Hello Guest

Author Topic: Redneck Dually Build Thread  (Read 28936 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Redneck Dually Build Thread
« on: April 20, 2015, 09:57:36 PM »
This is a reconstruction of my build thread for my 2013 LML Dually.

This is a collection of the things I've done to my truck based on my unique desires, needs, and whims.  I do it with an eye towards folks that have an interest in learning different ways of looking at and doing things and will do my dead level best to do these in the format of DIY with pics and instructions to help those who want to know how and why I did things a certain way.

A word of caution.  I typically over think and over engineer and over spend.  I try for the subtle and factory appearing look wherever possible. (since I have an LB7 on a 12 inch lift with 37s for the not so subtle)

This will take a while to get up to speed since I bought the truck in June 2013 and have many mods and projects to get caught up on.

Here is how it began.  My DD was a 2007 MB CLS that I bought new in 2007.  At 70,000 miles on it and the month before I bought the LML, it cost me $6000 in repairs for an AC evaporator and air struts.  I had enough, plus I wanted to get a 5th wheel and my LB7 was not the right truck to pull it with because it looks like this:

So, I traded this:


On this:

Drove 6 hours to Vernon Texas from Houston after cutting the deal over the phone.

And so it begins.

In keeping with some other build threads I'll try to keep this page as an index of sorts and a list of mods:



Bought it with the Rhino Liner and B&W turnball and companion installed. 

Glad I opted out of the GM steps as I went with the Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel, which I love because it helps me get into the toolbox and unhook the 5th wheel.  Drove the back roads for 500 miles to break in the rear end on my way to Memphis from Vernon, straight from picking it up at the dealer.  Had to pick up the family from an extended visit to the in-laws.  So I ended the first week with 1200 miles.

First stop was my parking garage at the office to prove the guys at the office wrong, that it would actually fit.  Of course I had to bribe the building manager to raise the entrance pipe about an inch to keep it from hitting the roof.


The next week I took it to the shop to have Xpel clear bra put on the hood, front fenders and bumper cover as well as a custom patterned full rear fender piece for the hips.  If you've never investigated this stuff, I highly recommend it. It was originally developed for the leading edge of helicopter rotor blades to keep wear down from sand particles  and is now sold under many trade names.

No other mods before it was off to Ohio to pick up the new 5th wheel.  Stopped for a ROTM photo.

and then picked this up

Installed the steps

The replaced the dealer advertisement on the mud flaps

a few pop rivets and some diamond plate

Then added the Weather Tech liners
« Last Edit: May 09, 2015, 12:59:57 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2015, 09:59:08 PM »
Then came the Bilstein 5100's all around including adding the steering stabilizer.  Did it at night with a flashlight and an impact.  Took about 20 minutes total. Did get pictures of the old ones in the floor. 


Although I liked the Denali, finding a victory red one was nearly impossible and even though I like the lower grill I wanted to have a little chrome on the front.  However I did not like the lack of the one wood grain piece around the radio.
Replaced this:

with this:

using this:

Ordered the GM Part off ebay.  Got a pretty good deal.  Don't overlook ebay for OEM parts.  Often dealers give discounts and sell on ebay.
The cheap set of molding pry tools are a must.  The bezel has three clips down each side.  I started at the top right and worked my way down.  Don't get rambunctious and you won't break it.  I've seem some others install switches along each side but larger switches required some back trimming.  Again, I wanted to keep it low key and factory-ish so switches there weren't an option for me.

Next we get into some better mods and better pictures;  Up next, the Nicktane filter, adapter, and filter door.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2015, 10:02:55 PM »
My experience with the Nicktane on the LML was a slightly different experience so I thought I would do a write up.

2013 GMC Crew Cab Dually with 7,418 miles.  It is used to pull my 42 ft fifth wheel and remain mostly stock since it is under warranty. (e.g. no ECU programming, DPF delete, etc) 



After experiencing injector failures on other diesels in the past, and researching and reading articles about the quality of diesel filtration and contamination and the effects on high pressure diesel injector systems, I felt the need for better filtration and chose the Nicktane adapter and the Nicktane Microglass 1 micron filter. 

To facilitate maintenance, I decided to remove the inner fender and install the access door from MadJack Diesel.  I highly recommend using the clip tool/pliers they sell.  I bought them a while back and love them.

Off comes the passenger wheel and inner fender.

 



Carefully unplug the WIF sensor.  I will not be using it with the new filter.



Open the WIF Drain - nothing but fuel.  Good sign after 1800 mile road trip



I've read the stock filter is 60% efficient at 7 microns, but perhaps the new Delco is better?  Don't know and a little late now.  The Nicktane Microglass is 1 micron and pure synthetic media.



Not that I will ever need this in South Texas, but interesting to note they zip tie the block heater cord (made in China) to the AC plumbing on the passenger side.



Top side : this is why I want the filter access door in the inner fender.  Not much room to navigate.  Off comes the air intake elbow to gain access.



Two 5/16 hose clamps, one on each end. Note the black bracket that runs from the filter housing bracket to the throttle body and holds the dipstick.  This has to come off to facilitate getting the longer bolts into the bracket that holds the fuel filter housing.



I used 1/2 inch open end wrench to remove the two bolts holding the filter housing onto the bracket attached to the head. There is a pipe that feeds water to the heater that is bolted to the top of the filter housing, remove that bolt during this process too.  The fuel filter housing will need to be spaced out about 1/2 inch to accept the aftermarket filter or it hits the bracket at the bottom.  Here is where it got a little interesting for me.

I bought the spacer kit but the bolts that came with it are too short for the LML.  Apparently the LML has a thicker boss on the bracket that hold the filter housing.  I have hear that some just add washers to space it out, but the engineers had a certain amount of threads engaged in the filter housing body for a reason, right?  I buy 8x1.125x60 mm bolts because that's all NAPA had.  As it turns out even when I remove the interfering bolts and bracket as shown later, the 60's won't fit, went to Lowe's and bought 50mm metric bolts to increase the length and account for the spacer. Multiple trips to the store really increases the install time.



These were 60 mm so I was going to use them with washers on the back.  No dice.  As it turns out, the bracket that holds the filter housing has bolts that interfere with the longer bolts when you try to insert them into the holes from the back.  Nothing is ever easy right?



You can see here that I have removed the bracket that stabilizes the throttle body (2 bolts at the top and bottom included the two interfering bolts of the bracket that holds the filter housing).  Those bolts also secure the bottom of a bracket that stabilizes the throttle body housing and oil dip stick.  I had to remove the top two bolts on the bracket where it meets the throttle body housing to remove the bracket and give my self room to insert the 50mm bolts.



Drop the spacer in from the top.  Note the hose clamp on the outlet hose close to the heater hose pipe - I rotated this to not have the ears rub the heater hose pipe.

Since I won't be using the WIF I cut a piece of closed cell foam to fit in the connector, coated the inside of the connector with dielectric grease and then inserted the foam and taped with electrical tape to preserve the contacts in case I want to return to stock later.

The use a T-20 screwdriver to remove the check ball holder from the bottom side of the filter housing and remove the ball and spring. Replace and tighten the holder sans spring and ball.

Install the Nicktane adapter.  I used a rubber strap wrench to make sure it was tight.  Lube the O rings a bit.  Install the Microglass filter.  I wrote the date and mileage on it.  Remove the bleeder screw, slowly depress the primer bulb until fuel comes out without bubbles, install the bleeder screw.



Now on to the access door install.  I assumed the LMM and LML fender liners would be the same but either they are not or I installed it oriented the wrong way.  Either way, when I lined it up part of it over hung a stepped down contour of the inner fender so I trimmed it with tin snips








I scribed the trimmed panel outline on the inner fender.  Then deducted about an inch around the perimeter for mounting (and to preserve one of the fasteners that hold the flexible water shield near the A Arm) and cut out the opening with tin snips.






Since the part I cut off included some mounting holes I drilled equally spaced holes and also drilled the inner liner where the other holes were.  I suggest inserting the fasteners as you go to eliminate the shifting of the panel and misalignment of holes. So here is the end product for access next time.



So in the end, I got where I wanted to go, but since no one advised me that the bolts supplied with the spacer kit were too short and that longer bolts to provide the same thread engagement in the housing would require the removal of the bracket stabilizing the throttle body housing, it was a bit of a goat rope for a little while.  In the end it turned out fine.

Sorry for the bad pics.  They looked fine on the display of the little digital camera outdoors while I was doing it.  I'm not undoing it all to redo the pics.......

I hope this helps someone and if I omitted any information or someone has better ideas or experience, feel free to comment.  You won't hurt my feelings.

Next was to install the RDS 60 gallon Tool box auxiliary tank combo.  Sure helps towing the Redneck Hotel at 10mpg.  I made it from Ruidoso to Houston without filling up.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2015, 10:06:13 PM »
Ok, so lets get started on the RDS tank install.  I bought the RDS 60 gallon tool/tank combo with fuel safe (meaning the filler is under the lid and not exposed) from Northern Tool.  Not fantastic build quality but pretty good.  I originally had it in my 2001 LB7 but decided it belonged in my dually.

