REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc => Topic started by: JR on May 10, 2017, 04:27:51 PM
-
Ok guys, lets get a little thread going on what you have for a welder. Mig, gas, tig or stick.
Lets see some pics, why you got that and tips for the novice guys (include me, just enough to be dangerous)
-
I have, the standard tanks running HF torches and never had an issue with them.
I have had a couple smaller 120 migs (both Lincoln) and got a Miller 211 a couple years back. It is 120/240 and has auto settings I rarely use. I use it with gas only.
Also have a Thermal Dynamic Plasma cutter 42. Put them both on the same cart (need a bigger one now) and it is 120/240 also.
I also modified the stock cart to handle both the Mig and the plasma; http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=606.msg6953#msg6953
-
I too have the 211 autoset, which I think I have used the auto feature only once or twice. I am barely dangerous when it comes to welding, never was really taught anything about it, just picked up the mig gun at the shop in lejeune and went to town.
One thing with smaller machines it is imperative to know the duty cycle of your machine, especially if you are using it at max capacity.
-
We have a Miller 252 in the shop. Should have gotten a bigger one. My brother wanted to get a spool gun for welding aluminum. They are not compatible with the 252. Maybe they are now but they weren't at the time we inquired about it.
We also installed a John Deere welderator on the service truck. Stick Welder, generator, and air compressor all in one. I don't know if its something I would use all day every day but it has handled everything I've thrown at it. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170510/8ace82f4adaaf75226bfdac56b19d8aa.jpg)
Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk
-
Miller 212 and hypertherm 45 in the shop
Will be adding to the collection for farm duties...
-
Miller XMT 304 cc/cv & old school oxy acetylene torch (torch because it has more capabilities than a hand plasma for the record if you know how to use one anyhow).
Welder has air arc capabilities but have yet to try out that option. Definitely not the setup for exhaust work.
-
I have also done a lot of stick welding. DC is my favorite and much of that was implement repair. Learned a lot of basics doing that.
Am going to try using a small flux core wire on my next exhaust and see how it goes. For the body work I am using a copper plate behind the small holes to plug that stops burn through.
-
I have a Lincoln Power Mig 255. It is an little bit older of a unit I bought used a few years back. I own a 120 tank for it but lease a 300 because I was going through the 120 so fast and this way I have a back-up on hand should I run out on a Friday night like I usually do. I recently replaced the whip with a Tregaskis. I was surprised how much better the welder performed by just switching that over. Not really sure why but it just seems to run smoother.
I also have a Hypotherm plasma torch. Not sure which one it is at the moment. Might be the 45 or possibly the size under that.
-
My mig is a no name 'Deca' that I picked up in 2004 new for 399.99 at Princess Auto. (Our equivalent to Harbor Freight) it's a 240 volt only unit 180A capable. Will do gas and flux core.
No auto anything but does a good job. No clue how many hundreds of pounds of wire it's ate up over the years. Been a solid little unit.
Have two arc welder so, one Lincoln, not sure on the other.
Looking to get a plasma at some point.
Have been looking at the multi process machines hard, no real need for tig capability right now, but the option would be nice. Then I could learn how to do it...lol.
-
I have a Lincoln Power Mig 255. It is an little bit older of a unit I bought used a few years back. I own a 120 tank for it but lease a 300 because I was going through the 120 so fast and this way I have a back-up on hand should I run out on a Friday night like I usually do. I recently replaced the whip with a Tregaskis. I was surprised how much better the welder performed by just switching that over. Not really sure why but it just seems to run smoother.
I also have a Hypotherm plasma torch. Not sure which one it is at the moment. Might be the 45 or possibly the size under that.
I personally had a 255, the stock whip is junk. Ran several of them in my old shop (day job), first upgrade was always a 400 amp tweco gun & whip. Problem with the stock whip is the unit will easily heat up the gun & things get tight (wire won't feed). A good gun is designed to work under harsh conditions. Other tip that helps when welding long & hard is to run the next size up tip. So if you're running .035 wire don't run .035 tips FYI just bump it up a size. The machine won't notice the difference but you will. New whips come in longer lengths too, 12' is max length I recommend. Anything over that & you will cause yourself more headaches.
