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Generator questions

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Wilbur:

--- Quote from: rpar86 on September 15, 2016, 01:11:58 PM ---Wilber,
The first thing to ask yourself is, what do I absolutely need to power during an outage? Fridge, freezer, heat, a few lights. You wouldn't probably want to run a stove or clothes dryer off a genset.

No, you do not need to supply a full 100 (or 200) amp just because that is what the house has. It is always about what you're actually going to connect and use at any given time. Keep in mind having some 'reserve' space so you can turn on a few extra lights, or when the fridge compressor kicks in.

The 8kw standby unit is a nice choice for no reason other than it is automatic -- easy for the wife (not knowing how technical she is). Portable is nice if you need to use it elsewhere at times.

Transfer switches are not hard to wire in if you are comfortable working on electrical (though you plan to have an electrician do it anyway) -- you select the 6-8 circuits you want to power and re-route those wires to the transfer panel. The transfer panel then connects to the main panel with a 50 or 60amp breaker, maybe larger (essentially becomes a subpanel), that you turn off when using the genny. There is some degree of know-how needed here to make sure the correct breakers are shut off as to not back-feed to the power lines. A step-by-step document posted next to the panel is a good idea. **Automatic transfer switches make this a lot simpler.**

FWIW, i'd almost go with two smaller units, like the Honda, that can run parallel to provide mo-power. Quiet, easier to start (bigger ones have electric start so this becomes a moot point), easier to move, etc.

With all the low wattage bulbs and more efficient appliances today, you COULD probably run an entire house off of 8000W no problem. I had a 5500W that ran my furnace fan, two fridges, microwave at times and various lights no problem. Water heater, range, and furnace heat are all NG though.

If you're having an electrician do the install anyway, you may ask if he can provide a pre-install recommendation for what you need.

I would NOT recommend running sensitive electronics (TV, computers, etc) off of a generator unless it were an inverter style generator.

--- End quote ---

Thanks Ryan- this is very helpful. A big piece of this is that I want it easy for the wife in case I am not home for some reason. So the autostart feature of the true stand by makes sense to me.

This series of standby has (according to Generac) less than 5% harmonic distortion (see how I said that like I knew what the he** it means?  ::) ) and is suitable for electronics etc. I did know that issue existed with "regular" generators that the power spikes can be problematic unless you get an inverter generator.

Add to that what Don said about fuel and that's another plus for the LP fired standby.

I would/should be able to run the stove with it as I am converting to gas stove and the "high water" mark I used for calcs was with an electric stove so shouldn't be a worry there. 

Ironically I have been in this house since 95 and this was only the 2nd power outage we ever had. We had one that lasted about two or three hours but other than that I have not lost power even one time. Course that one time was a bitch. Well.....not for me I was in a hotel in SF! ha. (My wife doesn't come to this forum or I'd be on the couch tonight....haha.  8) )

Thanks everyone I do appreciate the feedback!

EL TATE:
I've got a briggs-stratton 5500 http://www.searsoutlet.com/Storm-Responder-5500-Watt-Generator-Non-CA/d/product_details.jsp?pid=8487 that I've been running since 2008. Had the gen-tran panel wired so HH6 can simply flip the main off, and turn on the 5 selected circuits for stove, fridge a few outlets and the electric blower on the gas fireplace. She just rolls it out the garage to the driveway and it fires up on the first pull every time. (lots of trees and wind in November. we've got buried cables but the surrounding neighborhoods don't) couldn't complain about it for nothing.

DDS:
I'd search CL for a generator. I have a Kohler 12KW lp generator I purchased slightly used off of CL for $2K. My house is 1300 sq/ft. I can(& have tried for testing) turn on every possible thing in the house & it doesn't skip a beat. Keep in mind, just a hair dryer & iron uses about 2.3KW when turned on. I wasn't going to tell her she can't use that stuff when the generator is running, not worth the argument.

kampfitt:
If you want it for backup when your not home then only way to go is the true standby. You can get down to 8kw and a auto transfer switch for the whole house, uses less propane but costs more I've found 11kw with 200 amp whole house transfer switch to be about the best price combo.
Here are some of the ones I looked at
http://www.norwall.com/products/11kW-Generac-Guardian-7033-Home-Standby-Generator-with-200-Amp-Whole-House-ATS
http://www.norwall.com/products/10kW-Home-Generator-NGLP-and-200-Amp-Service-Rated-ATS-with-Symphony-II-Power-Management-by-Briggs-and-Stratton-40450
The Briggs uses a little less fuel 1.82 gph , Generac 2.01 gph

Wilbur:
thanks for the comments guys.....a friend recommended this to me:

http://www.generlink.com/about_generlink.cfm

Its a unit that gets wired behind the meter and provides the isolation. Then he just flips the breakers he wants to run based on his needs and he's GTG. No wiring of a sub-panel etc. Sounded good but the website doesn't tell the cost of it (or if it does I couldn't find it).....so I called them...the 30 amp non-surge is $550 and the 40 amp non-surge is $650. Buuuuut....my local power company won't allow its installation.  >:(

So I'm back to looking at true standby's or something.

kampfit thanks for the links.....the price is the same as Northern Tool's....good to double check prices on something like this. Still not sure which way I'm going to go yet....

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