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Author Topic: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]  (Read 70848 times)

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Online KensAuto

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Holton from Alligator called me last night when he got my email about the missing block off plate.
He's a good guy who cares about his customers and stuff exactly like this shows it.
He is sending me a coated block off plate 2nd day, so I'll have it by Friday

Here's some photos of what the EGR delete looks like
Missing are 4 hose clamps and the block off plate.
Of course the down pipe is a part of my installation since it will have to come out anyway, then why not replace it with the good stuff.






Quote:
Originally Posted by L****
"What is the hose for in the 2nd post?"

First of all, my caveat
I have not installed this before and am no expert, in fact I am yet to reach novice status.
However
Over several conversations with Holton at Alligator who worked on development of this kit, with what I have and will shortly receive (the actual block off plate) can completely eliminate the EGR system. Those rubber hoses must (Speculation) be a part of the re-route of engine coolant that used to go to the EGR coolers, which have or will shortly find their way to the scrap metal recycler. You actually remove all that stuff in lieu of just blocking off and retaining the now unused components.

Posted by Guyton:
on the LMLs there's 2 coolant lines, one for the 1st cooler and one for the 2nd cooler. the blue line is for the 2nd cooler when it gets removed. the larger black line is for the first one that resembles the LMM EGR cooler if you was to delete it, almost the same as the LMMs but still way different.

as for your plate Don, you'll have it tomorrow buddy.



Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto 
"so you delete both coolers with the kit? that would sure free up some space!

and don, is that an 'uppipe' in the pic? u said something about a down pipe...or is that just part of the delete kit "

Yes, Ken you completely remove both coolers
And
Yes that is the supplied up pipe, passenger side
I mentioned a down pipe, because I will be removing the stocker and replacing it with the Alligator pipe at the same time, since I would have to remove it anyway.
The down pipe is not included in the kit, but something I've had for a month or so awaiting install.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2014, 09:03:51 AM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2014, 11:18:09 PM »
Update time gentlemens                                                                                               (2334)
(I know gentlemens is not proper, but I's using it anyway)
(I know I's is improper as well!)

Holton sent me this really cool looking block off plate. I will say that powder coating has gotten much better!
I haven't been able to get started on the EGR delete this week yet because of a rash of appointments and prior commitments. I think I am going to have to rent a car so that the truck can be down over a few days while I grab an hour here and there to get this stuff installed.
I ordered a bunch more stuff today so the projects are still coming at a good rate.
I will be installing the EGR block off
Then I decided to install an AMP Research step. However in keeping with my "fix everything even if it works fine" approach. I am going to modify the step. I plan to plate the underside with 3/16" steel to allow it to scrape ofer Kias and Daewoos and construct a steel support structure that the step can fold up against that will support the vehicle weight.
I finally decided to go with the electric step instead of my proposed rock rail/step system after suffering from a significant hearing loss in my right ear. That's the ear closest to my wife!
I also purchased the Cognito upper control arm, and Holton was able to source me some Rare parts tie rods which just came out as well. THe idea here will be to increase the front suspension travel. All those parts will allow significantly more droop-out.
Holton sold me some neat front sway bar end links which are super beefy.
Finally, I stepped up to the plate and purchased the Hypertech speedo in line calibrator. No one can tell me if it will work with the H&S XT Pro I run, so I'm going have to be the guinnie pig. At least when I get that sucker installed, we will finally know for sure.
Lastly I didn't order them yet, but I am looking at either some exhaust manifolds and up pipes or H2O/Methanol injection to keep things safe.
So that's the plan for the fall.
Oh
Forgot to mention
Road Armor finished the new rear bumper build minus the frame brackets. They will be shipping that to me and I'll finally be bolting that puppy on!
YIPPEE
So lots of good stuff on the horizion as long as I don't get lazy and slow down even more! 
« Last Edit: November 09, 2014, 12:24:10 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2014, 12:42:05 PM »
OK, boys and girls here we go again, day 1 of the EGR delete and Alligator down pipe install.
Day 1 because with all the appointments I am working around, it will probably take me until Saturday to finish everything.
This is a medium difficulty task which is very laborous. It's a case where there is quite a bit to do and it seems almost every fastner is a bear to get to. There are some I will need to remove tomorrow which I can't even see. I will have to remove them totally by feel.
I started by removing the right wheel well splash liner again and worked in that area for awhile.



In this area you basically remove everything you can get a wrench on.





And then the passenger up-pipe lower flange bolts



With the bolts and the fuel injector removed, I moved up to the engine bay area. Beginning with the air filter inlet duct, my plan was to "work to uncover things." That meant getting the air duct out of there then move to the aluminum inlet "S" pipe



Next I went for the turbo inlet assembly. That plastic elbow is held in place by another V-band clamp. It is very difficult to see so when I loosened it, I was not able to remove the elbow. So I then decided to remove the EGR hot air pipe to see if that freed up some room.



The elbow was still loose but stuck so I thought I would try to remove the front of the two EGR coolers. I first removed the EGR valve motor assembly. None of these parts will be reused 



That didn't help, and upon further examination, I could see that removing that front cooler was going to be pretty difficult, so for the second time I called Holton at Alligator. He clued me in to the fact that the V-band clamp needed to be loosened all the way, which I did. After having done that, and removing the PCV valve from the inlet, the elbow came right out!


Right about then the UPS guy showed up with a couple of boxes. I opened them to find these cool parts all oiled up and bubble wrapped inside. These parts are for the build up of that bump-fire M4 I am going to put together soon.


OK, back to the business at hand. Next I started removing everything connected to the downpipe, and the turbo heat shield as well.
I purchased a special double hinged ratchet and already had the O2 sensor socket which is shown here and makes removing our sensor a snap. THat O2 sensor will not be reused.







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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2014, 12:48:30 PM »
Next the actual heat shield is removed



With the heat shield out of there the down pipe remaining sensor and V-band can be removed. I actually removed the down pipe with the heat shield still attached by persuading it downward with a length of steel pipe and a rubber mallet.



Back to the top side, I went after the rubber coolant lines, disconnecting and removing them as well.




More hose removal:





I noticed that not very much dexi-cool anti freeze actually leaks when removing all this stuff so the mess is not too much to handle.
Here's a shot of the bed of the truck which is serving as temporary parts storage. It's filling up! Most of the rusty iron stuff will not be reused!


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2014, 12:51:45 PM »
                                                                                                                                             (2394)
The plan is to resume the EGR removal tomorrow morning. It will be the most difficult part of the whole delete procedure. Every bolt I have to go for can not be seen directly. Take a look at the two engine pics Holton sent me. When you're looking ath your engine that plastic hat is about a foot above the turbocharger. The turbo is also well aft of that hat with all of the exhaust part of it located well under the cowl and firewall...Yea, starting to get the picture?
So while doing the contortionist thing you will have to remove 8 bolts which are really on tight totally from feel. The only time you will ever be able to see them is when you finally get them out.




