REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
PERSONAL READINESS => Hide Site => Topic started by: Flyin6 on February 20, 2017, 05:23:18 PM
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I felt like this would be a good point to start a part 4 to the improving Hide Site build out.
When just starting the idea was to just nail down someplace to "Go-To," in the event the need arose. I wanted something that was within a few hours drive, but still very remote. I found that location in a very low populated county in Kentucky. There are no 4 lanes anywhere near by and only one primary road in the whole county. The rest of it isjust a network of switchbacks and country roads in all different states of repair.
The land I purchased is nothing that ever showed up formally for sale, and I purchased it for cash and closed in a day. There was practically no footprint to the passing of the deed of the 91 acres.
So that was what I would call Phase 1. That and some minimal improvements to the place with the idea being that it was little more than a rally point, or if I carried in camping gear, it would sustain us in secrecy.
Phase 2 had me improving the dirt road into the property and clearing off some of the mess. The site was a farm as we know that was not used for some three and a half decades. Cedar trees had all but taken over what should have been nearly forty acres of fields. Junk was everywhere and although there was a single wire overhead on a pole with a light, there was nothing else.. Phase 2 concluded with my towing in a camper and powering it with a generator.
Phase 3 began with a couple years work clearing hundreds (Thousands?) of trees, and bush hogging the fields several times to gid them of the encroaching trees. That accomplished, the place really started to open up and could support crops or livestock with the addition of some fencing. I added the "Shed" during this Phase which brought me the ability to do more work and repair things that always seemed to be breaking.
I relocated the camper to a ledge I carved out of the hillside with the now functioning track loader. I bedded that in laying gravel and improving the site weekly. Although powered still by a noisy generator, it was becoming livable. I continued to clear the fields making all sorts of discoveries to include a 1830's Amish built well that still had six to eight feet of water, although the quality of said water is questionable still.
Another big step forward happened with the addition of actual grid supplied electricity. Now the plan remains to go off the grid and live normally, for now the power company supplies the electricity to run all sorts of tools. Speaking of which, the shed has improved and improved, now having heat, pressurized air, saws, and a more complete compliment of tools.
With more and more time being spent down there, I was going through the camper's 40 gallons of water every few days, so that became my next focus. As with everything, I am not going all the way to the final solution, however building out in steps. These smaller steps are cheaper, digestible, and quickly add to the livability and capacity of the place.
Late in part 3, I was constructing the new water tanks and enclosure structure which will house and keep 660 gallons of the wet stuff from freezing during the cold months. I am using solar power, passive type to accomplish that chore.
We shall begin part 4 and Phase 4 with that project, so here goes:
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I tore down the structure and loaded it onto the trailer. I picked a beautiful weekend to reassemble it on site. THe weather man predicted warm and sunny with 60's-70's...Perfect!
But weather men being what they are, some when throwing the tea leaves and whale bones they use to guess at the weather, pitch them in a haphazard manner and we get a bunch of junk for weather. In my case, this weekend, it was rain and mud...Lots of it!
So I started day 1 of a three day run mounting things in the shed. I picked up this HF fire extinguisher for the workshop
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Northern Tool had this rack of bins on sale for like $15 so I scored one and mounted that sucker up
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...Yes a handful of life-savers
This is a survival site after all!
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And a handy spot for the bottle of glue
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Added this rack of spade type wood drill bits
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Added a second grease gun...Dog carried off the first one. Haven't given up on it just yet, I figure when I find it along with the red handled channel locks the beast carried off too, I'll be back up to running speed
An extra piece of PVC with cardboard and a rag stuffed inside makes for a good holder
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Picked up this oscillating saw for the Christmas
I'll cut some trees down with it later!
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I also hung up 50 more feet of Goodyear air hose
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The start of assembling the water tank structure
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The place is always growing
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Two sides up, tanks moved some
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Lots of parts and materials accumulating
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Tanks repositioned
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Front attached
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Side on and working on leveling the thing
I only blocked it in for now. I will work on leveling it once again after I get another load of gravel on site
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Both roof panels installed. Local security courtesy of Scout
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Doors going on, and guess what??
They fit!!!!!!!!!
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Trim is going on. The front and rear roof panels secure the whole thing
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Getting taped up for painting of the trim pieces
I think I got some of the paint onto the bare wood, along with the doors and the sides
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Painting complete, although I ran out of 1 X 8 and could not trim the back two corners yet
I tied the roof panels together on the top side with a section of the same poly carbonate roof stuff. I screwed that mohekin down and called it G-T-G for now
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I ran Sarge, and both tractors to keep the fluids circulated, batteries charged, and seals exercised
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That thing is a tree murdin' tank!^^^^^^
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The place looks good for later winter. I even say some grass coming up from what I planted last fall
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The boys dumped a couple hundred 5.56, .22, and 20 gage rounds into the range berm over the three days
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And I'd like to plug this handy little step from HF. Costs $19.99 and is pretty sturdy and well built. Definitely worth the money
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Lookin' good, Big D!
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Lookin' good, Big D!
Danke!
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I hung up some more peg board in anticipation for mucho-mo toolage
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Looks great Don. The farm as well as the water shed.
Little stools and steps can be worth their weight in gold some times!
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HEY HOVER JUNKIE, HAVE YOU FORGOTTEN ABOUT THE AIR TOOLS AND HOSES YOU LEFT AT SOUTHEASTERN? RICHARD STILL HAS THEM SET ASIDE FOR YOU TO PICK UP, LOL
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HEY HOVER JUNKIE, HAVE YOU FORGOTTEN ABOUT THE AIR TOOLS AND HOSES YOU LEFT AT SOUTHEASTERN? RICHARD STILL HAS THEM SET ASIDE FOR YOU TO PICK UP, LOL
Larry, holy smokes, I did forget
BTW, Sarge is running great!
Almost stopped by on Firday. I was in your A.O. and planned to stop in for a chat, but was running late for some appointment or something.
I'll stop in...Any cool excavators for sale cheap?
Case 160...Case 160...Case 160...
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Looks great Don. The farm as well as the water shed.
Little stools and steps can be worth their weight in gold some times!
Stacks of rocks forming little "Wait-ah-minute" check dams work too.
When my rich uncle dies in the poor house and I buy an excavator, that place is going to look like some terraced hillside in Thailand!
Can you say "pondage?"
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Got the parts ordered.
There are some specialty fittings going from the strange IPC thread which really just makes for a compression fitting seal and adapts that to 2" NPT male that I can work with
The fans, two each, I selected are blower fans designed to be used in maritime applications. They are commonly used to ventilate bilges or bath rooms.
Should have all this week and maybe installed by the weekend.
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Just when I was getting board and not DOT'in anything up, you start a new thread :beercheers:
Those fans should move air well, but check on their cycle life. Not sure they are designed for hours of running unless they are brushless.
If the gen is loud just build a box for it and add a second muffler.
Is the new dog camera shy??
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First up, I repaired the Shur-Flo 55psi water pump installing a new plastic housing which replaces the damaged fittings
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It was just a simple R&R and I once more had a good water pump.
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The marine application bilge fans came in today
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So, I got right to work, building in a suitable mount for these fans to the backside of the solar heat collectors
I built a base out of 3/4" plywood to give the thing a solid fitting
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Cutting the hole out allowed the fan to fit directly into the elbow structure that will divert the ambient air into the collector to be heated and shoved out the top
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The sides are angled to turn the air into the plenum on the other side of the OSB
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Closing all that off yielded a robust housing that will be glued and screwed to the backside of the collector after I cut an access hole through the back panel
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It will mount approximately here:
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Went down to the hide for a couple days
Those fittings I scored did not fit.
I have to figure out which type of fitting does before I continue down this road!
I didn't go down there to work this time, but just to sit and pray.
Ever do that? I'd recommend you do. Just go somewhere for no certain peroid of time and be still before the Lord and see what if anything he says. I needed to shed off some of Old Don (Well all of me is "Old-Don" these days), things that do not serve God's purpose.
It was a good stay and he showed up like I was hoping while I was reading scripture in a book a friend gave me.
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I did spend some time wandering about accessing things. The recent rains has filled both ponds to nearly over flowing
Neither one is anything to brag about, just starting on those projects. Both will be enlarged, cleaned out, and cleared of trees
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I measured the well and was stunned to discover it has 16 more feet of water in it than last fall! Only 30 feet down to the water yesterday, whereas it was 46 feet down to the water last summer/autumn
I am always looking to buy a sawmill, so I thought I ought to take a look at those old logs stacked up in my falling down barn
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The shortest logs run about 8 feet long, the sides of the corral are around 16 feet and the long ones a bit over 24 feet
Most seem to be 13"-15" in diameter, and all are eastern hardwoods. I can see Oak, Ash, Hickory, Walnut, Elm, I think a Cherry log or two and a couple I cannot yet identify
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No telling how many thousands of board feet all that will someday saw up into, but I think I know a place for it!
There are some really cool ax hewn squared up beams as well. One must be 30 + feet long and really big. Part of it is rotten though and will have to get cut out, but that thing just might make a bunch of cool mantles dressing up some fireplaces
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There is a bunch of barn wood siding remaining as well
I think it has come time to tear that barn down and sort and stack the wood.
I'll incorporate the usable beams into the expanding "Shed" project and save some for the new, yet to come house
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Scout took a cruise in the freezing water in the new sink-hole pond
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Then for no particular reason, I just started scribbling some of my favorite scriptures all over everything!
I know, kind of strange, but it felt right to me!
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^^^ Guess I just wanted to be reminded of those everytime I looked around ^^^
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I hauled a load of water down and started filling the new tanks. That little pe-pe pump took like, hours and got em this far. At this rate it will take three trips to get the new tanks topped up
I'll show up with a much better pump next time and a 1" or larger hose to get the job done mo-quicklier!
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That old barn has some seriously high value timber in it!
Do be careful once you begin the disassembly.
I recon you should not use Sarge, other than to hold and lower the pieces.
Once you have a mill there will be all kinds of interesting old boards of various species.
You're going to need a "wood shed" of sorts to protect it all.
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In keeping with my desire to improve the conditions down there with each visit, I placed the new cofee brewer into operation.
I also mounted up the TV finally, well actually finalized that mounting. I plan to utilize the "Smart" aspect of this set to couple with my I-Pad and the AT&T streaming program to be able to settle in on some Bengals or Reds games and catch a flick or two in the future.
Mind you, this camper will become the "Guest-Quarters" once the cabin upstairs gets livable, so someone is going to have the essentials for a restful stay
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That old barn has some seriously high value timber in it!
Do be careful once you begin the disassembly.
I recon you should not use Sarge, other than to hold and lower the pieces.
Once you have a mill there will be all kinds of interesting old boards of various species.
You're going to need a "wood shed" of sorts to protect it all.
Well, depending on whether or not I hatch this latest plan, I'll first buy a decent mill. Likely a Timberking 1220 or a Norwood LM-29 or LM-36. I know where I plan to set it and if the bridge holds and the creek doesn't rise, I'll erect a building around it using less than choice boards. Just sink Cedar poles into the earth and do a lap-board siding with the front open.
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The area where I removed all those trees near the well and "worked" until it was mostly without bumps and holes is coming in nicely. Lots of grass everywhere from the KY-31 Fescue seeding of late fall. You see, stuff does grow during the winter!
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All those roots sticking up will be history after the first bush-hogging.
The other late winter views are not so bad in a country-boy (Hillbilly) sort of way!
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Did you ever figure out how deep that well is total? So far we've confirmed static water height at that elevation is 30-46' it appears......
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and did you test said well water?
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Fall time is best for grass seed.
I don't know why, but even up here it seems to take better.
I've done both at the house, and fall was best, so that's when I seeded at the cabin.
The grass looks real good Don.
Everything stayed fairly 'cleaned up' too.
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Since those tanks are on the ground couldn't you just syphon fill them?
Even if you do use some of that wood you have goldmine there.
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Did you ever figure out how deep that well is total? So far we've confirmed static water height at that elevation is 30-46' it appears......
Total well depth is 52 feet!!!!!!!!
Yea, a hand dug hole over 50 feet...Quite the accomplishment
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and did you test said well water?
In a word, No
Collected the water sample...Dropped the jar...
I'll get another
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Fall time is best for grass seed.
I don't know why, but even up here it seems to take better.
I've done both at the house, and fall was best, so that's when I seeded at the cabin.
The grass looks real good Don.
Everything stayed fairly 'cleaned up' too.
Copy that Sam
THose piles of brush would have been gone, but although there is rain, the county is under a burn ban. The clutter dries quickly although the soil remains mushy. Plus the march winds have started early. Have a feeling that burning will have to wait until April
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Word on fescue- not worth a diddle for wildlife. OK for cattle, but wild prairie is way better nutrition wise for all critters! Round up those feral cattle and have TRN drag that smoker north for some "Q"!
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So in addition to the water testing I would run another test just for the heck of it. Pump the well down (if possible, maybe this summer when it's at it's lowest) then time how long it takes to refill. The diameter x the depth (say roughly 6' worth in dead of summer) should give you volume. Just to see what kind of water source you have here......
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Those daffodils; volunteers or you tryin' to beautify the place for the missus?
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Don before buying a full on sawmill you might try one of the chainsaw mounted ones. Granted you lose more wood to kerf than with a bandsaw mill but its an easier/faster way to get started on milling some stuff. Just a thought.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_logging+saw-milling-accessories+chainsaw-saw-mills
Things are looking really good!
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Don before buying a full on sawmill you might try one of the chainsaw mounted ones. Granted you lose more wood to kerf than with a bandsaw mill but its an easier/faster way to get started on milling some stuff. Just a thought.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_logging+saw-milling-accessories+chainsaw-saw-mills
Things are looking really good!
I don't like them very much
I have enough material just in that barn to pay for a sawmill, so that is the direction I will go, if/when I go that direction
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Those daffodils; volunteers or you tryin' to beautify the place for the missus?
Volunteers!
And hundreds of Iris (white/purple) as well
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Word on fescue- not worth a diddle for wildlife. OK for cattle, but wild prairie is way better nutrition wise for all critters! Round up those feral cattle and have TRN drag that smoker north for some "Q"!
Copy that...Didn't know.
But that spot is probably where I might stick a barn, so really doesn't matter
Up near the buildings I live some time, so mowed KY #31 is the way to go. Remember KY people do not wear shoes unless we are expecting company!
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Or teeth, then only on occasion.....
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Word on fescue- not worth a diddle for wildlife. OK for cattle, but wild prairie is way better nutrition wise for all critters! Round up those feral cattle and have TRN drag that smoker north for some "Q"!
Copy that...Didn't know.
But that spot is probably where I might stick a barn, so really doesn't matter
Up near the buildings I live some time, so mowed KY #31 is the way to go. Remember KY people do not wear shoes unless we are expecting company!
Easy idea for you to look into: Fire......Section off an area of unmolested grass on the place and instead of mowing it early, soon as you get a good burn day, light it up! Dormant seeds will sprout and grow and multiply! You'd be surprised how much "seed bank" might be on that place. Burn it again within the year, and the following will give you a real good indication on what's possible with a controlled/prescribed burn. Local extension office could probably give you a good plan to follow.
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So in addition to the water testing I would run another test just for the heck of it. Pump the well down (if possible, maybe this summer when it's at it's lowest) then time how long it takes to refill. The diameter x the depth (say roughly 6' worth in dead of summer) should give you volume. Just to see what kind of water source you have here......
I was just mentioning how much water filled in there, I was amazed. Figure what, 50 gallons for every three feet as a static number. So there is what, 22 feet of water in there right now, so with a 36" well I make that to be 1164 gallons, did I do that right?
pie (R)2 (Pie X radius squared)
3.14 X 18 X 18 = 1017.36 cubic inches per inch
X 12 = 12208 cu in/ft
/1728 (Cu in per cu ft) = 7.06 cu ft
X 22 feet depth = 155.3 cu ft
A cubic foot contains approximately 7.5 gallons
155.3 X 7.5 = 1164 gallons of water in there right now
Summer there would be: an observed low of 315 gallons
So without knowing the capacity to replenish the stuff I have a variance of approximately 850 gallons. That's a huge variance. Suggests I need to pump waters during the spring time into BO (Big ole) tanks and keep it there until I's be needin' it.
Of course, that's just the well waters. There is a lot of rain waters happening all summer long, so all in all I should be fine
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Or teeth, then only on occasion.....
Well, yea, those too! (Two! ;-)
Reminds me this of this thing one of my pilots, a rugby player used to say, "Which teeth do you need to floss?" Answer: Only the ones you wanted to keep!
Irony in all that is that on any given weekend he was subject to lose a tooth or collect a black eye, or show up with his arm in a sling or leg in a cast. I think his T-Shirt read: "Rugby Players eat their dead"
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I finally figured out what I needed to order to finish the collector electronics.
I picked up a couple of thermostatic switches, called "Scan-Disks"
These little buzzards will mount to the backside of the collector, measuring interior temperature, and switch the fan on at I think 105 degrees and off at 85F.
Then i picked up a bunch of digital thermometers, one for the water tank, one for the interior space of the water tank enclosure, one for the collector output, another for the camper underside temp, and another for ambient.
I should have everything completed and protected against freez-up just in time for spring! I look forward to a spring/summer free of frozen pipes!
Solid plan right there^^^
I also picked up a PEX crimping tool and a bunch of fittings/pipe to complete the water manifold and more PVC to complete the tank filling, and rain collection manifold.
I'm slow, but at least I do poor work!
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Good, fast & cheap, pick two.
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I have tracking numbers!
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Scan discs and thermometers are in. I'll pick up two relays and I should be ready to wire these things up.
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Back to the solar heat collectors, Here is the intake down low with the fans mounted
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I picked up a four pack of thermometers that show the "In" temp for the thermometer location and the "Out" for the temp probe at the end of a 4 foot wire
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And here is the scan disc temp switch. The ones I chose are adjustable allowing me to turn the fan on when the temp reaches, say 100 degrees and off when it has lowered to say, 80F
I mounted it on top in it's own dedicated hole
The top received 5ea. 2" holes from which to expel the solar heated air
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The remainder of the electronics include a relay which will be controlled by the scan disc and switch the fan motors on and off
The left collector has a hot bus bar
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A simple split block of wood holds the temp probe wire securely, however allows for some movement to allow me to fine tune its final placement
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Just placing the probe into the collector out of the light caused this two degree split in temp readings
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The wood on the building latch support moved a bit, so I had to trim some away with my super sharp axe
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Then I started on the lower water manifold which will connect both of these tanks
The correct fitting was a cam-lock design which locked on and fit perfectly
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Next a 2" adapter to NPT was tightened onto the nipple
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The left side gets a "T" with an outlet for draining with a valve and the other connection to connect with the opposite tank
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The opposite tank elbows 90 degrees toward the existing T
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And that gets another "T" which is reduced to 1/2" NPT to transition to the PEX tubing which connects to the pump panel
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Without the PEX fittings (Left them home 8-( ) I could go no further
So I moved onto the fill pipe assembly
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With a few measurements and cuts, the fill pipe was completed and plumbed into the tanks
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At the far end (Closest to the camper) I fitted a drain spout connection fixture
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Which effectively added a set of horns to the buildings appearance
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The bit of space in the visible opening is the approximate location of the collector outlet holes
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The Pex is the way to go. I decided to dive in deeper and picked up some copper crush rings and a set of crimpers to make the connection leakproof
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The pliers crush and shrink the copper ring just enough to firmly fasten the PEX tubing onto the barbed fittings
You can see in the last photo the sleeve was reduced in size somewhat
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That crimper was the first thing hung onto the pegboard on the door I installed a couple weeks ago
The blue handled fence wire pliers are the ones I dug up after cleaning and painting
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I mounted up a set of 1/2" deep and shallow SAE sockets, a set of SAE 3/8 drive deep well sockets, and finally a set of metric deep well 3/8"
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We also managed to haul down one of our bikes so the pre rangers can get about more briskly
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In the meantime the kiddies played and Scout kept working on that deer leg
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Rule of work: You have to work on something just to be able to work.
This sort of goes along with another work rule which states: Work begat work.
So I had to remove and fix the tractor tire again just to be able to use the tractor to work
It had a couple of leaks and still has this nasty gash in the sidewall
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But once that was done, I used the tractor to pick up and relocate the new grapple bucket
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The tractor has wintered outside for the last time I am hoping. With the sawmill, I'll create a covered parking spot for it and the implements over the summer (I hope)
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In this picture, the tractor bucket represents the opening to the saw mill. The structure covering it will be built around the sawmill arranged perpendicular to the bucket with storage space for milled lumber. On the back side is where I will likely create space for tractor parking
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This is one of two piles of cedar logs awaiting milling
And an auxiliary pile of extra long logs I'll keep for special purposes like the second floor deck for the shed
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Back to the water tank building. The water faucet gets installed here
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And a new 100 foot premium vinyl contractor water hose
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I finally got the plumbing completed inside the structure, but not hooked up to the trailer just yet. I want to do some performance testing first
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Then I installed two switches. Although these look like 110VAC, they are actually switching 12VDC current. Everything is grounded, with a final ground wire connecting the switches to the tank steel cages yet to be installed
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I ran a 14-2 wire from the 12 volt camper battery back and through flexible conduit to the water containment building
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With the manifold connection and the tank valves open the tanks cross leveled pretty quickly
I ran a drain line outside just in case I ever need to vent some H20
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With everything connected I flipped the switch and just like that the pump started, and I found my first leak!
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With the daylight waning, it was time to pack this circus up and head to home station. First I chose two cedar logs and cut them down to an eight foot length. These will be the test pieces for the new mill as I dial it in this coming week
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On the drive home, yet another LED headlight burned out!
This is amazing...This cheap chinese junk doesn't last anytime at all. What 3-6 months tops? I don't even remember how many bulbs have been in and out of those headlights...Easily 5 sets now.
This latest set, Bowvine or something like that were the absolute worse. With this burnout, that makes four failures in the past 12 months!
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Nice work but don't get me started on headlights !!!
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On the drive home, yet another LED headlight burned out!
This is amazing...This cheap chinese junk doesn't last anytime at all. What 3-6 months tops? I don't even remember how many bulbs have been in and out of those headlights...Easily 5 sets now.
This latest set, Bowvine or something like that were the absolute worse. With this burnout, that makes four failures in the past 12 months!
Time to retrofit some projector lights and run HID lighting the way they were designed. My last set of hid lights are well past two years and I expect much more. You both need to find the light so to speak!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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On the drive home, yet another LED headlight burned out!
This is amazing...This cheap chinese junk doesn't last anytime at all. What 3-6 months tops? I don't even remember how many bulbs have been in and out of those headlights...Easily 5 sets now.
This latest set, Bowvine or something like that were the absolute worse. With this burnout, that makes four failures in the past 12 months!
Buy yourself a set of Moromoto HID's & be done.
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On the drive home, yet another LED headlight burned out!
This is amazing...This cheap chinese junk doesn't last anytime at all. What 3-6 months tops? I don't even remember how many bulbs have been in and out of those headlights...Easily 5 sets now.
This latest set, Bowvine or something like that were the absolute worse. With this burnout, that makes four failures in the past 12 months!
Buy yourself a set of Moromoto HID's & be done.
This is what I have in my 4Runner, bought them from the main importer that is in Atlanta, the retrofit source. They stand behind their product. Mine was out of warranty when it was all replaced last august, gave me a deep discount on an entirely new setup. I believe the warranty is 3 years and they try to help you figure out the problem but will replace any or all parts if needed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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On the drive home, yet another LED headlight burned out!
This is amazing...This cheap chinese junk doesn't last anytime at all. What 3-6 months tops? I don't even remember how many bulbs have been in and out of those headlights...Easily 5 sets now.
This latest set, Bowvine or something like that were the absolute worse. With this burnout, that makes four failures in the past 12 months!
Buy yourself a set of Moromoto HID's & be done.
I'm going back to Halogen
These gee-whiz bulbs have left me wanting so many times, I can't declare that they are reliable
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You'll be disappointed for sure
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Started the day off with a fresh oil change for the 4720
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Decal check: GTG
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I had a new set of hydraulic lines made up for the new grapple bucket. The ones I took off were new, so I had them put the correct end on the one sample line I took them, and replace the Skid Steer style flat fitting with the correctly sized quick disconnect.
The large fat fitting is not used on tractors
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I had those bolted on in a giffy-quick
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Then I pushed the tractor into that monstrous grapple bucket, picked it up, threw in the lower two pins and connected the hydraulics
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Cudakidd (Mikey) said to put a match to the old piles of cuttings, so I did!
And with that grapple grabbing big chunks of debris I had two fields cleaned up in less than a couple hours. I just sortied to/from that one burn pile, hauling four other piles in to feed the flames
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Next up, Since I had used my Stihl pole saw to trim up some logs, I broke it down and found a place overhead to store it
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Shed is getting crowded with all the necessary toolage one needs to service all the junk, which one needs to make a mess of one's property.
And knowing Don's third rule of tools, "Tools begat Tools" I am constantly adding in stuff. But, know what? Everything is getting used down there. These T-handles were a sale item at Northern...
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Next project was to connect the water shed to the street water hookup of the camper and complete that mission.
I love this PEX stuff. FOrget about the old technology, this stuff is all you ever need to know about!
I spliced in a "T" here to supply the outside hose
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And made the connection finally
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Now, that is somewhat temporary. I want to improve all that before winter comes, encasing the line inside insulation and maybe including a "Hot wire" to keep the water in a liquid state. But for now, this will get the job done.
With that hooked up, I switched on the pump and it moved some water, since a small leak developed at the camper hookup, but the pump just stayed running.
That is not supposed to be what it does. It is a pressure on demand pump, only running when pressure dips below 55psi.
So there is something not right here. It should have kept the pressure up, than just shut off, but it isn't doing it. I am seeing pretty good flow at the faucet and shower. In fact I had to shower after work.
I walked into the overhead in that little water shed and broke open my skull covering. I bled like a stuck pig for awhile, and looked like a walking dead character for the rest of the day. Since we were hitting a restaurant on the way home, A shower was required. So the water flowed as good or maybe better than before, so I just don't get it why it just runs on...
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Well, I still had work to do, so I got on it. Next, I replaced that temporary hose reel with a real one. I didn't get any pics of it after installation, but I did mount it all up after removing the old temporary 2 X 4 thing
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It had rained two days ago and in the mud less than 50 feet from the camper I saw these:
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After working all the trash heaps, the fields are cleaning up nicely. That grapple is at least twice better than just a 4-1 bucket
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How long do you figure it will take you to use the water supply you have on hand now Don?
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Still have that pink going on, but that will get covered in time.
All in all, the place is coming right along
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How long do you figure it will take you to use the water supply you have on hand now Don?
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If you are asking how long will it last?
I would fill the 40 gallon tank in the camper and run through that in two days. The new capacity is around 650 gallons, and soon, it will be getting an assist from rain water runoff.
But I was conserving before and now, I will be a bit more liberal and I will be doing mortar and concrete work starting almost immediately, so hard to say.
But, I will be adding capacity with a tank at the well, and another semi-underground cistern style tank in the not too distant future. Frankly, water is the thing you need the most of. I would feel OK with around 20K in the ground somewhere, or in multiple locations with backup from the well.
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Waking dead character?
Maybe Negan? Got Lucille?
Liking the grapple bucket. May have to put that on my list.
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No equipment carnage? Getting better...... :likebutton:
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Waking dead character?
Maybe Negan? Got Lucille?
Liking the grapple bucket. May have to put that on my list.
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After using it for the day, I can say it is a tad bit too big. I have a 72" and a 66HP tractor. A 60" would have about right, but I use a 72" 4-1 bucket so I thought it would be the right size. The grapples are way heavier than a 4-1, so I have reached hydraulic stall quicker than I suspected.
For a 50-60 ish HP tractor, I think a 60". Less than a 45ish hp tractor and stay with a 48"
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No equipment carnage? Getting better...... :likebutton:
Well the thing got scorched and the wire ties got melted, but that hardly qualifies
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Drill some holes in the teeth for weight reduction, should be able to cut the weight down a bunch
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Waking dead character?
Maybe Negan? Got Lucille?
Liking the grapple bucket. May have to put that on my list.
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After using it for the day, I can say it is a tad bit too big. I have a 72" and a 66HP tractor. A 60" would have about right, but I use a 72" 4-1 bucket so I thought it would be the right size. The grapples are way heavier than a 4-1, so I have reached hydraulic stall quicker than I suspected.
