REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: rcampbell on November 03, 2015, 12:30:25 PM
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Well, I finally found a truck that will serve my purposes as rugged enough for farm duty, and hauling trailers, wood etc. Needs some work on the transmission shifter, as it seems like it jumped out of the notch or something. I do like the fact that it's a manual transmission, and also has manual shift lever for 4x4 which I prefer for this type of truck. Has been undercoated it's whole life, and was a 1-owner truck. Has high miles, 325K, but runs well, no smoke, no blow-by etc. It runs well, has some new front end parts and new clutch, good tires on it etc. I also had recently bought a 98 dodge 2500 2wd cummins which will come in handy since I now have a spare engine, a whole truck worth of interior parts, good set of spare wheels etc.
Not sure what to call it, perhaps RoundD, BlueD, CurvedD hahaha. I'll get some pics up soon, picking it up tomorrow or thurs I'd say.
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I like where this is going.
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oil change
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Definitely vote for a fluid change and "Deep Cleaning"
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LongD, RamD, DQ.....did someone say Ice Cream? :o
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Hahaha stay focused cuda!
LongD, RamD, DQ.....did someone say Ice Cream? :o
Haha stay focused cuda!
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Fluid change...fluid change...fluid change...Flui...
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Here's a quick picture. Got er for 3900!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5630/22168612244_c3a5fd4d4f.jpg)
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Oil Change and some new floor mats.
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Here's a quick picture. Got er for 3900!
Truck like that up here would have an asking price around $8-10,000 or more.
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You stole it. That is what they want motors for now around here!
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I also got a parts truck which is a 1998.5 2wd dodge. It's got a 24v cummins as well, but is automatic. I will just keep the parts that I can use and sell the rest for a few bucks I guess. Only paid 1300 for that, which it was well worth I'd say.
I think for this truck I will keep it mostly as-is for a couple years, clean it up and fix what needs fixing, and just use it for hauling work for now, and then after that I would love to do a full restore on it.
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Good plan!
Gotta be really careful with those fluid changes!
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Truck like that up here would have an asking price around $8-10,000 or more.
I concur. I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.
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I concur. I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.
There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.
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I think both of them were steals of a deal!
Complete fluid change. :)
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You stole it. That is what they want motors for now around here!
I just bought that 2000 24v w/130k miles for 3k delivered...I would say he got a great deal!
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I concur. I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.
There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.
bobby, that manual was actually a rare combo.
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I concur. I have been keeping my eyes on craigslist for a while and there hasn't been anything for a decent price recently.
There was a 2500 of the 04-06 vintage on CL up here, manual, quad cab, short box 33x,xxx miles... for $13,000.
bobby, that manual was actually a rare combo.
Well that might explain that one.
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Well, after I got the truck home, I figured out why the shifter was so floppy. The shift tower bolts had come undone. It was then I noticed that there were only 2 out of the 4 bolts, and 1 out of the 4 busings. So with those put back in, I was at least able to shift it into gear, but was still quite loose. I found the bolts, bushings etc could be ordered online, but being the impatient fella that I can be, I figured I'd make my own. Took some measurements off the one bushing I had, and turned 3 more on my brothers lathe.
So here they are, I'll try them tomorrow, and hope that after a fluid change, that's all my transmission needs, since it's had a new clutch put in it recently.