If you recall at the beginning of the thread that I over think, over engineer and over spend?  Here is a great example of that in epic fail mode.

Because the DIC and fuel gauge go haywire when you let the aux tank feed into the main tank without a valve I decided that I would use an electric valve to re-fil the main tank from the aux tank when it was empty. (when the computer senses that the truck has been driven a while and the gauge does not move it assumes a fault and drops the gauge to empty until the next key cycle)

So I get the valve off ebay and begin to fabricate a bracket with scrap 1/8 aluminum. The valve comes with 6mm holes in the bottom for mounting.





You can see here the temporary gravity feed set up (I have a manual valve attached to the outlet of the auxillary tank.
So I think to myself, "self I need a timed relay that will leave the valve open for a specified time and then close".  So I search out and find an IDEC relay capable of timed operation and spend $70 on it.  I time the amount of time it takes my tank to fill up the main and it's right about 22 minutes.  I spend an hour figuring out how to program it, wire it and then realize that when the aux tank is half full it takes longer since the pressure on the outlet is lower.


This relay is actually very cool. You can set it to use a momentary impulse signal to turn a circuit on or off a predermined amount of time from like a tenth of a second to 600 hours.  It does a host of other functions like turn one circuit on while the other stays off too so if you want to know look up  IDEC RTE-B2D12  I had intended to have a push button switch that when pressed momentarily it would activate the relay and open the valve for 25 minutes and then shut off.  Someone even suggested that I could wire the trigger for the relay to read the low fuel light signal in the fuel gauge and it would do it automatically.  That would be sick! But alas, way to anal and over engineered.

 Then it hits me.  I have way over thought this and I need to just use a 12v pump and switch.

So while I wait to wire up a multi circuit harness and install switches in my overhead console this is what I have.  Ball valve and gravity feed.  I get out and turn the valve when I need to refill.  I will have a fuel pump wired in shortly and it will appear in the build thread in order.



Once piece of advice about mounting the tank.  Make sure that you leave room between the back of the tank and the front of the bed for the top to open as it takes a couple of inches.  Also, if you intend to put a rolling bed cover you have to allow for the box to be between the tank and bed too.

And this pic shows why I bought a long bed.  By the time you install the tank you have very little room for a 5th wheel if you don't have the long box.

Up next:  Debadging with 3M eraser wheel and Goof Off
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2015, 10:08:04 PM »
So I decided I didn't want to have emblems on my truck.  I bought a 3M eraser wheel, Goof Off cleaner, and got some 30lb fishing line tied to some sticks as handles.  Note to self.  Don't buy anything from Grainger unless it is an emergency.  They are higher than Michelle Obama's opinion of herself. No need to heat the emblems in Houston in 90 degree weather.  Just put the line behind the emblem and saw through. 



So here is where I start to hyper ventilate a bit.  All the emblems off and I'm wondering how this eraser wheel is going to work without eating through my clear coat or paint.  Turns out this is the darndest thing.  With the cordless drill on low speed it just eats the goo off and leaves a residue.



After wiping up well with the Goof Off residue remover

and the finished product.

If I can figure out a way to get rid of the GMC on the grill that will be a good thing.  Note it works the same for the door moulding if you choose to go smooth sided....

Up next: Really expensive HIDs
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2015, 10:11:42 PM »
I do things the hard way because I usually over engineer everything. There are many ways to do HIDs but this is my chosen way.

First, from the "more money than sense" category, I purchased genuine Phillips 35W 6000K HIDs from autolampsonline.  $258 from across the pond.  I like the idea of having OEM quality on the headlamps.  Time will tell if they are worth 5X what I paid for the ones in my 2001, which occasionally has one ballast that does not want to fire up.

Second, the engineers at GM should be summarily shot for how difficult they made it to remove the headlamps/housings in in the NBS trucks.  Geez man, my 2001 is two skewers from up top and they flop out.  With these you have 2 choices.  One: remove the aux battery and the air box to gain access to the bulbs, which are still hard to get to if you have big hands and it did not give me good insight into where I wanted to mount the ballasts and such.  Two: you can remove the grill and the headlight housings, which on the Chevy is apparently easier than the GMC.  However, once you get the housings out you can easily see how to mount the ballasts and route wiring to keep it all neat.

So, in keeping with my hard headed ways, I chose to do it the harder of the two ways.  Step 1, remove the radiator cover/shroud by opening the hood and then removing the plastic clips that hold it on.  Tip, Merchant Automotive makes some great clip removal pliers and I suggest you have a set. Clip Removal Tool

Then remove the bolts holding the top of the grill to the core support.  4 of them if I recall correctly (10mm bolts).

Then at the front of each front wheel well remove the 2 small screws holding the upper bumper fascia (that painted piece between the bumper and the grill) This piece is what makes the GMC much more time consuming than the Chevy.  Once these screws are out gently work the top edge of the fascia out of the groove in the fender and headlamps.  It snaps out of the channel.  When you get to the part directly under the grill, you reach between the grill and the radiator and feel for he tabs on the fascia that interact with the grill.  Depress the middle of the tab down to disengage from the grill and continue to work towards the other side.  Once you have it out set it gently out of the way and don't step on it.



Then with a pair of slip joint pliers compress and release the 6 or 8 clips that hold the grill on from behind and remove the grill.



The head light has 3 10mm bolts.  Two up top and one to the outside and bottom of the housing. It is accessible from the gap between the bracket that holds the bumper fascia on.  Once those are out, the 4th attachment point is a joint that slides outwards once you have disengaged plastic posts on the back of the light that engage the fender.

Neatness counts, so I chose to mount the ballast to the core support by using a self tapping screws, which also gives me the ground necessary for the proper operation.  I then drill some holes in the core support that allow me to insert zip ties to hold the cables and other boxes which I presume are the control circuitry.




The factory pig tail and the HID pig tail connections are all in the same vicinity now and nothing is likely to rattle.

I put dielectric grease in all the fittings and take care not to touch the bulbs as the are installed.  If you choose to install HIDs from behind without removing the headlight assembly, getting the bulb in without roughing it up could be a challenge.  It is much easier when it is on the bench.



Because HIDs take about 10 seconds to come to full brightness, I chose to retain the factory high beams since I don' often drive with high beams anyway. I've also seen people use a 9011 bulb as a replacement for the high beam 9005.  It requires a little trimming but is a higher wattage bulb.  I may try that later for the high beams.  I like the brightness, the color rendering (not blue) and there is no interference with my AM radio signal like the cheap fleabay lights I installed in the fogs (write up coming)


Test before reassembling and then enjoy.

Up Next: Amsoil fan boy's dual remote filter install
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online nmeyer414

  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 2881
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2015, 10:11:58 PM »
DOT's ALERT!

                               

                we have a new thread that we can DOT up!!!!

                                                             

                                                               :)  ;)  :D  ;D  >:(  :(  :o  8)  ???  ::)  :P  :-[  :-X  :-\  :-*  :'(
Nate

Push a KIA or Prius into the ditch this winter if the opportunity arises........it'll build character for a suffering millennial!

Online nmeyer414

  • Global Moderator
  • ****
  • Posts: 2881
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2015, 10:13:22 PM »
the weather here has been close to 80 deg for the last week or so
Nate

Push a KIA or Prius into the ditch this winter if the opportunity arises........it'll build character for a suffering millennial!

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2015, 10:15:04 PM »
OK second project of the day after the HIDs was the Amsoil Remote Bypass kit.  Thanks to  Madjack Diesel for the bracket and to Willie Parson's for the kit.  (I found that Willie carries the bracket too but I had already bought mine and I like the folks at MadJack too)

I did my first oil change on my truck at 7500 miles so, again, under the heading of doing it the hard way (or the expensive way), I decided after the fact that I wanted to get the remote set up.  I set about to install the remote filter kit with 10,000 miles on the truck.  Just wasted a perfectly good filter and about a quart of really expensive oil by not doing it all at once.

Alright.  Lets get started. 
This is why you use this kit.  over 98% effective at 2 microns.  That will keep the engine clean!

Its rainy and cold here in Houston today so fold the mirrors in and nose the front into the garage. DRW back end is not going through the garage door but I got enough in the garage to keep it out of the wind.



Pull the stock location filter off and then mount the EZ Mount EZ-Bypass Mount - MadJack Diesel Performance

Easy as can be.  Re located the wire harness near the oval hole in the frame and use the one bolt and washer to secure the mount to the inside of the frame rail.  I drilled a hole in the bottom of the cab in an area that would not penetrate the floor of the cab and re-used the factory push in retaining clip to mount it to the bottom of the cab to keep it out of the way.



Then mock up the filter head to make sure you have clearance.  So happens that I am using the optional sampling valve
and it would have interfered with the fuel lines so I had to get a 1/4 MIP elbow to keep the valve from hitting the lines. Thanks to Flyin6 for the idea to get the sampling valve from following his build thread.