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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2014, 12:55:24 PM »
First, thanks Ashley, sometimes that's all it takes!

OK, let's get on with day 2 of the EGR delete.
After 9 hours the first day and 8 fatiguing hard, hard hours the second I am still not done.
Unequivocally this is by far the hardest thing I have ever done on this truck. It rivals or surpasses almost anything memory can serve up. This delete is definately not for the timid. It is world class hard, period!

So knowing that I had to tackle those feel only bolts I started with removal of the remaining heat shield. There is one covering the EGR portion of the passenger up pipe and one over the turbo exhaust side.


I thought the best way to tackle the hard stuff was the hardest stuff first. In retrospect I still don't know which was the hardest, with each bolt removed feeling like a hard won victory. The up pipe has three bolts securing it to the back of the EGR cooler assembly. If you look carefully in the picture you can just barely see my ratchet buried way up inside the firewall. You can't see the botl head, you just have to find it by feel. I used a mirror to look at it first to give me a general idea where to hunt. You can only get one of the three from below


Moving top side you now can loosen and remove the remaining two flange bolts. Next remove all of the EGR cooler mount bolts and the remaining rubber coolant lines. This precise tool helps with getting stuff out of the way!

When everything is disconnected a little movement can be had. The whole big heavy coolant filled L shaped cooler comes out as one unit.





Then all at once the truck lets out a sigh of relief and the massive thing is free. I remounted it semi permanently on the floor!
Along with the cooler assembly the aft mount comes out as well.




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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #6 on: November 09, 2014, 01:00:50 PM »
Next you can finally tackle the up pipe. You will need an assortment of 12mm 12pt. wrenches plus a can of spinich. Those bolts are torqued to several million ft. pounds and will create a decent hernia if you don't have one already!
The old up pipe is a mess and gets in the way. I decided to saw off the upper extension to gain some room.



After another hour of speaking your favorite french in which I became fluent all over again, you can finally drop that passenger up pipe onto the floor!




At this point the engine is getting a lot less cluttered. It's still cluttered, just not several layers on it like before.


This the point where you finally start reassembly. I started with installing the new up pipe reusing the old stainless gaskets


Next part going on is the new down pipe, an alligator diesel part supplied by my trusty friend, Holton. I'm sure he (Holton) is no with us at the moment, he surely passed out when reading the thread and coming to the part where I showed the hammer!
To install the down pipe, all you really need to do is push the firewall in about a half inch where the down pipe would contact it. This will ease installation. Installing it with all the junk out of the way is not that difficult.






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2014, 01:06:57 PM »
Next I tackled the first of two water lines. The firewall connection is now connected to a coolant pipe coming up from the engine block right beside the turbo. Taking the supplied "L" pipe which has two different diameters, I trimmed it to fit, silicone sprayed the nipples and slid it home and clamped it tightly.






Next the front to passenger side smaller diameter but longer hose was fastened in place




I removed the unused 9th injector nozzle and supply line from near where the hard line attaches to the actual injector which sits on the valve cover in a cradle. I want to get rid of the injector as well, but for now this is as far as I am going for now


This is what the engine bay looks like at the moment, along with all the parts removed that will not be reused, and the truck sitting helplessly in the garage for another night.



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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #8 on: November 09, 2014, 01:32:59 PM »
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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #9 on: November 09, 2014, 01:37:40 PM »
I finished the EGR delete today
I picked up where I left off yesterday first finishing tieing off the water bypass hoses and properly securing them to prevent chaffing.

With that complete it was time to install the Alligator Diesel block off plate that Holton supplied which is an easy task with everything out of the way.





Reusing the old gaskets and bolts, it is a simple install taking only a couple minutes.
That plate measured .260" in thickness so we're looking at 1/4" plate steel nicely powder coated.
For some reason the plate looks black in the photo, but it is silver spotted over black, a unique finish to say the least.



Next the turbo intake elbow goes on


Then the silver "S" pipe
...and everything else.
I refilled the approximately 1.5 quarts of Dexi-cool radiator fluid, checked everything and fired it up
To get the small bolt into the mount under the butterfly valve I came up with this technique. That's one of the bolts you can't really see. This technique worked just fine






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2014, 01:39:28 PM »
                                                                                                                  (2441)
Quote:
Originally Posted by f*********
"Suggestion for the next mod: 3" driver's side intercooler pipe."


OK, fine!

Actually, Holton talked me out of it for the moment.
Next is the Rare parts tie rods and the Cognito upper control arms.
Right after that is the Amp Research steps.
As I explained earlier, I plan to "Up-Armor" the Amp steps so they can take a real beating.
Then I am installing a hypertech inline speedo calibrator
You see, I already ordered all that stuff and I have tracking numbers on it.

On that intercooler pipe, I have plans to install twins, so we are sort of waiting until they come out to see if that pipe will still work. I assume it will, but who knows???
I am also short final to getting the new Road Armor rear bumper. They have already built it and should be shipping it to me pretty soon. That will be an awesome addition.
Later when it gets cold, I will be fabbing up a rear tire carrier to weld to that beautiful bumper. I just don't want to do any heavy duty fab work while it's still warm.
Anyway that is the current lineup...
« Last Edit: November 09, 2014, 01:41:11 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2014, 07:23:49 PM »
I have my first post EGR delete drive impressions
First, the truck sounds healthy and runs great. I'm sure a lot of it is psychological and not actual, but I T H I N K the engine runs mo-better. That's a highly technical term, please don't ask me to elaborate!

Secondly the mileage has increased a solid 1 mpg!!!!! That's a 5% increase in economy. Before I did the delete, I was always averaging 18.9-19.0 on a given loop. Today with all things being equal except that the temp is about 10-12 degrees cooler, the mileage indicated 20.0! That was for 70% highway, 20% in town and 10% rural. I was running the air conditioner and driving at 70-75 mph actual.

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2014, 10:52:20 PM »
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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2014, 10:57:41 PM »
OK back to the build, at least for awhile
Just got the next batch of parts in.
Here are the Rare Parts Heavy duty tie rod assemblies
and
The Cognito upper control arms with a ball joint




Next is the gear oil for the rear axle and an oil sample kit I picked up from Willie (MrManners)




There are a couple more parts as well, including the hypertech speedo calibrator and a cool billet set of sway bar end links.

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #14 on: November 10, 2014, 11:00:35 PM »
I wanted to share this private conversation where Ashley asked a question whose answer would be of benefit to all:

Originally Posted by Armalite
"Don, what's the reasoning behind the cognito uca's? I know what you're trying to accomplish in the front end, so I'm assuming this is a needed part to get to that final point? Just curious why you already have the lift, but now you're swapping uca's out to cognito? Ready to see it all take place".