Original on the left, ones I made on the right. Also, luckily enough, the bolts in the transmission are just regular 1/4-20 bolts so I figure I can just replace the two missing ones with some 1.5" long grade 5 bolts and a washer for each that I have on hand.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/733/22467324479_f81bca2af7_c.jpg)
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Well I got a little more done to the cummins today. I got new oil and filter last night, so got the oil changed. Just for fun, this is the engine bay before I took off the air intake hose to get at the oil filter.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/646/23002232212_e2a3b1ed6c_c.jpg)
I then used the bushings I made, and the new isolation spacer I got from Quad4x4 (shipped to PE, Canada in 3 days from the time I ordered it!!) and got the shift tower bolted up as it should be. I must say, 4 bolts and 4 bushings works a heck of a lot better than 2 bolts and 1 bushing! haha
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5640/22392934764_ffb2d2fc50_c.jpg)
Also, here's the wheels that are on my parts truck. The center cap says Xtreme II on it, and they are steel 16 inch wheels. I'm guessing maybe they are steel procomps? Anyone know? I may get them blasted and repaint them and have a nice spare set of wheels. The ones on the truck now are the stock 16" dodge wheels, but they are in good shape, and I don't mind the look of them that much.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/598/23026828721_f6aa524f83_c.jpg)
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Also, as I knew when I bought the truck, the there's a bit of a wander in the front end, as these trucks are infamous for. I laid under the front end and had a look around while my friend moved the steering wheel a little. I notice on the inside of the drivers side frame rail, where the steering box bolts goes through, that there's about a 1" crack starting from that bolt hole, and you can see the metal on either side of the crack move some. I'm assuming at least part of the wander is because of that.
So my question is what's the best way to fix it? Any 2nd gen Dodge gurus here? Assuming I weld that small crack, should I look into a brace of some kind? There were a bunch of front end parts replaced on it before I got it, so there shouldn't be too much left to fix after the crack is taken care of.
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I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.
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I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.
Second gen has a different setup Nate
You could probably get away with cutting the crack out, then welding it back, then box up that part of the frame and run some steel bushings through the frame and use longer bolts. Maybe weld some stiffener inside the frame as well.
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There is a steering brace you can get for those trucks.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231118621589
Fix the crack and install that and you should be good to go
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I would say drill a hole at each end of the crack and then use the frame kit that I think don used on his to strengthen that area.
Second gen has a different setup Nate
You could probably get away with cutting the crack out, then welding it back, then box up that part of the frame and run some steel bushings through the frame and use longer bolts. Maybe weld some stiffener inside the frame as well.
These frames are already boxed at the front. I'll have to do as husker mentions and put in a brace. Should help to keep the steering box still and the frame rails more rigid by the look of it!
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I was grabbing some items off my parts truck the other day and noticed it has an aftermarket exhaust. It's a 4" stainless exhaust. I would love to use it on my new truck, but the parts truck is a quad cab short box, and the new one is a quad cab long box. Would I still be able to use it if I just added 1.5 feet of tube to make is long, or would some of the bends etc be different?
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From what I have seen they just include a spacer for longbeds vs SB. Since you have both trucks just crawl under and see it that works? Summit sell tube in lengths for that with nice band clamps.
That frame brace is nice, but you need to fix the crack. Pull the bolt, grid the crack and weld it up.
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From what I have seen they just include a spacer for longbeds vs SB. Since you have both trucks just crawl under and see it that works? Summit sell tube in lengths for that with nice band clamps.
That frame brace is nice, but you need to fix the crack. Pull the bolt, grid the crack and weld it up.
Sounds good, that's sort of what I was thinking might be possible. I'll pull the old one off the parts truck and verify.
Yes, I planned on welding it up to be more of a permanent fix, and was hoping the brace would provide added rigidity, and be a preventative measure against it happening again.
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Nice job on the bushings! The new ones look identical to the old! Not many people left that take the time to manufacture what they need vs buying new.
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The band clamps are very strong, allow for removal or changes and never rust. Check em out before you weld.
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The band clamps are very strong, allow for removal or changes and never rust. Check em out before you weld.
Yeah for sure. In my previous post, I meant I was planning to weld the crack by the steering box. My fault, not a very clear post.
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Went to pull the stainless exhaust off my parts truck today. First I torched the two bolts that hold it on to the back of the turbo, since they were quite rusty and hard to get at. Then I got all the rubber hangers off, didn't take long. Lastly I thought (or at least hoped) that since the whole exhaust was in several sections held together with u-bolts, that it would come off easy. But let me tell you, there's no need for clamps at this point! Those sections are stuck together good! Even the skid steer couldn't pull them apart.
I did find it odd though that the female half of each joint didn't have a slot in it. Would cutting a slot with the cutting wheel and grinder help to get them apart? The bed is off the truck, so I can get pretty easy access to the back half.
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I'll bet someone used exhaust clamps, the "U" bolt type, and I correct?
