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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #500 on: October 09, 2016, 10:56:24 PM »
So this weekend I used to to haul plants and mulch and ordered new LED tailights of the same style as i put on the LML.  Someone put 2003 tail lights on it and they are showing some wear.  These should look good.

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #501 on: October 09, 2016, 11:02:03 PM »
I like the LEDs. I like the Chevy lights vs my GMC style but haven't changed em yet.

Not saying he need barings, just figured do em all if apart that far.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #502 on: October 12, 2016, 10:34:28 AM »
I wouldn't necessarily change them out. I do push the full bearing kit to my regular customers because 90% of them haven't even changed the gear oil until this point, so everything is suspect, but for someone on this site, maintenance is a creed more than a chore and most likely if he hasn't got any issues now, they are like new and a lot more labor intensive than just installing the new locker.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #503 on: October 12, 2016, 10:37:46 PM »
So Tate is there a manual available that gives all the proceedures and specs on the AAM?

Wait, I bought all five volumes of the GM shop manuals for the 2001 back in 2001.  I'll be the drivetrain book will have the pics and specs and proceedures...I'll have to look at them this weekend.
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #504 on: October 12, 2016, 11:48:20 PM »
Post those specs please for the front and rear. I am doing both mine soon (4.56)
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Offline swbhobie16

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #505 on: October 13, 2016, 10:08:21 AM »
Post those specs please for the front and rear. I am doing both mine soon (4.56)

5/4 ton CUCV axles and done!

Offline EL TATE

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #506 on: October 13, 2016, 01:09:41 PM »
11.5 Rear
0.055 thou recommended starting shim thickness
20-30 in/lbs rolling resistance for pinion bearing preload w/ new bearings
8-11 in/lbs with used bearings
.006-.010 thou backlash
175 ft/lbs torque r/g bolts
200 ft/lbs torque bearing cap bolts

9.25 Front
.032 thou recommended starting shim thickness
15-22 in/lbs rolling resistance for pinion bearing preload w/ new bearings
7-9 in/lbs with used bearings
.005-.007 thou backlash
103 ft/lbs torque r/g bolts
63 ft/lbs torque bearing cap bolts

Tips;

A note on the rear and front carrier bearings; you physically cannot over-torque the carrier adjusters. get it as tight as humanly possible and drive home the lock tab. this will generate preload on the bearings and pre-flexion (if that's a thing) on the housing so that when you hammer down, the ring gear isn't driven away from the pinion gear allowing it to ride out on the weaker tips of the teeth.

Removing the driver's side front stub shaft is a HUGE PITA. I recommend a long punch, remove the breather assembly and go from the inside against the end of the stub shaft while someone that's fatter than you and you don't like too much beats the living piss out of the other end with a slide hammer. keep things oriented straight and it will usually come out without breaking the housing half or being sliced in half w/ mr plazma.
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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #507 on: October 13, 2016, 01:21:21 PM »
Thanks Tate, saved!

I have heard the front stub is a pain. Nice thing is I bought another to do the swap so I will have it ready for my lift.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #508 on: October 13, 2016, 10:24:45 PM »
Tate, I'm so destructive, I can break a bowling ball so saying I can't over torque something.....well, I've yet to find something I can't break.  Of course at my age now I might separate a rib in the process.....
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline stlaser

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #509 on: October 13, 2016, 10:43:08 PM »
TRN, you would have fit right in at my old shop...... ;D
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #510 on: October 13, 2016, 10:57:33 PM »
Maybe I'll fit in at the new one......  :-0

« Last Edit: October 14, 2016, 08:57:25 AM by stlaser »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #511 on: October 13, 2016, 11:03:55 PM »
I thought the same on those nuts. I know I can put more preload than is called for. Just like a 9.5 and that was easy!
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Offline stlaser

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #512 on: October 14, 2016, 08:58:27 AM »
Maybe I'll fit in at the new one......  :-0

Neg, I've sworn off knucklehead & non knucklehead employees for the remainder of my life! ;D
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline EL TATE

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #513 on: October 14, 2016, 01:38:00 PM »
9" ford for example: 185lb guy hanging off a 3 ft breaker bar with a floor jack handle extension bouncing up and down. Me, "isn't that a little excessive?" Him, "probably not enough actually". TRN, you might damage the adjuster nut or the tool being used to turn it, but you're trying to compress the rollers in the bearing vertically. I'm sure you could come up with a contraption to break it, but with common hand tools it's pretty tough... never mind. Challenge initiated.
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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #514 on: October 14, 2016, 02:53:01 PM »
He-He-He, yes it can be broken!!!
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #515 on: October 15, 2016, 08:53:02 PM »
So. Prepped and painted my aux tank today. POR15. Also watching it idle going on 30 minutes at the moment as the GM injector cleaning does it's thing.






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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline Bigdave_185

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The Bus
« Reply #516 on: October 16, 2016, 08:03:51 PM »
How many gallons ?

