The lock is only the construction lock.

Is your leak coming from the bath spout? Or other pipes? If it is the bath spout thread sealant gets left off often because that junction does not have much pressure since the water spills into the tub at a much lower pressure than what is in the pipes with the valves closed. I prefer sealant all the time because even though it will not be a huge leak it will be a small leak. If the nipple runs slightly downhill the leaking water leaves the spout at the weep hole. If it runs uphill the leak goes behind the wall.
I am assuming it is the nipple for the tub spout. Use the existing nipple for a length guide. You may be able to find a plastic male nipple that would work. You could use schedule 40 pvc or 80 pvc or cpvc and thread your own nipple. You do not want to screw a metal male into a plastic female part. It cracks the fitting over time. Male is always plastic and female is always metal unless both are either plastic or metal. Plastic can go into plastic. Metal can go into metal. Metal can not go into plastic. One exception is certain bushings but the other rule stands as a general guide. You might have a leak where the galvanized pipe broke the cpvc female elbow. All that is a very easy fix.