REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: rcampbell on August 14, 2016, 08:38:25 AM
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Hi everyone, I've been collecting parts for my trailer build. I got two 3500lb axles yesterday, I have a 7000lb drop leg jack, and a trailer light kit. Will be getting the springs today likely.
Was just looking for some opinions on the build, if anyone has done something similar. I've build a 5x8 trailer out of angle, and a 5x10 out of square tube, so I'm excited for the project. I think the channel is the way to go, since up here in Canada it's easier to treat rust if it's not on the inside of a square tube.
I plan to use this to be able to haul a car, but also general purpose use like lumber, atv's etc.
Was also wondering about paint, thought about trying to 2-part epoxy paint (KlassKote).
Any helpful hints would be great!
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Well, I'm probably opening a can of worms but I would go 5200lb axles. With the weight of the trailer and stuff that only leaves about 4500-5000 lb in capacity with 3500lb axles.
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Yeah, I may someday, but I have to stick with 3500 axles for now. I may build the trailer so that it can handle 10K GVW, and swap them out someday though. It seems like most car haulers I've looked at use the same material for 7K and 10K trailers.
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That's a good plan. Post up progress. Im Contemplating a gooseneck build and want to pick up some tips from you.
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I've built several trailers over the years. If you have specific questions post them up. I'll keep an eye on this build & if I see any huge concerns I'll be sure to harass you about them.....
As TRN said go gooseneck if you can, muy better all around......
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Perfect, thanks for the help! I'll be sure to get some pics up soon. Next step is to finalize decision on length and get steel ordered. I'm thinking 18' deck might be ideal for me. 16' seems a little short, and I dont think I would need 20'. Won't be able to go gooseneck on this one, will need the box of the truck for other things unfortunately.
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Steel is sold in 20-24' lengths, just saying..... ;)
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My initial thought was go more than 3500 lb axles also. I purchased a used car hauler last year real cheap. I needed something that I could take to and from the lumber yard to get 20 ft lumber home, stacks of drywall etc.. I plan to swap the axles out and beef it up in a few spots to make it a little more reliable of a equipment trailer. I was hoping to (2) 5200 lb axles but got a steel on a couple 4400 lb take-offs.
I've also been looking into and considering buying or building either a 14,000 gooseneck or bumper pull. Below is a sheet I put together of some of the major brands and what they use for materials at certain weight ratings. I included the 14/16000 lb info for TRN. I would go channel frame with channel cross members. For a 10,000 lb trailer I think you could get by with a 5" channel frame and 3" channel cross-members.
Kaufman Trailer
10,000 6" channel Frame 12000 5" channel Frame 15000 4x6x3/8 Angle Frame
5" channel Tongue **Must block under rear of trailer to load heavy 5" channel Tongue 14000 6" channel Frame 6" channel Tongue
3" channel on 24" centers 3" channel on 24" centers 6" channel Tongue 3" channel on 16" centers
3" channel on 24" centers
10,000 6" channel Frame 12000 6" channel Frame 15000 4x7x3/8 Angle Frame
5" channel Tongue 5" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3" channel on 16" 3" channel on 16" centers 14000 6" channel Frame 3" channel on 16" centers crossmembers
6" channel Tongue
10,000 5" channel Frame 3" channel on 24" centers 15000 6" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 12000 6" channel Frame 6" channel Tongue
3" channel on 24" centers 6" channel Tongue 3" channel on 24" centers
3" channel on 24" centers
10,000 6" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 12000 6" channel Frame 17000 6" channel Frame
3" channel on 24" centers 6" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3" channel on 24" centers 3" channel on 16" centers
10000 4x6x5/16 Angle Frame
5" channel Tongue
3" channel on 16" centers
PJ Trailer
10000 5" channel Frame 14000 6" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue feet $/ft cost
3" channel on 16" centers 3" channel on 16" centers
Bix Tex Trailers
10000 5"x3"x1/4" Angle Frame 14000 5"x3"x5/16" Angle Frame
5" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3"x2"x3/16" Angle Crossmembers 3" channel on 16" centers
Wood Deck
10000 5" channel Frame 14000 6" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3" channel Crossmembers 3" channel on 24" centers
10000 5"x2"x3/16" Tubing 14000 6" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3" channel Crossmembers 3" channel on 16" centers
Steel Deck
Load Trail
10000 5" channel Frame 14000 6" I-beam
5" channel Tongue single tier frame and tongue
3" channel Crossmembers 3" channel on 16" centers
10000 4x6 angle Frame 14000 4x6 angle Frame
6" channel Tongue 6" channel Tongue
3" channel on 16" centers 3" channel on 16" centers
10000 5" channel Frame 14000 8" channel Frame
5" channel Tongue 8" channel Tongue
3" channel Crossmembers 3" channel on 16" centers
If anybody wants the spread sheet all this info is in send me an email to send to.
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So, I built one a few years ago.
2 X 9 tube, and 2 X 3 1/2 tube.
Used tube as it was free, from Walmart of course.
I went with 3500# axles because I got them dirt cheap.
I am currently waiting to have some spare bucks to upgrade them to 5200 or 6000 pounders.
I've bent two front axles now, and it's done major service for me until upgraded.
It got the heck beat out of it once loaded, with me going too fast, on one a me was bent empty, bad bump, and huge bounce.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/trailer/IMG_0606.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/trailer/IMG_0606.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/trailer/IMG_0607.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/trailer/IMG_0607.jpg.html)
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/sammconn/trailer/IMG_0627.jpg) (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/sammconn/media/trailer/IMG_0627.jpg.html)
So, if you already have the 3500's then bear in mind what some of the others have said about payload. Watch for bad bumps and you'll be good for a while. I've had some serious loads on mine over the years, and they will work. Just beat in mind one day you'll need to replace them. They are too light for the size you're building. Which is the size of mine, 16' flat, 2' beaver tail.
I do recommend having a look at the third picture, I have tie points in the centre space on every crossmember. You can never have enough, and I wish I'd've put a few more.
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What size tube do you have on the tongue there? It seems small compared to your 9" frame.
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It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.
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It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.
Do you think? lol
Hey, my favorite saying is "if it's free, it's for me!"...especially when it comes to metal.
..and x1000 on the tie down points. you can never have enough. My open trailer is a Big Tex 8k, built out of angle, so I have plenty of places to hook to, but with tubing, hook placement is a bit limited.
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For a 10,000 lb trailer I think you could get by with a 5" channel frame and 3" channel cross-members.
Yes 5" channel rails and tongue with 3" channel cross members was what I was thinking I'd use. I likely won't ever go bigger than a 10K trailer since my Sierra can't haul bigger than that anyway.
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It's 2 X 4 .250".
Was all I had available. Has been sufficient so far.
The 2 X 9 is likely overkill.
The 2x9 is definitely overkill. The 2x4-1/4 is probably ok for a 10,000lb trailer but might be on the edge.
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Yes 5" channel rails and tongue with 3" channel cross members was what I was thinking I'd use. I likely won't ever go bigger than a 10K trailer since my Sierra can't haul bigger than that anyway.
How long do you plan to go? With 3500 lb axles and wanting to use it as a car hauler I would put some serious thought into the minimum length you need. The un-used length will just bite into your overall capacity. On the other hand depending on what you are using for a tow vehicle ideally you would like some extra deck space to get a balanced load.
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Yes that was part of my thought process for sure. I currently have no car that I would regularly haul with the trailer, but would want it more for utility trailer type uses in the short term. I originally thought 18' because I figured it might give enough room to move a car back and forth a little if I need to adjust tongue weight etc, I thought 16' might be on the short side and not provide as much room to move weight around. I thought maybe 20' would be more weight, but not much more benefit, but I guess it's really only like 250 or 300 lbs in the difference.
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I would build it for the 3500# axles you have, when done sell it & build one with larger axles.
So 3500# axles use 4 pcs of 4" channel front to back for the deck & 3" channel is fine for cross pieces even 2x3 1/4" angle will suffice here as well....... Tongue can be 4" channel as well, if you plan on overloading it go to 5" on the tongue.
