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Offline rcampbell

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Car Hauler Trailer Build
« on: August 14, 2016, 08:38:25 AM »
Hi everyone, I've been collecting parts for my trailer build. I got two 3500lb axles yesterday, I have a 7000lb drop leg jack, and a trailer light kit. Will be getting the springs today likely.

Was just looking for some opinions on the build, if anyone has done something similar. I've build a 5x8 trailer out of angle, and a 5x10 out of square tube, so I'm excited for the project. I think the channel is the way to go, since up here in Canada it's easier to treat rust if it's not on the inside of a square tube.

I plan to use this to be able to haul a car, but also general purpose use like lumber, atv's etc.

Was also wondering about paint, thought about trying to 2-part epoxy paint (KlassKote).

Any helpful hints would be great!

Online TexasRedNeck

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2016, 09:54:34 AM »
Well, I'm probably opening a can of worms but I would go 5200lb axles. With the weight of the trailer and stuff that only leaves about 4500-5000 lb in capacity with 3500lb axles.


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Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2016, 09:59:01 AM »
Yeah, I may someday, but I have to stick with 3500 axles for now. I may build the trailer so that it can handle 10K GVW, and swap them out someday though. It seems like most car haulers I've looked at use the same material for 7K and 10K trailers.

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2016, 10:39:30 AM »
That's a good plan. Post up progress. Im Contemplating a gooseneck build and want to pick up some tips from you.


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Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2016, 11:20:49 AM »
I've built several trailers over the years. If you have specific questions post them up. I'll keep an eye on this build & if I see any huge concerns I'll be sure to harass you about them.....

As TRN said go gooseneck if you can, muy better all around......
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2016, 11:27:24 AM »
Perfect, thanks for the help! I'll be sure to get some pics up soon. Next step is to finalize decision on length and get steel ordered. I'm thinking 18' deck might be ideal for me. 16' seems a little short, and I dont think I would need 20'. Won't be able to go gooseneck on this one, will need the box of the truck for other things unfortunately.

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2016, 11:36:53 AM »
Steel is sold in 20-24' lengths, just saying..... ;)
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Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2016, 08:05:00 AM »
My initial thought was go more than 3500 lb axles also.  I purchased a used car hauler last year real cheap.  I needed something that I could take to and from the lumber yard to get 20 ft lumber home, stacks of drywall etc..  I plan to swap the axles out and beef it up in a few spots to make it a little more reliable of a equipment trailer.  I was hoping to (2) 5200 lb axles but got a steel on a couple 4400 lb take-offs.

I've also been looking into and considering buying or building either a 14,000 gooseneck or bumper pull.  Below is a sheet I put together of some of the major brands and what they use for materials at certain weight ratings.  I included the 14/16000 lb info for TRN.  I would go channel frame with channel cross members. For a 10,000 lb trailer I think you could get by with a 5" channel frame and 3" channel cross-members. 

      Kaufman Trailer                                                   
                                                         
   10,000   6" channel Frame            12000   5" channel Frame                           15000   4x6x3/8 Angle Frame      
      5" channel Tongue            **Must block under rear of trailer to load heavy   5" channel Tongue            14000   6" channel Frame               6" channel Tongue      
      3" channel on 24" centers               3" channel on 24" centers               6" channel Tongue               3" channel on 16" centers      
                                    3" channel on 24" centers                     
   10,000   6" channel Frame            12000   6" channel Frame                           15000   4x7x3/8 Angle Frame      
      5" channel Tongue               5" channel Tongue                              6" channel Tongue      
      3" channel on 16"                3" channel on 16" centers            14000   6" channel Frame               3" channel on 16" centers crossmembers      
                                    6" channel Tongue                     
   10,000   5" channel Frame                              3" channel on 24" centers            15000   6" channel Frame      
      5" channel Tongue            12000   6" channel Frame                              6" channel Tongue      
      3" channel on 24" centers               6" channel Tongue                              3" channel on 24" centers      
                     3" channel on 24" centers                                    
   10,000   6" channel Frame                                                   
      5" channel Tongue            12000   6" channel Frame                           17000   6" channel Frame      
      3" channel on 24" centers               6" channel Tongue                              6" channel Tongue      
                     3" channel on 24" centers                              3" channel on 16" centers      
   10000   4x6x5/16 Angle Frame                                                   
      5" channel Tongue                                                   
      3" channel on 16" centers                                                   
                                                         
