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Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #100 on: May 19, 2016, 06:49:42 PM »
can't. wait.

Offline wyorunner

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #101 on: May 19, 2016, 06:53:02 PM »
Ain't much for motivation but here's a picture of a 12v sitting in a crew...you're doing that to yours right?


Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #102 on: May 19, 2016, 07:14:23 PM »
did the ax handle take out the front windshield..? hahah

Offline wyorunner

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #103 on: May 19, 2016, 07:28:36 PM »
did the ax handle take out the front windshield..? hahah

Hammer, and no.... While it was a crappy accident (engine slipped, and hoist was not taut and smashed into the windshield), it did allow me to see the windshield channel and lack of rust in there so I was pleased. Now my biggest concern is getting replacement glass!

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #104 on: May 19, 2016, 07:35:29 PM »
I got a new one from a place here. came out and installed it at the house for $200.. and I only have a leak from a screw. not something with the new gasket.

perfect fit

Offline JR

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #105 on: May 19, 2016, 08:24:24 PM »
Last time I has a windshield replaced was at my house and was under $150 (87 elky)
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OldKooT

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #106 on: May 20, 2016, 07:20:03 AM »
Thanks Ken I will take a look at that stuff. What I ever I use, I will need lot of it. Must be a half mile of seams on that roof LoL

My lovely wife reminded me last night that I need to have a vin check done by the sheriff before I tear the dash (and vin tag) out of the truck. Neb requires all out of state titles to have a vin check done...and the Crew still has a Wisconsin title. So that's the first order of business. If I can't get that done today....that will slow things down considerably until it's done.

I found two small rust pin holes in the floor. Which is odd because the metal surrounding them is very solid. I will have to see about removing that and patching it...(about a square inch LoL)

Part of a crew cab cummins swap is the firewall modifications for the clutch master cylinder and the interference with the 1985 style wiring/bulkhead. So one thing I could do today while waiting for the sheriff is figure out how I will address that issue.

It's 6:20 am I got up at 3am and the days required work is done, so it's the weekend now... I have most of the day to mess with the crew project. Come on Sun......


Offline cudakidd53

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #107 on: May 20, 2016, 04:57:49 PM »
Hey Norm, why not go old school and "lead" the seams?  It sure won't rot, you can smooth over with body filler, and you probably have enough wheel weights sitting in one of those sheds to cover your needs.  We took an old hub cap and melted hundreds/thousands in our fireplace when I was younger to fill the frame on the stock car......since adding weight wasn't allowed supposedly  ;)  I suppose a campfire would be more "safe"......unless it's raining!
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Offline stlaser

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #108 on: May 20, 2016, 05:43:14 PM »
I thought the lead was the body filler in applications like that in the old day?
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

OldKooT

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #109 on: May 20, 2016, 09:37:54 PM »
Lead wouldn't likely work good in a seam required to flex. That said neither do some seam sealers LoL  I grew up smearing lead...I actually even own most of the specialized tools for lead work. Not sure if I remember how to use them, or where they are. LoL




Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #110 on: May 20, 2016, 09:39:54 PM »
I grew up smearing lead...

well that certainly explains a lot..

Offline stlaser

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #111 on: May 20, 2016, 11:29:35 PM »
Oh boy, got a chuckle out of that comment...... ;D
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

OldKooT

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #112 on: May 21, 2016, 08:44:49 AM »
Yeah I probably asked for that LoL

So the subject of paint color has arrived...we will discuss that today but it's been said if we could find a match to the OEM color that would be a happy day. Not holding my breath LoL

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #113 on: May 21, 2016, 08:57:47 AM »
can't you get it read and have a duplicate paint color mixed..?

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #114 on: May 21, 2016, 12:03:41 PM »
Made me wonder for a moment

What part of the human brain is affected by lead poisoning? ;)
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OldKooT

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #115 on: May 23, 2016, 07:31:40 AM »
Well we passed the vin check Saturday with flying colors. So I believe dash removal and firewall modifications will begin. I hope to have most of the required welding on the cab done, and the floor/firewall at least in primer in the next few days.

Yesterday Kay and I went and took a look at a 1980 W200 Snow Commander parts truck that was for sale. I should purchase it....I manged to not buy the truck despite the Dana 60 front, power lock Dana 60 HD rear, 360/727/205 and rust free front sheet-metal.

I did however buy the uber rare OEM auxiliary rear fuel tank and cross member for $20.

