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Its hard to eyeball a rotor and know if its warped or not. Maybe impossible. I know a lot of guys skip having the rotors turned / resurfaced when replacing pads but it is something you really want to do, especially if a warped rotor is suspect.
So, Bobby...being the calculating trained warrior NCO that you are. Take the appropriate action, Execute!
your standard grunt level CQB is just putting rounds and rounds on scary stuff till it stops scaring you!
Quote from: BobbyB on December 21, 2014, 05:39:04 PMQuote from: Dustoff35 on December 21, 2014, 12:51:35 PMThat sounds like a warped brake rotor.Replaced the front pads and the rotors didn't seem warped. I'm going to check them again, and probably check the wheel bearings. Just checking everything at this time I suppose.Its hard to eyeball a rotor and know if its warped or not. Maybe impossible. I know a lot of guys skip having the rotors turned / resurfaced when replacing pads but it is something you really want to do, especially if a warped rotor is suspect.
Quote from: Dustoff35 on December 21, 2014, 12:51:35 PMThat sounds like a warped brake rotor.Replaced the front pads and the rotors didn't seem warped. I'm going to check them again, and probably check the wheel bearings. Just checking everything at this time I suppose.
That sounds like a warped brake rotor.
He's right Bobby. Believe it or not, even new rotors are warped straight out of the box (a couple thousandths all the way to .020"). They shouldn't be stacked on top of each other during shipping, but they are, and that alone is enough to warp them to some degree.
I have chased weird noises on xj's for years. for rear rotational noises, there have been plenty of times where the wheel bearing was indeed bad, but had no movement that one would notice during a shakedown or alignment. I've also replaced the same rear wheel bearing twice only to have it turn out to be the backing plate was slightly bent in the groove where the brake drum sits. it was pinched in one spot, impossible to see without pulling the drum off, but even then it was so dirty it didn't show itself till I was being screamed at by an old lady, and put some tire chalk on the drum to see if it was touching anywhere on the plate. 30 seconds w/a pair of pliers and the problem was solved. don't overlook stupid things that you think "couldn't possibly be the cause" Ken's got some major points; and I've seen drums that are so out of round from the factory they practically hop.My $0.02, if you're going to replace suspension components at all, get a lift kit that includes all the bushings etc and do it right once. the factory style suspension components are probably pretty close to the cost of an aftermarket lift kit, and usually of a lesser quality. if you go with the smaller lift kit, you can usually get away without the expensive transfercase drop kit, and or custom driveshafts.
Bobby, Last Sunday while driving back from church. I stopped in traffic right beside a Jeep like yours. Really KOOL looking rig. It was lifted, I'd say 4" maybe better and was riding on 33's I think. Had part of the front wheel well cut away, rears were stock. Had a roof rack, bumper stuff and lights along with other gnarly looking things. He had decent offset wheels which widened the track offsetting the negatives of lifting the COG. It was still riding on the tiny stock diffs, so judging from that jeep, the stockers were holding up to 33's, although my casual observation is not a valid estimate of the axles strength, that's for sure.Anyway, ground clearance was good, stance was right, it went down the road straight (I followed him for a while) and played in traffic just fine. I like the taller lift!
No matter what you do, I've been informed that you will most likely require a tcase drop and custom driveline for freeway travel. 4.5" BDS kits are great, and I've got a guy in MI willing to take good care of you on one should you go that route. He ran the same lift w/ 33" tires for years and even ran Moab with it, so very capable and cost effective at the same time. Unlimited Off Road in MI, talk to Kevin 1-810-936-7000, tell him I sent you. If you can't get anywhere with them, talk to Rusty's off Road products in AL. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/, Rusty or Zack.
If it has D44's you should be fine with 33's unless you have a healthy SBC in there.I have been researching Cvs for my Dmax do you think that would help, unless you know for sure it is rotors and they are cheap now!!OH, and to play Devils Advocate, where are the pics!!! ;D
more likely 8.25 chy or amc 35 rear d30 high pin front, but still w/ 33" tires he's going to be just fine with the 4.0L hopefully he has the 8.25 chy rear. To echo previous statements, any pics? shoot me a rear diff cover shot and I can ID it for you
Lucky you. 29 spline axles vs the 27 is a good thing. 8.25 vs 7.625 is another good thing. parts are a little more expensive but we have a lot of options.
I remember a post from somebody talkin about the toes of a certin older man needing to be cropped from a pic...............? Lol
They almost look painted :o
I can see where that mutt gets his big feet from!
Quote from: nmeyer414 on January 30, 2015, 09:13:27 PMI remember a post from somebody talkin about the toes of a certin older man needing to be cropped from a pic...............? LolActually, it was you and I giving him a quick verbal counseling on the dangers and irresponsibility of wearing sandals in the shop area in direct violation of the PPE rules and regulation set forth by the DOTs.
just one battle DOT lookin out for another battle DOT.
I like all of them you choseHere's one with more frontal coverage:http://eastsidecustomtruck.com/c-65726-bumpers-grilles-jeep-bumpers-jeep-xj-cherokee-bumpers.html
I don't do much posting, but I've had good luck with Hanson on my last couple of Jeep projects Bobby.http://www.hansonoffroad.com/
Speaking of boring. My boys and I just spent the night on the USS Hornet based in Alameda. A "kid" was giving us tours and I knew about 50 times more than him. He couldn't even name the planes he was standing next to.Was still a blast and they had an old CH-34 like my dad flew before the Hueys.Only banged my head once on a ship built for 5ft 9in on 6ft frame.Somehow I saw boring somewhere and posted this, oh well, another DOT post,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 8)
Ouch
So what was it??
I hope it's minor buddy!
Murphy has been busy lately
It's amazing the effect that low temps can have on things
have the tech double check the coolant reservoir; I have been on hand for 2 head gasket jobs that turned out to be simple coolant reservoir seal failures. under pressure they blast the hot coolant against the hot block, run the level down and the temp up, but often they are the only issue with these 4.0L's. Hope that's the case Bobby.
Hope it is not a head gasket
Quote from: EL TATE on February 17, 2015, 01:03:47 PMhave the tech double check the coolant reservoir; I have been on hand for 2 head gasket jobs that turned out to be simple coolant reservoir seal failures. under pressure they blast the hot coolant against the hot block, run the level down and the temp up, but often they are the only issue with these 4.0L's. Hope that's the case Bobby.Once he calls, I'll ask him. But wouldn't that just coat the passenger side with coolant? Mine was all driver side.
Guess I stepped in it there. it's been more than a few years since those events took place. Their location has left my memory banks but they were the cause of that problem at that time. Too bad that doesn't seem to be the case for you.