Author Topic: SquareD Part 4: Paint, topper, Roof rack, and continued change! (Read 202804 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #850 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:46:32 PM »

The trans is free

It's about to undergo a huge transformation!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #851 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:48:16 PM »

Then all the accessories and mounts not sold with the motor came off

Flyin6 · « **Reply #852 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:49:03 PM »

Then everything gets soaked in that purple cleaner/degreaser

Flyin6 · « **Reply #853 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:50:40 PM »

Then thoroughly pressure washed.

I washed for an hour even laying on the creeper and spraying the undercarriage again. I got everything really clean, and ready for the rotary wire brush.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #854 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:51:19 PM »

The engine is ready for delivery to it's new owner.
It's been sitting in those frame rails for 23 years!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #855 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:52:27 PM »

Better:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #856 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:53:27 PM »

Electric power steering

Flyin6 · « **Reply #857 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:54:50 PM »

And that's the situation at the end of build day 163!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #858 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:56:33 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cudakidd53 View Post
With longer springs going on the front, will you make a pan hard bar like you did on the rear? Is there even such a thing for front axles?

I also was wondering if you'll be dyna-matting the balance of the firewall and trans tunnel now that you have easy access?

Looking like you'll be finishing up quickly now that you've removed the motor and can finish that fluid change...

Not a panhard...A traction bar or wheel hop eliminator...
Not required.
Power distribution is something like 70/30 rear/front
Chevy and Ford all use longer springs so it won't be a handling issue other than making it ride much better.

I believe I am going to dynamat the firewall, although not decided if it gets on the outside or the inside yet.
I wrapped the heater motor area because I have no access from the inside for that area.

It will go faster, but not as fast as you may expect. Remember once the power plant and sheet metal goes back on, next comes an extensive bumper system that will wrap the vehicle and take a bit of time to complete. Then comes the exo-skeleton needed to lift those pesky 2 X 4's out of the way

Flyin6 · « **Reply #859 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:57:08 PM »

Well just as I was getting started today, I noticed the red dog had struck yet again.
Funny because I was chuckling over the fact that that D!)*%!! mutt was in the front yard chewing up the mrs's new sandals.
Ha, joke was on me!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #860 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:58:01 PM »

The main press for the day was prepping the frame for the spring removal and reinstallation of the longer springs, but I fit a few other things in as well.
I wanted to get the starter off to the electrical shop to be rebuilt, so it got cleaned up

Flyin6 · « **Reply #861 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:58:44 PM »

I didn't want to lose all the little parts that are scattered about after disassembly from the old motor, so I cleaned some of them for reinstallation
Here is the cast iron engine mount adapter assemblies

Flyin6 · « **Reply #862 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:59:29 PM »

They got the standard wire brush cleaning and primered prior to painting treatment

Flyin6 · « **Reply #863 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:00:14 PM »

Then some John Deere Blitz enamel

Flyin6 · « **Reply #864 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:01:02 PM »

Then reinstalled onto the new motor

Flyin6 · « **Reply #865 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:01:47 PM »

With all the sales about, my friendly Lowes yielded this new Bosch drill to replace the aging unit that has been retasked to operating the leveling jacks on my camper

Flyin6 · « **Reply #866 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:02:37 PM »

After the aggressive pressure washing, things weren't looking bad at all, but time to bring it back to near new looking

Flyin6 · « **Reply #867 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:03:12 PM »

Had to clear the frame of all remaining pieces parts.
Here the proportioning valve is off. I'll evaluate it for reconditioning or replacement

Flyin6 · « **Reply #868 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:04:09 PM »

After what seemed like forever, I had all the old rust and undercoating stripped off the frame

Flyin6 · « **Reply #869 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:05:20 PM »

Then everything was washed with solvent to get it really clean for the next step.

I only finished back to near the shackle mount since those will soon be removed to make room for the new HD parts

Flyin6 · « **Reply #870 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:06:56 PM »

Then the rust converter and metal conditioner was brushed on and chemically did it's thing turning black in the process

Flyin6 · « **Reply #871 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:08:41 PM »

These parts which are transmission cooler lines which actually mount to the engine are next in queue for reconditioning. When that big round cooler goes back on, then the turbocharger is next. That will get the motor pretty close to being ready to reinstall.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #872 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:09:34 PM »

So, that's the situation in the build at the end of build day 164

Flyin6 · « **Reply #873 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:10:16 PM »

Haven't posted in a few days

My back's out

I've been practicing being horizontal since Saturday

I did manage to get that day of grinding in, but that set me back big time

I cleaned out the local stores of Tylenol and that helps keep the pain at a comfortable "9" (on the 1-10 pain index)!