For a 50-60 ish HP tractor, I think a 60". Less than a 45ish hp tractor and stay with a 48"
Time to upgrade another tractor..... :popcorn:
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I want the next thing I purchase down there with an engine to have steel tracks and a big claw looking arm hanging off the front!
I think the Case 160 is about the perfect size
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Waking dead character?
Maybe Negan? Got Lucille?
Liking the grapple bucket. May have to put that on my list.
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After using it for the day, I can say it is a tad bit too big. I have a 72" and a 66HP tractor. A 60" would have about right, but I use a 72" 4-1 bucket so I thought it would be the right size. The grapples are way heavier than a 4-1, so I have reached hydraulic stall quicker than I suspected.
For a 50-60 ish HP tractor, I think a 60". Less than a 45ish hp tractor and stay with a 48"
Good advice. Piluts know about hydraulics for sure.
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Waking dead character?
Maybe Negan? Got Lucille?
Liking the grapple bucket. May have to put that on my list.
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After using it for the day, I can say it is a tad bit too big. I have a 72" and a 66HP tractor. A 60" would have about right, but I use a 72" 4-1 bucket so I thought it would be the right size. The grapples are way heavier than a 4-1, so I have reached hydraulic stall quicker than I suspected.
For a 50-60 ish HP tractor, I think a 60". Less than a 45ish hp tractor and stay with a 48"
Good advice. Piluts know about hydraulics for sure.
We know more about what happens when they suddenly stop working...Yikes!!!!!!!!
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Here's the area where the saw mill will soon sit:
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From now on, I'll be building primarily with salvaged, recycled, or home made materials. Looking at this place as some big ongoing experiment, I want to constantly push the bounds as to what one can do with as little as possible.
The posts going in the ground just came out of the ground near here a year ago:
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My brother inlaw is stripping the bark off the posts with that cool tool that gets bolted to a modified chainsaw guide. It does a massively quick job of stripping away the bark and pulpy wood to get the post down to the good stuff
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With the posts in hand and the locations of the post holes laid out, it was time to drill some holes
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The process was simple, but did require some heavy lifting. The post hole digger kept finding rocks which had to be hand dug before pressing forward. I went for an average hole depth of around 24" give or take. With the hole cleaned of loose dirt, I'd pour in some water followed by half a bag of crete, then set the post. A bit more water, then another bag of crete, more water, then finish off with bag number three. This concrete mixture is made to pour into the hole dry around a post, then add water to the top. This concrete sets up fast. Like as in five minutes to 10 minutes!
I mean Hard concrete in 10 minutes!!
Who invented this stuff anyway???
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First pic is one day old concrete.
Second is the dry stuff with a bit of water having just been poured on it.
Third Pix is about 10 minutes later. The post is completely rigid in this pic. No way could you budge it at all!
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It continues to grow
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...This work is hard on the appendages.
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Posts all in.
The stakes either side of the posts outline the width of the structure
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From this point I leveled two 6X6X20 PT pine beams on either side of the uprights, and marked the poles for cutting
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Then cut the posts off, using the 6X6 as a guide for the saw
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I attached 2X4 and 2X6 cross beams to opposing posts to allow me to adjust for the final width and fit of the mill tracks
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Everyone played a bit along with all the work that was getting done
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While Mr. C and I were working on the saw mill base, the kids were working on the barn. The mission for them is to tear the thing down, saving as much wood as possible. They got one wall and part of another done
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Next step is to bring down the sawmill tracks and mount them to the rails, then fasten the rails to the cross braces
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I really like it down there this time of year when things are blossoming. The woods are filled with Red Bud trees
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Sure looks nice. Makes me want land with trees again. Nice work on the mill base.
Are you going to try to construct a mill shelter first thing?
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Sure looks nice. Makes me want land with trees again. Nice work on the mill base.
Are you going to try to construct a mill shelter first thing?
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That building is not a critical structure. I figure there will be a learning curve with regards to the new saw. Couple that with the fact that I want to get a roof overhead that expensive saw, and that's the reason for the building
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That first pic of the old barn looks like it belongs in a calendar!
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Looking good down there Don! Why aren't the boys out there Turkey Hunting? They should be hard to miss given the size of those tracks!
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That's some quick movement Don. Nice job! I think that cement was a military invention to quickly repair runways that had been bombed and like a lot of things make their way to civilian use.
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Looking good down there Don! Why aren't the boys out there Turkey Hunting? They should be hard to miss given the size of those tracks!
Mike, they wanted to!
Friday morning there was a flock around the pond. Then this giant hen just down the hill where we were shooting. Little Pre-Ranger asks me if he can go shoot it. Knowing that 1. he would never get within a hundred meters of it. But in the off chance that he actually connected the dots, I'd have been stuck pulling feathers all day in lieu of building the sawmill base
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That's some quick movement Don. Nice job! I think that cement was a military invention to quickly repair runways that had been bombed and like a lot of things make their way to civilian use.
That makes sense!
I love the stuff. Costs 50% more, but it's one and done!
I have this goal: I plan to carry the mill down there, set it up, and on the same "stay" mill a single post for the corner of the building and set it in concrete...all the same day/two day stay...
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Great work Don, you really want to get this running down there.
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Looking good down there Don! Why aren't the boys out there Turkey Hunting? They should be hard to miss given the size of those tracks!
Mike, they wanted to!
Friday morning there was a flock around the pond. Then this giant hen just down the hill where we were shooting. Little Pre-Ranger asks me if he can go shoot it. Knowing that 1. he would never get within a hundred meters of it. But in the off chance that he actually connected the dots, I'd have been stuck pulling feathers all day in lieu of building the sawmill base
Plucking is a no fun job, even when you set up everything to do 20+ birds. But for future reference, if you didn't already know, dip it in a pot of hot water, slosh it around a bit, then proceed to plucking. If done right the feathers come out eaiser and faster.....
Or build one these....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/6ccbbd7fae42c9948767031d25419ea7.jpg)
It's a a home crafted plucker. We built one and then sold it recently for the lack of use and because I'm not taking it with me in our next move....I have the plans so I'll build another one when we get settled in. Makes plucking chickens and turkeys way mo betterer!
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Looking good down there Don! Why aren't the boys out there Turkey Hunting? They should be hard to miss given the size of those tracks!
Mike, they wanted to!
Friday morning there was a flock around the pond. Then this giant hen just down the hill where we were shooting. Little Pre-Ranger asks me if he can go shoot it. Knowing that 1. he would never get within a hundred meters of it. But in the off chance that he actually connected the dots, I'd have been stuck pulling feathers all day in lieu of building the sawmill base
Plucking is a no fun job, even when you set up everything to do 20+ birds. But for future reference, if you didn't already know, dip it in a pot of hot water, slosh it around a bit, then proceed to plucking. If done right the feathers come out eaiser and faster.....
Or build one these....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/6ccbbd7fae42c9948767031d25419ea7.jpg)
It's a a home crafted plucker. We built one and then sold it recently for the lack of use and because I'm not taking it with me in our next move....I have the plans so I'll build another one when we get settled in. Makes plucking chickens and turkeys way mo betterer!
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My brother in law told me about those, said they work awesome!
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Looking good down there Don! Why aren't the boys out there Turkey Hunting? They should be hard to miss given the size of those tracks!
Mike, they wanted to!
Friday morning there was a flock around the pond. Then this giant hen just down the hill where we were shooting. Little Pre-Ranger asks me if he can go shoot it. Knowing that 1. he would never get within a hundred meters of it. But in the off chance that he actually connected the dots, I'd have been stuck pulling feathers all day in lieu of building the sawmill base
Plucking is a no fun job, even when you set up everything to do 20+ birds. But for future reference, if you didn't already know, dip it in a pot of hot water, slosh it around a bit, then proceed to plucking. If done right the feathers come out eaiser and faster.....
Or build one these....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/6ccbbd7fae42c9948767031d25419ea7.jpg)
It's a a home crafted plucker. We built one and then sold it recently for the lack of use and because I'm not taking it with me in our next move....I have the plans so I'll build another one when we get settled in. Makes plucking chickens and turkeys way mo betterer!
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My brother in law told me about those, said they work awesome!
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Sure glad we had ours! Could do three chickens in a minute. Or a turkey maybe two in a minute-minute & half. If a person were to process birds regularly, say every 2-3 months, well worth the investment. I thought it was worth the investment and we probably only did 75 total. I'll have to if I can find the video I took of when we first used it, simply amazing!
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Another build thread??
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Another build thread??
Yes! I have only plucked them by hand after scalding and it's a pita. Love to see a home made pucker for sure!
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This turn into a chicken plucker thread?
Man, have you ever seen such a quick turn of events?
I can't even keep up with all this crazie stuff
From sawmill installation to automatic chicken pluckin
That beats all...
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If Big D built a chicken plucker it'd prob be made of steel, with a turbo'd 2 stroke to power it!
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I used to have a customer who built commercial units & we cut them from stainless & rolled / welded the barrels. So Dawg your idea isn't too far fetched.
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I used to have a customer who built commercial units & we cut them from stainless & rolled / welded the barrels. So Dawg your idea isn't too far fetched.
There are a lot of units an individual can buy that are already made, and most of them are from stainless. As such they are not cheap.
Our plucker cost us 450 for all the materials, then a day to put it together. Where as units you can buy usually started around 1000. So we of course opted for the cheap route.
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Don would just hold them in the exhaust of the whirlybird and it would blow the feathers off and roast it to perfection.
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Don would just hold them in the exhaust of the whirlybird and it would blow the feathers off and roast it to perfection.
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This is an interesting concept, as stated this would imply Don's machine was still running after he used/abused it & as a result could cook dinner with it too?!? :huh:
Then again we're talking Army equipment so maybe it was a spare & his ride for the day was getting worked on by maintenance while he ate bird. :popcorn:
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Have you ever seen the statistics for the number of man hours required to keep one pilot in the air for one hour?? It explains a lot. Jus sayin.
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So what you're saying is Don's behavior was learned? :facepalm:
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No I sure it came naturally. The army had to learn to keep up with the carnage
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No I sure it came naturally. The army had to learn to keep up with the carnage
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So in this case an Army marches on its stomach mechanics.
:likebutton:
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Carnage is his middle name.
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Man! They have been at it again I see...
Still loosely on chickin-pluckin' however deviated a bit to egg beaters I see...
Never hit a chicken with a rotorcraft, but probably nearly everything else. Watched this echelon of seagulls lazily flying past a bunch of our Chinooks which were running on the ground in Key West NAS prior to taxi...
One by one the seagulls were sucked into the rotor systems meeting their fate with this big blossum of white feathers and red goo. At the end only one of the seagulls went mindlessly flying forward as I watched the other Chinooks shutting back down, now having to do a bird strike inspection! They missed me, flight lead, the last of the hooks. I watched this guy fly on wondering what he would think when he landed all alone...
I guess helicapeters are those monsters in the dark for seagulls...except that this was like 0900 in the morning.
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Man! They have been at it again I see...
Still loosely on chickin-pluckin' however deviated a bit to egg beaters I see...
Never hit a chicken with a rotorcraft, but probably nearly everything else. Watched this echelon of seagulls lazily flying past a bunch of our Chinooks which were running on the ground in Key West NAS prior to taxi...
One by one the seagulls were sucked into the rotor systems meeting their fate with this big blossum of white feathers and red goo. At the end only one of the seagulls went mindlessly flying forward as I watched the other Chinooks shutting back down, now having to do a bird strike inspection! They missed me, flight lead, the last of the hooks. I watched this guy fly on wondering what he would think when he landed all alone...
I guess helicapeters are those monsters in the dark for seagulls...except that this was like 0900 in the morning.
That sounds really messy....what kind of damage ensues from a flock of winged beach rats?
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Man! They have been at it again I see...
Still loosely on chickin-pluckin' however deviated a bit to egg beaters I see...
Never hit a chicken with a rotorcraft, but probably nearly everything else. Watched this echelon of seagulls lazily flying past a bunch of our Chinooks which were running on the ground in Key West NAS prior to taxi...
One by one the seagulls were sucked into the rotor systems meeting their fate with this big blossum of white feathers and red goo. At the end only one of the seagulls went mindlessly flying forward as I watched the other Chinooks shutting back down, now having to do a bird strike inspection! They missed me, flight lead, the last of the hooks. I watched this guy fly on wondering what he would think when he landed all alone...
I guess helicapeters are those monsters in the dark for seagulls...except that this was like 0900 in the morning.
That sounds really messy....what kind of damage ensues from a flock of winged beach rats?
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Usually when you have a bird strike with the rotor blade, nothing happens except for a medium sized bird explosion. I have seen bones pierce the blade skin aft of the leading edge spar, which requires a repair.
I flew a bird once with nearly a football sized hole and a bunch of smaller holes in several blades, It totalled all three blades of the aft rotor. That was expensive. Near the site where it happened, we wrapped the holes best we could with 100mph tape and flew the bird a short distance (10 or so miles) It was shaking and making an unearthly noise.
Funny part: When I landed, at an air force base the "follow me" truck pulls up, hesitates, then turns off the follow me sign and speeds off. Ground control told me the marshallers thought the aircraft was making some strange noises. I told them we had, had a blade strike, and of course they sent fire trucks, crash rescue and all that, and told us to just shut down right there. We got towed to parking and me and my crew got escorted to the hospital where they drew blood for analysis for the "Post-crash" investigation! Was NOT a fun night.
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Sawmill is broken down and loaded for transport
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The Wood-Maxx chipper is almost completely assembled
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bet that chipper works on KIA parts too....
And terrorists and yippie neighbor dogs....
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bet that chipper works on KIA parts too....
And terrorists and yippie neighbor dogs....
Probably would!
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Don, You must have the worlds most understanding wife... Does she have to park out of the street now? Your left two garage stalls are taken by the project not to be named, now the right stalls taken by all manner of equipment and motorcycles. Then the drive full of trailers and the big black thing.. :) Where does GJ go?
I know... it's only temporary except perhaps the two left stalls.
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Don, You must have the worlds most understanding wife... Does she have to park out of the street now? Your left two garage stalls are taken by the project not to be named, now the right stalls taken by all manner of equipment and motorcycles. Then the drive full of trailers and the big black thing.. :) Where does GJ go?
I know... it's only temporary except perhaps the two left stalls.
Make no mistake my friend...When the LOTH (Lady of the house) comes home in the GJ, my stuff gets moved rather quickly to make space!
But yea, it's just tempo storage enroute to the farm.
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I imagine it like Moses parting the waters! :beercheers:
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I imagine it like Moses parting the waters! :beercheers:
Good analogy!
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At the risk of invintin' more "Chicken-Pluckers build threads" I'll post up some forward progress
First of all, I got the water supply problem from the "Water-House" sorted and took my first long shower in the camper. Problem is that that little 12 volt pump pushing through the 1/2? PEX is not producing very much pressure at the shower head. I'm going to have to rethink all of that I'm afraid.
I may have to say, it's not good enough and re-engineer the whole thing. If I do, then I'll add a regular home pressure pump running on AC and replumb with 3/4" line
I have to think about all that and get some advice first, but the shower flow is less than it was with the spindly factory camper supply pump which draws off the 40 gallon supply tank.
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Got back on the sawmill installation
The job is to get the rails mounted up on two parallel beams
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That process was rather simple
By mounting the first beam close to the right side, the side I will be walking on while cutting boards I'll avoid skinning up my legs. The additional space on the left will serve as a mount for the ramp, should I later build one
I did that, then measured off that to get a parallel arrangement of the two 20' 6 X 6 posts
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Mounting them was a simple affair as well, utilizing two different steel connectors to hold everything solidly in position
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Scout approves
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Next, I set the two 12 foot sections (Yea...12 foot sections...) onto the beams, made a discovery, but bolted them back together
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Keying on the advertising of being able to cut a 20' log, I forgot to account for the two foot overhang due to the width of the mill head. So...it looks like I am not done building the support base. I think the 6 X 6 beams come in a six foot length, so I'll pick up two of those along with six bags of crete and finish the job. I already added the pieces of wood to be used as splices, I'll add some steel on the other side to strengthen it all up
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The mill rails are secured to the beams by screwing the feet directly to the beams. I put four #9 X 2.5" screws in each of a bunch of feet.
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And positioned it in such a way as to allow the log stops to recess all the way without having to swap them out for the shorter stops
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The mill is leveled through adjusting the many feet along the span. With doing no leveling at all, I am pretty close already:
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We continue to clear and clean the property in between tasks and the results are starting to speak for themselves. I did loose one day to rain, so I didn't get into the barn to salvage 30-40 of these very long 3" X 4.5" rough sawn poles which someone had nailed in all over to stabilize the thing when it was first starting to fail, I'd guess
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Looks peaceful.
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Next, I set the two 12 foot sections (Yea...12 foot sections...) onto the beams, made a discovery, but bolted them back together
A small oversight. Looks like your solution will be fine though.
In no time you'll be cutting!
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Next, I set the two 12 foot sections (Yea...12 foot sections...) onto the beams, made a discovery, but bolted them back together
A small oversight. Looks like your solution will be fine though.
In no time you'll be cutting!
Yea, It will work. That is not the weight bearing end of the mill. I won't see a lot of 20 foot logs
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That looks really awesome. The dust will be flying in no time I'm sure!
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Am I the only one that finds it ironic to buy lumber in order to build a machine that will make .... lumber? But I don't have a better suggestion. The precut and dried pieces should stay more true than a freshly cut beam anyway. Just seemed funny.
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You're not alone, lol.
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It is humorous, but the best approach.
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:popcorn:
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With luck I should have the saw mounted up on the rail and the rest of the 6X6 installed
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Hauled the mill head down to the farm today
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Getting it mounted involved climbing a steep embankment to be able to set it in place.
That felt uncomfortable
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But, we won the day, and got the thing mounted up
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While wearing one of my favorite shirts!
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That grapple bucket makes for easy log loading
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I made the first couple cuts turning the log as necessary with the new cant-hook
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hen I put my trusty assistant to work!
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When she got done, we had a beam approximately 7" X 8" and about 16 feet long
I'll use that in the building construction after I put the last section of support under the frame.
We just cut this log today to see how it all works.
It works well. Cutting Cedar is like slicing butter
After that, we closed up shop and put things away. That's when we noticed that Corey had already moved in!
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And now comes the funny part.
My Frau kept complaining that her feet hurt.
One glance and I discovered why
She has done this several times in the past. Most notable was the time she left the house with a heel and a flat!
No, I have no idea how someone could do that!!!
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Ok, I know you're just a pilot, but I thought eyepro was a must, at all times? How come HH6 doesn't have any on? I'm sure we can all agree no one likes sawdust in the eye!
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Wow, full pics of you and feet that are better looking than yours!
Looks like it works good. Whats next?
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Wow, full pics and you and feet that are better looking than yours!
Looks like it works good. Whats next?
Cut the timber and erect a building around that mill
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So the real story is "he brought the boss to keep the carnage at bay & make sure they got something completed!" :popcorn:
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Well i am impressed on all accounts, wood looks great, saw looks great, boss lady must be a saint to put up with you, and the green!!! Oh my all the beautiful Green!
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Notice he is wearing real boots and eyes!
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Keying on the advertising of being able to cut a 20' log, I forgot to account for the two foot overhang due to the width of the mill head. So...it looks like I am not done building the support base. I think the 6 X 6 beams come in a six foot length, so I'll pick up two of those along with six bags of crete and finish the job. I already added the pieces of wood to be used as splices, I'll add some steel on the other side to strengthen it all up
Don nice progress while I've been MIA. If I may make a suggestion for your needed extension. Cut the existing 6x6 midway over the last support. Double up your 2x6 cross brace on each side of that last support by scabbing another board and then place your extension beam directly on that last support and your additional supports you intend to install. That way your joint is directly over a support.
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^^words of the wise right there.
Man, you're going to end up with some real pretty wood, if I can use that word...
The mix of red in the cedar is nice, and I'm guessing the aroma, mmmm cedar.
I know you're planning a building for over he saw, just thinking out loud now...
Might be worth using it some to determine how the tractor accesses the table, where you need room to work, etc. It would suck to be off a foot one way or the other because you hadn't done 'X or Y' with it and put yourself in too small of space.
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Good advice
I'll probably forget all about it in the end, but I do appreciate it!
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Tomorrow, I will build in the rest of the support and start on erecting the building
Ill be cutting posts, then putting them into the ground, and on and on until I have the frame up...
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Tomorrow, I will build in the rest of the support and start on erecting the building
Ill be cutting posts, then putting them into the ground, and on and on until I have the frame up...
Just out of curiosity, have you ever written a "to do" list for the hide? I feel like it would be miles long.
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And now comes the funny part.
My Frau kept complaining that her feet hurt.
One glance and I discovered why
She has done this several times in the past. Most notable was the time she left the house with a heel and a flat!
No, I have no idea how someone could do that!!!
Im not sure how she got her toe nail polish to match her "capris" (clam diggers, short pants, jams, whatever they call them) either, but did you notice she is wearing two different sandals??
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And now comes the funny part.
My Frau kept complaining that her feet hurt.
One glance and I discovered why
She has done this several times in the past. Most notable was the time she left the house with a heel and a flat!
No, I have no idea how someone could do that!!!
Im not sure how she got her toe nail polish to match her "capris" (clam diggers, short pants, jams, whatever they call them) either, but did you notice she is wearing two different sandals??
Yea...That was the point of the picture
She has done that, now a few times
Let me see, started like 10-15 years ago...She went out, a girls night out thing with Duane's wife. She called me from the mall, she was wearing two different high heels!
Next time was even better. She called me from outside her corporate hqts. She had a meeting in like 10 minutes and forgot her shoes! Wanted me to bring her some...we live 45 min away.
Then was the famous call where she was complaining of back trouble. Said she felt like she twisted her back. Called me thirty minutes later and told me somehow she was somehow wearing a heel and a regular shoe...!!!
Not kidding, really happened.
Then yesterday she looks down and starts laughing, I look down, and reached for the camera!
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Tomorrow, I will build in the rest of the support and start on erecting the building
Ill be cutting posts, then putting them into the ground, and on and on until I have the frame up...
Just out of curiosity, have you ever written a "to do" list for the hide? I feel like it would be miles long.
Yea, I had plans, but the plans changed, then the resultant along with other factors caused me to change plans again.
I obviously need a building up and around the saw, so that's up
I need to imporve on the water situation down there, so I will be working on that too.
I want to install a fuel tank with a few hundred gallons of red diesel. so that's this summer.
I still want to scab on a porch to the shed
And by the winter I want to be tearing out the top area and add shed dormers
or hire people to do all that if I am away doing something else.
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Tomorrow, I will build in the rest of the support and start on erecting the building
Ill be cutting posts, then putting them into the ground, and on and on until I have the frame up...
Just out of curiosity, have you ever written a "to do" list for the hide? I feel like it would be miles long.
Yea, I had plans, but the plans changed, then the resultant along with other factors caused me to change plans again.
I obviously need a building up and around the saw, so that's up
I need to imporve on the water situation down there, so I will be working on that too.
I want to install a fuel tank with a few hundred gallons of red diesel. so that's this summer.
I still want to scab on a porch to the shed
And by the winter I want to be tearing out the top area and add shed dormers
or hire people to do all that if I am away doing something else.
I suppose with the building up of a farm from mostly scratch, fluidity of plans is probably healthy. The mill sure should make the projects mo betterer though, maybe a bit more labor intensive!
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The onsight cedar is a god send for a number of reasons really & it looks good to boot.
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Fluid is an understatement, but I like the direction.
Can't wait to see something built from on site materials.
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How about semper gumby?
Always liked that one, as it is such a true and needed statement in the military.
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OK, just finished three more days of hard labor at the farm.
First up was to finish the saw mill track install, which we completed pretty quick by adding in two more posts, then created a track mount from a piece of Cedar I had just milled
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With that completed we started milling logs into posts of varying sizes and lengths
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My young nephew worked along side of me all three days and did an outstanding job! He was a fun addition to otherwise hard work. This little guy didn't shy away from anything, as you will see in the pics coming up
Here he is standing triumphantly on a log he just milled
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The 4720 with the new hydraulic hand was making this all quite easy
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And the pile of timber just kept growing
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We used the new 2720 tractor to trim up the grass. That thing is a tyrannosaur!
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Here's a log getting milled
After loading it onto the deck, I try to level up the skinny end to get a close to flat cut. This prevents you from wasting materiel.
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We flipped the log, taking advantage of the new flat side, and milled the other side flat
Then I slabbed off another 1" thick piece
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Then we rotated the thing so that a flat side was resting on the stops, and took a cut off the top, making it three sided at this point
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It's so easy cutting, that a kid can do it!
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Un dog it, rotate it through two "90's", re-dog the cant and make the final cut to produce a beam
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Use the tractor to remove it, and to get a fresh log, and repeat the process again
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Corey jumped in and we repeated the process over and over
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Then it was time to start setting posts for the front of the building
The auger doesn't always work in rocky soil. On most holes, we needed to dig out the embedded rocks to clear a path
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And that process was not without peril
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Hmmm, sideways pic
Oh well. I'm tired...
The little guy and I would clean out the hole, pour half a bag of that really-quick crete, the drop in a post
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When I said the little got into the work, I mean he really GOT INTO the work!
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We managed to get four posts into the ground, consuming 20-60 lb bags of concrete. We braced each post to level it then poured away.
The wide opening will accommodate a log as long as the mill. The additional space on either end will allow for work space and shelving to hang up everything sawmill related.
as for height, I expect that I will make it as tall as the shortest timber after I cut it off square.
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The posts give a little after cutting so they are not perfectly straight, but darned close
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The work area stayed amazingly clean while the implements hold position in the treeline
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Scored a new set of screwdrivers for like $5 from Northern Tool. Magnetic tips and all, I own two sets of these and they work well
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I also picked up a metric and a SAE set of impact deep well sockets
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I'm experiencing some weird problem with the aux water supply system. Its as though the pump barely pumps anything!
Now the power supply is 12VDC, coming from the battery...and the battery looks pretty dead
It is supposed to be charged from an onboard battery charger, but I wonder if that has failed as well
I think I'll throw on a new battery and see if I can get something happening.
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That mill is really slick Don! Glad you're getting use outta the Cedars like that - better than the bonfire extravaganza of a Dozer Deck burning them to ash. First picture of the nephew head first into the hole and I thought you were prepping him to build a hand dug, stone lined well or something :azn:
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Mill is earning its way already. That is some great looking wood, pity to bury so much.
I was wondering about warping, you addressed that.
I think that claw needs a set of eyes on the upper clamp.
Is the pump fed off the trailer batteries or its own source??
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You need a couple of solar panels to keep the batteries charged!! 2 100 watt panels and a small charge controller would do the trick.
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Mill is earning its way already. That is some great looking wood, pity to bury so much.
I was wondering about warping, you addressed that.
I think that claw needs a set of eyes on the upper clamp.
Is the pump fed off the trailer batteries or its own source??
I like that idea my friend!
I am powering the pump off the main camper battery, well, trying to anyway
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You need a couple of solar panels to keep the batteries charged!! 2 100 watt panels and a small charge controller would do the trick.
Yea, maybe...
Ultimate goal is off grid so that computes
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I like the progress, Don! Before long you'll have a self contained little industry there!
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I like the progress, Don! Before long you'll have a self contained little industry there!
It has the potential to be sure
But rest assured that this limited production capability will be totally consumed with growing out the operation there for some time to come!
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What do you do with all the scrap? Siding?
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I think some may work for that, but I'd bet mulch will end up for much of it.
Makes good firewood as well.
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That's really great Don. And must be that much more enjoyable to make your own rather than running to the local lumber yard to get them. :likebutton:
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I think some may work for that, but I'd bet mulch will end up for much of it.
Makes good firewood as well.
He's got that fancy chipper. I'm betting cedar shaving ground cover. kills weeds and keeps bugs away. great for under the shed and around the trailer
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I think some may work for that, but I'd bet mulch will end up for much of it.
Makes good firewood as well.
He's got that fancy chipper. I'm betting cedar shaving ground cover. kills weeds and keeps bugs away. great for under the shed and around the trailer
Eggs zackery...
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We sided a small building with cedar slabs about 20 years ago now. Still looks great with no maintenance. It might be a good cheap option for siding something like this shed for the mill.
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ooh I like where you're head's at Bear. DON! Hey DON! DON'T CHIP THOSE BOARDS!
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ooh I like where you're head's at Bear. DON! Hey DON! DON'T CHIP THOSE BOARDS!
Or at least the ones that can be used as boards.
That was where I was originally trying to go...
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I agree, barn boards or firewood. Leave the chipping for the limbs that are too small for firewood. Hope you have trees other than cedar, the cedar burns quick and really sends the hot coals flying when it snaps crackles and pops.
