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those are gas numbers, not diesel rpms, but you have od.
Quote from: TexasRedNeck on December 05, 2021, 11:15:51 PMWell I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.Sent from my iPad using TapatalkNo, sorryNo more regearing.4.10's with the stock 32" tires (or something like that) is very close to 37" tires and a 4.56.32" tire/ 4.10 (Stock) 2261 @ 70mph37" tire/4.56 2174 @ 70 mphIf money were not a factor, perhaps I would consider, but at the moment, I am looking at rescuing what amounts to a failed project, so planning around a minimum cash infusion, and betting I will get a lifetime of service out of a very efficient/powerful vehicle.Lots of earlier generation (92-99) burbs have been swapped with remarkable results. Power, smoothness >20mpg figures and towing all in one package.
Well I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote from: Flyin6 on December 06, 2021, 10:42:18 AMQuote from: TexasRedNeck on December 05, 2021, 11:15:51 PMWell I would expect a regear with the Cummins back to 411 to take advantage of the torque.Sent from my iPad using TapatalkNo, sorryNo more regearing.4.10's with the stock 32" tires (or something like that) is very close to 37" tires and a 4.56.32" tire/ 4.10 (Stock) 2261 @ 70mph37" tire/4.56 2174 @ 70 mphIf money were not a factor, perhaps I would consider, but at the moment, I am looking at rescuing what amounts to a failed project, so planning around a minimum cash infusion, and betting I will get a lifetime of service out of a very efficient/powerful vehicle.Lots of earlier generation (92-99) burbs have been swapped with remarkable results. Power, smoothness >20mpg figures and towing all in one package.I concur. leave it alone with 37's.
Even the Dmax likes under 2k, or thats what the MPG, EGT and load tell me.At 70 I see about 1900.
Shawn he said " Have Circle-D take that incorrectly built converter back and have them build a triple disc low stall for the cummins".
Chief, I know the answer is no, but have you considered having a shop do it so you can just have a running rig in a couple months? Different note, are you intending on the factory gauges to work or are you going to run standalone? I would think you could easily install the 6BT and run dedicated 4l80e computer instead of reprogramming suburban computer which would result in a drivable suburban in shortish order. Maybe I’m just oversimplifying it though. Controller like this maybe?https://www.hgmelectronics.com/4l80e-transmission-controller/We Have wanted to put one on our power wagon since beginning of build…. Just never done it.
So what your saying is that you will source the parts and then stroke a check to have it done the right way?
Think only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?
If you want simple, Big D, hang a manual behind that Cummins. Then you won't need a 'puter. Just sayin'.
Quote from: JR on December 08, 2021, 09:51:53 PMThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though.
Quote from: JR on December 08, 2021, 09:51:53 PMThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?Quote from: stlaser on December 09, 2021, 12:13:55 AMQuote from: JR on December 08, 2021, 09:51:53 PMThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though. Please share!I need all the info I can find. This is going to be a big one for me.
Quote from: Flyin6 on December 09, 2021, 12:11:05 PMQuote from: JR on December 08, 2021, 09:51:53 PMThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?Quote from: stlaser on December 09, 2021, 12:13:55 AMQuote from: JR on December 08, 2021, 09:51:53 PMThink only the Ally would be the big hurdle here. Aren't there bolt in kits for the 6BT? Or is that the square body since the front is so short on the classic style.Maybe a turnkey lly/ally setup?No, diesel conversion specialists only support up to a 1999 burb with a kit. I did find a couple threads of guys doing this on 2000/2001 units though. Please share!I need all the info I can find. This is going to be a big one for me.The threads or diesel conversion specialist?
https://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/ Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.I’ll shut up now. CMSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote from: TexasRedNeck on December 09, 2021, 12:45:58 PMhttps://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/ Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.I’ll shut up now. CMSent from my iPad using TapatalkYou are correct and spot on with all your pointsHoweverThe cost of doing such a conversion is stifling, ridiculous, reallySo, although I would probably go that route should money be of no concern, it actually isSo the 6BT 12 valve makes the most sense...Or just sell the vehicle as is. But who would want a fast fuel sucking suburban?Exactly!
Quote from: Flyin6 on December 09, 2021, 04:23:53 PMQuote from: TexasRedNeck on December 09, 2021, 12:45:58 PMhttps://m.facebook.com/duraburbinc/ Still think this makes the most sense. But I also know you are dead set doing it your way. DMax swap is proven, less hacking and piecing things together and will just plain work and be able to be worked on by others in the future should it become necessary. Resale will be much higher with a OEM style swap.I’ll shut up now. CMSent from my iPad using TapatalkYou are correct and spot on with all your pointsHoweverThe cost of doing such a conversion is stifling, ridiculous, reallySo, although I would probably go that route should money be of no concern, it actually isSo the 6BT 12 valve makes the most sense...Or just sell the vehicle as is. But who would want a fast fuel sucking suburban?Exactly!i may have asked this question already, but CRS is starting to creep in...have you ever called duraburb and just had conversation with them about conversions? and if they had any info or sources for a DIY'er?
You've already spent that much,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,(fired)
Here to make my yearly post before I disappear again. Since simple seems to be the theme here I’d like to throw out one more option I haven’t seen yet. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.htmlFactory 6.0, 450hp long block $4636. With the gearing you’ve got that gets you better than factory performance. It may not be as much power or as good of mileage as you desire but as far as simple goes, this seems to be the winner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: longball on December 10, 2021, 09:44:40 AMHere to make my yearly post before I disappear again. Since simple seems to be the theme here I’d like to throw out one more option I haven’t seen yet. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.htmlFactory 6.0, 450hp long block $4636. With the gearing you’ve got that gets you better than factory performance. It may not be as much power or as good of mileage as you desire but as far as simple goes, this seems to be the winner. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf a supercharged 6.0 won't make him happy, I doubt that will longball. My recommendation would be to drive it as is, while it still runs. A 12V might give you power and mileage, but long distance trip comfort? (will it even fit around an independent front end without major work?) Not going to be happy imo.But alas, Big D still has a nice truck that's capable of towing a nice trailer... I heard there's one rotting away on a farm somewhere. Do I get a severance package?
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
With all that in mind, why not keep looking a for a Dsub or a doner to have someone do the work in the long run. Or just look for an 8.1?I have seen the LBZ for well under 10k, but normally around 20+. Dsubs for around 20k.Nothing you have done has been a bad idea, its outcomes that seem to be the challenge.
Sell the burb, cut your losses and build another with the duramax