Well, as I dive deeper into this project the weaknesses of the design (few as they are) are showing up, all in view of what I want to do. So imagine you are being chased by some enraged people and you decide to leave the highway at say 70 mph. You will need significantly more suspension travel to accommodate. The stock truck like most gives us what 5"-6" travel. The limiting factors are exceedence of critical ball joint angles, tie rod angles, CV joint, and then finally with shock travel and bottoming out on a bump stop.
I plan to address each one of these issues and to do something never before done. In addition to everything I want to invent a disconnecting sway bar like the Dodge power wagon has.
So I have a lot more shock travel, enough to max out the ball joint, which is next. The cognito arms will immediately correct for this and even allow me a tad bit more caster. That's why the cognitos and the rare parts tie rods are going on next. When it is all done it will look alot like stock, but should perform about 100% better.
If you don't mind, I'm going to post my response in my thread to share with everyone, cool?


Quote:
Originally Posted by D*********
"Did you go with the ball joint or uniball UCA?"



Knucklehead !

From a few posts ago:

OK back to the build, at least for awhile
Just got the next batch of parts in.
Here are the Rare Parts Heavy duty tie rod assemblies
and
The Cognito upper control arms with a ball joint


Sorry, couldn't resist...Say how did you do with reading comprehension? Man, sorry again, I'm just beating you all about the head and shoulders...
My bad, I'm a terrible guy!

OK, enough coffee induced fun (CIF) I went with the ball joints on purpose. I have A LOT of experience with uniballs, rod ends and the like over a few decades in whirly birds. That's how all that really fast moving junk over my head is held in place. Obviously I have put all of that stuff through it's paces in all sorts of the same environment as our trucks see. Dirt?? Dust landings! Salt? Hovering over the ocean at low altitude and sometimes actually landing in salt water! Sticks, debris and so forth: Landing in the woods, 7.62mm bullets: Oh, sorry we don't have that here yet!
Anyway with all that stuff and my experience I have to say exposed spherical balls and races don't always do well in those environments. Don't care you can carve the ball out of refried stellar matter plated with kryptonite (No such real stuff guys, so stay with me) and it will wear. But for some reason you slap on a generous coat of grease and nothing gets to it! Heck you can hoist up a cannon from the ocean depths that has rested there for a few centuries and if it has a coat of grease on it, you can dry the thing out, load up powder and ball and take on the Haitian navy. OK, maybe that's a stretch, the Haitians don't have a navy, but you get the idea.
Nosir, I am using the good old non-sexy spong-bob-square-pants ball joint!
Good thing I was able to give you a short answer!!

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #15 on: November 10, 2014, 11:05:02 PM »
Today, I installed the Hypertech speedometer inline calibration unit.
There has always been a question as to whether this unit is compatible with H&S tuning. When I called to discuss it with the H&S folks, mum was the word. Nobody knew anything.
Left out in the cold as we who have different tire sizes are with the H&S inability to calibrate for the change we have had to contend with an inaccurate speedo.
Well, I am happy to report we no longer have a problem! The Hypertech unit works seamlessly with the H&S tuner!
It is a simple install which I will detail in the next few posts.
First you install the CD into your computer, attach the module with the USB to micro usb cable and do the calibration. I calibrated my speedometer for both tire size change and a gear change.
Later testing showed accuracy in the plus to minus 1 mph range. That's plenty good enough to consider accurate. I tested the speedo reading to my GPS speed and found all speeds to be within 1 to 1.5 mph from creeping along up to 80 mph!
Here's what comes in the box, plus the CD:


Begin by removing the left and right trom pieces. They pop out carefully (Ashley) using a broad blade pry bar.





Pry very carefully! (Ashley)


Next remove the 4 screws holding in the cluster trim piece and remove it






« Last Edit: November 10, 2014, 11:06:03 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #16 on: November 10, 2014, 11:22:58 PM »
Unsnap the steering column top trim piece and remove it. unbolt the cluster topside screws then start to gently (Ashley) pull out the bezel trim piece.





Remove the remaining two lower screws and wiggle out the instrument cluster. On the back is a single multi wire attachment. Unplug that and the instrument cluster will be free.





Installing the module is a snap (literally) just plugs together and reassembly begins




I tidied things up and reassembled the cluster and reinstalled the trim pieces .






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #17 on: November 10, 2014, 11:25:34 PM »
I test drove the truck for about 30 minutes. The speedometer was almost dead on and not so much as a check engine light. The various pictures show the closeness of the GPS speed with the speedo speed.
This is a great mod. I owe Holton at Alligator a debt of gratitude for making this possible. He supplies me the parts at great prices and is always calling to check up on the install and following up. Just today, he called again to check if I was happy with the EGR delete mod, which I am overjoyed with.
This truck is just running great now!





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #18 on: November 10, 2014, 11:28:26 PM »
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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #19 on: November 10, 2014, 11:31:03 PM »
All right boys and girls, off to another modification. Today I will be installing the Cognito upper control arms (UCA) and start to install the Rare parts tie rods. Once you get into the writeup, you'll see why I just started and am not finished yet.

So first we begin by removing the wheels, placing the beast on sturdy jack stands and pulling off the factory arms.




Removal is straight forward and the loss of blood vs actual work acomplished ratio is pretty good, actually excellent, rivalling a great shave with a new razor blade!

The factory arms are no match for the mighty Cognito parts!







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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #20 on: November 10, 2014, 11:42:18 PM »
                                                                                                                    (2560)
You need to assemble the Cognito arm bushings and ball joint before it is ready to install. I used WD-40 and a rubber mallet to install the first half of the poly bushing, then my handy vise as a make-shift press to push in the other half.





And still more straight forward assembly, all very easy.
I gave all exposed metal parts and bolts a coat of EastWood "Shark Hide" to protect against corrosion.





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #21 on: November 11, 2014, 08:41:11 PM »
Paying attention to the details, I prelubed everything with lithium grease and wiggled the new arm into place. First I tapped the bushing slots a bit with a hammer to gently spread them a tiny bit to make the arms easier to slide in. It worked, as they went in with just enough resistance.





Same with the other side. It, too, was an easy install. You only need to pay attention to details to make this a clean easy install.




I only snugged the bushing bolts slightly to allow them to turn in their mounts on the drive over to the alignment shop. THat way when the tech tightens everything up after settling has taken place, the bushings should be in a "neutral" position and able to flex more freely in both directions.
So, other than the alignment, that's it folks, I'm cognitoed up!
In the photos notice how flat the ball joint is at ride height, just perfect. I also noted the control arm has extra clearance from contacting that bothersome upper travel limiter that is responsible for horible rides on torsion bar cranked lifts (bad idea!)