                                                         
                                                         
      PJ Trailer                                                   
                                                         
   10000   5" channel Frame            14000   6" channel Frame                                    
      5" channel Tongue               6" channel Tongue                  feet   $/ft   cost            
      3" channel on 16" centers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
                                                         
                                                         
      Bix Tex Trailers                                                   
                                                         
   10000   5"x3"x1/4" Angle Frame            14000   5"x3"x5/16" Angle Frame                                    
      5" channel Tongue               6" channel Tongue                                    
      3"x2"x3/16" Angle Crossmembers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
      Wood Deck                                                   
                                                         
                                                         
   10000   5" channel Frame            14000   6" channel Frame                                    
      5" channel Tongue               6" channel Tongue                                    
      3" channel Crossmembers               3" channel on 24" centers                                    
                                                         
                                                         
   10000   5"x2"x3/16" Tubing            14000   6" channel Frame                                    
      5" channel Tongue               6" channel Tongue                                    
      3" channel Crossmembers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
      Steel Deck                                                   
                                                         
                                                         
      Load Trail                                                   
                                                         
   10000   5" channel Frame            14000   6" I-beam                                    
      5" channel Tongue               single tier frame and tongue                                    
      3" channel Crossmembers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
                                                         
                                                         
   10000   4x6 angle Frame            14000   4x6 angle Frame                                    
      6" channel Tongue               6" channel Tongue                                    
      3" channel on 16" centers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
                                                         
                                                         
   10000   5" channel Frame            14000   8" channel Frame                                    
      5" channel Tongue               8" channel Tongue                                    
      3" channel Crossmembers               3" channel on 16" centers                                    
                                                         
                                                         
If anybody wants the spread sheet all this info is in send me an email to send to.

Offline Sammconn

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #8 on: August 15, 2016, 11:58:34 AM »
So, I built one a few years ago.
2 X 9 tube, and 2 X 3 1/2 tube.
Used tube as it was free, from Walmart of course.
I went with 3500# axles because I got them dirt cheap.
I am currently waiting to have some spare bucks to upgrade them to 5200 or 6000 pounders.
I've bent two front axles now, and it's done major service for me until upgraded.

It got the heck beat out of it once loaded, with me going too fast, on one a me was bent empty, bad bump, and huge bounce.







So, if you already have the 3500's then bear in mind what some of the others have said about payload. Watch for bad bumps and you'll be good for a while. I've had some serious loads on mine over the years, and they will work. Just beat in mind one day you'll need to replace them. They are too light for the size you're building. Which is the size of mine, 16' flat, 2' beaver tail.
I do recommend having a look at the third picture, I have tie points in the centre space on every crossmember. You can never have enough, and I wish I'd've put a few more.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2016, 01:03:34 PM »
What size tube do you have on the tongue there?  It seems small compared to your 9" frame.

Offline Sammconn

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #10 on: August 15, 2016, 02:03:39 PM »
It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2016, 02:04:27 PM by Sammconn »
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #11 on: August 15, 2016, 03:27:10 PM »
It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.

Do you think? lol

Hey, my favorite saying is "if it's free, it's for me!"...especially when it comes to metal.

..and x1000 on the tie down points. you can never have enough. My open trailer is a Big Tex 8k, built out of angle, so I have plenty of places to hook to, but with tubing, hook placement is a bit limited.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2016, 03:29:37 PM »

For a 10,000 lb trailer I think you could get by with a 5" channel frame and 3" channel cross-members. 


Yes 5" channel rails and tongue with 3" channel cross members was what I was thinking I'd use. I likely won't ever go bigger than a 10K trailer since my Sierra can't haul bigger than that anyway.

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2016, 03:42:42 PM »
It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.

The 2x9 is definitely overkill.  The 2x4-1/4 is probably ok for a 10,000lb trailer but might be on the edge.

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2016, 03:48:42 PM »

Yes 5" channel rails and tongue with 3" channel cross members was what I was thinking I'd use. I likely won't ever go bigger than a 10K trailer since my Sierra can't haul bigger than that anyway.

