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Author Topic: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins  (Read 21804 times)

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Offline Nate

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #50 on: December 30, 2015, 07:44:00 PM »
ROFLMFAO ROFLMFAO ROFLMFAO !
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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #51 on: December 30, 2015, 11:25:10 PM »
Are there ever enough extra parts????
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #52 on: March 06, 2016, 11:53:09 AM »
So I finally got around to begin the tear down of my spare engine. I noticed once I tried to rotate it to remove the torque converter that I couldn't get the crankshaft to turn. The power steering pump is completely removed, so I thought I'd pull of the timing gear cover to have a look.

This is what I found:







So what do you make of this? Not sure how this would have broken. Nothing else appears to have been wrecked. The original owner thought the power steering pump was seized, but this might have been the reason it was parked and wouldn't start, as the power steering pump isn't seized. I haven't yet check to see how much oil is in it, perhaps the oil pump seized and snapped it.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2016, 02:21:42 PM by rcampbell »

Offline wilsonphil

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #53 on: March 07, 2016, 12:13:56 AM »
I would say one of the timing case bolts fell out and got between the gears.  Never seen the oil pump break like that.  I would look in the oil pan for the offending part.  Didn't think this was an issue on later Cummins

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #54 on: March 07, 2016, 07:06:31 AM »
I tend to collect parts that are either A: difficult to find or B: can be had for a smokin deal knowing there's a high probability that I'll be using one again in the future. to my knowledge.. the 2nd gen Dana 60s weren't the most sought after models.. but then having one as a direct replacement bolt in surely doesn't seem like a bad idea to me. esp not for $250..

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #55 on: March 07, 2016, 07:31:07 AM »
I would say one of the timing case bolts fell out and got between the gears.  Never seen the oil pump break like that.  I would look in the oil pan for the offending part.  Didn't think this was an issue on later Cummins

If you look close at pic #2 you can also see one of the teeth on the pump gear has an edge chipped off, so I would would agree that something must have gotten in there. Once I pull the pan I'll look for some more evidence.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #56 on: March 07, 2016, 08:45:11 AM »
The oil pump spins freely, but not too freely?

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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #57 on: March 07, 2016, 09:48:19 AM »
The oil pump spins freely, but not too freely?

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No, if I remember correctly, I can't turn it by hand, but I'll check again tonight.

Offline wilsonphil

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #58 on: March 07, 2016, 10:28:12 AM »
Well I had to be the bearer of bad news but if they didn't shut down the engine down pretty quick then I would say the bottom end might not be much good.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #59 on: March 07, 2016, 12:43:46 PM »
Well I had to be the bearer of bad news but if they didn't shut down the engine down pretty quick then I would say the bottom end might not be much good.

Yea, I'm thinking I may just take it all apart and get it to the machine shop. Maybe a potential p-pump'd 24v project is in the works!

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #60 on: March 07, 2016, 09:35:00 PM »
that's pretty strange there. did you find the idler gear for the oil pump (or is that is on the table?) have you pulled the oil pan off to see if your culprit is down in the pan? looks like all the case bolts and KDP are in place..

there a chance the bearing/shaft of the idler just gave way and sheared off?? doesn't sound like anything I have ever heard of.. but who knows at this point. hahah

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #61 on: March 08, 2016, 07:39:05 AM »
that's pretty strange there. did you find the idler gear for the oil pump (or is that is on the table?) have you pulled the oil pan off to see if your culprit is down in the pan? looks like all the case bolts and KDP are in place..

there a chance the bearing/shaft of the idler just gave way and sheared off?? doesn't sound like anything I have ever heard of.. but who knows at this point. hahah

The idler was still where it was supposed to be, but since the housing was broke, it was sort of sitting half cocked, and only sort of meshed in the pump and crank gears. Odd for sure. The forensics will begin soon, stay tuned!

Offline swbhobie16

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #62 on: March 08, 2016, 01:21:43 PM »
maybe.. it was a hairline crack in the oil pump casting that eventually failed after many miles.. causing it to do crooked and subsequently chip a tooth on the pump itself. I bet cummins would be interested to this too..

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #63 on: March 16, 2016, 08:53:11 PM »
Finally got the big blue machine into my new garage the other day. Took off the drivers door, hoping that all the door needed was some new hinge pins, but the door is cracked around the latch (like many dodge trucks of this vintage). Trying to decide if I should attempt a fix, or find a different door.