Yesterday I dared some driving. That was good right up to the point where I had to use my leg to step on the brake. That part did not work so well, but, hey, it's an off road truck and a bit of four-wheeling in the local drainage ditches only served to exercise the suspension and prove that all that expensive suspension stuff in the D-Max works as advertised!

So I made it to the paint store and picked up more acid etching primer and some more rubberized undercoating so I'm "Primed" and ready to get back on the frame project and get Jungle's parts in and installed.

Then I read all about injector replacement, as I'm chomping at the bit to get all that stuff installed on the motor and essentially, finish it up to the point where it is ready to reinstall.

I have been talking to the folks at Dynotech, who are renowned transmission builders. I am vacillating between doing it myself and having them do it. We will be using a Goerend torque converter who's stall will be decided after consultation with Steve at Gillette Diesel to properly determine the stall, but the decision is to go old school, non-lockup.

One thing Dynotech does that I could not duplicate is that they machine the case to actually bolt in the sprag clutch. Normally it is set into splines in the case. However if one were to do shuttle work such as snow plowing where direction changes are frequent and sometimes under power, the sprag can fail. Bolting it in pretty much eliminates that.

From a combat perspective I can see proceeding forward, then come upon a bunch of knuckleheads at a choke point or ambush site, then without thinking (Fear) slamming the trans into reverse to get off the "X"

Not that I won't be able to control that fear (I won't of course...War has taught me that fear is a pretty large motivator, and so are bullets) But I will hack, well, let's say, hastily to remove my presence from the situation. I would not want my transmission to fail at that critical point...SO likely Dynotech will get a big box showing up.

They will build the original trans, thus keeping those parts that were born together, still together through the truck's next life.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #874 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:11:15 PM »

OK,
I'm going stir crazy with all this laying and sitting around, so I pushed it and did a little light work on Square D.

First up, I didn't like the way the valve cover piece turned out, so I redid it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #875 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:12:08 PM »

Those colors just weren't working for me, and even though I'm not a color guy, hey, I want the thing to at least look professional. So I decided I'd spray it with wrinkle black, then sand off the lettering later

Flyin6 · « **Reply #876 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:12:58 PM »

Even though it's a Krylon product, it did a pretty good job me thinks

Flyin6 · « **Reply #877 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:13:33 PM »

On the motor

Flyin6 · « **Reply #878 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:14:03 PM »

Hoping to get rid of more and more of these new parts, It was time to throw in the new Bosch injectors.

First the injection lines are loosened

Flyin6 · « **Reply #879 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:14:53 PM »

Then the inlet pipe

Flyin6 · « **Reply #880 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:15:28 PM »

Here's a good look at the inlet heater grid:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #881 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:16:02 PM »

Then the other end is unbolted using a 19mm wrench

Flyin6 · « **Reply #882 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:17:10 PM »

Then the front lines come off

Flyin6 · « **Reply #883 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:18:29 PM »

Followed by the back

Flyin6 · « **Reply #884 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:19:22 PM »

Next, the fuel return line comes off

Flyin6 · « **Reply #885 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:20:12 PM »

And finally the injectors themselves

Flyin6 · « **Reply #886 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:21:06 PM »

Mine came right out
With the new head and having just been assembled this part of the task was easy
The new injectors came with new collars as well, so installation was a snap

Flyin6 · « **Reply #887 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:21:39 PM »

They get torqued in at 45 ft/lbs

Flyin6 · « **Reply #888 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:22:19 PM »

After tapping the rubber O-Rings back into the recess in the collar, the injectors are officially installed

I want to clean up the injection lines to see if I can remove all the paint and show off the stainless steel. I also want to check them thoroughly for chaffing or cracks

Flyin6 · « **Reply #889 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:23:05 PM »

Looking at how well that valve cover turned out, I eyed the intake elbow and decided to scratch it down with steel wool

Flyin6 · « **Reply #890 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:23:37 PM »

And after some drying time thar she goes!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #891 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:26:03 PM »

Well, even though my back feels like there is some welding going on back there, I'm still pressing forward

Parts orderin'

I picked up a set of B&D Diesel intercooler and hose silicone boots and super duper clamps for when that IC finally finds itself front and center ahead of that stormin engine. Thanks to Holton over at Alligator Diesel again!