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I think some may work for that, but I'd bet mulch will end up for much of it.
Makes good firewood as well.
^^^^^
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ooh I like where you're head's at Bear. DON! Hey DON! DON'T CHIP THOSE BOARDS!
Or at least the ones that can be used as boards.
That was where I was originally trying to go...
I plan to slap up cedar boards over the exterior of this new mill-house.
Thing is, right now and for awhile I'll need to mill the beams and slowly erect a timber frame skeleton. Then I can slice up some into boards. But these logs don't yield all that much board like timber. And even at 1" thickness, the boards are balsa wood light. I have found the cedar trees have many voids which make creating board lumber tricky.
I'm really just beginning with all this. When I get my sawyer feet on, I'll be able to create more from the same logs I think
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Scored a new set of screwdrivers for like $5 from Northern Tool. Magnetic tips and all, I own two sets of these and they work well
Oh oh! Those orange ones! Don't leave them out in the sun! The UV bakes all the hardener out of them and the handles turn to rubber. Then they twist inside the handle and they're done for!
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Having to routine cleanup work farmside. Things such as clearing the winter deadfall, and cutting grass. May and June around here is grow time. Already the fields are 18" tall with grass going to seed already. I let it seed, then bushhog, which yields a good batch of new grass from all the scattered seeds.
The mill building area is pretty wet from all the rain, so we can't really get in on that without wallowing in mud.
Realizing that I am constantly transporting 15 gallons of diesel down there using the three cans on the back of C-Max, I felt it was time to get some bulk fuel in there.
TO that end, I picked up a used 285 gallon diesel fuel tank from a farmer not far away. It was originally manufactured in Hamilton, Ohio, not too far from here and is known as good quality stuff around here.
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There is a lot going on up top
There is a fill port, then some really heavy cap that lifts up, then a 1.5" NPT nipple deal, then a fuel level gage, then an emergency vent
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It has a build tag, a serial number, and a UL approval tag along with something else I can't read
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The fuel level gage works
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I'm not sure what this heavy steel cap is all about. Could be used as a fill port if you wanted
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And I think this is a fill port:
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It rests on skids and looks to be recently painted.
I plan to sand it down, then throw three coats of enamel with hardener on it, then mount a 12VDC pump/filter unit I just ordered.
I picked it up for $245 which seemed about right for something in good condition. The inside was full of diesel, but that was removed showing minor rust, which I think I'll blast loose before painting.
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That heavy cap is a "burp" cap isn't it? Hot sun builds pressure and it lifts to blow a fart you REALLY don't want to light!.
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What are you going to do with the inside?
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What are you going to do with the inside?
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Inspect,
Clean
Fill with fuel
Assuming I find it to be in very good condition...
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On a side note, if you start cutting any hardwood, the slabs work very well as fence posts. My neighbor has cut a ton of lumber over the past years, enough to build two very large barns. For all the hardwood slabs, he cut them with a chainsaw at 8' lengths, and used them for fence posts. This was for a barbed wire fence to hold his cows. Been a few years installed, and they are still solid as can be. Just a thought.
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On a side note, if you start cutting any hardwood, the slabs work very well as fence posts. My neighbor has cut a ton of lumber over the past years, enough to build two very large barns. For all the hardwood slabs, he cut them with a chainsaw at 8' lengths, and used them for fence posts. This was for a barbed wire fence to hold his cows. Been a few years installed, and they are still solid as can be. Just a thought.
The top six feet of those darned Cedars are all fence posts. But, don't have any critters (that are actually mine) yet
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Hey Don, since you referenced your Bovine Refugees, I learned an interesting wrinkle on Free-range laws you might need to check-out - in the West (includes Iowa!?) if YOU don't want your neighbors cows grazing on your land, it's YOUR responsibility to build fence to keep them out......we don't have an immigration problem, it's just FREE GRAZERS!
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Started working on that tank. Concept of the operation was to clean it up pressure wash the interior with hot soapy water, sand it down and get it ready for paint
First up I had to pry out this plug
THis 2" NPT nipple will likely be the pump mount site
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Found this stuff inside the tank
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Yep, still has some red dyed off road diesel inside. There was some sediment, but not much and no real rust to speak of
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After pulling the drain plug, I tilted the thing and blasted away using dawn soap to produce an autoclave like cleanliness!
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Then a couple hours later I had the thing all sanded up. Again, I didn't really find anything. It had a red oxide primer base, followed by a coat of silver, then another coat of light gray which I'd say is fairly recent
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I touched up the bare metal and sanded down rust spots with that epoxy rust sealant paint which both locks in rust and pretty much evenly coats ones fingers and arms...especially if you have an abundance of arm hair. Girly men would fare much better, but then again you'd never find a metro-sexual actually working...
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I'll touch up the brush marks with some 220 grit prior to spraying.
I'm going to do 15 coats of candy apple red lacquer followed by a dozen coats of clear. I want to be able to wet sand the imperfections out and get it looking like a mirror!
You buying any of that? Interested in a bridge I have for sale in New York? Kind of guy who spent two hours going from hardware store to hardware store in search for a gallon of half tone dots?
Continuing, Here is the approved thread sealant for tanks and such. Works pretty good on old cuts and blue jeans. The green color helps identify the once good pants as work only clothing! Cool!
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The autoclave cleaned interior was rust scale free, so I touched up the intake port with some epoxy paint designed to dissolve in the fuel and clog injectors on John Deere tractors. I'll keep you all posted if the stuff actually works!
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Like I mentioned. it works well on digits as well as palms, backs of hands, foreheads and forearms! Pretty universal stuff if you ask me!
I was using #150 grit, but when the sander bogged down, I switched to just using my hands! THe paint literally flew off. I have palms and fingers that go from #60 to #80 and is harder than asteroid crust!
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And there ya have it folks, another mess in the making!
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you must have one heck of an EPA disaster somewhere there on your property............
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you must have one heck of an EPA disaster somewhere there on your property............
Funny...I was thinking along similar lines.
But more on the note of the over nosey neighbour up to no good, and getting the EPA and hazmat cleanup on order...
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Just tell them he was washing ducks from an oil spill site. That'll make the liberals think the chem spill was worth it to rescue wildlife.
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Well first off, little paint would get on my arms. Heck I shave twice a week sometimes!
That tank looked great inside. You going to have a service come fill it or just truck it there when needed?
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Well first off, little paint would get on my arms. Heck I shave twice a week sometimes!
That tank looked great inside. You going to have a service come fill it or just truck it there when needed?
Gonna try and have a truck come in and top it off
I am hearing .40 off list in taxes alone. The trick, I hear is to find out when a service station nearby is getting topped up, then see if they can also deliver to my location.
The problem might be in the fact that I am so remote
Alternate plan is to pick up a couple 55 gallon drums, and a hand pump, then top up at a local ag-gas place and have the pre-rangers gets loads of arm exercise! ;-)))
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you must have one heck of an EPA disaster somewhere there on your property............
Funny, but I never even thought about that
Socialist states sure have left their mark!
Too bad we can't do some sort of cleanup on the socialist problem ;-))
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you must have one heck of an EPA disaster somewhere there on your property............
Funny, but I never even thought about that
Socialist states sure have left their mark!
Too bad we can't do some sort of cleanup on the socialist problem ;-))
Now we're talking.
The hand pumps are a bit of a work out, but certainly doable.
Builds character I think is the saying...
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you must have one heck of an EPA disaster somewhere there on your property............
Funny, but I never even thought about that
Socialist states sure have left their mark!
Too bad we can't do some sort of cleanup on the socialist problem ;-))
Now we're talking.
The hand pumps are a bit of a work out, but certainly doable.
Builds character I think is the saying...
Yea!
10 pump strokes per gallon X 55 gallons = 550 push/pulls
It's all good, one is conditioning for football already...this should play right into that. With the rowing and push-up pump action and stacking up that rock wall, that boy is gonna create casualties. Well, he already checked that block!
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Depending on where you store the tank, siphoning should work fine.
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Lift it in the bucks of Sarge and siphon. You will probably need a federal off road dyed diesel license. I have the application sitting on my desk right now.
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Holy crap! You need a federal license for off-road diesel in TX?
We probably have a half dozen or more plastic 55gal drums at my work, I don't think anyone would care if you took them Don. Just throwing that out there...
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Lift it in the bucks of Sarge and siphon. You will probably need a federal off road dyed diesel license. I have the application sitting on my desk right now.
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No license required
We even have a service station near here that has a pump dedicated to it. Just pull up and pump away!
Can you say, "Free-dom!"
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Holy crap! You need a federal license for off-road diesel in TX?
We probably have a half dozen or more plastic 55gal drums at my work, I don't think anyone would care if you took them Don. Just throwing that out there...
I get them from the nearby tire store. THey give them to me.
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I started with trying to pull the 2" NPT nipple out of the bung it seemed to be seized into.
I used a four foot piece of DOM I had laying about and with some protest it came loose
Having measured the suction pipe, it would have been too short with that extension, so removing it was my only real option
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The pre-Ranger approved
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Next, I gave the whole thing another sanding with #220 grit to break the glaze on the new epoxy, and smooth things up in preparation for the paint
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Then it got washed with prep-sol solvent to remove any sweat, oils or anti-matter.
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I went to TSC and scored a gallon of "Oliver Tractor Gray" paint for $19! It was on sale and nearly matches my fav, the Lycoming gray aircraft engine paint. I added a quality hardener and reduced it with enamel thinner and shot nearly a half gallon onto the thing. I gave it four coats to give it some long years of fighting sunlight and one of Kim-ill-sung's EMP bombs.
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Is that a MOAB?
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THis will probably go on in the morrow. Its a 12 VDC fuel pump rated at a thousand gallons a minute or something like that. Cool business about this dude is the cost...a cool $199!
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Is that a MOAB?
No
MOAT
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I'll be adding this critter as well. I purchased it because I liked the color
Farms n' hide sites ought to be pretty, don't cha think?
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I moved these so that they wouldn't blend in with the tank...
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I'm sure I'm saying what you already know, but make sure you're pick up tube is not on the very bottom of the tank. Always leave it a few inches up off the bottom. Everything you don't want going into your tractor resides in the bottom few inches of a fuel tank...
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I'm sure I'm saying what you already know, but make sure you're pick up tube is not on the very bottom of the tank. Always leave it a few inches up off the bottom. Everything you don't want going into your tractor resides in the bottom few inches of a fuel tank...
Very true words spoken here.
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Back when I was working, we had the fuel tanks pumped out once a year. Pain to do but sucking out the bottom few inches really helps keep the equipment running
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Could a wire mesh sock be made to keep out the crud?
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Could a wire mesh sock be made to keep out the crud?
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Crud is only part of the problem. The filter don is adding will work.
Water is another issue, it and larger debris will be quite content in the bottom three or so inches.
Mesh screen would be a good idea none the less.
And emptying occasionally once a year or two would be good insurance the water if any was gone.
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Just add a Fass onto it.
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OK Paint cured and I think I have a good coating here
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Here is the pump mount and 2" NPT bung adapter and the three sections of pick-up
With the pickup extended all the way, it sits about 2.5" from the bottom of the tank, about what you boneheads were recommending!
Got lucky!
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Next up I had to connect the 18' lead wire to the pump/switch assembly
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Then I split about a foot of cable, soldered on two alligator clips and finished the cable with conduit and tape
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Here is the pump kit for those interested in repeating this exercise
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Then the O-ring, inline screen strainer, and pump are bolted together
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The outlet elbow is installed and a short length of 1" iron pipe to give room for filter changes and water draining
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I installed the nozzle holder next to make sure things would align and fit properly
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his tab allows one to padlock the nozzle for security
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Filter is installed
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This kit came with a 14 foot supply hose, one of the reasons I purchased it. I feel that a hose of less than 14 feet gets sort of sketchy. When working with things like Sarge, you don't want to get too close to anything, especially things that go "Boom!"
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With that installed, I was almost mission complete (MC)
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I painted the iron pipe and decaled the thing up and called it gud enough!
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Some seriously good finish there.
Looks like a winner there Don.
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Looks good! Where are you putting it? Under a shed or a canopy or??
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Looks good to go Don, that pad lock installed in the pot metal will at least let you know some one helped themselves while you were away.
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Looks great Don!
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Nice work Don.
Have you thought of using plugs with all those little 12v items you keep building?
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Looks good to go Don, that pad lock installed in the pot metal will at least let you know some one helped themselves while you were away.
I have prayed over the property, that evil will have no course there. Under God's protection I believe in faith things will be OK down there. Believe it, live it!
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Looks good! Where are you putting it? Under a shed or a canopy or??
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I'm thinking four posts, with a platform. Tank resting on platform with a roof over head
Would be simple enough to construct and inexpensive
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I think a concrete slab would be better than a wood type thing to hold all of that fuel weight....?
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Looks good! Where are you putting it? Under a shed or a canopy or??
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I'm thinking four posts, with a platform. Tank resting on platform with a roof over head
Would be simple enough to construct and inexpensive
Have you decided how you'll refill it? Just thinking if you plan to trailer it to refill making the platform for easy on/easy off the trailer might make sense. Maybe even something where the "platform" releases from the posts so you back the trailer right under the canopy....lift platform and tank together and away you go. Or skid it on & off. But you might need an anchor off back side of said platform for ease of skidding. Also thinking the height should be for when the tan is on the trailer full as opposed to when it's empty- easier to skid an empty tank "uphill" vs a full tank "uphill". Course if you're having fillups brought to you you can ignore everything I just said. Ha. I just like the idea of being able to take it and fill it where you want to.
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I think a concrete slab would be better than a wood type thing to hold all of that fuel weight....?
It would work, but the whole tank, full of gas is just a tad over 2,000 lbs
Diesel is what, 6.8 lb/gallon?
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Looks good! Where are you putting it? Under a shed or a canopy or??
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I'm thinking four posts, with a platform. Tank resting on platform with a roof over head
Would be simple enough to construct and inexpensive
Have you decided how you'll refill it? Just thinking if you plan to trailer it to refill making the platform for easy on/easy off the trailer might make sense. Maybe even something where the "platform" releases from the posts so you back the trailer right under the canopy....lift platform and tank together and away you go. Or skid it on & off. But you might need an anchor off back side of said platform for ease of skidding. Also thinking the height should be for when the tan is on the trailer full as opposed to when it's empty- easier to skid an empty tank "uphill" vs a full tank "uphill". Course if you're having fillups brought to you you can ignore everything I just said. Ha. I just like the idea of being able to take it and fill it where you want to.
I'm going to bolt the whole thing down to Kentucky so it is hard to move
I'll truck in the gas
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Don, here's an idea you might want to consider.
More often than not these fuel tanks get stuck beside a building or structure. Structures can burn, lighting etc. on my grand dad's farm we mounted our fuel tank to a wooden skid. The idea being in event of fire to the adjacent structure we could hook onto it with vehicle & get it away and save the fuel. Knowing the premise of this location I think it would be a good idea. We built ours from heavy beam and both ends were cut at an angle so we could pull in either direction.
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Don, here's an idea you might want to consider.
More often than not these fuel tanks get stuck beside a building or structure. Structures can burn, lighting etc. on my grand dad's farm we mounted our fuel tank to a wooden skid. The idea being in event of fire to the adjacent structure we could hook onto it with vehicle & get it away and save the fuel. Knowing the premise of this location I think it would be a good idea. We built ours from heavy beam and both ends were cut at an angle so we could pull in either direction.
That would probably work, but I just plan to hard mount it down near the woodline. It will be some distance from structures. Afterward I'll cut the trees from around it and slice them up for barn wood.
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Still couldn't hurt to make the mount movable, you never know.
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Still couldn't hurt to make the mount movable, you never know.
Disapproved
Apply later for final disapproval! ;-)
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finally remember to haul down the passive solar heating panels and get them mounted
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And, man do they work!
Notice the delta here on the panel that is mostly obscured by the empty water tank...18 degrees. The temp bulb is resting in the upper plenum where hot air is collected then ducted through some holes into the water tank structure. A few minutes before this, the output was 101.4F
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Then we started on a big clean up and reorganization
There was construction debris scattered, the water tank was parked out front, the banks had caved in and I just felt since we live in that thing when we are farmside, then why not make it look better
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This pano shot shows the need for some reorganization.
The place does not look like this now after reorganization
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I consolidated all the implements into one area on the side of a field adjacent to the saw mill building
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Then I dug out the shelf and cut a new access which will be graveled in and a stone retaining wall installed to clean it all up
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Next up, placing the fuel tank.
After much consideration, I don't have a good clue as to where I want to place that rascal, so for now, I'll just skid it up
That should make, like, half of you happy!
Fresh cut cedar from the farm!
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We moved that tank slowly and with great care...wouldn't want to mess up the show car finish.
Note here. This paint is like the least expensive stuff on earth. Seriously around $20 a gallon on sale. Just add hardener to get a decent glossy finish. My new favorite color, Oliver tractor gray!
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I just screwed through the angle with four ea. per side #9 X 2 1/2" torx bit screws and called it good to go. I placed it along side the "road" so that I could fuel up Sarge without tearing up terra firma too badly
I'll likely consolidate it into the mill house turning barn structure when the time comes.
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Next, I leveled and smoothed the ground atop the shelf I built a couple years ago. It is going to become a mulch bed and PPS (Pleasant Place to Sit)
Started already with the wind chimes...My artsy-fartsy side. When I get bored, I use them as .22 targets!
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As per usual, I add to the toolage about every time I go down there. Give me a few years and I'll have it all too confusing to find anything!
This time: Bolt cutters...everybody needs bolt cutters!
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We also leveled the water tank shed. It had settled a bit and looked that way...Now it's literally "Squared-away"
It all cleaned up quite nicely!
I also removed the second pile of cedar logs up near the shed, and tore down the four poles for the covered shooting bench. Looking at that thing, I just didn't like it, and I hadn't used concrete so it was rickety...best to just loose it...I did. After moving all those logs and mowing the area, it looked darned nice
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Dog is the same, no mater where he is...
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Funny...This morning I get up and make my quoffee. I'm sitting at the table looking out at the field. There is a deer and four turkeys walking and grazing.
So I let the dog out, and watch.
The turkeys stretched those periscope necks up looking at him and the deer lifted his head, then they just went back to grazing for 20+ minutes until I let the dog back in
Not even turkeys fear that dog...!
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Nice temp rise and decent organization.
Guard dog?
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Tank skid=great idea
... probably would work better if you rounded off the skids tho. Right now it's probably called a tank drag.
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Started already with the wind chimes...My artsy-fartsy side. When I get bored, I use them as .22 targets!
Glad to see the artsy-fartsy side. Balances out the carnage side which seems to be absent this post. Lol.
Amazing how far it has come since you first purchased.
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Don, here's an idea you might want to consider.
More often than not these fuel tanks get stuck beside a building or structure. Structures can burn, lighting etc. on my grand dad's farm we mounted our fuel tank to a wooden skid. The idea being in event of fire to the adjacent structure we could hook onto it with vehicle & get it away and save the fuel. Knowing the premise of this location I think it would be a good idea. We built ours from heavy beam and both ends were cut at an angle so we could pull in either direction.
That would probably work, but I just plan to hard mount it down near the woodline. It will be some distance from structures. Afterward I'll cut the trees from around it and slice them up for barn wood.
That sounds like a good plan. Although having it on skids is better than most people's plan, it's not perfect. For example, what if a fire starts on the building wall immediately adjacent to the tank? What about a brush fire encroaching on the building from the tank side? By the time someone realizes what's happening and gets there with a vehicle it may be too hot to connect to the skid, or the brush fire may have cut off access to the skid. In that case (especially in a rural area), you, the building, and everything in the building are screwed. Not to mention the dangers to first responders trying to prevent a BLEVE. If I'm not understanding the situation feel free to disregard.
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Wait, how long has it been since Don broke something?
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I won't ask you to divulge anything in a public board where anyone plodding around on the net can see it. But with the serious $ you have invested in equipment at the site and its location which at times would allow bad guys lots of time to do bad things I think a decent security camera system would be in order. I don't know much about them but ones with multiple cameras and run a feed to the cloud on a continuous basis. Maybe with a 3 hour overwrite or something. Plus some I have seen would allow you to see what's going on there from an app. I think they've gotten good enough power wise you could run them from an inverter, deep cycle battery and solar panel. My thought is have one or two on the driveway so you see anyone who came in poking around. But also a couple looking at the trailer, the shed and the implement parking lot you have (including fuel tank). Just my $0.02 and no need to acknowledge if said system is in place.
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Nice temp rise and decent organization.
Guard dog?
Fail!
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Homemade trailer might be a good idea. Sure can be handy for the 1SG to bring fuel instead of you having to stop work to go get it.
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Wait, how long has it been since Don broke something?
Yesterday
Was just cutting grass...Nothing any more challenging than that
So I mow over this rock, which grenades and shatters a bunch of smaller rocks everywhere.
Some how one rock flips up on top of the mower deck
The place where all the pulleys and belts are churning.
I had not noticed that not one, but BOTH belt guards has fallen off and are laying out in the pasture. I have run over one of them repeatedly, but at this point I don't know that yet
The rock jams between a pulley and a belt and rips the belt off.
The pulley is dented and the belt which was put on there by a special machine capable of applying one million pounds of stretch to said belt. So I drive over to the shed and start to devise a tool to get that belt back on.
My tool involves a couple screwdrivers...remember the new Northern ones...The ones HigherCaliber said would dissolve in sunlight...those ones?
Well I am prying like a two fat women trying to open the frig door trying to get to a single snickers bar hidden in the ice maker, when the handle of one screw driver comes off, allowing 50,000 pounds of force to spring back and drive the other screwdriver through my finger. I didn't actually feel it at first, it had happened so fast. And it only stabbed in to be correct, did not come out the other side. It was the blade screwdriver that failed and the #2 phillips that stabbed me. So I upped the ante with bigger toolage and accomplished the mission.
I recovered both belt guards, installing one straight away, and after hammering the other back into approximate shape reinstalled it.
Since that time it has fallen off again and I can't find it! The 2720 has been initiated!
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I won't ask you to divulge anything in a public board where anyone plodding around on the net can see it. But with the serious $ you have invested in equipment at the site and its location which at times would allow bad guys lots of time to do bad things I think a decent security camera system would be in order. I don't know much about them but ones with multiple cameras and run a feed to the cloud on a continuous basis. Maybe with a 3 hour overwrite or something. Plus some I have seen would allow you to see what's going on there from an app. I think they've gotten good enough power wise you could run them from an inverter, deep cycle battery and solar panel. My thought is have one or two on the driveway so you see anyone who came in poking around. But also a couple looking at the trailer, the shed and the implement parking lot you have (including fuel tank). Just my $0.02 and no need to acknowledge if said system is in place.
I thought about security
Thought about making a Kintucky security system
Starts with an old gizzer who likes to make moon shine
Get him to set up on the property
He will never leave the property, and no one will come near him for fear of getting shot
I'd give him my old double barrel of course. Darned thing fires both barrels when you pull either trigger
Archaic system, but should work!
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There's the missing CARREP.
Coming along nicely Don.
Silly screwdrivers...do you have a set of pry bars?
They would be more appropriate I'd say. Past experience here, I have driven screwdrivers into flesh as well when they break. Pry bars handle the stress better.
I'd also second the security cameras thing, if it is needed.
That I don't know.
The old gizzer would likely work too.
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There's the missing CARREP.
Coming along nicely Don.
Silly screwdrivers...do you have a set of pry bars?
They would be more appropriate I'd say. Past experience here, I have driven screwdrivers into flesh as well when they break. Pry bars handle the stress better.
I'd also second the security cameras thing, if it is needed.
That I don't know.
The old geezer would likely work too.
Give me ten or so years and I'll be an old geezer myself
All I'd need to do is set up a still and I be my own security system...Heck I already own the shotgun!
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I like the security camera idea and then an app to your phone with one on the entrance. That way you know when someone comes in and can look at the cameras later if you see them leave with something. Or even better, just run em all to the phone!
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I have a camera system in my hide/weekend place. Satellite internet is very expensive to constantly stream up images. My system emails me when it detects motion along with a still shot of the image. Then I can use the app to check in via live stream. Total investment $1500 for 9 cameras and NVR. Cameras have 75ft IR
Only advice is NOT to mount cameras on trees. When they sway in the wind the cameras sense motion
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Well I am prying like a two fat women trying to open the frig door trying to get to a single snickers bar hidden in the ice maker, when the handle of one screw driver comes off, allowing 50,000 pounds of force to spring back and drive the other screwdriver through my finger. I didn't actually feel it at first, it had happened so fast. And it only stabbed in to be correct, did not come out the other side. It was the blade screwdriver that failed and the #2 phillips that stabbed me. So I upped the ante with bigger toolage and accomplished the mission.
For next time.
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Not the same design
On mine I had to loosen a bolt to allow full tensioner retraction
At that point the belt would still not slip over the pulley
I had to add some blood and yelling to the operation to get the belt on
In the end its all good
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LOOKIN GOOD DON, AND I LIKE YOUR SECURITY PLAN, BUT IT REMINDS ME OF SOMEONE ;-)
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Claymores at the gate?
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LOOKIN GOOD DON, AND I LIKE YOUR SECURITY PLAN, BUT IT REMINDS ME OF SOMEONE ;-)
;-))
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Claymores at the gate?
That might just work...
And it is KINTUKY!
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Maybe some simple signage out on the main road would keep folks away....here's some ideas....
CDC LEVEL 5 BIOHAZARD FACILITY
(https://d3qvyul2tp4j8.cloudfront.net/i/Ze2nK8mnaY.jpg)
(https://www.gannett-cdn.com/-mm-/9933bdd49f2a44cd136f3186fa141e423e736301/c=24-0-4184-3120&r=x404&c=534x401/local/-/media/CentralFloridaFuture/2014/10/29/harekrishnatemple.jpg)
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this will do.
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Better than this one:
(https://www.uua.org/sites/live-new.uua.org/files/kristin_joiner_image.jpg)
I've been seeing that one and wondering why they don't just say "rob me, take my stuff, rape the women" sheesh.
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barf-o-rama
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^^^^ Just look at what you people did to my thread^^^^^^
:knucklehead:
:facepalm:
:cry: :shocked:
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Claymores at the gate?
That might just work...
And it is KINTUKY!
Yes it is
In church the other day a buddy comes up to me
Says:
"I was cleaning out the closet the other day and ran across some tannerite...I thought of you!"
Kin-tuk-ee
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this will do.
I will take several,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Claymores at the gate?
That might just work...
And it is KINTUKY!
Yes it is
In church the other day a buddy comes up to me
Says:
"I was cleaning out the closet the other day and ran across some tannerite...I thought of you!"
Kin-tuk-ee
That's a friend for sure Don! :likebutton:
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Just came back in from four daze of massive labor
Scene at my house last night:
I showered after getting home, toweled off, jammies on, in the bed, next event I remember is Scout's face in mine with a ball in his mouth about 0800 this morning!
Wife said the boys are sore all over. They didn't talk much but just climbed in bed and passed out
Dogs, both of them, came in, ate fell asleep!
Wife thought her whole family abandoned her!...Have to deal with that for a while today I guess!
I purchased a go-pro camera since I am always leaving my good camera out in the rain or driving over it ow painting next to it, or welding next to it and so forth
It has recorded much...Problem is the cable used to connect it is still down farmside!
Life!
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OK, figured it out
Micro SD: Remove, insert into SD card adapter...Insert into computer...Download pictures
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The boys are clearing out a section of the woodline where we plan to plant the outhouse and maybe even the fuel tank.
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All those branches turned into this:
Which I spread over the area I flattened last week, transforming that into the beginnings of a flower bed
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I added 300 gallons to the water tank and watched its consumption. Over four days, three of us used fifty gallons. It is necessary to clean up after hot sweaty dusty work, and of course cleaning cooking utensils
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Then I got started on this area. It needs a retaining wall and a roof. Need being is shelter and protection against a tornado. It won't take long so I am prioritizing it over the barn construction for the short term...That and getting the outhouse in and running (Does it actually run???)
First up was squaring off the edges with the 2720 tractor
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Next, up, cutting up seven posts from my stack of waiting logs
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I moved the 2720 and "Jaws" over to the pile of scrap from milling the big logs and reduced that all to cedar chips
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CARREP: After the boyz cleared out around the future outhouse site, I mowed all around it, venturing into the woods, even "Mowing" a new path a hundred feet or so into the woods...
Then I remembered I had Jaws attached with its snorkel like discharge chute...
