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Author Topic: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]  (Read 40045 times)

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Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #50 on: September 26, 2014, 11:13:52 AM »
Today I had the pressure sensors moved from the factory wheels into my new Pro Comp wheels
I also had the front end aligned after the tie rod sleeve installation last night
Here's a couple shots of the tire pressure sensors which the technician is mounting.
Sorry, these are lower quality I-Phone pics



Here's a shot of the actual sensor

Then when he tried to balance the tire once again, this is what we saw!!!!!!!!!!

OK, that's WAAAAYYY too much weight and the runout was getting to be excessive. That little clue led to a discovery.
Pay close attention to how well the wheel is actually centered on the mandrel of the balancer. The tech played with it and found a tighter fitting centering collar and spun it all up again.
This was the result of the second attempt:

With that issue solved, the rest of the balancing went just fine

Next, on to alignment
I was surprised to find I had set everything pretty close, only the right wheel was out slightly

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:06:09 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #51 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:05 AM »
Here's another not quite mod, but good idea (I think) that I have incorporated into the trucks DNA


Quote:
Originally Posted by ***********
"What type of interior shotgun mount are you looking at? Not sure if you want one that is easily accessible or one that is just a good mount. I bought an under seat box by DU-HA. Best interior box I have found. Has a shotgun rack in it and compartments for other items. It is color matched to the interior and fits perfectly under the rear seat. I also add a high tension rubber bungee cord from the back and around the seat belt mounts and to the box again to ensure that it does not move a bit. Worked perfectly and nobody see's the box with the seat down".


I like a mount I had in the aircraft I was flying in Baghdad. It had a tube in which the muzzle rested then a spring loaded "clip" affair that securely grasped the culinder adjoining the butt stock on the M4 Carbine I carried.

You'll have to look really hard, but you can make it out in the lower corner of the front door opening. Sorry, but those are the best shots I have from back then. Anyway, you can see the weapon is held securely at the ready. I want to carry my shotgun the same way. The area under the seat is for the recovery kit, and things like that


 Quote: "saw in your list you wanted a spray in liner. Check out raptor liner - I've got a feeling it's right down your alley"
That is one excellent suggestion! One cup of coffee for you, on me!

Back to the shotgun question, I want it to secure my modified Saiga 12. The poly choke would fit into a tube. say 2" deep. Then a rubber coated grip mechanism would hold the back of the weapon securely. Just in case those killer squirrels come around, I'd like to be ready!

The Saiga is a great shotgun if you get it modified. Out of the box, they are tempramental. I had Cadiz Gun Works build mine, Tom Cole was an armorer for BlackWater and really hnows his Saigas. I had both a right and a left bolt lever installed, so my gun would work for you. It is not cheap, but mine will hit a 8" pie plate at 150 yards with a 1 oz. rifled slug. I built the gun as an evasion gun for my old work. If you get your helo shot out from underneath you, my thought was to get into a compound ricky-tick. A shotgun will get through most door hinges and make short work of any uninvited guests. Mine never jams and will run anything I can shove into the 10 round magazine or the 20 round drum.
I'd recommend the gun, but take a look at the Kel-Tec as well. For years I used a pump because it always works, the Kel Tec has an interesting design that is a full on combat gun. If it's bird hunting you're in to, bypass it...

This pic shows the charging handle on the other side of the Saiga. Compare it to the earlier shot.

OK, nuff on guns, dis be a truck thread!
I have a major order inbound at the moment, gonna be some big changes coming up on the horizon! I will post parts pics when the stuff actually gets here...

I wanted to show what you get when you order the one gallon kit from Opti-Lube. The Fedex guy just delivered this to my door.
It's enough of the stuff to treat 500 gallons of fuel and will get the scar rating under that all important 460 number Bosch recommends for our engines. Wanna own your motor a long time with tree hugger fuel??? Get this stuff or something like it!


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:14:10 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #52 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:16 AM »
The next batch of parts has begun to trickle in. Today Mr. UPS delivered a very heavy box from Randy's Ring and pinion. THose helpful folks were able to source everything I will need to upgrade both the performance and mileage through the 4.45 ratio change, and give me the ultimate in traction through front and rear lockers.
Here's the Grizzly rear locker:


This thing is massive! It looks like it came out of the final drive of an Abrams tank! It is honestly scales over what I am used to dealing with. Take a look at the flange that the ring gear mounts to! Examining the exterior, I notice 4 shafts that would normally mount the spider gears, but I'm not sure what's inside this well packaged beast. I am sort of wanting to tear into this thing to see what's inside! But curosity did, in fact, kill the cat, so maybe I'll just leave well enough alone. Frankly the longer it sits here, the harder it will be for me to resist!
Here's some more close up shots showing the construction and the sheer size of this thing!


Time to add another page or two.
Today, the UPS man has been very busy!
We'll call the next number of postings, "Parts is Parts!"
I just received the last of the parts necessary for the 4.56 gear install. I am however still waiting for 36mm thin wall 12 point deep well and a standard length 36mm socket to arrive. Also due in is a SWAG Off Road set of press Arbor plates I need to press the bearings onto the differentials.
I am going to replace everything in both differentials with aftermarket parts changing the gear ratio and adding locking differentials to both ends. I will also be using all new bearings and seals. The factory axles, however will remain as they are super strong and I've already paid for them.
Here's today's collection of boxes:


Talking with Tate out in Everett, Wa. at Randy's Ring and Pinion's main activity, he suggested I read this book they put out which has a wealth of information. I plan to do so, as I will install the rear diff and gears myself.

I have already shown pictures of that massive grizzly rear locker, well here are the massive gears which will soon turn it all. I don't think you can get a true appreciation for how large this stuff really is until you see it first hand. Holding it in my hand you might better understand that if you knew how big I AM! THat's the hand of a guy who is 6'3" and goes 245 on a good day. The size of these gears telegraph just how much over built our trucks really are!






« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:21:29 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #53 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:27 AM »
The install kit is pretty complete. I see everything in there except for the ring gear bolts which I will reuse from the stocker diff and ring gear. Just look at the size (diameter) of those carrier bearings. THat's a lot of torque accomodation you're looking at!



Next is the front ring and pinion gear set. At 9.25" they are as strong as the gears found in the rear diff of a Dodge 1/2 ton truck!



Here's a couple more views

Here's the master install kit for the front. Very complete as well!

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:27:03 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #54 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:36 AM »
Here's the Eaton front electric locker. Unlike a conventional locker, this device is either fully unlocked in the stock like off or open position, or fully locked like a spool in the magnetized locked position. There is no differentiation what so ever, so traction will be maximized and the ability to turn will be neutralized! But if you're stuck, a simple push of the magic button will get you right out, or else you're going to need one of my buddies who fly Chinooks!





Showing the all important electro-magnetic appratus that will make me berry, berry happy when crawling out of a mud hole (as if I am ever going to get this thing dirty!)
Actually being a guy from the country, regretfully, I am not very smart and subject to drive over trees, through fences, over small foreign cars and into water where I can't see the bottom, yea, ask me about that one!



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:30:07 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #55 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:48 AM »
While I'm anxiously awaiting the rest of the tools to come in that I need for the gear change, I thought I'd switch out the S&B air filter. THey make a nifty paper long life unit and a filter wrap, sort of a prefilter screen thing.
Here's a view of the current oiled cloth filter which has worked quite qell up to this point.


Here is the paper filter I will be installing next


Here's a good side by side comparo


...and with the filter wrap fitted


Here's the new filter installed


And the "new" spare.
I figure I'll swap out this unit in a year or so or if it gets damaged or really dirty.
This S&B product is some seriously good stuff!

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:33:37 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #56 on: September 26, 2014, 11:14:56 AM »
Quote:
"Originally Posted by *******
Just curious, why did you decide to go with the paper filter for your s&b?"

...trying out different products.
This one increases air flow something like 46% over stock, is replaceable (ie throw away) and no oil. Not that the oiled cloth S&B gave me any trouble, but in an earlier life in a galaxy far, far away, I had a K&N oiled cloth filter mess up a MAF sensor. THis eliminates all possibility of that happening.

......I just made a huge mistake.
I just checked out ProFabPerformance...
those headers and pipes are killer
I can see a large capital expenditure now in the not-too-distant future.
I was going to wait on the turbo for some time. but after seeing those manifolds and EGR delete and 2 1/4" up pipes... I'm gonna need those. No, not want, I NEED them!
Suddenly I feel like something is wrong with my manifolds, and I need to get them off before they damage something... Yea, that's it, the stockers are doing physical harm to the motor and causing the turbo to fail early, like as in later this summer. Man, I better get on the ball and get that stuff coming this way before something serious happens...What, doesn't sound believable??? She's blonde!


......Getting ready to do the rear ring and pinion install.
I needed some tools to get the job done correctly. I ordered some Press Arbor plates from Swag Off Road up there in the upper left corner somewhere, and some special sockets from Grainger.
Here's the press plates, you have to see this:
Check out the size of these things! I think the battleship New Jersey had to sacrifice the bow section to get enough steel to make these!


No, I mean. like really look. Remember I have big hands
These plates are 1.5" thick!
I plan to use them on my 30 ton press in lieu of the cheapo junk I used to have. That cast junk will be sold to recast into cheap Korean cars!


The side bearings of the AAM 11.5 are adjustable just like the old 14 bolt and the Ford 9", however, comma, I guess the spanner wrench adjustable collars of yesteryear was too simple, so the engineers changed it. Now you have to thread a 36mm thin wall socket into the side and crank away. Yup, you guessed it, 36mm thin wall sockets are neither abundant nor inexpensive! I bit the bullet and purchased a deep well and a regular 12 point just in case.


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:38:58 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #57 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:09 AM »
OK, here we go again
This time I will be installing 4.56 gears and a Grizzly locker into the rear AAM11.5 axle.
My Friend Duane helped me today get the teardown, source parts, eat sandwiches and do a lot of nugg work. Since he is a Black Hawk pilot he is uniquely suited to manual labor!
We started with draining the fluid, then pulling the axles.



Next I pulled the driveshaft

And then the rear cover

So far so good. I marked one of the caps, made notes of their orientation, then loosened the collars on either side with a 1/4" punch.
Then we unbolted the cap bolts and wrestled the carrier out of there

The next step is not for the faint of heart. I unbolted the Pinion yoke nut which is a 36mm 12 pt mugo nut held on with kryptonite, loosening it until it was even with the end of the pinion gear, and using a 32oz hammer literally beat the thing out of the case to the inside. You will not believe how tightly the yoke is held to the pinion splines with some special adhesive which comes from the earth's core. All I can say, is you will not like doing this part...

We cleande the case out which was pretty clean to begin with and moved on to reassembly.
I thought the shims for the pinion depth fitted behind the pinion bearing race. THerefore I pressed the new bearing onto the pinion gear on my press using the new Swag arbor plates, which also came from the earth's core.
I hadn't learned the bad news yet, so all this was just really a rehersal for later!!!!!!!!!


Next I pressed the bearings onto the grizzly locker differential. first one side, then the other.


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:42:25 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #58 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:19 AM »
Next after removing the 12 9/16" bolts from the factory ring gear. I cleaned them and threaded them into the new ring gear. It literally just popped into place. The bolts were torqued to 175 ft/lbs

Here's a look at the assembled differential assembly ready for service in my truck or a D-9 catapillar! THis thing is huge, heavy, strong and uber kool!!!!!


