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I would say one of the timing case bolts fell out and got between the gears. Never seen the oil pump break like that. I would look in the oil pan for the offending part. Didn't think this was an issue on later Cummins
The oil pump spins freely, but not too freely? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Well I had to be the bearer of bad news but if they didn't shut down the engine down pretty quick then I would say the bottom end might not be much good.
that's pretty strange there. did you find the idler gear for the oil pump (or is that is on the table?) have you pulled the oil pan off to see if your culprit is down in the pan? looks like all the case bolts and KDP are in place.. there a chance the bearing/shaft of the idler just gave way and sheared off?? doesn't sound like anything I have ever heard of.. but who knows at this point. hahah
For the older new truck the GM square body's were made up to 91. Only the basic 1500-2500 got the new body's. Suburbans and K30's kept the old style and the 91s normally had a 4L80e with a stand alone tranny pcm.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
Got the steering box and sway bar unbolted and out of the way today so that I can access the crack that was on the frame by the steering box.You can see it in this picture, it's not as bad as I'd thought. It goes from just the bottom of the frame rail to about half way up the side of the rail. Just in the picture where the wall of the frame rail curves in, is pretty much where the crack stops. I've already drilled a hold in the end of the crack on the bottom of the rail. I should be able to drill the other end now as well and then weld it up, well once I get my new bottle of C-25 for the MIG welder anyway.The steering stabilizer I put on seemed to have made a difference, and will hopefully prevent a re-crack once I weld it!
Flux core is fine unless you want a really pretty weld. No need to grind a bevel if you have enough heat for good penetration. .035 and good heat=GTGSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also removed the housing with the CAD fork and vacuum actuator assembly. It wasn't engaging before, and I personally think doing it with vacuum lines is a little silly. I think I'm going to do the simple mod that will keep the CAD locked, and then all I have to do for 4wd is shift the lever in the transfer case. Should change the gear oil while I'm at it, it looks a little on the cloudy side.
you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.
Quote from: EL TATE on March 30, 2016, 06:00:21 PMyou may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.Oh, good to know. That's definitely on the list for a future upgrade. Would it be good to switch to manual locking hubs at that point as well?