-
That makes sense. I will have to try running the next size tips. I need to order a bunch for this new whip.
-
General welding tip. Make sure you clean your hood lens often. You would be surprised how just a little bit of a film will affect how well you can see.
-
Tell me more about the Tregaskis whip? Just have my stock miller now which works OK and I eat up tips (good idea on upping the size).
I like the idea of the 12' also, get tired of pulling the machine close to my work which ends being a sloped driveway most of the time.
I used to coat the gas hood with anti-splatter, just been to lazy for that lately.
-
The whip I have was given to me by a buddy. They were getting rid of some Miller welders at work and this whip was left behind. He gave it to me about 5 yrs ago and I just had it hanging on the wall. I was originally told it would be expensive to get it to work on my Lincoln. About 2 months ago I had a bumper roll off my welding table and slice the Lincoln whip open. A new Lincoln whip would have cost north of $350 I was told. I did some research for Tregaskiss and found all I needed was a power pin to get it to run on my Lincoln. I found somebody selling it on Ebay for $20.
When I was looking online for the parts I would need it looked like you would be spending $600 - $700 for a new one. I really didn't look into that end of it to much though. Both the old and new whip are 12' I think. Sometimes I wish it was longer like when I was working on this trailer project but generally it is a good length.
-
Looks like Bernard is the parent company. Ebay has them for around $200. I do need a longer whip though and a nicer gun would be good. I remember getting a teflon liner for my old 125 lincoln and it helped.
-
Our tweco whips ran around $300 FYI. I've used tregaskiss stuff & it seems as good as tweco imo. We also ran Bernard & a lot of their stuff works with Tweco, again similar quality.
More tips, I always use screw on 2 piece nozzles. Do not run the push on nozzles they suck. The other thing to be careful of is that the tip should be recessed inside the end of the nozzle a good 1/8-1/4" if it is protruding past the end if the nozzle you either have a mismatched setup or in some cases you may be missing a washer that acts as a spacer for the nozzle as some setups run.
If you buy junk Chinese imported wire expect poor results possibly. Granted we ran off brand wire for non air tight welds etc but if you're building pressure vessels or barges / high stress structural welds etc run the high dollar Lincoln wire. My opinion is that it's the best wire available.
-
The last spool of wire I bought I tried some stuff from Harris. They are a Lincoln subsidiary. I found it online and with Prime shipping it was substantially cheaper than buying a spool at Airgas or Praxair. It seems to be running very nicely so far. I buy 44lbs though so there may not be as much of a difference for some of you guys buying smaller spools.
-
Our tweco whips ran around $300 FYI. I've used tregaskiss stuff & it seems as good as tweco imo. We also ran Bernard & a lot of their stuff works with Tweco, again similar quality.
More tips, I always use screw on 2 piece nozzles. Do not run the push on nozzles they suck. The other thing to be careful of is that the tip should be recessed inside the end of the nozzle a good 1/8-1/4" if it is protruding past the end if the nozzle you either have a mismatched setup or in some cases you may be missing a washer that acts as a spacer for the nozzle as some setups run.
If you buy junk Chinese imported wire expect poor results possibly. Granted we ran off brand wire for non air tight welds etc but if you're building pressure vessels or barges / high stress structural welds etc run the high dollar Lincoln wire. My opinion is that it's the best wire available.
I would take his advice people. remember the welds on the Cmax diff cover? I've only ever used a little craftsman stick welder. Dad bought me a really nice miller for Christmas one year and it along with my top box were stolen out of the back of the wagoneer in my apt complex. never got to even wire up the welder.
-
Welding wire is drawn from green rod, a few years back china flooded the market with some low buck green rod and if I recall correctly we had a shortage of American made green rod (can't recall why exactly). Anyhow what I'm getting at is there is most likely more than one manufacturer using American green rod. I always bought the lincoln wire but am sure there are others of equal quality.
-
I always bought the lincoln wire but am sure there are others of equal quality.
Is there a difference in Lincoln wire depending on the location you buy it? Say lowes or Home Depot versus Aztec welding supply? Kind of like there is supposedly a difference in tools from big box stores and dedicated tool stores.....