At the rate you're going your frame will be so heavy you can't haul anything w/o over loading the axles.
I'd also buy 20's for the 4" channel & cut them to around 16' with a 3-3.5' dovetail (whatever you can get from the 20'er)
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What do you mean 4 pieces front to back? Like four 20 foot long pieces of 4" channel? Or just 4" around the perimeter? If I used 4" channel for the main rails, the 2x8" planks won't slide between the top of the cross member and the lip of the main rail, which isn't needed, but is nice to help hold them. Would you have a drawing maybe you could share?
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This is sort of what I was going to model it after. Weight doesn't seem too bad on the 18 footer, even with 5" channel. Not sure what would be the weight difference with 4" channel though.
http://loadtrail.com/index.php/trailers/car-haulers-bob-cats/details/?model=CH07&&desc=Carhauler+7%2C000+Lb+w%2F5%22+Channel+Frame&&title=Car-Haulers%20and%20Bob%20Cats
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What do you mean 4 pieces front to back? Like four 20 foot long pieces of 4" channel? Or just 4" around the perimeter? If I used 4" channel for the main rails, the 2x8" planks won't slide between the top of the cross member and the lip of the main rail, which isn't needed, but is nice to help hold them. Would you have a drawing maybe you could share?
If it were me & this is a car hauler first & utility trailer second. Yes, I would run 4pcs of 4" channel front to back. They would not be equally spaced, it's a car hauler first (if you're hauling lumber etc, get 2 or 3 4x4 posts to span center section. So you would have a single piece of 4" channel on the outside front to back then come in 16" - 24" or so from each outside rail & run the other two 4" channels front to rear parallel to outside rail. Front & rear of the frame can be angle or flat for that matter. I'm thinking weight first & heaviest duty second due to your axles. All the front and rear of frame is doing is holding the spread along with angle or channel pieces that will cross the trailer side to side across where the wheels of the vehicle you're hauling will sit.
My cad computer is in the shop right now or I could draw it up nice with dimensions & even figure cut angles for dovetail etc. along with bom.....
Idea is to use material w/ least amount of drop getting largest trailer possible you need to do job & lightest weight because of axles.
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Shawn, that seems like overkill for a 7k trailer. Just sayin'. I know you like to do things overkill (as well do I) but the idea is to be able to haul the heaviest weight with the least amount of trailer weight as possible and still be safe. I'll weight for your lashing. :)
18' is a perfect length car hauler imo. I've used the 3 common ones quite a bit..16, 18, and 20. the 20 always drags...always. The 16 is short for hauling trucks. The 18 will fit our trucks and still have room for movement.
Again, just my opinions.
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Ken, I was figuring for a 20' trailer. I agree it can be built lighter, 3" channel will hold most likely. Also I didn't specify on what centers for the angle or c front to rear & they are not crossing the whole trailer side to side only under the ramps. Center of trailer is open or expanded metal.
We used to build race car trailers 16' with no suspension out of 3" c & 2x2 angle but it was for stock cars. Surprisingly we never broke anything and hauled those cars all over.....
I don't recall him telling me what vehicle he was hauling so I figured 4" was safe go between the 3" & what they were talking about.
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I would build like the one in your link. A 20 ft piece down each side and one on each side for the tongue wrapping back to the axles. 4 or 5" channel. Either is fine. Doesn't sound like you will be pushing it very hard often so maybe 4 to keep weight down. I believe would put yoir cross members on 24" centers. If your loading a heavy vehicle you can always put an extra plank down to spread the weight out more if needed.
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Ken, I was figuring for a 20' trailer. I agree it can be built lighter, 3" channel will hold most likely. Also I didn't specify on what centers for the angle or c front to rear & they are not crossing the whole trailer side to side only under the ramps. Center of trailer is open or expanded metal.
I don't recall him telling me what vehicle he was hauling so I figured 4" was safe go between the 3" & what they were talking about.
Gotcha. I can see clearly now, the rain is gone.
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I will definitely be going with a wooden plank deck (no open center section), and had originally figured on a 5" channel frame and tongue with 3" channel cross members that span the full width of the trailer, spaced at 16" front to back. The biggest vehicles I could see me hauling in the near future would be some atvs, or a car or a small 4x4 like a TJ or a small toyota truck.
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I will definitely be going with a wooden plank deck (no open center section), and had originally figured on a 5" channel frame and tongue with 3" channel cross members that span the full width of the trailer, spaced at 16" front to back. The biggest vehicles I could see me hauling in the near future would be some atvs, or a car or a small 4x4 like a TJ or a small toyota truck.
Have you calculated the weight of all of this steel yet?
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Yeah, considering just the steel portion of the trailer, it is about 6.7 lbs/ft for 5"channel and 3.5 lbs/ft for 3" channel. Given an overestimate of 100' of each is 670+350 = 1020 lbs, for just steel in the frame and cross members.
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Finally this thread is continuing with some progress! I got some steel today!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4068/35701114556_e260bccc48_z.jpg)
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Revived!!
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I cut the 4 pieces of 5" channel that make the perimeter of the frame. I was originally going to put the sides with the flat side out, and butt them against the front and end pieces which would have the flange out. I'm wondering now if I should miter them all at 45 deg and have the flat side out all the way around. Any thoughts from the welders here?
I guess it's really more of a T-joint I'm planning on. Cut the front and the rear piece 3/8" too wide to that there'd be 3/16" on each side for a little more meat to weld into. Thought this might be better versus a corner joint there it would be flush.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/34986593724_579717b997_o.jpg)
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If using channel for the frame, I personally like the C facing inward or flat side out. The only reason I prefer it this way is for attaching 4" straps for tying down steel. The hook on this straps wraps over the side and under hooking into the open C facing inward. Structurally the C doesn't care which way it faces.
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I will have the flat side out for the sides, but thought I might put the "C" part out for the ends just because it can be a bit of a pain to get the fitment right on a 45 mitre. Good point about being able to use the flanges to hook onto though, I never really thought to do that before.
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I would do the front and rear the same way so that you can strap to them. Not sure what you have for tools to work with but I would cut one rail to fit inside to the other. This approach gives for area to weld.
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Any coping would be with cut off wheels. I have a 4" grinder and a 5" grinder and a chop saw.
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I would do the front and rear the same way so that you can strap to them. Not sure what you have for tools to work with but I would cut one rail to fit inside to the other. This approach gives for area to weld.
This ^^^^^^ Not sure on strength difference at joint per say and definitely more work but I personally think it makes a cleaner build. If you drill a couple strategically placed holes to start and use cut off wheels on a grinder you should easily be able to cut the profile on the ends of the channel that fit inside the other.
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You would be getting weld in multiple planes instead of only a single plane. If you just do a miter all your cut/ welds are on a single plane. If you notch to fit inside each other you have weld in multiple planes. Not only do you increase the amount of area welded but arguably you increase the quality of the welds. Instead of just having a flat butt joint on the mitered edges you have a T-joint where you notched them to fit.
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Ok that makes sense to me. Would it matter which one get's coped? I only ask because it's likely easier to wrangle the 7' piece rather than the 18' piece of steel.
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So Bear, just as an example, you're describing something like in this picture with the coped joint correct?
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/2f/01/1b/2f011b90fd038747a0ef2d00ef2a26a4.jpg)
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Yes. If you wanted to get fancy you and probably for the strongest joint you could cope the top side of one leg and the bottom of the other. In reality it matters very little which one.
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Yes. If you wanted to get fancy you and probably for the strongest joint you could cope the top side of one leg and the bottom of the other. In reality it matters very little which one.
:likebutton:
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Well, I didn't "get fancy". But I did get the side pieces coped to fit into the end pieces. I tried to leave a small gap to help with welding penetration, I think it turned out ok. Here's some pics of the two front corners.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35046110523_561aacc3e0_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35046110573_e173d7224d_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4284/35046110643_e5c5845a67_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35046110693_649332b010_z.jpg)
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Nothing wrong with that. Looks good.