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #22 on: November 11, 2014, 08:44:39 PM »
Next we are going to get into the new Rare Parts tie rods. The news is going to be mixed for me at least, and I discovered a problem that no one a=over at Rare Parts or Holton, for that matter could have forseen.
Note: PAY ATTENTION: These replacement tie rods are designed to replace stock tie rod assemblies. They may or possibly may not fit a non stock, lifted application. I discovered that they will not fit the Fabtech spindle, at least not yet, but I have a plan!
I started by pulling off the stocker then did a good side by side. See any differences?





If you answered that the Rare parts tie rod assembly is much beefier, you would be correct. Stock is .690" in diameter, where as the Rare parts is a full 1". Yep, thats .310 more diameter to yank on before impending doom.

If you also answered that the Rare parts is too long, again, you would be correct! Now here is where it gets confusing. I had previously removed 3/8" from the factory tie rod IAW Fabtech's installation instructions. Measuring it all out the Rare Parts tie rod was exactly 1" too long. If you subtract the 3/8" from the total length, the rare parts tie rod would still be 5/8" too long.

That is pretty easy to fix, simply cut 1" off of both the sleeve and the stud end of the tie rod and bolt it in like it never happened. That's what I decided to do.






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #23 on: November 11, 2014, 08:46:10 PM »
At this point I bolted the two halves back together and reinstalled the new tie rod assembly into the truck. That's when I discovered the next issue. The fabtech spindle came with a new tie rod end and the size of the fabtech tapered stud was larger than the stock LML. Therefore when I dropped in the Rare Parts tie rod into the spindle it all but fell through. It was way too small diameter. In fact I measured the small end of the rare parts taper at .590"
THe small end of the fabtech tapered hole measured .680"
That makes the hole about a tenth of an inch too big.

At this point I called Glen at Rare Parts and discussed the problem I was having. The taper size has nothing to do with them, and is attributed only to the fact that Fabtech decided to use bigger, stronger tie rods than even the factory larger LML parts. We were both miffed (confused) by the length issue. He measured his tie rod at about 15". I measured my modified assembly at 13 9/16". So his probably does fit stockers but will require modification to fit with fabtech lifts and maybe others as well??
Glen was a real stand up guy. We figured out that we needed a tapered spacer bushing. During an earlier call with Holton, we both came to the same conclusion. Anyway, Glen is going to machine me up a set to drop in the fabtech spindle so I can continue with installing his excellent tie rod assemblies.
SO this not done, more to come. I decided to make one more adjustment to the tie rods before throwing in the towell tonight:


I ran out of time but intended to install these excellent sway bar end links to replace the flimsly stockers. There cool parts actually have a swivel ball on one end to allow for flexing without binding. How cool is that!





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2014, 08:47:03 PM »
Resting back on the ground, here's what it looks like prior to alignment:

Also, I took some measurments of the suspension to see how much movement I am getting. Bottom line is NOT MUCH!
Sitting on the ground the shock shows 3.5" extension. Jacking up on the frame until the wheel hangs freely, the shock extends to 5" (Pathetic!! 1.5" droop!)
I then jacked the truck up under the lower control arm until the tire was 6" off the ground. I measured the shock to have exactly the same 3.5" of shaft exposed! W H A T???? No up travel? Now I know when you load it up with say, hitting a bump, you are going to get some more travel, but so far I would rate this stiff suspension as a third a point less than awful!
I started looking for bind points and several were immediately noticeable. First the stock UCA bushings are super stiff and flex ver little. I had to really force the stock UCA to move at all even when disconnected from the spindle. When I loosened up the bushing bolts, it freed right up! So the Cognito UCA will fix that.
The stocker is limited down big time by that droop stop protrusion from the frame. At some future point mine will have a date with a saw!
It seems the sway bar is really holding things up as well, so that is going to get some attention. NExt the tie rods don't have all that much more down travel before the angle maxes out. I'm going after the lower bump stops tomorrow, removing about an inch from them.
Hold it, I hear something from the garage...It's a voice... "free at last, free at last, free at last!





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #25 on: November 11, 2014, 08:49:25 PM »
Ordered these tonight from Rick over at ProFab performance.
I believe Holton has actually bolted a set of these manifolds onto an LML truck, but talking to Rick, he has not. So other than the Alligator guys, I will be the next to bolt this setup onto a LML truck. I plan to have them coated along with the up pipes, so it will get even prettier under the hood than before!






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #26 on: November 11, 2014, 08:54:13 PM »
Today I also added 50 horsepower to my survival rig set up. I didn't actually add any horsepower to my duramax, but to the thing that could be on the trailer behind it!
Purchased a John Deere 825 Gator in olive drab and black. No shine on it at all. I ordered the fox off road shocks, the high performance exhaust and all the armor they sell. I also outfitted it with all their lights, aluminum (black) wheels, and a couple other things.
I have owned a gator for quite awhile. I also own a 850D diesel gator that will run on anything, goes like a banschee cross country and will start and run on liquid chicken grease. I don't know if I'll keep the diesel, but right now I'm thinking of keeping them both, and making the 825 a tactical scout vehicle for quickie runs to town across varying cross country routes.






Quote:
Originally Posted by FC5452

"...... did that bullet help those tie rod ends any?"

 

Couldn't bring myself to actually pull the trigger. Last time I did that sort of thing it cost me a computer (for real!)


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #27 on: November 11, 2014, 08:58:39 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armalite
"Those gators are nice! Spent some time on one up in Illinois. Loved it ! Good purchase...


You going to let us in on what you will coat the manifolds with? "

Talking with Rick last night he had several products, or perhaps it was colors available.
In the past I always sent my headers to Jet-Hott Coatings to get them inside and outside flow coated. That process would aid the Duramax in two significant ways. First it does not transfer heat to the surrounding air aw well, meaning it keeps the engine bay a tad bit cooler. That could possibly account for less hear soaking of air inlet devices such as aluminum pipe, air bridge, and so forth. Secondly it then transfers more of that heat (energy) to the turbine blades possibly generating more force to turn the compressor. It also smooth's the interior metal surface somewhat by filling microscopic low spots. If you understand parasitic drag, that fact alone would speak volumes to you. Basically, the gasses passing over a smoother surface, do so with less friction creating more of a laminar flow. Graduate stuff there, sorry, but it's technical.
In terms I understand, coat the manifolds and the Powerstroke goes away out fo view in the rear view mirror mo-quicklier!

So, what I asked Rick to do was to do the manifolds in a bright silver and the up pipes in a titanium color. Why pretty silver you ask? Because if the manifolds ever develop a crack, the black sooty junk will show up very well on that silver backdrop! Why the titanium? No reason, I just liked the way Ti-Tane-e-um sounds!