It took my truck a little over two hours to drink down the mix of injector cleaner


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« Last Edit: October 16, 2016, 08:04:33 PM by Bigdave_185 »

Offline TexasRedNeck

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The Bus
« Reply #517 on: October 16, 2016, 08:28:06 PM »
40 gallons. Got it for free off an oil field truck.

2:48 to drink it all up
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« Last Edit: October 16, 2016, 08:40:55 PM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline swbhobie16

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #518 on: October 16, 2016, 08:56:03 PM »
are y'all running anything in your fuel to help with lubricity/extending injector life by reducing the harsh conditions under which they live?

had a guy that rebuilt my VE pump on the 1st gen cummins tell me ~16oz of power steering fluid per 3 tanks of fuel. i run ~10oz of 2 stroke motor oil in my powerstroke when i fill up at my buddies shop.

just curious. didn't mean to DOT.. but we seem to be on injectors. hahah

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #519 on: October 16, 2016, 08:57:37 PM »
I use opti lube summer blend. On a mechanical pump old transmission fluid seems to get a nod.


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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline swbhobie16

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #520 on: October 16, 2016, 09:20:03 PM »
I use opti lube summer blend. On a mechanical pump old transmission fluid seems to get a nod.


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i think the guy told me power steering fluid so i wouldn't run the risk of dying the tank red. he said either would work, but PS fluid is clear. hahah

it usually gets some oil in there as well. going to work on a filter system (2 filter heads. 10 micron and 2 micron filters) just bc i can get my hands on oil (generator services)

norm told me he ran a whole tank of trans fluid through patch one time and it didn't phase it at all. hahaha.

as long as it doesn't have gunk it in.. i think a cummins will run it

a friend of my dad's has a 7.3 that he runs 1/2 fuel 1/2 motor oil (18 wheeler mechanic) and it doesn't skip a beat.

Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #521 on: October 16, 2016, 09:46:39 PM »
I run 1 quart of 2 cycle wally oil, about 1 pint per fill or 5 gal of soy oil per 50 gal fill.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #522 on: October 17, 2016, 08:44:41 AM »
I use 8oz of Diesel Kleen every fill up religiously


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Offline longball

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The Bus
« Reply #523 on: October 26, 2016, 05:58:03 PM »
I use 8oz of Diesel Kleen every fill up religiously


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Have you tried the Xtreme Diesel fuel additive? I started using it about three years ago because it was quite a bit cheaper and it seems to do well, based on the lack of water in my separator. Each bottle (around $9) treat 500 gallons if I remember correctly.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/XDP-Diesel-Power-Plus-Fuel-Additive-XDDPP116.aspx


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« Last Edit: October 26, 2016, 06:00:38 PM by longball »

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #524 on: November 29, 2016, 11:19:30 PM »
so got the rear lights installed

Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

Joshua 6:20-24

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #525 on: November 29, 2016, 11:20:51 PM »
and JDM AStar LEDs in the back up to go with the dually knock offs
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #526 on: November 29, 2016, 11:38:35 PM »
Euro's on a Dmax? Looks good,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Ready for a HD rear bumper now!
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #527 on: November 30, 2016, 10:37:36 AM »
I use 8oz of Diesel Kleen every fill up religiously


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Have you tried the Xtreme Diesel fuel additive? I started using it about three years ago because it was quite a bit cheaper and it seems to do well, based on the lack of water in my separator. Each bottle (around $9) treat 500 gallons if I remember correctly.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/XDP-Diesel-Power-Plus-Fuel-Additive-XDDPP116.aspx


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i have not. Will look into that one


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Offline Farmer Jon

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #528 on: December 04, 2016, 10:15:50 AM »
So update. Changing the filters on the AD was the fix for the no start. Apparently something was allowing the fuel to drain back. At least now I have a filter head and can manually prime if needed.

Today I installed some cheap LED lights in the bumper for backup lights.








Taped off marked it cut it with cut off wheel on mini grinder drilled holes spliced wires.


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Are these the ones you got? I think I would want to put them on a switch. This will be really good for hooking up trailers at night.  How do you like them so far?

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Lights-Tacoma-Warranty/dp/B00J5AAX5S/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480863155&sr=1-17&keywords=light+bar
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #529 on: December 04, 2016, 12:16:23 PM »
Tex, what did you do as far as rust inhibitor for your fresh cut holes? The chrome acts as that but not on the edges you exposed


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Offline Sammconn

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #530 on: December 04, 2016, 12:28:44 PM »
I have similar on my rear bumper. Thought about switch and decided against it.
Reason being if the only come on in reverse you'll have less chance flashing someone behind you that's ticked you off for whatever reason.
Solution to keeping them on, shut off engine and leave in reverse, they stay on for a while and sure does help hooking up.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline Farmer Jon

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #531 on: December 04, 2016, 12:55:40 PM »
The reason I was thinking about a switch is if I'm backing my 5th wheel up at night. I would think it would glare and i wouldn't be able to see anything in the mirrors. But maybe not. If it don't then that would simplify things.
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Re: The Bus
« Reply #532 on: December 04, 2016, 02:20:49 PM »
What I've noticed backing up is better visibility.