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Fit looks good. I would just suggest you hit the welded areas with a grinder to clean up to raw metal before welding. Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of a chamfer to the thick part of the flange also to get full penetration on your welds.
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Looks like a fun project and your fit looks great. Welding and fabrication are skills I am currently lacking in. I'm hoping to get a welding rig in the semi near future when I get into the more spacious garage. It's something I've always wanted to learn and try my hand at.
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Fit looks good. I would just suggest you hit the welded areas with a grinder to clean up to raw metal before welding. Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of a chamfer to the thick part of the flange also to get full penetration on your welds.
Yessir that's the plan. I have some flap wheels I got to try out for cleaning off surface rust etc.
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Good copin'!
Not like how the libs are copin' with trump
Not like that at all!
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I wouldn't waste good money on flap wheels. I would just clean it up with a hard wheel. Mill scale can be hard to grind off. If you want to make it look pretty go back and remove all the grinding marks from the hard wheel before paint where they are visible.
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I wouldn't waste good money on flap wheels. I would just clean it up with a hard wheel. Mill scale can be hard to grind off. If you want to make it look pretty go back and remove all the grinding marks from the hard wheel before paint where they are visible.
X2 ^^^^^^^
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Got a corner squared up and held in place, was going to tack it and see how it looked. Got the welder, wheel it over, went to plug it in....need about 10 more feet of cable :(
Will get an extension and get at it tomorrow hopefully!
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I picked up a welder extension cord today so that I could continue my work and get things tacked up and in place.
I started first on one of the back corners. I check for level side-to-side, front-to-back, and up-and-down, and also squared the corners. Everything is looking pretty good so far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4258/35068540594_fbbf36a9cc_o.jpg)
I then cut a couple cross members and got those tacked into place as well. All the while checking that the main frame was staying level and square, as well as the cross members themselves.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35867677966_0b2a570b31_o.jpg)
Btw...anyone ever tack up a crossmember, and then afterwords remember that you start by building the trailer upside down? Yeah...me neither...
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Haha, the upside down trick.
When I did mine, built it right side up.
Was a pain with some of it, but flipping it over wasn't happening.
Are you dropping the cross members so the decking is flush with sides (looks that way with the 2x4 under), or decking over the works?
I'm a fan of having steel at the top if you ever need to weld an extra anchor point or bracing.
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Maybe a dumb comment but you're using a measuring tape corner to corner to square the frame not that little 6" square right?
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Maybe a dumb comment but you're using a measuring tape corner to corner to square the frame not that little 6" square right?
Not a dumb comment.
I'd thought it and forgot to mention...
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Maybe a dumb comment but you're using a measuring tape corner to corner to square the frame not that little 6" square right?
Haha yes I will be, that was just the very first corner that was tacked, so was just checking it. I just tacked in a couple cross members for a little strength before I tack the front of the frame in since there's a slight bow in the long side pieces of channel. Just wanted to be sure when i adjusted them to get the front piece tacked in, it wouldn't bugger up the rear piece that I had tacked in already. But yeah, I'll be checking for overall sqaure-ness with a tape, corner to corner over the whole deck.
And yes, the wood decking will fit between the frame rail, and flush with the top of the rails.
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Maybe a dumb comment but you're using a measuring tape corner to corner to square the frame not that little 6" square right?
Haha yes I will be, that was just the very first corner that was tacked, so was just checking it. I just tacked in a couple cross members for a little strength before I tack the front of the frame in since there's a slight bow in the long side pieces of channel. Just wanted to be sure when i adjusted them to get the front piece tacked in, it wouldn't bugger up the rear piece that I had tacked in already. But yeah, I'll be checking for overall sqaure-ness with a tape, corner to corner over the whole deck.
And yes, the wood decking will fit between the frame rail, and flush with the top of the rails.
:likebutton: carry on then! :grin:
Edit: another thing that helps you keep square when in process building "large" structures is a 3,4,5 triangle (yeah, yeah, algebra who's ever gunna use that right?) but those numbers can be substituted for multiples of each number for even larger projects. If someone is not aware what I'm talking about I can lay out the math for you.
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:likebutton: carry on then! :grin:
Edit: another thing that helps you keep square when in process building "large" structures is a 3,4,5 triangle (yeah, yeah, geometry who's ever gunna use that right?) but those numbers can be substituted for multiples of each number (this is the algebra part) for even larger projects. If someone is not aware what I'm talking about I can lay out the math for you.
That first bit is actually geometry. Based of the Pythagorean Theorem. a2+b2=c2 Using this you can calculate the length of the hypotenuse of a right angle when you know the 2 leg lengths. Say your trailer is 20' long and 9' wide, instead of measuring across corners and matching them up you can calculate it out to be 21.9' from corner to corner.
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I've slowly but surely been making some progress. Got the front end of the frame tacked, and got some more cross members cut and tacked in place as well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35757619912_25c04d82b8_c.jpg)
Also, was checking square each time I tacked one in place, this looks good enough for this fella!
Rear left corner, to front right:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35886976596_2d3ba40f15_c.jpg)
Rear right corner, to front left:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35886977676_7a4a27defa_c.jpg)
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:likebutton: carry on then! :grin:
Edit: another thing that helps you keep square when in process building "large" structures is a 3,4,5 triangle (yeah, yeah, geometry who's ever gunna use that right?) but those numbers can be substituted for multiples of each number (this is the algebra part) for even larger projects. If someone is not aware what I'm talking about I can lay out the math for you.
That first bit is actually geometry. Based of the Pythagorean Theorem. a2+b2=c2 Using this you can calculate the length of the hypotenuse of a right angle when you know the 2 leg lengths. Say your trailer is 20' long and 9' wide, instead of measuring across corners and matching them up you can calculate it out to be 21.9' from corner to corner.
Hey hey hey. We are just a bunch of knuckle draggers here! No more of that smart math stuff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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:likebutton: carry on then! :grin:
Edit: another thing that helps you keep square when in process building "large" structures is a 3,4,5 triangle (yeah, yeah, geometry who's ever gunna use that right?) but those numbers can be substituted for multiples of each number (this is the algebra part) for even larger projects. If someone is not aware what I'm talking about I can lay out the math for you.
That first bit is actually geometry. Based of the Pythagorean Theorem. a2+b2=c2 Using this you can calculate the length of the hypotenuse of a right angle when you know the 2 leg lengths. Say your trailer is 20' long and 9' wide, instead of measuring across corners and matching them up you can calculate it out to be 21.9' from corner to corner.
First, are you related to Ken?
Second, I knew it was one of those classes I really disliked in school. Guess I assumed since it was an equation it was algebra..... I stand corrected though. :likebutton:
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Laid the springs and mounts onto the frame today to mark where they are going to go so that I can plan the locations of the cross-members in that area.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35898794956_dcf7ececd8_c.jpg)
Currently have all but 3 cross-members tacked into place. Need to get two more 7' pieces of 3" channel to finish it up.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35130365173_4bbbfe636a_c.jpg)
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Looking good and square!
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Just did some small things tonight. Got my spring mounts tacked on as you can see. Put a cross member right between the front spring mounts, and may put a small gusset on them too. Was reading that the biggest cause of torsional load no the side rails comes from the front axle, in a multi-axle setup, when the trailer is turning.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35797820312_8dfefc9e25_c.jpg)
I still need to weld in 3 cross members. I have one ready to go, but I will use it last since it's been my template for cutting the rest. I'll be putting one more between the front and rear spring mount, and two more in that wider gap.
Also cleaned up with spots on the 4 corners so that those can be stitched up any time. If I think I might be getting my new MIG soon, I will hold off and do it with that.
Next big thing will be either welding it all up solid and/or putting on the fully wrapped tongue. I'm not sure where exactly to make the bends in the tongue yet, but I'm guessing I'd basically lay the tongue up as if were going to be a 50 deg A-frame tongue, and instead of trimming the ends off they get bent around and welded to the bottom of the frame.