One tip here:  Pre fill the oil filters with oil. 
Do this first as they soak up a lot of oil.  Add to the top then go back and work.  Then come back and refill to the top.  Repeat at least 10 times.  These filters hold 2 quarts and another 8 ounces to get them completely full. You don't want the engine starved for oil during start up the first time.

install all the fittings on the filter housing and use thread sealant on all connections.



Mount the filter housing
and then mount the filter adapter.

Follow the instructions.  It says to mock up the filter adapter to see where and how you want the connections positioned.  The center nut is about 1 3/4 inch.  I don't have anything but a large crescent wrench that will fit that.  So although there aren't really good pics of it, it is a large cup that replaces the factory filter.  It as a large hollow bolt that goes through the cup to the threads in the factory filter housing on the engine and holds the cup and o-ring in place.  The lines attach to that hollow bolt and the other connects to the side of the cup.



Install the fittings into the adapter, again using sealant on the threads being careful not to get sealant on the last couple of threads to keep sealant out of your engine.

Then begin to assemble and mock up your lines.  Cut the hose a couple of inches longer than you will need and then trim to get it right.  You don't want too much hose but you need to leave just a little slack to allow for engine movement.  These are two part fittings. Hose screws into the collar and then the fitting screws into the collar.




One piece of advice here that is not part of the manual.  I would not install the fitting on the inlet of the filter housing closest to the drive shaft until you get the inner side installed and the hose completed and tightened.  It will make it easier to get on the fitting if you wait to install the inner fitting and hose until after the out side closest to the frame is installed.

As you are tightening the fittings you may want to hold the body of the fitting with another 1" wrench to keep from twisting the hose.

Here you can see the completed installation with the sampling valve.  Make sure you have the sampling valve tightened well with a pair of pliers before you start it for the first time.  Don't ask me how i know to do this......

Run it and check for leaks.



Up next.  Less than 6 months old and get tagged in the rear while sitting still.  And how that turned to the silver lining of paint matching!
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2015, 10:16:58 PM »
DOT's ALERT!

                               

                we have a new thread that we can DOT up!!!!

                                                             

                                                               :)  ;)  :D  ;D  >:(  :(  :o  8)  ???  ::)  :P  :-[  :-X  :-\  :-*  :'(

It's an ARMY of DOTS....may have to call in an air strike....

I did say I was "reconstructing"  Although it did get down to 60 this morning after the hail storm last night
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2015, 10:18:34 PM »
So I was leaving the office and headed downtown to meet a client one Wednesday afternoon.  Got to a stop light waiting to turn right at the light when.....bump.  This dingleberry hits me while I am sitting stopped.  I thinking, man, I'm kinda hard to miss.  22ft long, 8 ft wide, 6 1/2 ft tall and bright red.  And it was less than 6 months old.


Bad day for him but at least he was apologetic and had good insurance.  What could I do?  Shoot him?

Unfortunately he hit me at an angle and his hood rolled up and topped my bumper and got into the fender.  What you can't see is that the musket exhaust got bent a little.  As many of you deleters have learned that is all one piece and that piece alone was over $2000 - the pipe includes the DPF and runs all the way back and includes the musket.

Total cost to repair, almost $6K
So while I had it in I had them sand, prep and paint the mirrors and the lower bumper valence and air dam.

Silver lining to the emotional distress of a new vehicle in a wreck.  I really like the difference it made.  Unfortunately I forgot to tell them to paint the mickey mouse hood pimple...

Before

After


Next up.  Not out of the shop a week and I crush the newly repaired tailgate with my fifth wheel.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2015, 10:20:35 PM »
So, fresh out of the shop and with my new paint matched front bumper and mirrors, I towed my 5er to the state park for a family thanksgiving camp out.  Made some awesome gumbo.  Here is the roux just after adding the onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic.  DARK!




So everyone leaves and I'm there packing up and get a bit in a hurry. I back into the trailer to hook up that the handle on the hitch moves like its latching but it actually was closing because it was not open all the way when the pin contacted it.  So although looked like it was connecting it was not.  Pull the jacks up and start to take off and BAM.  The pin drops out, the trailer lands on the bed rails and the pin box crushes the tail gate.  Yep the one that just got repaired in the shop......



So this time the repair bill is on me.  So I find a tail gate on Craigslist and snap it up for $350, thinking that all I have to do is swap in my camera and have it painted.  OK, a $500 repair hurts, but not the end of the world.

BUT WAIT! Not so fast.  The tailgate I just bought will not work with the factory lock and camera so I have to buy a new shell from GM AND I'm stuck with the one off Craigslist.

So I do talk the local dealer into giving me the jobber discount and get the shell, the handle bezel, and the protective cap for $700, spend another $250 to get it painted, and another $75 to have the bedliner re-shot and then realize the latch is bent and spend aother $55 on a latch.  Total cost of my bone headed move?  $1080 not counting the $350 I have in a mint silver tailgate sitting in the garage.




So back from the shop good as new....



Not sure how long it will take for my wife to let me live that one down....but it could have been worse.  It did not damage the trailer or the bed rails....

Next up: HID fogs.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2015, 10:22:44 PM »
After spending $300 on genuine Phillips HID low beams for my new truck, I thought I would try some Chinese knock offs on the FOGs to see if there was a difference in light quality or longevity.  The Fogs were much easier to get to in case I have to replace later.

For this, I bought some lights off fleabay and they seemed to be good build quality in comparison to the Phillips.

First start by using a 10mm socket to remove the two nuts holding the splash guard to the lower air dam on each side.  This will allow the splash guard to pivot down on the end attached to the fender well which will give you better access.  Then after some trial and error trying to get all three clips to let loose so I could pull the housing out, I used this trick (or maybe everyone else knew it but me).  I used the box end of a 10mm wrench that fits over the clips and depresses the 4 tabs on each clip, allowing you to remove them easily.

Once on the bench, I removed the stock bulbs and insert the new HID bulbs

Then because the kits only have the terminals on the end and not factory plugs due to the number of kits they'd have to have for compatibility, I chose to cut the factory harness and use spade terminals and sockets in case I ever wanted to go back to the factory set up.
Here is the factory connector.  B is the negative.  On my model negative was black and positive was purple.

  I staggered the cuts and used different sized terminals for positive and negative to make it more idiot proof, which is important for me.


I also had to cut the HID kit pigtail to put the male terminals to match.

Use heat shrink and don't shortcut since they will get a lot of water and moisture.

I like to secure my ballast with a self tapping screw. In this case the end of the core support was convenient. Just make sure that behind where you are attaching is open and you won't tap into your radiator, intercooler or something else very important and expensive.

Zip tie your wires to keep rattling to minimum.

Done.

Now both the low beam Phillips and the fleabay lights were supposed to be 6000k.  The fleabay lights are bright, maybe brighter than the phllips, but they are a lot more blue in color, probably closer to 8000k.  I like the Phllips color rendering much better.  But for the price difference, so far so good. I run them daily as DRLs and other than the color the only difference I can tell is that the cheap ones interfere with my AM radio reception.  (Old angry white guys listen to a lot of AM radio don't you know?)

Up Next: The over engineered air system from hell.....
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2015, 10:26:10 PM »
OK, So I tow a 5th wheel and have planned to make some really long trips in it.  Last year just after buying the truck and trailer I took it to Ruidoso, NM for about 1800 miles round trip.  If you've ever driven through West Texas, it is the middle of no where and breakdowns can be a real problem.  We also plan to visit CA, CO, WY, and other long trips. I have AAA roadside for both the truck and the trailer but with a wife and 2 small kids, having to wait 3-4 hours for roadside assistance can be distressing to say the least.

So, I began to think about having on board air to run air tools and inflate tires, bike tires, and operate an air actuated 12 ton bottle jack, etc.  Since my trailer tires are filled with nitrogen I bought a 48? cylinder of nitrogen and a regulator.  In the interim between buying all the parts and getting everything mounted and wired, I carried the nitrogen tank on trips which would power my tools, jack and air up tires. I also hated the way people pull out in front of me when I weigh 24,000 pounds so if I was going to put an air compressor, I thought I would add train horns.  And then since I had air and horns, it only made sense to add airbags.

I began researching air systems and came to the realization that to get what I wanted I needed twin compressors and a 5 gallon tank.  That was going to make finding a location to mount all that stuff a bit of a challenge and I didn't want to buy a kit with all the switches, gauges, tank, compressors etc. just to not use all of it.  So I opted to buy just the twin 440C Viair compressors and piece together the rest using parts that I wanted.


So for the horns, I got the Wolo 847 Siberian Express horns since they were plastic (no rust), well reviewed and cheap since I'd starting getting the evil eye from the wife from all the mods.  The real metal 5 horn sets were $800.  I ordered a tank from Custom Connections because it had the dimensions and number of outlets that I wanted.
Then if I was going to run DC power to the back of the truck to power the compressors, I thought I've always wanted an inverter to run/charge power tools, etc.

And that led to buying a NEMA enclosure to serve as a distribution hub for power and to house the relays for the air compressors.  This would be mounted in the bed area of the frame so that at a later time I could add the inverter and tie into that distribution hub without a lot of trouble.  So I planned to run a 4 gauge cable back to the NEMA enclosure which could power the compressors and the inverter later.

