0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
So no good with running the valves, to bad.What did he say about the cam being off?
I really hope it's something simple we all have overlooked. Good thing these are easy to work on. Even pulling the head (if necessary) is only a few hour job. That barring tool would sure have been handy when I did my valves and governor springsSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you are pulling the injectors you might as well do a compression test so you can cross that off the list.
Don.... did yr fella Pin Time the pump? Dial indicator....remove delivery valve and so on? An online example...https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=X_8U7QC_hpE Norm,Thanks for stopping by, was hoping for your opinion.We used the dial indicator method. I purchased the tool kit and timed it with the dial indicator method in the DV #1 hole. We both did it so I could learn. We set the pump to .256" which equates to 16.5 degrees BTDC. Then while monitoring the dial indicator, broke loose the collet from the timing gear, then reset the engine to TDC using the pin from the pump inserted into the timing hole. Then while I was holding the barring tool underneath he torqued the pump gear to collet to 165 ft/lbs. We even cleaned the surfaces off with brake cleaner like the manual specifies.Then just to be sure, we pulled the pin, rotated the engine backward and forward then back to TDC and pinned it, then checked and came out with exactly .256", so nothing moved. I think we did it correctly.Reason I ask is because it sure sounds like the internal pump timing is hosed. I would assume he did this if he's experienced with 6bt's but it never hurts to ask when thinking on a problem such as yours. Couldn't agree more...It sounds mostly like a pump timing issue, but I do believe that is correct.Case pressure could be an issue if someone was in that pump and screwed it up. But I'd be making sure I had tipple checked the actual pumps timing, Set that, then set the engines timing. Now, Norm, he was inside that pump. But I am not sure if he did the pump mods before when the engine was running in his nephews truck or while the engine was torn down for this rebuild??? He added the 4000 RPM gov springs and a #6 fuel plate, but who knows when that happened??? You know that round screw on the corner of the AFC cover? Well to get it off the accepted method seems to be to tap a #15 torx bit onto it, thus cutting in the "Head" which you use to remove it. Well it appears to have the pattern of a torx bit having been used on it.The lack of oil to the turbo is concerning...that needs fixing asap. Not turbo...the oil line to the back of the injection pump. The one that comes out of the "T" fitting and goes north to the injection pump, then south to the vacuum pump. Not the turbo line...Pay attention son! ;-))It's possible to get the wrong gasket behind the filter plate...if ya already solved this ignore me I have been unable to commit much time to forums but thought I'd toss some ideas yr way. You did pre lube the turbo right?I think I "Tossed" some 15W-40 in there!That valve lash was very tight, begs the question regarding "professionally assembled IMHO" I think I'd not assume anything is correct at that point until checked. That's the nightmare of everyone whoever purchased an engine which was rebuilt from someone else...Was it done right. Well to that I'll say, I sure thought so when I laid out the $3200 for it. Looking at it, the build looks good. I mean it is cleaned, has prelube on everything...when we'd break torques, they would come loose close to the specified amounts. We dissembled with a torque wrench in some instances just to check. Even the valve cover bolts all broke around 20 ft/lbs.But we did find all the lashes on the valves to be a few thousands tight. One intake I thing took a quarter turn of the nut to bring into spec. That's not gross by any means. If I had to guess, I'd say intakes were in the .008" range and the exhausts around .015" Good luck man, looking forward to it's maiden drive...
First I know nothing about these motors but I know about complicating things. With that said this is a race engine for all purposes and race anything is a PIA. Would it not be wise to replace some of these speed parts with stockish parts and get the thing running as a base line? Just a thought, was going to make some comment about CL and a big date again but figured that may put you over the edge.......... So this is me being helpful! ???
How many times you been fired and banned?
Quote from: Flyin6 on December 05, 2015, 11:01:15 AMHow many times you been fired and banned?Negative need more info, are you wanting how many times you fired & banned me or are you looking for a life total? Because if we add my wife in here that's gunna take awhile to add up. Which then opens up pre wife territory & you / Tonya have nothing on your predecessors! ;D
Don.... I would check all the delivery valves for correct assembly. That's a quick easy check and costs nothing. Same with a quick look at all your injectors just to make sure nothing is amiss. I might also as you suggested do a compression test. If nothing shows up as a problem....then assuming you have triple checked any possibility of fuel supply and return issues being amiss...If it was my truck/problem I would likely end my frustrations immediately and do the following. I'd remove the front cover and check that the cam timing is spot on. Making sure the letter designated on the pump and the cam gear match. This then allows you to set it to a baseline. This is a cheap check as well...just a gasket if your careful.If at that point it doesn't start and run correctly (and unless you find something amiss it probably won't) I'd spend the $300 or so it will cost to have the pump "benched" and let someone with the right equipment adjust/check out that pump. Not being there to look/hear it run it's tough to say....but sure looking like a possible pump issue. But you can cover all your bases methodically elsewhere and narrow it down.
Metal bits and no oil?
I'm still fixated on that metal shavings comment. That's post filter right?
Ok.... hang on a sec. I may have got this wrong so if so ignore me. You are running twin electrics with a mechanical on the engine? Can those electric pumps be pulled through? If not, it's possible/likely that could be your issue regarding fuel pressure.. 10 psi is not even close to enough. You NEED 17-22psi at idle. 25-35psi @2500rpm under no load. Lack of fuel pressure could be causing all your problems. White smoke odd idling... no throttle response, these are all symptoms of low fuel pressure. I thought you had that issue resolved, I am sorry I didn't mention it again. Also the overflow valve on the p pumps is a known issue....might not hurt to check/replace that. That can also result in low pressure. They move like 1.4gpm through the return line when stuck open and can lower fuel pressure. You can't go any further trying to diagnose this issue until you fix the fuel pressure issue.
I run OEM Cummins lift pumps on all our irrigation plants...gravity fed no less. No problem making 25psi whatsoever. Hell my daily driver VE pump is making 10psi at WOT under load. That's with a 3/8 line and a OEM fuel filter. Don has to fix this issue first..without proper fuel pressure, the injection pump is not going to work.
It's not unheard of for the camshaft to be worn and the pump not work correctly. Extremely high mileage engines have been know to do that on occasion. But that would be a rare deal...I'd temporarily plumb around your fuel pumps and filters whichever way is simple/cheap and see if you develop fuel pressure. If you get a gain into respectable range of pressure...well ya then know it's not the mechanical pump. If this shows little to no gain...I'd start considering taking your pump off and having a look at it. They are basically simple and able to be rebuilt.Out of curiosity, did you increase the size of the return line over OEM>?
First thing to do is dead head a gauge right before the p pump. If the pressure is good, put it back together and put the gauge in the return line after the party pump, dead head. If the pressure is OK then the pump is returning too much. That's what I would do on a customer car. ...on my vehicle I would just gently pinch the return line off while running and see if the pressure rises. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk