i sure hope so. pulled the engine without pulling the front core support/fascia off. it was alittle tight and will have to finish disassembling the front to put the motor back in (easier access to 'stuff' with more room)

i was being facetious. hahah. i highly doubt that was it. using factory mounts and isolators.. just about identical to the way they came in a 96 cummins

^ this guy is bringing all the win

will hopefully have them tomorrow or tues at the latest. will get good pics once it's out. but will try to get some as soon as i get to the truck

my mom went up there to look at it while i was still in texas and when she talked to the guy, he said he was dreading calling me to tell me just bc of how hard we had worked on it and the fact that he had kids/what a crushing blow it would be to hear that.

he genuinely is a nice guy and i'm pretty sure he would come forward if it was his fault. i just don't think there was anything that anyone could have done to prevent it.

i'm traveling back from TX today. been in austin for SXSW with work.. so i haven't even seen it yet. transmission guy called and told me about it 2-3 days ago.

apparently it threw a rod. not sure if it's wrist pin or bearing end.

but i've already got a builder lined up.. so hopefully it'll get started soon. shooting for a solid, reliable, 300-350 hp truck with daily driving abilities and time tested components. only 'upgrades' it will be receiving will be 60lb valve springs, 3200/4k GSK, balanced rotating assembly and the 90hp nozzles that are supposedly in it (going to have them pop tested while it's apart). no reason this one should do anything weird. builder is a local guy who teaches diesel mechanics at a local tech/comm college that i bought some stuff off of last year.

guess that means the engine will get a new paint job.. so that's a plus. hahah

small update.




an unauthorized 2" hole appeared in the passenger side of the block.



500k mile 5.9 build to follow..

it actually wasn't to bad with a floor jack with transmission adapter and some 4x4 blocks and a short ratchet strap. just jigged it up, strapped it down and pulled it back apart. not too bad at all.

the kaiser doing something similar.. not quite to the same extreme. but def runs alittle rough under throttle. if you bump the fuel quick, it revs and then comes down.. and shuts off. i'm leaning towards lift pump as well. but need a FP gauge to confirm as well.

since saturday.. all the horizontal retaining wall and posts have been set. as well as tamping it all in with a jumping jack. been a long weekend.. but it was a much needed win for our corner (dad, brother and myself) since the tunnel has new kicking our butt since day one. hahah



the depressed/half octagon shape is for a burn/'s'mores' pitt that my mom is kinda putting on for our wedding. not only that, but it'll be a cool place to go hang out and burn stuff well after the wedding has come and gone. just kind of a neat little add-on..

those tall posts will be cut off at ground level as well..

was driving me crazy having mismatched door handle finished on the house.. so i fixed it. hahah



also, pulled the tile up in the kitchen. linoleum unnderneath, which will get scrapped up too. then hardwoods continued from the living room into the kitchen and going down the hall.

.. wait.

did you just call my door gaudy? hahah

thanks! i thought it added to the house some. now just have to fix the brass inlay in the window. hahah.

PO dented the front door up pretty good. hence the kick plate to cover some bigger ones.

he was apparently a real piece of work. a total of 5 doors were kicked in at one point or another..

and possibly on an unrelated noted (jk.. totally related) he was just sentenced to 12 years for trafficking. (of the drug variety.. not ppl)

so.. yea.

lightbar done





knocks down just enough to work

really liking the stance from the front now

ohh.. and shocks. front and rear. that's a big one. lol

did alittle detail work on the kaiser the other day

35% ceramic tint







before worklight had headlight tint applied (like the polaris)



and after



hoodlight (started out as same as rear work light color)





the lightbar will get the same window tint as the worklight and 4wheeler lights once i return.

we also set the TV cable, but later realized that the ppump injection pump throttle bracket and lever weren't set to factor spec before we started adjusting the TV cable. so.. i have to set the accel pivot stud to back of bracket where the cable comes through to 5" (currently at 5.25") which is throwing the TV cable off and not allowing me to get full travel from it/high/hard enough shift points either..

so far.. very pleased with the look of the tinted lights. when compared side by side, there is only a SLIGHT difference in intensity.. barely noticeable unless you quickly cover and uncover them back to back.

had to run to the beach to pull out a full kitchen/cabinets/granite island for a friend who is building the new set soon. so.. we got free kitchen cabinets and a slab of 4'x9' granite to do something with (in case you haven't heard.. granite is heavy) hahah

hopefully get to the lightbar and hood light (gonna red tint that) tmrw or the next day. heading to my new-to-me house tmrw to cut the grass and install a lock on the outside building door so i can begin transporting things and locking them up over there.

no no no..

it says it right there in the good book.. they all left in one ACCORD!

hahah

i knew that firewall looked familiar..

hahah

so you have a drunk friend gang constantly drops by and a witch if a sister in law that comes and spreads her opinions and condemnations like butter..? hahah

Oh I could probably drop 10 lbs or so. But then my wife will get all nervous she's not feeding me enough and over cook.

If I have calculated correctly...and the Army's numbers are correct...I can drop 300lbs just in the engine/trans/case department. That's a significant chunk. No way the roll cage will weigh 300lbs.

Un-sprung weight isn't a big deal but the modern axles are lighter, the OEM military split rims and rubber weigh 140lbs a pop...so I am upbeat this thing may actually weigh less when I am done.

you make a good argument. i feel confident you can shed some pounds. even down to aluminum rims and radiator..

with the god awedul amount of abused miles on patch.. it's amazing that you have so many trans/tcase setups with zero miles.. hahah

that it does. first things first.. will be addressing the trans leak. my suspicion is either A:coupler was machined down by chucking the outside and not inside (causing .010" wobble) and leaking past or
B: (and more likely given the amount and flow rate of leak) the coupler wasn't machines far enough down the exterior, allowing the shoulder to come forward until the trans output shaft hit the snap ring inside the coupler which could have eaten the lip of the seal.. causing massive damage to sealing surface. just have to get in there and figure it out.

As much fun as all this new technology can be...I am looking forward to the M37 no technology build. It won't have 1000hp or fancy gadgets...but it will have what I cherish most in a truck....function.

this is going to be a cool truck..

the issue now is.. a rather substantial trans fluid leak. between the trans and tcase, in what should be an empty void in the adapter.

we machined down the coupler from the output shaft is the 47rh to the input of the NP205 and the guy told us he chucked the outside of the coupler, not the interior/spline/rotational center of it and it's off by .010".. which  either worn out an already tired seal or torn/knicked it going in. either way, it's coming out of there pretty steadily..

so.. tcase has to come off and get the other end of the coupler turned down chucked on the inside and replace the 47rh output seal. what's another days worth of labor.. huh? hahah

i still need to correctly adjust the TV cable. it's shifting from 1-2 around 6-9 mph (guessing) then immediately into 3rd. like.. immediately. fairly certain it's not tight enough.. but how tight is too tight? still need to mount the OD and LU switches (they're wired, just not mounted) and then fix the leak, then test the last 2 trans switches.

if i'm thinking correctly, 1st should run to maybe 10-12 mph, then 2nd to 20ish, and 3rd to whenever he decides to hit OD (maybe 40) then LU after that.

do those 1-3 numbers sound like a good goal?

also.. definitely need tires. (not that i didn't already know that..) but the front pass tire is 'wobbling' 1/4"-5/16" (measured from a fixed point in the shop to side wall of the tire)  so yea.. hahaha