If so, you're done. Those clamps deform both pipes together making it virtually impossible to get them apart.
Cutting a slot in two places or more on the outer pipe might loosen the parts up, but they will be all boogered up when they finally do separate
Always use the band style clamps. From Summit $10 to $15 ea and they will hold everything tight, and when loosened up, the parts will slide apart, even years from now. Sometimes I remove parts of my exhaust from either truck to get to stuff better. Just a quick loosening and the pipes fall apart.
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Yes sir, you hit the nail on the head with your diagnosis of the problem. I hope I can salvage most of it since it's still a real good and solid 4" exhaust.
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You'll definitely have to slot the heck out of those connections, and even then you'll be cursing at how loose they are, and still won't come apart!!
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Well look what came in the mail! Was going to install this today, then drive to the shop and weld the hairline crack that starts at the steering box mounting bolt.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5826/22938950173_9468870470_c.jpg)
There's actually two hairline cracks. One starts at the mounting bolt and goes down, and ends at the bottom of the frame rail. I dropped a hole at the end of that one. The other crack also starts at the same mounting bolt and goes up, about an inch and a half as far as I can tell. Problem is, I can't get the drill in there because the pitman arm and drag link are in the way. Also, I think to weld the top one properly, I would need to unbolt the steering box itself to get better access. Does anyone know if I can just unbolt the steering box and move it over out of the way a little without taking the lines off etc?
I think I'll put the brace in now since I'll have to move the truck to get it to where it's going to be welded, hopefully the brace will at least keep the crack from getting worse. I'm thinking that's where a good bit of my wander is coming from, since even when sitting parked and turned off, if someone moves the steering wheel from side to side, you can see the top crack open a little.
Also, was curious about a couple things. I ought to get a service manual I guess!!
Does anyone know what this little box is under the hood? The wires were unplugged since I bought it, not sure what its for.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/23457477742_66b66583c7_c.jpg)
Also, the PO put a kill switch on the drivers seat mount. I don't want it there, and the wiring was a little bit of a hack job which is another reason I'm getting rid of this. When removing wires and cables etc, I noticed two wires going here, anyone know what these are for?
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5653/23270289900_2b74cbb6c0_c.jpg)
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Steering box can be unbolted & moved. If you need you can pull pitman arm but those can be a bear to remove.
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I'm guessing that box is a switch for the under hood light. Lift hood, light goes on.
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The lens looks a bit dirty. Should be a light there somewhere under that grime.
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Could anyone tell me how to assess the conditions of a cummins engine? I'm going to pull my spare motor out of my parts truck in the next weeks or two, it hasn't run in a year or two, but worked ok when it was running as far as I know. It only has around 137k miles on it. I'm thinking that at least the bottom end would be ok? Is that something I could verify myself, or should I take it to an engine shop to verify? I'd eventually like to build it to about 300hp and swap it into my dodge. (Spare motor is a 98.5 24v cummins, project truck is a 2000). Anything else I should consider?
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Finally got my steering box stabilizer installed today. Progress isn't being made as fast as I'd like, but hopefully with a new garage in the works, it will start to move faster soon!
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/582/23580283070_074e1aa232_c.jpg)
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Observation: I just have to note and appreciate a man who is taking steps to improve his condition. Here is an old truck which is probably being worked on outside in some driveway which is being cared for and made to live on despite life cycle failures.
I salute you and all of those who take matters into their own hands and do something albeit through meager and humble means to improve their lives. That lesson is lost on an ever growing percentage of Americans! No idleness nor laziness here. No sitting on one's duff waiting for a handout. Nope, none of that. Just a mature and resolute attitude to take responsibility for one's own condition and do something about it.
Showcasing this sort of thing about an old beat up truck on our website is an honor
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Thanks for your kind words Don, it does indeed help the motivation level! I'll be so excited once my garage is done sometime in January. Although, when I put this steering box stabilizer in, I was just happy to have frozen ground to lay on, as opposed to the wet/muddy ground I would have had to lay on the day before!!
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^^^ That's what I was talking about ^^^^^
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I would say the bottom end is fine on a 137K motor if it was running fine before.