Then I needed an air water separator....



So as I began to realize that I would have to have switches and gauges and wiring, I reverted back to my desire to keep my truck looking as factory as possible so I began to labor over finding just the right switches and just the right location for them.  Searching Mouser for weeks I found just the right switches.  Its important to note that switches need to be rated for 12vDC.  Don't assume that 125v AC switches will work.  Here is thread discussing the science behind it. 

AC switch vs DC switch - AnandTech Forums

This is the series of switches that I used.  I ordered a variety of SPDT, momentary, DPDT, etc all matching.
Mouser Electronics - Catalog Viewer

I looked at every location I could think of to mount the switches in a way that would not look "tacked on" or crude.  Lower dash near the trailer brake controller and just about every where else.  I kept coming back to the overhead console.  Again, Flyin6 build thread to the rescue for the idea.

So this project kept getting bigger and bigger when I realized that the toughest part of eating the elephant is taking the first bite?So I began by mounting the compressors.  Under the hood was crowded.  Outside the frame rails seemed to be exposed to the elements.  As I lay under the truck looking for a place to mount compressors it hit me.  The dually fenders have all this open space between the wheel well/liner and the body.  Two compressors, two fenders! Out of the elements and big.  So I began to fabricate a mount for the compressors that would utilize that space.

By attaching to the cross bracing in the bed and cantilevering out into that open space between the dually fender and the inner wheel liner. This side had to be notched to clear the fuel filler hose from the tank to the filler neck. Note also how the platform on the brackets extended further on the driver's side to move the compressor further to the rear to clear the fuel filler hose

This side required no notching.  Note they are rubber mounted to the aluminum plate

Once mounted, the bottom of the aluminum plate creates even better barrier to the water and moisture

You can see here how the side rails of the cantilevered bracket attach to the bed cross rails with self tapping screws.

So the physical mounting of the compressors is done. In the mean time I added the firestone ride rite air bags.  No pictures as I don?t know what I was thinking. The install was straight forward and only took about an hour.  Since I did not have the air compressors wired I ran the individual filler tubing to the rear by the hitch in the mean time.
Then I mounted the air tank to the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side.  The perfect spot for it was obscured by the fuel lines.  So I carefully measured and cut the mounting bracket so that it fits around the fuel lines and allowed me to drill holes through both sides of the frame and used 5/16 bolts to secure it.


With the tank, compressors, and bags mounted it was time to get to the train horn.

After looking at several places the best option seemed to be mounted under the bed towards the cab in the middle, facing backwards.


So now that the physical mounting of all the components was complete it was time to start tying it all together with air lines, and electrical.
Up next, wiring and plumbing?
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2015, 10:32:42 PM »
Someone once asked about my sob story with my first Duramax, the LB7 on 37s with a 12 inch lift.  So here is some DOT of my own making...


Ok.  Once upon a time... there was a redneck who worked in an office behind a desk but grew up working on stuff so he always had to have a truck in the stable.  An uncle had a 6.5GM diesel that sucked and my girlfriends parents had a 350 diesel in an oldsmobile that was a nightmare.  So when it was time to get another truck in 2001 I did not want to be the guinnea pig on a new diesel so I bought a 2001 CCSB 4WD with the 6.0. It was fine for what I did which was DD and towing a small boat and jet skis as well as the occasional load of gravel, dirt what have you.

Fast forward to 2005 and hurricane Katrina/Rita.  I had shed the blinders of civility and was keenly aware of the ability of man's depravity when I saw the breakdown of society before my eyes in the evacuation which caused many people to sit in a car on the freeway for 12 hours and only travel about 40 miles.  Gas supply ran out and people were dying on the side of the road, fist fights and other assaults were common around the lines at gas pumps.

I knew then that I needed a diesel because during all this, the rednecks in their trucks were rolling up and getting fuel while all the gassers were throwing rocks at each other.  I began to try to figure out what I wanted.  My two daughters had grown up in my lifted 2001 gasser.  (Daddy's big red truck) and when I told them I was going to get rid of it they literally cried hysterically.  I had identified 2 candidates, a 7.3 Powerstroke with 70,000 miles and a 2001 CCLB 4WD Duramax that looked identical to my truck except the LWB.  The girls gave the thumbs up and I bought the LB7. 

The mistake began as I was looking on line at Cars.com and Northwest Motorsports in Washington state had this great looking LB7 with only 120K miles on it.  Not bad for an 11 year old truck and it looked cherry.  Little did I know that there could be issues, expensive issues, with diesels.  I called and talked to them and they seemed legit so I bought it sight unseen (except the photos)  Mailed them a check and they sent it to Houston.

First, when I said I was going to arrange shipping they said that they could take care of it and would ship it for $1000, half of what I had been quoted.  So to my surprise it shows up and they had driven it down and not "transported it" and expected me to haul the driver to the airport.

The next day, the truck lost prime sitting in my driveway and would not start.  I knew nothing about the Duramax but knew I needed to get some professional advice to make sure all issues were identified so if I wanted to nix the deal and send it back I figured that out sooner rather than later.

So, I tried to find a reputable diesel mechanic and found a place in South Houston, Houston Performance Diesel.   Talked to the owner and he seemed like he knew what he was talking about.  He had several medium and heavy trucks in the shop and I thought, he seems legit. So I take the truck over there and ask him to go over it with a fine tooth comb.  He pulls codes and looks it over and we discuss it.

So it had several codes related to the loss of prime and a P0700 for the tranny.  The guys says, the injectors are OK, but the CP3 is weak and the filter head needs replacing. Remember the P0700?  Yeah, he says, "ehh, lifted trucks always throw those codes because of the lift, its nothing to worry about" I report back to the dealer and they agree to split the cost of the repairs which would have been about what it would cost to ship it back.   That started me looking for a place to learn about diesels,which led me here.  So I decided to add a Banks Big Head Waste Gate, an AD165 and delete the filter head while I was at it.  Got it all done and the truck ran pretty good. 

Another fast forward and a couple of months later and I rent a bumper pull trailer that weighed about 10,000 pounds.  I hook up to it and it goes into limp mode.  I didn't know what that was at the time, but it was not fun limping it home at 40mph from 90 miles away.  Well when the dealer paid half the repairs they required a settlement which meant I was done with the dealer's willingness to cover any of the costs.

So an incompetent buyer meets, incompetent dealer and incompetent mechanic.  Crash course begins in transmissions and EFI learning.  Wind up at Calvin's and Brad builds me a bullet proof tranny and Kory hooks me up with EFI live and DSP-5.  And tells me the balance rates are marginal and to start planning for injectors at some point.

6 months later, I'm back for injectors and we do all new lines, remove, clean and reinstall the cups.

So, I dropped 21K on the truck when I bought it.  Then 4K on the pump and other mods (dealer paid half), then 6K on tranny and EFI, and then 6K on injectors (and had them run compression and other tests to make sure I wasn't throwing money away on that engine.

So, I have nearly 40K in a 12 year old truck.  Not real smart but it forced me to learn a lot about the Duramax in a short period of time.  In hindsight, I think it only needed a filter head rebuild and a tranny and injectors, but the dude at the shop mis identified the problem as a weak CP3. Now, its a sweet truck, the interior is in as good a shape as my 2013, the paint is awesome and the motor is strong at 132K now with a new tranny. There was a lot of money spent by someone in the FTS 12 inch lift and Weld wheels and other goodies.

So, long story short, having to find a way to spin that epic story of incompetence to the wife has led me to want to keep the warranty on my LML for a while until I sell the LB7 and it fades from her memory.

Any one want to buy a really sweet LB7 for a smoking deal?
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2015, 10:35:20 PM »
Ok so now that I have most of the hardware bolted up it?s time to get busy wiring and plumbing.  Remember I?m anal and details matter to me so bear with me here.
I approached this from a systematic master plan and wanted all the add ons to be powered properly and fuse protected.  Tacking stuff into fuse boxes or adding on to existing circuits is never a good idea, especially with newer vehicles.  So I decided that I am going to place the switches in the overhead console, and use the GM supplied upfitter connections in the MBEC panel to power all these items. So I pulled the console and started working on getting the switches installed.  Here it is as it came out.  Note the bosses for the other factory switches.  I found out that the rear sliding window switch goes here.  I guess if I ever want to retrofit the sliding rear window I?ll have to start over?

Pay attention to the big factory connector.  I found a cool way to tap into that for an additional power source for radar detector, or in my case a TST Tire Pressure Monitor. In my truck I found that there was a slot in that Delphi connector that housed a yellow wire coming to the console but on the console connector there was no corresponding pin or wire.  A little work with a test probe confirmed that it was not only a power wire, but a RAP circuit so it retains power for up to 10 minutes or until the driver?s door is opened.  If you pry the purple retainer out of the connector you can remove or insert a new connector. In this case it is a Delphi #15304702, a male GT150 terminal.  You can search Mouser to find it.  Attach a wire to it, insert it in the connector on the console side opposite the yellow wire coming into the connector on the body harness side and BOOM, you have a RAP power wire.