I have also been spending hours and hours combing through the transmission builder information.

I am ordering a ton of parts.

I interviewed a few builders and after a lot of thought, decided to build it meself of myself, well, I'm doin' it

Flyin6 · « **Reply #892 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:26:30 PM »

So, transmission...
Interviewed some really great companies.
None bad in the least
Gorend
Dynotech
SunCoast
The purple part people

After all that I had acquired a lot of good information and met some knowledgeable people. But I felt the firm "Click" of things falling in place when I talked to Andrew and Ernie at Sun Coast in Flordia.

So they will be supplying the parts for this build. Something Andrew, a former combat Marine said made a ton of sense. He encouraged me to learn how to do it myself so in future times, I can also fix it myself

SO here's a partial list of what I will be getting/doing to improve that transmission to a near indestructible state

6 pinion planetary gearset
shift kit
steel stator
Steel flex plate
Custom lower stall converter
Billet servo
Billet accumulator
47RE intermediate shaft
Billet input shaft
Direct clutch pace from 4 to 6 clutches
Front servo 5:1 apply lever
Billet band strut and apply levers
Sonnex spring plate
Longer overdrive clutch spring
48RE direct O.D. clutches (23 in lieu of the factory 8!)
New sprag clutch
OD clutch added clutch/steels
+ 4 quart oil pan
15 degree O.D. sun gear

I'll also pick up some special tools and a factory service manual

There is a lot more stuff going into this build, but's that's the strong stuff
Expect to see the red clutches a solid band new bushings and a few other goodies.

And

Expect to see about a thousand pics of all that ruckus right here!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #893 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:27:16 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasRedNeck View Post
It'd been easier if you'd have just gone stick....

There was a big discussion earlier about why I'm not using a stick

In summary

I've been in a few crashes, aircraft and vehicle...and a few scraps.

One thing I noticed is almost no one gets out unscathed with many a broken arm and leg.

So can you drive a stick with a broken leg?

An automatic?

That's pretty why I made the decision

Flyin6 · « **Reply #894 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:28:43 PM »

OK back is still inop, but doing back exercises (Uber painful) tonight I actually stood up straight! First time in 2 weeks!

But I am not wasting time. Reading hours a day about transmissions and getting good advice from readers here like ChrisLib, thanks.

I am in the acquisition process at the moment ordering both new stuff and good used parts from EBay.
I now plan to build what amounts to a hydraulically controlled 48RE (48RH???) stuffed inside an ancient A518 case with a fluid coupling converter, although it will be a lower stall unit.

So that process is ongoing and I am looking at rebuilding the NP205 transfer case as well. All good oil changes should include a rebuilding of the transfer case!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #895 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:29:34 PM »

Quote:
Originally Posted by FBJR View Post
I am afraid to ask what the approx cost is of just the trans parts, but probably heading more or less the same way.

As for the 205, it is so easy you could do it in your sleep. About the hardest thing is getting the right number of needle bearings to stay where you want.

Definitely over 3K, possibly over 4K
clutches, steels, seals and the like are not too bad, dunno but $600ish.
Converter $600-$700
Billet shafts upwards of 2K+
Special tools are around $250
Assortment of all the other parts (drums, accumulators small billet parts...), which I can find used with time, probably near a grand
Shift kit $150
Flywheel $300??
Deep Pan $300.

But this transmission will be close to the ultimate. It should be able to handle almost anything I throw at it. With normal driving it should last forever. It follows the model for folks who do 25psi boosted launches!

NP205 parts around $200ish

Flyin6 · « **Reply #896 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:31:16 PM »

Well. as my back sorts things out I am getting little things done

I wanted to inspect the condition of the fuel injection lines, so I had to remove the 2 layers of paint that had accumulated there

Paint stripper works fast, removing both old paint and spots of skin on my legs!

Flyin6 · « **Reply #897 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:32:03 PM »

May not look like very much, but after all the paint remover work, I had to "Sand" each individual line with 00 fine steel wool to get everything off

Flyin6 · « **Reply #898 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:32:48 PM »

There was only one area where some chaffing took place to be the least bit concerned about, so I painted them up and will reinstall

Flyin6 · « **Reply #899 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:33:36 PM »

While I was making a mess, I wanted to get the old paint off the block mounted transmission fluid/fluid heat exchanger. The "Goop" took a bit longer, but did it's chemical work just as well