2001 Excursion Alaska Overlander

[stlaser]

2001 Ford Excursion V10 Limited w/ 190k on the clock.

We went to Bozeman for a long weekend last week and brought this back home with us. I loaned it to my middle daughter a couple years ago to have something to drive after her first semester at college. She drove it for nine months and then bought herself a low mileage Ford Explorer. So that September our youngest who joined her sister at college started driving it and has for the last 18 ish months. She just bought herself a low mileage Ford Edge.

I drove this home 5 hours and it’s got a bit more wear and tear on it now and the steering isn’t as tight any longer. I was unsure what to do with it honestly. It needs paint, some steering love at some point and a couple other small things. I do still have a pile of new parts for it I had gathered prior to loaning it out. However, it’s been extremely reliable and does what we have asked of it for the last 5 or so years.

Then enter Don’s Alaska trip which has been on my bucket list for some time………

Yes, I know. You could make a meme from the photo. The other project sitting looking at the new project with jealousy.


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[stlaser]

So here’s the plan. Yes we own a fifth wheel but I refuse to tow it to Alaska and get beat to death. In bed campers are heavy, not for me. Add in the fact that the best trips wife and I have done were in my little work van with a full size mattress tossed in the back roughing it. Last minute and no real frills. The fifth wheel is luxury but at a cost.

*2005+ Superduty axles freshened up

Benefits
-coil spring front
-fits 35’s with stock oem coil springs or perhaps 37’s but I’m not a fan of the look of these on 37’s
-new wheels
-already own a custom set of new rear alcans
-much better braking
-tighter turning plus 1550 ujoint shafts
-Yukon lockouts if Tate ever releases them….
-4.88 or 5.13 gears versus 4.30 oem
-grizzly rear locker as I have one on shelf
-front locker already own a Spartan or go for an Ox cable actuated locker?
-will upgrade sway bars
-may add rear bags if needed but trying to keep it lighter so hoping not for now

*Paint & Body

-raptor line the exterior completely, (maybe a new brighter color so the old guys in the caravan can see me and not get lost?)

-bumpers front and rear with front winch (think pulling old guys out after them getting stuck in a mulch bed) this will be plate center sections and skeletal tubing wings to keep it lighter overall but still add needed protection for deer and accessories.

-roof rack & rear rack, it does have a 44 gallon fuel tank but would like extra fuel capacity and move spare tire to exterior. Our kayaks will be on the roof for trips. Possible bike racks on rear. Small propane tank mount.

-camp shower mount off upper rack, probably just use solar bags for warmer water.

*Interior

-remove all rear seats
-repair drivers seat bottom
-add / upgrade some electronics (communication, driving, cameras)
-12v chest fridge / freezer arb or dometic
-deep cycle battery and possibly roof solar
-cassette toilet for better half
-full size rv mattress from Wilderness RV which we have in fifth wheel and love it.
-under bed storage in rear
-rear cargo door storage upgrade and fold down tables
-window screen on rear side doors for ventilation
-modify rear upper window hatch to swing up farther, must for tall guys

Plan is to use this for Alaska trip then dirt bike trips to places such as Moab, KOH etc in the future. Our second camper type setup but definitely more nimble and easier to get into for off the road places.


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[Flyin6]

I'm diggin' this!

[wilsonphil]

So here’s the plan. Yes we own a fifth wheel but I refuse to tow it to Alaska and get beat to death. In bed campers are heavy, not for me. Add in the fact that the best trips wife and I have done were in my little work van with a full size mattress tossed in the back roughing it. Last minute and no real frills. The fifth wheel is luxury but at a cost.

*2005+ Superduty axles freshened up

Benefits
-coil spring front
-fits 35’s with stock oem coil springs or perhaps 37’s but I’m not a fan of the look of these on 37’s
-new wheels
-already own a custom set of new rear alcans
-much better braking
-tighter turning plus 1550 ujoint shafts
-Yukon lockouts if Tate ever releases them….
-4.88 or 5.13 gears versus 4.30 oem
-grizzly rear locker as I have one on shelf
-front locker already own a Spartan or go for an Ox cable actuated locker?
-will upgrade sway bars
-may add rear bags if needed but trying to keep it lighter so hoping not for now

*Paint & Body

-raptor line the exterior completely, (maybe a new brighter color so the old guys in the caravan can see me and not get lost?)

