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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #50 on: July 24, 2015, 01:34:24 PM »
I will keep that in mind when installing the new parts.  It seems to just drive like an old truck currently but after checking things like you suggested I can see there is a whole world of room for improvement.   

Well with my 5% discount code it turned out to be $585 shipped for all the parts.  I don't think that's terrible for all that I got. 

I figured while my card was still smoldering I would just make it scream a little bit more.  I ordered a reverse shackle kit for it.   This kit puts the shackle at the rear of the front spring and mounts it solid at the front.   Supposed to give you a much improved ride and allows the use of super duty springs. 
With the shackle kit and the springs I should gain about 4" of lift in the front which will allow me to run 35s trouble free.  I may have to run taller blocks in the back or I may even do completely different springs back there.  The kit was right around 400 shipped and it comes with a track bar bracket to lower the track bar.   Found some junk yard SD springs for $75 ea so this is a fairly economical way to lift the truck while gaining a substantial increase in ride quality.

Hoping to pick up the springs next week and get started in all this.   When I pick up the springs I think I will change the bushings out for energy suspension units before I install them that way I know everything in the front end is as new as it can be. 

I may need a new pitman arm some say yes some say no so I'll see how it goes without it first. Also probably have some longer brake lines made up. 

Online OldKooT

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #51 on: July 24, 2015, 05:06:57 PM »
Is this a solid 60 front axle or a TTB 50 axle? Reason I ask is if it's a TTB axle, replace the center beam pivot bushing while you have it apart.
Norm

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Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #52 on: July 24, 2015, 08:08:17 PM »
Is this a solid 60 front axle or a TTB 50 axle? Reason I ask is if it's a TTB axle, replace the center beam pivot bushing while you have it apart.
Norm,
F350 here...has a Dana 60, not that weird TTB D50 found in the F250's.
Good axle in this truck
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #53 on: July 27, 2015, 10:17:19 PM »
A little update.  Here is my 97 getting the 12 valve lovingly plucked from between the frame rails.  Did some horse trading with a guy who is pulling the engine for me. Saves me from having to part out the truck like I was going to and I get the axles, engine and the wheels and tires.  He gets the rest of the truck and provides the labor to remove the parts.  I could have made a little more money on the deal but the time involved to do so wasn't worth it.  This way I roll up to his house pick up my parts and I'm done with it.



Next pic is of my Dodge this afternoon which has me re thinking my original bumper plan.  Approach and departure angles are key with the type of terrain I'll be dealing with in the Ford.  The 10" channel iron I was thinking about for the bumper is going to down to 8" or possibly 6". Or maybe just build a strong center section and tubing up the sides.  Who knows just need clearance.  Thats my license plate almost dragging on the ground.  If you listen real close you can hear the rubber air dam on the bottom of the bumper screaming for dear life.


« Last Edit: July 27, 2015, 10:28:51 PM by husker77c »

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #54 on: August 07, 2015, 08:31:49 PM »
A little update.  I didn't order enough parts to rebuild the front axle and I squandered my time that the girl was away for her work so that will be a bit before I tackle that.   But I am looking forward to it because of the sweet parts Mr El Tate hooked me up with.  Ended up buying the 35 spline stub shafts and the Yukon locking hubs so it should be bulletproof when I get done with it. 

Did some maintenance on it since I am still going to drive every so often to work. 

Changed the tranny fluid. It was a burnt up sludge that probably had never been changed.  Treated it to some Royal Purple full synthetic ATF and she shifts so much smoother now. Used to be a little hard to get in second gear.  Not broken parts hard just took a little extra effort and now it's smooth smooth. 

I did run into a problem I need some help with.  Before we moved the temperature gauge stopped going up to the normal spot between the O and R on normal on the gauge.  Also it was cool then and my heat wasn't blowing hot.  Didn't drive it very much after that but but I did drive it a bit when it was hot out and my AC wasn't blowing cold.   Thermostat right?  Yeah I thought so too. So I replaced the thermostat and just took it out for a drive.   Exact same thing. Temp gauge won't go up past the N and AC blowing warm.  I bought an autometer temp gauge and I installed the sender while I had the coolant drained for the Tstat but wasn't going to hook it up till I got some more things in the can squared away.  So I rigged up the gauge to the battery and the sending unit to get a temp reading and after the drive and idling in my parking spot the gauge is reading right around 190*.  The Tstat is a 195* Motorcraft part so that seems to be where it should be.   OK so the gauge must be bad right?  Well how do you explain the AC and heat issue?  If it was one or the other then might be easier to diagnose. Maybe AC needs services or heater core is plugged.   But it's both.  And I actually had to replace the heater core a month or so after I got it. 