I'm also thing about 55" from the front of the deck to the tongue, sound like enough?
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I have about 54" from the front of the deck to the ball and that is more than enough.
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I have about 54" from the front of the deck to the ball and that is more than enough.
Ok, good to know. I was thinking it should be over 4 feet, so low-mid 50's made sense to me I guess.
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Looks great. Have you considered adding a torque tube down the centerline?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looks great. Have you considered adding a torque tube down the centerline?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Explain please
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https://www.pjtrailers.com/options/torque-tube/
I have not seen any examples of a torque tube or seen where it is an option on any trailers less then 14,000 lbs though.
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I was thinking the same thing, never really saw them on a trailer of this size before.
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Copy, I've owned trailers up to 25k & they never had them. Not sure it's anything other than an added value item i.e. Something they can add & charge you money with little affect other than increasing your empty weight. Reason I say that is we regularly over loaded our 25k deck over with steel. Other than wheel bearings, brakes & occasional suspension component on the trailer we had little issues. Not that any of those are little issues but we figured it was part of the game so to speak.
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On trailers with beams less than 10 inches I've experienced some lateral flex with good loads. But then I tend to live with overkill as my mantra
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Test fit the axles and springs while things are still tacked. Obviously will be spring-under setup, but just set them on to make sure everything lined up...and it did!
Next step is last 3 cross members, full weld of frame (at least what I can do while it's upside down) and then tongue!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36125540626_4fc15e9562_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/36165746365_a8a78b1653_c.jpg)
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That's some good progress
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Good work. What is the small block for?
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Just noticed you have all idler hubs.
Do you have brakes?
Reason I ask, at various GVW's you need brakes on one or both.
All depends on what your regs are.
I have some for those axles, and if shipping is reasonable I could send one axles brakes, unless you have already.
Now it is a lot easier to mock up without the extra weight of the brakes.
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Go both
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Just noticed you have all idler hubs.
Do you have brakes?
Reason I ask, at various GVW's you need brakes on one or both.
All depends on what your regs are.
I have some for those axles, and if shipping is reasonable I could send one axles brakes, unless you have already.
Now it is a lot easier to mock up without the extra weight of the brakes.
I have brake hubs and brakes for both axles, just didn't put them on yet to keep them nice and light for moving around the shop by hand.
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Good work. What is the small block for?
An excellent question. I bought it for like $125 bucks, complete engine, two q-jets etc. Hoped to put it into a 81-87 Chevy 4x4 truck, but I think now I may go with a 5.3 or 6.0 so this one might be built for something a little more fun than a daily driver, but not sure yet. It's a 4-bolt main block, has been bored .030 over already, but i figure not harm in taking it to 0.040 if needed.
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Yes no brakes is way easier to move around.
Good, you've got both covered.
I noticed it and forgot to ask, the small block, toys are fun...
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Do the 5.3, I have that for my elky.
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Was just looking at the angle of my spring shackles, and I'm thinking I may pop off the mounts on either end and pull them out a bit so that there's more angle on the shackles. They seems a little too vertical to me.
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Well I moved the spring mounts 3/4" away from the center, and I personally think the angle of the shackles looks better now, what do you guys think?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35439723664_08ce7efde3_c.jpg)
Also did a few sections of weld on each corner to get things a little more permanent, and to make sure the welder is working ok.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4317/36105394442_935ae5b358_c.jpg)
Did this in each corner, and it's still very square corner to corner!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4315/35439803194_a3e8605d8c_c.jpg)
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No expert, but the welds look a bit thin - turn up the wire feed speed some - melted the material but might be missing penetration without enough added material from the wire feed.
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No expert, but the welds look a bit thin - turn up the wire feed speed some - melted the material but might be missing penetration without enough added material from the wire feed.
I wondered that myself as well. The welds on the top had a decent gap, so some of it settles in the gap. I'll try turning it up a little though and see how it look. It's got a nice sizzle comin' out of it now, but a little more couldn't hurt.
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If he has good Vs I think he is fine. It is smooth, less chance of a stress crack. I bet that is only .125 where is welding.
I would gusset the corners well is all.
I think you are fine on the springs too. Those spring do not have a huge arch so I doubt you would see much past vertical with a heavy load.
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I think you are fine on the springs too. Those spring do not have a huge arch so I doubt you would see much past vertical with a heavy load.
You mean in my latest pic I assume yes?
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I think Cuda's smoking crack.. looks good from my recliner. If it breaks, I'll delete this post. :)
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I think you are fine on the springs too. Those spring do not have a huge arch so I doubt you would see much past vertical with a heavy load.
You mean in my latest pic I assume yes?
Yes, If that is the new angle, good job.
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I think you are fine on the springs too. Those spring do not have a huge arch so I doubt you would see much past vertical with a heavy load.
You mean in my latest pic I assume yes?
Yes, If that is the new angle, good job.
Yeah thats the new angle, i thought it looked better. Just holdin er on with vice grips right now!
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Yep, that looks good as well as the welds.
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Welded on all 6 spring mounts to. Will wait to do the long sides when I flip it over.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/36173102562_62dee3c8c3_c.jpg)
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Next I will weld the long sides of the cross members (and do the top and bottom of each when I flip it over). Need to clean the ends up the cross members and where they meet the side rail though. Will sort of be a pain in the ass since it's a 90 deg corner on each one. I'm thinking of using a grinding stone or small wire wheel on the die grinder. Any ideas or tips?
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At this point I would just make sure you are running hot and take your time laying down good beads.
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At this point I would just make sure you are running hot and take your time laying down good beads.
Ditto on that. Taking a couple sharp edges off would be good to (hangers and such). Later or now when you work on it you will be happier.
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Yes, those beads weren't the prettiest because they both had a tack midway that I welded over. The welder seems to be running hot enough, a real nice angry sizzle comin out of it, not holes in the welds and smooth and splatter free.
That's an excellent point about removing sharp edges, wouldn't have thought of that, but it makes complete sense!! Thanks for the tip!
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Yes, those beads weren't the prettiest because they both had a tack midway that I welded over. The welder seems to be running hot enough, a real nice angry sizzle comin out of it, not holes in the welds and smooth and splatter free.
That's an excellent point about removing sharp edges, wouldn't have thought of that, but it makes complete sense!! Thanks for the tip!
I wasn't critiquing your welds. If you didn't prep the areas prior to placing your cross member's you are going to spend a lot of time trying to get in there to clean them up. Instead make sure you are running the welder hot enough and taking your time with your welds to burn it all off. It sounds like you plan to weld all the way around the cross members. That should be more than enough weld to hold everything together. Depending on the size of your welder and your skill with a large bead that you will probably be laying vertical it you could try laying 3 beads instead of carrying one larger one. That would make it easier to get good penetration into your joint and burn the area clean before your puddle covers it up.
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Yes, those beads weren't the prettiest because they both had a tack midway that I welded over. The welder seems to be running hot enough, a real nice angry sizzle comin out of it, not holes in the welds and smooth and splatter free.
That's an excellent point about removing sharp edges, wouldn't have thought of that, but it makes complete sense!! Thanks for the tip!
I wasn't critiquing your welds. If you didn't prep the areas prior to placing your cross member's you are going to spend a lot of time trying to get in there to clean them up. Instead make sure you are running the welder hot enough and taking your time with your welds to burn it all off. It sounds like you plan to weld all the way around the cross members. That should be more than enough weld to hold everything together. Depending on the size of your welder and your skill with a large bead that you will probably be laying vertical it you could try laying 3 beads instead of carrying one larger one. That would make it easier to get good penetration into your joint and burn the area clean before your puddle covers it up.
Yes, that's a very good suggestion actually. It will indeed be vertical weld, unless I flip it 90 degrees so that the side of the trailer is on the ground, which could be a possibility too I guess.
I was planning welding 3 sides, yes. I was going to weld the back of the C now, and then when it's flipped right-side-up was going to weld the bottom flange on the inside of the C and the top flange on the top of the C. I think that should be ok?