Anyway back to work for me....I will post some new pics when I have any progress you can see LoL

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #116 on: May 23, 2016, 09:02:15 AM »
did I miss where you said what front clip/grill it was going to end up with? keeping it year correct.. or going with a 91-93 front end..?

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #117 on: May 23, 2016, 11:51:23 AM »
The grill/core support is a interesting question. The easiest route would be a 91.5-93 intercooled support/grill obviously. Then there is the fact I prefer the older grills (say 1985 vintage) that and they are much stronger as well. So...I am thinking if I can wedge a power stroke intercooler, a radiator, and a AC condenser in a 1985 core support/grill, that's what I'd prefer to do.

It may come down to time. If I have time to mess around with what I am sure will be a fair amount of core support fab/butchery...I will take a stab at making the 1985 grill work. If I am short on time I may ust go for the quick and easy intercooled grill/support.

Fuel tanks is another issue. The OEM Crew tanks are smaller than normal pickup tanks 25 vs 30 gallon. I am not fond of the factory tanks as they are low hanging but if I ran the OEM crew cab tank and this  OEM 1980 rear tank I scored, I'd have 50 gallons...so probably enough. I do have a 50 gallon farmer bed tank I could modify into a main fuel tank also...so I am thinking on this entire process as well. If I ran all 3...I'd have a even 100 gallons. That's tempting....we shall see. I'd be tempted to run a 30 gallon RC tank in the very rear and then the 25 gallon aux tank in front of that....but th RC tank doesn't fit in between the crew cabs rear frame rails without some trimming...Rc's have narrower frame flanges


Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Pro Expo--build
« Reply #118 on: May 24, 2016, 08:44:25 AM »
what ive run in to with putting a 2nd gen IC in front of my early first gen (with mid 80s core support) was the depth of the front grill. they seem to step further back than the 91-93s (which seem to be a smoother, further forward profile line.. allowing for the IC, trans cooler and condenser). it would, however, be pretty awesome to see some round headlights on the front of a CCC. does it have the scalloped hood, or is it the standard dodge hood?

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #119 on: May 27, 2016, 04:04:25 PM »
what does this mean.. project terminated??

Offline JR

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #120 on: May 27, 2016, 05:48:14 PM »
??????????
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Offline stlaser

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #121 on: May 27, 2016, 08:40:57 PM »
Norm ran into a problem, apparently above the windshield in the crew cab it appears to have been hit with something & dented in. Well, whoever fixed it must have used a slide puller to get the dent out & drilled two holes. This removed the dent but I guess they didn't think welding the two holes shut was a priority.  ::) so every time it rained it left water in and rusted. Well, Norm is on a timeline & he ain't got no time for fixing that so he's going different direction now.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2016, 08:45:02 PM by stlaser »
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #122 on: May 27, 2016, 09:27:07 PM »
Norm ran into a problem, apparently above the windshield in the crew cab it appears to have been hit with something & dented in. Well, whoever fixed it must have used a slide puller to get the dent out & drilled two holes. This removed the dent but I guess they didn't think welding the two holes shut was a priority.  ::) so every time it rained it left water in and rusted. Well, Norm is on a timeline & he ain't got no time for fixing that so he's going different direction now.
Dang it!
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Offline Sammconn

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #123 on: May 28, 2016, 12:19:48 AM »
That sucks...really too bad things like that happen. I do want to see this one get done too, but with a timeline that's one heck of a repair.

Will be patiently waiting for the next one to come up!

Sorry for the bad luck Norm.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

OldKooT

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #124 on: May 28, 2016, 07:25:15 AM »
Yes the above pretty much explains it. The crew cab went from a simple build to a full on restoration/preservation. Amazing what a pin hole of rust can do. I will still be working on it when time allows.... but other truck building priorities are now in play.


Offline swbhobie16

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #125 on: May 28, 2016, 09:17:11 AM »
well that's a bummer. I found one around here.. step side and all. but dang if he doesn't want an arm and a leg for it. sheeessh.

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #126 on: May 28, 2016, 09:53:49 AM »
Honestly....it's kind of a blessing as I see it. It not being a "expo build" will likely extend it's life span considerably. My advice to crew buyers or owners...be careful...the small amount of rust ours had was all hidden under the windshields weather stripping.