You know, I keep sheets of cardboard and pieces of carpet for that.
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I was going to take the truck to my brothers today, and weld up the cracks by the steering box after our family dinner that we had out there. I went to start it up in my yard, and it fired right up, having not run in over a week. Was still a bit of wander, but the I think the brace helped for sure. I noticed the check engine light came on while I was driving there. I also noticed, while driving, the tach dropped right to zero, for about 1 second, then back up to where it was supposed to be. Never thought much of it, but seemed odd.
Anyway, after our dinner, I went to move the truck over to the building where the welder is, and it wouldn't start. Grid heater works, accessories turn on, but starter doesn't even click. I'm hoping it's a fuse, or starter wire, or something like that. Will also have to get the code reader and see what caused the CEL to turn on. As I pointed out to my wife, it's times like these that I'm glad I have a project truck that isn't my daily driver :)
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Sounds like my little blazer. Got it home, tried to get it to smog and now it won't start.
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A little off topic, but I recently came across a front Dana 60 from a 1998 Dodge 2500 that a guy has for sale. Still has everything off it, looks like he just cut the control arms to remove it from the truck. He wants $250 for it. I was thinking since I have a spare Dana 70 rear and a spare set of wheels, might be nice to collect some parts in case I ever do a swap in a half ton, or build a rugged jeep or something. Do you guys ever collect parts like that, you know, "just in case" :)
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I think that is a mating call for Norm....he has a barn full of dodge parts
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ROFLMFAO ROFLMFAO ROFLMFAO !
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Are there ever enough extra parts????
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So I finally got around to begin the tear down of my spare engine. I noticed once I tried to rotate it to remove the torque converter that I couldn't get the crankshaft to turn. The power steering pump is completely removed, so I thought I'd pull of the timing gear cover to have a look.
This is what I found:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1621/25559637285_e419774bfd_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1619/25559643655_7c48ca2239_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1472/25466917431_78a7f31c73_c.jpg)
So what do you make of this? Not sure how this would have broken. Nothing else appears to have been wrecked. The original owner thought the power steering pump was seized, but this might have been the reason it was parked and wouldn't start, as the power steering pump isn't seized. I haven't yet check to see how much oil is in it, perhaps the oil pump seized and snapped it.
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I would say one of the timing case bolts fell out and got between the gears. Never seen the oil pump break like that. I would look in the oil pan for the offending part. Didn't think this was an issue on later Cummins
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I tend to collect parts that are either A: difficult to find or B: can be had for a smokin deal knowing there's a high probability that I'll be using one again in the future. to my knowledge.. the 2nd gen Dana 60s weren't the most sought after models.. but then having one as a direct replacement bolt in surely doesn't seem like a bad idea to me. esp not for $250..
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I would say one of the timing case bolts fell out and got between the gears. Never seen the oil pump break like that. I would look in the oil pan for the offending part. Didn't think this was an issue on later Cummins
If you look close at pic #2 you can also see one of the teeth on the pump gear has an edge chipped off, so I would would agree that something must have gotten in there. Once I pull the pan I'll look for some more evidence.
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The oil pump spins freely, but not too freely?
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The oil pump spins freely, but not too freely?
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No, if I remember correctly, I can't turn it by hand, but I'll check again tonight.
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Well I had to be the bearer of bad news but if they didn't shut down the engine down pretty quick then I would say the bottom end might not be much good.
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Well I had to be the bearer of bad news but if they didn't shut down the engine down pretty quick then I would say the bottom end might not be much good.
Yea, I'm thinking I may just take it all apart and get it to the machine shop. Maybe a potential p-pump'd 24v project is in the works!
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that's pretty strange there. did you find the idler gear for the oil pump (or is that is on the table?) have you pulled the oil pan off to see if your culprit is down in the pan? looks like all the case bolts and KDP are in place..
there a chance the bearing/shaft of the idler just gave way and sheared off?? doesn't sound like anything I have ever heard of.. but who knows at this point. hahah
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that's pretty strange there. did you find the idler gear for the oil pump (or is that is on the table?) have you pulled the oil pan off to see if your culprit is down in the pan? looks like all the case bolts and KDP are in place..
there a chance the bearing/shaft of the idler just gave way and sheared off?? doesn't sound like anything I have ever heard of.. but who knows at this point. hahah
The idler was still where it was supposed to be, but since the housing was broke, it was sort of sitting half cocked, and only sort of meshed in the pump and crank gears. Odd for sure. The forensics will begin soon, stay tuned!