Then we removed the rear larger pinion gear race expecting to find the shims.
Well using a brass drift, it came right out but had no shims behind it??? What, no shims???
Quick call to Tate over at Randy's Ring and Pinion. Ah, did I check behind the factory pinion and look for shims??? Well, not exactly, but, hey let me take a look. Yup, there's a shim in there. Oh, I have to pull the new freshly pressed on bearing back off, OK, no worries...
Hey, Duane, I don't own a bearing puller like that. Hmmm, Harbor freight have one? Yep, after a call we found out they had an assortment. So I bought all of them, discovering the mugo uber large one on steroids barely fit. Did I mention everything on this truck is really big??
So I get some more practice on the press taking it all apart again!
Note to self: Pay attention and check to see what size shims came with the kit!



So, another call to Tate, #4 for the day I believe, (Thanks Tate) and I came up with game plan #2.
Take the old bearing off the old pinion and hone out the inside enough so that it just slips on and off the pinion, then I can do the various changes mo-quicklier.


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:44:22 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #59 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:29 AM »
If I'm reading the material correctly you set up a diff in steps. First you set the pinion depth looking for the correct gear pattern. Next you set pinion preload. Next you set carrier backlash, then check it all and torque it again and cover and fill. I hope I didn't miss anything, but that's basically it
To set up pinion depth, the book says to simply put the factory shim onto your new pinion and run a pattern. Tate suggested I start with a .035 shim since the smaller 4.56 gear needs to seat deeper into the gear than the old 3.73, larger gear.
I pulled out a .050 shim from the factory pinion. so I decided to add .015 to that and start with a total of .065 shim to run my first pattern.

Here's one more look at the diff. Next time you see it it should be sitting neatly in the housing lookin spiffy
That's all for gear change day 1, time for some pizza ops...

Today was a long one.
I wanted to get this thing done but I kept having problems with getting a good pattern on the gears. Here's what I started with this morning. You can see the drive part of the tooth is well to the inside which isn't bad, but there is only a line indicating only the edge of the gear is actually touching. Same thing on the coast side except it is at least centered. This, BTW is garbage for a pattern. I was using the factory .050 shim


A quick call to Tate over at Randy's Ring and Pinion and after emailing him these pics, he noted the gear is too deep and I need to back off the shims some. So I pulled the pinion bearing and reduced the shim pack to .035"

Hmmm, same strange mark, and another bout of garbage!


The diff was not spinning as freely as I wanted it to and the gears were making a clacking noise.
Also the bearing pressing got to be a real problem so I pulled the old bearings and relieved their inside diameter so they could be installed by hand instead of using my press

Everything else was working fine. Back Lash was easy to set at the recommended .005-.007"

Another call to Tate, and this time he suggested I pull out all the shims and try it there. Here's what I got:

This still isn't good!


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:48:36 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #60 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:38 AM »
At this point I had repeated this assembly/dissembly exercise many times and it was getting late. That's when something cool happened.
Tate had gone home and I thought I was out of tech support. Out of the blue, Dale Coulson, a Randy's tech guy calls me. He says something is wrong and do not install the gears as is. He suggested I measure everything so I did. I pulled everything apart and miked everything. We compared my findings with the engineering spec, and sure enough everything was up to snuff, all the new parts checked out.
Dale then suggested the pinion bearing race might not be seated all the way.
Hmmm, I did punch that thing out, then decided to reuse the old bearing for setup and checking, so I hac reinstalled the race. THe thing is, I had just punched it back out in preparation to install the new race. So I installed the new race, and I noticed it sank much deeper into the housing!
Bingo!
THat was it all along! Good news was I knew what the problem was. THe bad news was that I was back to square 1!!!
Hey, I'm not going to let this thing beat me down, so I started all over again, this time with a .020 shim and pulled a pattern. Here's what I saw:


OK, now I was getting somewhere. THat is a normal pattern for a gear too far away from the ring gear. Definate movement in the right direction, but requiring more adjustment.
I tore the thing down again and added shims uo to .030
Here's what that did:


Definately moving in the right direction (finally)
THis pattern in my opinion is still not deep enough so since I had added .010" last time and got that much movement, I decided to all another .010, totalling .055" which is actually just .005" more than the factory had in there to begin with.
Here's the result which I think is OK. I am awaiting Dale and Tate's opinion which will have to be tomorrow morning since everyone is done working except for me!
If this is it, then in a couple hours tomorrow, I will finish this and claim victory over self installed gears and the locker!


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:49:59 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #61 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:47 AM »
Today, I finished the 4.56 gear install inthe rear axle!
After some emails to Tate and Dale, everyone was happy with the pattern so it was finally time to assemble it for the last time.
I started by removing the diff and the pinion gear for one final time. THen I cleaned the housing and painted the surfaces around the area I had been working in with John Deere black, a high quality enamel paint.
I paid particuliar attention to the parts shielded by the seal and diff cover in the back. I want to prevent rust from starting and causing a mess in the future


I then installed a new front seal, scrapped the housing clean of the old paper gasket, and thourghly cleaned the inside one more time.

I checked the shim pack one more time, then pressed on the new bearing and slid the crush sleeve into place on the pinion all prior to installing it in the housing for the last time


Take a look at the swipe pattern on the pinion gear teeth. That looks really pretty. A good long contact over much of the tooth...strong!

With the pinion in, I installed the yoke and tightened forever until I achieved the proper preload. I must self confess here that the first time I did it, I forgot the washer beneath that huge 36mm nut and the darned thing wouldn't tighten properly and still yield the proper preload. But, I discovered my error, removed the nut, added the washer then tightened the thing up to a near perfect preload
I also painted that rusty harmonic balancer/yoke thing while it was off.