Having only ever fully destroyed an angle grinder and no other tools, the tool comparison from locations is a non issue for me if it does exist. But the wire thing, yea that is bought from several places. Lowes is best because of the 10% discount.
-
I only ever bought it in 44 # spools, well we bought a barrel once for our robot but that really doesn't apply. It's Lincoln super arc L56 is the product & we bought it in .035 & .045
-
Excellent tip on the tips Shawn. The only time it really matters is when you're trying to do something precise, like splicing body panels with .023, if you use a bigger tip the wire will tend to work back and forth, like magnetism pushing it away from where you want to weld . At least that's what I've seen.
Another thing, keep the wire dry. If it surface rusts, it will slip on the rollers and play hell on the liner.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
-
For surface rust or dirt on the wire, first keep the spool of wire covered when not in use. Simple cardboard box over the spool will work for this. Second they make wire cleaners that snap on the wire before it inters the liner (so between roll of wire and liner) that is a must have and all welding supplies sell them for a couple bucks. The ones I use are made by tweco & come in a two pack. Looks like a piece of steel wool folded in half and then has a metal clip that slips over it once it's on the wire. It just rides on the wire keeping the liner clean.
Another tip, other than pinched liners they don't go bad per say but do get dirty. Pull liner every few months (having a spare in a plastic bag helps) and then soak liner in mineral spirits for a day. After day of soaking pull liner & blow it out with compressed air. Good as new.....
-
I've been giving some real serious thought about getting a slightly bigger MIG welder. I currently have a Lincoln SP-175, and have been thinking about jumping to a 210 amp machine of some sort. Just for times when I would do a small bit of 1/4".
The ESAB welders seem to be impressing a lot of people. The ESAB Rebel EM215ic (MIG and flux only) looks really good for the money (The EMP215ic is the multi-process version), and their sMIG (smart MIG) feature seems to be quite impressive as well from people I've talked to. Normally I wouldn't stray too far from Miller for Lincoln, but ESAB has a good reputation, and local dealer is only 20 mins away!
-
20 min is worth the drive for a welder. I hear good things about ESAB also, but never used one.
-
One of the units I've used at work was an Esab.
It's been a solid machine. No clue on what model, just works good.
I wouldn't be scared of it, especially at only 20 mins away.
-
Esab are fine machines (core units anyhow), if it were me I would step up to any 250 unit versus a 200. Real shops will use a 250 but will pass on a 200 so the 250 will hold its money better. The drive feeds on the feeder are what I would look at along with the duty cycle. If you don't understand duty cycles have the dealer explain it to you. My 2 cents...
-
I have to say I love my Miller 211 with auto set . Haven't used on 110v yet but has great power and bead for a rookie welder like me. I have yet to put the Hypertherm through it paces yet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/fbe2c3d2f83ae129da6cf51b91349bf9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/f4e2af3c0ad7606225c9b669896f520d.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
That 45 cutter is a beast for it's size. I think you'll enjoy burning steel with that.
-
I have the 211 also, well worth the $$$. I have used it on 110, but 220 is so much better. Get the biggest tank you can. It is usually easy to trade up also when you echange.
I have also had the Plasma 45, now I have a 40. Both work great.
-
Just found out my 211 will not take a 15ft gun. I was looking to upgrade as I always seem to be right at the end welding gun.
So do I upgrade to the new 211 (or better) or just live with it?
The new 211 is smaller and has a better drive system and will handle the 15ft gun.
Then there is the Esab I hear so much about but not sure if there is a local dealer. Have a welder supply in town and a fastenal. Better dealer is 30 minutes away, but where I go for my gas.
-
The dealer I go to has the Esab's and they come with the tweko guns. Temped if they would swap out for the 15ft gun.
-
The dealer I go to has the Esab's and they come with the tweko guns. Temped if they would swap out for the 15ft gun.
we're giving away the ESAB Rebels in a big promotion here at RANDYS. Any real world experience with these things, Shawn? you've always got $0.50 to chime in...
-
I saw the contest, would be sweet.
-
Giving away huh... send one on down to me :)
Oh, I guess i'd probably need to buy something first huh?....
