VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS > Powerplant, Driveline, and Braking
2003 Ram 2500 front diff
JR:
Nice little writeup. Yep, Tate needs to liven up on the vids a tad. Gets the point across though.
stlaser:
Nice writeup.
wilsonphil:
Update on the lower ball joint socket. I wanted everyone to see how bad the socket was so you know what I was up against. As you can see from the attached picture they did a number on the socket. I cleaned up the socket best as possible and de-greased the socket, very lightly scuffed up the socket surface. I mixed up a small amount of the epoxy to fill in the gouge areas and then cleaned once more and applied the primer to the socket and to the ball joint housing and then the epoxy. Next I applied primer to the ball joint housing and then the retaining compound, then pressed the joint into the socket.
I ordered one of the EMF lower units its the oversize body and is rebuildable.
Pressed in real nice and as of right now no movement, Ill give it 24hrs before I drive so everything gets to full strength. For future the ball joint housing should never have to come out, just change out the internals an everything will be back to new.
1. Locktite EA 3476 Structural Epoxy
2. Locktite SF 7649 Primer
3. Locktite 660 retaining compound
Flyin6:
That epoxy is the real deal. I'd think that is a permanent repair. Having used it on some challenging applications, like when I repaired a puncture in the tractor's intercooler, I have seen zero degradation or failure.
wilsonphil:
Modified some stock hubcaps to fit over the Yukon Free Spin hubs, you just need a 4.5" hole saw. You can see how much more the free spin kit sticks out past the stock cap.
So far so good on the Free Spin Kit, the truck is smoother going down the road at freeway speeds without the front diff and drive shaft spinning. I have not seen a fuel mileage increase BUT I am cruzing 75-80 so I doubt I will see anything unless I drive long distance at a slower speed.
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