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None the less, seven perfectly useable posts came to be and are reporting for duty!
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50 gallons over 4 days with that many people is excellant!
but, according to that pic, you used about a buck fiddy!
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While all that business was going on, that 3 X 3 X 8 hole was steadily moving toward China
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50 gallons over 4 days with that many people is excellant!
but, according to that pic, you used about a buck fiddy!
I started at short of 175 (per tank) and that moved down to around 150 per tank
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This work was all by my lonesome during the hot part of the day. It was slow going. Drill a bit, then dig out the rock, then drill a bit more and repeat. It took me on average maybe 40 min per hole times seven.
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Sled dog was so hot, she shed off her entire coat in a single shake!
No kidding!
Well, maybe I'm kidding...
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They want to join the infantry...This would be a good start, I'd say
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End of a very hot, long day
Satisfying...
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The food was mostly delicious.
Cooked directly on campfire coals, I made up tin foil bags with cubed steak, chicken, potatoes, and shrimp drenched with steak seasoning and olive oil and a dash of pepper and salt. Could have eaten the tin foil.
Tin has honey beans with steak seasoning. They went down easily as well. Served with an ice cold water and chased with some sweet tea!
My sister supplied some delicious kielbasa and broccoli and some pulled chicken.
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^^^^^ My wife does a much better job than that, but, hey, it will make a t___!
And that wrapped up another well spent week Farmside!
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Lookin good
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Those are some good looking polls, should do the job nice.
With all those shavings, maybe you need a way to store them some. Then move where needed?
Tin cooking is great. Last time we camped I heated things on the dmax.
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Looking good Don!
That's a small CARREP for the amount of work done.
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:likebutton:
Think you earned a couple days of rest......
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Boys did a nice job on the outhouse hole, but it's a pretty long distance from the Shed and Trailer! Reminds me of the old "funny book titles" from my youth - "80 Steps to the Outhouse" by Willy Makit & Betty Wont :grin:
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Boys did a nice job on the outhouse hole, but it's a pretty long distance from the Shed and Trailer! Reminds me of the old "funny book titles" from my youth - "80 Steps to the Outhouse" by Willy Makit & Betty Wont :grin:
Funny!
Especially for those memorable times when you have the "Green Apple Quick-step!"
That dude is intended more for when activities are centered around the mill area, or when knuckleheads (Nice knuckleheads) show up from Chicago! ;-)))
It's more than a crappy job for the boys...
Sorry, couldn't resist
But
I intend to grow men. That soil is so hard it paves the transition between mud and stone, Literally! Bu setting a seemingly impossible task ahead of them, I have given them the opportunity to explore their limits. They may not enjoy digging it, but bet you me, they will shine with pride over a singularly insignificant hole in the middle of Kentucky. That hole will help me build them!
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...I intend to grow men. That soil is so hard it paves the transition between mud and stone, Literally! Bu setting a seemingly impossible task ahead of them, I have given them the opportunity to explore their limits. They may not enjoy digging it, but bet you me, they will shine with pride over a singularly insignificant hole in the middle of Kentucky. That hole will help me build them!
There's a lot of awesome in that paragraph!
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...I intend to grow men. That soil is so hard it paves the transition between mud and stone, Literally! Bu setting a seemingly impossible task ahead of them, I have given them the opportunity to explore their limits. They may not enjoy digging it, but bet you me, they will shine with pride over a singularly insignificant hole in the middle of Kentucky. That hole will help me build them!
There's a lot of awesome in that paragraph!
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FACT!
:likebutton:
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...I intend to grow men. That soil is so hard it paves the transition between mud and stone, Literally! Bu setting a seemingly impossible task ahead of them, I have given them the opportunity to explore their limits. They may not enjoy digging it, but bet you me, they will shine with pride over a singularly insignificant hole in the middle of Kentucky. That hole will help me build them!
There's a lot of awesome in that paragraph!
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:likebutton: :likebutton:
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My youngest son commented in disbelief after watching the thing ripping up mother earth. "Dad that thing is just pure death and destruction!" Spoken like a true future infantry officer!
I started with mucking out the original hole. I went down through four feet of goo and maybe 40-50 yards of the stuff until that side had reached a solid clay bottom
Then I doubled to tripled the hole size. This was just a starting point. The pond (hole) as it sits now is 5 times or more larger in length and twice as wide and over 10 feet deep across the entire long axis
In progress:
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After a lot of digging I fired up the Sarge and moved a lot of dirt and tracked it in on top of the levee end of the pond. I stacked that up 3-4 feet higher and widened it considerably. All that goo I had piled up on the backside slid off and went down the hill. It's a four feet mud slide a hundred or more feet long. It's drying and when it gets dry enough I'll stack it back up on the bank
Riding on Sarge on top of that levee 30+ feet up in the air was pretty creepy...But I survived and that's' my story!
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I forgot to take pics today, but the "Shelf" on the high side was cut all the way across the long up-hill axis, and all that dirt was piled on top and along side of the levee and tracked in where I could get to it.
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That pond is now a couple hundred feet long, 10-12 feet deep and wider than yesterdays pics depict. Additionally I cleaned it all up, curving the sides and ends. I still have to work the excavator on the uphill/shelf side to curve that side and cut another 8-10 feet out.
I have stacked a bunch of really big boulders along the "Road" that is adjacent to the hole so some mixed up night driver doesn't practice submarine crash dive techniques.
I think the place was subject to some big winds. The little Oak tree sitting beside my camper was broken and on its side, and I found stones embedded into the side of the camper!
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And now for everyone's favorite
My weekly CARREP:
Coming down the lane, when I drove Chief in, I destroyed a slew of pesky trees, because I could, and they needed to be destroyed. I now have some great new neighbors who agree that the road needs to be widened and improved a little.
Well, I took out a clump of Cedars leaving the largest one. My thought was to just trim it up to make it "Pretty"
Then I remembered the neighbor saying he was bringing a camper in. That single tree would scratch the dickens out of his camper so I went down the lane with the tractor to remove debris and pull down that tree.
Turns out that tree was a stubborn cuss, refusing to yield. So, after grubbing the rootball, I started ramming it with my tractor and grapple
Note to self: In the future, do not ram things with your expensive tractor.
Well the tree yielded after awhile and I won, I thought.
When I tried to curl the grapple back, it groaned and refused to move backward
On the post flight inspection I noted this:
The last pic shows what it should look like.
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And then I woke up to discover this:
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I yanked that cylinder off
John deere wants a new born child and $481 for a replacement cylinder
I think I'll drive over and visit a hydraulics shop or my buddies at Case to see if its repairable. I know pros straighten motorcycle forks, why not cylinder pistons?
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Hey Don you might want to have a guy that knows ponds, dams and the like come check what you dug. Hate to see it fill up then give way and wash out some neighbors place. At the same time you might have the EPA or similar fed agency crawling down your neck for water related stuff. I would just be careful....with that size that much water packs a lot of weight.
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I believe the EPA and clean water regs only apply to navigable water or those tributaries connected to it (thats the new stuff).
As long as his water is from his property and does not run to a navigable waterway he should be fine.
Heard some crazy stories about that!
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Re the bent cylinder.....
Don, use the right tool for the job. You have a 30,000lb track hoe....jus sayin....
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They might be able to straighten the cylinder but they usually break. We never buy them from a dealer. Always from our local hydraulic shop.
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Re the bent cylinder.....
Don, use the right tool for the job. You have a 30,000lb track hoe....jus sayin....
55,000 lb track hoe!
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Hey Don you might want to have a guy that knows ponds, dams and the like come check what you dug. Hate to see it fill up then give way and wash out some neighbors place. At the same time you might have the EPA or similar fed agency crawling down your neck for water related stuff. I would just be careful....with that size that much water packs a lot of weight.
Plan to!
EPA: this is Kentucky
I believe we tar and feather folks from places like that!
Just kidding, we use heavy oil and mulch!!!!! ;-))
The bulk of the water containment will be held below the original grade. I expect water to fill over the years to a level well below the rim. I have observed the amount of filling that hole has received over the years and it is not sufficient to fill that whole-holy-hole.
And in actuality, as in no kidding, this is a part of kentucky where a government plated vehicle would not be a completely safe place to be. People down there look at it the same way as they do our hole-ridden stop signs.
Having said that, I am a responsible land owner. I wouldn't do anything that endangered my neighbors or upset the balance of nature in the area...
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And now for everyone's favorite
My weekly CARREP:
Coming down the lane, when I drove Chief in, I destroyed a slew of pesky trees, because I could, and they needed to be destroyed. I now have some great new neighbors who agree that the road needs to be widened and improved a little.
Well, I took out a clump of Cedars leaving the largest one. My thought was to just trim it up to make it "Pretty"
Then I remembered the neighbor saying he was bringing a camper in. That single tree would scratch the dickens out of his camper so I went down the lane with the tractor to remove debris and pull down that tree.
Turns out that tree was a stubborn cuss, refusing to yield. So, after grubbing the rootball, I started ramming it with my tractor and grapple
Note to self: In the future, do not ram things with your expensive tractor.
Well the tree yielded after awhile and I won, I thought.
When I tried to curl the grapple back, it groaned and refused to move backward
On the post flight inspection I noted this:
The last pic shows what it should look like.
YAY CARREP! I have to laugh.. I have this video in my mind of you slamming that tree. Can you just get a Go Pro to follow you around for our entertainment? :popcorn:
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And now for everyone's favorite
My weekly CARREP:
Coming down the lane, when I drove Chief in, I destroyed a slew of pesky trees, because I could, and they needed to be destroyed. I now have some great new neighbors who agree that the road needs to be widened and improved a little.
Well, I took out a clump of Cedars leaving the largest one. My thought was to just trim it up to make it "Pretty"
Then I remembered the neighbor saying he was bringing a camper in. That single tree would scratch the dickens out of his camper so I went down the lane with the tractor to remove debris and pull down that tree.
Turns out that tree was a stubborn cuss, refusing to yield. So, after grubbing the rootball, I started ramming it with my tractor and grapple
Note to self: In the future, do not ram things with your expensive tractor.
Well the tree yielded after awhile and I won, I thought.
When I tried to curl the grapple back, it groaned and refused to move backward
On the post flight inspection I noted this:
The last pic shows what it should look like.
YAY CARREP! I have to laugh.. I have this video in my mind of you slamming that tree. Can you just get a Go Pro to follow you around for our entertainment? :popcorn:
Go-Pro...How did you know?
I bought one a couple weeks ago, used it once for several days at the farm, saw the quality of the pics and took it back and got a refund
I am not a fan of those things
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Don, from someone who has owned ponds & been involved with building maintaining them. Two things, anything over 2 acres must be engineered by army corp of engineers. Number two, put in a tile over flow at the point you never want to see the water get higher than. This will take into account 100 year floods etc. better be safe than sorry. Or don't listen to me & disregard what I said, including but not limited to deleting this post & banning me for the 678th time.
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Go-Pro...How did you know?
I bought one a couple weeks ago, used it once for several days at the farm, saw the quality of the pics and took it back and got a refund
I am not a fan of those things
Glad I'm not the only one! We bought one for races and such, it was more problems than it was worth, back to the store it went!
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We are exoecting storms in Kentucky tonight. This will be the first test. The news man said torrential down pours in northern Kentucky.
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don or anybody that I moved a post for, did I miss anything?
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My tractor has a 400X loader...Not a 400CX
Why is that important you ask?
Well I had priced a bucket cylinder for a 400CX loader, not a 400X that I actually own.
And why is that important?
The $485 price of the 400CX cylinder is not the same as the price of a 400X bucket cylinder
The 400X cylinder is over $650
More J Deere skinnin' you for everything they can. I'm sure there is some union fees, some Obama care, some EPA regulation and a host of other costs rolled into that, but to say that is ridiculous is an understatement!
So I went to a national hydraulic cylinder supply house. I found a matching cylinder that has a 20" stroke instead of my 18" stroke for $128!
It is 1/2" shorter and the pins are on the wrong ends. So I ordered two of them. I'll get them, cut the pins off, and reweld them onto the proper ends, then install a matching set onto the 400X. With shipping and fittings I am under $300 for TWO cylinders vs the $650 obama care single J Deere cylinder!
Oh and I tried to straighten my bent cylinder...Note to me and everyone else: You can't straighten these things. They are brittle iron. As soon as I applied pressure in the press, "Snap!" I had two pieces and some dust where I used to have one!
Is this actually another CARREP or just a continuation of the first?
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don or anybody that I moved a post for, did I miss anything?
Looks good Nate, Thanks!
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No problem
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Ouch on the JD Cylinder cost. That's a lot for nice green paint.
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bet you can sell the one good JD one on craigslist or ebay and come out almost even......
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Don, you should find a local company that rebuilds cylinders. Much easier than buying new everytime you wreck one.
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John Deere is good at raking people over the coals. Glad you found a less expensive option.
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Don, you should find a local company that rebuilds cylinders. Much easier than buying new everytime you wreck one.
Cincinnati driveline...I called them. Something like a minimum $200 ish labor charge + parts. Rebuilt unit approaches the cost of a new one. Called second place. Wanted $90/hr to look into it.
I can solve this myself. To heck with this price gouging. Two new cylinders for under $300 and like Tex said, sell the deer unit for more than the cost of the two new cylinders. Or just save it for a future project
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You may want to keep it and start a PLL for the hide.........
Do you even remember PLL or bench stock?
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Don, you should find a local company that rebuilds cylinders. Much easier than buying new everytime you wreck one.
Cincinnati driveline...I called them. Something like a minimum $200 ish labor charge + parts. Rebuilt unit approaches the cost of a new one. Called second place. Wanted $90/hr to look into it.
I can solve this myself. To heck with this price gouging. Two new cylinders for under $300 and like Tex said, sell the deer unit for more than the cost of the two new cylinders. Or just save it for a future project
Yeah but was that including the frequent flyer discount that you would surely receive?
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You may want to keep it and start a PLL for the hide.........
Do you even remember PLL or bench stock?
I remember Nate!
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Don, you should find a local company that rebuilds cylinders. Much easier than buying new everytime you wreck one.
Cincinnati driveline...I called them. Something like a minimum $200 ish labor charge + parts. Rebuilt unit approaches the cost of a new one. Called second place. Wanted $90/hr to look into it.
I can solve this myself. To heck with this price gouging. Two new cylinders for under $300 and like Tex said, sell the deer unit for more than the cost of the two new cylinders. Or just save it for a future project
Yeah but was that including the frequent flyer discount that you would surely receive?
:-)
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I think I mentioned that I was going to try and straighten out my cylinder
Well that didn't work out so well
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What was the method?
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What was the method?
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30 ton press on either end
Arbor pressing against apex of the "Bend"
Loads of arm cranky
Followed by a big bang sound and fearful thoughts
I wasn't applying very much pressure at all when it went. Makes me wonder how it bent in the first place. It is like NOT flexible.
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Makes me wonder how it bent in the first place. It is like NOT flexible.
I'm no engineer, but thinking it might be because it bent under compression force and when it was on the press it was a perpendicular force?
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Makes me wonder how it bent in the first place. It is like NOT flexible.
I'm no engineer, but thinking it might be because it bent under compression force and when it was on the press it was a perpendicular force?
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Probably, sort of. When you initially bent it you stretched the material on one side by pulling and elongating it. There was no object in the middle of it which it was bent around.
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That's too technical for me!
Darned thing just broke
And that's all I need to know!
Good news is the other cylinders just arrived!!!!!!!!!!! :cool:
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So here is one of them:
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It had an O-Ring fitting which required another fitting to adapt it to the flat face O-Ring style ends on the hoses of the Deere
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Now, there is only one problem...And that requires some cutting and welding. The ends were reversed on the cylinder from what I needed to fit the tractor. To make these fit, I would have to cut the ends off and swap them, which I did.
Pulling a metal saw through a brand new hydraulic cylinder is not for the faint of heart!
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Another consideration I had to take in account was that the big end of this new cylinder was 2.5" in diameter, whereas the big end of the Deere part was milled down to 2.25". That end recesses into the boom a tad bit, so to make me and my machine happy, I welded a 1.25" spacer made out of wood inbetween the cylinder and the end fitting.
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I used a good quality Iron wood with cedar welding rods to get that done. Darned thing looks like steel!
I welded the other end after jigging the thing up and just like that, and with the addition of my fav JDB (John Deere black) I was cookin' in bacon grease.
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While I was cutting and defiling things I decided to ruin a perfectly good tractor seat. I like it, but the hippies will hate it since it represents black. Hey, wait, maybe this will sell. I'd have a black seats matter thing goin' on here...
Anyway J-Deere warrantied me a brandly new seat for my aging carcass and I decided to make it all mine.
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I mean they all turn a grungy black anyway, might as well get out ahead of all that and fit in the social order all at the same time!...Smart!
I'll be using the SEM vinyl paint in the Landau Black, because black paint matters as well!
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Here it is now being socially acceptable:
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And the old one coming off...
Not wanting to offend American Indians, nor Orientals, I opted to paint this one with the paint that matters as well...It looks good enough to mount onto sarge and plant a grandchild in it for some semi-terrifyin' antics with paw-paw.
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And here is my machine properly sanctified:
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I'll blend in perched on that thing, and the enemy shouldn't be able to see me while I improve my fighting position!
That's it for the nacht. Have to cook crabcakes and ban Sam. I'd banish him but he is 40 miles north of nowhere already!
Be good, stay tuned!
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Somewhere in the world a JD engineer just got a sick feeling that something is terribly wrong. :grin:
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Somewhere in the world a JD engineer just got a sick feeling that something is terribly wrong. :grin:
Umm... Present
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Maybe it's just me, and because EVERYTHING is hot down here right now, but my first thought was, "ouch, that's gonna burn!" Maybe not up there in the tuck, but down here where it hasn't rained forever in SE AZ, black seats burn!!!!
And apparently kens neck o the woods plastic is melting outside! Well maybe a bit north west of him, but y'all get the point!
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Well, at least you didn't cut the piston off on the first cut!
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I'm still a little squeamish over this...
Or at least nervous for your sake... :shocked:
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Well, at least you didn't cut the piston off on the first cut!
I missed it clean!
Darned thing still moves in and out!
Discovered it had a bunch of fluid inside by mistake!
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I'm still a little squeamish over this...
Or at least nervous for your sake... :shocked:
Faith of a mustard seed my polar bear friend, and that cylinder will move a small mountain!
Its almost biblical!
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I missed it clean!
Darned thing still moves in and out!
Discovered it had a bunch of fluid inside by mistake!
So, you say'in that the seals broke loose from being melted to the inside of the cylinders? lol
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I missed it clean!
Darned thing still moves in and out!
Discovered it had a bunch of fluid inside by mistake!
So, you say'in that the seals broke loose from being melted to the inside of the cylinders? lol
Guys that do this said to just extend the cyl all the way and the heat can't travel far enough to matter. Works on hydraulic cylinders but apparently not on the southwest!
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:likebutton: Still trying to peel my ball cap off as we speak.
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:likebutton: Still trying to peel my ball cap off as we speak.
I feel for ya Ken, and all the rest of you brave menses and good women who are on a slow cook cycle at the moment.
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Been farmside for the past few days...I'm bushed. Nothing like hard work to realign the spirit.
I started off with the repair of the J Deere 4720
I popped on the two new cylinders:
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And...They worked like a champ.
So John Deere cost was $650 for a single replacement cylinder
I purchased two new ones with a longer stroke and slightly larger diameter and 4 fittings for under $300
Any questions???
Then I plugged the tire where a nail had punched a hole
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And right away I got started moving big heavy rocks from the pond dig site up to the living area. Here is an area I finished, then filled with several yards of cedar mulch I created with the chipper
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Here is the new "Quarry."
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Next up I moved four huge stones and cut them into the bank leading uphill from the camper to the shed. I plan an extensive rockscape here, this is the start of all that
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And this little guy is still digging "his" hole
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We had that tropical rain storm pass through a few days ago. It packed in 2-4 feet of water in my pond excavation!
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Everyone younger than me is already using it for recreation!
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CARREP
I suffered a busted taillight (No clue as to how??) and another flat tire
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Then I got busy framing in the shelter structure near the camper
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The cost for all that was zero. I had some left over 2 X 6 X 14's which would have cost something normally, but, not this time. I'll plate over them with a 2 X 10 later, as this is just to get something defined.
Working with these big pieces of cedar require some HD connectors. I am using structural 6 in. screws which are drilled in and counter sunk
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I quit the framing at this point. Next up will be the band and the roof trusses
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Then I started on the interior wallage. I had planned to build the walls of Cedar planks, but in the end settled on big, really heavy stones. After two days of wrestling those things around I ought to have my head examined!
But I am still using natural materials takes from my property, so here we go
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And when I brought in a stone too big for the wall, I stacked it on "Ranger Wall" or on the next set of steps up to the shed
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You can't believe how much work it is hauling in those rocks, excavating for each one, then leveling the spot with gravel, and finally working the stones into place
It's a workout!
Now off to a hot epsom salt soaking bath...
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looking good!
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Lookin good boss!
And a small CARREP to boot!
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Wow Don, really looking good. Cedar mulch so close to Combat Max is a tactical risk, but manageable with Sarge to pull you free! Makes the place look spiffy and suitable for female habitation in the near future.
Sawmill is really paying off for you and the place looks WAY different from a year ago! That hollow knob still home to a raccoon, or have the boys convinced it to move elsewhere?
:likebutton:
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Wow Don, really looking good. Cedar mulch so close to Combat Max is a tactical risk, but manageable with Sarge to pull you free! Makes the place look spiffy and suitable for female habitation in the near future.
Sawmill is really paying off for you and the place looks WAY different from a year ago! That hollow knob still home to a raccoon, or have the boys convinced it to move elsewhere?
:likebutton:
I think it moved on...to the old house. The sled dog ate one up last week, but it was younger. My theory: The hollow knob coon was growing rapidly and gettin' fat snakin' on all the leftovers the boys carelessly left about. The HKC simply outgrew the entry hole and had to move into the snake infested old house.
Makes sense...
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Bunch of work there Don. Looking great!
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Bunch of work there Don. Looking great!
Danke!
Who has a truss building/figurin' link?
Have to fab up 8 trusses this week to get some roofage on that crooked structure.
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Nice work Don. I like it.
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Bunch of work there Don. Looking great!
Danke!
Who has a truss building/figurin' link?
Have to fab up 8 trusses this week to get some roo___e on that crooked structure.
Just overbuild it, you will want to store stuff up in those rafters at some point anyhow.
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what he said... ^^^^^
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Overhead storage is dangerous in the event of a fire in the building. The obvious is falling debris but it can/will lead to premature roof failure. When the roof goes, the walls are right behind it.
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I think I am just going to overbuild it!
Picked up all the materials today. Will get on cutting it to pieces tomorrow and hopefully have a truss or two by day's end
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Did you ever take the outhouse down there? Or still in basement? Or did I miss something. I thought Pre rangers were hand digging hole.
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Well, was going to build some roof trusses today, however I found out that Tractor Supply Company had a one day 15% off sale for military folks.
So it was off to the races to pick up one of the water storage tanks I needed, which I now own
I needed a 1550 gallon tank which my store stocks to collect rain water from the shed roof, which I will connect to the two 330 gallon tanks feeding the camper, outside hose, and soon to be, outside shower.
After loading that monstrosity up, I just decided to run it straight down to the farm and dump it about where it will soon reside permanently.
1550-gallon bulk storage
Mobile nursing tank
87 in. dia. x 67 in. H polyethylene bulk storage tank
1-1/4 in. poly fitting
3 year limited warranty
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Finally got caught up with this. Broken, fixin, welding, buying, digging and wall building.
That ought to provide for few days of water and even a shower or 2.
I like the mulch and rocks, looks homey.
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Finally got caught up with this. Broken, fixin, welding, buying, digging and wall building.
That ought to provide for few days of water and even a shower or 2.
I like the mulch and rocks, looks homey.
Wife liked it too
She saw it all for the first time in a month, yesterday
She liked the stone steps and stone handy work
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Don, question for you. I know you had cows show up on your property, have you had any stray dogs show up? I seem to be a magnet for stray dogs at my place.
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Don, question for you. I know you had cows show up on your property, have you had any stray dogs show up? I seem to be a magnet for stray dogs at my place.
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No dogs!
One stray cat...ugly thing, wasn't there the next time we came around
A few coyotes
A bunch of Turkey
Deere and deer, of course
A dwindling raccoon population
opossum
Squirrel
Chipmunk
Cows (4)
Snakes
Turtles
Crawdads
Fish, various
(Very) unconfirmed two bear sighting
A couple Marines
One squid
and an Air Farce critter
and some things which go bump in the night
But no doggies
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Worked on the roof trusses for the trellis thing I was calling a gazebo
Not sure what exactly it is, but these things will hold up the roof stuff which will keep me cool/warm/dry/comfortable
First thing I ripped the four sheets of 1/2" OSB into one foot wide strips
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Then I broke them down further into one foot squares
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And hauled the rest of the lumber into the shop
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For trusses up to 14 feet, which this one is, the engineers only call for a single "strut", however in the spirit of overbuilding everything, I will use two per side or four total for the span
The general plan was planned, and computed before cutting anything
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The top pieces are 7' 10" long and affix to a 14 foot bottom piece.
Having a 6/12 pitch, the top angle is 26.57, so I went half way between 26 and 27 degrees and I got a perfect fit
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Then I marked and cut the angles into the lower (tension) piece
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Then allowing for a three foot wide section in the middle (Actually a bit less) I cut up the four uprights and fitted them temporarily
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With a few pieces screwed together temporarily, I placed wood blocks which I had taken out of the head of my hillary lovin' neighbors and placed them around all the members and taped them securely to the floor, creating a jig of sorts
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Next I started cutting endless duplicate pieces from which I will build seven identical trusses
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That's a lot of ciphering, you sure you're qualified for such things?
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BTW, we cleaned the shop prior to beginning this job, so you can appreciate just how messy all that cutting made the place!
Next up, came the OSB reinforcements. Each joint gets a specifically shaped piece of OSB...many, many pieces of OSB
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That's a lot of ciphering, you sure you're qualified for such things?
Questionable...
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Here's some detail of those reinforcements which are both glued and screwed onto the 2 X 4's
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I missed one square, but I'll come back and wack off those pesky corners
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As you can see, I have a long way to go, including plating the other side of this first trus...Oh, yes, these reinforcement plates go on each side before we can call it finished.
That all took me to around 2030, time to call it a good day and hit the shower.
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Looks really good.
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Looks really good.
I just hope they do their job when I nail them up in place
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Screwed and glued, but are they tattooed?
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Looks really good.
I just hope they do their job when I nail them up in place
Just remember that your 2 outside ones dont get the additional pieces of wood, use the metal pieces in their places.
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Looks really good.
I just hope they do their job when I nail them up in place
Just remember that your 2 outside ones dont get the additional pieces of wood, use the metal pieces in their places.
Don't gots no stinkin' metal parts!
Not getting covered, whole thing will be exposed. Maybe throw a little stain up there. Keeping it simple, open, rustic
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Finally got caught up with this. Broken, fixin, welding, buying, digging and wall building.
That ought to provide for few days of water and even a shower or 2.
I like the mulch and rocks, looks homey.
Wife liked it too
She saw it all for the first time in a month, yesterday
She liked the stone steps and stone handy work
This^^ is an important bit...
Nice work on the trusses.
They should do the job just fine.
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That is alot of trusses with a little storage down the center.
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That's a lot of ciphering, you sure you're qualified for such things?
Questionable...
I think we are OK.
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:likebutton:
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One:
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Building these things is a fair amount of work!
Here's the process
Lay the base into the jig
Then the two top pieces
Glue and screw them together
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Then place in the uprights
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Then place the plate over its joint, mark it, apply a liberal amount of glue, then attach the plate with 2" deck screws
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Why would you leave the ends open? You have plenty of cedar bark cuttings to make some good looking gable ends
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Then flip it over and glue and screw the opposite plates onto the truss
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Why would you leave the ends open? You have plenty of cedar bark cuttings to make some good looking gable ends
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Just no need to close it in Dave, its a trellis. It will only have half walls of those huge stones, the rest will be a breezeway
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Two:
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Here's a detail of the screws and plate setup
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This guy was on me the whole time. If I dropped a chunk of wood, he'd have it and shred it. Crazy mutt collects sticks, rocks, socks, old water bottles, shoes, and leftover lumber pieces!
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Three:
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
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The half wall sounds good until the weather turns.
Those look solid!
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
Yes it sucks making them.
Your jig is how I did all mine out at the lake.