-
I see nothing on Randy's site
-
The dealer I go to has the Esab's and they come with the tweko guns. Temped if they would swap out for the 15ft gun.
we're giving away the ESAB Rebels in a big promotion here at RANDYS. Any real world experience with these things, Shawn? you've always got $0.50 to chime in...
Not that particular model, but I've never ran an esab that I disliked either. We always purchased at bare min a 250 unit & would immediately upgrade to a 400 amp gun (typically tweco) with 12' lead. If you need a longer lead get a longer power cord as you're asking for trouble the longer you get. That's my opinion.....
-
It's a wholesale promo deal, so not listed online. IF collectively, Realman group came up with $10,500 between now and Sept, we'd give ONE of the EMP215IC units that does mig, stick, and tig. You can see how this works better for a shop rather than a forum group. Anywhoo, I was just looking for some feedback from somebody that might have actually used one so I can sound somewhat intelligent when I promote them.
-
Thanks Tate. The more I read the more I like the Esab Rebel. A lot on youtube and a few other sites. I see the Tweco brand on it sometimes, looks like the parent co.
I have been thinking about a stick machine and wanted a Tig machine for some time. The Rebel does it all (cept alum tig). I also saw it welds 1/4 inch on 120ac very well and adjusts to the user in use.
So with what it would cost to have other machines and upgrade mine, I find it is cheaper to get 1 machine that does it all. The miller seems to hold its value very well also and mine looks new.
This would be a great welder for someone with a farm/ranch needing to do it all in a 40lb machine.
-
Anyone have an argument for a mig vs a stick welder. Welding a new tongue jack on my big enclosed this past week. Yes outside. I could tell when a breeze was blowing my gas off and my weld would turn to Instant crap. Than the gas would catch up.
Do you fight elements as much with a stick welder?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Anyone have an argument for a mig vs a stick welder. Welding a new tongue jack on my big enclosed this past week. Yes outside. I could tell when a breeze was blowing my gas off and my weld would turn to Instant crap. Than the gas would catch up.
Do you fight elements as much with a stick welder?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With a mig the gas keeps the weld free of contaminations. The reason you don't weld with gas outside is well because of breezes as you found out. Its the main reason you see pipe line welders with big stick units on their flat bed trucks. Stick welders use flux on the rod to do the same thing, thus the reason you chip it off the weld when completing a stick welding pass. There are ways to protect a mig welder from a breeze when welding outside its just a big pain and stick is normally faster in the long run.
-
Anyone have an argument for a mig vs a stick welder. Welding a new tongue jack on my big enclosed this past week. Yes outside. I could tell when a breeze was blowing my gas off and my weld would turn to Instant crap. Than the gas would catch up.
Do you fight elements as much with a stick welder?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With a mig the gas keeps the weld free of contaminations. The reason you don't weld with gas outside is well because of breezes as you found out. Its the main reason you see pipe line welders with big stick units on their flat bed trucks. Stick welders use flux on the rod to do the same thing, thus the reason you chip it off the weld when completing a stick welding pass. There are ways to protect a mig welder from a breeze when welding outside its just a big pain and stick is normally faster in the long run.
So being the small do it myself guy I have a number of simple projects that I could simply solve with nuts n bolts but welding is much longer lasting. I would think a stick welder would be far simpler for my uses. I can lay a bead a bunch better with the stick than a mig. I’ll go take some pictures of the tongue
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Sorry for the paint but it started raining
Some practice before I started
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/913835c3ff5a0dc0e03aa63d2cdba057.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/133f62dcad4493e8ab42105c953f4316.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/835038baf562d60a1e151ae41e657cfd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/d916daeaabf537f7cebd09e8d70b4375.jpg)
I took some plate drilled some spot weld holes in the back, filled holes, welded the rest of the plate, than welded plate to my trailer.
My first pass on the right of the plate was slick as could be. The left side I fought like hell to get a decent flow from. I ground the weld out twice and gave up as the weather got worse
It’s in there solid for sure but i think a stick welder could have been easier
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Dave did you weld that lying flat or uphill?