Took everything out and cut the bosses down flat to make installing the switches in that area feasible

I used my calipers to measure and lay out the switches very carefully and then laid out the area to cut out with masking tape

And with switches installed.


I went ahead and cut in two additional switches for future expansion while I was in there

Since neatness counts, and I like things that no one will ever see to be as factory looking as possible.   I decided that I would create a separate wiring harness for all these mods.  I wanted to use a junction connector to enable me to remove the console in the future.  I chose to use a  Molex connector for 14 positions and fabricate a wiring harness that kept all the aftermarket mods on a separate circuit. 
Start with lots of pretty wire


I love heat shrink tubing..

When removing or installing the console, I now just have one more connector to plug for the 6 additional switches

Finished product at the console.  My TST monitor is powered without a cord dangling to the cigarette lighter
From left to right the gang of four switches are: Compressor power, transfer fuel pump, horn selector switch, and airbag up/down.

Take very careful measurements of the route all the wires will take across the headliner, down the A pillar, through the dash, out the firewall, then split to the various components, some in front, some at mid ship and some at the back.  Fabricate a wiring harness with various looms. Remove the A pillar cover, the sun visor and the sun visor clip and run the harness down through the A pillar and behind the dash.




Circuits need protection and I bought a 6 gang fuse panel to mount on the firewall under the hood.

 All these circuits need power and I wanted them all to be powered like the factory accessories, with a RAP feed.  The MBEC next to the driver?s left foot is designed to accept another connector and has 10 am and 30 amp power, a ground and a 300 milliamp rap feed that can be used to power a relay which is fed by the constant 30 amp power.

The connector is GM part # 20791502
The pins, in various wire gauges are: Delphi 15304715, 15304716, 1530417-L,15304711-L
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gmupfitter.com%2Fpublicat%2F2013_BB%2F2013_LD_FS_CKTruck_081512.pdf&ei=76w7U9PTF4_jsATf_ILoCA&usg=AFQjCNFiLJdYK5LgANsSTXK98cJ4ihoZzg&sig2=j2lOBitDviFcFYH9lOHvLQ&bvm=bv.63934634,d.cWc&cad=rja
Look on page A-16 for the pin assignment.  I used the 30 amp to feed power to the relay which feeds power to the fuse panel with the RAP feed triggers the relay.  Keep that Upfitter link handy.  All kinds of neat stuff in there.

Note the bosch relay mounted on the firewall next to the panel.  That relay gets power from the MBEC and the relay gets triggered by the RAP feed, which switches on and off all the circuits.  Here is an important tip anytime you install a relay in a modern vehicle.  You MUST install a diode across the coil to keep voltage spikes out of the electrical system if you want all those computers to stay working.


This needs to be done for every relay. There are two more in the back for the compressors and I installed diodes on them as well.
So here we are getting the harness through the firewall

Chose your location carefully, you don?t want to drill into anything important.  I found a location above the MBEC panel on the inside and drilled for a grommet.


Here is the harness coming through the firewall and splitting into 3 smaller harnesses, one to the relay and fuse panel, one to the horn circuit, and one back to the fuel pump, compressors, air bags, and train horns
The two extra switches are pre wired and coiled up at the firewall for future use.  Just attach the accessory of choice to the orange or white wire and boom, you have it already wired and swiched at the console with its own fuse.  Plan for future expansion. You know it will happen.

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2015, 10:38:07 PM »
Part II Continued

I wanted to be able to use either the factory horn or the train horn so I used a SPDT switch that will take power from the factory horn feed coming out of the underhood electrical center and route it to either the factory or train horn depending on the switch position.  That way I can use my horn button on the steering wheel.  So I found the two wires coming out of the big fuse box under the hood and in the conduit routed to the front of the vehicle.  There is a separate wire for each horn and both are dark green.  I cut them joined them to that I can feed one wire back up to the switch in the console and then route the wire for the factory horn from the switch back to the factory wires leading to the horns.  The other wire coming off the switch sends that horn circuit to the train horn when desired.





So here is what I did to get power to the two compressors in the back. Add a mega fuse holder and tap directly to the battery pos terminal.  Snake 4 ga cable to the back and feed the NEMA panel.


This is a NEMA waterproof enclosure where I mounted a positive bus and negative buss made out of ? aluminum plate.  This allowed me to run 4 ga cable from the battery and power the 2 relays for the compressors, which are only triggered by the switch in the console instead of that small switch having to carry 30amps or so.  This also allows me to expand in the future when I get around to adding a 2500 watt inverter.  All I need to do then is tap into the NEMA box which is mounted on the passenger frame rail outboard in front of the front rear axle spring perch.


Waterproof cable connectors.

Remember that diodes are important.  Another way to wire them directly to the relay.

Remember neatness counts.  Use conduit too.
Note the ground wire on the bracket attached to the truck bed.  There is a group of grounds on the drivers side from the factory, I duplicated it on the passenger side.  Keep the grounds short and it will reduce electrical noise in the audio systems , etc.  Clean off all the undercoating so you get a good metal to metal contact and then spray with protective coating like Boeing Bo Sheild T-9 or CorrosionX


And this is how I mounted it.  The compressors have a short lead of braided stainless hose with a one way check valve on it.  I used compression fittings to 3/8 DOT nylon tubing.  I ran the DOT line over the frame crossmember at the front of the bed and tied the two together with a T fitting on the drivers side frame area.  That T feeds up a short distance to the tank and then the tank feeds back along the frame rail to the water seperator.

Mounted the water separator to a piece of aluminum angle

Painted it black and used self tapping screws to mount to the outboard side of the drivers frame rail in front of the rear axle.


From there it runs to the back of the truck and along the way there is a 3/8 to 1/4 tee to send air over to the horns.  Then it arrives at the back of the truck and I bought a bulkhead fitting to mount a Milton coupler at the hitch to run accessories.

Used a 150psi switch even though the compressors are rated for 200.  The tank I have is not rated 200.

Ok so that catches us up through the major wiring and circuitry.  Still to wire and install is the fuel pump for the aux fuel tank and the air bag solenoids and attach to the wiring that is part of the harness and switches in the console.

Next up after that monster marathon post: Interior LEDs...an easy one.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2015, 10:39:36 PM »
I bought from Super Bright LEDs


4410-CW9 Cool White ? for the dome and reading
WLED-AHP5 Amber and WLED-RHP5 Red ? 194 bulbs for the running lights on the dually fenders

Now the led 194 bulbs don?t really look any different than the standard bulbs once installed, but I guess they?ll last for ever.

So in case you don?t know, you reach around from behind the fender and squeeze the clip on one side of the light and it pops out the front so you can remove the socket with a twist

Before


After



Removing the dome light requires a small pry tool and work from the front to pry the front edge rearward and then down.

The reading and dome lights look a lot whiter but no brighter.  Epic fail.  Have to regroup.

This is the best contrast picture

Both installed

Both front and rear installed.  Like the color.  Needs to be brighter
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2015, 10:42:05 PM »
So after reading Mr Transynd's post
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/transmission-shop/95342-former-allison-transmission-fluids-engineer-mr-transynd.html
I decided I would exchange fluid early in the life of the truck in hopes of a long and happy life for the stock Allison.  Thus the double drain and fill dance.


I found a shop that services and rebuilds Allisons about 1/2 mile from my house.  But not the 1000s, they work on the big ones.  Nice guys and were happy to order me the 5 gal pail of Transynd and a couple of genuine Allison filters.



Hard to really tell from this pic, but what I drained looked as good as what comes out of a bottle.  14K miles of which 7K is towing.

 


Do this and then drive it around for 15-20 minutes to get the fluid flowing through the locked up TC and then repeat.
Since I had a cheap filter laying around, I changed the filter twice, checking to make sure the magnet was present.
The pics would look the same the second time:poke[1]:

Then make sure you top off and accurately measure the level.  Trans needs to be about 165 to be at operating temp and then in park level to check.

I used about 4 gallons total to do the double drain and fill, which leaves me with about a gallon left.  I only put about 7 quarts in the first time so it was not completely full when I drove it around.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #19 on: April 20, 2015, 10:44:47 PM »
May be getting a little out of order, but here we go.

I put the Nicktane adapter on and a 1micron full synthetic media filter.  But that left me with no water separator.  I wanted to run the Nicktane water separator and filter set up near the tank but began to wonder if all that sucking through 3 filters would be bad for the CP4.

So, since I need more filtration, I need a pump.  My AD165 has been a good pump on my LB7.  I highly recommend Henry at Creatures of the Night.  Very responsive and good to deal with.



Lay out all the contents, do inventory, print and read instructions.

I noted that the unit had a notice in it that they had substituted the AN-8 fittings for the quick connect. Some say there have been leaking issues (air sucking) with the QD, but regardless, they should not have straight AN fittings when the hose has to make a 180 degree bend to get back to the frame rail. More on that later.


