Author Topic: LML Silverado Duramax C-Max build thread part 4 (Read 175667 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #400 on:** April 07, 2017, 08:34:50 AM »

Hmmm, seems like my tape idea is old school!

And it doesn't work all that well

It's the morning after and I just examined those wheels. The Epoxy silver stuff did something weird. It seems it reacts with moisture in the air fairly aggressively. Meaning: It swells and almost bubbles up. The finish is anything but level, (pictures to follow tonight) and will have to be removed.

The paint, (Lighter gray) turned out great. I'd call it a semi-gloss flat finish which will both add color, and reduce shine which is in keeping with the overall theme of this project

Finally: Had a thought! One of two I'll likely have today

We're going to birth a new section in the tool board.

We'll call it "Tips" so we can capture all the cool "Barbasol ideas"

Even though I enjoy giving our steelhead, Shawn, a hard prow to hoe, In all fairness, He gets the credit for this new area. And since it's his baby, well, it's his baby!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #401 on:** April 07, 2017, 08:41:29 AM »

Oh and while I was at it

Shawn you're the moderator

and your desert friend is too

(Guilt through association rule)

Ken, Shawn...Go get em'

Sammconn · « **Reply #402 on:** April 07, 2017, 08:46:25 AM »

Don, just a thought on the bubbles in the wheel finish.
Could it be moisture in the compressed air, or the fact it was thinner ( possible not compatible ) and sprayed vice brushed.
I say the latter not knowing the application instructions.

stlaser · « **Reply #403 on:** April 07, 2017, 09:20:37 AM »

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 07, 2017, 08:41:29 AM

Oh and while I was at it

Shawn you're the moderator

and your desert friend is too

(Guilt through association rule)

Ken, Shawn...Go get em'

Oh boy, rats in charge of the cheese.....

Flyin6 · « **Reply #404 on:** April 07, 2017, 10:00:07 AM »

Quote from: Sammconn on April 07, 2017, 08:46:25 AM

Don, just a thought on the bubbles in the wheel finish.
Could it be moisture in the compressed air, or the fact it was thinner ( possible not compatible ) and sprayed vice brushed.
I say the latter not knowing the application instructions.

Sam, no sir, none of the above

I had a moisture filter attached to the air line at the gun
The thinner came from KBS, and was for that paint
Paint can either be sprayed or brushed

Now having thought about it, here's my thoughts
1. This epoxy cures by being exposed to moisture. It was raining yesterday, could that have made for too high a humidity?
2. The paint has a temperature range and I was skirting the bottom of that range, possibly outside of parameters
3. This stuff is thick. Ranges between Latex house paint and elmers wood glue. Thicker materials require a more generous nozzle at the spray gun. I was using my most generous "Primer" nozzle, but it was still sputtering. So either I need to thin more, or up pressure more, which is not characteristic for HVLP guns...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #405 on:** April 07, 2017, 10:01:16 AM »

Quote from: stlaser on April 07, 2017, 09:20:37 AM

Quote from: Flyin6 on April 07, 2017, 08:41:29 AM
Oh and while I was at it

Shawn you're the moderator

and your desert friend is too

(Guilt through association rule)

Ken, Shawn...Go get em'

Oh boy, rats in charge of the cheese.....

Go get em soldier!

It's been 29 minutes and not a single post in YOUR NEW THREAD

Git on it! ;-)

Bear9350 · « **Reply #406 on:** April 07, 2017, 10:20:24 AM »

If it was raining out while painting I would assume the humidity was probably higher then the recommended range to paint in. I wouldn't think it would cause bubbling though. How much more thinner did you add and what does the can say is the max amount to add? Paint sputtering coming out of the gun isn't going to leave a nice smooth painted finish.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #407 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:34:14 PM »

OK, next day...

Lets look at what happened to the wheels that got test-painted during the rain yesterday

Nothing good happened, that's for sure!

First these rash looking formations were not bubbles. The paint just had some sort of over exuberant reaction to all the moisture (I think) and raised up in areas

Flyin6 · « **Reply #408 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:38:06 PM »

I got all sorts of runs. I'll attribute that to improper thinning of the material causing me to have to spray more down in an attempt to reduce the trunk-spatter-paint effect I was getting.

So, OK, this was an obvious fail, so a redo and rethink is in order

We can see that the normal UV happy paint had no problems with the moisture, pressure, or temperature

Flyin6 · « **Reply #409 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:40:37 PM »

I socked a bunch of paint stripper to that wheel and let that stuff do its thing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #410 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:41:41 PM »

While I was waiting for the stripper to soften the epoxy, I installed some more filters, fuel filters first

Flyin6 · « **Reply #411 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:44:02 PM »

I chose a CAT primary fuel filter because it is a 2 Micron absolute filter which my injectors will no doubt appreciate, and a Baldwin fuel/water seperator

Flyin6 · « **Reply #412 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:46:56 PM »

Then the Allison got a new filter as well

The magnet I had installed a couple years ago had done its job well. I found sixth gear attached to the magnet backside!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #413 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:47:46 PM »

All that is buttoned back up

Flyin6 · « **Reply #414 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:50:10 PM »

Interestingly, when I drained the water seperator, I found not one drop of H2O in there! Now why is that?