This was with black boat and black carhauler.
5er may change things.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Sam

Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #533 on: December 04, 2016, 07:15:19 PM »
6KLED C418 Flush mount Off Road Lighting 18w Cree Flood Bumper 4x4 Truck Raptor Tacoma Silverado F250 Super-Duty Bumper Lighting Work Lights Flush Mount Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2CK3RS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RdlrybJKQ7NYA

Dave. We don't have rust in Texas.  I didn't do anything to them but if I'd been worried I'd have POR the opening.

The above link is what I bought. So far I really like them.  I will be putting them on the cargo switch circuit with diodes so not to back feed to the reverse lights.


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Offline Farmer Jon

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #534 on: December 04, 2016, 09:23:10 PM »
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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #535 on: December 05, 2016, 01:47:30 AM »
No rust? You have rain, you have exposed untreated metal, you have rust!
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #536 on: December 05, 2016, 06:50:26 PM »
I just siliconed mine in, on the original chrome bumper. Never rusted.
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Re: The Bus
« Reply #537 on: December 07, 2016, 11:30:00 AM »
If that tank see's sunlight... top coat that POR 15 it will chalk and fade quickly. JD blitz black with harder will hold up well and is cheap.


Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #538 on: December 08, 2016, 12:36:28 AM »
Koot that POR is the one coat uv resistant variety. So far so good.


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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #539 on: January 06, 2018, 10:37:04 AM »
Been a while since I’ve updated here.  Not much Happening other than maintenance.

Installed a Beans Sump and replaced the motor on the AD165 under warranty.

Changed the oil and rotated tires. 

Replaced all the color matched door handles with standard black ones since the lock cylinder got punched out of one by a would be thief.  Had to rebuild the lock cylinder too.

Washer pump went out so I had to pull the battery tray.  Had some of the caliper paint left over and I decided to paint the tray since it was rusting.  (just for you, Norm)

Had a rear window regulator go bad.  Bought an AC delco on Amazon.  Ordered the right instead of the left.  Decided to keep it since I had replaced both the fronts  before putting the dynamat sound deadener in, and with replacing the left rear, the only one that is not new will be the right and I'm sure it will die sooner or later....

Now, since I had already dynamatted the rear doors, opening them up to get to the regulator was a royal pain....

But got it done.

Then the instrument cluster PRNDL and odometer display quit working.  Dave, Ryan, Kyle and others, pay attention here.  Known defect in the OBS trucks.  One solder joint breaks and repairing it is pretty straighforward.

Got that done this morning.  5 minutes to pull the cluster, 5 minutes to disassemble.  30 minutes to locate readers and magnifying glasses and a soldering iron I misplaced...2 minutes to solder and 5 minutes to reinstall.

Now the hydroboost is leaking and I bought one but havent had time to mess with it yet.

I've spent 4 months working on the Casita and not much other than maintenance on the 4 vehicles are getting done.








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« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 11:15:25 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #540 on: January 06, 2018, 11:07:43 AM »
Noted!   


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Offline rpar86

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #541 on: January 07, 2018, 12:41:40 AM »
The cluster on the lb7 is different than the lly and lbz, but noted!


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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #542 on: January 07, 2018, 01:28:58 AM »
Man don't scare me with all that. Had really none of those issues.

Guess I will pull mine and check that. Still no inst lights, but it all works. Wonder if its a relay or a broken wire from the DIC.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 01:30:28 AM by JR »
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Re: The Bus
« Reply #543 on: January 07, 2018, 06:22:24 AM »
That battery tray is..... delightful  :grin:

Offline TexasRedNeck

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The Bus
« Reply #544 on: January 07, 2018, 08:38:08 AM »
JR. Instrument lights are analog and incandescent so you should be able to trace the circuit board path to the connector at the top and put an ohm meter to confirm which pin it is at the top. Then turn on you lights and see if you have power at that connector. That will narrow it to either the cluster or wiring

Just for you Norm!!

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« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 08:39:11 AM by TexasRedNeck »
Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

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Offline rpar86

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #545 on: January 07, 2018, 11:48:56 AM »
Tex, problem with our panels (03+) is that the lights are soldered in. They don’t remove with a twist like the 01-02. Should still be able to trace it like you say, but replacing bulbs is a pain.


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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #546 on: January 07, 2018, 11:58:32 AM »
Duly noted


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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #547 on: January 07, 2018, 09:44:35 PM »
Just rambling there. I have pulled the dash and the lights work when jumped so it is wiring someplace. I'm thinking a plug for some reason.

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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #548 on: January 07, 2018, 10:13:51 PM »
did you check for voltage at the connector on the lighting pin when the lights are on?
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Offline JR

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Re: The Bus
« Reply #549 on: January 08, 2018, 12:27:15 AM »
Yep, no power. Now that I learned it goes through the BCM to the dash, I need to trace in and out. Just haven't had the time lately.

Think its in the wiring from the BCM to the dash. I have other dash lights, the dimmer works, just no dash-4x4 lights.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 12:29:25 AM by JR »
Retired LEO  Lifetime NRA+  Outcast in Calif

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