Install the fittings to the housing using Rector Seal

Mock up the bracket and get ready to find the mounting spot and mark the holes for drilling
I had to go get this handy little right angle attachment for my impact driver.  You can't get a drill in between the tank and the bracket and on the other side, I have my 5 gal air tank so same story on the other side of that bracket.

Mocked up

Some substitute stainless hardware for mounting, but I live in Texas.  No salt so I use the factory stuff.  But I use loc-tite to be sure.

So bolt it all up and then get read to run the plumbing.  I had to lower the tank since I can't get my hands up in there. Remove outer shield and then unbolt 2 straps placing jack with board underneath.

Lower the tank about 4-5 inches enough to get to the return suction line (the bigger of the two)  Blow the fitting with air to remove contaminants, and then press the side of the fitting to release and then pull off.  Push the new QD hose on the tank, route forward to the area where the pump is mounted and then raise tank, install and tighten the straps and then install the tank shield.


Good picture of how the pressure hose has to bend 180 degrees to get back to the frame rail.  It has to make a fairly tight bend and it's too close to the drive shaft for my liking.  Better fittings coming later. Note the return line for the pump has a nice 180 fitting on it.  The hose they sent for the pressure did too, but you have to cut it off to use the substituted AN-8.  Brilliant....
I like where it is located.  Some believe it needs more protection.  I'm good with it.


Return line needs to be shortened so use one of the barbed hose splices. and install the fitting in the fuel filler hose.  Note that I already had one for the RDS auxiliary tank, so I now have 2.

Lots of stuff going on right here.  Air compressor, aux tank feed (and fuel pump later), fuel filler and now the return for the AD165
So there is a nice wiring harness long enough for the CC/LB.  Plug and play.  I was not using the pressure warning light so I taped up the other connector.
Routed the harness up to the front by the firewall.  Mounted the fuse holder and relay with self tapping screws.  Do not put the relay where I did.  Looks great but the hood interferes when shutting....Use the existing ground point under the hood for the ground.

The instructions tell you to mount the battery positive to the alternator along with the ground.  I preferred to use a different location.  The negative gets shortened and uses the factory ground point on the firewall.  The positive gets shortened and run to the positive stud at the front of the under hood fuse box.  Much neater that way.  Wire loom everything nicely.


I don't like tapping fuses, but since this is just for the trigger to the relay, I'm OK with it.  I chose the engine fuse since I need it to come on when remote starting, which a RAP or other accessory will not come on with remote start.  Not until you put the key in and turn it one.

Some fittings I ordered that I will play with to rectify the AN-9 straight fitting.

Gratuitous cat shot of one of my Egyptian Maus. 


Up next. FINALLY! The electric fuel pump for my auxiliary tank that connects to the switches in the overhead console...
« Last Edit: April 20, 2015, 10:46:08 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2015, 10:57:57 PM »
Rather than put an air pressure gauge on my system and have the ricer gauge pod (no offense guys, just not my "old man" style) I wanted to take advantage of the functionality of the CTS and use it to monitor the air pressure, have a real pyro and a differential temperature probe.  And monitor the health of the truck in general when towing.  I strive to be unique and subtle...mostly. so I did not like the dash pod or the suction cup mount for a number of reasons and decided to do something custom.

First, a big thanks to Henry at Creatures of the Night Performance.  He is a great guy to do business with.  Responsive, good prices, fast shipping.    I bought the Insight CTS and the expansion kit with the pyro, the pressure sensor and the temperature sensor.

As I looked around for a place to mount it I realized that unfortunately there are scumbags everywhere would are likely to bust out a window to grab a CTS that is mounted where it can easily be seen, thinking it is a GPS.  Since I'm not deleted and not going to race my LML, I don't need it right in front of my face all the time but I want it permanently mounted.

So after looking at three possible locations I decided to put it here:



I figured I could create a sheet metal piece to go behind the knee kick panel and make it look pretty good. So, here we go.

Went to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap little bender that would bend 18ga steel.  Used a square to put a reference line in the middle so I can keep the piece straight.


Got me a piece of 20 ga sheet metal and used my electric shears I also picked up from HF to cut a strip just a little narrower than the CTS.

Got the shape I wanted on the bender

pulled the knee bolster off to find the screws I needed to attach the bracket to.  Note the tape is for location so that the unit does not hit the door panel when the door is closed.

Made a cardboard template to locate the holes and transferred that to the sheet metal.


Note the notch to allow the clip on the knee bolster to mate with the dash

Drilled the holes.  The locator pin is larger than the bolt holes
Looks like this mocked up


Then I trimmed one side to clear the connectors

Then, in order to be able to have it fit so tight to the dash, I had to make an extension cable that would allow me to bend the wires easier as the factory cables are molded with strain relief.  That meant figuring out what the exact connectors used on the back of the CTS were.  Mouser has them and they are Molex brand Micro Fit 3.0 series.
The 6 position receptacle is
538-43020-0600 - receptacle (what the factory CTS cable will connect to)
538-43025-0600 - plug (what will plug into the back of the CTS)
The 16 position receptacles are
538-43025-1600 - plug (what will plug into the back of the CTS)
53843020-1600 - receptacle (what the factory CTS cable will connect to)
The terminals are PN
538-43031-0001
538-43030-0001

These things are small and if you are older, you will need good light and your reading glasses to get them crimped correctly and seated in the fixtures. Look carefully at the male terminals as they have one side that is open and it must pass by a tab in the plug so don't force it.





Here you can see the inability of the factory connector to bend and the one that I made.

Since I'm not planning on removing and installing frequently I don't need the strain relief.
So I get those cables made and double check each connector in each cable for continuity to make sure.
Then I crack the case on the CTS so that I can attach it to the bracket.  Make sure to be careful with the speaker that is in the back half as it must be pried out with a small screwdriver to make sure you don't break a wire.

The I drill two holes 1/8 inch for pop rivets.  After mocking it up and marking the holes.

Here it is mounted before I reassemble the CTS


In order for the wires to fit between the panel and dash, I cut a very small notch

Then to allow the wires to pass through, I used my dremel tool to cut an opening to pass the cables through to the interior of the dash

checking fitment

Mounted up and ready to reinstall the knee bolster


Finished product



And while the knee bolster was off, I mounted a Blackhawk Serpa holster.  We'll see that next..
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2015, 10:58:42 PM »
So I had an old OWB Serpa holster lying around not being used.  It fits most every Glock I own except the 21, 20, 30, and 36.  After seeing Flyin6's build thread I was not sure I wanted one there but since I didn't need this holster, I figured "why not"

I had some Krylon camo paint laying around that I use to paint my kit from time to time depending on where I plan to be and what time of year it is. That color is pretty close to the color of my interior. 

Gave it a spray

Measured the holes carfully


screwed it to the bolster with some 8-32 screws 1/2 inch long


I like the serpa mounted as it will not allow the weapon to fall out.  You must manipulate the mechanism to draw from the holster.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #22 on: April 20, 2015, 11:01:24 PM »
Ok, so got the custom CTS mount fabricated and it was time to tackle the EAS interface and the pyro/temp/pressure. 

Again, my anal nature of wiring took over and I realized that I did not want a splice in any of the sensor wires going to the sending units.  I researched and found that the connections used at the EAS adapter are Weatherpack by Delphi and the pressure sensor connection is a Delphi Metripack.

Mouser has all the pieces I needed.  Ordered wire, connectors and terminals so that I can create the harness at the exact length and no splices.

If you buy the terminal removal tool (PN 12014012) you can disassemble the weatherpack and reuse everything but the terminal.

12010300 is the cavity plug (for empty wire positions, like the temp sensor that only has one of the three wires used)
15324982 is the wire seal (goes on the wire before crimping to provide a water-tight connection
12089188-L is the terminal to crimp on the wire

For the Metripack- the 3 position plug for the pressure sensor you can buy the plug (PN 12065287) or just the terminals (PN 12110236-L) In this fitting you run the wire through the fitting, then terminate and then pull the terminal back into the fitting until it clicks, then the rear cavity seal just presses in.  It takes a really small flat piece of sheet metal (shim material) to depress the tab to facilitate removal of the terminals if you want to re-use the one CTS sent.

So created an exact length harness, wrapped it in loom (its starting to look like a nuclear submarine under the frame rail where all the additional electrical harnesses are!) and ran it to the back corner of the frame to match up with the air bag solenoid manifold I created.


here is where they terminate up front to match up to the EAS connectors.  The single yellow wire is for the temp sensor and that will be installed in the rear diff next when I get it back from the powder coater


here is where it all comes together under the hood.  One EAS connection is for the pyro which will run to the passenger side. The other is for the temp and pressure sensor. You can expand these as much as you like (up to 8 I think) which would make for a very expensive set up as these accessories are not cheap.  They make switch function connectors so you can control them from the CTS if you don't want to add a switch for a particular function.


I later trimmed the zip ties (I know you would say something JDub)

I cant find some of the other pics of the terminals and routing the cables, but you get the idea.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline JR

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 5547
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #23 on: April 21, 2015, 02:26:38 AM »
That is great work!!