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Those welds look much better than the first couple which were smooth, but didn't seem to have enough added material from the wire feed. (Ken's eyes are old and failing.....reason he loves Hillary is he originally thought she was Bo Derek)
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Those welds look much better than the first couple which were smooth, but didn't seem to have enough added material from the wire feed. (Ken's eyes are old and failing.....reason he loves Hillary is he originally thought she was Bo Derek)
I did turn up wire speed ever so slightly, and it still seems quite happy, so will likely leave as it is now.
Speaking of welds, I've seen on some fully wrapped tongues, that the sections of the tongue that are parallel to the frame rail (before they bend in to make the tongue) are slightly wider than the trailer frame to give a little ledge to give more material to weld. Or at least that's what I assume it's for. Does that make sense to do that?
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I thought those first welds looked good. It looked like you had a decent amount of gap there to be filled. A large fillet does not always mean more strength. It can just simply mean you are getting no penetration and all the material is just laying on top of the surface of the material. More like a layer of glue then actually joining the two pieces together. Anytime you are filling that large of a gap I would recommend welding both sides of the joint if possible.
When I built mine I welded both sides of the vertical wall. I also welded the horizontal inside edges of the channel. Depending on how you are positioning the cross members inside the rail there will not be a lot of access to get to the very top and bottom surface. I think mine were pushed closer to the bottom of the rail so that gave me some access to lay a bead on the top surface as well.
I offset the wrap on my tongue a 1/4" so that I could a good fillet weld on both the inside and outside instead of just a butt joint.
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Like bear said offset the tongue where it runs parallel to the frame so you can get an inside 90 weld rather than a butt joint on both sides. I have kept the width of the A frame narrower than width of trailer too & then welded it to the cross members on the front of the trail as well as the external frame. It worked fine as well, think it might have saved me several feet of material I was short on possibly. Looks good! :likebutton:
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Well, I got tired of trying to see joints I was going to weld with the frame 6" above the floor, so I lifted the ends up with the Kubota, and now it's 38" off the floor!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/35541269314_0e87dc7d6f_c.jpg)
Should be much nicer on my back too!
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That's a wonderful idea. One of the best ways to improve the quality and reduce fatigue is getting your work in a comfortable position. (this is more true as I get older.....)
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Sounds about the same height I did my bumper at.
Watch out for the Sparks between your legs once you sit on a chair or stool... :rolleyes:
Much better height for sure.
You'll end up sitting, but will be exponentially longer, and you'll be able to see for sure.
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I'm so glad I raised this frame off the ground, so nice to be able to sit and weld!
Here's a pic of my vertical up welds, I think they look ok. It's not my favorite weld to do, but much better when I can sit and do it at eye level!
Here's two different cross members. Each bead has a little bump in it where I have to run over the existing tack, which was done with flux core wire, but it's not too terrible.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/35597264663_e09a44f02e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36008086330_9b7fe2052b_c.jpg)
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On your vertical up are you doing a Texas 2 step with your gun vertically?
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Holding as vertical as I can and doing inverted V, is that the same as texas 2 step?
Here's a diagram of what I'm doing:
(http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/xmig-welding-questions-uphill-sketch.jpg.pagespeed.ic.JnNUHSgoQk.jpg)
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Penetration looks OK, but shouldn't have the high bead down the center. I think you need a little more heat and clean the weld area better past the coating.
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Penetration looks OK, but shouldn't have the high bead down the center. I think you need a little more heat and clean the weld area better past the coating.
I was sorta thinking that as well. Perhaps I'll try bumping up the volts and see what happens. The wire speed is about as fast as I'd want it, and perhaps that's part of the problem too, that I could just be moving the gun along a little faster? I tried a lower wire speed, but it just sounds...well too slow!
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You need bare metal, clean it up some.
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You need bare metal, clean it up some.
Yeah I know it should be a lot cleaner. Problem is they are all tacked in place. I suppose I could/should pop them off on at a time, clean up, re-tack and then fully weld. Well at least the 8 of 13 that aren't welded yet that is!
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Like painting, prep is 1/2 the work. Get a HF scaler, that may scrape it off. Many way to do it now, just not as easy.
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I'm not good at reading welds from a picture alone but your weld seems small. I think you need to crank heat and speed up while making your pattern larger and moving faster. Make sense? Cleaning everything beforehand would have been best but you should be able to dial in so that it isn't needed.
I always have a hard time doing a vertical up weld. I seem to be able to control the puddle better going down. You just need to make sure you keep ahead of the puddle.
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Holding as vertical as I can and doing inverted V, is that the same as texas 2 step?
Here's a diagram of what I'm doing:
(http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/xmig-welding-questions-uphill-sketch.jpg.pagespeed.ic.JnNUHSgoQk.jpg)
A lot depends on your settings / machine. Texas 2 step is more of a quick up then drop back & fill. Then quick up farther then back and fill. Kinda preheats the metal as you go. What you're doing is more of a side to side weave & depending on machine may be what you need to do.
Edit: metal shouldn't need to be prepped more than it is. Crank your heat and or move slower. If you can't burn through a little mill scale then you have other issues.
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I knocked off and cleaned up the remaining two thirds of the cross members, mostly to see if the welds would be a little different/better. It actually didn't take much time. I figured I'll have no other better opportunity, and worse case, the welds looks the same, nothing to lose really!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/35577129904_3c43483866_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/35577131884_9ce8a5cef3_c.jpg)
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Much better. The welds will be cleaner and you will be happier.
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They should be better.
I'm with the others, more heat will also help.
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rcampbell, how do you like that compressor? I've never heard of the Omega brand.
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rcampbell, how do you like that compressor? I've never heard of the Omega brand.
It's been great! It's a company here in Canada, in Ontario. They do more of the industrial type stuff, but also contractor stuff too. Mine is from the professional series.
http://omegacompressors.com/compressors/professional/
Mine is the PK6560V model, which is really more compressor than I need, but not really :) I've been very happy with it for sure.
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Ahhh... I didn't realize you are in Canada, guess that's why I haven't heard of them :grin:
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Just a quick update. welded in the cross members that I cleaned up with the grinder. The welds look pretty good I think, I'm happy with them.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/36352133962_1ef030633d_c.jpg)
Think there's be any benefit to welding inside the C on the cross members as well, or would web and flange on the outside only be ok?
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Welds look good, if you're not opposed I would fully weld them all the way around. In areas where salt & rust are an issue I think it will make the trailer last longer. If not that's a spot where crap can get in & start deteriorating the joint. If it was a non structural spot I would recommend at very minimum caulk the spots that you didn't weld prior to paint.
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Welds look good, if you're not opposed I would fully weld them all the way around. In areas where salt & rust are an issue I think it will make the trailer last longer. If not that's a spot where crap can get in & start deteriorating the joint. If it was a non structural spot I would recommend at very minimum caulk the spots that you didn't weld prior to paint.
Yeah that's along the same lines as I was thinking as well. Probably won't need it for strength, but will seal up the little nooks and crannies better.
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Laying up the tongue pieces now. Gonna get them in place and centered etc, and then tack them into place. After they are tacked and I have cut the notches I can bend around the ends of the wrapped tongue and weld them into place as well. My angle is a little less than 50 deg, more like 40 or 45, but i think it will be fine, as I'm not using a 50 deg coupler anyway. I'm welding an adjustable coupler, that is basically 12 inches of vertical channel with a bunch of holes in it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36460787822_a3e69f7253_c.jpg)
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Good call on the adjustable coupler. My dump trailer has that, changing between trucks is quick and easy as long as the wrenches stay in the tool box.
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Same here. It is a great feature on my equipment trailer.
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Pintle ring is a great addition if you don't want every long lost "friend" trying to borrow your trailer. Gooseneck is even better for this imo....
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Pintle ring is a great addition if you don't want every long lost "friend" trying to borrow your trailer. Gooseneck is even better for this imo....