Then the driveshaft

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:52:07 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #62 on: September 26, 2014, 11:15:53 AM »
I actually got things out of order here, before the driveshaft, I installed and set back lash on the carrier, the grizzly locker at .006"

Next, I slid the axles home and bolted them back on. Finally, there was only the rear cover which I set in place over a bead of RTV Black and tightened the bolts. I filled it with 4 qts. of Valvoline 75W-90 synthetic

Both Dale and Tate were adamant about going through a proper break-in procedure, so my initial test drive was over to a nearby grocery store for some shopping.
The abundance of torque was immediately obvious. I was just babying it as per the instructions, but the power is definately there. The gears aren't making any noise and the locker is really smooth. I have driven a detroit locker, a lock rite and that other mini locker before. With those you had to be on your toes. If you mashed the throttle in a turn, Mr. Locker siad, "screw it, we're going straight!" Not this Grizzly. I couldn't even tell when it was locking or releasing except for the slightest of a "tug" when I'd let off it or step back on the acclerator. Could that be gear back lash instead??
If it remains this smooth, coupled with it's gorillia strength and no compromise traction, this diff will prove to be the go to traction device. It must be as close to indestructable as a differential can be! So far, 2 whole drives, 15 miles total, I LOVE it!

......Good news and bad news, although not that bad
First, I have been doing short trips to warm up the diff, then allowing the truck to cool off completely as a part of the break in process. I just started driving it again on the highway for any distance at all. I was curious about the combined mileage for the little bit of town and country combined with the highway mileage, so I zeroed out the mileage setting and started anew. Right before I did the gear change, the larger tires had pulled the 18.9, stock tire mileage down to the low 16's.
Driving this morning all over heck's half acre, arriving in the driveway afterward, the mileage computer showed just under 21 MPG!!!!!!
Now remember actual mileage with the stock gear and tire was 18.9 combined. The large tire which made the speedo run slower pulled it down to around 16. Given the little bit it was running underspeed, I estimate low 16's consistiently for the lugging engine with the big tire and 3.73.
With the 4.56, I am now cruising with traffic at 1900-2000 RPM and this engine with it's current tune obviously loves it. If the speedo is running 10% over then that means the truck is getting 18.72 MPG with a 4.56 gear and a tall tire! Don't know about you, but me thinks that is pretty darn good. Now imagine how it will be with a couple ten thousand miles on it and all broken in and sporting H20 injection! I may be knocking on the door of the low 20's. It's certainly within the relm of being possible.
After that, the bad news, a seeping pinion seal which I plan to replace tomorrow is small potatoes indeed!

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:54:49 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #63 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:02 AM »
Today was a "Chores" day on the truck. There was starting to be a few things that needed to get tweaked or finished, so I took the day to work off the list.
First, I was not satisified with the total number of hangars on the MBRP exhaust. I felt like I could really use one more near the outlet of the muffler. Really, MBRP supplies enough to get the job done, but if you really slammed it around it will move some and that is putting stress on the joint and the down pipe, two things I don't want any problem out of.
So, I fashioned up a new mount using another stock rubber isolator. If I just welded a hangar to the exhaust it would start to become problematic getting the exhaust off at some future date. So I made an adjustable mount that cinches down tightly then releases again with the turn of either of two 3/8" bolts. Here's what I started with:

An upper hangar and a lower mount slip into the 1/2" square tubing and are held in place by 3/8" "pinch" bolts

Here's the other mount welded to the muffler outlet and coated with zinc

...and the whole mount assembled and installed


While I was under there and toying with the exhaust, I removed the rust-o-matic hangar, wirebrushed it, coated it with zinc then painted and reinstalled it. I also sprayed all the other welds on the MBRB exhaust which had started to show scale rust. Welders zinc is a great self-sacrificing product that will keep you runt free.


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:57:22 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #64 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:16 AM »
Exhaust all done and more snug than ever before it was on to the fuel system. When I installed the Air Dog and sump, I did not reinstall the fuel tank skid plate.
II cut a relief in the bottom of the skid plate, missing slightly on the first attempt, but nailing it on the second.

The cover went right on with a minimum of effort and bolted right back up. I relief cut the base below the fuel line so that it would still provide protection, however bend just enough to accomodate the fitting.


Next, I reinstalled the transfer case skid plate. I never liked the way it stuck downward at a slight angle, so I bent it up and closer to the case to get that all important ground clearance

Here, I show how neatly the fuel supply line tucked into the skip plate install

The last thing on the schedule to get done today was to install the correct Air Dog fuel return adapter. Up to now I had used my homemade fabbed part which worked flawlessly (as far as I know). THe change was a simple 10 minute job. THe AD lines are easy to disconnect by pushing in on the tabs and pulling apart...nice!


« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:30:50 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #65 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:27 AM »
OK, lets get going again. Today was day 1 of the front Eaton E-locker and Yukon 4.56 gear install.
The first thing I had to do was to install the wiring harness, switch and relay.
After searching and pulling the panels off the interior I finally decided the only real area remaining that is not close clearance, hard to get to, or choked with wire was in the overhead console


The top stuff had to be partially removed as well as the pillar to make room to pull wires


Here's the lighted switch that controls the locker

The overhead console actually is set up for additional switches as evidenced by the casting. The area inside those protrusions are exactly the right size for this switch.
I drilled a series of holes and cut out the opening


With the hole opened up just large enough, I pulled the wires and drilled a hole in a support panel on the roof to screw the ground wire into.


Here's the panel reinstalled and hooked up

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:33:59 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #66 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:35 AM »
After sorting out the wires and making the required connections, I ran the two diff control wires through the firewall and routed the harness to where it will soon connect to the electric diff



...All done with the switch and harness install...



Loaded up with goodies and ready to visit Mr. Chevrolet to make the boxes disappear!

« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 10:35:20 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #67 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:47 AM »
As per Randy's RIng and Pinion's recommendations, the break-in process requires a fluid change at 500 miles. That will come up in the next few days or so.
I thought I'd make an improvement with the rear diff cover. I had several choices here. I could go with a chrome thing but that would be, frankly hideous! And it would make no useful contribution to the vehicle's prowess. (big word there for an Army Pilot!)
A common change people go for is to the aluminum finned covers that provide additional cooling and increased capacity. You do not, however, see those kinds of covers on true off road vehicles, and there's a real and practical reason for that...they break!
So, considering the purpose for my truck which is a driver, occasional off roader, but with a strong over tones of wanting to be a "doomsday, survivalist" vehicle I went with a cover that can take a lickin' and keep on tickin'
I called Shawn, the owner of Great Lakes Off road inc. and talked to him about his excellent covers. THey are by test, actually bullet proof, no really!
He has an AAM 11.5 cover which is all that and more. It's so strong that he warrantes it for it's life!
He starts with a laser cut 1/2" thick gasket ring and forms and welds a 1/4" plate steel cover to it. It is super trick and it retails for an amazing $110!
Yea, that's $110, not $279 or whatever those pretty covers go for. Not that they are bad, no sir, for towing they are great, but write my requirements into the vehicle mission statement, and they immediately become ash trays!
Shawn welds a 3/8" NPT allen head fill plug into the side of the cover somewhere, and calls it done. I think it's a fine piece and I'm looking forward to painting that sucker up and bolting it to it's new home!


That thing's mongoloid! It was actually a part of a transformer (movie creature thing), the one that was a MH-53J I think!
He also makes one for the AAM 9.25 we have in the front of our trucks, and I'll be installing one of those as well.
The cover allows for 2 extra pints of fluid which is helpful, but also allows for a slight overfill through fill plug positioning if you desire to do so. Dunno on that fine point yet, but I'm betting I'll figure it out!
This pic shows the fill plug a little better

OK...ater a good night's sleep...
Only bad thing is the killer sheperd jumped all over me this morning early AM just to get me up to get his ball which was trapped under the dresser...
Da#$!! dog!
I was talking to Road Armor, I'll leave the gentlemans name out for now. Anyhow the guy who actualy designed that excellent bumper which we use. THe subject was rear bumpers. I was discussing picking up a rear bumper directly from him, but wanted to know if he had something innovative. We talked about this thread and the exposure it has and so forth.
It turns out that they (RA) have a totally new bumper design coming out for the 2500 HD GM. There were some design issues with the earlier bumper that caused them (RA) to have to tweak the models for the various years as GM subtly made changes to their design.
They will come out with a bumper that fits into the bumper recess, retains the towing framework, and mounts a winch! Unlike some other model vehicles it seems we get our cake and get to eat it too!
After some conversation the gentleman decided to allow me to announce the new unit here in this thread, then when they get one built, to bolt the prototype onto my truck where I can show the install for folks to view.
How cool is that?
Anyway, here are the first of the renditions of the new creation. I will show the current model above and the new creation below.
I am asking for some feedback that I may pass on to the RA folks. good/not good, like, don't like, suggestions. This is the time to get it out there and directly interact and influence the new design!!!!!!!!!




The new design will fit better and have recess for the back up sensors which will mount them at the correct angle. Those sensors, I hear are very expensive, something like hundreds, so this design protects their integrity while hardening the back side of our trucks!

Another view.


I think the license plate mounts where the winch goes. I know, I know, but I didn't see anywhere else to fit it in the design. Please keep in mind these are prototype renderings and may not represent the final design, just where they are at the moment.
With regard to the license plate, I was thinking of doing something like I did on my Tundra. With this bumper, I plan to run a rear winch as well as my front. It is always easier to back out of the mess you got in to rather than try to pull up and over against the obstacle that stopped you in the first place. Obviously that does not apply to winching yourself up a hill, but sure does for just about everything else.
Here's a pic of how I mounted the plate on my other truck:

I also asked them what will be the bumper capacity, i.e. how much winch can we put in there.
I suggested they look at something really big like this Recon 17.5K model, which I would definately mount up it the bumper can handle it:

Let me explain why I want such a large winch.
I have said in the past that all you really need is a 9K with a pulley. THat gives you 18K worth of pull for a lighter weight unit.

The rear winch can obviously be used to recover your vehicle, however I see a rear winch as a unit dedicated partially to recovering someone else. Perhaps a heavy vehicle downhill. In a position where you need your full length of line. For that, the rear winch is perfect, delivering a full 17.5K pull on 90 feet of line. it could also possibly allow you to position your vehicle in such a way that the heavy, engine, end is positioned over a rise which would serve as a great anchor for pulling such a large weight.

......Got some answers from Road Armor
Does the bumper work with a spare: Yes, it will work with a spare in the stock location up to a 33" tire
Does a winch mounted on the bumper interfere with a spare: No, as long as the spare is 33" or smaller and the winch is not too big in physical size.
Can the bumper mount a 17.5K unit like the recon model I have shown: The winch will fit as long as the winch control box is relocated. He (the engineer) designs around a warn M12000 winch for physical sizing and fitment.
So what other concerns do you have or have questions about with this new bumper that you would like to get answered?
Here's another winch that is cost effective like as in less than $500 and has a healthy line speed.

Here's some more views of that bumper showing a warn M12000 winch. You can see it is right there next to the spare. Another issue to resolve is that it interferes with the spare tire winch access mechanism, so that has to be sorted out
I believe the engineer said the winch clutch lever would have to be clocked slightly to gain clearance from the tow hitch but if you have never done that, it is not hard. I have to do it every time I mount a winch.