Reason is, you use two different techniques when welding vertical with stick vs mig
With a Mig you can weld going down, starting from the top. If its adjusted right, it will fill in just fine
But you start at the bottom and go up with a stick welder. Plus with a stick you go left-right-left, touching each piece as you proceed upward and pause just long enough to control the puddle. Its all about the puddle of melt with the stick and going uphill. On the welding test I took back in the day, that and overhead welding were the two big challenges.
A stick in the hands of someone like Shawn is a magical thing. Mig has less finesse in my view, but it gets the job done easily and is very forgiving. Stick welding requires practice and a pretty steady hand.
-
I have had plenty of stick welding and mig from high school. Three years but that was many years ago and I have forgotten most.
I welded that jack with the mig pushing all up the hill. The left wouldn’t lay flat for me like it had a contaminant in the metal or the gas was non existent
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Dave did you weld that lying flat or uphill?
Reason is, you use two different techniques when welding vertical with stick vs mig
With a Mig you can weld going down, starting from the top. If its adjusted right, it will fill in just fine
But you start at the bottom and go up with a stick welder. Plus with a stick you go left-right-left, touching each piece as you proceed upward and pause just long enough to control the puddle. Its all about the puddle of melt with the stick and going uphill. On the welding test I took back in the day, that and overhead welding were the two big challenges.
A stick in the hands of someone like Shawn is a magical thing. Mig has less finesse in my view, but it gets the job done easily and is very forgiving. Stick welding requires practice and a pretty steady hand.
Technically, you're not supposed to weld down with a mig either. If it's a structural weld I would advise against it.
Don is correct though that there is no weld with a stick called vertical down, it doesn't exist.
-
Dave did you weld that lying flat or uphill?
Reason is, you use two different techniques when welding vertical with stick vs mig
With a Mig you can weld going down, starting from the top. If its adjusted right, it will fill in just fine
But you start at the bottom and go up with a stick welder. Plus with a stick you go left-right-left, touching each piece as you proceed upward and pause just long enough to control the puddle. Its all about the puddle of melt with the stick and going uphill. On the welding test I took back in the day, that and overhead welding were the two big challenges.
A stick in the hands of someone like Shawn is a magical thing. Mig has less finesse in my view, but it gets the job done easily and is very forgiving. Stick welding requires practice and a pretty steady hand.
Technically, you're not supposed to weld down with a mig either. If it's a structural weld I would advise against it.
Don is correct though that there is no weld with a stick called vertical down, it doesn't exist.
Lost with vertical down? I welded that with the plate against the frame, couldn’t lay it on its side.
I understand vertical to be as if you were welding up or down a wall. A vertical surface.
A flat would be something like on a table or horizontal joint,
Tube is simply tube.
Upside down would leave me burned and on fire I assume
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
https://youtu.be/ZZmuP23T4to
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Vertical = up or down weld
Horizontal = side to side
So when welding vertical always start at bottom & work your way upwards. You would think you should start at the top & let gravity work your way down. However, you do not get any penetration this way. You can make a mig weld look good going down & if it's only for asthetics it's ok (thinking light sheet metal etc) but if it's a structural joint such as welding a coupler on the front of a trailer etc it's a no go.
-
That’s why I pushed up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Well, I bow to the one with more weldin' knowledge. But I have welded with a mig going downhill for a pass or two, like on a roll bar tube that is disappearing behind a "B" pillar.
I was only trained and tested with stick, never with mig. I just learned that on my own.
I'll pick up a welder for the farm sooner or later, and I'll probably go with a gas powered stick machine
-
Not saying it isn't possible, probably not advisable though. For awhile I was welding home made dies cut from 1/2" plate for a 250 ton press with a little 125 Lincoln mig. I never broke any of the dies, however that little mig would over heat occasionally when welding. I think it has a 25% duty cycle or something useless like that.....
Edit: got curious & looked it up, I stand corrected. It was a 20% duty cycle.
-
My general rule of thumb for stick vs. mig. If you intend to do sheet metal work, say anything less then 3/16" I would advise the mig welder. If you are doing fabrication work where you are either using clean steel or can easily clean your work up well before fitting parts mig will be more advantageous.
For repair work, and thicker steel (1/2"+) I would recommend stick.