How long do you plan to go?  With 3500 lb axles and wanting to use it as a car hauler I would put some serious thought into the minimum length you need.  The un-used length will just bite into your overall capacity.  On the other hand depending on what you are using for a tow vehicle ideally you would like some extra deck space to get a balanced load.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2016, 05:02:57 PM »
Yes that was part of my thought process for sure. I currently have no car that I would regularly haul with the trailer, but would want it more for utility trailer type uses in the short term. I originally thought 18' because I figured it might give enough room to move a car back and forth a little if I need to adjust tongue weight etc, I thought 16' might be on the short side and not provide as much room to move weight around. I thought maybe 20' would be more weight, but not much more benefit, but I guess it's really only like 250 or 300 lbs in the difference.

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2016, 05:10:46 PM »
I would build it for the 3500# axles you have, when done sell it & build one with larger axles.

So 3500# axles use 4 pcs of 4" channel front to back for the deck & 3" channel is fine for cross pieces even 2x3 1/4" angle will suffice here as well....... Tongue can be 4" channel as well, if you plan on overloading it go to 5" on the tongue.

At the rate you're going your frame will be so heavy you can't haul anything w/o over loading the axles.

I'd also buy 20's for the 4" channel & cut them to around 16' with a 3-3.5' dovetail (whatever you can get from the 20'er)
« Last Edit: August 15, 2016, 05:13:13 PM by stlaser »
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2016, 05:31:01 PM »
What do you mean 4 pieces front to back? Like four 20 foot long pieces of 4" channel? Or just 4" around the perimeter? If I used 4" channel for the main rails, the 2x8" planks won't slide between the top of the cross member and the lip of the main rail, which isn't needed, but is nice to help hold them. Would you have a drawing maybe you could share?

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2016, 05:46:12 PM »
This is sort of what I was going to model it after. Weight doesn't seem too bad on the 18 footer, even with 5" channel. Not sure what would be the weight difference with 4" channel though.

http://loadtrail.com/index.php/trailers/car-haulers-bob-cats/details/?model=CH07&&desc=Carhauler+7%2C000+Lb+w%2F5%22+Channel+Frame&&title=Car-Haulers%20and%20Bob%20Cats

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2016, 06:06:57 PM »
What do you mean 4 pieces front to back? Like four 20 foot long pieces of 4" channel? Or just 4" around the perimeter? If I used 4" channel for the main rails, the 2x8" planks won't slide between the top of the cross member and the lip of the main rail, which isn't needed, but is nice to help hold them. Would you have a drawing maybe you could share?

If it were me & this is a car hauler first & utility trailer second. Yes, I would run 4pcs of 4" channel front to back. They would not be equally spaced, it's a car hauler first (if you're hauling lumber etc, get 2 or 3 4x4 posts to span center section. So you would have a single piece of 4" channel on the outside front to back then come in 16" - 24" or so from each outside rail & run the other two 4" channels front to rear parallel to outside rail. Front & rear of the frame can be angle or flat for that matter. I'm thinking weight first & heaviest duty second due to your axles. All the front and rear of frame is doing is holding the spread along with angle or channel pieces that will cross the trailer side to side across where the wheels of the vehicle you're hauling will sit.

My cad computer is in the shop right now or I could draw it up nice with dimensions & even figure cut angles for dovetail etc. along with bom.....

Idea is to use material w/ least amount of drop getting largest trailer possible you need to do job & lightest weight because of axles.
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Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #20 on: August 15, 2016, 09:06:35 PM »
Shawn, that seems like overkill for a 7k trailer. Just sayin'. I know you like to do things overkill (as well do I) but the idea is to be able to haul the heaviest weight with the least amount of trailer weight as possible and still be safe. I'll weight for your lashing. :)


18' is a perfect length car hauler imo. I've used the 3 common ones quite a bit..16, 18, and 20. the 20 always drags...always. The 16 is short for hauling trucks. The 18 will fit our trucks and still have room for movement.

Again, just my opinions.

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #21 on: August 15, 2016, 09:12:31 PM »
Ken, I was figuring for a 20' trailer. I agree it can be built lighter, 3" channel will hold most likely. Also I didn't specify on what centers for the angle or c front to rear & they are not crossing the whole trailer side to side only under the ramps. Center of trailer is open or expanded metal.

We used to build race car trailers 16' with no suspension out of 3" c & 2x2 angle but it was for stock cars. Surprisingly we never broke anything and hauled those cars all over.....