Only I used the building floor to screw the blocks to.
Time consuming, and hard on the back if I remember correctly.
Look good though.
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
Yes it sucks making them.
Your jig is how I did all mine out at the lake.
Only I used the building floor to screw the blocks to.
Time consuming, and hard on the back if I remember correctly.
Look good though.
Hard on the back and the knees!
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Two words
Sheeting gun.... (staples muy faster)
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Two words
Sheeting gun.... (staples muy faster)
:-)
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Two words
Sheeting gun.... (staples muy faster)
:-)
I don't have a sheeting gun, but did use my air powered hammer.(framing nailee 2" nails)
Therefore only back ache from bending down.
Now screws, yeah knees too...
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Over the years, I have gravitated to building everything with screws. They provide so much more clamping force for operations such as gluing these panels to the structure. Really, the glue does all the holding, but the screws provide for a good clamp/bond, then always a great backup to just hold by themselves.
But I think I'll nail the trusses to the top band with ring shanked stainless 3" nails with my pneumatic nailer.
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Over the years, I have gravitated to building everything with screws. They provide so much more clamping force for operations such as gluing these panels to the structure. Really, the glue does all the holding, but the screws provide for a good clamp/bond, then always a great backup to just hold by themselves.
But I think I'll nail the trusses to the top band with ring shanked stainless 3" nails with my pneumatic nailer.
Off to Tractor Supply Company (I'm their biggest buyer :-) to pick up a new gate. That old 10 or 12 footer is not cutting the mustard. (Why would anyone want to cut mustard anyway??) I'm opting for two new treated posts, some black stain, and a brandly new 16' heavy equipment friendly gate.
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Over the years, I have gravitated to building everything with screws. They provide so much more clamping force for operations such as gluing these panels to the structure. Really, the glue does all the holding, but the screws provide for a good clamp/bond, then always a great backup to just hold by themselves.
But I think I'll nail the trusses to the top band with ring shanked stainless 3" nails with my pneumatic nailer.
Off to Tractor Supply Company (I'm their biggest buyer :-) to pick up a new gate. That old 10 or 12 footer is not cutting the mustard. (Why would anyone want to cut mustard anyway??) I'm opting for two new treated posts, some black stain, and a brandly new 16' heavy equipment friendly gate.
did you bump your head this morning don?.......this is like saying "military intelligence" is smart.......... :shocked:
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New gate sound good, but are you running chief "through" it all the time?
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16 footers are nice but for equipment, two 10's is mo better.
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16 footers are nice but for equipment, two 10's is mo better.
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This^^
Two 10 footers are also easier on their posts.
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Very true. That extra 4' is especially handy when pulling a trailer and the approach is at an angle.
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Two 10 footers are also easier on their posts.
and we all know Don needs all the help he can get in this regard... :grin:
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Steady as she goes folks
Big D has it handled in style! :grin:
I picked up the single 16 footer as planned. Went with heavy duty 2" tubing in lieu of the 1 3/4" stuff of lighter steelment. (New Word)
Approach angle is straight on
Chief will use the gate some to do "Road" workage, but not often
I read that two 10 foot gates are for women, so I steered clear! ;-)
Back to work men, stop wastin' time thinkin' up dumb stuff and postin' it here on MY THREAD :-0
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
I take it you didn't get a quote from Lowes? I looked one time when pricing out a shed and I think I remember them being fairly inexpensive
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
I take it you didn't get a quote from Lowes? I looked one time when pricing out a shed and I think I remember them being fairly inexpensive
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I probably should have.
I get a 10% (mil) discount there which is always nice.
But I do know mine are pretty stout. You can't believe how much those plates and glue stiffens those things up.
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Next time I am paying for someone else to make the trusses!
I take it you didn't get a quote from Lowes? I looked one time when pricing out a shed and I think I remember them being fairly inexpensive
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I probably should have.
I get a 10% (mil) discount there which is always nice.
But I do know mine are pretty stout. You can't believe how much those plates and glue stiffens those things up.
I bet they are, pretty overbuilt with those webs... but nobody ever said "gee I wish I would have built this weaker" lol
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:likebutton:
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Picked up a bunch of stuff to continue to improve my capability to sustain (Fix all the stuff I break routinely)
Got the hand saw, a couple magnetic strips from which to hang more tools, some big zip ties to set around the lower jaw of any idiot who starts talkin' liberal crazy! I might also use them as a quickie fix for something I am yet to break.
Always need an extra bag of dead chicken parts for the mutts, some cut off disks, a longer level so I can reduce my out of square construction down to around 90% of everything I attempt to build. Let me see, there is some other stuff there as well which I purchased just to add color to the shop!
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Have a NOCAREP
(Natural Origin Carnage Report)
Must have left in a hurry, because I didn't reel in the awning
and that cost me
Looks like it tried to go flying and lost a wing spar
Crashed and didn't burn, but will cause me to build a real steel roof over that thing now
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And the pond has another foot of H20 in it along with some new tadpoles
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All that dirt I piled up should have slid down the bank and be headed for Mississippi, but it seems to be staying put, just cracking and settling a bit
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Scout did a slow drive-by while I was checkin' out the frogs
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And this thing didn't leak!
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Coming up on bush hog season me thinks
But I kind of like the fields of wild flowers. Must be the repressed hippie in me coming out a bit!
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Oh and since we are talking about guns, Keith did my G-19 up for me (did I show this somewhere else already?)
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Nice gun graffiti!
Too bad about the awning. I bet you felt like Comey did with Lynch, when you rolled up on the scene....started feeling "queasy".
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Ditto on the awning. .. can it be fixed or is it a total loss? Place looks good!
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Ditto on the awning. .. can it be fixed or is it a total loss? Place looks good!
I have same one, I suspect the metal/aluminum bits could be replaced. The big tear, however, will not be so easy if possible to fix.
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I have same one, I suspect the metal/aluminum bits could be replaced. The big tear, however, will not be so easy if possible to fix.
Liberal application of 100 mph tape will ensure years of usage. While not aesthetically pleasing to gaze upon, HH6 might allow a continuance of service pending a complete overhaul, of course only after Chief pleads his case as to why he failed to secure loose equipment...
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Liberal application of 100 mph tape will ensure years of usage. While not aesthetically pleasing to gaze upon, HH6 might allow a continuance of service pending a complete overhaul, of course only after Chief pleads his case as to why he failed to secure loose equipment...
:likebutton:
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Ditto on the awning. .. can it be fixed or is it a total loss? Place looks good!
I have same one, I suspect the metal/aluminum bits could be replaced. The big tear, however, will not be so easy if possible to fix.
Yup.....when I commented I was looking on my phone and didn't notice that it had torn away from the front part....I thought it was maybe just struts etc under.
Ditto the 100 mph tape. It'll make the place look more Kintuckyish too right? :beercheers: :shocked:
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Nice gun graffiti!
Too bad about the awning. I bet you felt like Comey did with Lynch, when you rolled up on the scene....started feeling "queasy".
Yea!
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I have same one, I suspect the metal/aluminum bits could be replaced. The big tear, however, will not be so easy if possible to fix.
Liberal application of 100 mph tape will ensure years of usage. While not aesthetically pleasing to gaze upon, HH6 might allow a continuance of service pending a complete overhaul, of course only after Chief pleads his case as to why he failed to secure loose equipment...
Found something mo-betterer
Gorillia tape
Got some stuck to my hand last year and its still stuck there!
Well, maybe not, but it's good stuff
Plan is to just pull it off the trailer and put up a metal roof and small deck and connect that to the gazebo/trellis/roof thing
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I picked up two-3,000 gallon water storage tanks today
Nasty looking things, I am about to apply lots of high pressure water to them.
Interesting find and story, Thank you Brian! I purchased them at a really great price, but they need some work
Let the spraying begin
Pics after the work.
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Here they are as i found them, sitting behind this restored early Federal house in the hills near Cincinnati. This neighborhood was amazing with so many large, elegant homes and impeccable landscaping. The gentleman, Brian who advertised the tanks is the same one who installed the extensive landscape
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I felt sort of bad after looking them over. They were not the sort of tank I thought they were. They were, however super heavy duty 3,000 gallon water storage tanks, but used these huge 4" bulkhead fittings to access the water inside.
I decided I would pass them by since the $600 each we had agreed on was too much in my opinion. I did offer $500 for both of them knowing I wouldn't have any chance to purchase them, and frankly, I had already switched mental gears to purchase a new 3K tank from TSC.
But the gentleman who owned them agreed and just like that, I owned two 3K tanks!
THe guys working there rolled them out onto the street where we loaded both onto the trailer and I strapped them down.
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Those things just dwarf my Chevy!
I drove no faster than 62mph and after maybe 45 minutes, I had the tanks back in my driveway
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I had opted to pick up a long spray pipe for the pressure washer so I could reach everything from the outside, but that wasn't to be. Cleaning the inside involves a trip through that little hatch!
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Wow....those are beasts. Cool price too!
I just wish for a day I had a bug in your neighbor's kitchens every time you come wheeling in with something like this. :grin: Dang I would pay to hear those conversations.
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These things have sat in a wooded area, above ground, for years. They were a reservoir for collected rain water that was used in a lawn sprinkler system. The good part in all that is that the tanks have only ever had water in them. The bad part is that they were heavily soiled and stained and had a lot of algae and mud on the inside.
It took hours, but the grime started to yield
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Wow....those are beasts. Cool price too!
I just wish for a day I had a bug in your neighbor's kitchens every time you come wheeling in with something like this. :grin: Dang I would pay to hear those conversations.
Oh, don't you know it!
They want everyone to behave in a predictable and civil manner
Definition: Never do anything that appears like life as I know it. They will be throwing a block party if I ever move!
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This is the "Cleaner" tank after washing number 1.
The technique is to wash everything you can get to and try and rinse it out the 4" hole I positioned at the bottom. Then crawl inside and get close and personal.
Remember this is only one cleaning. The next set will show the really dirty tank after the inside spraying
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And the nasty tank with all the sediment before and after a lot of spraying
As in two gas tank of gas in the pressure washer!
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The rust stains are permanent and cause no harm what so ever.
THe tank looks great now and ready to be taken down farmside. I'll do the approximate placement, then slap down a couple coats of green paint to make them algae proof.
I think I might just paint the south side flat black to help with heating in the winter...
I scrubbed up the bulkhead fittings as well. I was going to order new rubber gaskets, but, frankly, the originals look great still.
Those are some big fittings and cost around $100 each!
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I still have to wash out the inside of tank one, but other than that, I am nearly done with them and ready to tie them down and transport to the farm.
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Once installed an hooked up, these will put me at a little over 8,000 gallons of water storage.
I think a couple more 3K or 5K will do the trick. I wanted to settle in on around 20,000 gallons total capacity, but this will be a good interim capacity.
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Wow, nice score!
How 'bout filling them and add a couple gallons of bleach just to be on the safe side?
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Yep, great score. Half of what you do reminds me of the "dirty jobs" show.
So did you wash them or assign a pre ranger to it?
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^^^He would like us to believe that he climbed in there!
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Yep, great score. Half of what you do reminds me of the "dirty jobs" show.
So did you wash them or assign a pre ranger to it?
Did it meself!
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Wow, nice score!
How 'bout filling them and add a couple gallons of bleach just to be on the safe side?
Copy that
Once they are cleaned, I'll spray some bleach/water dilute onto the inside walls and any dog that comes close by, and of course the mud-daubers...I spray them with everything!
Then farm side, when I get the well pump plumbed and running, the first fill of the tanks will be with water destined to pressure wash heavy equipment, and grandkids!
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^^^He would like us to believe that he climbed in there!
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I really did!
Now, I have to say, it was a bit claustrophobic going through an opening a bit smaller than me, but after dislocating a couple of shoulders, I fit just fine! ;-)
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Pics or it didn't happen!
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Pics or it didn't happen!
This ^^^^ I have climbed into one of those and I'm a little fellar and it wasn't the easiest!
That's a smoking deal kind of score! And I'm glad I don't live in a normal neighborhood. I like my peace and quiet, and ability to do as I please, you know gutting trucks and such shooting jack rabbits because they destroy my yard, a scrap built chicken coop, the normal stuff many of us here do!
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Curious Don. With all you have invested in that place why don't you have a well drilled?
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Curious Don. With all you have invested in that place why don't you have a well drilled?
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I simply don't need one.
I have a perfectly functioning 150 year old well, and soon I will collect rain water. A well would be the department of redundancy department
In addition to those, I have two ponds now, the one I am currently working on, and the other which will get the full treatment in the not too distant future.
Push come to shove, they are water sources as well.
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Pics or it didn't happen!
Oh it happened, and again today!
Can't haul a camera in there, spray would kill my new Canon quick.
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Pics or it didn't happen!
Oh it happened, and again today!
Can't haul a camera in there, spray would kill my new Canon quick.
Get one of the prerangers to snap one from the outside while your headed in! As I'm sure they'd get a kick out of watching you squirm through the hole to get inside and scrub!
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Pics or it didn't happen!
Oh it happened, and again today!
Can't haul a camera in there, spray would kill my new Canon quick.
Get one of the prerangers to snap one from the outside while your headed in! As I'm sure they'd get a kick out of watching you squirm through the hole to get inside and scrub!
I would have but they are both away with their mom on vacation
Yea, I stayed home...
Needed to get a lot of stuff done on the farm and for some other reasons, so no one is here to hold the camera
But since we are on the subject, when I get them placed at the farm, I will need to reinstall the fittings. That can only be done from the inside. So, other than laying them on their sides to get in, and that just may be the easiest thing to do, I am wondering just how I will crawl in from the top???
I'm thinking this is a job for a pre-ranger. Get a "Hey-You" volunteer and send them in there. All they would need to do is to hold the fitting while I tighten the nut from the outside...
Yep, sounding like a pre-ranger sort of task, more and more
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I pulled the lid seats to get a wee bit more room to squeeze inside the tanks, which afforded me the opportunity to clean all that up nicely and to put some washers behind the screw heads. Some screws had already pulled through the flange, but now everything is back up to spec
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Ain't nuthin wrong with staying home with nothing to demand your time, and have some time to focus on God without interruptions.
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The tanks got one more pressure washing, and at this point, no more stain is coming off, so I declare it done for now
I positioned a chair and a short piece of plywood to allow me to scoot inside more easily. Ease being a relative term...relative to, let's say taking a beating during one of my security training classes.
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This is about good as it gets
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It has a bunch of holes to use for various things. I will likely cap off most of them.
I think I'll have the well pump water into one tank, and have a manifold connecting the other tank. I will pull water from tank number two, and monitor tank one for cleanliness.
I want to set up a heavy equipment wash station, so I'll probably use one of the fittings to provide a bigger diameter line to the pressure washer
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The fittings "fit" quite nicely
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All tied down and ready for transport!
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They certainly cleaned up pretty good.
You maybe could try a portable sprayer to shoot some bleach in, but really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. And there's a good possibility it won't do anything more anyhow.
A beauty of a score none the less.
Those big fittings are definitely spendy.
May want to reduce to two inch stuff, still carry a lot of volume, but not break the bank for tying together and making a manifold of sorts.
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They certainly cleaned up pretty good.
You maybe could try a portable sprayer to shoot some bleach in, but really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. And there's a good possibility it won't do anything more anyhow.
A beauty of a score none the less.
Those big fittings are definitely spendy.
May want to reduce to two inch stuff, still carry a lot of volume, but not break the bank for tying together and making a manifold of sorts.
I'm going to bring the manifold down to 2", then down to 1 1/4 to 1" for various plumbing.
Eventually I'll mount a 115VAC pressure pump and run either a 3/4" or a 1" line all the way up to the shed area.
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They certainly cleaned up pretty good.
You maybe could try a portable sprayer to shoot some bleach in, but really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. And there's a good possibility it won't do anything more anyhow.
A beauty of a score none the less.
Those big fittings are definitely spendy.
May want to reduce to two inch stuff, still carry a lot of volume, but not break the bank for tying together and making a manifold of sorts.
I'm going to bring the manifold down to 2", then down to 1 1/4 to 1" for various plumbing.
Eventually I'll mount a 115VAC pressure pump and run either a 3/4" or a 1" line all the way up to the shed area.
Chief, not sure how long the run will be from your tanks to the shed, but if it's much farther than 100' I recommend 1" simply to keep pressure. I did a run of 3/4" from near the house to the coop, 110' or so feet, I notice the difference. Then I added another 200 or so feet to the garden in 3/4" with two 90* bends in it, most certainly wish I would have went 1".
I'm not a hydrologist nor did I stay anywhere last night that might have made me smarter, so this could just be a placebo effect my brain is making up....
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I can see it now. There is Don on the farm squeezing in (nice HF chair BTW) and it starts to roll. Ends up in the pond with his body weight acting like a bobber in the tank.
Most camera's do have a timer or video mod?
I slept in the woods night before and still came up with that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Worst part was my oldest threw a uneaten hot dog out by camp. I knew I heard something walking around about 5am :facepalm:
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Those openings just look so small! Don't know how you manage to squeeze in there!
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I think cut the top off of one and use it as a hot tub!
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I think cut the top off of one and use it as a hot tub!
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:likebutton:
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They certainly cleaned up pretty good.
You maybe could try a portable sprayer to shoot some bleach in, but really doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. And there's a good possibility it won't do anything more anyhow.
A beauty of a score none the less.
Those big fittings are definitely spendy.
May want to reduce to two inch stuff, still carry a lot of volume, but not break the bank for tying together and making a manifold of sorts.
I'm going to bring the manifold down to 2", then down to 1 1/4 to 1" for various plumbing.
Eventually I'll mount a 115VAC pressure pump and run either a 3/4" or a 1" line all the way up to the shed area.
Chief, not sure how long the run will be from your tanks to the shed, but if it's much farther than 100' I recommend 1" simply to keep pressure. I did a run of 3/4" from near the house to the coop, 110' or so feet, I notice the difference. Then I added another 200 or so feet to the garden in 3/4" with two 90* bends in it, most certainly wish I would have went 1".
I'm not a hydrologist nor did I stay anywhere last night that might have made me smarter, so this could just be a placebo effect my brain is making up....
Copy T
That's all I needed to hear. Was thinking I should go for the 1". Distance is around 800 feet.
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I can see it now. There is Don on the farm squeezing in (nice HF chair BTW) and it starts to roll. Ends up in the pond with his body weight acting like a bobber in the tank.
I was not a Besvis and Butt head fan but I did see one clip of one of them rolling down a hill in a big tire....made me think of that. :facepalm: :laugh:
I agree getting enough pump (and proper sizing) to keep pressure strong wherever you run it. I wss thinking for fire suppression too although I'm guessing a gas powered pump from the pond would be better than using thsee tanks for that. You can buy used fire hose cheap as departments replace them all the time used or not.
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I can see it now. There is Don on the farm squeezing in (nice HF chair BTW) and it starts to roll. Ends up in the pond with his body weight acting like a bobber in the tank.
I was not a Besvis and Butt head fan but I did see one clip of one of them rolling down a hill in a big tire....made me think of that. :facepalm: :laugh:
I agree getting enough pump (and proper sizing) to keep pressure strong wherever you run it. I wss thinking for fire suppression too although I'm guessing a gas powered pump from the pond would be better than using thsee tanks for that. You can buy used fire hose cheap as departments replace them all the time used or not.
That's true...about the fire hose.
I serve on the board of the local fire district. The firemen replace hose all the time. I am constantly voting to allocate funds to either test it or replace it.
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"I'm not a hydrologist nor did I stay anywhere last night that might have made me smarter, so this could just be a placebo effect my brain is making up...."
I was going to ask if the holiday inn express was as nice as they look, lol.
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Chief, all joking aside, there's not a lot of flat KY ground at your place. I assume you're excavating the site prior to placement etc, but how much do those things weigh?? did you load them yourself or leave them on the trailer during cleaning?
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800 ft, I would do 2 inch for sure and tap off as needed using 1 inch.
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2" wouldn't be a bad idea, because then if you had trash pump for one of the ponds you could have everything being uniform and just have to worry about buying one size of hoses and fittings. Then at the shed and living quarters do your one step down to 1".
Like this type of connector:
Anderson Process 2" X 50' Layflat PVC Water Discharge Hose Assembly w/ Cam Lock Fitt... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OVFHS1O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_JEqAzb7C6MNPZ
So every 150-200' put a T that you could connect these quick connect hoses to, for whatever washing watering fire suppressing that is needed!
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Chief, all joking aside, there's not a lot of flat KY ground at your place. I assume you're excavating the site prior to placement etc, but how much do those things weigh?? did you load them yourself or leave them on the trailer during cleaning?
I have set them on firm level ground for now, but I think a load of gravel with some grading, then set them on some sand laid on top of the gravel
I moved them by hand. Hard to know the weight, but really heavy is a term that fits here. by wiggling them you can get a bit of rotation which over time and sore muscles results in the clock change to get the outlet hole on the bottom to hose the junk out
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First thing after getting to the Hide was to cut a circular area around the well to search out a good site for the tanks
When I located it, I parked the trailer as close as I could then pushed and shoved until the tanks were off the trailer and standing up
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With them in their approximate location, I washed them down by hand with denatured alcohol
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And then started the first of 2-3 coats of Valspar acrylic latex, "Fairway-green" which I like and is close to the trim on the buildings
This series depicts the first coat minus the tops
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And here with two coats on the sides and three coats on the top
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Those tanks sure have come a long way from the sorry mess I found a week ago!
The pond has been used by a variety of critters, domesticated and wild
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It seems to continually add water
Funny, because I did not see a single trickle during the excavation...?
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The barn continues to fall in on itself
But I have no time to dismantle it right now
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We continue to whittle away at the place, constantly improving everything we can
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Even got my brother in law to paint the shed door!
That's dog-paw resistant epoxy. The canines of mine like to jump around scratching doors in an attempt to open them. THis should allow for that and keep the door looking fresh
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Still need to spray this mess...That is the well!
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As per usual, I added some more tools, a hand saw and longer level
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Next up, I punched some holes into the ground for the posts which will accomodate the new and wider gate. I'll be going from a 12 footer to a 16.
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The lumber yard closed and I was unable to get any quickcrete so the setting of the poles and bolting on of the gate will have to wait until the next time
CARREP:
THe 2720 was used to mow along side of the "Road."
It did not fare well
There is supposed to be a section of linkage here, but it got all buggered up
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And this darned guard keeps falling off and getting run over and bent
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With time running out, I located and stacked the last few rocks to complete the rough-scape steps. I will pour gravel around those so that they are "sticking out" of the hill side
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Those look rougher than hillary in the morning, but they sure do "walk" well!
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Those look rougher than hillary in the morning, but they sure do "walk" well!
Shots fired Ken, look out!!!! :popcorn:
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Those look better than Hillary and are probably smarter,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bet those will be nice when its muddy.
Door looks good as do the tanks. Do you want those out in the open like that or are the near power?
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Those look better than Hillary and are probably smarter,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bet those will be nice when its muddy.
Door looks good as do the tanks. Do you want those out in the open like that or are the near power?
Yes, Yes, Thanks, Yes, Yes
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Outside temp/humidity is making working nearly unbearable. Worked on the trusses again, down to only one remaining to finish!
Making some changes to the outhouse prior to taking that rascal down. It will move onto the hole the boys created pretty soon.
I seriously need to finish up some of these projects.
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I hear you there Don. Between the 100* temps for the past month and kids out of school I have got almost nothing done.
Kinda looking forward to school starting up.
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Serious progress there Don. Looks good. Working in heat just beats me to heck.
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Serious progress there Don. Looks good. Working in heat just beats me to heck.
Me too!
I am actually hoping to roll back the aging clock a decade or two with the positive effects of this new eating plan I am on. Already I feel a bit more energy. I need to get to full time hot/cold environment days to get the plan I have for that place worked out.
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Heat/humidity index is off the scales. Bad thing with that is that you can't cool yourself as your sweat won't evaporate very quickly. It's best to just avoid strenuous activity and turn on the indoor work until the temps abate somewhat.
TO that point, I finished the trusses today...Finally!
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Back to the out-house.
I only have a couple things to do to complete that.
First I installed panels to close in the space between the roof and the top plate, keeping bugs out is the concept there
Next, I constructed a vent with screen to fit the opening in the back wall
It still needs paint, but other than that it is ready to install
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After this I only have to rip out the warped plywood throne top and replace with this counter top. I will waterproof the living daylights out of it prior to installing
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Can't remember if I ever showed the chair frames I collected from Dad's house before we sold it.
I plan to finish them and make some cushions from cow hide and throw them into the shed living space
Dad hand made those from salvaged Chestnut that was brought up from the depths of Lake Erie where it sat for more than a hundred years!
One love seat and three chairs
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Those chairs are beauties!
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The man was a craftsman. Nice
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Noticed the wild ostridges visited again. Some people call them turkeys, but these are not. Turkeys are much smaller than these monsters.
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Started tearing out the gate pieces and installing the new one.
Going from a 10 or a 12 footer (???) to a 16 foot wide gate
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Discovered the new DeWalt Flex-Volt power tools from this site. I invested in a skil-saw and have to say, the thing works great. Loads of power
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I doubled up the posts on the non hinge side. Although I measured, when you finish cementing the 6" posts into a 8" augured hole some shifting can occur. As a result I had a bit of a gap on the chain side and decided to close that up. THe original post fit the bill quite well, thank you very much
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We added a nifty "Step" on the lock side which is beveled cut to hold the gate in the closed position. It supports all the weight from that end, so the future sagging should be at a minimum if at all
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The hinge side is now cross braced and the post is held in place with stones and three- 80 lb bags of concrete.
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It's Scout approved, sled dog inspected and in the bank, on to the next project.
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We still have to paint the thing, but for now it is done enough.
The next project is to install the roof trusses onto the pergola.
First up, though I had to straighten up some pretty warped posts/band boards!
So far, no nails and only screws have been used
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Then up go the trusses. Not a fast job, there is a lot of hard labor and measuring to make this come out right
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All of this goes up on top of the top plate:
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We set a line (String) to position the trusses exactly in line. The system along with our Mark-1 eyeballs provided for perfect alignment.
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With all trusses installed, we screwed on the 2 X 4 X 8 purlins.
After that we refuelled Sarge and holding a tic below heat stroke, called it a day, packed up and went home.
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Looking at it, I think I'll close in the dormer ends with OSB covered with cedar boards to hide the structure.
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Great work. The cedar will look good too.
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Man that looks good. Have you thought of stringing a steel cable with turnbuckles at a 45deg across the gate to support the long end when it's not resting on the step, i.e. during travel and resting opened?
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Man that looks good. Have you thought of stringing a steel cable with turnbuckles at a 45deg across the gate to support the long end when it's not resting on the step, i.e. during travel and resting opened?
Hmmm, no, sure haven't
I'll keep that in mind.
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Man that looks good. Have you thought of stringing a steel cable with turnbuckles at a 45deg across the gate to support the long end when it's not resting on the step, i.e. during travel and resting opened?
Being a welded steel tub gate; it's not to sag, except on the hinge pins. Not sure how you attach the far lower corner of the gate to the upper hinge pin with a cable and turnbuckle that doesn't bind on rotation.
I do know Don's probably got some cables left over from a tent structure he engineered awhile back .......
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You could always add the cable, sure won't welded or not it will sag.
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I've never seen a 16 footer that didn't sag. The gate might not give, but something does and they end up on the ground.
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THIS^^^^^^
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I agree it will sag.
The solution is a tall pole to tie the cable to with an eyelet at the top.
Then attach the other end to the far end of the gate.
Then you need to tie that pole to another and so on.
With the step-support you have it will eliminate the static closed sag.
You may want to add another in the open position.
Likely be the simplest solution.
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I agree that it may sag at the mounts, but the gate itself won't sag even if you jump on it.
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I think he is planning on having Bobby man the open gate. Parts of his duties will to be sure gate doesn't sag when in open position..... :popcorn:
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Talk about much-to-do about nothing!
^^^^These cluckin' hens have nothing better to do than to talk about my gate saggin'!
It's a friggin gate fer crap's sake!
Let it sag :wink:
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Talk about much-to-do about nothing!
^^^^These cluckin' hens have nothing better to do than to talk about my gate saggin'!
It's a friggin gate fer crap's sake!
Let it sag :wink:
:likebutton:
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Got my sheet metal all ordered
Locally there is a shop which actually manufacturers the stuff from rolls of steel. I got green 8' sheets coated, 40 year warranty, 29 gage full hard for $1.99 a running foot. The pieces are 36" wide including an overlap which has a built in anti-siphon groove.