You know, that had crossed my mind. If I ever get a bigger truck/trailer combo, I'm thinking it'll be a goose neck trailer for sure.
Got my tongue bent and tacked on. Each side of the tongue measures the same distance to the front corner of the trailer, and everything seems to be squared up nicely.
One side...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/35801582714_22b35f76a7_c.jpg)
The other side...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36589363026_a7e11acd39_c.jpg)
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Another one of my dumb questions but you are measuring from hub (front axle) on each side to the front / center of tongue to make sure it pulls straight? Some guys even have the passengers' side a little shorter (1/16 to an 1/8") to help with crown built into most roads. I've never done that for the record but have heard of guys doing it that have built a lot of trailers.
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Another one of my dumb questions but you are measuring from hub (front axle) on each side to the front / center of tongue to make sure it pulls straight? Some guys even have the passengers' side a little shorter (1/16 to an 1/8") to help with crown built into most roads. I've never done that for the record but have heard of guys doing it that have built a lot of trailers.
I will yes, once I get the axles up on the springs. I'll do a final check of a few things to make sure it's all still square and then sew it up good and solid. I'll then grind off any sharp corners on the bottom and paint the bottom while it's still upside down.
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:likebutton:
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I bolted on the front axle, and measured from front side of tongue to center of opposite axle. Did both sides, and they were exactly (well 1mm or less in the difference) the same. So I welded on the angle piece of the tongue to the frame. I will clean off the frame and wrapped part of the tongue tomorrow and fully weld up what I can while it's still upside down.
I then trimmed the front of the tongue so it's flat. And I'm debating the best way to weld on my hitch mount. I'm thinking either contour it so that it fits nicely. Or weld some plate on and then well the hitch mount to the plate. Any thoughts?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/35819584824_07b4be9f17_c.jpg)
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If you weld both outside & inside that channel vertically it won't go anywhere. Only other thing I might do is cut a gusset to lay on top & bottom of a-frame then weld it on. Only would need to be 6" front to rear & if adjustable channel extends above or below then you could add additional vertical gusset to it as well.
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If you weld both outside & inside that channel vertically it won't go anywhere. Only other thing I might do is cut a gusset to lay on top & bottom of a-frame then weld it on. Only would need to be 6" front to rear & if adjustable channel extends above or below then you could add additional vertical gusset to it as well.
I will definitely gusset the top half. There will be probably 3 holes above the tongue. I'm hoping if I contour the tongue a little to the round edges sit back into it a little better it will close up those gaps some.
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That, or triple pass it. Triple the inside first then you may be able to clean up outside with just a double pass or maybe a single?
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I'd contour it in a bit, then as Shawn says triple pass the inside, gusset too and bottom, and clean and weld the outside with whatever it takes.
Verticals may be overkill, but I'd do them as well.
Overkill is not a bad thing in some areas, and this would be o e of them IMO.
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That looks like a pretty healthy gap in the pic. I would try to set it back some I'm the channel to close up the gap. Make sure you don't go to far and cause an interference with the coupler though. Then make a few passes on the inside and finish up on the outside. You should be able to weld all four sides on both the inside and the outside.
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If I remember correctly you are going to need to use a grinder to fit it? What size wire are you running and do you have a copper backer bar? If your running .035 and have a backer I would probably just fill it and run a few extra passes on each side. Would prevent a lot of screwing around with the grinder.
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I think the angle of the pic makes the gap look worse than it is, but not being there we don't know. Bottom line, weld it up & it isn't gunna fall off......
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Contour and gusset. Never worry about it again.
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Contoured the tongue this morning, and got things fitted up. I didn't tack it into place, because then the garage door won't close! lol
But I cleaned up the metal and am ready to weld, will just have to try and move everything back a little. I put a bolt in to make sure I didn't get so deep as to not allow the nut to thread on properly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/35833035884_69a28f1031_c.jpg)
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Contour looks good, you may want to grind the front vertical edge of those channels a little more. In doing so you would give yourself a nice area to lay an inside 90 degree weld & fill it in making it look very clean.
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Contour looks good, you may want to grind the front vertical edge of those channels a little more. In doing so you would give yourself a nice area to lay an inside 90 degree weld & fill it in making it look very clean.
Not a bad idea at all, I'll give it a try!
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Contour looks good, you may want to grind the front vertical edge of those channels a little more. In doing so you would give yourself a nice area to lay an inside 90 degree weld & fill it in making it look very clean.
X2.
Will finish up very nicely.
Looks like you've got a great fit now too.
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Contour looks good, you may want to grind the front vertical edge of those channels a little more. In doing so you would give yourself a nice area to lay an inside 90 degree weld & fill it in making it look very clean.
X2.
Will finish up very nicely.
Looks like you've got a great fit now too.
I got thinking about this more. Do you guys just mean to grind it back more, or do you mean to angle the edges?
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Grind the front vertical edge of the channel so it is parallel with the front of trailer side to side. So basically you will be grinding the channel back so you can see the full thickness (actually a bit more as the channel is on an angle) of the channel next to that formed hitch mount if you are standing in front of the trailer looking at it. Make sense?
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Even though it is heavy, I would try to roll the trailer on its side for the welding. With clean metal, a good V and gravity it will be solid!
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Grind the front vertical edge of the channel so it is parallel with the front of trailer side to side. So basically you will be grinding the channel back so you can see the full thickness (actually a bit more as the channel is on an angle) of the channel next to that formed hitch mount if you are standing in front of the trailer looking at it. Make sense?
Yes ok I thought that's what you meant. I had it like that before I did the contouring. I trimmed the front of the tongue so that it was on a flat plane parallel with the front of the trailer. But I'll be sure to grind it as you suggest to make sure I have lots of surface area to weld to.
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:likebutton:
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Even though it is heavy, I would try to roll the trailer on its side for the welding. With clean metal, a good V and gravity it will be solid!
Yes I agree that's the way to do it for sure. I'd definitely want to weld is partially or brace it or something before I tip it over so that nothing sags or moves out of place. I actually thought I may weld the whole thing on the inside, and then flip it and do the outside (ie. visible) welds horizontally so that they are both strong and look nice.
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:likebutton:
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Got all the cross members welded in now. Hitch mount is welded in place enough so that I can flip the trailer. Just need to weld the cross members the rest of the way around, and the inside of the corners, and along the wrapped tongue. Rounded some sharp corners on the spring mounts and the frame corners as well. After that I can wire and paint the bottom, woohoo!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/35911309534_9cb9a3810c_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/35936139913_48a68aea63_c.jpg)
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:likebutton:
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Looking good. Definitely got some heat in the cross members.
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What you gonna paint it with?
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What you gonna paint it with?
I haven't decided for sure yet to be honest. I'm thinking maybe tractor/implement paint, as my brother works at a New Holland dealership. Still trying to figure out how much paint I need. I'm thinking a gallon would do it?
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I used the Rust-Oleum brand tractor paint. I gallon should be plenty.
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I've got some leftover interior wall paint in a nice light purple if you're interested. Trailer frame is looking great!
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I used the Rust-Oleum brand tractor paint. I gallon should be plenty.
Did you spray it on or roll/brush it on? I've talked to some people who used narrow rollers and liked it better than sprayed.
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I sprayed it. Rolling might be OK for the outside rails but it would be a major PITA to get inside the channels and in all the corners etc..
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I don't see how you could roll your build and get everything. All square tubing sure and less mess.
You can get an HVLP gun for under $10 at HF.
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Yeah, I was planning on spraying. I've got a HVLP gun I bought on sale I'm looking to try out.
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One gallon plenty.
I brushed mine due to using the loading bay at work.
And it was tube.
To do it again HVLP for sure.
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Well I got the welding done that I can do while the trailer is upside down, so now I have to come up with a clever way to flip this thing over. I'm thinking I may put a dolly under the end of it, and pull it out to the grass with the Kubota, and then just flip it over on the grass. Once it's right Side up I can put the axles/wheels on and then just back it into the garage again.