I'm stumped.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #55 on: August 07, 2015, 10:17:07 PM »
It could be 3 separate things. You know the gauge is bad (or the sending unit...you already proved it).
So, item #2, A/C not working. Is the compressor engaging? If so, is the drier getting cold?
#3, no heat. Both heater hoses should be whatever your temp gauge is reading (190ish). If only one hose is hot then there is a restriction on the other side...the one that's not so hot (I would doubt the core would be plugged already, but who knows). If both hoses are hot, then the air should be hot. The problem would then be in the dash.

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #56 on: August 08, 2015, 03:24:19 PM »
Yeah I was planning on checking components next but I just find it odd that all three things went out at the same time.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #57 on: August 08, 2015, 04:51:32 PM »
It is strange, but not rare.

Offline nmeyer414

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #58 on: August 09, 2015, 12:01:46 AM »
i would say its more a reality than anything.....ken, you know as well as I do that when you start to fix and replace one thing, they get a bit of an attitude and you end up having to fix and replace a few other things before they calm down and be good.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #59 on: August 10, 2015, 12:41:36 PM »
I'm thinkin along the lines of Ken here; sudden loss of functionality on temp guage, ac and heater. sounds electrical in the dash, possibly harness, but if the baffles aren't moving on the heater you're only getting ambient air temp. if there is bad connection to the AC controls, compressor won't kick on, and even if it does kick on, if the truck still thinks your temp control setting is at 70+ it's not going to blow cold air.

Turn the AC on, set the temp controls to coldest setting and look for engagement of the compressor. If no worky, check the electrical at the controls. if it kicks on but no change in temp, look at the climate controls. I had a VW that blew hot air even in the dead of winter with the ac on, compressor spinning, and climate at it's coldest setting. the connection on the back of the control unit was corroded and no longer made contact.
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #60 on: August 11, 2015, 06:39:31 PM »
Well I've narrowed the AC down a bit.  The compressor clutch isn't engaging so upon researching a bit I checked the low pressure switch on the dryer. Pulled it off and jumped it with a piece of wire and the clutch engaged.  So that narrows it down to either a faulty switch or its low on R134. I'm going to charge it a bit with some cans from autozone to see if it helps. If it doesn't then I know it's the switch.   I'm thinking about taking it to the shop though cause if it's low on r134 then I have a leak somewhere and I've heard horror stories about people putting AC stop leak in them and having to replace pretty much every component in the AC system. I guess it wreaks havoc with the o rings or something.   I thought about buying some gauges and doing it myself but after I get it fixed I would very rarely if ever need the gauges again.  I guess it depends on what a shop would charge.

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #61 on: August 17, 2015, 09:10:44 PM »
Well the real work begins.

I got my AC fixed, was a low pressure switch combined with low R134.  Its blowing 38* out of the vents so thats good.

Decided to start tearing apart the axles.   My girl goes back to TX for work on Sunday so I figured if I got it started I could finish it after she leaves which leaves me two weeks of evenings to complete other projects.

I came apart relatively easy.  Until I got to the spindle.  Its stuck on like crazy.  Im going to go to Autozone to rent a slide hammer i think unless someone knows an easier way to remove them?



I got one of the races out easily and the other one was moving fairly well but it got kind of late and didn't want to completely neglect my girl and didn't want to annoy my neighbors beating on it.  There is some residue around where the seal was.  Any ideas on what it could be?  Part of it is green like the seal came apart and there is a yellow substance almost looks like old silicone or the like.



My ball joints aren't as bad as I thought they were, in fact everything that I have taken out has been pretty decent except for the one seal I got to.
I might as well do the ball joints anyway so I know where I stand and I will know everything else is tip top when i get done.