Ordered 10-8' pieces, two 10' ridge caps, and 2-16' side pieces to finish the gable ends. Also purchased a big box of colored/gasket screws and was out the door at $205!!!
That's close to 1/2 the price of HD or Slowes
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I really want to put this project in the bank asap. I am missing all kinds of heavy rain that I could be collectin' in that 1500 gal storage tank.
That will be next. Get that leveled in on the slope just downhill from the shed, then run a 1" PEX line down to the two 330 gal water tanks feeding the camper.
With that alone I will go a long ways to solving the immediate water needs for cleaning, cooking, and construction, and other things that begin with "C"
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Talk about much-to-do about nothing!
^^^^These cluckin' hens have nothing better to do than to talk about my gate saggin'!
It's a friggin gate fer crap's sake!
Let it sag :wink:
I think everyone is worried the gate may go the way of that um one vehicle / parts bin. You know essentially the gate settling down into the ky mud & being lost for ever....
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Talk about much-to-do about nothing!
^^^^These cluckin' hens have nothing better to do than to talk about my gate saggin'!
It's a friggin gate fer crap's sake!
Let it sag :wink:
I think everyone is worried the gate may go the way of that um one vehicle / parts bin. You know essentially the gate settling down into the ky mud & being lost for ever....
Ah, copy that
No worries
Gate is surrounded by solid ground and is currently not destroyed by dust and dirt like that unmentioned other vehicle
Speaking of which, Man, I just can't win!
I scheduled this shop to come get the truck
Well, they didn't
So I called them to remind them
And after telling me they would call/come get it they did neither
So I am not necessarily obliged to move ahead with them, which puts me on the hunt for a good 6BT Cummins shop...
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Talk about much-to-do about nothing!
^^^^These cluckin' hens have nothing better to do than to talk about my gate saggin'!
It's a friggin gate fer crap's sake!
Let it sag :wink:
I think everyone is worried the gate may go the way of that um one vehicle / parts bin. You know essentially the gate settling down into the ky mud & being lost for ever....
Ah, copy that
No worries
Gate is surrounded by solid ground and is currently not destroyed by dust and dirt like that unmentioned other vehicle
Speaking of which, Man, I just can't win!
I scheduled this shop to come get the truck
Well, they didn't
So I called them to remind them
And after telling me they would call/come get it they did neither
So I am not necessarily obliged to move ahead with them, which puts me on the hunt for a good 6BT Cummins shop...
Or bring a good shop to the truck.... ie norm, phil, or swbhobie, or any other number of folks I'd venture. I think that swbhobie guy might be looking for work in mid ish august...
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I think Norm has access to some documents you might need too, just a thought..... :tongue:
:popcorn:
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Wasn't there a guy on here with a bunch of Cummins training and certs? How close is he to KY? We need to get this figured out so we can get back to the sagging gate.
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Tlane he was from In or Ky I thought
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Wasn't there a guy on here with a bunch of Cummins training and certs? How close is he to KY? We need to get this figured out so we can get back to the sagging gate.
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This ^^^^.
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Wasn't there a guy on here with a bunch of Cummins training and certs? How close is he to KY? We need to get this figured out so we can get back to the sagging gate.
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Tlane3546 the guy?
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Pretty sure that's him
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Yeah that's him.
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Why would you leave the ends open? You have plenty of cedar bark cuttings to make some good looking gable ends
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Just no need to close it in Dave, its a trellis. It will only have half walls of those huge stones, the rest will be a breezeway
Yep sounds about right lol
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Why would you leave the ends open? You have plenty of cedar bark cuttings to make some good looking gable ends
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Just no need to close it in Dave, its a trellis. It will only have half walls of those huge stones, the rest will be a breezeway
Yep sounds about right lol
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OK, OK
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Sitting on a saggy gate :popcorn: that is held open with a dusty dodge.
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Sheet metal for the roof is all cut and awaiting my pickup. Hopefully early in the week, I can get that installed...
Starting to think out the rain water collection system. If I can get the tank placed on a leveled spot, get a valve on the bottom, and the roof gutter system up and hooked to the tank, I think that would be good for awhile. At least I would be collecting the water. Later on I could run the lines. I plan on one multi-function ditch to house the 1" PEX water supply line, a 3/4" electril conduit with a 12-3 wire, and a 2" electrical conduit line for future growth. I'll install the thing underground with a steel cable in it, then pull lines through whenever I need to grow. I see a power supply to the dome/greenhouse I plan to build. And a 30 amp RV plug for a guest RV, a line to feed power from a more remote solar panel array, and a power out cable going down a thousand feet to the well.
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Don, how big of a storage tank do you have next to your pergola?
I ask because a roof tends to catch more than anticipated.
1" of rain on 1000 sqft produces over 600 gallons.
http://www.calctool.org/CALC/other/default/rainfall
This is just one calculator I found. Should give you an idea of what to expect to catch, and possibly over flow.
Just figured I'd throw this out there because we had a 330 gal tank at our GA house, and it will fill in short order from about 1000 sqft of roof.
Obviosuly everything you have at the hide would take a minute to fill, but I'm talking just the one tank at the structure, which looking back in your posts, appears to be 320 sqft.
That 320 sqft will produce 199 gallons with an inch of rain.
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Don, how big of a storage tank do you have next to your pergola?
I ask because a roof tends to catch more than anticipated.
1" of rain on 1000 sqft produces over 600 gallons.
http://www.calctool.org/CALC/other/default/rainfall
This is just one calculator I found. Should give you an idea of what to expect to catch, and possibly over flow.
Just figured I'd throw this out there because we had a 330 gal tank at our GA house, and it will fill in short order from about 1000 sqft of roof.
Obviosuly everything you have at the hide would take a minute to fill, but I'm talking just the one tank at the structure, which looking back in your posts, appears to be 320 sqft.
That 320 sqft will produce 199 gallons with an inch of rain.
T,
That is both helpful and informative!
The shed is 16 X 32 which equals 512 ft/sq
The collection tank for that building is 1550 gal capacity.
I plan to collect the water from the pergola roof as well, and that will feed into a single 330 gallon tank which will be used for utility purposes and perhaps some watering chores.
Whatever vents is just going to be returned to nature. The camper based living would then have over 2200 gallons to live from backed up by the 330 utility and then the twon 3,000 gal tanks well-side. And of course the pond
Speaking of pondage, I am developing an excavation layout for the PTCC (Pond to come concept) This new one will be around 10 times the size of the current excavation. My brother in law wants to enlarge it to the point where it is a pretty good sized swimming hole for the kiddies.
I want to raise Koi, which I used to raise. My fish back in the day cost $300-$1.200 each, I had 70. To sell them, if I start with Japanese only from some monasteries I know of over there, I would be selling 1.5 year old fish for approx $50 ea. wholesale, and triple that to the public.
I want to build in some ways to have the farm produce money and that is one way I thought of a long time ago. Part of this enlarged pond would be screened off to accommodate breeding those colorful carp.
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Water isn't going to be a problem, once I get all the infrastructure in to manage it.
With this project, I always have 4-5 projects up in the air at a time. I can be researching some, acquiring parts for others, actively working on still more and closing the deal on one. I have been planning out the solar power plan for a grid tied then off grid system.
Reason is when you have the ditches opened up, it is time to plant hoses, pipes, conduit, wires, and the like. With respect to the solar power that simple 2" conduit will see me through project completion with the big flat panels I am looking at. But continue to see a lot of jumping around on these projects and I strive to weave them all together in some way that someday will make sense.
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Cool, my thought and the reason brought it up is its proximity to the camper and the possibility of it becoming unlevel or just sinking away into the Tucky muck. Looks like it'll work real well and a solid quantity of water.
Now koi, that's insane I'd never have thought fish would be that expensive. All I ever think about with raising fish is to eat them! However carp, not so much.... don't think they'd taste any better if they were purdified with orange and white!
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Not sure I'd use steel cable for your pull cable Don... it doesn't have any give.. just one reason utility companies use mule tape.
The carp thing sounds interesting
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Yes, don't use steel cable for pulling.
1/4 or 3/8 rope would be better, or mule tape if you can source it.
1000 foot power run will require a lot of oversizing for voltage drop, portable generator may be better option, given the price of copper these days.
Don't rule out a second conduit for electrical.
Depending on solar size you're looking at, it should be in its own pipe.
Having another down may or may not be needed, don't know your plans for certain.
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Plus cable will chaff the line that is in there. I think 12-3 is pretty small for that run also.
I saw the pic of the well a few posts ago, looks grown over some. What is the status of that? Also wouldn't it be a good idea to put something around that big ol hole?
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Definately JR. In 1000' it would cut through the pcv like butter.
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I'll jus leave these here
http://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/nec%20ampacities.pdf
http://www.cerrowire.com/voltage-drop-table
http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm
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I'll jus leave these here
http://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/nec%20ampacities.pdf
http://www.cerrowire.com/voltage-drop-table
http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm
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Chief...
Use these...
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Ok, let me clarify a couple of things here
Saying cable was speaking generically, should have said rope. I have some 3/4 nylon or poly, or whatever that is they used to pull the really big wire up to the shed through the buried conduit.
Secondly, the 12-3 wire is only running maybe 30 feet. The thousand foot run would be a different wire, hadn't even thought about that yet. Off hand I'd say a 10 ga or maybe a #8, but maybe there is a better way to do this.
The solar system I plan for the well alone with some expansion could run everything I need down there. Initially, I just want to run a panel, to a voltage controller directly to the well pump. But I could easily expand that up 3-4 panels (280-310 watt ea.) then to a bank of 6 volt batteries, through an inverter and run a 110Vac pump right there pushing water up to the camper/shed location.
As for the well: It is currently overgrown.
Step 1 of that process is round up. Next I'll carefully pull off the ground level ring of stones and excavate a ring maybe 4" deep around it. I'll pour that in concrete, then come up from there with several courses of cinder blocks.
I'l erect an "A"-frame over the well to suspend the mechanicals from and then build a small shed like structure around that. The 3K storage tanks will live outside the building and that will be that. Later on I'll excavate a trench from there to the shed area and bury the conduit and pex or poly water line.
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Continuing to press ahead, although the work is tough this time of year.
The humidity is what does it. It severely inhibits your body's natural heat control system. Sweat just accumulates and does not evaporate. Honestly, one can only work for maybe 30 min-an hour before you must take a shady cool rest break.
Having said that, we began putting metal on the roof.
First up were the 2X6 fascia boards
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Then the first "guide" piece of metal, followed by all the rest
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We managed to get one side pretty much done except for the last piece which needs to be ripped. Today, hopefully we will get the other side done and the trim up and be able to move onto the rain collection tank
I am developing a comprehensive plan for that tank and room.
Plan is to add an extension onto the shed with a shed roof extending out from the south wall. Inside will be the 1550 gallon water tank and distribution lines. I now also plan to locate the 5KW emergency generator in there, along with the bank of 6 volt deep cycle batteries and an electrical control panel. On top of the shed roof will fit several 280-310 watt solar cells, and this will be my first move toward being electrically and water independent of the outside world.
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Looking Really good there Don. Too bad you couldn't keep the center beam and gable ends complete round logs. I just love that look, but ya know, PNW guy. You've really got a modern version of Dick Proenneke's "One Man's Wilderness" going on here.
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Don't use roundup Don. Just take a big weed burner torch and burn around the well. It will all die. Stay chem free as much as you can
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Don't use roundup Don. Just take a big weed burner torch and burn around the well. It will all die. Stay chem free as much as you can
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Along those lines, when you start getting the regrowth after burning, spray till wet with a heavy rate of bleach in water. Cover the area with black plastic or heavy tarp material until you get the pad poured around it.
As long as you can protect the opening of the well, you could treat the adjacent area with glyphosate (round-up) as it ties up readily in the soil and breaks down very fast and would not create any problems for the well. Just be sure to stay back away from the well by whatever the distance the label calls for.
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Vinegar is an effective weed killer too.
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Looks good but the pics are too small to see detail.
Co I use just had 325w solar panels for under $200, killer deal!
Will it be a diesel gen?
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Vinegar is an effective weed killer too.
Just throw it in a pump sprayer and have at it? does it just kill everything?
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Vinegar is an effective weed killer too.
Just throw it in a pump sprayer and have at it? does it just kill everything?
Tate, what is the target, and where are you trying for control?
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PM'd as not to junk up Chief's thread more than I usually do.
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PM'd as not to junk up Chief's thread more than I usually do.
^^^ Unheard of!
What is this?
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Don't use roundup Don. Just take a big weed burner torch and burn around the well. It will all die. Stay chem free as much as you can
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OK, weed burner...On the purchase list
However, Just sprayed the roundup all over the place, but not within 500 feet of the well, should be GTG
BTW, certain US agencies spray roundup on coca crops in S. America in and around villages to kill the stuff that us used to make Cocaine. We tried to use in in Afghanistan to kill the poppy, but turns out there wasn't enough PU in the world to kill the poppy and marijuana grown there. That and Karzai who's brother was the main exporter (with US knowledge) of Heroine wouldn't authorize us to spray it. Turns out is is a better idea to let US Marines get blown to bits by IED's than run down a valley with an OV-10 and spray the stuff from the air
Makes sense if you don't think, or care about Marines...
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Hmmm, DOT'in up myself...
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OK, let me get to the other bonehead suggestions here, then on to the actual work...
Vinegar/sprayer...OK, I'll try it
Wilderness thing: Well, yea, kind of the idea. Getting closer and mor-betterer with every visit. Goal remains to be completely self sufficient and off grid for everything at some point...And be defendable, bu a large family sized unit.
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OK, back from another couple days of experimenting with heat stroke. Good news is I survived to fight another day. More good news is that I got a bunch of stuff done. Even more good news is no carnage, well, not very mech to speak of. No ambulance calls, no police involvement, no future court dates, but I have this pesky deer which seems to want to challenge me.
Weird, I'm stand there with a 12 gage and this big doe is snorting at me and stomping her hooves trying to get me to leave. That usually means the fawn is sun bathing nearby, but I think when I am there I am actually invading her space. Well her and this ostrich! In the grassy field all around my camper I can see where something deer sized has been sleepin'. When I'm there the dogs don't care for uninvited guests, so the deer has to hang out with the coyotes, and word on the street is they are not compatible. Kinda like gays in the military, like that, or common sense and congressmen, or promises and republicans, stuff like that...
Then this ostrich just comes out and wanders about my fields during the day and pays, like no attention to my dogs. I tell you, I have never seen a turkey this gib. It stands easily as tall as the doe, and she is no slouch. I guess, I'll just let them work things out and hope to arrive at some point of balance some day. That balance point may be me chewin' on a cordon bleu made of deer and turkey, dunno, but for now, we'll just continue to have conversations and see what shakes out.
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I used the 12 gage to trim up those hard to reach corner pieces and sent coyotes runnin' for the hills (or hollars).
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So working in the very late afternoon, I was able to keep my body at Rare to medium, some pink still showing, and wrestle those panels into place. We finished the night with my just setting the peak piece in place
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Overall the fit is within standards, albeit, in perfect harmony with my inner spirit, "mostly right, but not completely."
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Here is the spot of my coming attention, where the engineering spaces will become spaces. Where water and electricity, and maybe gas fumes as well, will soon reside in perfect harmony. I won't forget to sandbag the whole thing so the blast is contained, so don't worry!
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The next morning, it was not cool and shady, but we gutted it out anyway and punched out the roof metal
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I then installed some metal tabs to mo-better wind proof this big wing I just tempted mother nature with
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True to my desire to always improve my werkin-abilitiee, I added the chalk line and estwing rock hammer, and a couple other things which I forgot about just after drinkin' this smooth eight o'clock quoffee
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If nothing else all this stuff adds color...Like man cave art
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Next, I reinstalled that bent up tractor part, and guess what? The uppin and downin' lever now raises and lowers the three point and belly mount higher and lower. Makes me wonder if it was ever installed correctly until just now???
And remember those pesky belt guarde that are always falling off and gettin' runned over? Well, I nutted them in place with some Kintucky torque and was off to the races!
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Oh yea, I added this thing for some reason...
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^^^ That thing right there will mill a layer of skin off your right knee with every turn. I had to quit mowin' when I exceeeded the maximum millable depth of my eppy-dermis. But before that, I got the grass cut!
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Yea, the old house is comin' down soon...
I had 30+ tons of #57 gravel hauled in because I had too much money in my bank account, and there is no faster way other than outright burning your cash, than to have materials hauled in!
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I think I'd like to buy one of those things.
Man charges me $100 per load to haul the stuff in.
Gravel itself is practically free. Just dollars per ton.
Iffins I bought a truck, I could just pay for it out of the fees I pay for having it hauled.
Secondly every time someone delivers something, someone else gets to see the place and say, "Wow, I had no idea anything like this was back here!" Of course what you don't hear is what is going on in their mind, "Can't wait to tell all my buddies about this, looks like this boy has loads of money...I wonder if Jonny is out of prison yet, he'd love to know about this..."
So, anyway, I started to spread it around my "Staircase" and some other places
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I was moving gravel beneath the pergola, leveling that up, when this moved in:
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I did manage to install a new higher capacity chem pump onto the sprayer, and kill a bunch of useless weeds
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And get a bit of cleaning and maintenance done on the little tractor loader
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Roof looks good and those straps will save you some headaches.
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Lookin good!
Hey, why not just get a large dump trailer? More trips, but more versatile too maybe? You can get a 14k Gross (10k payload) bumper pull (http://www.bigtextrailers.com/14lx-tandem-axle-low-profile-extra-wide-dump/)... that's a decent amount of gravel. Could use it to move material around your property too, like run your chipper chute right into it and then haul directly to where you want it spread. Can stack logs in them too, and then dump right at your mill.
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This^^^^^^
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I am surprised with all he has that is not sitting there already.
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My dad and I share a much smaller version (7k gross)... and we use it ALL THE TIME. Hauling mulch, dump runs, firewood, lumber, blah blah blah. We had a 10k gross version, but was a bit much for dad's half ton so we down-sized. C-Max could handle the 14k model in the rural 'Tuk just fine me thinks. They make gooseneck verisons, but figured you'd want to stick with your pintle hitch due to the canopy
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Dump trailer, way better than a dump truck. I have the 14,000lb and it gets used all the time. Less maintenance cost for the normal person maybe not Don. If you are dumping lots in a day, you might need another battery but for normal use one does the job.
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I had a couple different dump trailers, my favorite was a bri-mar built unit. By far the best quality & I've owned two big Tex trailers which were quality just not equal to bri-mar imo
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Dump trailer is a good idea when you factor in the cost of maintenance on a dump truck (even a small one), along with the possible need for CDL and the higher registration costs... though he could probably register it as a farm vehicle...??
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I had a couple different dump trailers, my favorite was a bri-mar built unit. By far the best quality & I've owned two big Tex trailers which were quality just not equal to bri-mar imo
I don't doubt bri-mar is better. I just have had Big Tex's so that's what i'm familiar with. Load Trail is a nicely built trailer too from my understanding
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I had a couple different dump trailers, my favorite was a bri-mar built unit. By far the best quality & I've owned two big Tex trailers which were quality just not equal to bri-mar imo
I don't doubt bri-mar is better. I just have had Big Tex's so that's what i'm familiar with. Load Trail is a nicely built trailer too from my understanding
My father in law had a load n trail & he liked it.
If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
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My dump trailer is an ABU, it has a heavy duty lift system which helps on uneven ground. Mine is only 6ft wide inside, just a couple inches too narrow to haul my jeep around. It is wide enough for the Kubota tractor. Many good brands out there, but some not so good so look them over good.
Stake pockets on the dump trailers allow for many different side heights and heavy duty bull rings welded into the floor allows good tie down points. Barn doors are ok but if you can get a combination door set up it is much better including the ability to spread gravel and dirt.
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I had a couple different dump trailers, my favorite was a bri-mar built unit. By far the best quality & I've owned two big Tex trailers which were quality just not equal to bri-mar imo
I don't doubt bri-mar is better. I just have had Big Tex's so that's what i'm familiar with. Load Trail is a nicely built trailer too from my understanding
My father in law had a load n trail & he liked it.
If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
^THIS would serve Big D very well me thinks as well.
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If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
That would depend on where he plans to head with a farm. There are some things a tractor would be nice for. A skidsteer would definitely handle the type of loader work Don is trying to do better.
I would probably keep the bigger of the tractors to use for "field" type work. Sell Sarge. Chief can handle the majority of the jobs Sarge would be used for and a bigger skid steer can handle the loader work.
I honestly think Don would get far more productive use out of a good skidsteer then the rest of the equipment combined.
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Agreed.
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I had a couple different dump trailers, my favorite was a bri-mar built unit. By far the best quality & I've owned two big Tex trailers which were quality just not equal to bri-mar imo
I don't doubt bri-mar is better. I just have had Big Tex's so that's what i'm familiar with. Load Trail is a nicely built trailer too from my understanding
My father in law had a load n trail & he liked it.
If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
^THIS would serve Big D very well me thinks as well.
Honestly, he has an excavator now. Say so long to Sarge too or maybe trade it for a small dozer.....
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Talk about from all sides,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Dump trailer, way better than a dump truck. I have the 14,000lb and it gets used all the time. Less maintenance cost for the normal person maybe not Don. If you are dumping lots in a day, you might need another battery but for normal use one does the job.
For farm side use he could probably pull the trailer around with the larger of his tractors. With a couple custom hoses and maybe a couple valves he could probably dump using the tractor hydraulics. Would allow him to run all day and dump from the seat easy.
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Well Don, looks like the jury is in. You have to get a skidsteer and a dump trailer (been looking at dumpers for a couple months myself).
...oh...how's that sagging gate? :pokeD
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Well Don, looks like the jury is in. You have to get a skidsteer and a dump trailer (been looking at dumpers for a couple months myself).
...oh...how's that sagging gate? :pokeD
Just like H's sagging er uh Everything!!!
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If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
That would depend on where he plans to head with a farm. There are some things a tractor would be nice for. A skidsteer would definitely handle the type of loader work Don is trying to do better.
I would probably keep the bigger of the tractors to use for "field" type work. Sell Sarge. Chief can handle the majority of the jobs Sarge would be used for and a bigger skid steer can handle the loader work.
I honestly think Don would get far more productive use out of a good skidsteer then the rest of the equipment combined.
I have been eyeing a good skidsteer. I keep going to the 100 HP range and the Cat all terrain or the ASV unit. Very high ground clearance. I could see me having a tooth bucket and something like a FECON forest murderin' device...But that is down the road some.
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Funny how all this talk of a dump trailer suddenly cropped up...
I am looking at this little gem
2004 Sterling, 45,300 miles Cat 3126 175 HP engine (Same as LMTV) Allison 6-speed, AC, PDL, PW, Air seat, interior is in great shape, very low miles and on and on. Asking $22K
Haven't made any decisions, but I do know I have about 200 loads of gravel and rock required on site at the moment. That number will vary with how I go about solving problems.
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Don, something to keep in mind when looking at skidloaders. Make sure they have a lift rating of over 2k imo. Also I rented a fancy new cat skiloader on rubber tracks. I have run many different brands and owned two. The process to make the bucket float on this CAT flat out sucked. It's always been an easy process & for whatever reason they made this CAT unit very difficult to engage the float position on the bucket. Something to keep in mind as you will use that a lot grading drives and fill etc.
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Oh, has a GVW of 42,000 so easily 13-14 tons per load
Three loads a day saves me $100 of costs, of which I'd probably have used maybe $50 of fuel, and set back for tires and oil change. Add in $100/month for insurance and tags
Do that 2 times per week on average and cost savings are at $500 per week, times 4 = $2000 a month - $100 for insurance and let's say another $200 for additional maintenance and I am getting the same material for $1,700 less a month.
Let's say I do that six months out of the year.
$1,700 X 6 = $10,200 savings per year.
In three years all 200 loads have been trucked in
I would have saved $30,600
I paid $22K for it so I made $8,600
I sell it in the fourth year for $13,000 (Or possibly more)
I would be $21,600 ahead of if I had just paid for material being hauled in
Essentially I would have gotten the truck for free and paid something between $5-10K on the gravel
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Don, something to keep in mind when looking at skidloaders. Make sure they have a lift rating of over 2k imo. Also I rented a fancy new cat skiloader on rubber tracks. I have run many different brands and owned two. The process to make the bucket float on this CAT flat out sucked. It's always been an easy process & for whatever reason they made this CAT unit very difficult to engage the float position on the bucket. Something to keep in mind as you will use that a lot grading drives and fill etc.
It's way out in the future I think...Depending on what I could sell Sarge for. Realistically a 1976 track loader isn't going to bring more than 15K and likely closer to 10K
With just getting 10K out of that cool machine against a used ASV at $30K, I wouldn't be interested in trading. I am still not made of money so I have to cherry pick at the moment
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Oh and no CDL required in Kentucky if you own a farm and the truck is for your use at the farm...Cool!
I love freedom...
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If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
That would depend on where he plans to head with a farm. There are some things a tractor would be nice for. A skidsteer would definitely handle the type of loader work Don is trying to do better.
I would probably keep the bigger of the tractors to use for "field" type work. Sell Sarge. Chief can handle the majority of the jobs Sarge would be used for and a bigger skid steer can handle the loader work.
I honestly think Don would get far more productive use out of a good skidsteer then the rest of the equipment combined.
In building the pond I found a situation where an Excavator and a loader work very well together.
I can dig out an area and swing it over into a pile. Then using Sarge, I can maneuver out on that rather tall, and sorta skinny berm which impounds the water. Sarge does a good job of tracking in the mess at nearly 30,000 pounds it turns loose clay into stone in an hour or so. It is working well so far, and I wouldn't dare drive Chief out onto that berm until I get it maybe five feet wider which it is going to get.
I think I would love to use a tracked skid steer, and will own one someday, but for now the chief/sarge combo works, unlike the Armee where sergeants always argue with Warrant Officers who seldom ever listen to the noise the sergeants make, and little if anything ever gets done!
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Just remember that every good and smart soldier (including the wo/cwo ranks..... :grin:) always listens to their PSG......
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If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
That would depend on where he plans to head with a farm. There are some things a tractor would be nice for. A skidsteer would definitely handle the type of loader work Don is trying to do better.
I would probably keep the bigger of the tractors to use for "field" type work. Sell Sarge. Chief can handle the majority of the jobs Sarge would be used for and a bigger skid steer can handle the loader work.
I honestly think Don would get far more productive use out of a good skidsteer then the rest of the equipment combined.
In building the pond I found a situation where an Excavator and a loader work very well together.
I can dig out an area and swing it over into a pile. Then using Sarge, I can maneuver out on that rather tall, and sorta skinny berm which impounds the water. Sarge does a good job of tracking in the mess at nearly 30,000 pounds it turns loose clay into stone in an hour or so. It is working well so far, and I wouldn't dare drive Chief out onto that berm until I get it maybe five feet wider which it is going to get.
I think I would love to use a tracked skid steer, and will own one someday, but for now the chief/sarge combo works, unlike the Armee where sergeants always argue with Warrant Officers who seldom ever listen to the noise the sergeants make, and little if anything ever gets done!
FYI: I buried that tracked CAT in clay, I dug myself out. However, owning wheeled skid loaders with steel tracks is still the best imo. Also those tracked skid loaders go no where when it snows......
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If it were me I would trade those lawn mowers with loaders, & that low deck trailer in for a good size enclosed skid loader w/ AC & attachments & a big dump with ramps. But that's just me....
That would depend on where he plans to head with a farm. There are some things a tractor would be nice for. A skidsteer would definitely handle the type of loader work Don is trying to do better.
I would probably keep the bigger of the tractors to use for "field" type work. Sell Sarge. Chief can handle the majority of the jobs Sarge would be used for and a bigger skid steer can handle the loader work.
I honestly think Don would get far more productive use out of a good skidsteer then the rest of the equipment combined.
In building the pond I found a situation where an Excavator and a loader work very well together.
I can dig out an area and swing it over into a pile. Then using Sarge, I can maneuver out on that rather tall, and sorta skinny berm which impounds the water. Sarge does a good job of tracking in the mess at nearly 30,000 pounds it turns loose clay into stone in an hour or so. It is working well so far, and I wouldn't dare drive Chief out onto that berm until I get it maybe five feet wider which it is going to get.
I think I would love to use a tracked skid steer, and will own one someday, but for now the chief/sarge combo works, unlike the Armee where sergeants always argue with Warrant Officers who seldom ever listen to the noise the sergeants make, and little if anything ever gets done!
FYI: I buried that tracked CAT in clay, I dug myself out. However, owning wheeled skid loaders with steel tracks is still the best imo. Also those tracked skid loaders go no where when it snows......