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #28 on: November 11, 2014, 09:10:10 PM »
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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #29 on: November 11, 2014, 09:16:41 PM »
Did an install today, well, almost did one. I am installing a Kenwood GPS/cd/dvd/sirrus XM/tuner in the stock radio location. It's quite complicated and the instructions aren't all that clear. I also purchased an adapter to make all the factory stuff work, but as of 2200 tonight I still couldn't squeeze the thing in there and so far, no XM !
Will post it up tomorrow if I don't shoot it with that mossberg first!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmanners
"I did a similar setup on my wife's LBZ when we bought it. Fought with that thing nearly all day before I got it all to fit in the dash. Said many a bad word that day! Probably won't do another one. Too much of a pain even with the harnesses Crutchfield sells."


I'm with you exactly. I purchased it all from Crutchfield thinking it was a simple plug and play...errr...no...not so simple.
The problem is that the instructions are not clear at all. No where in those "Clear and helpful" instructions did it ever say you would not be using several of the supplied harnesses, and that only one actually worked. (Apparently they give you extra ones to drive up the price with obsolete equipment) So when it told me to start attaching the 22 pin harness I happily did so. Later when I noticed there was another 22 pin harness, I thought about the peanut butter rule. If you butter a slice of bread with peanut butter and then drop it, which side hits the floor? Yea, I know it's supposed to be a 50/50 probability. But we all know the sticky side hits the floor first, like as in always!
Same-same with the wiring harnesses. If two are identical and you select one to install, it will be the wrong one, but you will only discover that fact after it is all assembled (soldered together!)
Well, I try to find the positive and the good in everything, so from yesterday and last night I will say, I got a lot of practice soldering, stripping wires, and using shrink tubing, and it turned out better the second time I did it! I missed supper though, but what the hay, I'm a tad over fighting weight anyway, so that's all good, I guess?!
Then there is the problem with physics. There is one basic law that is giving me a fit at the moment, but when I figure out how to change that law, I'm in there. That would be the property concerning physical matter that says something about two pieces of matter can not occupy the same space at the same time. Hog wash! If that was true then none of these aftermarket radios with their attendant two miles of harness wires would ever fit, so right there is proof positive that that particular law is in error. And if that one is wrong, how many others are corrupted as well? I think I'm on to something here! Anyone who has read my book, there is a chapter where I discuss aerodynamics. I prove beyond some doubt that, that is all a bunch of bunk as well. Ever see a F-4 phantom fly? Nuff said, aerodynamics does not exist, it's all just power and some other undefined stuff! So I'll be back to the laboratory (garage) again in a few to start, well, continue, my efforts to disprove the laws of physics that this drunkard day dreaming hippie from hundreds of years ago, Isaac Newton, came up with one day while in a semi-conscious state of mind!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto
"do you have to call xm to register the new setup? I would also like to install a fancy setup in near future. kinda tired of working on the outside of the truck "

If this thing refuses to fit after a few more hours of pain and frustration, call me and I'll give it to you.
Of course, you'll have to deal with the extra 9 mounting holes I'll install in it with the mossberg, but you strike me as a smart guy, you'll figure it out!

(OO buckshot has 9 pellets per shot)

Quote:
Originally Posted by STLASER
"You know I've been thinking about this thread and noticed a problem. My theory is that you could have had the same truck for half the money if you wouldn't have a bought a running truck in the first place.  Because when your done their literally will not be anything left of the original truck anyhow". 

Stock's not good...
I'm only trying to fix it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto
"just try and miss the screen with those pellets!"

Believe it or not the thing is still not in! I cut the bow string off a compound bow and tied that to the harness which I then fished through the glove box and pulled on that while pushing back on the radio. I think some ejection seat parachutes are packed that tightly, well maybe not as tight as this radio will be. Heck if those screws ever let go, it will be like a 105mm coming out of that hole in the dash.
I had to walk away from it. Got on the new tractor and tore up stuff for awhile. It only cost me two maple trees this time! I'm going back out there in a moment. I unloaded the guns just in case it doesn't fit again.

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #30 on: November 11, 2014, 09:20:21 PM »
Over the next few posts, I detail the installation of an aftermarket combo in dash GPS, tuner, DVD/Cd player with MP3 capability and expanded data storage.
I selected the Kenwood 5190 head unit which has all the above capabilities. Additionally, with a specialized wiring harness, which costs extra, you can retain all the factory capilities.
I selected Crutchfield this time because I used them in the past, and always with good luck.
Here's what I got:




First using a large flat pry bar, gently (Ashley!) pry out the trim bezel starting at the bottom and working up and around. It comes off easily if you're gentle (Ashley!)





Pull out the 8-7mm screws and the radio, temp control, and accessory panels can be pulled out.
Then the radio simply unplugs






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #31 on: November 11, 2014, 09:25:14 PM »
The kenwood radio has a remote USB plug which I later ran into the open part of the console. I figure I'll coil it inside a cup holder and pull it out when I want to hook up to a lap top or thumb drive. I believe I can update the GPS which is a Garmin using this port.



Some advise here: Pay attention to which harness you are using or you will get a lot of practice like I did before you finally solder on the correct one.
In my opinion, that adapter harness Crutchfield supplied is a mess. Actually it's a nightmare. It has so many wires, you could easily make a mistake. It has so many wires that it takes up more physical space than the truck actually has to offer, so something has to give if you are to fit this monstrosity.



This project was truely no fun and I do not recommend doing it. To properly fit the radio, at least the Kenwood woth the required harness, you will need to cut access areas into the plastic liner the radios sit in. There is simply no way everything fits. I had to get creative when installing the new radio. I stuffed wires into every opening in that avionics bay. I even had to tie a cord to the harness, route that around the back of the dash, down through a labyrinth of cables, hoses, this and that. The purpose was to be able to pull on the cable harness while carefully working the Kenwood unit to it's mounting position. I worked a day and a half getting this radio in and finally only met with success after deciding to cut the plastic panels.


But as with anything you really work at long enough, the radio finally yielded, I sacrificed enough skin and blood, and the stuff found a new home.




Here's the plastic pieces I had to sacrifice at the alter of ill fitting parts to be able to move forward


Before / After:



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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #32 on: November 11, 2014, 09:29:06 PM »
Here's todays addition to the stable. The tractor is a John Deere 2720, 31 HP MFWD work horse...fits with the whole self sufficiency scheme. Not much in the way of electronics, but regretfully, some...