And the mystery deepens. I just got a "Water in fuel" message on my DIC, along with a "Change fuel filter" message.

This has me wondering if somehow the air Dog filter failed allowing the water to bypass up to the factory filter which I still run as a safety

Flyin6 · « **Reply #415 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:53:40 PM »

I solved the overspray issue, easily!

First I ran a loop of 3/4" masking tape around the tire lip. Next I melted one of the Mrs. big candles she probably won't notice is missing. Then I painted the juice all over the tires and that black dog. Works like a charm!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #416 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:55:37 PM »

Then I applied one coat of the hard to work with KBS epoxy "runs-a-lot" rust encapsulator and helo pilot aggravation compound.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #417 on:** April 07, 2017, 06:56:27 PM »

An hour later, I had this:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #418 on:** April 07, 2017, 07:01:01 PM »

The paint is specially formulated to only run on the side that shows. It flows out perfectly on the Rim's backside which will never be seen

I must have used backside paint on the front side or something because there really is no reason for this.

Well, this is only the "Primer" coat as it were, so who cares what it looks like.

But

It has to be flat for the top coat or I'm going to own one hillbilly lookin hick special!

I got on the brake calipers. They had been coated with shark hide some years ago and really had done quite well. I cleaned and coated them with the silver Runs-a-Lot" paint, and I must have used the can of inside (can't be seen) formula, because it came out OK!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #419 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:04:12 PM »

Removing the wax is a bit of a chore. It definitely requires you to use a pressure washer and expect to spend some time removing the wax from all the nooks and crannies found in tires

Flyin6 · « **Reply #420 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:05:49 PM »

When you're done the tire looks rejuvenated and you'll have seven million little pieces of wax all over creation

Flyin6 · « **Reply #421 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:06:50 PM »

I was not careful enough, and accidentally blew a small section of paint loose from the wheel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #422 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:11:05 PM »

Now, after the coatings dried overnight, I got another exaggerated paint swell.

After all this, I can not recommend this coating for anything requiring a smooth wrinkle free finish. THings like my wheels are not suitable to use this product on. THe finish just looks like crap.

But, on the flip side, this "paint" is incredibly tough. Remember that black paint I used on the suspension? Well I had gotten some on the lip of the can. It hardened and absolutely welded the lid to the can. I had to pyr every quarter inch then use a ball peen to smack a screwdriver through, and after all this prying and mangling of the can, the lid still would not come off!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #423 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:14:10 PM »

Like I said, the finish is horrible. There is nothing to like about it except that I suppose it added bullet resistence to my wheels!

I thought I was just going to bolt the wheels back on, but far from that, I worked nearly all day sanding those wheels down and respraying with just the paint, and not using the Epoxy

Flyin6 · « **Reply #424 on:** April 08, 2017, 10:20:37 PM »

I sprayed those wheels in 50 F low humidity weather and got that awful result.

Secondly I would note that the top coat is designed to be sprayed over top the Rust Sealer product. The instructions said to top coat betwee 3-8 hours after spraying the rust seal. I waited 3 1/2 hours when I top coated.

I also noted that sometimes the topcoat will react with the epoxy base coat and wrinkle up.

I can't say I like anything about these products. Seems like the product doesn't act anything like the advertising states

It won't run...But it definitely does
Uniform color...But the metallic pigment migrates while drying
Top coat made to work with the rust seal...Yea, if you are looking for a wrinkle paint finish

The only things I will say is that it is definitely hard! And the paint by itself seems to spray well, but that's as far as I go. I don't like it

But after a couple days of painting, sanding repainting, stripping and repainting a third time, Here's the results. I just hope it holds up...that was a bunch of work right there

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #425 on:** April 09, 2017, 10:41:37 AM »

I have looked into having mine powder coated. About forty bucks a wheel. Front and back.

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Sammconn · « **Reply #426 on:** April 09, 2017, 10:57:08 AM »

Looks good from far, so good enough for what they need to do.

I spy a couple cedars on a trailer, still in log form...

Wilbur · « **Reply #427 on:** April 09, 2017, 12:08:54 PM »

That's a lot of work for sure. They look good now, bit the quite the journey to get there.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #428 on:** April 09, 2017, 09:41:09 PM »

Any chance that results would have been better with multiple super thin coats?

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stlaser · « **Reply #429 on:** April 09, 2017, 09:44:26 PM »

I vote for dismounting tires from rims in the future & having them powdered. And not to throw salt in a fresh wound but if that SQ D had been running it could have been up to the task of transporting said tires & wheels to Dr appointments.