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #62 on: August 17, 2015, 09:45:14 PM »
not a dana expert but watching this to learn a few things.

What part of Texas is your girl going to?
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline Sammconn

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #63 on: August 17, 2015, 10:12:48 PM »
I suspect the green is the paint off of the seal. A lot I have done over the years were painted green.
The silicone like substance, not sure, may just be that, reason good question.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #64 on: August 17, 2015, 10:25:36 PM »
I suspect the green is the paint off of the seal. A lot I have done over the years were painted green.
The silicone like substance, not sure, may just be that, reason good question.

Exactly.

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #65 on: August 18, 2015, 02:36:16 PM »
Well I rained out today due to a flood last night.  It was kind of misting and cloudy so i was super excited to get to work on the Ford all day today.  i went by Autozone and rented all the tools I thought I might need and headed home set for a good day.  I got the spindle off and axle and stub shaft out.

i had to take the axle to a local shop to get the U-joint pressed out but after that I was good to go.

Layed out next to the BEEFY Yukon gear El Tate hooked me up with.



And with the new Ujoint and new 35 spline stub shaft.



Then I set about finishing tearing down the hub and spindle to start building it back up.  Thats when I started really cleaning everything with brake cleaner and looking closely at what I have. 

What I have is a pretty wore out hub and a tore up spindle.








Disappointed to say the least, Think I will change the name from Zombie to Money Pit F-350

Talked to El Tate and he gave me a couple options so I have to figure out how I want to proceed.  I need this done as the truck is on blocks in my parking lot.  And I'm actually thinking about ordering two while I'm at it for the other side.  That way I don't have to wait when I get into the other side next week.






Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #66 on: August 18, 2015, 02:55:17 PM »
Bro, those are some ugly pics!

All except for Tate's 35 spline axle stubs. I picked them up as well and pounded then into Square D. At least that is going for ya!
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Offline Sammconn

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #67 on: August 18, 2015, 02:57:47 PM »
That is nasty, and probably explains the silicone.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #68 on: August 18, 2015, 03:09:17 PM »
Yeah but like my girl said at least I found out now and not when a bearing decided to let loose and strand me in who knows where.

Tate got me all fixed up with a new spindle and a lead on some new hubs. They were so cheap I did buy two.  Hoping the other spindle is in good shape.

I should thank you Don this forum has saved me a boat load of money on this project thus far.  I'm going to end up with a nicely built axle for about the same price as a stock rebuild when I'm done.   I'm starting to come out of the closet a little bit too........













I have a small obsession with sled pulling.  This front axle will definately serve me well if I decide to go down that road in the future. 

What did you think I was going to say?

Offline Sammconn

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #69 on: August 18, 2015, 03:11:59 PM »
Oh yes, going the full blown route that you've chosen is definitely the way to go.

Like you said, you only want to do this once!
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #70 on: August 18, 2015, 07:53:14 PM »
Glad we can be of service

Thanks Tate, I know you're takin' care of the boyz!
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Online OldKooT

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #71 on: August 19, 2015, 04:48:42 PM »
Bummer on the damage. But good you caught it ahead of time. For future reference the TTB Dana 50 front spindles and hubs are the same as the Dana 60 Ford stuff.

Norm

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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #72 on: August 23, 2015, 07:59:27 AM »
So I'm still waiting on hubs so I decided to go ahead and start on the ball joints.  I got them pressed out and new ones pressed in and now I'm ready to install the knuckle back on the axle.  Do I just put the stud of the ball joint into the C on the axle until I can get the nut started then suck them up with a socket?  I can get my impact on the top nut so can I use the impact to tighten that one which should in theory pull the lower one into position?  Is that the proper way?


Edit:

I just read the insert that comes with the ball joints and they had the torque procedure on them.  I guess that answers my question.  Hand tighten them in the C and then run em down to the torque required.   It's calling for  150# on the lower and 69# on the upper final torque. Am does that sound right?
« Last Edit: August 23, 2015, 08:08:26 AM by husker77c »

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #73 on: August 23, 2015, 10:59:05 AM »
Yes, that is correct...not as hard as you may think, will go easy for you I think

I am please that you are 1. Doing this yourself as it empowers you

and

2. That you are posting and documenting it as well for all the other readers who will attempt the same repairs
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #74 on: August 23, 2015, 12:56:42 PM »
You were right the ball joints went on without a hitch.  A lot easier job than I was expecting, the press I rented made it smooth.