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maybe.. it was a hairline crack in the oil pump casting that eventually failed after many miles.. causing it to do crooked and subsequently chip a tooth on the pump itself. I bet cummins would be interested to this too..
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Finally got the big blue machine into my new garage the other day. Took off the drivers door, hoping that all the door needed was some new hinge pins, but the door is cracked around the latch (like many dodge trucks of this vintage). Trying to decide if I should attempt a fix, or find a different door.
Every time I see a little thing like this, that I decide to take a step further and fix it, makes me think this could be snowballing into a sqaureD of my own lol
Also, got a few drive line leaks to take care of. May just be one leak, haven't verified yet if it's some fluid that blew it's way down the drive line from being driven on the road, or if there's actually a leak in 2 or 3 spots.
Will get some pics of soon though!
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I had a 97 3500 with a mechanics box on it. Door was always a little loose. I ran it through an auction and sold it and when they were driving it up to the front after it sold the guy got out and when he opened the door it dang near fell off. Top hinge broke completely. All I could do was laugh and say all sales final man. I had no clue that was even an issue with those trucks
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So I've decided I will stick with my original plan, and only fix what needs fixing for now, so that I have this big truck to use for hauling if I happen to find a project that needs to be moved on a trailer. (really hoping to find an 81-87 chevy 4x4!!)
So with that in mind, I will fix, basically the only two rust spots on the truck. Which are the driver side rocker, and a small hole in the floor surrounding the e-brake cable, as shown here:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1465/25808161402_91be5e8fed_c.jpg)
And here's the rocker:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1535/25903043376_f3b230aaae_c.jpg)
I also have a few small leaks coming from under the truck. One appears to be dripping on the skid plate that is under the transfer case, the other appears to be from between the transmission and engine bell housing, and the third almost as far up as the radiator, which I from what I can tell, appears to be power steering fluid.
Here's t-case:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1564/25296260234_3105642552_c.jpg)
And here's where the drip was still hanging between engine and trans.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1444/25808185042_5216df332f_c.jpg)
I had wiped the drips off before I took the pictures to see if the drips would show up in the same spot. The previous owner not only had a lawncare business, but also and undercoating business. This is how the underside of the truck managed to stay in such solid shape, the downside is that the whole underneath of the truck is covered with a mix of sticky undercoating and dirt. Oh well, good job for the pressure washer someday!
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Doesn't look bad at all
A couple quality hours on the pressure washer will have that looking much better and you thoroughly coated with grease!
Yippee!
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Haha yup, though no worse than when I had to use the pressure washer in the back of the dump truck we had finished hauling manure in....
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For the older new truck the GM square body's were made up to 91. Only the basic 1500-2500 got the new body's. Suburbans and K30's kept the old style and the 91s normally had a 4L80e with a stand alone tranny pcm.
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For the older new truck the GM square body's were made up to 91. Only the basic 1500-2500 got the new body's. Suburbans and K30's kept the old style and the 91s normally had a 4L80e with a stand alone tranny pcm.
Very interesting, I didn't know that, thanks for the heads up!
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So I'm looking at a couple preventative measures here as I fix stuff up. Number one being getting a decent lift pump and installing a fuel pressure gauge. I'm thinking a FASS 150, since I plan on keeping stock for now, but may upgrade the power in the future. I seem to recall Big Don having a less than stellar experience with the Air Dog. Any thoughts?
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I've been happy with the Fass.
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Also, can the FASS go directly from it's output to the input of the injection pump? ie. do I need to use the filter that is on the engine block as well, and if I do would it cause me a slight pressure loss?
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I have been hearing that factory lift pump/filter on the 6bt either works or does not. Sure Norm will chime in and the SD built covers some of that too.