Next is the as delivered 825I gator, civil recon vehicle.
It's got a few goodies now but has a ton of stuff on order and coming in.
It will soon get:
Windshield, glass, with a wiper
Side body armor
Wrap around rear body armor
CV steel guards on all 4 lower control arms
Fox racing adjustable coil-overs
High performance exhaust
Hella mid range lighting
Somebody's long range spots
Roof mounted close in lighting
Tail light and turn signal kit
Winch

Then I plan to weaken the clutch spring and remove the speed sensor, which will allow for a 50+ top end
Add a power commander module +10%HP
Bolt on pioneer equipment
Bolt on fuel can(s) rack
Rifle mount
Tool kit and spare parts





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #33 on: November 11, 2014, 09:33:26 PM »
And on another topic. Guys I do like these Duramax diesels. So much so that you can see the evidence here on these hundreds of pages.
However, one EMP spike and that truck is an expensive parts bin or planter.
Because of that I am going to develop a backup vehicle. That truck will not be a D-Max, since they all have electronics. Nor will it be a crappy 6.2 or 6.5 GMC diesel.
It will be a diesel in the form of a 94-98 Dodge 3500 dually, Cummins manual trans truck. I do want a good spare that will run on chicken grease and start after a tac-nuke detonation or a good solar flare. I also have a diesel gator, 850D which is a reliable slower version of the much quicker 825I I just added to the collection.
ANyway, just throwing that out there, so when you see another build thread on a purist survivalist Cummins you won't get light headed and pass out.
OK, you've been warned.
Shawn, I can always plug that into that windmill/water pump thing you are building!


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #34 on: November 11, 2014, 09:35:45 PM »
Boys and girls it's CPT again (Cool Parts Time!)
Look what just showed at my house fresh out of the ovens at ProFab Performance, compliments of Rick who makes all this koul stuff!





Yepper, those would be a set of his cast performance manifolds and up pipes.
I wanted to show off some of his work there, so I asked Rick to coat the manifolds in silver and the up pipes in titanium. Silver because it will show cracks better, and titanium because I like it. Since I paid for them I guess I got to pick.






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #35 on: November 11, 2014, 09:38:59 PM »
Quality is right up there in the "as good as it gets" category, I found no casting flash, misaligned anything, nasty welds, and so forth. It seemed all welded joints had nice smooth inner transitions and it would appear that these things should flow like gang busters





He also supplies a good looking set of socket head stainless screws to thread those pretty manifolds into the D-Max cylinder heads!




It's difficult to tell from the poor photos, however each port is angled backward to nicely blend into the high velocity gasses. The factory manifold has awful right angles that is no doubt causing a lot of turbulence (poor flow). I would imagine these manifolds should provide better laminar flow, less turbulence which should allow the heat to pass along (Lower EGT's) to the turbine. THat extra heat will provide more "UMPH" to the turbine which will undoubtly make more power. That's a triple threat performance gainer and when it's buttoned up, ou won't even be able to see them ;-((





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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #36 on: November 11, 2014, 09:43:45 PM »
Change of venue
Let's get back to building
Today was a really easy project
Replacing the stock sway bar end links with a quality set of RCD suspension units.
These things are much beefier and feature a ball joint in one end to cope with the minor misalignment present in all suspensions. THat should eliminate a possible bind point and make them almost break proof!
I broke some on my Hummer once!
Here's what comes in the box:


Two bolts and the stockers come right off. I recommend loosening the sway bar mount bolts as well
Here's the stock stuff and the RCD parts



Here's some of the hardware stack up


And the units reinstalled:






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #37 on: November 11, 2014, 09:51:20 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin6
"Those tabs are fabtech parts.
I'm not done with this setup. I don't like the extensions. Basically they are reducing the effectiveness of the factory bar. I plan to do something with the bar itself and about then I think I'll can those tabs and redrill or weld in new tabs "


Posted by Armalite:
I know you're not even close to revealing your final product ! Those tabs just threw me off. Didnt look like something you would put on your truck, unless it came with the kit, and was the only way to make it work at the time. Wont be long and you'll have it back and better then before.


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #38 on: November 11, 2014, 09:51:37 PM »
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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #39 on: November 11, 2014, 10:07:18 PM »
.......OK, A couple predesone and about 8 hours and the swelling is still here (big time) however the pain abated.
So
I built that up pipe.
I'm going to post up how to do it if anyone wishes to do theirs as well. The one you see getting fabbed up here is free to the gentleman who I identified as needing it the most.
If you recall, I had taken a saw to the "Y" portion of the passenger pipe just to gain some working room. That's why it looks cut already. But this gives you an idea of what you will be working with.
















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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #40 on: November 11, 2014, 10:09:42 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin6
"Knowing this is stainless and will see short of 1700F I went over the corners with three quick drag passes to build up material to shed heat. I went over the other welds as well so what you see is actually two passes deep. I didn't try to make it pretty (obviously) but just pile on a lot of material to allow something to carry the heat.
So here is the pipe finished, wire brushed and ready to ship. Tony, if you want it, It's yours, will ship Monday. Just agree publically to do the same for the next guy and you are the new up pipe winner! "

Posted by FC5452:
For those that are following Don's thread, this is a testament to this mans personality. Between my personal life and my aspirations to make my own 600 hp duramax, I was we'll on my way to start. When an up pipe issue arose with the mfg with no expected turn around time for the distributor.
Don stepped up to the plate to do this for me, the intention was to be temporary in order for me to get the egr done and on the track by Oct 20th. When I got a permanent solution I would pass it on to the next guy, I agreed. When he finished I received the call the supplier, pipe is on the way. Therefore I do not need the one that he took the time to redo. For that Don I apologize openly here. It is only fair. As I stated you are a stand up individual, I don't know you from Adam, and you sure as hell didn't have to do this for me.
Long story short, Thank you.....
If there is anything I can do in return for your generosity please feel free to contact me.

Tony_P

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #41 on: November 11, 2014, 10:25:25 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by C****
"Don, any news you can share about the Road Armor rear bumper? I have been eagerly watching for it..."


Such a coincidence, I just got done looking at some pics of it that were just sent to me.
Here's the scoop on that. Road Armor moved to a larger facility and they are slowly gearing back up. THe bumper designer had to move, as in to a different state. He built the thing on paper, then finally got the parts laser cut and even tack welded together. THe bumper is not final welded or coated as of today, and the gentleman is having difficulty getting the welding gear fully installed and fired up.
He has sent me pics of the bumper several times now and I can say, I really like it. They promised the one that is tacked together at the moment to me and as we know that was supposed to happen months ago, however the difficulties have slid everything to the right substantially.
The pics I just looked at had it fitted to a 2008 1/2 ton silverado and it looks like it fits perfectly. It is winch capable, beefy as all get out and definately worth the wait.
THe engineer has asked me not to post the in process pics, so I have been closed hold with information. I don't know when it is coming, but IT IS COMING!