Im ready to install the axles now but is there an axle seal where I'm pointing?






 I don't recall one coming out when i took it apart but with the condition of the other stuff it may have needed one but it was missing.  When I pulled the axle I started losing gear oil out of the tube so If I just put the axle back in i'm thinking that gear oil will still want to come out.  I googled info about the seal and apparently there is a seal that they came up with for that area but I sure didn't have one when i took it out.


Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #75 on: August 23, 2015, 01:00:20 PM »
I don't believe there is. The seal is inside near the diff
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Online OldKooT

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #76 on: August 23, 2015, 05:40:17 PM »
Don nailed it, the seal is inside by the Diff. If the truck is relativity level and it's leaking gear lube out the axle tubes that's not abnormal really. The axle shaft provides the sealing surface, right now there is a 1.5" hole in the middle of the seal due to the missing axle shafts.

Right now would be a good time to make yourself a little "tube scraper" and carefully without pushing debris into the diff area, clean out your axle tubes. I use a half moon shaped piece of metal welded onto a hunk of rod long enough to reach into the tube.

Norm

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Offline EL TATE

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #77 on: August 24, 2015, 07:03:13 PM »
Yes, inner tube seal directly against the bearing cap. Are you leaking now?
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #78 on: August 24, 2015, 07:11:26 PM »
Small Update.

I put this together as I have parts coming in so It's slower than id like.  It seems that each step only takes me a few minutes but overall its taken me two weeks to get to this point.  I should have everything ready for the other side though when it comes time for that unless a spindle is messed up.  Even if it is though Tate is drop shipping me parts from KY so i get them next day when i order through him.  Just waiting on the new/used hub to show up and I can install and pack the new wheel bearings and drivers side will be complete.  I'm going to replace my rotors and pads as well while I have it apart.   The rotors are pretty wore and they might be able to turn them but for $50 i figure what the heck. I'm already into this for a whole lot of money so whats another fiddy?

Kind of hard to see but here is the depth the rotors are worn.



Here is the axle installed in the housing waiting for the spindle, with a liberal coating of anti-seize should I ever have to go down this road again I don't want to fight it.





And finally all torqued down and ready to go.


And my most recent Amazon order came in, I needed headlight bulbs for the Dodge and some Rage body filler for some final touch ups on the Ford. figured i would throw this on there for good measure.

Old school gun rack for the back window!



It will mostly be used for my hard hat but just figured it would be period correct for this year of truck.

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #79 on: August 24, 2015, 07:13:17 PM »
Yes, inner tube seal directly against the bearing cap. Are you leaking now?

It leaked for a little bit when I first pulled the axles then stopped.  Its not perfectly level at the moment. 

Offline Dawg25385

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #80 on: August 24, 2015, 07:13:28 PM »
Yessss. The gun rack is legit


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Offline EL TATE

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #81 on: August 24, 2015, 11:09:16 PM »
That'll do it.  Glad it was after axle removal
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #82 on: August 26, 2015, 07:32:00 PM »
I'm spending more time waiting on parts than working on this thing at this point.

I got my new/used hubs in and set to work yesterday after I got home.  The hubs came with the old bearings and races in them so i got to work removing those and I have to say this is the second set I've removed and I am getting quite good at it, by the time I work on the passenger side I expect this to be similar to a NASCAR pit stop.



Ive had my races chilling in the freezer for the past week so I put the hub into my hub heating oven and prepared to install them.



I'm not sure the freezing and heating part even did anything.  When I read about that method I had envisioned the race freely dropping into its seat and then magically expanding to a perfect install.  Not so much, I still had to use the old race and a hammer to get them set in place so I doubt I will do that again.

Then I got out the wheel bearings and prepared to get them packed and installed when I realized I had no wheel studs on the hub.  Figured it wasn't a good idea to be pounding wheel studs in with the bearings in it so I called it quits for the day.