I thought I might be able to flip it over without removing it from the garage, but that might just lead to disaster and wreck something.
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um...yeah. flip it outside. Away from farm animals and small children...
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How do you plan to flip it. When I built the 4 place at trailer in high school I flipped it with about 10 people during class. Then later I flipped it again with a chain around the outside rail and a wheel loader.
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Got er flipped! Drug it out of the garage. Lifted one side up about 30" with the engine hoist, put a long strap on the top of the trailer and on the loader of the tractor. Once the tractor took the weight off the hoist, I removed it, then pulled it over with the tractor!
Got the springs, axles and wheel on now, so putting it back in the garage should be much easier now!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/37052814471_6871c05ddf_c.jpg)
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:likebutton:
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Where there's a will, there's a way.
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Looking good!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I was just noticing I have less than 2" of clearance between axles and frame. I could do a spring over, but that will raise it more than I'd like or need. I may just get taller front and rear shackles and taller equalizers, it would be good for 1 or 1.5" more clearance, which would be nice.
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I was just noticing I have less than 2" of clearance between axles and frame. I could do a spring over, but that will raise it more than I'd like or need. I may just get taller front and rear shackles and taller equalizers, it would be good for 1 or 1.5" more clearance, which would be nice.
load it light........ :popcorn:
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Might be easier to get new springs with a better arch.
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This is what it looks like.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37071940211_85c9a35f5b_c.jpg)
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Might be easier to get new springs with a better arch.
X2^^^^^
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I ran into the same problem when I initially built mine.
I took spring perches off, and shortened shackles. I the end it was maybe not enough.
Over the few years I ran these I bent three axles.
If you take the spring perches off the top carefully, and it will gain you a half inch or so.
I'm now resprung with 6k springs and axles.
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Might be easier to get new springs with a better arch.
X2^^^^^
I thought about this, but these are the only springs I can get locally without trying to find some online.
I thought about the higher equalizer and hangers since the whole suspension is only bolted on finger tight right now, and the hangers are only half welded on currently.
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Cut the hangers & space them down, cheapest fix. A little work but not that much just use solid 2" block don't use tube spacers or build longer hangers & box open ends (even better imo)
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I have 3 5/8" hanger straps now, so I thought it might be worth trying shorter 2 1/4" hanger straps and seeing if that brings the axles away from the frame enough. Barring that I'll put spacers under front, center and rear hangers as you suggested.
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I have 3 5/8" hanger straps now, so I thought it might be worth trying shorter 2 1/4" hanger straps and seeing if that brings the axles away from the frame enough. Barring that I'll put spacers under front, center and rear hangers as you suggested.
That may be enough in addition to cutting that upper spring mount pad off the axle.
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Sounds like a lot of work for 1 1/2-2 inches.
Make it simple, just mount the axle on the bottom. Unless you really need it as low as it is.
Plus those springs will break in some and flatten out.
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Just get rid of the springs for air ride suspension. Raise it as needed lol
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Just get rid of the springs for air ride suspension. Raise it or lower as needed lol
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FIFY :likebutton:
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Di you get it painted?
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Di you get it painted?
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Not yet, gotta get stake pockets welded on, and weld the tongue jack.
The biggest holdup is deciding what to weld on for ramps. Can't decide if I should go with ones that are basically always attached and flip up, or ones that are detachable and stored under the trailer.
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I would go with the stored under type, out of the way when not needed.
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Definitely stored under. They will definitely be in the way more than you think, and it's hard to haul long vehicles with tip up ramps (like trucks)
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Slide in only. There when you need em, out of the way when not needed, don't need tying down and long loads are no issues.
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Very good point and advice! Detachable ramps it is!
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Stake pockets welded on! Thinking about the best thing to go across the end of the trailer for the ramps to hook into. Perhaps flat bar with spacers every couple feet? Perhaps 1" angle that is 3/16" thick?
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Stake pockets welded on! Thinking about the best thing to go across the end of the trailer for the ramps to hook into. Perhaps flat bar with spacers every couple feet? Perhaps 1" angle that is 3/16" thick?
I would do the angle & every so often weld a small tab inside to keep it solid. You can always notch ramp hooks to miss them for more adjustability
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I got a piece of 6" wide 1/4" flat to run across the entire rear end. I spaced it about 2" off the rear most cross member with some angle. The ramps hook into it and my lights are cut into it. I ran main rail a little long to do this though too.
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Not the best picture but might give you an idea of what I did.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/Bear9350/KIMG0164_zpsjd4atiqr.jpg~original) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/Bear9350/media/KIMG0164_zpsjd4atiqr.jpg.html)
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Stake pockets welded on! Thinking about the best thing to go across the end of the trailer for the ramps to hook into. Perhaps flat bar with spacers every couple feet? Perhaps 1" angle that is 3/16" thick?
I would do the angle & every so often weld a small tab inside to keep it solid. You can always notch ramp hooks to miss them for more adjustability
I'm thinking this might be the easiest. Might drill a hole every foot or two so water can drain as well.
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Found some 3/8" flat bar in the scrap pile at the farm, so decided to use that. I think it will be ok. I left a space of 24" in the middle, as I can't image loading something that has a track narrower than 2 feet !
Cut some spacers at 1"
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/37417540021_0990bb803f_c.jpg)
Cut some length of bar to weld onto the spacers
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37417541061_2dc1c595ec_c.jpg)
And here they are welded on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/36747430673_5f4431509a_c.jpg)
Here's a shot of some of the stake pockets welded on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37417541141_17e16545e4_c.jpg)
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Getting there.
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Are you going to weld flat bar on outside of all the stake pockets?
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Are you going to weld flat bar on outside of all the stake pockets?
Those make great tie-downs!!
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Are you going to weld flat bar on outside of all the stake pockets?
I'm not sure. I might. If I do it will be just over the 3 pockets in front of the the fenders. I do have some 1.5" x 1/4" I could use.
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Are you going to weld flat bar on outside of all the stake pockets?
I'm not sure. I might. If I do it will be just over the 3 pockets in front of the the fenders. I do have some 1.5" x 1/4" I could use.
If you have the steel I would do it. It looks very clean & as JR stated it gives you a nice place to wrap tie downs on etc.
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Nice attention to detail
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Are you going to weld flat bar on outside of all the stake pockets?
I'm not sure. I might. If I do it will be just over the 3 pockets in front of the the fenders. I do have some 1.5" x 1/4" I could use.
If you have the steel I would do it. It looks very clean & as JR stated it gives you a nice place to wrap tie downs on etc.
Yeah, ti's true, it would be handy. Perhaps I'll do that today. You can actually see one of the pieces of flat bar I have in the picture of the stake pockets! Since it's not the same width as the stake pockets, I wonder if it would be better to keep it flush with the top of the stake pockets, or in the middle, or flush with the bottom?
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Make it easier on yourself & weld it in the middle. Just my 2 cents but trailer is looking very good, nice work there!
:likebutton:
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Got the cross member tacked in place where I will be mounting my tongue jack
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/36722376164_e7a79d4fc3_c.jpg)
Also got both fender tacked in place. This is just the first side that I did. I had to space the fender out 1.5" from the frame rail to properly cover the tires. I'll put two vertical pieces of angle iron on the outside of the frame rail to support it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/37400971282_13cd427e46_c.jpg)
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No removeable fenders?
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No removeable fenders?
No not on this one. To be honest I've had several trailers of various sizes and never once wished for removable fenders.
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Copy
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Oh. They're removable all right. First blown tire at speed and they'll be removed :wink
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Both fenders tacked on. Looks ok to me!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4420/36766483053_f2caa07849_c.jpg)
And both tool shelfs....err fender, fully welded now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/37436761321_1758eb7f4d_c.jpg)
Now just to final weld the jack mount up front, put a 12" rail across the front of the deck, and then it will be paint time!!
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Cut uprights for the bump rail last night. Used some scrap 1.5" square tube. Has to cap the bottoms before welding onto the trailer to keep them water tight.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/37236165700_9438b8a6c5_c.jpg)
And all welded
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/37494309241_9f46362c1d_c.jpg)
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Getting closer to painting time!