And a better rear aspect pic
« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:17:52 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #68 on: September 26, 2014, 11:16:56 AM »
Here it is coming apart and out:



Here's the axle assembly coming out. Tommy (left) and Brad manhandled that serious chunk of metal as best they could whild I snapped away. Piles Chevrolet has a great and caring staff who really "get it" when it comes to knowing guys like us. They are meticulous and Tommy who did the bulk of the work really took his time. I saw him constantly referencing the computerized manual. I didn't once see anyone rushing about, but I often saw them stop to think about how to do something.
Comment here: These Mechanics only get paid book labor time. If for example the book allows 3.6 hours for a ring and pinion change that's what these gentlemen get paid. That would suggest that they would need to work quickly to earn their paycheck. Tommy took all day! He labored 8 hours on this project perfereing to get it done right, in favor of making money. What do you say to that? That really shows character...like I have said before these guys are good, and that attitude runs all over this dealership, so, yes, I am shamlessly giving them a plug!
But more than that. we the people need to patronize places like this dealership who try their best to deliver even if it costs them personally!



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:30:56 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #69 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:06 AM »
Axle is out!

...The cavity left behind.
You don't often see this view
Still all shiney new looking!


Diff cover coming off


Fluid drained
Diff cover removed
Right axle extension assembly unbolted...


Diff cover has a great rubber "O" ring style gasket which we reused later. THe short shaft came out next. It is simply tapped out and set aside



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:38:40 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #70 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:16 AM »
Talking about gaskets and sealer, this stuff is the best there is for sealing up things. GM form-a-gasket compound. I elected not to use it and go with the factory gasket, but when Shawn sends me that excellent diff cover he's creating, I will use this stuff to seal it all up.

Here's a shot of the diff just before the side adjusters were removed.
I opened the install kit Randy's RIng and Pinion sent me to start fishing out some of the things Tommy would be using soon...


Make sure you have a 57mm 12 point socket at this point or you will have to stop work. That's one enormous bolt which is secured in place by a retainer which is pressed into the case into hundreds of mini splines. THe bolts screwed into the three holes "press" the retainer out, which allows one to remove mugo-nut!



The 57mm nut has a flange onto which the side carrier bearings are pressed. I have never seen such an arangement. THere is nothing else holding the diff in the case except gravity and good will! THis little fact will soon come home to roost and cause a bit of a problem...



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:41:20 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #71 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:25 AM »
Here the mechanics are removing the other bearing which is all that is holding in the diff at this point



With that bearing out the diff rolls right out!

Tommy thourghly cleaned, deburred and prepared the new ring gear for installation onto the new Eaton E-Locker
I started unboxing the Eaton unit
The thinner ring gear is the 3.73, thicker one if the 4.56



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:42:30 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #72 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:40 AM »
Those who are observant will notice the new ring gear is reinstalled onto the factory open differential.
You see as I rounded the corner with Mr. Eaton in hand, Tommy immediately gave me the "Rut-Row" look. You see, the Eaton unit I had which fits Chevy and Dodge 9.25 axles, does not actually fit the new much stronger and improved design which we had just taken all apart!
I have to fault myself here. I believe I may have miscommunicated with the folks at Randy's when placing the order for all this stuff. I think I was saying split case or something like that. You see, there used to be a split case front diff arrangement, apparently, but that is not what we have in our trucks today. We have a setup very similar to the rear or a 9" ford, sort of, but without caps. So there was no way the Eaton was going to fit. Apparently the gears still do but, that's about it.
A quick call to Tate at Randys confirmed my fears. He said nothing else was available either such as a limited slip, so I was left with no where to go except to reinstall the factory diff, which we started right away.
.........No use in crying over spilt milk, so with that little wrinkle out of the way, we continued with the install
Tommy torqued the ring gear onto the diff

The factory pinion gear is removed leaving an empty case.
The larger gear is the old 3.73

The empty, soon to be stuffed case


There was a shim behind the bearing which was transfered to the new pinion, and the bearing was pressed back on.


Here's some closeups of the factory diff showing the strange bearing arrangement and some shots of the side adjuster recess in the case



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:47:02 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #73 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:48 AM »
The new pinion bearing race is installed into the case


The new pinion was installed along with the bearing and the new seal, then the diff was rolled back into the case, and the side adjusters put back into place



« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:47:59 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #74 on: September 26, 2014, 11:17:56 AM »
The tell-tale yellow marking compound was painted onto a couple teeth and we rotated to get a pattern...What do you think???
Can you believe this guys luck, or skill?
Does that look good or what?



Not totally convienced, Tommy elected to tear it down again to take a better look. He removed the diff and the pinion gear then sat for quite a long time evaluating the pattern. Several other mechanics came over to consult and everyone agreed that it was pretty close, perhaps a tiny bit too deep. Finally, Tommy elected to reassemble it all again torqued to proper spec, crush sleeve in place and check it again
Here's what we got:




« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:49:32 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #75 on: September 26, 2014, 11:18:25 AM »
That is satisfactory and on the inside of the ring gear which is a pretty strong position, so he decided to let it stand!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK, time to button this puppy up and reinstall it
Here is the reassembly



Getting closer




Next came the GM synthetic fluid, just shy of 2 quarts pretty please!


Ready to come off the rack!

The final step was the test drive. I can promise you none of that was done on any pavement what so ever. We drove down the hill onto a gravel area and checked it out in 2WD, 4WD High, and 4WD Low, then back to 2WD. It performed flawlessly!
I'm telling you with that grizzly rear locker this truck is not playing around. THe traction and the power is really there. There was no hint of traction or power shortages, and no unusual sounds. THis was a terrific end to a good day. My compliments to Steve, Tommy, Brad, and the rest of the staff of the Piles Chevrolet service department who made this all come together and in such a positive way. THey are friendly, professional, are easy to work with and a pleasure to be around.

On the drive home mileage increased to 73MPG!!!!!!!!
OK, not really, still sitting at 19.3 with a 13% speedo error, so 17ish real world.
This is a super duper mod and I highly recommend it to all!