Now how do you fit a new truck, gumbo (looks great), airhorns, gun mount, HF tools and a wreck into 1 thread and 30 minutes of reading,,,,,,,,,,,

I like the CTS mount OOS and the attention to wiring. I taped into a few of those power outlets using trailer control plugs, work great!

By the way, not sure how long ago those injectors were replaced but there was a court ordered recall on that up to 200K. You may have some $$ coming back.
Retired LEO  Lifetime NRA+  Outcast in Calif

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants"

Thomas Jefferson

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #24 on: April 21, 2015, 07:30:26 AM »
Thanks, JR.  I work fast!
 There was a 7 year limit along with the 200K miles. So I'm on my own there.

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online Flyin6

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 17907
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #25 on: April 21, 2015, 09:03:16 AM »
Anybody else lovin' this build thread like I am?

Thanks Red Neck for bringin' it home!
Site owner    IS 6:8  Psalm 91 
NSDQ      Author: Distant Thunder

Online KensAuto

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 3950
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #26 on: April 21, 2015, 09:36:31 AM »
Someone was busy this morning. Looks great Tex!!

Offline Dawg25385

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 2019
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #27 on: April 21, 2015, 10:11:43 AM »
The pin drops out, the trailer lands on the bed rails and the pin box crushes the tail gate.  Yep the one that just got repaired in the shop......

Ever look into the Blue Ox Bedsaver?
2006 Chevrolet 2500 HD 6.6
Prov 27:17, 2 Tim 1:7
NRA Life Member

Offline Sammconn

  • A Guy in the Sticks
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 2456
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #28 on: April 21, 2015, 11:27:40 AM »
Anybody else lovin' this build thread like I am?

Thanks Red Neck for bringin' it home!
Oh, yeah, probably a lot of us are there big D.
Awesome attention to detail Redneck!
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline JR

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 5547
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #29 on: April 21, 2015, 02:35:40 PM »
I didn't do any damage but I dropped a 45 footer once off a yard mule (555 cummins with hyd 5th lift and air lock) it was full of empty budwiser bottles and for some unknown reason the landing gear didn't fold and I kept my job.

By the way, this kept me up late as I had to finish the read, lots of cool stuff.
Retired LEO  Lifetime NRA+  Outcast in Calif

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants"

Thomas Jefferson

Offline mjmbrown

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 88
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #30 on: April 21, 2015, 05:59:06 PM »
Love this thread. Just like Don's attention to detail and pictures! Excited and cant wait for more.

Offline Drunksailor

  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 52
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #31 on: April 21, 2015, 06:23:15 PM »
Lots of work and it looks great. Got yourself a good looking truck there!
-Seth

?Anyone in any walk of life who is content with mediocrity is untrue to himself and to American tradition.?
― George S. Patton Jr.

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #32 on: April 21, 2015, 09:59:22 PM »
OK, After the air pressure sensor, it was time to tap the passenger side manifold to install the pyro.  I struggled with drilling with the manifold on the truck, but in the end decided that I would not remove the manifold.  You may decide differently.

Remove the passenger wheel and inner fender.
I located a flat spot on the manifold and marked it with a center punch.



Drilled the hole with a 5/16 drill bit using lots of lube for cutting.  Stopped short of breaking through


Then I remote started the engine to let the pressure push the chips out

and finished the hole with light pressure so that the chips are small.  Note here: wear safety glasses unless you are itching for a trip to the eye doctor..  That exhaust blows chips out at high speed.
Then I used a 1/8 pipe thread tap to thread the hole.  I coated the tap with grease to capture the shavings and only cut about one turn at a time and then removed the tap, cleaned it and re-greased it and cut another turn taking care to work the tap forward and backward to lessen the bind on the tap. Also, don't run the tap all the way in since the material on the manifold is fairly thin and you want the bung to get tight before it bottoms out.


Use a little antisieze on the bung


install the pyro being careful not to bend


Next up, the controversial differential temperature probe.....
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 06:02:42 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #33 on: April 21, 2015, 10:04:10 PM »
The last sensor of the CTS was to be connected as a temperature sensor in the rear differential since I already had a factory temp sensor for the transmission that I can read from the CTS.  What started off as a joke has blossomed into a full fledged experiment.   There has been a lot of discussion about aftermarket diff covers with higher capacity and cooling fins and whatnot.  No one to my knowledge has actually measured the temperature with the factory cover to see if there is any need for additional cooling.

So we start with a factory AAM cover and weld a piece of 1/4 steel plate to it to provide support for the temperature sensor.




then it gets powdercoated gloss black

Drilled and tapped.


install the sensor

sensor from the inside of the cover

here we are getting ready to drain

the drain plug is under the bottom


here is the diff with 20000 miles

cover the guts with an old t shirt before scraping gaskets

scotch brite,razor scraper and a dremel tool

chase the threads to get all the threadlocker out.


I used a FelPro  Felpro #FEL RDS55478 with a little copper coat gasket sealer sprayed on to both sides to make it a bit tacky and keep it in place.
side by side. the powdercoated one looks better

decided to use some stainless socket cap screws 8x1.25x25

thanks to Willie at Synthetic Motorsports for the gear oil (and PS fluid so you know whats coming next)
What is interesting is that what came out was about 2 quarts plus 28 ounces.  No leaks no seeping and thus no logical reason why it didn't hold the 3.2 quarts that it was supposed to.  I put 3 quarts plus 6 ounces back in.

small funnel and cleartubing to pour fluid

just need a small bracket to insert behind one of the lower bolts to secure the probe wire


First short 10 mile drive it got to 124 degrees. More to come,espeically as I drive to NM with the 5er
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 06:02:01 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #34 on: April 21, 2015, 10:06:43 PM »
Ok. More statistically valid tests for diff temp today. 91 degrees ambient temperature. Diff filled with 3qts and 6oz of Amsoil 75-90 severe gear.

At 70 mph steady speed. Avg 164
At 75 mph steady speed. Avg 173
At 85mph steady speed. Avg 183

All temps unloaded with driver and passenger and 90 gallons of fuel onboard

Next trip over July 4th will be towing the 5er. More reports to come.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2015, 10:14:39 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #35 on: April 22, 2015, 07:02:53 AM »
So I began to get over my phobia of deleting and decided that longevity on these engines was more likely if I unburdened them from all the restrictions.  At about 20,000 miles I felt that any major issues would have surfaced and now was the time to give it a chance to breathe.  Having never done it before, I enlisted the help of a couple of friends and in one long marathon night, we removed the exhaust, changed the downpipe, removed/plugged the sensors and installed a 4 inch exhaust with a muffler.

Parts a cometh



Flowmaster Hushpower Diesel Muffler (I'm old and respect my neighbors and heard really great things about the sound levels and power with this unit)

Nice view inside the muffler

4 inch Pro Flow.  About as good as a kit gets.  As I'll comment on later, because it is a one size fits all kit built to be shipped, there are just too many connections, which I rectified by having it welded up.

PPE stainless heat wrapped down pipe.  A beautifule piece of work that ended up needing a bit of the flange removed to seat all the way in the turbo

Kory Willis tunes on a PPEI autocal
So off comes the old



Here is the flange we had to cut about 1/8 inch off of to get it to seat.  A shame since otherwise this is a beautiful piece

Side by side, note the flat area of restriction on the stock part.

this area is where a lot of the real work happens, and up top where it bolts to the turbo.  I had no trouble sliding the old out and the new in.
One other nit pick thing. the hole in the top of the downpipe where one of the EGT sensors go was too small for the factory sensor to fit in and thread all the way so I clipped it off and threaded it in since it would not be used anyway.
After I finished I took it to a muffler shop and had the exhaust all welded up and a tip put on it. 

I can't tell you how much more I love the truck deleted.  I increased my mileage nearly 3 mpg towing my 5er.  From 9.4 to 11.7.  How can the EPA say burning that much more fuel is a good thing?
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 07:03:51 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #36 on: May 08, 2015, 11:33:15 PM »
Because of having to grind/cut a little piece off the PPE down pipe,  I think that cost us at least an hour as we had to make a midnight run to wallyworld to get a grinder.....

Everyone was shocked at how easy the PPE downpipe slid right in after the old one was removed.  No banging no twisting or cussing.  Only problem was that the flange where it slides into the turbo is too deep not allowing the vband clamp to fit.  We wiggled, wriggled, and twisted but it would not fit in far enough.
.


So here are the verdicts:

Downpipe.  Well made, stainless, but PPE really needs to investigate the depth of the turbo mounting flange.  Its a shame that such a nice pipe have such a bad character flaw.  The only other problem was that the pyro sensor hole directly behind the flange was not large enough for the factory sensor to fit back into it so we had to cut it since it won't be connected anyway.  The pipe slid right into place despite the fact that my factory pipe was really tight to the firewall compared to others that Camaro has done so he expected a battle to get it in.  PPE must have a little tighter radius at that first bend.  Overall, I give them a B-.  I would give them a A+ if they corrected the flange and the sensor hole.