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Well I pulled the trigger on the FASS Titanium 150. I got $150 off the price because the dealer price matched an online price that I found. So hopefully it will be a good choice.
In the meantime, I'll try to get that small crack in the frame welded while I'm waiting for the pump to get here. I'm thinking I might order some seals for trans and t-case as well. See if that will stop my drips.
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Got the steering box and sway bar unbolted and out of the way today so that I can access the crack that was on the frame by the steering box.
You can see it in this picture, it's not as bad as I'd thought. It goes from just the bottom of the frame rail to about half way up the side of the rail. Just in the picture where the wall of the frame rail curves in, is pretty much where the crack stops. I've already drilled a hold in the end of the crack on the bottom of the rail. I should be able to drill the other end now as well and then weld it up, well once I get my new bottle of C-25 for the MIG welder anyway.
The steering stabilizer I put on seemed to have made a difference, and will hopefully prevent a re-crack once I weld it!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1551/25921538571_f7fdf14f90_c.jpg)
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Well I got the hole drilled at the other end of the crack (now visible in top pic), and cleaned the paint off of the area. I was wondering also if it makes sense to run a cutting wheel along the crack to make a bit of a groove to get better weld penetration? I'll likely be using .025 MIG wire and C-25 gas. I have that so that I can use it for body panels as well. It's either that or the .035 flux core wire I have.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1551/25948462681_6810a5eb2a_z.jpg)
This is a pic look up from the bottom.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1534/25412556423_2d4bb0589e_z.jpg)
Harder to see the crack along the bottom now, it's very slight.
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I'd likely groove it with a grinder.
I'm Leary of the .025 tho, not sure you can get enough heat with that wire.
I'd suggest getting some .035 and put some good current and heat to it.
I do use flux core, but only if I can't run gas.
May be worth the investment in some solid .035.
Just my .02 and others likely will chime in too.
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I also removed the housing with the CAD fork and vacuum actuator assembly. It wasn't engaging before, and I personally think doing it with vacuum lines is a little silly. I think I'm going to do the simple mod that will keep the CAD locked, and then all I have to do for 4wd is shift the lever in the transfer case. Should change the gear oil while I'm at it, it looks a little on the cloudy side.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1606/25429735044_3d7fcfa193_z.jpg)
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Flux core is fine unless you want a really pretty weld. No need to grind a bevel if you have enough heat for good penetration. .035 and good heat=GTG
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If it does crack again it will not be on the weld, it will crack on steel near the weld as the weld is harder than the original steel.
Got the steering box and sway bar unbolted and out of the way today so that I can access the crack that was on the frame by the steering box.
You can see it in this picture, it's not as bad as I'd thought. It goes from just the bottom of the frame rail to about half way up the side of the rail. Just in the picture where the wall of the frame rail curves in, is pretty much where the crack stops. I've already drilled a hold in the end of the crack on the bottom of the rail. I should be able to drill the other end now as well and then weld it up, well once I get my new bottle of C-25 for the MIG welder anyway.
The steering stabilizer I put on seemed to have made a difference, and will hopefully prevent a re-crack once I weld it!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1551/25921538571_f7fdf14f90_c.jpg)
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Flux core is fine unless you want a really pretty weld. No need to grind a bevel if you have enough heat for good penetration. .035 and good heat=GTG
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Yes, I heeded the advice of SammConn and yourself and grabbed some .035 MIG wire. Should do the trick!
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I got the crack welded up on the weekend. A couple spots have a little more weld build up than they should, but I sure had to work in some awkward positions when trying to get in under the steering box. Had to hold a flashlight with one hand, get some sort of kung-fu grip in the mig gun and pull the trigger with my thumb. Anyway. hopefully it will look ok once it's ground down. I'll throw some paint on it and get the steering box and brace bolted back up.
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I also removed the housing with the CAD fork and vacuum actuator assembly. It wasn't engaging before, and I personally think doing it with vacuum lines is a little silly. I think I'm going to do the simple mod that will keep the CAD locked, and then all I have to do for 4wd is shift the lever in the transfer case. Should change the gear oil while I'm at it, it looks a little on the cloudy side.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1606/25429735044_3d7fcfa193_z.jpg)
If you get tired of that CAD system, I have figured out how to convert the late model 32 spline to 35 w/ a spider gear set along with this guy: https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=12143
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I have been thinking about that, but hadn't stumbled across that item yet, thanks for the link. It does say 94-99, though, mine's a 2000, would there be any difference I wonder?