-bumpers front and rear with front winch (think pulling old guys out after them getting stuck in a mulch bed) this will be plate center sections and skeletal tubing wings to keep it lighter overall but still add needed protection for deer and accessories.

-roof rack & rear rack, it does have a 44 gallon fuel tank but would like extra fuel capacity and move spare tire to exterior. Our kayaks will be on the roof for trips. Possible bike racks on rear. Small propane tank mount.

-camp shower mount off upper rack, probably just use solar bags for warmer water.

*Interior

-remove all rear seats
-repair drivers seat bottom
-add / upgrade some electronics (communication, driving, cameras)
-12v chest fridge / freezer arb or dometic
-deep cycle battery and possibly roof solar
-cassette toilet for better half
-full size rv mattress from Wilderness RV which we have in fifth wheel and love it.
-under bed storage in rear
-rear cargo door storage upgrade and fold down tables
-window screen on rear side doors for ventilation
-modify rear upper window hatch to swing up farther, must for tall guys

Plan is to use this for Alaska trip then dirt bike trips to places such as Moab, KOH etc in the future. Our second camper type setup but definitely more nimble and easier to get into for off the road places.


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From my experience in RC, two spare tires for sure so that should/might drive you tire choice. 

Not sure of the MPG and tank size of your unit but from Coldfoot AK to Deadhorse AK is 250 MI and there is NOTHING in between there was an automated fuel station in Deadhorse BUT if it broken or gone then you need enough fuel to get back to Coldfoot.  Fuel in general should be planned for there are not as many fuel stations along the way.  This road is mostly gravel so DO NOT paint your truck or replace the windshield if it has a chip or crack, you will need one after the trip anyway.

Tools and and hard to get spares you might need, fresh hoses and belts, filters and fluids.  Basic recovery tools, don't know how hard core your are going or places you intend on visiting it will drive how you outfit your rig.

Got lots more let me know what other info you want to know, lots of parts stores thru CA and in AK most were pretty well stocked.

[stlaser]

All great info, I’ve been told two spares from others, bedliner will be on the exterior so no worries. It has 44 gal tank from the factory but was planning several rear sceptor 5 gallon cans. I doubt I go to the artic or that far north. I’ve seen plenty of pics and it’s desolate on north slope. I’m also not interested in paying $75 for a bus ride so I can dip my toes.

Goal is to keep the cog lower, once you go to 37’s they tend to get tall on these trucks. So I’m thinking 35’s and possibly shave the rear diff.

[stlaser]

Ok Phil, let’s dive a bit deeper on a couple items.

First the double spare tire thing. Is two really necessary? Are you cutting sidewalls? Reason I ask is I follow a you tuber and he actually lives in Alaska and drives all over. He has one spare and it’s not even close to the correct size. Granted he drives a Ford so maybe it’s a Dodge thing?  In all seriousness I carry a plug kit and compressor. What was your actual experience?

Broken windshield, carry stone chip repair kits would be good idea I assume.

Spare parts, thinking new belts, rad hoses and maybe idler. I’ll get plugs swapped again before I go (triton engine bs). I did it 40k ago but it’s been a couple years now and they loosen up and tend to build up on threads exposed in combustion chamber. Toss in a spare alternator and starter? Service fluids and carry extra. These V10 do eat some oil between changes so I do carry extra oil already.

I’d say I’m not the normal vacationer to such places. With off road racing back ground and recreational wheeling in some remote places I’m used to cobbling things together to get back home or at least to a pit for a real repair.

[Flyin6]

I want to encourage you two to share some of this general information over on the "Alaska Adventure 225 thread.

Loads of good discussion here. You have me thinking. I was going one spare/compressor/tire plug route. Try and squeeze in some extra fuel, but I already have scads of range with that sippy Cummins. Having said that, with a big draggy camper on the back my MPG's will be less.

My Wyoming shakedown run this summer will teach me much of what I will need going forward.

http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=5486.0

[Flyin6]

S: What sort of MPG do you think you'll get?
Big gasser, and draggy, I am thinking 12MPG.

Mine has a 30-something gallon tank. I get almost 17 unladen on 37's. I think for the trip I may go down to 35's, since with the addition of the 37's over stock, I dropped nearly 3 mpg's. Either that or regear to 4.10 and keep the 37's. But the 37's may well overwork the transmission...hmmm

Anyway, I can see me getting 13 MPG in my heavily weighed-down 3500 Ram.