-
As far as welding a vertical down. I do it on occasion. You have to have the welder set-up right and be able to control your puddle well enough to get the penetration though. You will not be able to get as deep of penetration as you could with vertical up but it is still possible to do. You are really actually working against gravity with vertical down. Gravity is pushing the puddle down. You need to keep it up, above where you are welding to get penetration. If you need to move faster then you would like to keep in front of the puddle, or if you are in the puddle there will be no penetration in the weld. You might be fooled because it will probably look pretty but won't be strong.
-
If you weld a vertical down with a mig, turn your gun so the nozzle is facing up. Gas is heavier than air so the gas coming out the end of the mig will be forced up & then settle back down. This should keep your puddle surrounded by the gas. It also allows you to control the puddle some on its decent.
-
My general rule of thumb for stick vs. mig. If you intend to do sheet metal work, say anything less then 3/16" I would advise the mig welder. If you are doing fabrication work where you are either using clean steel or can easily clean your work up well before fitting parts mig will be more advantageous.
For repair work, and thicker steel (1/2"+) I would recommend stick.
Anyone else have thoughts? I can pick up a good tombstone Lincoln stick welder for pretty cheap on the local classified adds like $200 bucks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
What’s the duty cycle on that stick welder?
-
I have had good luck welding down. I found I could control the puddle better. Much depends on the rod, AC vs DC (DC!!!) as well as the technic.
-
I have had good luck welding down. I found I could control the puddle better. Much depends on the rod, AC vs DC (DC!!!) as well as the technic.
JR, many dead welding instructors just rolled over in their graves.......
-
Heat rises. Jus sayin
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
What’s the duty cycle on that stick welder?
I’ll post the add for you to read. I have never researched it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151
lincoln welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720
Millermatic 140 MiG Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I have had good luck welding down. I found I could control the puddle better. Much depends on the rod, AC vs DC (DC!!!) as well as the technic.
JR, many dead welding instructors just rolled over in their graves.......
Well, they are dead,,,,,,,,,,,,,
-
I have had good luck welding down. I found I could control the puddle better. Much depends on the rod, AC vs DC (DC!!!) as well as the technic.
JR, many dead welding instructors just rolled over in their graves.......
Well, they are dead,,,,,,,,,,,,,
:tongue:
-
Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151
lincoln welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720
Millermatic 140 MiG Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Both stick welders show duty cycle of 20%
So how that plays out is that you can run that welder at full tilt for 2 mins & then you need to wait 8 mins before you start welding again.
Here is essentially that unit brand new, find a 10% off coupon to Lowe’s etc.....
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Electric-240-Volt-Stick-Welder/1115275?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-Welding-_-1115275:Lincoln_Electric&CAWELAID=&kpid=1115275&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=220&k_clickID=1f13a2e0-c4e3-1368-fbd0-000002fae39a&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7d2dz-CL1wIVDweGCh2Q3As6EAQYASABEgI5RvD_BwE
Then the bottom is a miller mig unit, as stated I’ve welded with smaller. If it were me I would try to find a Hobart 187 mig. Keep your eye out, they are really good machines for the price point. I welded up a buddies tube chassis 4x4 buggy with one entirely & we abused it afterward with no issues.
The other option is to find a good old large used stick welder. Keep your eye open for shop & farm sales & always look at duty cycle. I’d rather have something in neighborhood of 60-100% duty cycle. And for the record normally you can run past the 20% for a bit but at some point you will smoke the internals doing so. Same goes for mig welders, even the high end units can have their circuit boards get fried etc which is costly to get repaired.
Just my 2 cents....
-
Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=46145151
lincoln welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50047720
Millermatic 140 MiG Welder
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=50087577
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Both stick welders show duty cycle of 20%
So how that plays out is that you can run that welder at full tilt for 2 mins & then you need to wait 8 mins before you start welding again.
Here is essentially that unit brand new, find a 10% off coupon to Lowe’s etc.....