So I ended up going to church smelling like the liquid in those GM botles, I wonder if anyone noticed???
« Last Edit: October 17, 2014, 11:57:55 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #76 on: September 26, 2014, 11:18:36 AM »
I currently have a bunch of balls up in the air in the build/juggling act I find myself positioned at right now.

1. I will soon get the rear cover from Great Lakes Off Road (GLO), and swap that bad boy onto the truck with a fresh fluid change

2. Shawn (GLO), and I have a cool part and kit coming together for our trucks which will appear right afterward and kick off another round of mods to improve off road-a-bility. I think you all will want one of those kits once we get it all figured out...cool stuff

3. Rock rail/step thing is in it's early stages

4. The rear Road Armor bumper is in que, looking at sometime in June

and no. 5
which is
the 1st oil change

I didn't want to do just an oil change, I wanted to step it up some so, here's some foreshadowing of things to come in the next couple/few days:


Inside those boxes:


I'm going to do some other cool stuff as well to include a custom mount and a oil sampling valve/drain valve in lieu of the standard drain plug.
Should be a nice day long project taking things slow at first, then tapering off from there!

OK boys and girls
Ready for another one?
Today we are installing the Amsoil dual bypass filter system
Here's what you get in the box:


I will also be installing a fumoto drain valve in the oil pan

Here's a better pic of what's in the box

« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:02:11 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #77 on: September 26, 2014, 11:18:45 AM »
The filter base is one high quality chunk of aluminum. In fact everything is top of the line stuff!




First the old oil gets drained and the factory filter is removed


Here's the Fumoto drain valve that will be replacing the drain plug of old

« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:03:55 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #78 on: September 26, 2014, 11:18:53 AM »
Here is the block adapter showing its component parts



Here's a closeup of the line, fittings, and the instructions showing just how all this makes sense.
Really, it is a straight forward install, easily done!


I wanted to plug up that big leaky hole somewhat so I started reassembly with the installation of the block adapter along with the 90 degree fitting that is the pressure out (dirty oil)



I preassembled the filter block somewhat to try to figure out where it should be placed

« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:05:42 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #79 on: September 26, 2014, 11:19:02 AM »
The spot I selected to mount the filter unit was festooned with wiring bundles. I pryed the loom off the frame, then drilled a 1/4" hole overhead in a stiffner and reinstalled it overhead out of the way




This is that spot on the frame along side of the torsion bar all cleaned off and ready to fit some custom adapter I have yet to figure out!

At this point, the oil finally stopped dribbling out so I installed the Fumoto drain valve


When I drain the oil, I want it to be mess free and I want to be capable to drain into a milk carton, so I installed a length of clear plastic tube. To secure it from dangling in the slipstream, I talled an existing hole in the bottom of the Allison with a 5/16" tap and bolted a #8 Adel clamp that holds the clamped off line, all done with that!




« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:07:23 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #80 on: September 26, 2014, 11:21:29 AM »
Next I started attaching brackets to the fliter unit to try to figure out how to fit it to the truck
I noticed right away that one of the bolts was too close to the filter, so I ground it back some. At this point I hadn't realized I had the filter unit turned around backwards



Now the line fittings go in as well as the plugs for the opposite side



Next, I added a sampling drain valve for those future oil samples


« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:08:41 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #81 on: September 26, 2014, 11:21:44 AM »
The adapter to enable me to mount the filter head to the frame was as simple as taking a short section of box steel tubing. I used an existing hole in the frame and drilled another 1/2" hole forward of that. I used two frame bolts I had removed earlier, 7/16" diameter super strong and coated. I then tack welded their nuts inside of the box section




The mount turned out to be simple, sturdy and plenty strong enough
The filter unit bolts to it with 4ea 1/4" bolts



After painting the mount, I permanently installed the filter mount assembly onto the frame


Next I started assembling the new oil lines. I think this is #10 hose which has a 1/2" ID and flows a lot of stuff


« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:10:29 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #82 on: September 26, 2014, 11:22:03 AM »
1st line is installed


...and the second line is installed



I filled the filters with the fresh Amsoil

...and installed both filters onto their mounts. Even the lables came out in the right place. This project just went well from start to finish!




I topped the engine off with the remainder of the three gallons of oli I had, and started it up.
I had pressure almost right away, and not a single leak!
Now that's how to cross the finish line!

« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:19:03 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #83 on: September 26, 2014, 11:22:12 AM »
Jumping around here a bit,
Although we are still on the oil discussion for the moment, I just got an eamil from Road Armor.
The engineer designing the new Chevy HD bumper responded to the requests you made earlier.
He says it is very difficult to get another two light ports in there. Not impossible, but difficult. Same-same with the license plate relocate. Complicating factors have to be structure both seen and behind as well as the back up sensor cutouts that are inclusive in the new design.
He sent me this side view pic to share:

Here's a good pic of a Taco that took a rear impact from a 3/4 ton service van. THe aft road armor bumper was apparently still useable, whereas the van was not
Conversation continues about license placement, but no news at the moment. THe issue is to keep it trim and not overly bulky so plate placement turns out to be something that is difficult to design around. the other pic shows the overall bulk and size of the current design that could reach production.


I know down the road I am going to want to install a Dana 60 up front. That will get the front end close to indestructable, however I'll have to say bye-bye to my nice ride.
I need to do something to prevent that from happening.
Maybe if I sink a chunk of change into the front, I won't be tempted to mess with it
Something like these:


Those magnificient puppies are RCV lifetime CV axles.
They are two things, well three actually
1. Uber expensive $2500 a pair!
2. Unbreakable
3. Lifetime warranty, you ever wear them out or break them, you get another one!
and
4. Really kool
OK, that's four things, but I'm only an Armee Pilut, but you get the picture!


Quote:
Originally Posted by *********
"Is there a picture of the completed truck on here somewhere. I read 55 pages, but I can't keep searching. Thanks"


Don't want you to go looking all over, so I'll post one up for ya.
Not current, the truck is changing every few days with the addition of more parts. It currently looks like an Army Mrap!



« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:32:21 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #84 on: September 26, 2014, 11:22:23 AM »
The mail man delivered the rear axle cover made by Shawn over at Great Lakes Off Road in Indiana.
It is a raw steel, no-excuses part that not only looks cool, but it's priced at half of what the aluminum covers cost, increases fluid capacity, has a lifetime warranty, provides protection against anything short of an IED from damaging that costly Grizzly and 4.56 gears, and adds strength through stiffening up the differential housing.
This is a great part and a quickie project for anyone wanting something cool and easy to do.
Here's some shots of it:



Here's some floor shots of it:



The flange is laser cut from 1/2" steel, and the rest is from a single piece of formed and welded 1/4" plate.

The fill plug is located up higher so you can opt to bring the fluid level a bit higher if perfered. I will do that and see how it all works out. That fill plug is 3/8" NPT (big)
The bolt holes are factory sized


Tomorrow I'll acid etch the thing and paint it, then install it when it properly dries.
You have to appreciate great little products like these coming out of entrepreneurs in the good old US of A. An everyday guy gets and idea and executes on it and creates a product and a business. That is the engine of this nation and I just feel great supporting folks like him and his wife as they work long hours (at multiple jobs) to make this thing a success. It's a privilege to get a part like this, aside from the fact that it is, well, a great part!


« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:38:32 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #85 on: September 26, 2014, 11:22:33 AM »
This is STLASER'S original intro into Don's build thread (the guy that built Don's diff covers and a member on this site):
Here is the original link to the JP Mag article (yeah I realize they drive Jeeps but it is what it is...). Which is basically some knuckle heads shooting various cartridges at our covers, the main point is however we won the independent review. Note: please disregard the non scientific testing procedures that allowed us to win.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-0708-bulletproof-test/photo-01.html
In all honesty we were not the first to build a fabricated differential cover. Wagoners Machine Shop was the original to the best of my knowledge. Please realize if you know who I'm talking about you are doing two things, one showing your age and two you are a hard core wheeling guy.

We were the first to build a true two piece fabricated cover the correct way with state of the art machinery at a realistic price point. We have since been copied by no less than ten different manufacturers (it is my opinion imitation is the sincerest form of flattery). One thing to note is we still have more options available and in all honesty the best welder that I know finishing these up for our customers. We are family owned and all the parts are built here in the US by true craftsmen. Lastly there are endless modifications you can incorporate into these units and that sets them apart from anyone in the field.

Finally a little on our background, I am a general manger of one of the largest production laser fabrication companies in Indiana and have been for the last fifteen years. My wife is a registered nurse working towards her masters degree and we are raising three daughters the correct way with lots of hands on experiences involving shooting sports and a variety of four wheel drive vehicles. In all we have operated GLO for the last ten years, which started as a good reason to get me off the pavement more often. Thanks Shawn & Tonya


OK, I painted the cover today, although after seeing what it looks like now, I may be painting it again tomorrow, still thinking about it...
Here's the raw cover, then the same one after being treated with Muriac acid which is pretty powerful stuff


I thourghly washed with very hot water, dried it, the sprayed it with Zinc Phosphate. THis is the primer used on aircraft where corrosion is a berry berry bad thing. First coat was a light one


Two more coats gave me the coverage I wanted. Zinc is a self sacrificing metal. If there is ever a scratch this deep that exposes parent steel, the zinc molecules will actually flow into and over the scratch to prevent oxidation.


Next it got a coat of high temp primer, then a brush on coat of Hammerite textured gray metallic paint.
This is weird stuff if you haven't ever seen it. No matter how you smear, brush, or spray it on, it reacts and flows all crazy like creating a hammered metal texture. I sort of like that because it doesn't show nicks or scratches and is very thick going on.



I gave it a second coat and at 1700 it was still not completely dry, so I guess I'll do the install of the cover tomorrow. No worries since I need to purchase longer bolts. I was going to install with the factory bolts, then upgrade in a week to something cool, but those tiny factory things just won't be long enough. I might do what Shawn suggested and install studs, seems like a good idea, and lookes no-excuses rugged!
I'm not completely sure I like how that dude turned out. Not as uniform as I was expecting, so giving it the night to sleep on is prudent!


« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 12:56:53 AM by KensAuto »

Offline OVERWATCH_09

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #86 on: September 26, 2014, 11:22:51 AM »


« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 01:01:03 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #87 on: September 26, 2014, 11:23:03 AM »













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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #88 on: September 26, 2014, 11:23:12 AM »







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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #89 on: September 26, 2014, 11:23:25 AM »











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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #90 on: September 26, 2014, 11:23:34 AM »









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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #91 on: September 26, 2014, 11:24:03 AM »










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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #92 on: September 26, 2014, 11:24:26 AM »
















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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #93 on: September 26, 2014, 11:24:44 AM »

















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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #94 on: September 26, 2014, 11:24:59 AM »







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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #95 on: September 26, 2014, 11:25:14 AM »
















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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #96 on: September 26, 2014, 11:25:31 AM »














Offline KensAuto

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #97 on: October 18, 2014, 01:03:53 AM »
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #98 on: October 19, 2014, 05:50:04 PM »
Love what you are doing with the truck! I saw a miller 212 welder in a pic, if it's yours how do you like it? Hoping to upgrade mine soon.

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread [Part 1]
« Reply #99 on: October 19, 2014, 06:23:40 PM »
Yes it's mine

The Miller 212 is a great Mig

It continues to serve me well to this day

If you haven't seen this build, the part copied over here is maybe a tenth of what that truck goes through.

Unfortunately, I don't believe we will ever get to copy the 8,000+ posts on its build thread, but all the new stuff will happen here.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2014, 06:30:34 PM by Flyin6 »
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