This one does:
Tracked ASV's. Check them out
Real suspension and they can be fitted with a special track for deep mud and snow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ko91vMjUClQ
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:likebutton:
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What makes the "farm" a farm legally speaking? As far as I can tell you don't have any crops or livestock?
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If you are planning on bringing in a bunch of gravel I would pick up a skidsteer sooner then later. Skidsteers are built for that type of work. Compact tractors with front end loader are not. You will save a lot of wear and tear as well as time with a skid steer. It doesn't need to be a super fancy tracked one. You have 4 wheel drive tractors for the off road stuff.
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Am I too late to help Chief spend his money? The dump truck makes sense if you have that much gravel to haul but there are a lot less expensive options out there. Maybe not if you require a/c though. Thing to remember with those types of truck is the longer they sit without being used the more they cost every time you start it. Buy it, use it for what you need it for, then get rid of it.
Also, I'm sure the gate is on the ground by now.
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Id probably stick with a dump trailer. More useful longterm and less maintenance.
https://sleequipment.com/7-x-16-heavy-duty-dump-trailer.html?fee=8&fep=524826&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O6UIOf0U_dgmLYM8NRUMdh4aG8Z5YDIV4hz5QRRm5Bv1WlhouvyB20aAg1LEALw_wcB#product_tabs_additional_tabbed
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How's he going to pull a gooseneck Tex?
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What makes the "farm" a farm legally speaking? As far as I can tell you don't have any crops or livestock?
In the KY, has to be 10 acres or more, and you need to file a form F with your taxes annually.
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Am I too late to help Chief spend his money? The dump truck makes sense if you have that much gravel to haul but there are a lot less expensive options out there. Maybe not if you require a/c though. Thing to remember with those types of truck is the longer they sit without being used the more they cost every time you start it. Buy it, use it for what you need it for, then get rid of it.
Also, I'm sure the gate is on the ground by now.
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Gate hasn't changed!
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Id probably stick with a dump trailer. More useful longterm and less maintenance.
https://sleequipment.com/7-x-16-heavy-duty-dump-trailer.html?fee=8&fep=524826&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O6UIOf0U_dgmLYM8NRUMdh4aG8Z5YDIV4hz5QRRm5Bv1WlhouvyB20aAg1LEALw_wcB#product_tabs_additional_tabbed
The one thing I like about a goose neck, is that I would need to buy a dually to tow it ;-)))
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I just visited the ole DF forum for giggles. Heck, I didn't even know that the new Dmax engine finally came out...the L5P...with 910 ft lbs! There you go, I just spent the rest of your money.
Oh, your "My Build thread" is still one of the top viewed threads at 1.6 million, and square d is almost 1 million views. (more useless info)
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ryan, once Don gets SqD running he can remove the topper on the CMax and install a GN hitch and bags......
For once, I'm thinking positively Don.
https://youtu.be/qztuEucrNBc
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Id probably stick with a dump trailer. More useful longterm and less maintenance.
https://sleequipment.com/7-x-16-heavy-duty-dump-trailer.html?fee=8&fep=524826&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O6UIOf0U_dgmLYM8NRUMdh4aG8Z5YDIV4hz5QRRm5Bv1WlhouvyB20aAg1LEALw_wcB#product_tabs_additional_tabbed
The one thing I like about a goose neck, is that I would need to buy a dually to tow it ;-)))
Wrong.......
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What makes the "farm" a farm legally speaking? As far as I can tell you don't have any crops or livestock?
In the KY, has to be 10 acres or more, and you need to file a form F with your taxes annually.
Without knowing ky laws I would guess that allows you to plate that dump truck with farm plates. It doesn't make it legal for you to drive it down the road without a CDL. In Wisconsin at the age of 12 you can take a tractor safety course that allows you to drive an "impliment of husbandry" on or off the road. That means you can drive a tractor, atv, truck, etc. for farm purposes. It isn't legal for anybody to just jump on the tractor and take it in to town to get groceries. The important part is that it is for farm purposes.
That 12 yr old with a tractor safety certificate is technically legal to drive a semi tractor pulling a grain trailer from a field to the farm also. They are not legal to pull that same load to the mill to dump the grain though. That trip requires a CDL. I'm not sure what exactly the verbage of the law is that states that.
I would just make sure you fully understand the laws for your area before you buy a dump truck. I'm sure you could make a few trips without a problem, but with how many you are talking about eventually you are going to draw somebody's attention and you aren't going to be able to play stupid.
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Bear, this is the state I remind you that allows trailers to be on the road without working tail lights legally......
Right, wrong or otherwise this is the tuck & why the states that boarder it refer to those flapping unsecured blue trailer tarps as Ky flags!
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Those exemptions are often referred to as agrarian purpose.
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I'm going to agree with the Skid steer idea, plus with attachments it should make your jobs on the farm alot easier.
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Speaking of the truck that is being turned back to earth due to time, did you figure out a way to get someone to get to run right for ya? So you don't have to fight with it...
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What makes the "farm" a farm legally speaking? As far as I can tell you don't have any crops or livestock?
In the KY, has to be 10 acres or more, and you need to file a form F with your taxes annually.
Without knowing ky laws I would guess that allows you to plate that dump truck with farm plates. It doesn't make it legal for you to drive it down the road without a CDL. In Wisconsin at the age of 12 you can take a tractor safety course that allows you to drive an "impliment of husbandry" on or off the road. That means you can drive a tractor, atv, truck, etc. for farm purposes. It isn't legal for anybody to just jump on the tractor and take it in to town to get groceries. The important part is that it is for farm purposes.
That 12 yr old with a tractor safety certificate is technically legal to drive a semi tractor pulling a grain trailer from a field to the farm also. They are not legal to pull that same load to the mill to dump the grain though. That trip requires a CDL. I'm not sure what exactly the verbage of the law is that states that.
I would just make sure you fully understand the laws for your area before you buy a dump truck. I'm sure you could make a few trips without a problem, but with how many you are talking about eventually you are going to draw somebody's attention and you aren't going to be able to play stupid.
No,
A farmer operating a vehicle requiring a CDL for farming purposes of his farm does not require a CDL in the state of KY
KSP:
DRIVER TESTING BRANCH CDL FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
This page features a number of common frequently asked questions we receive at the Kentucky State Police Driver Testing Branch. If you have a question and cannot find the answer to it on this page, please feel free to contact us for the answer by clicking here.
Q. Do I need a CDL?
A.
If the manufacturer's weight rating (GVWR/GCWR) of your power unit is 26,001 pounds or greater and you pull something 10,001 or greater you need a class "A" CDL.
If the manufacturer's weight rating (GVWR) of your single vehicle is 26,001 pounds or greater you need a class "B" CDL.
If your vehicle is designed to carry 16 or more persons to include the driver, that meets neither the definition of a group A or group B vehicle, You need a class "C" CDL.
Does your vehicle carry placarded hazardous materials? If the answer is yes you need a class "C" CDL. This applies to a vehicle with a manufacturer's weight rating that is less than 26,001 pounds. Any single vehicle having a GVWR over 26,001 would require a class "B" license, a class "A" would be required if you attach a trailer with a GVWR greater than 10,000 lbs. A class "C" CDL for example would be required for a car transporting medical oxygen cylinders for home deliveries because it would be required to be placarded.
Q. Do farmers need a CDL to operate a vehicle 26,001 pounds or greater pulling something 10,001 pounds or greater? Or driving a vehicle 26,001 pounds or greater with no trailer?
A. No, not as long as the use is inside the Commonwealth of Kentucky or is within 150 miles of your farm if you have entered another state and the use is farm related.
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Speaking of the truck that is being turned back to earth due to time, did you figure out a way to get someone to get to run right for ya? So you don't have to fight with it...
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No,
And I will never work to give away my money
If a shop tells me something like they will call or come and gives me a date like this week, or next wednesday for sure...And they do not meet their own commitment, I am done with them...Breach of integrity in keeping their word
Translates like this to me, "Sir we replaced the bearings." Truth: they tuned the thing and wiped the grease off the screw heads. Loss of trust is hard to regain.
I don't care if it takes ten years I'll find the right person or sit on it.
If we can verify Tex or someone else is having panic attacks over this, I'll try and move a bit quicker
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Speaking of the truck that is being turned back to earth due to time, did you figure out a way to get someone to get to run right for ya? So you don't have to fight with it...
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No,
And I will never work to give away my money
If a shop tells me something like they will call or come and gives me a date like this week, or next wednesday for sure...And they do not meet their own commitment, I am done with them...Breach of integrity in keeping their word
Translates like this to me, "Sir we replaced the bearings." Truth: they tuned the thing and wiped the grease off the screw heads. Loss of trust is hard to regain.
I don't care if it takes ten years I'll find the right person or sit on it.
If we can verify Tex or someone else is having panic attacks over this, I'll try and move a bit quicker
Never expected that shop to get your business after dropping the ball.
I was hoping for a different shop or maybe you found someone, most likely on here, that you could bring to the truck....
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Bear, this is the state I remind you that allows trailers to be on the road without working tail lights legally......
Right, wrong or otherwise this is the tuck & why the states that boarder it refer to those flapping unsecured blue trailer tarps as Ky flags!
Say what you will, but the truth is that we enjoy far less government oversight and control, which in effect makes us freer. So yea, that blue tarp may come loose from the trailer in front of me, wrap around my windshield and cause me to drive over a thousand foot cliff. But given that, I prefer that freedom over some kid in a uniform who doesn't like me because of the 101st decal in my rear window pulling me over to stress test the zip ties on my shoelaces to see if they meet government specification.
We say it often. stay where you are if you like what you see. We chose too!
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Just got back from looking over a "Big Tex" 14,000 lb, 14 foot dump trailer.
I must say, those are impressive.
Quoted me $7,000 + tax
I wanted a solar charger, spare tire, ramps, and a pintle/lunette ring
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Bear, this is the state I remind you that allows trailers to be on the road without working tail lights legally......
Right, wrong or otherwise this is the tuck & why the states that boarder it refer to those flapping unsecured blue trailer tarps as Ky flags!
Say what you will, but the truth is that we enjoy far less government oversight and control, which in effect makes us freer. So yea, that blue tarp may come loose from the trailer in front of me, wrap around my windshield and cause me to drive over a thousand foot cliff. But given that, I prefer that freedom over some kid in a uniform who doesn't like me because of the 101st decal in my rear window pulling me over to stress test the zip ties on my shoelaces to see if they meet government specification.
We say it often. stay where you are if you like what you see. We chose too!
I was just trying to give bear a little insight into the Tuck, no offense intended. Stay away from flapping blue tarps & cliffs, copy! :wink:
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no panic attack yet. I am, however having a hard time lifting my arms above my head. Driving t posts with a manual post driver in soil that is about as hard as concrete is no bueno.....
I am however, just barely able to lift my budweiser to my lips....so all is good
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Wow that was a whole lot of sales on a tractor and a dump trailer that non of y'all boys are getting a kick back on. Any of you guys in sales
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Bear, this is the state I remind you that allows trailers to be on the road without working tail lights legally......
Right, wrong or otherwise this is the tuck & why the states that boarder it refer to those flapping unsecured blue trailer tarps as Ky flags!
Say what you will, but the truth is that we enjoy far less government oversight and control, which in effect makes us freer. So yea, that blue tarp may come loose from the trailer in front of me, wrap around my windshield and cause me to drive over a thousand foot cliff. But given that, I prefer that freedom over some kid in a uniform who doesn't like me because of the 101st decal in my rear window pulling me over to stress test the zip ties on my shoelaces to see if they meet government specification.
We say it often. stay where you are if you like what you see. We chose too!
I was just trying to give bear a little insight into the Tuck, no offense intended. Stay away from flapping blue tarps & cliffs, copy! :wink:
No offence taken my friend
Now
You're fired
Naw, just kiddin...Maybe... ;-)
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Ken & I became independent contractors some time ago...... :popcorn:
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Ken & I became independent contractors some time ago...... :popcorn:
That's crap!
Now how can I have people in control of my site that I have no control over?
I just don't get it...
Makes no sense
How did we get to this point? ;-)
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Worse yet, Shawn told me to fire YOU !!! Buahahaha
Just looked at a used dump trailer today, from the same people I got the 5 ton from (a used car lot). It's one of those "slightly extremely used landscaper models" that typically go for 5k new. I asked how much, he says 5795.00 (weird number but whatever). I said look, I've got cash, lets talk about this....that's more than it was when new!. He counters with, "ok, I'll take 5595.00". I just shook my head and told him he was on crack, then drove away.
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Well, you did buy the 5 ton?
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Don, I believe control is a fleeting illusion.......
Also, you may already know this, but if you are having material delivered its cheaper to bring in bigger trucks. The belly dumps carry 26 tons a trip and can at least lay a long strip of material along the road as they dump
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Ken & I became independent contractors some time ago...... :popcorn:
That's crap!
Now how can I have people in control of my site that I have no control over?
I just don't get it...
Makes no sense
How did we get to this point? ;-)
Not sure really, I think it was all Kens idea & well you know his affinity for H so let's just blame her for now. But I'm sure with some help from the media it will be those same pesky Russians again!
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Ouch JR... just ouch. ... but I deserved it
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Ouch JR... just ouch. ... but I deserved it
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Hey, the story's are great. Have a couple of those under my belt.
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Just got back from looking over a "Big Tex" 14,000 lb, 14 foot dump trailer.
I must say, those are impressive.
Quoted me $7,000 + tax
I wanted a solar charger, spare tire, ramps, and a pintle/lunette ring
:likebutton:
Would highly recommend the roll up tarp cover too. We thought we could get away without it.... wrong. Just added it, worth every penny.
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Don, I believe control is a fleeting illusion.......
Also, you may already know this, but if you are having material delivered its cheaper to bring in bigger trucks. The belly dumps carry 26 tons a trip and can at least lay a long strip of material along the road as they dump
Ain't gonna happen!
Truckers refuse to come down my "road" with anything other than a single axle...
That very truck blew a tire out on a delivery to my property...
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Just got back from looking over a "Big Tex" 14,000 lb, 14 foot dump trailer.
I must say, those are impressive.
Quoted me $7,000 + tax
I wanted a solar charger, spare tire, ramps, and a pintle/lunette ring
:likebutton:
Would highly recommend the roll up tarp cover too. We thought we could get away without it.... wrong. Just added it, worth every penny.
Dawg,
You and your dad have a Big Tex, right?
OK, well looking at some other brands I see some deficiencies with the BT trailer.
The BT 14K dumper only has two internal tie rings and they are in the back...???
Looking underneath the bed reinforcing seems all wrong. I mean the dump part main rails do not line up with the lower frame. The reinforcing longitudinal channels do not rest on the lower frame at all!!! What the heck is that about???
They use 10 gage, and I guess that is adequate, but barely. Kaufman trailers, for instance uses 3/16", like almost 30% thicker in the floor.
The sides of the BT trailer are nor reinforced in the middle with a longitudinal rib. Just sheet steel bottom to top. Others weld in a 3"-4" wide box channel half way up, vastly strengthening the sides.
I may be missing the point, but I am not seeing the best quality in the BT trailers by far.
Am I wrong or just expecting too much?
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Just got back from looking over a "Big Tex" 14,000 lb, 14 foot dump trailer.
I must say, those are impressive.
Quoted me $7,000 + tax
I wanted a solar charger, spare tire, ramps, and a pintle/lunette ring
:likebutton:
Would highly recommend the roll up tarp cover too. We thought we could get away without it.... wrong. Just added it, worth every penny.
Dawg,
You and your dad have a Big Tex, right?
OK, well looking at some other brands I see some deficiencies with the BT trailer.
The BT 14K dumper only has two internal tie rings and they are in the back...???
Looking underneath the bed reinforcing seems all wrong. I mean the dump part main rails do not line up with the lower frame. The reinforcing longitudinal channels do not rest on the lower frame at all!!! What the heck is that about???
They use 10 gage, and I guess that is adequate, but barely. Kaufman trailers, for instance uses 3/16", like almost 30% thicker in the floor.
The sides of the BT trailer are nor reinforced in the middle with a longitudinal rib. Just sheet steel bottom to top. Others weld in a 3"-4" wide box channel half way up, vastly strengthening the sides.
I may be missing the point, but I am not seeing the best quality in the BT trailers by far.
Am I wrong or just expecting too much?
Oh no, you're probably right on. I'm not saying it's the best out there... thats just what we have. And I just linked to the Big Tex because I knew they had a 14k bumper pull that I had remembered seeing. We have a dealer in my hometown, Dad likes them, and the price was the biggest factor when we were looking. Like i think Shawn stated, Bri-Mar is better quality, and i think Load Trial is as well. Knowing that you're going to be hauling a lot of rock, I'd prob look for a better quality model with a scissor lift.
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And...
This Big Tex is the most expensive!
That Kaufman, I believe which placed bed stiffeners every 12" was like $6,600
Most I have found run in the mid 6K range, and most others have 4-5 tiedowns, bed longitudinal stiffeners and on and on.
Also the other brands mostly include the ramps for free, but BT charges for them.
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Kaufman, bri-mar & load n trail most likely in that order I would guess for quality. We had a load n trail 25k GN at steel shop that we abused for years and other than rewiring it once and some suspension components it took our abuse well.
I once had a big Tex 24' 14k GN think they called it a landscape trailer. It had sides on it about 2' tall and the top rail for the sides was 3" sq tube. It was a super light equipment trailer that I could haul the EB, atv's and skid loader or tractors on when needed. Loved that trailer.
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I think the lift system and how it attaches to the bed is if not the most important very close to the top of the list. You do not want anything lifted high in the air to be flopping around while trying to dump or spread. Not the best to have the whole thing laying on its side or worse just the bed laying on its side.
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Don, also remember that the heavier the trailer the less payload you have. You can make a very heavily reinforced trailer but if its overkill then it takes away from your payload.
Food for thought
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TRN, it's the Tuck recall they can overload those heavy trailers and get away with it.
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Yeah even on my BT with a payload of 5k, I know for a fact it will dump over 7k of gravel lol
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Don, also remember that the heavier the trailer the less payload you have. You can make a very heavily reinforced trailer but if its overkill then it takes away from your payload.
Food for thought
I plan to keep it all within the range limits as far as I am concerned.
But here's something. THe Big Texas trailer, which is a satisfactory unit, I think, has a 14K MGW. For $380 more, one can upgrade to "G" rated tires, and that gets you a GWT of 14K...No change
Another make, (Perhaps Kaufman??) has the base 14 X 83" wide dumper rated at 14K MGW. The buyer can opt for extra a reinforced chassis and get a 15K MGW. Buyer can also opt for reinforced frame and "G" rated tires and get a 16K MGW, one ton more, but with some added weight. I would think the added weight would come in less than 500 lbs, so I'd be looking at legally being able to transport another 1,500 lbs of gravel or whatever, and really, whatever they poured in...
On the dumper loads I had hauled in last week, two loade came in at something just under 10K, so they were paying attention to that number. But one load was over 12K, a ton over GWT. Driver didn't seem to think it mattered much. (Read: No one checks, so who cares!)
To Bob,
I agree, it is important to get a strong attachment between dumper and chassis.
So what is that exactly?
I really don't know...
Most trailers seem to have a scissors lift with power up, and power down. THen quite a few have a dual cylinder lift system that is power up and gravity down. Then a few have an extension hydraulic single cylinder design that is a bit weird looking to say the least, thinking I'll just avoid that one.
So it's dual hydro cylinder or single scissors lift...But which one?
To the general population of boneheads and knuckle heads:
Then there's other features like grease zerks.
Some have them, some do not.
Assuming every trailer can haul gravel for a lifetime, it could come down to some convenience features like style of ramps, tie-downs, grease zerks, under bed storage. and even the way the gate is held open.
Some require you to lift and catch a spring/dog, while others you just fling open and a mechanical device catches and holds (Convenience).
Then finally, there is cost. Cost is mugo important as well, but I wouldn't trifle over a few hundred clams, I'd say the threshold for tipping the scale money wise vs something simple would be $300 ish, something more important, $500, with the assumption that the trailer checks all the big blocks to my satisfaction.
Hmmm, just noted a problem here. I went normal style this morning, sheddin' my Kintuckee vernacular...
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Dual cylinder only, didn't realize some still used single on the large units. In the past speaking with guys that have used them the singles wouldn't dump an overloaded trailer. However, the dual cylinder units I have never heard that complaint. Dual cylinder should be more stable, think less stress on hinge points etc.
I had the two Way gate feature on mine & it's worth the extra to me. If I was dumping gravel I could chain & tail gate it. If I was dumping a load of fire wood I could split them and lock them open to either side. Very handy....
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Do you mean dual acting (power up and down) or a pair of cylinders?
I think a scissors lift is better than a pair of cylinders. With the correct ram a single will be able to lift just as much as two. On the dual cylinder designs the cylinders are giving it structure when raised. The scissor lift gives it structure while raised making it stronger on uneven ground etc.. On a scissor style the ram is only lifting the load.
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Dang my choices are much less complicated....can I afford it, or can't I...
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Dang my choices are much less complicated....can I afford it, or can't I...
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H says you can't....... now back to work!
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Do you mean dual acting (power up and down) or a pair of cylinders?
I think a scissors lift is better than a pair of cylinders. With the correct ram a single will be able to lift just as much as two. On the dual cylinder designs the cylinders are giving it structure when raised. The scissor lift gives it structure while raised making it stronger on uneven ground etc.. On a scissor style the ram is only lifting the load.
Bear, the logic backed by the engineering is there no doubt. However, I would highly suggest if he goes with the single scissor he speaks with an owner or two that have them & see if they've run into any issues. Maybe it's only low quality units that use too small of a single or the engineering isn't correct idk. However, I have known of 2 or 3 guys with this setup in the past who were not happy.
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My trailer has a scissors lift which is rated higher than the GVW of the trailer. Attachment points on the underside of bed are quite wide and beefy, and it has a large cylinder with power up only. It has raised every load that has been put on it and a few were a bit/lots over the weight limit. The advantage of a power up only system is the battery will provide many more cycles before needing recharged. I have spread many loads of gravel and never once did the bed not come down on its own when only dumping a partial load. Hinge pins need to be strong and kept greased and not allowed to become sloppy, or trouble is in the works. Yes, a multi use end gate is a very important feature. I have seen broken or bent cylinders on trailers that used a pair, they do have to extend farther and are subject to more stress. Am sure there are stronger built ones that hold up fine, but there are some pretty weak dump trailers out there.
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I think he should just build his own.....
:popcorn:
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I think he should just build his own.....
:popcorn
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I just had flash backs to the tac topper! :popcorn:
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You mean this one?
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You mean this one?
That would be the one, vision of pre rangers with sawzalls....
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I have a feeling we're going to have to fire Don again. :)
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I have a feeling we're going to have to fire Don again. :)
I have a feeling you keep that photo on "quick draw" just for such occasions!
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Been a while since I've saw that pic.
Thanks for the flashback!
Now, I'm sure someone's getting fired.
:popcorn:
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Someone's gettin' fired, that's for sure
Gave me a PTSD (Post topper stress disorder) attack!
Soon as I figure who's at the heart of this, they're gone
No matter what happens here I always suspect Ken and his ornery brother in the rockies. Seems some of those rocks match up pretty well with what they have in their heads!
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I have a feeling we're going to have to fire Don again. :)
Hold up, was he ever unfired from the last time?
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I just had a flashback of the scene in "The Christmas Story" where Ralphie is beating the tar outta Flick and swearing a blue streak while his buddy is trying to alert him to his mothers presence and flinching himself saying "ooooh, yeash!" :facepalm:
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OK, so today was a big wash!
Neither the dealer, nor the factory seem to know anything about their product. I have a case where either the dealer lying or the factory not having a clue what they actually build. Either way, it looks pretty bad at the moment
Here's the chat I had this morning with Big-Tex:
name: don
email: hoverjunkie@hotmail.com
I have a few questions about the 14' dump trailer
11:00
Hello, Don!
Thank for contacting us today, I can help you with your concern.
11:01
Considering buying one today/tomorrow... What type of steel do you use?
11:01
Unfortunately I do not have the brand of steel that we use.
11:02
not brand...what type?
11:03
I believe it is priefert steel.
11:03
Mild steel?
11:04
I apologize but I do not have the information on steel except for the thickness of it.
What is your zip code and I can locate a dealer who can better assist you.
11:05
priefert steel is a company/supplier...I'm sure you are a sweetheart, but can you please connect me with someone who really knows the product?
The dealer could not answer my questions
11:06
So here it is. If I can answer the questions to my satisfaction, I will buy the BT trailer, if not, I won't
And
11:07
I do not mean to be rude, just cutting to the quick and trying to find out some things...
11:09
I apologize but the "type " of steel is not information that I have. The only thing I can really tell you about the steel is that it is 20" 16GA.
11:10
I apologize that is not for the 14'
The 14LX-14' has 24" 12Ga side.
11:11
That's not correct Ashley, it is 10 gage, 20 gage is like roofing metal. Look, you are my answer source, and you don't know what kind of steel the trailer is made from...The whole trailer is steel, sort of an important item of information...Have a great day,
You should mention that it has high tensile strength steel, if indeed, it does...That is why I asked if it was mild steel
11:18
People meeting customers ought to know the product, but as a buyer I am finding this generic scripted information vs someone who knows anything is the norm. Guess I'm just frustrated, don't take it personally, God Bless..
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Customer Service is more likely, Customer Frustration Department....... especially when ofshore! :angry:
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Then I went to the dealer
He said, the trailer is made from high strength steel, not mild steel
So who do I believe, a 15 year old girl in Texas or a salesman who just wants to move units?
I did go over and examine the Big-Tex 14LX more closely and guess what?
The top frame in the dump bed is nothing more than a piece of angle. Not a C or a box, but an angle only. Which means all that could touch the bottom frame is a 1/4" wide contact patch. I bet that wouldn't wear away any of that expensive powder coating!
But what makes it a no-buy and avoid is that none of the upper payload bed touches the lower frame except for the two hinges and the actual scissors mount points. Yep! Top frame and lower frame showed no sign of any contact at all, and the longitudinal spars are recessed even more so the bed floor would have to bend down 3" or more before it would find something to rest on.
Hate to say it, but the thing looks to be of a poor design.
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Customer Service is more likely, Customer Frustration Department....... especially when ofshore! :angry:
They are in Texas MIke!
You'd think Texas would have anything big, heavy duty, ag, destructive, truck related, down pat!
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So, I takes my happy butt over to another dealer who sells Gator Made trailers. They say they are the strongest.
Well I raised the thing and it has the dual cylinder design and is like rock solid. Looking under the bed I see the ribbing is sparse, few, and far between. Looked like close to 30" between spars near the cylinder mount. I just told him, forget it, I wasn't interested.
But the really cool part was that the sales guy, Ben was super cool, a strong believer, and looking back at it, I believe my visit there was more about sharing about our Lord than any trailer!
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Customer Service is more likely, Customer Frustration Department....... especially when ofshore! :angry:
They are in Texas MIke!
You'd think Texas would have anything big, heavy duty, ag, destructive, truck related, down pat!
Sometimes they consider themselves to be their own country and the illegals are almost like off-shore help!
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Someone's gettin' fired, that's for sure
Gave me a PTSD (Post topper stress disorder) attack!
Soon as I figure who's at the heart of this, they're gone
No matter what happens here I always suspect Ken and his ornery brother in the rockies. Seems some of those rocks match up pretty well with what they have in their heads!
Maybe is a conspiracy?
So where to on trailers now?
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So I give you a list of 3 manufacturers that build a quality product. None of which you start with? Ken, are you following this!?! & he wonders why we went independent! :popcorn:
Something else to consider, structural steel (at least for trailer manufacturing is mild steel). High tensile sheet probably isn't going to be used on a dump trailer and the term of the material you're looking for is an "abrasive resistant or AR grade" material or an "impact resistant" steel which is also called "wear resistant" in some cases. The substantial increased cost of such steel is why you most likely won't find it used on production trailers. You do however find it in the form of wear bars on excavating buckets and in more expensive dump beds for dump trucks etc.
From my experience that isn't really necessary for truck pulled trailers. As you noted the spacing on the cross members and steel thickness of the floor is more important anyhow. If you wear the bed out it's probably time to trade that trailer in if you purchased a quality unit anyhow.
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I have done more homework and have discovered some really good ones. Load Trail and Kaufman amongst them
Now on to more building. Hustled a bunch of heavy stuff for a couple days and my sore muscles are telling me about it. Objective now is to get the rain collection and distribution system complete. If it works like I think it will, this should answer my short term survival living water needs (Few if any showers, water conservation and so forth...)