Quote:
Originally Posted by STLASER
"Have him ship it to me, we'll get it welded mo better!"


Ya know, if we sent it to you, it would be welded, plated in 1/2" battleship steel and reactive armor. Not saying any of that is bad of course, but you do over build stuff. I still believe when some archeologist digs up my truck in 3525 all they will find is a couple of gears held in place by that rear cover. Judging from the design of it, and assuming they figure the truck is of a utility nature, they will surmise that land mines must have existed everywhere along public highways in the early 21st century!
« Last Edit: November 11, 2014, 10:27:51 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #42 on: November 11, 2014, 11:00:15 PM »
OK, the manifold install is finally underway. So far it's going well, making progress. Here's some shots of getting started:



Starting under the hood, I removed the turbo heat shield, then loosened the down pipe V-clamp, loosing the nut for all time in the 5th dimension...more on that later.
Then I removed the left and right well well liners




OK, supper complete, no one liked my pot roast ;-((
All right, forget that, on to the build. Since I had never had the driver's side wheel well liner out, and knowing the intercooler pipe had to come out, I started on that side with the removal of that spindly looking little straw!



The intercooler inlet is actually 3", where as the supply pipe is 2.5".
All of that is going to soon change, as I just happen to have an Alligator Performance Diesel 3" intercooler pipe sitting here at the ready. Here's a couple side by side shots of what was, and what is to come:






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #43 on: November 11, 2014, 11:03:21 PM »
                                                                                                           (3032)
This convoluted mess is looking worse than the Jersey shoreline! BTW, allow me to say that I feel sorry and troubled by the suffering that is taking place all over the north east at the moment. It is indeed unfortunate that so many have lost so much and our hearts reach out to you folks up there. But every day that passes is one more bring the recovery from Sandy a little closer.

This pic is looking through the jungle of Honduras during a mission I was on there, wait, sorry, was drifting there, it's actually the mess you will discover inside the wheel well on the drivers side and what you will have to wade through to be able get to the manifold!


Next I pulled the down pipe out. Upon close inspection, I'd have to say I might have had some leaks judging from the carbon soot on the flange. I can't confirm it at the moment, but it looks like something might have been going on where the down pipe dumps into the exhaust pipe.





I was able to loosen the passenger up pipe rather easily, compared to, say rebuilding the coliseum in a day. Saying that it was easier than the first time!
Once it was loose, I unbolted the passenger manifold heat shield and removed it.


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #44 on: November 12, 2014, 07:52:47 PM »
Moving right along, next, off came the manifold



The stock gaskets show no signs of leaking what so ever. I decided to reuse them.



At this point I did some measuring of the ports, the stock manifolds and the new Pro Flow manifolds
The port measured 1.310" wide
THe stock manifold was a much wider 1.510"
The Pro flo manifolds measure 1.470" which are a tad smaller than the stock manifolds, but still larger than the port. The magic is in the bolt holes. The stock manifolds have larger holes for the bolts than the pro flow's thus necessiating the extra cushion with the opening. Mr. Rick manufacturers the pro flow manifolds with small diameter percision holes which tighten up the "wiggle room" substantially making for a better and more percise fit.

That precision showed up when I decided to test fit the passenger manifold. It fit straight up and every bolt went right in with no fuss at all!

Here's the stocker and Rick's manifolds side by side:




That last shot showed the stud removal tool I used to pull the factory 2ea studs out of the head prior to reinstallation of the Pro-Flow manifold.

Here is the assortment of factory hardware and the cool stainless cap screws which Pro Flow supplies for their new manifolds:


Here's some shots of the stock gasket held over the ports from various angles. You can see the port position is excellent relative to the gasket!




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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #45 on: November 12, 2014, 07:58:23 PM »
Here the manifold is test fitted showing its position relative to the "old" up pipe. As a reminder, this is an Alligator Performance up pipe used with teh EGR delete. You can clearly see, Rick has taken advantage of the extra room available to stretch things out in going after better flow.





It was necessary to remove the air intake pipe to gain access to the upper up-pipe to pedestal bolts. Not so difficult with the EGR cooler out of the way.

This was as far as I got today, back to it after I vote in the morrow...


Well the beatings will continue until morale improves!

I spent 7-8 hours on the project today and can not claim victory...yet!

This job is something like the EGR removal, although I still have to give that the nod as being the single most difficult thing I think I ever did with trucks. The trouble with this manifold and up pipe swap is that you just can't get to anything. Then on top of that the amount of torque required to bust loose those up pipes is astronomical. I mean it must be in the hundreds of pounds times 6 bolts.
Never the less, I'm in it to win it so I pressed on. First I removed the passenger up pipe, the alligator piece I installed some months ago.
The gasket clearly showed I had a small leak, but I didn't hear anything and the engine made upwards of 30psi when I stepped on it



Next I removed the drivers side up pipe bolts at the pedestal. The bolt on the underside of the flange took me over an hour to get! I had to create a tool, and even then, a buddy who stopped by was the one eventually claiming success on that monster.
While he beat himself to death above, I was in the drivers wheel well removing the heat shield from the manifold and the up pipe:


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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #46 on: November 12, 2014, 08:03:06 PM »
With those out of the way, we, well, he pulled the three manifold to up pipe bolts off and after some pounding twisting, forcing, and rangelin' we freed that pipe. It comes out all the way over on the passenger side up past the turbo!





Gentlemen, that drivers side factory pipe is just awful! Take a look at just how restrictive the ports are and how many places it is crimped compared to Ricks excellent pipe:





Here, I'm pointing out some of the crimped up areas. Notice how smooth the Pro Flow pipes are? Dunno, but I think I'm looking at a sinvificant flow (power) improvement.




Here's the passenger up pipe compared to the excellent Alligator pipe used for the EGR delete:



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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #47 on: November 12, 2014, 08:07:23 PM »
...and how the drivers manifold and up-pipe fit together:


Ahhh, that was good...put jalapena's in the sauce!

So next I worked on pulling off the drivers manifold. It was definately way more difficult than the passenger side which is really a breeze, but the jungle of wires masking every square inch makes getting around quite challenging. You will also have to pull the stud out at either end of the factory manifold before you can remove the manifolds because of its proximity to the fuel lines and a bunch of other things.
Oh, forgot to mention, you will need to disconnect the steering column, but that is way easy. 1ea. 15mm bolt and the shaft collapses, then folds forward out of the way.




Then finally, the manifold yields!




Once you wiggle the new manifold in there, it goes on fairly easily. Here's a trick I use to hold onto things that want to fall apart. I coat the bolt with a heavy waxy grease, then slide it into the socket. The grease holds it all in place while you fuss around aligning everything. Rick supplies stainless allen-head screws which I coated with anti seize prior to installation. Note here: whenever installing stainless into aluminum, to prevent gauling, use anti sieze on the bolt.



Relatively speaking, the upper manifold bolts go in easily, however the lower bolts are all hidden by various things like the frame and can be a bit challenging. But as with all things, time and preserverence will get it done. I finished the day's work with installing the drivers manifold and reassemblying the steering column.






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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #48 on: November 12, 2014, 08:08:47 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by D***
"Wow. You must have the patience of a saint."


Not any more!

This manifold swap is really starting to kick my butt!
Just like the EGR delete it is just slow going. Everything is a struggle to get out or back in through the web of wires all over this truck! I worked many hours on the truck today and am not all that much farther along than yesterday.
I bolted up both manifolds. THe underside bolts on the Fro Flow are completely hidden for the most part because of the larger size of the manifold and because it sticks out much farther. So that was a back numbing chore. Once I got those, I started wiggling the drivers up pipe into place. I want to get the hardest stuff out of the way first so that the job theoretically gets easier as I go.
Well, note to self and to all. Make a good study of the gaskets and how exactly they fit. There is 6 possibilities for each gasket. If you're anything like me, you can easily stretch that into 14-15 attempts by forgettins which hole or side you used last time!
So after hours all I had completed is 5 of the 6 12pt bolts started, none tightened. Yes, that's 5 not 6. The 6th would be the one at the pedestal mount on the bottom of the flange. While hunting for the hole with the boly while my shoulder was dislocated (necessary maneuver to get you hand down there) the bolt slipped out. That happende between 1700-1730. Finally at 2000 I gave up. I decided that a worm hole opened up to a parallel universe and that is where that bolt went. I mean it is G O N E! Addios, see ya, alviterzen, sinanora way out of existence gone. Maybe it's inside the oil pan or maybe the fuel tank. THose are a couple of the places I didn't look. There was a dog and a cat near by. I have both tied up and I fed them ex-lax just in case...!!
Well around 2000 I grabbed bolt #2 and just as I started to dislocate my shoulder and elbow this time just to give myself a better angle, tink-tink, it went away as well. I didn't notice any light pulsating so I don't think the worm hole reopened, and I pinched myself on one of the remaining patches of skin that isn't all torn up from three days of self inflicted abuse. I was definately awake, not dreamins, so all that must have happened.
Now the cool thing is those bolts are stainless...Yes, you're correct a magnet will not attract them. I broke out my wife's compact and using the mirror at a crazy angle saw for the very first time what all that looks like down there. Two things: scarry place, no bolt(s).
So I'm on line pricing out my new Cummins truck. I'm junking the Chebby, It has beaten me nearly to death and I don't even like myself anymore. It is just too much and it has won. I not only threw in the towel, I threw a couple of them around a little while ago. SO don't talk to me, leave me alone, I'm done, I'm leaving!


Quote:
Originally Posted by FC5452
"Uh oh, If this is whooping you Don, I may second guess myself on that project. Nah, I refuse to let a monster get the best of me. I will admit after a day on the egr some things where taking me to the edge.
It helps that I have small arms and can get them stuck in places they shouldn't be LOL. I will have to look at this with open eyes this time.... I'll give you to 0100 and an epiphany will come over you. May the diesel gods bless you"




Funny you mention that 0100 time.
I had a dream
and in that dream I saw a bolt
It was resting comfortably on the top of the transmission
So in the same dream I worked out a recovery procedure.
I plan to drag a coat hanger or something somewhat rigid over the top and use it to drag a towel over the top, which will hopefully sweep anything on top of the trans onto my shop floor, which for the moment is devoid of dog droppings. Well, maybe not, the woman unit put the shepherd out in my garage last night about when I was having that dream, so who knows for sure.
In my life I always have to do work to be able to do work. I'll have to clean the garage floor before I work, then I'll have to fire up the fan and the torpedo heater to dry it off. I need diesel for the heater which I will have to drain out of the tractor. I'll have to pull the tractor out of the basement to do that so I don't leak fuel all over the floor. The Harley is currently behind the tractor and it is hooked up to the trickle charger which I will have to disconnect, well, you get the idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAuto 
"I would have just left those 2 bolts out, to heck with them if they dont want to participate. So what, it might whistle when u step on it, recalibrate your boost gauge to compensate for loss of pressure. Yes, that is what I would do as sure as Don would give up and buy a dodge"


Got me there!
With one caveat
While keeping my D-Max I would be very tempted to turn away a 12 valve dodge 3500 dually in good shape (if there is such a thing left on the planet!) to add to my collection!

« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 08:15:28 PM by KensAuto »

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Re: LML Duramax Silverado Build Thread....C-MAX [Part 2-EGR delete and more]
« Reply #49 on: November 12, 2014, 08:53:39 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by FC5452
"And this is the reason I keep in tune with this thread Don. Humorous, Rhetorical, Instructional, and down right one of the best reads going these days on the forums. I know i have thanked you privately a few times, but thanks again for putting this thread together for us. I'll be trying a few things over the winter myself, Gonna try the Fass Dummy cap on the stock filter and put a Low pressure gauge on it to monitor the LP, and have begun a mock up of the Passenger side IC, Time to get rid of the grid heater and the crossover and puny intake" 

I like the way you are thinking with the intake issues. While you're at it, take a look at the Banks manifold. That thing solves all our intake restriction problems. Not saying I might not be interested in taking a stab at that one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC5452
"Made a couple of calls Don, and a few emails are out, one thing that has to be addressed is the MAP sensor port, Though talking with H&S a bung could be installed to mount the MAP. The rest of the plumbing would be some ping and a boot. Free flow without restriction by elimination of the Grid Heater and the air meter(Throttle body as it were) The latter is disabled by the tuning, hence it being unplugged, Though I am awaiting an answer from Industrial as to why it is re connected after the install of the compounds.
Inquiring minds want to know  I have all winter to get this done I'll scope out banks as a solution as well."

Posted by Rick at Profab:

There's restriction further down that will be an issue.




Posted by Flyin6:
Exactly...
Now
Check out the banks setup
They start at the head and eliminate everything, both manifolds, the Y-bridge intake thing, S tube thing, everything. Problem is it has not been done on an LML, but to the guy who does comes 16 ports of free flowing boost. No telling what numbers the stock turbo could make with that intake!

Posted by FC5452:
I've looked at the banks system Don, that's ok if your building a dedicated drag runner. Rick thanks for those pics, I've had mine tore down, the y bridge, crossover and manifolds are all an issue, hence why I have been picking your brain as well as others.
Increasing the port to the y bridge with the proper channeling to remade manifolds would ease that restriction. There is a y bridge out and manifolds for the lml a new ic pipe would have to be fabbed as well as two ports for the sensors.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 08:57:30 PM by KensAuto »