It's a 44 in the front.  I'll take a look at the posi lock. 

Thanks!

I just got done talking to prothane on the phone. All they have for directions is a generic set, no detailed instructions are available.

I guess I'll have to wing it.  What's the worst that could happen?lol

Thanks for the pic, but I don't think that'll help much.  The poly ones look much different.  Maybe they were mis packaged.

I'm going to re read the directions and see if I can make sense of them again.

ETA: after looking at the pieces again, I think I have the right parts, and the directions are definitely wrong.  The thick and thinner cylindrical pieces I believe go on the frame/under the cab.(thin in front, thick in rear) the tapered ones go under the frame. I have no idea where the little ones go, and the metal sleeves don't fit over the bolts.

I'm going to call prothane tomorrow. Lol

Thanks. Did you just put grease on the sleeves, or between the bushings and washers/cab/frame?

I finally got around to getting spacers built.  I used 1" pieces of 2 1/2"x1/2" wall DOM tubing with old body mount washers between them and the new poly transmission mounts. 

I then flipped my carrier bearing cross member back over and put the bearing back on top.  The front section of my drive shaft ended up about 3/4" too short, so I'll end up getting it re tubes. 

I still have exhaust to figure out, and I can't remember how to mount the alternator, but I am making slow progress.

I think I may have figured out the drivetrain angle issue.

I think the siderail section of the frame on my truck may be taller than the one on my donor truck, I'll have to stick a tape on both frames to be sure. From some information I found on another forum, it looks like my crew cab should have the taller frame vs the standard cab donor truck.

It seems that if my truck has a 7.2" tall frame and the donor truck has the 6.06" frame, it could cause my problem.  So, if that ends up being the case, I'll just build a 1" spacer to go under the transmission and then flip my carrier bearing cross member back over and call it a day.

And here's a shot of the truck doing work before I broke it. Lol

If anyone is still here, I'm still picking away at this thing.  I got out and started working on the exhaust. I ended up just running the stock exhaust manifolds because I didn't want to mess with getting headers to fit right now.  The driveshaft is mounted, but I think the front may be a little short, as the yoke wobbles a little on the slip splines.(I'm hoping some grease fixes this, like the splines on the front d/s on my 01 suburban) 

I'm trying to use as much of the exhaust that came off the truck as possible, but some of it was really beat up and the mufflers were falling apart, so I'll be changing stuff up a little.  I think I'm going to end up using some glass pack type mufflers to make fitting them under the truck easy.  I'm no good at building exhaust, especially laying on my back on the floor.  I'm keeping it in smallish pieces so I can pull it out after it's tacked and weld it on the floor outside the truck.  I plan on putting the pieces together with the band type clamps to make maintenance easier later.

I've reached the point where I'm sick of looking at the truck, and wish I'd not started this project.  I'm way to far along to do anything but bail out and get rid of the truck (probably for pennies on the dollar from what I have in it) or finishing it.  I've had days where I went out to work on it and ended up laying on the floor looking at the drivetrain wondering if it's going to work.  I think somehow the engine is sitting up higher than it should be, but I could only lower the engine cross member about 1/8" before it's resting on the bottom lip of the frame rail.  I've pretty much decided at this point to just keep going forward and see what issues come up and deal with them then. 

I knew when I started this project that I was pushing myself, but I was dealing in the unknown unknowns (I didn't know what I didn't know) Lol. If I get finished with this, and it works, I'll be on to the fun stuff, like electrical and interior stuff.  I'm not sure how quickly I'll be looking for another project like this though.  It'll be nice to have my garage back.  I'm sure the wife will appreciate being able to park inside again, even if she says it's not a big deal.

Of the drive shaft?  I'm not posting a current pic of the truck. I'm ashamed of my garage. Lol

The junk yard that showed the drive shaft in stock couldn't put their hands on it, so I'm back to modifying the two piece one that I have.  One of my friends is trying to talk me into shortening it myself, but I don't have a good way to insure a square cut.

The downside of the one piece shaft, aside from cost is that there's more of it to hang down and get ran into stuff.  The cost is the biggest factor right now though.

I'm finally able to work on the truck again. I got the body un bolted and lifted out of the way without any issues. I did soak the body mount bolts down with wd40 first though. I have new poly body mounts to put in, since the old ones were only about an inch tall, and looked like a shriveled up hamburger patty.