Today I woke up went to work then started ordering brake parts.  I got new rotors and a new set of pads and also ordered 8 new wheel studs.  Went in after work to pick them up and I ordered rear studs instead of front and of course they don't have them in stock for the front.  When I asked him how long to get them in he said 4-5 days.  What in this world takes 4-5 days to get?  I would have ordered them from NAPA, but they keep bankers hours and I definitely don't work bankers hours.  Tomorrow Im going to sneak away from work and run to NAPA to see if they have them.  If not at least I know I will have them by the weekend.  Got the rotors and pads though.



I am correct in assuming that if I replace the rotors I should replace the studs?


Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #83 on: August 26, 2015, 09:41:00 PM »
Yes, buy new studs

Here's a trick I learned: Buy Dually studs, they are longer!

Just check the shank size to make sure they fit, but you can get a stud nearly 3" long in some instances which allows you to use a thicker lug not, and helps you to get the wheel on a bit more easily as all that sticks out a bit more...Looks cool too!

Check them out on Square D

And some manufacturers used a 1/2" stud

Replace those with 9/16-18 studs and add a ton of strength for essentially no more cost
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Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #84 on: August 28, 2015, 08:05:33 PM »
OK need some help.
I got my wheel studs and got the hub on the spindle.


I set the bearing preload to 50 lb/ft and backed off a quarter turn. 

Now for the life of me I can't get the lock ring to line up with the stud on the inner nut.


Is there a trick I should know?  how can i be sure that my pre load is still set if I have to keep moving the inner nut around trying to get it to line up?  please tell me there is an easier way besides wiggle the lock in there, pull it out, move nut, repeat until I'm ready to kick something.

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #85 on: August 28, 2015, 11:25:06 PM »
I am not sure what to tell you. That part is a living horror story. Seems you either get it or you don't. Trying moving the nut a bit left and right and accept the preload which is left. That's what I do...
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #86 on: August 29, 2015, 02:17:57 AM »
Be sure to try flipping the washer. ...the holes are offset 1/2 of a hole from one side to the other,  then use a 90* pick to feel the pin and to move it if needed.

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Offline Sammconn

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #87 on: August 29, 2015, 11:43:58 AM »
Be sure to try flipping the washer. ...the holes are offset 1/2 of a hole from one side to the other.


That I did not know.


You'll get this together. I'm with Don as well, have to sometimes accept what you're left with.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #88 on: August 29, 2015, 05:09:22 PM »
Yeah what Ken said... flipping the washer usually does the trick. I tend to always swap my front 60 axles to 14 Bolt Chevy wheel bearing nuts. That way one socket fits both ends, and they are much easier to deal with.

Just stay at it you'll get it. When you get this running drive a hundred miles or so and re-torque the lugs nuts. New studs = probability of loosing.

Norm

Are you a prepper?  "No, whats a prepper? I am just a mildly OCD farmer"

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #89 on: August 29, 2015, 07:19:56 PM »
VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!

Blind luck got the pin in the lock ring on the second try tonight.

Now for the fun pretty stuff.

More gear from my main man El Tate





The locking hubs went together super easy and came apart super easy as well.  I had to disassemble them when I forgot to install the spacer.  that minor setback aside.  They are installed and they work!





Then the new brake pads and the caliper installed.




i was hoping to get to the other side tomorrow but i have to go in to work for an overnight shift to watch over the hydrostatic testing so I think Im going to take it easy tomorrow and rest up.  One overnight will wreck me for the week but I'm trying to make a hand for the new company so I can continue to work next year.  With the economy as uncertain as it is a man can't really ever turn down work.



Offline Sammconn

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #90 on: August 29, 2015, 07:32:19 PM »
Quote
I tend to always swap my front 60 axles to 14 Bolt Chevy wheel bearing nuts.

Says the guy with four sheds, two barns, and a warehouse he has yet to speak of full of axles and parts.