I don't recall him telling me what vehicle he was hauling so I figured 4" was safe go between the 3" & what they were talking about.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2016, 09:16:19 PM by stlaser »
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Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2016, 10:02:49 PM »
I would build like the one in your link.  A 20 ft piece down each side and one on each side for the tongue wrapping back to the axles. 4 or 5" channel.  Either is fine.  Doesn't sound like you will be pushing it very hard often so maybe 4 to keep weight down.  I believe would put yoir cross members on 24" centers.  If your loading a heavy vehicle you can always put an extra plank down to spread the weight out more if needed.

Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #23 on: August 16, 2016, 09:50:02 AM »
Ken, I was figuring for a 20' trailer. I agree it can be built lighter, 3" channel will hold most likely. Also I didn't specify on what centers for the angle or c front to rear & they are not crossing the whole trailer side to side only under the ramps. Center of trailer is open or expanded metal.

I don't recall him telling me what vehicle he was hauling so I figured 4" was safe go between the 3" & what they were talking about.

Gotcha. I can see clearly now, the rain is gone.


Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #24 on: August 16, 2016, 10:03:43 AM »
I will definitely be going with a wooden plank deck (no open center section), and had originally figured on a 5" channel frame and tongue with 3" channel cross members that span the full width of the trailer, spaced at 16" front to back. The biggest vehicles I could see me hauling in the near future would be some atvs, or a car or a small 4x4 like a TJ or a small toyota truck.

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #25 on: August 16, 2016, 11:06:29 AM »
I will definitely be going with a wooden plank deck (no open center section), and had originally figured on a 5" channel frame and tongue with 3" channel cross members that span the full width of the trailer, spaced at 16" front to back. The biggest vehicles I could see me hauling in the near future would be some atvs, or a car or a small 4x4 like a TJ or a small toyota truck.

Have you calculated the weight of all of this steel yet?
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #26 on: August 16, 2016, 12:27:37 PM »
Yeah, considering just the steel portion of the trailer, it is about 6.7 lbs/ft for 5"channel and 3.5 lbs/ft for 3" channel. Given an overestimate of 100' of each is 670+350 = 1020 lbs, for just steel in the frame and cross members.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #27 on: July 05, 2017, 02:55:18 PM »
Finally this thread is continuing with some progress! I got some steel today!


Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #28 on: July 05, 2017, 03:40:39 PM »
Revived!!

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #29 on: July 09, 2017, 06:33:27 PM »
I cut the 4 pieces of 5" channel that make the perimeter of the frame. I was originally going to put the sides with the flat side out, and butt them against the front and end pieces which would have the flange out. I'm wondering now if I should  miter them all at 45 deg and have the flat side out all the way around. Any thoughts from the welders here?

I guess it's really more of a T-joint I'm planning on. Cut the front and the rear piece 3/8" too wide to that there'd be 3/16" on each side for a little more meat to weld into. Thought this might be better versus a corner joint there it would be flush.

« Last Edit: July 09, 2017, 08:41:32 PM by rcampbell »

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #30 on: July 09, 2017, 09:30:25 PM »
If using channel for the frame, I personally like the C facing inward or flat side out. The only reason I prefer it this way is for attaching 4" straps for tying down steel. The hook on this straps wraps over the side and under hooking into the open C facing inward. Structurally the C doesn't care which way it faces.
Learn the rules like a pro so that you can break them like an artist -Pablo Picasso-

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #31 on: July 10, 2017, 06:54:38 AM »
I will have the flat side out for the sides, but thought I might put the "C" part out for the ends just because it can be a bit of a pain to get the fitment right on a 45 mitre. Good point about being able to use the flanges to hook onto though, I never really thought to do that before.

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #32 on: July 10, 2017, 07:47:33 AM »
I would do the front and rear the same way so that you can strap to them.  Not sure what you have for tools to work with but I would cut one rail to fit inside to the other.  This approach gives for area to weld.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #33 on: July 10, 2017, 08:10:44 AM »
Any coping would be with cut off wheels. I have a 4" grinder and a 5" grinder and a chop saw.

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #34 on: July 10, 2017, 08:37:31 AM »
I would do the front and rear the same way so that you can strap to them.  Not sure what you have for tools to work with but I would cut one rail to fit inside to the other.  This approach gives for area to weld.