When I am around the farm working hard and not drawing water for concrete, I average something a bit less than 25 gallons a day. I take a shower at the end of the day to wash off the dirt, but I wouldn't necessarily have to do that in extremis. Five of us would be busting through, say 150 gallons a day and that would get us through two weeks. We are getting significant rain more frequently than that, so the system will replenish, but not in drought conditions. We are not watering a garden yet so that will have to be provided for eventually.
Realistically, something around 20,000 gallons should span the seasons from dry back to wet and maintain some sort of balance. This is just the next step.
So I plan to construct a mechanical room that will house that big 1550 gallon tank, piping, a filter system, and also a generator, a solar power system and likely a solar heated hot water system along with some mice, roaches, old .22 brass some grandkid found and hid and at least one work glove the dog hid as well. I suspect I will also house some spiders, some mud dubber nests, and an occasional opossum/raccoon/skunk.
So with all those considerations here we go...Build spot is shown here. Room size will be 10 X 14
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I'll be placing everything on a floor set below the existing floor just to keep entry height low, and to give me a tall ceiling for good spider web siting.
Some of you knuckleheads will say, "Well why not just put the tank on the ground" I'd say to that, "It's my build and I wanted it this way," and that is answer enough!
Also, the warrant officer was ah' thinkin' yes he was. The warrant officer sez to himself, "but what ifinns I dig the bank out and expose the downhill piers to water, and reduce the dirt holdin' em' in place?? Den, maybe the buildin' might roll over on its side and even roll over the camper on it's way toward the Licking river...
So piers it is!
And here is the hydraulic and diesel drill and the hole it made
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Those quick tube concrete holdin' things are mostly good. I discovered that once you get them in concrete and you decide to move them a bit, the seams let go and your concrete leaks all over your left shoe.
Once I got the first post done, I used a laser level to shoot all the other post's heights
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^^^ I purposely misaligned that thing just to make my life more difficult. (Any misalignment and the light no shiney) So I got to reset that thing about ten times, but eventually I was able to mark, then mismeasure for the reference line.
Luckily I discovered the misstep and was able to twist the pier back into place, although first twisting it apart and dumping concrete onto my left foot...No worries, some duct tape and life was back to breathing freshly poured concrete dust
(There is a funny story about that I'll relate later)
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Then I discovered a handy technique for leveling and adjusting the exact position for the top.
These tubes are 12"
They come in sets of three
For shipping and to conserve shelf space the sets of three are actually three different sizes so that one fits inside the preceding tube. Therefore one can place the primary tube in the hole close to where you want it, then with a short section of the next larger tube, move it to the exact position, then tape it up, and fill with concrete and reinforcement stuff
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It took a lot of manual labor and was a pretty good workout, but kentucky yielded and the piers now stand proudly erect, although not perfectly straight ready to shoulder the burden of a buncha waters
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And with the site cleaned up:
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I spread some more gravel around the rock step thing and the slope to the shed. In retrospect, I am not so sure that was a good idea...That gravel is currently akin to greased roller bearings...
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Then finished graveling out the pergola, and area around the camper complex
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View of mech room location relative to the pergola
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Speaking of the pergola, it survived a significant thunder storm completely intact...Yea!!!!
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Looks good. That green tin looks really nice too
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Getting a lot done.
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Looks good. That green tin looks really nice too
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I'm going to put it on everything eventually...common theme if you will
After I tear into the roof of the "Shed" I'll just redo it with the metal as well
Pretty easy stuff to use
But hard to hang on to
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Looking good there Don - remember, measure twice, cut/dig once! :smiley:
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Looking good there Don - remember, measure twice, cut/dig once! :smiley:
I think that is some subconscious way, I get satisfaction from building things out of alignment, which aren't square, that don't fit properly...
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The last couple of years at H&A we started buying all Kaufman trailers. Seemed to be built a lot stouter than anything else, and the prices were better. So it was a double win.
On dump trailers, we had 3-4 of them. 3 bumper pull and one gooseneck. All three bumper pull were single cylinder scissor lift, hydraulic lift, gravity down. Gooseneck was dual cylinder. I can say that the single cylinder scissor lifts would get into situations of someone not paying attention and overloading them, and we would need a backhoe or trackhoe to tie on to the front of the trailer to help it lift and dump. How much weight was it? I have no clue. I just know it would not dump unless another piece of equipment was there to help. But take in to consideration that it was more than likely WAY over loaded... I never messed with the dual cylinder gooseneck trailer much. I know they never had any issues with it dumping though.
Would the single cylinder scissor lift work for your application, I'm sure it will. And if it doesn't, you have a piece of equipment or two around for assistance. But the dual cylinder set up may surpass the unknown and give you the results your after without any assistance.
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and on the rock slides you built....
That is clean washed rock. No fines in it. If you want compaction, you will have to buy a rock material that has fines in it. If you keep using clean washed rock, then expect to spin out every time. Washed rock is fine on flat surfaces, but not on inclines.
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The earth mover man has spoken!
Question is ashley, will knucklehead listen or continue to argue with the stop sign......
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He never looked at a Kaufman.... so I'm throw my bet in the hate of at least looking. Or maybe I missed his review of one?
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and on the rock slides you built....
That is clean washed rock. No fines in it. If you want compaction, you will have to buy a rock material that has fines in it. If you keep using clean washed rock, then expect to spin out every time. Washed rock is fine on flat surfaces, but not on inclines.
I realize the error in my ways
I'll scrape the #57 onto the road and come over top of what remains with some dense grade.
Have it all done before it gets cold.
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Correct me if I'm wrong Ash but can't Don just leave the rock that is there for base and overlay it with say a #73 (I believe that has crushed limestone in it). This is how we built driveways back in Indiana....
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Well I am not Ash, but he needs crusher fines mixed into the clean stuff. If he has elevation room for some minus stuff it should work in and stabilize the clean gravel. If not, scrape some off and start over.
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Well I am not Ash, but he needs crusher fines mixed into the clean stuff. If he has elevation room for some minus stuff it should work in and stabilize the clean gravel. If not, scrape some off and start over.
It's ok Bob, Ash isn't even considered part time here. It's like he gets drunk every six months and stumbles in here or something..... :popcorn:
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Rough crowd Don. Curious as to the weight of the water and other mechanicals that you intend to store there.
Also the rock advice is sound. Gotta have fines to lock in place.
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Rough crowd Don. Curious as to the weight of the water and other mechanicals that you intend to store there.
Also the rock advice is sound. Gotta have fines to lock in place.
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This was something I had wondered about because he said he was going to put a 1550 gallon tank in there, which when full, would weigh 12400lbs plus how much ever the empty tank weighs.
I know absolutely zilch about rock, other than it looks good!
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Rough crowd Don. Curious as to the weight of the water and other mechanicals that you intend to store there.
Also the rock advice is sound. Gotta have fines to lock in place.
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As a rough estimate, water and piping = 15,000
generator and other electricals, say, 1,000 lbs
Lets throw a water heater in there + 500
Weight of two floors...Did I mention I was considering adding a full second floor which when cut into the roof would make for a 10 X 14 bathroom. So structure, what, a ton?
So the eight piers would be carrying what, 18.5, so lets just say 20,000 or 10 tons
10 X 14 = 140 sq/ft. 20,000/140 = 142.85 lb/ft2
So here's the trick part
Normal home floors are constructed for loads of about 40 psf...
I'm looking at 142ish lb/ft2
I am going to use 2 X 10 syp joists
The 2 X 10 can span quite a distance while maintaining live loads of 40 lb/ft2 with a 24 oc spacing.
Reducing that spacing to 16" gains a lot and I will place mine on 12" centers.
I also plan to span around 9' 6" because I plan to double up the plates the joists will attach to.
It's not completely clear but spanning 10 feet with a 2 X 10 exceeds the 100 lb/ft2 restaurant floor requirement, so with some fuzzy estimating I think I will be there.
Next question is how much weight can a 13" concrete post carry? Well in clay, 1300 lbs per pier, and gravel, 3600 lbs per pier.
But what about piers resting on rock? As in a large rock in the ground that God put there? Man, like I couldn't figure that, but I know the concrete is 5000 lb rated mix, so the pier itself is pretty strong. Some of the piers are deep and rest in clay/rock, and others are resting on the limestone below the surface.
The 40 psf and 100 psf residential and commercial floor structure are easily achieved with the lumber I am using and I am doubling that up, but of the piers??? I just don't know. I think to be sure I'll pour a few more and place them strategically to carry more weight
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Rough crowd Don. Curious as to the weight of the water and other mechanicals that you intend to store there.
Also the rock advice is sound. Gotta have fines to lock in place.
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That will fix easily...Scrape it out some and overlay with dense grade and call it done
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Rough crowd Don. Curious as to the weight of the water and other mechanicals that you intend to store there.
Also the rock advice is sound. Gotta have fines to lock in place.
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As a rough estimate, water and piping = 15,000
generator and other electricals, say, 1,000 lbs
Lets throw a water heater in there + 500
Weight of two floors...Did I mention I was considering adding a full second floor which when cut into the roof would make for a 10 X 14 bathroom. So structure, what, a ton?
So the eight piers would be carrying what, 18.5, so lets just say 20,000 or 10 tons
10 X 14 = 140 sq/ft. 20,000/140 = 142.85 lb/ft2
So here's the trick part
Normal home floors are constructed for loads of about 40 psf...
I'm looking at 142ish lb/ft2
I am going to use 2 X 10 syp joists
The 2 X 10 can span quite a distance while maintaining live loads of 40 lb/ft2 with a 24 oc spacing.
Reducing that spacing to 16" gains a lot and I will place mine on 12" centers.
I also plan to span around 9' 6" because I plan to double up the plates the joists will attach to.
It's not completely clear but spanning 10 feet with a 2 X 10 exceeds the 100 lb/ft2 restaurant floor requirement, so with some fuzzy estimating I think I will be there.
Next question is how much weight can a 13" concrete post carry? Well in clay, 1300 lbs per pier, and gravel, 3600 lbs per pier.
But what about piers resting on rock? As in a large rock in the ground that God put there? Man, like I couldn't figure that, but I know the concrete is 5000 lb rated mix, so the pier itself is pretty strong. Some of the piers are deep and rest in clay/rock, and others are resting on the limestone below the surface.
The 40 psf and 100 psf residential and commercial floor structure are easily achieved with the lumber I am using and I am doubling that up, but of the piers??? I just don't know. I think to be sure I'll pour a few more and place them strategically to carry more weight
You knew what I was asking about. Couple of things to consider. Your load is not evenly distributed. Those per sq/ft span tables are for evenly distributed loads so make sure you take that into consideration. The only way to know about soils is to test them. If you assume the best, the soil probably can bear 3000 per sq ft. Now remember your kin tucky math. Dem pie are square. Your round 12 inch tube forms are only about 3/4 a sq/ft in surface area. So each would bear about 2300 lbs each. I'd do 9 piers which would fix your span loads for the point load of the tanks and give you a little room on the soil bearing estimates. For a total of about 21,000 lb capacity in 3000lb sq/ft soil.
Here's a site I like to refer to sometimes.
https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/footing_fundamentals/why_soils_matter.htm
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Oh, and if you are mixing by hand, consider that cheap 3cu/ft mixer from HF. With coupon you can pick it up under $200. it only really mixes 2 80lb bags at a time, but it works well and will cut your labor significantly.
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Looking good there Don - remember, measure twice, cut/dig once! :smiley:
I think that is some subconscious way, I get satisfaction from building things out of alignment, which aren't square, that don't fit properly...
Finally in touch with your inner Hillbilly aren't you! :laugh:
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Looking good there Don - remember, measure twice, cut/dig once! :smiley:
I think that is some subconscious way, I get satisfaction from building things out of alignment, which aren't square, that don't fit properly...
Finally in touch with your inner Hillbilly aren't you! :laugh:
It's inner/outer/and sometimes all over
BTW, Ma Bengals handed Tampa Bay their butt last night! I was there!
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RN, I stayed up till nearly 0100 recalcing the thing and having some doubt, I think I am going to change up the design somewhat.
I think I'll set the tank on the ground, on a pad of gravel, then frame up the floor around it. Won't be as convenient, but will remove all the weight from the piers...
Off to do just that...
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This place is great! Continual learning on many topics is hard to come by! I would have completey forgot to take the pier strength into consideration.
Thanks for the brief lesson gents!
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RN, I stayed up till nearly 0100 recalcing the thing and having some doubt, I think I am going to change up the design somewhat.
I think I'll set the tank on the ground, on a pad of gravel, then frame up the floor around it. Won't be as convenient, but will remove all the weight from the piers...
Off to do just that...
I know for a pilot type that it's hard to remember that sometimes "grounded" is a good thing- harder for things to drop outta the sky when really heavy!
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:popcorn:
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That'll work too Don. Caulk between the tank in the floor so you discourage snakes from getting in...or in my case scorpions....
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TRN that is a nice site but I noticed it does not take into account the depth of the footing. Depth will make a diff since you do get side loading. Now if he is only going down 2ft I doubt it would make a any difference at all. I know when we did my 2nd story footing they were 4ft under the current foundation, but just 2ft wide.
To support the addition I am about to do, I plan on a 12in footing, 3ft deep.
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OK problem solved/averted. I started with several loads of gravel which I spread, then leveled, then repeated. You will see it getting thicker as we poke along with the next few posts
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Then the framing begins.
Without the need for doubling up the perimeter, the centers of the "box" did not fall on dead center of the piers, but I think this will be OK
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To help me square the thing up from the get-go, I screwed in these corner blocks to create the "Squarest" starting point I could. It was pretty close only requiring a bit of adjustment. In the end I was inside 1/4" difference between either corner measurement so I settled on that.
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The subfloor framing is all 2 X 10. The band is pressure treated and the rest is SYP
There are no nails in the framing, You can see the number of screws used. Here I am using #9, 3" deck screws, however in the unsupported joists, I switched to #10 3 1/2 inch
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With the thing squared up, the best I could get it, The band box was screwed to the piers through simple "L" brackets with Tapcon concrete screws. The Dewalt 20 volt ratcheting driver made quick work of them and made that box as solid as a baptist refusing to attend a pentecostal church!
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Not only was it square but darned if after a wee bit of shimming it was level as well.
Definitely not the norm for my building skills, but I guess I screwed this one up (get it...screwed it up...) and got it straight
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Next, in go the joists, held up by metal joist hangers and also with screws run through the plates
Those are 5". 1/4" structural wood screws. They were complimented with two 3.5" screws
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Then the rest of the joists were added to the "generator end" of the room
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Next up, the area for the water tank was boxed in
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Then the test fit, with more gravel added, but not up to the proper level yet
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With the tank sitting there and roughly centered, I measured for the corner-fillin' pieces, then glued them in there with a bunch of too-long wood screws. For the morons out there (Democrats who have never picked up a hammer) the screws are not actually made from wood!
Sorry if I offended...Well, actually, guess I really don't care, but, OK where were we?
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Yet those side-winders are only 2 X 6 and douglas fir at that...Just wanted to give some building inspector if one is readin', the cold shivers!
Then the gravel was topped up and the sheetin' began!
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Before long, and after two new blisters and half a thousand 2.5" wood screws (Made from metal) the decking was providing shade so that the carpenter bees could work away in comfort!
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With the tank dropped in there with the gravel at the height I liked, the fit was OK by my reckonin'
Later on, I'll fashion a soft collar for the tank to keep the spiders separated from the roaches and the wasps.
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Concept is to create some soft but sealing collar, then whip up a door/hatch to gain access to the leaks that will occur at the bulkhead fitting
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Now, the original plan was to add an eight foot wall to that, then a shed roof from the shed wall outward
But why not add an extra room on top your rain collection room when you have the chance, I always say!
So all it would involve is about 150% more work and expense and cause me to rip off part of a pretty new roof
Makes perfect sense to me!
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Oh, and got some grass cut as well!
Wife started to cut the grass, but after maybe 20 minutes, she got the tractor stuck, got frustrated, climbed in the GJ and departed stage left.
I checked, she had dropped a front tire into a hold and didn't shift the thing into 4WD. I pushed the lever until the green light came on and drove right out...
I finished the grass after doing everything else!
Now, I'm not saying anything here, but mine is not all that mechanically inclined. I asked her a couple of things about her GJ coming home from the Bengals game, Friday, and she couldn't answer any of them...
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Thats a lot of work there BD. Looking good.
See you haven't got to the trailer awning yet.
You going to put something around the edge of the gravel to stabilize it so the tank doesn't keep pushing it out? Lots of lbs there!
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Don, I think I would use real anchors of 1/2" diameter or larger variety to mount the building base to those pylons. Along with a heavier bracket, tapcons are ok for some things but I question whether what you have currently is enough. Otherwise, march on & it looks nice!
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I agree Sean. Some nice corner plates with a few of these and it will never move. Specially with another floor on there and some wind!
I like the SDS bolts with hangers.
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OK, I'll look into it
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What laser lever do you use, is that a rotary? I am thinking of one that doesn't break the bank.
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What laser lever do you use, is that a rotary? I am thinking of one that doesn't break the bank.
Cheapo Dewalt I picked up at SLOWES. Only cost around $40
Does NOT work well in sunlight. TO use it I have to heavily shadow the target, then mark the barely visible red line with a pencil.
But
It worked
Bubble in level was dead center!
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Kinda looking at this with a green laser and good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Lomvum-Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Vertical-Outdoor/dp/B06XXDXWGJ/ref=nav_ya_signin?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502681084&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=laser+level&psc=1&
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I agree Sean. Some nice corner plates with a few of these and it will never move. Specially with another floor on there and some wind!
I like the SDS bolts with hangers.
Agreed JR, exactly what I was thinking that I would use.
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I'm a big fan of all thread and the super strength concrete epoxy. Works well.
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I'm a big fan of all thread and the super strength concrete epoxy. Works well.
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For the record, I believe this is stronger than what JR mentioned. I know 20 years ago in high stress conditions we used a special all thread & epoxy on a job. The engineer determined this was the better choice for that job. The bolt was running horizontal out from a concrete wall
rather than vertical as Don's use. Since then I have used hundreds of what JR is selling for all sorts of applications.
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What laser lever do you use, is that a rotary? I am thinking of one that doesn't break the bank.
Cheapo Dewalt I picked up at SLOWES. Only cost around $40
Does NOT work well in sunlight. TO use it I have to heavily shadow the target, then mark the barely visible red line with a pencil.
But
It worked
Bubble in level was dead center!
I have an older, maybe non current DeWalt unit.
It is a three beam, each selectable.
You want the beams and not just points.
I think it ran around a couple hundred up here.
It has been awesome as well.
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Hide site, retirement site.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=1020467&share_tid=1267&share_pid=60867&url=http%3A%2F%2Freal-man-truckworks-and-survival%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3Ftopic%3D1267%2Emsg60867%23msg60867&share_type=t
Here's where I anchored mine with the epoxy. Can get it at slowes or home despot it's a two part epoxy in a single tube. Follow instruction and it's actually stronger than the concrete. You'll pull a chunk out of the concrete with the bolt and epoxy before the epoxy fails.
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I'm a big fan of all thread and the super strength concrete epoxy. Works well.
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That is what we used on my garage build. Went around every 3ft of the original frame and 3/4 rod into the new sections.
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Got some time on the building project today. Punched two holes for the anchor for the upcoming steps into the structure.
Somehow the auger moved and punched one of the holes 5" off center from where it was supposed to be. I tried to correct it by shortening the concrete tube and scooting it in the right direction a bit, but the darned thing is still off some!
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Hard to spot here, but the downhill hole in too close to the building. I'm going to have to get creative with the building of the steps
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At least it got level from one pier to the other.
Next I am about to lay down some epoxy onto the OSB floor before erecting the walls
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THis is new to me
The epoxy comes in two bags separated by a seal.
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If you start to roll the large pouch toward the smaller one, the seal separating either is broken and the contents mix freely.
I kneaded the "bag-o-paint for awhile, then snipped a corner off. No dog was nearby to allow me to test the coverage on its nose, so I just started spreadin' the stuff like butter on an everything bagel.
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If you look closely, you can see that not all of the two parts mixed. And I kneaded it for a full minute.
And with the slight of hand and just like that, it was all coated with two coats, and even overlaid with pixie dust.
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I like all the speckles because it helps hide nuts, clips, washers, and other things I drop, making it nearly impossible to find them...That's fun wouldn't you agree?
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Next up, I took Sarge for a hike.
He was agreeable and wanted to bust up some kentucky dirt.
I decided to get on the road, well, path, or whatever and improve some of the rougher sections. I cut the path perhaps two feet wider, then carefully laid back the embankment. I finally figured out the technique and was being rewarded with some decent sloping and piles of dirt which were rounded off and tracked in as well.
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I think I might have cleaned up a few hundred feet of embankment before I was seeing the waning of the sun and threw in the towel.
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I put Sarge up in the shadow of that tree which I can't decide whether I like it or not.
And my ever present mutts...
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Decals are holding up well
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The peaceful end to a productive day:
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There for a minute in that one pic I was thunkin you & Sarge got lost in the woods again..... :popcorn:
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There for a minute in that one pic I was thunkin you & Sarge got lost in the woods again..... :popcorn:
We were mercilessly attacked by a ruthless cedar!
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Who attacked who?
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Dang that is purdy land,,,,,,,,,
Like the coating, good idea for the treehouse!
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Looking like you removed that outcrop that tried to take out the steps of my camper? Saw the kids motorcycle and thought you'd taken your super bike out for a cruise....getting to be that time of year!
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There for a minute in that one pic I was thunkin you & Sarge got lost in the woods again..... :popcorn:
lets clarify shawn.......privates, occifers (like lieutenants) and warrant occifers are the ones that get lost because they don't know how to land navigate.....the Sergeants are the ones who have to go and save them.
so I think it would be safe to say that SARGE probably heard the old man crying and screaming because he was 5 feet from the road and was lost......
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:popcorn:
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get that road widened and leveled so you can get that 26 ton belly dump in there with rock....
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get that road widened and leveled so you can get that 26 ton belly dump in there with rock....
Yessir!
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get that road widened and leveled so you can get that 26 ton belly dump in there with rock....
Yessir!
So this means your not getting a hauling and dumping device? Which is understandable after your recent experience with the trailer manufacturers.
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get that road widened and leveled so you can get that 26 ton belly dump in there with rock....
Yessir!
So this means your not getting a hauling and dumping device? Which is understandable after your recent experience with the trailer manufacturers.
Yep, I've backed off that position
I pay $100 for the trucking service for a load of material
The trailer would cost $8K
That's 80 loads of gravel
In 80 loads, I would certainly have blown a tire or two or replaced the whole set. There would be other maintenance which I don't have to worry about.
I'll just pay the trucking fees
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Worked all day at the farm again. I took loads of pictures, again, with no SD card.
Took lots of photos of the eclipse, over about a three hour span, which did not record.
I took photos of the steps I built for the mechanical room, which also aren't here. I took a few of the embankment I excavated out in preparation for these huge rocks (Boulders) I unearthed. They are mission
I took some cool pics of Sarge with the bucket filled with rocks. THose pics similarly did not record.
I had the errant pic or two of the doggies which are stored in never-never land
And I cleared a couple hundred more feet of the "Road" with Sarge. THose pics like everything else are gone.
Finally after ripping a cylinder and snapping it in two lifting, well, trying to lift a limestone Volkswagon, I took some really good shots of splintered steel which never actually recorded anywhere.
So I hope you can visualize all the proceedings because as sure as snot is slicker than a clinton lying to your face, you won't see anything here!
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DHO!
Card comes out, pictures come off, card goes back...
At least switch the card out...
Sounds like an epic photo day, CARREP day, and no proof.
That sucks on the Sarge front also.
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I don't believe it. Maybe draw a photo with some crayons
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He knows the rules yet still posts, I believe a firing is in order.
I would suggest Ken but think he is still fired from last time or at least should be..... :popcorn:
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:popcorn:
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Sounds like a productive day, or a good story of a productive day!
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No pics, it didn't happen.
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No pics, it didn't happen.
That's what Bill Clinton tried to say......
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Don,
it is with a heavy heart that I must inform you that YOUR FIRED!
reason: failure to take at least 1 picture (with at least a cell phone) of said catastrophic failure of the mechanical device talked about above.
atonement: provide at least 1 picture of the catastrophic mechanical failure.
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I think that to right your wrong, you must reproduce all of the missing missions, and take photos with at least 2 picture taking machines.
Ready? GO !!!
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Don,
it is with a heavy heart that I must inform you that YOUR FIRED!
reason: failure to take at least 1 picture (with at least a cell phone) of said catastrophic failure of the mechanical device talked about above.
atonement: provide at least 1 picture of the catastrophic mechanical failure.
You took that bait?
From those noisy boneheads?
Thought you were smarter than that
So, short hip pocket training session: You can't fire the guy who hired you! I own the friggin place!
What kinda of special dumb you been smokin?
Let me think, so when was the last time some Sergeant fired me, oh that's right...NEVER!
Be careful, you don't want to end up on my radar screen. I have a special sector in the search band for the likes of Ken and Shawn. You don't want to find your place in there...
;-)
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Don,
it is with a heavy heart that I must inform you that YOUR FIRED!
reason: failure to take at least 1 picture (with at least a cell phone) of said catastrophic failure of the mechanical device talked about above.
atonement: provide at least 1 picture of the catastrophic mechanical failure.
You took that bait?
From those noisy boneheads?
Thought you were smarter than that
So, short hip pocket training session: You can't fire the guy who hired you! I own the friggin place!
What kinda of special dumb you been smokin?
Let me think, so when was the last time some Sergeant fired me, oh that's right...NEVER!
Be careful, you don't want to end up on my radar screen. I have a special sector in the search band for the likes of Ken and Shawn. You don't want to find your place in there...
;-)
hey now, somebody has to keep the boss in line....
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This is why every officer in charge at any level has been assigned a Sr. NCO.
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This is why every officer in charge at any level has been assigned a Sr. NCO.
:likebutton:
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Tell me about it! :-((
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Be careful, you don't want to end up on my radar screen. I have a special sector in the search band for the likes of Ken and Shawn. You don't want to find your place in there...
;-)
Yeah, being independent contractors is terrible! As such for the record we can choose who we work for or not! :popcorn:
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I'll pitch in on a box of crayons for these drawerering
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thankfully I wasn't drinking quoffee, or it would have just ran out my nose... :beercheers:
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:likebutton:
I'll pitch in on a box of crayons for these drawerering
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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and on the rock slides you built....
That is clean washed rock. No fines in it. If you want compaction, you will have to buy a rock material that has fines in it. If you keep using clean washed rock, then expect to spin out every time. Washed rock is fine on flat surfaces, but not on inclines.
I realize the error in my ways
I'll scrape the #57 onto the road and come over top of what remains with some dense grade.
Have it all done before it gets cold.
Good deal. I do like that #57 rock. Real pretty and clean. We had to rock a sub station for the power company last year with it. Turns out a top notch job.
Down here, the go to rock is called sb2. Ground up granite in sizes from 2" and under. You get a lot of fines in it as well from the grinding process. Sets up almost as good as concrete in the right applications.
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Correct me if I'm wrong Ash but can't Don just leave the rock that is there for base and overlay it with say a #73 (I believe that has crushed limestone in it). This is how we built driveways back in Indiana....
Not going to say it can't be done, but it would be simpler to relocate the 57 rock and lay back down new rock.
I would not recommend limestone anything. In our area, under a lot of heavy traffic in a short time span, or light traffic in a long time span, it will come apart and turn to dust/mud. Don't get me wrong, it works, and serves its purpose, but you will be replacing limestone after a short period. Granite will give you a lot more life span.
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Well I am not Ash, but he needs crusher fines mixed into the clean stuff. If he has elevation room for some minus stuff it should work in and stabilize the clean gravel. If not, scrape some off and start over.
It's ok Bob, Ash isn't even considered part time here. It's like he gets drunk every six months and stumbles in here or something..... :popcorn:
Easy full timer...
Some of us stay fairly occupied at multiple endeavors....
But, look here, its only been about what, 10-11 days, and I've already made a return visit...
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And some short, burst-fire posts. Nice to see you Ash.
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Easy full timer...
Some of us stay fairly occupied at multiple endeavors....
But, look here, its only been about what, 10-11 days, and I've already made a return visit...
Ouch! That hurt, well not really. However, it is nice to se you stumble in here more often. BTW, where's those extra pics I was promised of the new casa?