[stlaser]

Don, prior to kids taking it to college it was 10-12 regardless if I pulled a small trailer with it or not. I’m going to 37’s on it and 5.13 gears which will be almost spot on to the tires and 4.30’s I have now. So I’ll assume 8 and may be surprised? At 8 with 44 gallon tank I’m 350 miles, if I can add 4 cans to rear rack like Phil did then that gets me to 500 miles maybe more. Obviously stop and go cuts the mileage considerably.

I’m hoping one spare tire unless Phil comes back saying he gutted sidewalls like it was his job.

[Sammconn]

I’ll add my two cents on tires.
I travel 200 miles of what I will assume is similar to the Alaska highway.

I used to carry two spares.
I was running “cheap” house brand 10 ply tires.
I was not all about 500 dollar tires.
I used two spares at times with the cheap rubber.
Twice in fact. Once was on my way for new tires.

I learned my lesson and now run Good Year duratracs.
Toyo M55’s prior, but they were somewhere between terrible and dangerous on ice.

I now carry one spare, a plug kit and good 12 volt compressor.

Economy tires and less than 1/4” - 3/8” tread are a recipe for flats.
Just what I’ve found over the last 23 years of the road I travel.

I did however cut a Toyo Open Country bead to bead one spring in some terrible road conditions. Read foot deep ruts. I suspect I found an old burried grader blade or the edge of a sharp boulder.

[stlaser]

Copy, I run Cooper tires pretty much exclusively now. Planning on 37” sst’s for the excursion. I’ve had really good luck with them on several trucks. I agree 3/8-1/4 tread and I sell them to those less fortunate (typically of Spanish heritage) who like to pay me for the worn out carcasses.

Be aware those duratracs have thin sidewalls. I gutted one in the middle of suburbia hippyland CALorado hell one summer with a glass bottle somehow.

Thanks for the insight.

[wilsonphil]

Ok Phil, let’s dive a bit deeper on a couple items.

First the double spare tire thing. Is two really necessary? Are you cutting sidewalls? Reason I ask is I follow a you tuber and he actually lives in Alaska and drives all over. He has one spare and it’s not even close to the correct size. Granted he drives a Ford so maybe it’s a Dodge thing?  In all seriousness I carry a plug kit and compressor. What was your actual experience?

Broken windshield, carry stone chip repair kits would be good idea I assume.

Spare parts, thinking new belts, rad hoses and maybe idler. I’ll get plugs swapped again before I go (triton engine bs). I did it 40k ago but it’s been a couple years now and they loosen up and tend to build up on threads exposed in combustion chamber. Toss in a spare alternator and starter? Service fluids and carry extra. These V10 do eat some oil between changes so I do carry extra oil already.

I’d say I’m not the normal vacationer to such places. With off road racing back ground and recreational wheeling in some remote places I’m used to cobbling things together to get back home or at least to a pit for a real repair.

The two spares rule kinda only applies if you are going off onto the great wild, I actually hit a valve stem so the best plug kit will not help in that sitiuation also sliced a sidwall but the tire still held air.  If you are with a group its not really required because someone can in theroy go and get a tire.  I was solo(me and wife) so didnt want to risk it and I made sure my wife could change a tire by herself in the event I was hurt.  We were way out a few times so self recovery was the only option.  A good plug kit and aircompressor should be fine. 

I run Duratraks I have had good luck with them unless they are geting up in year/milage.  The newest version of the Duratraks have a redsigned sidewall.  I have never bought cheap tires, unlees its trailer tiles and last I checked they were all made in China.

Windshields just fix it when you get home.

All of you will do well on a trip like this as long as your rigs are mechanicaly sound but with modern trucks it can go sidways real fast.

If you are not going crazy boondocking and not going North above the Artic circle your rig just being solid you should not have to do anything exotic.  Fresh fluids, belts, tensioner, hoses and Ujoints wheel bearings all good you should not have issues.

When I built the RC my requirement was to still be able to go into any NAPA and get what I need to get moving again.  I was able to do that on every trip.

Fuel needs to be thought thru, you are correct I carried 4ea specture jugs, 2ea were water and 2ea were fuel BUT my real bumper held 10+gallons internally so I had 55Gal and I based 10mpg It got better going down the road 13mpg but off road 10mpg was the norm.

Pulling a trailer KILLS everything if you go highway speeds and there is weight and the trailer sticks up in the air.  Even my 06Ram pulling a flatbed car trailer with a 6-7K lbs would kill the mpg 18 down to some cases 10-11 mpg @ 75mph, trailers are boat anchors.