New studs = They're going to be loose.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Online OldKooT

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #91 on: August 30, 2015, 10:40:55 AM »
I actually usually source my 14 bolt bearing retainer nuts from a U pull it yard. I just buy the entire axle for like $45 swipe the nuts, and wheel bearings if good. *bearings are the same as Dana 60frt/rear wheel and diff carrier, and some Dana 70*  I much prefer old serviceable OEM quality bearings to new junk. So if I find a nice axle with said parts I snag it, part it out, toss the housing/hubs/shafts in my iron pile, and motor along happily LoL



Norm

Are you a prepper?  "No, whats a prepper? I am just a mildly OCD farmer"

Offline JR

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #92 on: August 30, 2015, 01:58:29 PM »
Nice write up. Was good to see see all the parts I have getting put on. Tate did me good too and my CC still hurts.

Using Norms idea on the nuts, but doubt I will get the whole axles. Nice thing is I have one axle nut wrench that fits the Dmax rear and the Subs front and rear axles.

How do the hubs work? They are sure purdy.
Retired LEO  Lifetime NRA+  Outcast in Calif

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants"

Thomas Jefferson

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #93 on: August 30, 2015, 02:21:27 PM »
Congrats on the install. Need a job? lol



Not everyone buys an entire axle to get the nuts. Matter of fact, I think Norm may be the only one!

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #94 on: August 30, 2015, 06:18:09 PM »
Thanks guys.  I'm already over half way done with the other side.  It goes so much faster after you've done one side.   The hardest thing was the ball joints and even that wasn't that hard. 

The hubs are money.  They have such a positive feel to them.   Dealing with locking hubs growing up they always felt as if they were about to break when you were turning them.  These are firm but smooth if that makes sense. They have a solid click when you engage or disengage them. I've read they can be a little tough to disengage after using them so I will have to see if there is any validity to that claim after they get some use.  I've also heard that the reason people have a hard time disengaging them was due  to people having them in a bind still after using 4wd and due to not enough grease.   I packed a whole bunch of grease in them so that won't be an issue for me. 

Hopefully this thing will be back on the road Tuesday night.  Probably won't be able to take it to work immediately because it will probably need an alignment after I replace all the tie rods and everything.  I have those removed and I assembled the new ones as close as I could to the old ones length so I'm hoping they are close to be able to take it for a test drive to verify function.

After all the running gear work I'm thinking I need some cosmetic work next.   Probably try to paint it next week.

Online OldKooT

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #95 on: August 31, 2015, 07:13:37 AM »
When you get your tie rods all changed out you can just set the toe at about 1/8, and go for a drive. 99% of the time that is about exactly where the toe needs to be.
Norm

Are you a prepper?  "No, whats a prepper? I am just a mildly OCD farmer"

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #96 on: August 31, 2015, 10:04:16 AM »
D
When you get your tie rods all changed out you can just set the toe at about 1/8, and go for a drive. 99% of the time that is about exactly where the toe needs to be.
Ditto

Offline EL TATE

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #97 on: August 31, 2015, 02:28:36 PM »
Looking great bud, glad it's all turning out well for you. Yeah, those spindle nut washers suck for sure, got some providence there getting it to work like that.
Husband, Father, Gear guy, Patriot.

Offline husker77c

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #98 on: September 07, 2015, 10:45:16 AM »
Almost got it.

You guys said above that I should set the toe to 1/8" in?  How do i go about doing that?  Where do I get my baseline?  I assume once i have it at zero then I can jack up both sides of the front end and turn the adjustment sleeve to get the 1/8".  Is it possible to have one side straight and the other side turned out to much?  I have the tire off of one side and its a little hard to tell without the tire on but it looks as if the passenger side is turned more than the drivers side.  I eyeballed the tie rod and drag link and they are within an 1/8" or so of the pieces I took off.  Maybe it will look better when i get the tire on.  If it doesn't then i should be able to leave the one tire on the ground and turn the adjustment sleeve which should bring the other one in correct?  I'm about ready to put the drag link on but I'm thinking I should leave it off until the toe is set correct?  Because it will have to be adjusted depending on where the tie rod sets correct?

some pics








Offline KensAuto

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Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« Reply #99 on: September 07, 2015, 12:25:48 PM »
When I do a front end, I try and put everything back to the same as before, laying parts next to each other for reference, and using a tape measure. Using the tape measure, find a spot on the tire that's consistent (center groove?), and measure across the front, then compare with the back of the tires. It doesn't matter which side you adjust as far as toe is concerned, but it will affect steering wheel position.