Sammconn · « **Reply #430 on:** April 09, 2017, 09:45:39 PM »

Flyin6 · « **Reply #431 on:** April 10, 2017, 10:45:25 PM »

Quote from: Sammconn on April 09, 2017, 10:57:08 AM

Looks good from far, so good enough for what they need to do.

I spy a couple cedars on a trailer, still in log form...

Check out the sawmill thread...I opened one of those up today...

Flyin6 · « **Reply #432 on:** April 10, 2017, 10:46:57 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on April 09, 2017, 09:41:09 PM

Any chance that results would have been better with multiple super thin coats?

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I don't know Charles

I've painted quite a bit over the years/decades. But this stuff behaves differently than enamels I am used to

Flyin6 · « **Reply #433 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:35:42 PM »

I added some lights and reoriented some others

I am encountering a couple of fixable problems

With respect to the headlights, I may have installed the high beam bulb into the low beam housing. Ever since "fixing" the trash LED lights from before, I am getting a lot of folks flashing their headlights at me. That and the fact that the low beam doesn't appear to have much of a "Cut-off" to prevent me from blinding other drivers, this bears investigating.

The second issue is that with all the back roads night driving and driving on the farm at night, I need more of a flood light like light setup.

So with this installment to the build thread, I'll add and modify some lights

First up I scored some long range HID driving lights:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #434 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:36:47 PM »

They are large, inexpensive, and self contained in a plastic housing

Flyin6 · « **Reply #435 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:38:57 PM »

I decided to pull the existing flood style LED lights and install the big spots in their place, then reinstall the flood LED's outboard of them, and to angle them to throw light to the sides as well.

Prior to moving the smaller LED's I had to partially disassemble them and clear off the moisture that should not be on the inside of the lens

Flyin6 · « **Reply #436 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:41:34 PM »

I just removed one side, then worked a paper towel into the front and backside of the lens and blotted the droplets, then reassembled

Then I bolted in the new spots, leveling them in two planes

Flyin6 · « **Reply #437 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:42:10 PM »

Got those fitted

Flyin6 · « **Reply #438 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:43:40 PM »

To make the installing and removal easier for the old LED's and create a more professional installation I squeezed in some nut-serts to take a 1/4" bolt

Forgot to take a pic of the nutsert actually installed. In the pic it hasn't even been tapped flush yet

Flyin6 · « **Reply #439 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:47:19 PM »

Next, I created a wiring loom which I made up with weather proof ends

Flyin6 · « **Reply #440 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:47:53 PM »

And hooked all that up

Flyin6 · « **Reply #441 on:** April 18, 2017, 12:50:18 PM »

I wired it in such a way as to switch on both the HID's and the LEDs when the high beam bulbs light up

And that, my friends, is that!

Oh and at night it is way over the top. It lights up everything!

Very good mod

JR · « **Reply #442 on:** April 18, 2017, 01:02:50 PM »

That is a lot of light!! Do the bumper lights work?

Not sure if you covered it but what is the big puck on the (synthetic?) winch rope?

EL TATE · « **Reply #443 on:** April 18, 2017, 01:10:44 PM »

If C-max were a transformer, he'd be this guy, but with a moustache.

Lights look Really good on there. The rubber deal is just a stopper for the fairlead

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #444 on:** April 18, 2017, 03:48:56 PM »

Source price and part number for the klieg lights?

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JR · « **Reply #445 on:** April 18, 2017, 03:57:17 PM »

Tate, I know what the stopper is, just not seen em that big!

EL TATE · « **Reply #446 on:** April 18, 2017, 04:26:03 PM »

Quote from: JR on April 18, 2017, 03:57:17 PM

Tate, I know what the stopper is, just not seen em that big!

I thought I felt kinda silly explaining it...

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #447 on:** April 18, 2017, 05:07:46 PM »

by the way. that's old school way of adding lights. Kinda like that idea compared to the silly kids with their 86 inch light bars

EL TATE · « **Reply #448 on:** April 18, 2017, 05:50:35 PM »

This is how I always envisioned my first truck. Didn't even know it was a Toyota because Mcfly only called it a 4x4. The lights on that and on D-Max will always be the "correct" setup. Light bars are cool and all, but seem to fit better on newer jeeps and more futuristic looking rigs? I don't know maybe I'm crazy, but the first thing I bought for my wagoner were KC lights for the bumper and 6" HELLA's I tucked behind the grill. I love the look and the "you did NOT just cut me off in traffic" appeal.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #449 on:** April 18, 2017, 09:51:21 PM »

Quote from: JR on April 18, 2017, 01:02:50 PM

That is a lot of light!! Do the bumper lights work?

Not sure if you covered it but what is the big puck on the (synthetic?) winch rope?

Yes, the four Warn fog lights in the bumper work, but don't put out very much light

Thew rubber bobbin is a winch line saver. It keeps you from breaking the line over too great of an angle, thus protecting it