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Electric-240-Volt-Stick-Welder/1115275?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-Welding-_-1115275:Lincoln_Electric&CAWELAID=&kpid=1115275&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=220&k_clickID=1f13a2e0-c4e3-1368-fbd0-000002fae39a&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7d2dz-CL1wIVDweGCh2Q3As6EAQYASABEgI5RvD_BwE
Then the bottom is a miller mig unit, as stated I’ve welded with smaller. If it were me I would try to find a Hobart 187 mig. Keep your eye out, they are really good machines for the price point. I welded up a buddies tube chassis 4x4 buggy with one entirely & we abused it afterward with no issues.
The other option is to find a good old large used stick welder. Keep your eye open for shop & farm sales & always look at duty cycle. I’d rather have something in neighborhood of 60-100% duty cycle. And for the record normally you can run past the 20% for a bit but at some point you will smoke the internals doing so. Same goes for mig welders, even the high end units can have their circuit boards get fried etc which is costly to get repaired.
Just my 2 cents....
Knowledge gained :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
20% is at full tilt. Rarely do you run them maxed out for more than a few minutes.
Those are solid units and have been around for a long time. The one I was used to was a old Lincoln gas unit on a ranch we had on a pallet.
-
20% is at full tilt. Rarely do you run them maxed out for more than a few minutes.
Those are solid units and have been around for a long time. The one I was used to was a old Lincoln gas unit on a ranch we had on a pallet.
Gas units are normally 100% duty cycle.....
I had a miller bobcat & according to pipeline guys they aren’t what a Lincoln is but it was 100% duty cycle too.
The reality is maybe running a rod to rod & half then drink coffee & chew the fat is ok for most. Myself, I would get pissed & it would be a bit of a chit show. I’m an impatient sob when I want something done & many can attest to that fact.
-
I've been thinking lately I'd like to update my generator from a little 3500 watt unit to a bigger one, more like 10KW is what I'm after. Coincidentally enough I've been wanting a stick welder that can do DC. Does anyone here have any experience with something like a Miller Bobcat 250? Looking to hear some thoughts on it both used as welder and as a generator. Always seemed to me it might be a nice mix, as it would see semi-regular use for welding, and therefore should be maintained (ie. less neglected) better than something that's only a generator and can sit for many months at a time without being turned on.
-
I've been thinking lately I'd like to update my generator from a little 3500 watt unit to a bigger one, more like 10KW is what I'm after. Coincidentally enough I've been wanting a stick welder that can do DC. Does anyone here have any experience with something like a Miller Bobcat 250? Looking to hear some thoughts on it both used as welder and as a generator. Always seemed to me it might be a nice mix, as it would see semi-regular use for welding, and therefore should be maintained (ie. less neglected) better than something that's only a generator and can sit for many months at a time without being turned on.
This is what I had for backup power on the farm. I rarely used the welder although it worked fine. Biggest issue was keeping fresh fuel in it. It always was very reliable & started right up. I had even considered converting it over to propane as I had the parts for it. Biggest issue is moving it around, trailer might be handy but everyone can drag that away so I just used skidloader or tractor front end loader to set in back of truck.
-
I've been thinking lately I'd like to update my generator from a little 3500 watt unit to a bigger one, more like 10KW is what I'm after. Coincidentally enough I've been wanting a stick welder that can do DC. Does anyone here have any experience with something like a Miller Bobcat 250? Looking to hear some thoughts on it both used as welder and as a generator. Always seemed to me it might be a nice mix, as it would see semi-regular use for welding, and therefore should be maintained (ie. less neglected) better than something that's only a generator and can sit for many months at a time without being turned on.
This is what I had for backup power on the farm. I rarely used the welder although it worked fine. Biggest issue was keeping fresh fuel in it. It always was very reliable & started right up. I had even considered converting it over to propane as I had the parts for it. Biggest issue is moving it around, trailer might be handy but everyone can drag that away so I just used skidloader or tractor front end loader to set in back of truck.
Right on good to know. I thought about building a little 5x8 trailer if I had such a welder/generator. Might even think about getting the diesel version, though it does add some heft to the price.
-
Needs some metal advise
I need/want to build a new rack to hold all of my air hoses and extension cords in our job trailer. The current one is junk
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/b83388b371f9784346d4b1a95f660928.jpg)
What I would like to do is. Take these U-Bolts (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/15cf6386492626991a489f4190b87e8d.jpg) bend them around some tube maybe 45 degrees and than add some tabs to screw the set up to the wall
Not sure how to order tube from my local company.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I usually reference metalsdeopt for material sizes. I find I can generally find steel about 25% less then there listed prices.
-
I usually reference metalsdeopt for material sizes. I find I can generally find steel about 25% less then there listed prices.
Also see if there is a Metal Supermarket near you Dave, they normally beat metalsdepot for me on pricing & no shipping no costs.
-
Dave, another easy idea. Go to HD, buy unistrut or that angle iron with holes already in it (they use it for garage door opener mounts) & buy some nuts to fit ubolts. Drill holes in unistrut for one side of ubolt then push it thru & nut on top & bottom. Fasten unistrut to wall, same idea with angle with holes in it.
-
Dave, another easy idea. Go to HD, buy unistrut or that angle iron with holes already in it (they use it for garage door opener mounts) & buy some nuts to fit ubolts. Drill holes in unistrut for one side of ubolt then push it thru & nut on top & bottom. Fasten unistrut to wall, same idea with angle with holes in it.
That’s not a bad idea. Only downside I see is it’s nuts n bolts vs me playing with the welder that’s been in my garage for six months.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I have seen some metal adds on the local classified add. I’ll stop in
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Dave, another easy idea. Go to HD, buy unistrut or that angle iron with holes already in it (they use it for garage door opener mounts) & buy some nuts to fit ubolts. Drill holes in unistrut for one side of ubolt then push it thru & nut on top & bottom. Fasten unistrut to wall, same idea with angle with holes in it.
That’s not a bad idea. Only downside I see is it’s nuts n bolts vs me playing with the welder that’s been in my garage for six months.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like strength & if that welder has been sitting for six months the nuts might be stronger than your welding abilities? Maybe not too but just a thought..... :tongue:
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/c97dfc8c89aa505323df198c86da70b1.jpg)
Found. I’ll make a stop in
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
You planning on building another Eiffel tower or something? 1/4x6" would do it. :pokeDave
-
Don't forget you need to hold it all down too. I used E tract when I was building a trailer, there is so much for it. Even HF has some of it now.
-
1x1 square tube cut at about a 30* angle and welded to that horizontal piece to reuse what you already have.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Back on the e tract, they have more than I thought for it now. Hooks, hangers and of course strapping. Plus you can move them around as needed.
-
You planning on building another Eiffel tower or something? 1/4x6" would do it. :pokeDave
That’s just the store. I didn’t look at what they had on the add
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I secured my Etrack to each wall stud
-
I agree with Nate, that e track is great in an enclosed trailer.
-
Did some looking for you wealthy guys E track attachments Holley molley. $19 bucks for one shovel holder?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Did some looking for you wealthy guys E track attachments Holley molley. $19 bucks for one shovel holder?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dave, I won't tell you then what that aluminum enclosed trailer cost me......... :popcorn:
-
I know what they cost. Didn’t buy one on purpose, the weight steal vs alum isn’t that much to justify almost double the cost, is was $7800 for 28 feet of trailer and 5k axles. The same in alum was $12000
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
you are correct dave, E-track is not cheap (8 10' @ $40 pieces = $320 + 8 2' pieces @ $8 = $64 total = $384) (and not counting the self tapping screws that went 2 each into each metal stud). I did spend a little up front to do this, but I was gonna be damned if I was gonna half arse it the first time. the only thing I would like to do yet is run 2 full length strips right down the middle, but the tricky part is finding each Steel cross member to screw into. I "WILL NOT" screw into just the wood on either the floor or the walls, they are/will all be screwed into the steel and the floor ones will be caulked over so as to ensure "NOT WATER LEAKAGE" will ever occure to promote wood rot.
keep in mind though that I bought a "Wells Cargo" and do plan to keep this one (unlike my other 2 that I was forced to sell).
-
I know what they cost. Didn’t buy one on purpose, the weight steal vs alum isn’t that much to justify almost double the cost, is was $7800 for 28 feet of trailer and 5k axles. The same in alum was $12000
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check out the Exiss version
-
I had one built by a guy in Las Vegas. Was just $4500 for a 20ft, with many extras. They build and add the extras on a separate sheet to save on taxes.