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you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.
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you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.
Oh, good to know. That's definitely on the list for a future upgrade. Would it be good to switch to manual locking hubs at that point as well?
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Hurray, look what showed up today!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1634/25868362090_d24ec1ae79_z.jpg)
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you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.
Oh, good to know. That's definitely on the list for a future upgrade. Would it be good to switch to manual locking hubs at that point as well?
if you're at all concerned about longevity of the front end I would. With the CAD delete, the whole assembly will be constantly rotating. with the spin free kit, you will have manual control, you'll be on spindles and bearings rather than unit bearings, and would be stronger at the corners.
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As a temporary fix until I can afford a 1-piece passenger side axle and hubs, I'm going to leave the CAD engaged. I took the CAD system apart, and will use a cored brass plug in place of the vacuum accuator, and trim the rod off accordingly and will lock it in the "engaged" position.
Here it is disassembled.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1720/25607706474_ddc3bfe9d1_z.jpg)
Threaded the hole with 3/8" NPT tap. And the center of the plug is the same size as the rod.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1539/26186553136_b5754bc66b_z.jpg)
And with the plug screwed in. I didn't trim the rod to length yet, but it's a simple matter of getting the mini grinder out.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1575/25939579820_2c23a8820f_z.jpg)
I will leave the switch in place and just unplug it rather than trying to find another plug with the same thread, or drilling/tapping it or whatever.
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I used to drive my old chevy around like that all the time. Not the greatst for mileage or wear, but you have 4x4 when you want it and in 2x one wheel turns with the other that does help a little when slippery.
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Got a new compressor today, in fact the first compressor I've ever owned! Should certainly help with this, and future builds.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1547/26335325255_796a1f5b2b_c.jpg)
It's made in Canada, much like myself. It's a single stage, 60 gallon with 3 cylinder pump. Will do 20 CFM @90PSI. Gonna get a quick connect to put on the compressor as well, but had just screwed the hose in for now to test it out. It's really much more quiet than I thought it would be, you can talk standing within arms reach of it. My brother has a 2 cyl. Campbell Hausfield that is much louder. Anyway, hope it lasts me for many years, sure will be a welcome addition!
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Oh you have done it now. Once you have compressed air you cannot be without it!
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That's the truth!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That looks like a good pump!
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I had to do a close up of the pump, it looks real similar to my old eaton single stage I put a million man hours on.....
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So this happened yesterday!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1485/26514703306_e8e428c40b_c.jpg)
I got looking at the spot where there was rust, and the sound deadening material under the vinyl was wet along the rocker and had mud and stuff in there. So I figured rather than waiting until it rots right through I'm going to strip it all out, replace what metal needs to be replaced and put in new flooring.
I would someday like this truck to be able to haul our little camper and other toys on long trips with my family, so I might as well do it up right!
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I see some work ahead, better now than when you have too.
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Got the back seat removed and lifted up the vinyl and sound deadening material. It was a little wet under there, likely due to the fact that the rear window latch is broken, and someone try to keep the windows shut with tape (which split). Not too many spots where it's right through, but a good bit of surface rust on the driver floor pan, and the driver rocker needs fixing too. I'm glad I decided to do this now, since as wet as it was it would have rust right through eventually.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1656/26549406705_76327e476f_c.jpg)
Also that sort of greenish gray stuff that they stick on (not sure what it's called) is trapping some moisture as well, so I will scrape/pry that up. Pretty much get it all down to good metal again, unless it's got no rust at all of course. I may even take some pics to a body shop and see what it would cost to have them weld some new metal in. As much as I like to do it myself, bodywork is not my forte, and I would like it done right so I can avoid it again in the near future.
Luckily all the seat bolts came out easily, as did the seats, so as long as the floor/rockers can be fixed everything should be easy to get back together.