Every time I see a little thing like this, that I decide to take a step further and fix it, makes me think this could be snowballing into a sqaureD of my own lol

Also, got a few drive line leaks to take care of. May just be one leak, haven't verified yet if it's some fluid that blew it's way down the drive line from being driven on the road, or if there's actually a leak in 2 or 3 spots.

Will get some pics of soon though!

Offline husker77c

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #64 on: March 16, 2016, 09:45:33 PM »
I had a 97 3500 with a mechanics box on it.  Door was always a little loose.  I ran it through an auction and sold it and when they were driving it up to the front after it sold the guy got out and when he opened the door it dang near fell off.  Top hinge broke completely.  All I could do was laugh and say all sales final man.   I had no clue that was even an issue with those trucks


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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #65 on: March 20, 2016, 07:29:58 AM »
So I've decided I will stick with my original plan, and only fix what needs fixing for now, so that I have this big truck to use for hauling if I happen to find a project that needs to be moved on a trailer. (really hoping to find an 81-87 chevy 4x4!!)

So with that in mind, I will fix, basically the only two rust spots on the truck. Which are the driver side rocker, and a small hole in the floor surrounding the e-brake cable, as shown here:



And here's the rocker:




I also have a few small leaks coming from under the truck. One appears to be dripping on the skid plate that is under the transfer case, the other appears to be from between the transmission and engine bell housing, and the third almost as far up as the radiator, which I from what I can tell, appears to be power steering fluid.

Here's t-case:



And here's where the drip was still hanging between engine and trans.




I had wiped the drips off before I took the pictures to see if the drips would show up in the same spot. The previous owner not only had a lawncare business, but also and undercoating business. This is how the underside of the truck managed to stay in such solid shape, the downside is that the whole underneath of the truck is covered with a mix of sticky undercoating and dirt. Oh well, good job for the pressure washer someday!

Offline Flyin6

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #66 on: March 20, 2016, 08:43:12 AM »
Doesn't look bad at all

A couple quality hours on the pressure washer will have that looking much better and you thoroughly coated with grease!
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #67 on: March 20, 2016, 10:29:08 AM »
Haha yup, though no worse than when I had to use the pressure washer in the back of the dump truck we had finished hauling manure in....

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #68 on: March 20, 2016, 01:06:26 PM »
For the older new truck the GM square body's were made up to 91. Only the basic 1500-2500 got the new body's. Suburbans and K30's kept the old style and the 91s normally had a 4L80e with a stand alone tranny pcm.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #69 on: March 20, 2016, 02:13:50 PM »
For the older new truck the GM square body's were made up to 91. Only the basic 1500-2500 got the new body's. Suburbans and K30's kept the old style and the 91s normally had a 4L80e with a stand alone tranny pcm.

Very interesting, I didn't know that, thanks for the heads up!

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #70 on: March 22, 2016, 07:38:43 AM »
So I'm looking at a couple preventative measures here as I fix stuff up. Number one being getting a decent lift pump and installing a fuel pressure gauge. I'm thinking a FASS 150, since I plan on keeping stock for now, but may upgrade the power in the future. I seem to recall Big Don having a less than stellar experience with the Air Dog. Any thoughts?

Offline KensAuto

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #71 on: March 22, 2016, 10:04:23 AM »
I've been happy with the Fass.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #72 on: March 22, 2016, 10:20:55 AM »
Also, can the FASS go directly from it's output to the input of the injection pump? ie. do I need to use the filter that is on the engine block as well, and if I do would it cause me a slight pressure loss?

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #73 on: March 22, 2016, 11:02:17 AM »
I have been hearing that factory lift pump/filter on the 6bt either works or does not. Sure Norm will chime in and the SD built covers some of that too.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #74 on: March 23, 2016, 07:55:55 AM »
Well I pulled the trigger on the FASS Titanium 150. I got $150 off the price because the dealer price matched an online price that I found. So hopefully it will be a good choice.

In the meantime, I'll try to get that small crack in the frame welded while I'm waiting for the pump to get here. I'm thinking I might order some seals for trans and t-case as well. See if that will stop my drips.

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #75 on: March 23, 2016, 08:05:56 PM »
Got the steering box and sway bar unbolted and out of the way today so that I can access the crack that was on the frame by the steering box.