This ^^^^^^ Not sure on strength difference at joint per say and definitely more work but I personally think it makes a cleaner build. If you drill a couple strategically placed holes to start and use cut off wheels on a grinder you should easily be able to cut the profile on the ends of the channel that fit inside the other.
Learn the rules like a pro so that you can break them like an artist -Pablo Picasso-

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #35 on: July 10, 2017, 08:47:04 AM »
You would be getting weld in multiple planes instead of only a single plane.  If you just do a miter all your cut/ welds are on a single plane.  If you notch to fit inside each other you have weld in multiple planes.  Not only do you increase the amount of area welded but arguably you increase the quality of the welds.  Instead of just having a flat butt joint on the mitered edges you have a T-joint where you notched them to fit.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #36 on: July 10, 2017, 10:36:56 AM »
Ok that makes sense to me. Would it matter which one get's coped? I only ask because it's likely easier to wrangle the 7' piece rather than the 18' piece of steel.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #37 on: July 10, 2017, 10:40:19 AM »
So Bear, just as an example, you're describing something like in this picture with the coped joint correct?


Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #38 on: July 10, 2017, 11:08:01 AM »
Yes.  If you wanted to get fancy you and probably for the strongest joint you could cope the top side of one leg and the bottom of the other.  In reality it matters very little which one.

Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #39 on: July 10, 2017, 11:14:00 PM »
Yes.  If you wanted to get fancy you and probably for the strongest joint you could cope the top side of one leg and the bottom of the other.  In reality it matters very little which one.

 :likebutton:

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #40 on: July 11, 2017, 07:37:29 AM »
Well, I didn't "get fancy". But I did get the side pieces coped to fit into the end pieces. I tried to leave a small gap to help with welding penetration, I think it turned out ok. Here's some pics of the two front corners.








Online KensAuto

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #41 on: July 11, 2017, 11:02:14 AM »
Nothing wrong with that. Looks good.

Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #42 on: July 11, 2017, 01:08:03 PM »
Fit looks good.  I would just suggest you hit the welded areas with a grinder to clean up to raw metal before welding.  Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of a chamfer to the thick part of the flange also to get full penetration on your welds.

Offline dave945

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #43 on: July 11, 2017, 01:28:59 PM »
Looks like a fun project and your fit looks great. Welding and fabrication are skills I am currently lacking in. I'm hoping to get a welding rig in the semi near future when I get into the more spacious garage.  It's something I've always wanted to learn and try my hand at. 

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #44 on: July 11, 2017, 02:51:49 PM »
Fit looks good.  I would just suggest you hit the welded areas with a grinder to clean up to raw metal before welding.  Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of a chamfer to the thick part of the flange also to get full penetration on your welds.

Yessir that's the plan. I have some flap wheels I got to try out for cleaning off surface rust etc.

Online Flyin6

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #45 on: July 11, 2017, 02:54:35 PM »
Good copin'!

Not like how the libs are copin' with trump

Not like that at all!
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Offline Bear9350

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #46 on: July 11, 2017, 03:12:24 PM »
I wouldn't waste good money on flap wheels.  I would just clean it up with a hard wheel.  Mill scale can be hard to grind off.  If you want to make it look pretty go back and remove all the grinding marks from the hard wheel before paint where they are visible. 

Online stlaser

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #47 on: July 11, 2017, 04:19:51 PM »
I wouldn't waste good money on flap wheels.  I would just clean it up with a hard wheel.  Mill scale can be hard to grind off.  If you want to make it look pretty go back and remove all the grinding marks from the hard wheel before paint where they are visible.

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Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #48 on: July 11, 2017, 09:26:58 PM »
Got a corner squared up and held in place, was going to tack it and see how it looked. Got the welder, wheel it over, went to plug it in....need about 10 more feet of cable :(

Will get an extension and get at it tomorrow hopefully!

Offline rcampbell

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Re: Car Hauler Trailer Build
« Reply #49 on: July 13, 2017, 09:16:48 PM »
I picked up a welder extension cord today so that I could continue my work and get things tacked up and in place.

I started first on one of the back corners. I check for level side-to-side, front-to-back, and up-and-down, and also squared the corners. Everything is looking pretty good so far.



I then cut a couple cross members and got those tacked into place as well. All the while checking that the main frame was staying level and square, as well as the cross members themselves.



Btw...anyone ever tack up a crossmember, and then afterwords remember that you start by building the trailer upside down? Yeah...me neither...