Got my front bump rail fab'ed and welded on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/36904173073_c8c8406a6f_c.jpg)
Got my jack and it's support fully welded on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/23721773678_1baec84b9d_c.jpg)
And marked out some pieces of 1/4" plate that I will use for supports for the hitch mount that sticks up above the tongue
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/23721779028_6c1b8b6bcd_c.jpg)
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Got the hitch mount reinforced. I'm sure it will be stout enough...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/23744033838_5c8438df00_c.jpg)
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Started wiping down the trailer with acetone to get the grease and dirt off. Painting pics to follow soon!
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Humble suggestion if I may. I’d triangulate at least the sides of the front wall you built with some plate. Same for the tongue jack as that single cross member will twist.
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I agree with tx on front wall, not so much on tongue jack though.
Wheel chocks are cheap insurance, isn't that right Charles? :tongue:
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Shawn why use wheel chocks when you can just surf the runaway trailer into a nearby tree....or so I've heard.
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Shawn why use wheel chocks when you can just surf the runaway trailer into a nearby tree....or so I've heard.
:popcorn:
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:popcorn:
Shawn why use wheel chocks when you can just surf the runaway trailer into a nearby tree....or so I've heard.
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If you plated the bottom of your tongue you could use it as loose storage for chain and maybe add some structural support for that jack as Tex/Shawn suggest
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Humble suggestion if I may. I’d triangulate at least the sides of the front wall you built with some plate. Same for the tongue jack as that single cross member will twist.
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By front wall, you mean the bump rail yes? That's probably not a bad idea. Each vertical piece is welded the full 5" height of the channel, and that front channel it welded to the tongue as well. I suppose a little extra support would be nice if some yahoo ever thought about putting a winch on there to drag something onto the trailer or something.
For the jack cross member, I had thought about putting in a piece 90 deg to the crossmember, back to the front of the trailer frame for some added torsional rigidity.
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I'm just looking at the picture of your bump rail. Do you have anything to support your decking on the very front frame piece that the rail is welded to?
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I'm just looking at the picture of your bump rail. Do you have anything to support your decking on the very front frame piece that the rail is welded to?
No, I left that piece out. By the time a cars bumper was at the bump rail, the front tires would be at or behind that first cross member anyway. I supposed I could put something there just in case though.
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Easier to add it now then need it later. A piece of angle cut to fit would do the trick.
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Easier to add it now then need it later. A piece of angle cut to fit would do the trick.
I got a piece of angle welded in there. Thanks for making me do it, only took about 15 mins to cut/weld etc. Hoping to finished acetone wash down today and get it painted. Will soon be getting a little too cold to paint it!
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cold weather painting tip (recall I worked in unheated steel storage warehouses for years) use a kitchen hot plate to warm up the paint before spraying.......
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I use hot water. The hot plate would negate changing the water. Surface will need to be warm also.
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Negative, steel can be cold. Cold steel storage shops feel generally 15-20 degrees colder than outside temp during the winter days. When outside temps rise the steel still stays cold for a few days, really sucks when spring thaw comes. The steel sucks in the cold & holds it.
Hot water would probably work as well but more of a pain to deal with I think & not necessary.
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Referring to heating the paint in warm water.
Long as the shop is a little warm and the steel is clean the should hold paint OK.
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Referring to heating the paint in warm water.
Understood, just thinking pot of water & heating it was one more step. In the climate we were in some knucklehead would have left water in pot then turned burner off for weekend & we would have had a frozen pot come Monday morning.
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Well it was 21 Celsius today, so I thought I better get a coat of paint on! I first did the bottom of the whole trailer laying on my back on a creeper. Then once that was done, did the rest standing up. The bottom is likely on a little thicker than it needs to be, but just more concerned with coverage than looks under there.
Supposed to be another warm day tomorrow, so hoping to put a second coat on, then call it a day.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/26135218769_1c62058bc7_c.jpg)
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:likebutton:
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Purdy
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:likebutton:
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Those genders look really good
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Those genders look really good
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Dave, all trailers are female. Just sayin......
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Those genders look really good
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Those “fenders” look really good
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I was actually quite happy with how it turned out, first time I ever hvlp'd before, but it sure beats the heck out of using spray cans!!! I'm thinking the bottom side went on rather thick, and won't need much of a second coat, but I'll get a light second coat on most of it I think. Little humid here today, so hopefully still dries quickly enough.
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I'm thinking for my safety chains I might just drill a 1/2" hole on either side of the tongue and use some gr. 8 hardware and chain and bolt them on. Where would be the best spot to drill the hole, in the web of the channel steel, or on the bottom flange?
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Do you need the bottom set of holes on the channel. You could just run a bolt or clevis through that if you don't think it will be needed.
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Do you need the bottom set of holes on the channel. You could just run a bolt or clevis through that if you don't think it will be needed.
That's a good idea. The rules here say the chains can't be connected to the coupler, but that wouldn't be the coupler I dont think (it would be what the coupler mounts on), so might just be the easier solution! I really doubt I'd need the bottom holes, the top half would be most likely to be used, plus the drawbar on the truck is adjustable as well.
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If you can't use them, which I don't see why not, then I'd drill right at the bottom close enough that your chain link sits flat on the edge of the channel.
My thought is you lose less structural strength there than if you used the bottom edge of the channel.
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If you can't use them, which I don't see why not, then I'd drill right at the bottom close enough that your chain link sits flat on the edge of the channel.
My thought is you lose less structural strength there than if you used the bottom edge of the channel.
:likebutton:
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Well, got er painted, got the lights mounted, brakes on all 4 wheels, and couple on there. Mostly just need to wire and put on decking!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/37291513564_72e3be18b0_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/37947136736_75f079ebf8_c.jpg)
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Home stretch!!!
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Looking good!
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Any further updates?
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I got the wiring all connected. Just need to tie stuff up out of the way. I have a box of trailer flooring screws on the way. They are 5/16" gr.8 self tapping screws, purpose made for attaching wood boards to steel or aluminium trailer frame. So once those arrive next week I will get the decking on. At that point it should be an actual trailer! Still have to make some ramps for it, but that won't be too big of a deal I dont think.
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When I repaired trailers we would still drill the holes first. Sure the hardware is better now but in the long run we saved lots of time.
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If he bought specific screws for this process he should be gtg, I've used ones from Fastenal in the past and they are pretty slick.....
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When I repaired trailers we would still drill the holes first. Sure the hardware is better now but in the long run we saved lots of time.
Yup, still gotta drill holes for these ones as well, they aren't self-drillers, just self-tappers. They are just like the ones you can get at Fastenal. Use a Torx T40 bit to drive them in.
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We were doing 40-50 footers. Seemed to go on forever,,,,,,
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Well, I finally got a deck on this thing! The trailer flooring screws I got were just the thing. I put all the boards in place, then drilled holes right through the wood and steel, zipped the screws in, and done!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/40011307111_02c42999c0_c.jpg)
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that's a good looking piece of equipment right there Ryan.
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I agree with Tate, nice job! :likebutton:
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Thanks guys! I'm hoping I'll have a chance to use it for something other than holding snow off the ground soon. Still have to build some ramps for it, but still has lots of uses without ramps as well.
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well done. Now put a car or tractor on it and take a picture!
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Yup, needs it first scratch.
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I didn't get the tractor on it yet, but took it for it's first drive. Had to take it to get inspected, so now it's road legal! Good timing too, might be soon picking up some 73-87 chevy parts for an upcoming project!!
For anyone else that lives in a place that salts and sands the roads in the winter, the poor state of my truck won't be a surprise to you :(
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4624/38787013520_7294d56f56_c.jpg)
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That looks great.
Is that dirt on the jimmy or dents?
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That looks great.
Is that dirt on the jimmy or dents?
All dirt. It's above freezing today, so all the road sand and water make everything a real nice mess.