You can see it in this picture, it's not as bad as I'd thought. It goes from just the bottom of the frame rail to about half way up the side of the rail. Just in the picture where the wall of the frame rail curves in, is pretty much where the crack stops. I've already drilled a hold in the end of the crack on the bottom of the rail. I should be able to drill the other end now as well and then weld it up, well once I get my new bottle of C-25 for the MIG welder anyway.

The steering stabilizer I put on seemed to have made a difference, and will hopefully prevent a re-crack once I weld it!


Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #76 on: March 24, 2016, 07:26:49 PM »
Well I got the hole drilled at the other end of the crack (now visible in top pic), and cleaned the paint off of the area. I was wondering also if it makes sense to run a cutting wheel along the crack to make a bit of a groove to get better weld penetration? I'll likely be using .025 MIG wire and C-25 gas. I have that so that I can use it for body panels as well. It's either that or the .035 flux core wire I have.



This is a pic look up from the bottom.



Harder to see the crack along the bottom now, it's very slight.

Offline Sammconn

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #77 on: March 24, 2016, 07:52:14 PM »
I'd likely groove it with a grinder.
I'm Leary of the .025 tho, not sure you can get enough heat with that wire.
I'd suggest getting some .035 and put some good current and heat to it.
I do use flux core, but only if I can't run gas.
May be worth the investment in some solid .035.
Just my .02 and others likely will chime in too.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #78 on: March 25, 2016, 06:37:14 PM »
I also removed the housing with the CAD fork and vacuum actuator assembly. It wasn't engaging before, and I personally think doing it with vacuum lines is a little silly. I think I'm going to do the simple mod that will keep the CAD locked, and then all I have to do for 4wd is shift the lever in the transfer case. Should change the gear oil while I'm at it, it looks a little on the cloudy side.


Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #79 on: March 26, 2016, 09:25:28 AM »
Flux core is fine unless you want a really pretty weld. No need to grind a bevel if you have enough heat for good penetration. .035 and good heat=GTG


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Offline stlaser

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #80 on: March 26, 2016, 10:07:44 AM »
If it does crack again it will not be on the weld, it will crack on steel near the weld as the weld is harder than the original steel.


Got the steering box and sway bar unbolted and out of the way today so that I can access the crack that was on the frame by the steering box.

You can see it in this picture, it's not as bad as I'd thought. It goes from just the bottom of the frame rail to about half way up the side of the rail. Just in the picture where the wall of the frame rail curves in, is pretty much where the crack stops. I've already drilled a hold in the end of the crack on the bottom of the rail. I should be able to drill the other end now as well and then weld it up, well once I get my new bottle of C-25 for the MIG welder anyway.

The steering stabilizer I put on seemed to have made a difference, and will hopefully prevent a re-crack once I weld it!


Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #81 on: March 26, 2016, 10:14:43 AM »
Flux core is fine unless you want a really pretty weld. No need to grind a bevel if you have enough heat for good penetration. .035 and good heat=GTG


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Yes, I heeded the advice of SammConn and yourself and grabbed some .035 MIG wire. Should do the trick!

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #82 on: March 28, 2016, 08:24:15 AM »
I got the crack welded up on the weekend. A couple spots have a little more weld build up than they should, but I sure had to work in some awkward positions when trying to get in under the steering box. Had to hold a flashlight with one hand, get some sort of kung-fu grip in the mig gun and pull the trigger with my thumb. Anyway. hopefully it will look ok once it's ground down. I'll throw some paint on it and get the steering box and brace bolted back up.

Offline EL TATE

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #83 on: March 28, 2016, 09:42:25 AM »
I also removed the housing with the CAD fork and vacuum actuator assembly. It wasn't engaging before, and I personally think doing it with vacuum lines is a little silly. I think I'm going to do the simple mod that will keep the CAD locked, and then all I have to do for 4wd is shift the lever in the transfer case. Should change the gear oil while I'm at it, it looks a little on the cloudy side.



If you get tired of that CAD system, I have figured out how to convert the late model 32 spline to 35 w/ a spider gear set along with this guy: https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=12143
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #84 on: March 28, 2016, 10:10:39 AM »
I have been thinking about that, but hadn't stumbled across that item yet, thanks for the link. It does say 94-99, though, mine's a 2000, would there be any difference I wonder?

Offline EL TATE

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #85 on: March 30, 2016, 06:00:21 PM »
you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #86 on: March 30, 2016, 06:19:09 PM »
you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.

Oh, good to know. That's definitely on the list for a future upgrade. Would it be good to switch to manual locking hubs at that point as well?

Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #87 on: March 30, 2016, 06:19:33 PM »
Hurray, look what showed up today!


Offline EL TATE

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #88 on: March 30, 2016, 06:52:19 PM »
you may need to machine out the retention boss that holds the little bronze support bearing for the extreme inner shaft. in some 00-02 designs that's in the way, but in others there is no CAD system at all, and it already has a solid axle. for those reasons we listed it to 99 only as a direct fit kit, but I've done several pull trucks 00+ that worked just fine.

Oh, good to know. That's definitely on the list for a future upgrade. Would it be good to switch to manual locking hubs at that point as well?

if you're at all concerned about longevity of the front end I would. With the CAD delete, the whole assembly will be constantly rotating. with the spin free kit, you will have manual control, you'll be on spindles and bearings rather than unit bearings, and would be stronger at the corners.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #89 on: April 03, 2016, 12:14:49 PM »
As a temporary fix until I can afford a 1-piece passenger side axle and hubs, I'm going to leave the CAD engaged. I took the CAD system apart, and will use a cored brass plug in place of the vacuum accuator, and trim the rod off accordingly and will lock it in the "engaged" position.

Here it is disassembled.



Threaded the hole with 3/8" NPT tap. And the center of the plug is the same size as the rod.



And with the plug screwed in. I didn't trim the rod to length yet, but it's a simple matter of getting the mini grinder out.



I will leave the switch in place and just unplug it rather than trying to find another plug with the same thread, or drilling/tapping it or whatever.


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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #90 on: April 03, 2016, 03:18:33 PM »
I used to drive my old chevy around like that all the time. Not the greatst for mileage or wear, but you have 4x4 when you want it and in 2x one wheel turns with the other that does help a little when slippery.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #91 on: April 09, 2016, 07:53:47 PM »
Got a new compressor today, in fact the first compressor I've ever owned! Should certainly help with this, and future builds.



It's made in Canada, much like myself. It's a single stage, 60 gallon with 3 cylinder pump. Will do 20 CFM @90PSI. Gonna get a quick connect to put on the compressor as well, but had just screwed the hose in for now to test it out. It's really much more quiet than I thought it would be, you can talk standing within arms reach of it. My brother has a 2 cyl. Campbell Hausfield that is much louder. Anyway, hope it lasts me for many years, sure will be a welcome addition!

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #92 on: April 09, 2016, 08:06:20 PM »
Oh you have done it now. Once you have compressed air you cannot be without it!
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Offline cj7ox

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #93 on: April 09, 2016, 08:08:58 PM »
That's the truth!


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Offline Flyin6

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #94 on: April 10, 2016, 03:18:26 PM »
That looks like a good pump!
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Offline stlaser

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #95 on: April 10, 2016, 04:16:33 PM »
I had to do a close up of the pump, it looks real similar to my old eaton single stage I put a million man hours on.....
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #96 on: April 20, 2016, 08:58:51 AM »
So this happened yesterday!



I got looking at the spot where there was rust, and the sound deadening material under the vinyl was wet along the rocker and had mud and stuff in there. So I figured rather than waiting until it rots right through I'm going to strip it all out, replace what metal needs to be replaced and put in new flooring.

I would someday like this truck to be able to haul our little camper and other toys on long trips with my family, so I might as well do it up right!

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #97 on: April 20, 2016, 10:43:24 AM »
I see some work ahead, better now than when you have too.
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Offline rcampbell

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Re: 2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 QC Long Box Cummins
« Reply #98 on: April 20, 2016, 07:42:38 PM »
Got the back seat removed and lifted up the vinyl and sound deadening material. It was a little wet under there, likely due to the fact that the rear window latch is broken, and someone try to keep the windows shut with tape (which split). Not too many spots where it's right through, but a good bit of surface rust on the driver floor pan, and the driver rocker needs fixing too. I'm glad I decided to do this now, since as wet as it was it would have rust right through eventually.



Also that sort of greenish gray stuff that they stick on (not sure what it's called) is trapping some moisture as well, so I will scrape/pry that up. Pretty much get it all down to good metal again, unless it's got no rust at all of course. I may even take some pics to a body shop and see what it would cost to have them weld some new metal in. As much as I like to do it myself, bodywork is not my forte, and I would like it done right so I can avoid it again in the near future.

Luckily all the seat bolts came out easily, as did the seats, so as long as the floor/rockers can be fixed everything should be easy to get back together.

 

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