I cut the carrier bearing cross member out and started taking measurements for having my 2wd two piece drive shaft shortened. It looks like the front section will end up at 21". 

I haven't had luck finding a drive shaft for a club cab 4speed 4x4 locally. There's one yard left that I haven't checked that normally has a good selection of old parts, so if that doesn't shake out, it looks like modifying the one I have will be the way to go.  The drive shaft shop wants about 7-800 bucks to build a one piece shaft for it. It'll probably be less than half of that to modify the one I have.

I hope I'm over the hump at this point.  I want my truck back. Lol

I started cutting out the rivets for the cross member today.  I need to lift the cab up to get at the top rivets and I didn't have time today.

I still need to start shopping junk yards for a drive shaft as well.

I was unable to locate the fuse labeled "rtd" that I've seen mentioned.  My big fuses also look different than the ones in your picture here. 

It's beginning to seem like the only thing I have in common with everyone else with this issue is the message on the dash. Lol

Those last pics are awesome. Thanks a bunch.  It looks like that would fix my problem perfectly.  I think I'll look in my area for a club cab 4x4 in a wrecking yard and at least snag the drive shaft from it.  Most yards around here don't want you cutting on the frame, so I may not be able to take the cross member.  I still think my idea of flipping my cross member over will work just as well though, if i can't find one.

Thanks again for the help!  I guess now I'll have to try to update here more frequently so I don't leave you guys hanging  lol

I want to be done with all of this stuff and get on to getting the interior together and getting the old dog back to work.   

There's the difference.  The cross member in my truck is set up to have the carrier bearing/drive shaft on top of it.  It  looks like my idea for flipping  my cross member over should work.

My donor truck was a standard cab, standard box.

I forgot to mention that I stuck a tape from t-case to pinion tonight and came up with 80"+/-. That doesn't seem too ridiculous. The reason for leaning towards a one piece shaft is that the t-case points straight at the axle, so to use a two piece shaft (which is what I originally planned on), I'd be modifying the cross member or the mount for the t case.  I kind of need to keep costs low right now, unless one way stands out as being clearly better than the other.  At this point flipping that cross member upside down and having a one piece shaft built seems like the path of least resistance. 

I did just have a thought, what if I flipped the cross member over and hung the carrier bearing from it?  That way, I could lower the carrier bearing easily to beat the correct angle.

I used the engine and transmission/t-case cross members from the donor truck.

Here are a few pics.

First is a picture of the engine from the side to try to show how much the engine tilts toward the rear of the truck.

Second is the offending cross member.  By my best SWAG, the centerline of the driveshaft would hit the top edge of the bottom half of the cross member.

Third is a picture to try to show the relationship of the t-case and the cross member.

I'll  try to get some pictures tonight.

How would cross members be modified "normally" (I know it depends on a lot) to clear a drive shaft that would run right through them?  Would it be ok to build an arch from c channel and weld it to the top, then cut the offending piece out?

What about using spacers to raise the t case up to where the carrier bearing would work as is?

Thanks a ton for the help.

I finally got my truck back in the garage, and got the 318 swapped for a 360 and got my transmission and transfer case installed. (Truck is/was a 74 dodge crew cab x200, 2wd/automatic.  Donor vehicle was an 86 w250 with a 360/manual trans.)

I ran Into a problem with the rear drive shaft.  My truck had a 2 piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing on a cross member toward the rear of the cab.  The donor truck had a one piece shaft.  The output for the rear on the t-case points straight at the pinion on the rear axle, but the cross member for the carrier bearing is in he way, and it looks like a one piece drive shaft would be about 8' long.  I originally planned to have the front section of the two piece drive shaft modified to fit but the carrier bearing is higher than the output on the t-case, so the drive shaft would go up then down to the axle.  The cross member that the carrier bearing bolts onto is riveted to the frame, which isn't a huge deal, but I think I want to keep a cross member in there, instead of cutting it out of the way.

I'm guessing that from the factory this truck would have used a divorced transfer case that bolted to that cross member.

Any tips or help would be appreciated, any pictures of running gear on converted or factory 4x4 crew cab dodge trucks of this vintage would be awesome. I'm a little over my head on this project, but that's what keeps it fun.  The suspension is all done, steering is done, and after I get driveshafts figured out, I'll be over the hump and back into areas that I'm more comfortable with.

Thanks!