Offline JR

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #127 on: May 28, 2016, 02:30:43 PM »
Spray some converter in there and weld those holes up. I have 3 antenna holes on the sub to fix, and a HUGE one on the side.
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OldKooT

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #128 on: May 29, 2016, 07:06:32 AM »
The proper way to fix it is to remove about 14" of roof skin, the entire front drip rail assembly, media blast and then replace the drip rail, skin assembly. It's simple enough, just time consuming with there being 200 or so spot welds to drill.

It will be a entertaining winter project.... right now I have a summer project to get rolling.

Offline Dustoff35

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #129 on: May 31, 2016, 03:37:26 PM »
Hey Norm, when you get a chance, would you snap a picture of the affected area and post it up? 

OldKooT

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #130 on: May 31, 2016, 09:45:22 PM »
Yeah Duane I'd be happy to. Look for a pic tomorrow evening.

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #131 on: May 31, 2016, 10:24:44 PM »
Hey Norm, when you get a chance, would you snap a picture of the affected area and post it up? 
Hey Bro, you don't think your PW has anything like that going on, do you?
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Offline Dustoff35

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #132 on: June 01, 2016, 06:21:02 AM »
Yeah Duane I'd be happy to. Look for a pic tomorrow evening.
Thanks.

Offline Dustoff35

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #133 on: June 01, 2016, 06:23:49 AM »
Hey Norm, when you get a chance, would you snap a picture of the affected area and post it up? 
Hey Bro, you don't think your PW has anything like that going on, do you?
I don't think so.  I have heard stories about rust starting in the drip rail above the windshield on this body style and would like to see an example so I can do a thorough inspection.  Probably would benefit you as well.

OldKooT

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #134 on: June 01, 2016, 07:22:42 AM »
Honestly the truth is, I had no idea ours had any rust at all. The body is the driest nicest crew I have ever seen.

I had one spot where the seam sealer had a small crack in it so I made the call to grind out all the seam sealer, and that's when I found the damage. Now if some idiot had not left holes behind the windshield gasket I am confident there would have been no rust. I based that on the fact the entire rest of the roof has dry pinch welds and looks great.

There are three pieces of metal that are spot welded together under that drip rail...after removal of the seam sealer I found a soft spot. I could fix it without the removal of the outer roof skin but eventually it would get worse. The only correct way to fix it is to remove the first 15" or so of roof skin and clean/blast the inner skin...epoxy prime it, and replace the outer skin, drip rail with pristine pieces.

I made the call to put this project off until winter largely because of the time a proper "body" job would take and the call that for what we need/want of out next truck...I didn't want to risk the rare crew body off road.

Duane you have seen Patch...I can't bring myself to subject a rare nice crew to that abuse...call me sensitive LoL

I will get some pictures latter today...but in all honesty I'd sure consider windshield removal as the only way to know for sure...and even then that seam sealer can hide surface rust under it. I found a few places removing seam sealer on our crew that would have become an issue in another 5 years or so.

My advice to anyone with this roof style especially...so all Crews and club cabs 93 or older and all standard cabs 1981 and older that is considering painting anyway...remove the seam sealer and repaint and reseal and keep it dry.

Roof rust is common on all 93 and older Dodges....but the early roof design is by far the most prone.

I am just relieved I caught this problem on our crew before it became a real issue... right now it's a time consuming but simple fix that will allow me to address this properly, and eliminate any fear of a future rust issue.




Offline JR

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #135 on: June 01, 2016, 10:57:00 AM »
With all that is there a way to graft a new top on? Which is easier, finding a whole cab or finding a good roof.
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OldKooT

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Re: Project Terminated
« Reply #136 on: June 01, 2016, 02:59:28 PM »
Jr... it doesn't need a entire roof... just some work in the rain gutter/lip area. That said, since I have a good front roof section from a club cab that's perfect, I am going to cut the roof back a foot or so and blast/treat/epoxy the inner roof and the "sandwiched area" It's a simple process if you don't count drilling 100 or so spot welds from each roof section, then re spot welding all three pieces together and then welding the roof skin back without warping. I have done it before....it just takes patience and time.  If it had one spec of rust anywhere else in a seam or pinch weld I'd possibly find a different cab....but since they rust like this even in Arizona...that's easier said than done.

As an example... I looked at a old Crew Fire truck that's been stored indoors it's entire life. It has about 12k miles on it. Mine is way cleaner rust wise than that truck....and they want and got $7k for it. '

This is the bad area after some picking at it and seeing how bad it is.







 

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