Proflow 4 inch aluminized exhaust.  This is probably the biggest dissapointment for me.  Probably not for the EC/SB truck guys, but ProFlow (others may be the same way so I can't say they are the only ones) makes exhaust kits to be one sized fits all trucks and there are 3 separate small sections of pipe that all get clamped together to make the system long enough to connect on the CC/LB trucks.  They should have a specific part number and kit for each so that the kit could have few parts and connections.  It would make for a so much nicer kit.  I'm happy now that I spent another $160 to have it cut, welded and done right and would have just rather have spent the money to buy a more well designed kit for the CC/LB.  I don't like having 5 clamps in a system. They are all weak points IMO.  I give them a D grade.  I would have given them an A if they had a single pipe for the CC/LB.  Come on guys, we expect better.

HushPower Muffler (now called the Flowmaster Pro Series).  I give this a A.  It knocks the hairdryer sound down to less than the sound coming from the AirDog.  It keeps a good tone but mutes it really, really well.  Last night coming home with the windows down at 3am, the straight pipe was nasty.  Good nasty, but still way too loud for my old man daily driver tastes (never mind my LB7 is straight piped and side dumped).  The 14020100 muffler is awesome.  Highly recommend.

AutoCal and PPEI, well, what can I say?  Its night and day difference between stock.  I've only had it on the street (150hp) tune and not really run it hard yet. but so far so good.  I can't wait to hook up the 5er and put the tow tune in to see how it pulls and what kind of mileage I can get.  I'm going to give Kory a A here with further evaluation forthcoming.

Ripley's muffler shop did a great job tidying all the exhaust up.  If you are in Houston, I recommend them.  If you have the tuner, they will remove all the factory exhaust and install a system of your choice, e.g. Magnaflow, FlowPro, MBRP, etc.  They can also order bends in 4 and 5 inch and fab a custom system.  They don't have a machine to bend more than 3 inch pipes but they fab with prebent components.

So, I don't know how accurate the DIC is but I reset the  mileage average and on the highway it was showing 23mpg.  Combined 50 mile round trip hwy/stop and go it registered 19.4mpg.  I am excited to see how much of a bump in mileage I get and will report back.

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #37 on: May 08, 2015, 11:35:47 PM »
Ok, went out and tided up the connectors disconnected from the delete.  Completed the PCV reroute and want to go get some more hose to take it all the way to the rear.
went ahead and changed the oil even though I probably could have gotten another 7500 on the Amsoil and dual remotes.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #38 on: May 08, 2015, 11:36:53 PM »
Anyone ever run one of these?
Its an oil vapor separator by Moroso.  they make them for all types of high performing cars and the idea is to keep the closed system but keep the oil out of the engine intake.


I was content to just run the hose to the back of the truck and then started thinking about keeping a closed system and routing the cleaned fumes back to the intake to maintain that slight vacuum on the crankcase.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #39 on: May 08, 2015, 11:38:07 PM »
Quote from: KensAuto;5838738
I think Big D installed one of those....good luck finding which page (My Build Thread).

You still grinnin' from the tune? I am, everyday I drive mine.

yeah,  took the wife and kids to get some Pho for dinner and hammered it a bit.  She was not concerned about the small increase in sound over stock, which was good.

I just loaded the tow tune this evening so I'll see how I like that one tomorrow.

Donaldson make a version of that:
spiracle s040033
But I can't find a place to buy one?  They look a little more OEM

Mann makes a Provent 400

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #40 on: May 08, 2015, 11:39:50 PM »
On that note, I'm headed outside to re-install the factory PCV until I decide what closed system to go with...

Last thing I want is an oil leak.  And I'm not keen on the smell either.

Anyone want a smoking deal on a slightly used PCV delete kit from dirty hooker diesel?
« Last Edit: May 08, 2015, 11:41:03 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #41 on: May 08, 2015, 11:42:26 PM »

So here is what Alldata says about the CCV system.

An oil/air separator (1) is located on the left valve cover. Oil entrained gases from the crankcase enter the separator through a passage in the left valve cover. The gases flow through fixed and variable nozzles inside the separator which aid in removing oil from the gases. The gases exit through a hose (2) and are returned to the intake stream through a CDR (crankcase depression regulator) valve (3). The CDR valve limits crankcase vacuum to -1.5 kPa at higher engine speeds.

Oil removed from the crankcase gases at the separator pass through tubing (4) and down to a check valve (5) at the bottom of the engine front cover (6). The oil drain check valve prevents the back-flow of crankcase pressure upwards through the drain. It allows oil to flow back to the crankcase when drain column pressures are above 2 kPa.

Crankcase pressures are maintained between approximately -1.5 and +4 kPa during all engine operation modes.

With a closed crankcase ventilation system, it is normal for oil residue to be found on the turbocharger compressor wheel and inside the charge air cooler, pipes, and hoses.

No routine maintenance is required to the crankcase ventilation system.



So the LML has an oil separator from the factory and a drain line.  Is this significantly different than the LMM or older and is it more effective at keeping oil out of the turbo?
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #42 on: May 08, 2015, 11:43:59 PM »
Think I'm going with this:



the question is where to mount.  no place under the hood.  Maybe on the frame rail and then back up to the intake.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #43 on: May 08, 2015, 11:46:20 PM »
42 draftdesigns catch can

Quote from: OVERWATCH_09;5856426
Haven't seen anybody point it out specifically, so I will.  Did you see Don's PCV reroute? 
 

Someone did, but wasn't so kind as to provide the link.  Looks like Don went with open PCV.  I'm going to stay closed.  I believe that negative crankcase pressure provided by the closed system will help prevent main oil seal leaks.

Well, the desire is to have a device that separates oil vapor from the air and then returns the clean air to the engine that was removed from the crankcase.  The negative pressure created by the vacuum going into the engine is supposed to help keep engine oil seals in good working order.....and the greenies from thinking we are polluting the world with engine vapors being release to the atmosphere. There is an oil separator from the factory but I guess people don't believe it works as well as it should.  Or people are extremely paranoid about the impact of oil vapor on the intercooler...

Not sure, but physics class seemed to imply that heat transfer was more effective from a liquid than a gas, so I'd have to think about the supposed negative effects of oil in the intercooler.  Like a water cooled intercooler....

hmm in the end its probably a waste of $200, but it keeps my post count going...
« Last Edit: May 08, 2015, 11:49:53 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #44 on: May 08, 2015, 11:50:46 PM »
Oh! Snap. 3 mpg better towing the 5er according to the DIC. That's $85 every 1000 miles
This weekend towing at 64mph steady in 94degree weather the differential temp was 189 degrees.

I sure like taking my kids camping (if you can call it that) in our 42ft 5th wheel.  It really gives me a chance to connect with them, teach them about nature and more importantly, teach them about who created nature.  If the Lord blesses them with kids, I hope they remember times we had in the 5er
« Last Edit: May 08, 2015, 11:54:45 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #45 on: May 08, 2015, 11:57:51 PM »
Up some really steep hills with the 60hp tune at 65 on cruise it tickled 1400 just briefly which means I may back it down to tune #1 for the trip to NM.

I'm going to monitor the rear diff temps closely and then get the dodge AAM aluminum cover to see if it makes any difference.

Only thing I would have done different is to have deleted a long time ago.  CP4 failures seem to be over blown.  Use a lift pump and add lubricity to the fuel and you are not likely to have problems.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #46 on: May 09, 2015, 12:01:17 AM »
Ok so the inside dually wheels are always a pain to inflate with the little rubber valve stems that flop when you try to get on them. So I decided to put metal stems on but I don't trust the local tire shop not to over tighten them or to not correctly double nut the stem and use locktite. So I thought I'd do it myself.


Air bottle jack helps
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #47 on: May 09, 2015, 12:02:35 AM »
get em in and them air em up.  No need to rebalance.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #48 on: May 09, 2015, 12:03:45 AM »
So here is a little bit of funny.

I'm backed into my little driveway which angles down to the street.  On the rear I had the E-brake on and with the floor jack supporting one side, as I started to break the bead on the tire under the hitch, the truck started to roll forward as the bottle jack took weight off the rear while I was breaking the bead... scared the crap outta me and make me go put chocks in front of the front wheels....
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Online TexasRedNeck

  • punching bag for moderator humor
  • Registered
  • **
  • Posts: 5260
    • View Profile
Re: Redneck Dually Build Thread
« Reply #49 on: May 09, 2015, 12:05:50 AM »
So tomorrow I get the LML ready for the drive to NM with the 5er.  I'll be adding a small vertical tool box at the back to keep tools locked up, spare idler pulleys, tensioner, belts, filters, and fluids.  If it take more than that it will be AAA to the rescue.  I'll leave with a full load of fuel and won't have to fuel up until my way back from NM. about 85 gallons and 12.9mpg is what I expect on this trip.  Of course the girls will have to pee about every 1/2 hour....
Its this one.  It has a quick release mount that bolts to the bed floor between the wheel well and the tailgate.

« Last Edit: May 09, 2015, 12:06:21 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24