REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Flyin6 on January 21, 2019, 08:02:45 PM
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Hopefully I can stay ahead of the non related postings and offer some continuity to what I am building. In part 1, although I was building a LS engine, we were taking pages to chat about Cummins powered Nissans with AAM axles.
Ya, I know, I don't see the correlation either...
So I left the park over there a couple pages from the end of the mindless chatter, where I was getting ever deeper into this Suburban project. Hoping it does not turn into an "Oil-Change" and returns to being driveable, I press ever onward
With the engine secured to the HD stand I use for Cummins engines, I broke it down to just the short block
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I actually started off pressure washing it all again and then spraying some purple degreaser on some heavily gunked up steering and chassis parts. After one pressure washing I was getting down to dull aluminum
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Most things look like this AC compressor mount and will require scrubbing and paint to renew them
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Then I pulled off the motor mounts, and the oil cooler lines. Yes, the gasket had been leaking!
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Then the oil pan was removed to complete the teardown
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This oil pan is one rough, crude casting. That junk in the bottom of the sump is all casting flash, a part of the pan original casting! Other than that I found nothing and went about the business of cleaning the inside of the block up. I used a brake cleaner soaked rag and rubbed everything clean, then cleaned the gasket surfaces and cleaned it all again.
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Looking a lot cleaner:
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After cleaning as much as I could I taped it all up and applied several coats of paint
Tomorrow should start the reassembly in ernest if everything goes OK and no one needs to go to the hospital!
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Still undecided about the torque converter. The stocker was getting the job done, but the temptation to bolt something in of greater capacity and a few hundred RPM more stall is pulling at me.
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Kobota orange!!! And did I see mention of Cummins? I see that Nissan is putting them in Vans now!
Jk. Glad the motor came out easy and you were able to get the cam out with no fuss. Plus now you can switch to a larger oil pan right?
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Hey Don, for someone who can DOT someone else’s threads up in a New York minute you whine more than a liberal at a trump rally.... :tongue:
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I'll wait till part 12 of this oil change before saying anything wise azz. ;)
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Hey Don, for someone who can DOT someone else’s threads up in a New York minute you whine more than a liberal at a trump rally.... :tongue:
Oh shiZ
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Hey Don, for someone who can DOT someone else’s threads up in a New York minute you whine more than a liberal at a trump rally.... :tongue:
Oh shiZ
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:facepalm:
:popcorn:
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Well you got it out and are flirting with an oil change you might as well install a stroker kit
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ohh for goodness sake.. leave the man alone. he’s just trying to get a reliable grocery getter. no need to get into TTs and centrifugal blowers on an LS.
ohh wait. did i say that out loud? :cheesy:
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:popcorn:
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Hey Don, for someone who can DOT someone else’s threads up in a New York minute you whine more than a liberal at a trump rally.... :tongue:
Stop it! ;-))
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Well you got it out and are flirting with an oil change you might as well install a stroker kit
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I knew someone was going to say that!
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ohh for goodness sake.. leave the man alone. he’s just trying to get a reliable grocery getter. no need to get into TTs and centrifugal blowers on an LS.
ohh wait. did i say that out loud? :cheesy:
Yea, leave the man alone...!!!
OK, then, back to the Kubota engine it is! ;-))
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That’s starting to look like a Mopar block all oranged up!
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That’s starting to look like a Mopar block all oranged up!
Dave sez its Kubota, I thought it was black, so whatever...I'm good
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Starting to zero in on the bumper with Bear (Brian). Hey, that's close to bear Bryant...Roll tide!
Going with three different sized holes in the front bumper, 5" inside, 4" just outside of that, and 3" in the flats on the sides for rock crawling lights
He was playing with ideas for a brush guard, but for now, I'll forgo that and just get a bumper/winch on the front to bolster capability
We still have some work to do on the rear, and we have decided to re-install the factory hitch in lieu of Brian's much heavier, and more capable offering pictured below:
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That Brian guy is sure professional, using fancy computers and what not. ..bet he works on space ships as a hobby...oh wait, that's the pig sticking guy out west.
Kidding aside, I like the design(s).
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Well like always, I like using talent from right here, like you, Ken as you will see shortly with tonight's post. Yes, Brian is easy to work with and pays attention to detail. I hope that lots of folks see his work here and order bumpers from him.
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So the paint cured out fine. My Kubota engine is lookin' purdy!
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order bumpers from him.
I was going to for XJ but it went away before I could. Perhaps with the WK2, since apparently only ARB wants to make a front bumper and no one makes a rear bumper.
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But one thing that wasn't very nice looking is the oil pan. Look at that casting flash. Must have been cast in a russian tank factory!
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Wire brushed, sanded smooth, cleaned and re-cleaned, and painted
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Gave a similar treatment to the other parts and coated the motor mounts with bed liner. Harbor Freight stuff, but sprays like the more expensive stuff
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And oh, by the way, this is the single pesky bolt that caused me to remove the engine from the chassis. Like many of you suggested, it just made too much sense not to!
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Felpro center valley cover gasket kit
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Which included the rubber seals that seal contaminants out of the engine internals while isolating the knock sensors
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That went together easily
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New wiring harness as per Ken's recommendation
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Used some stickems to hold down the harness, then applied a 1/4" tall dam of RTV as per the GM bulletin that Ken also supplied. So, thanks to him, I think the job is done right.
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It's a 6.0L for sure!
Next up the cam/timing cover. Bolts loose for now, snugged after the oil pan install
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Bolting stuff back on...good feeling to reverse the trend line!
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Felpro supplied the oil pan gasket. I applied four small dabs of RTV to the parting lines of the front and back covers where they mate to the oil pan
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Then torqued the oil pan down
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And that is the enchilada for today, get back at it in the morn.
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So I guess that means no stroker kit?
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And oh, by the way, this is the single pesky bolt that caused me to remove the engine from the chassis. Like many of you suggested, it just made too much sense not to!
Don,
Could you replace the pesky bolt for a 2 or 3" stud or cobblefabricate a longer bolt to make it easier on the next guy that need to reach it and still have clearance? :popcorn:
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So I guess that means no stroker kit?
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Not for now my friend
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And oh, by the way, this is the single pesky bolt that caused me to remove the engine from the chassis. Like many of you suggested, it just made too much sense not to!
Don,
Could you replace the pesky bolt for a 2 or 3" stud or cobblefabricate a longer bolt to make it easier on the next guy that need to reach it and still have clearance? :popcorn:
You could put a stud in there,
But
You still have to either pull the motor, or drop the front diff to get the pan down far enough to get the bolt started, and all the while you can't see what you are doing
Keep in mind, this is the MAIN AND ONLY oil supply for the engine. Get this one operation wrong and you are back to A. Pull the engine.
Secondly, remember Ken's dire warning: Don, there is no other way to say this, your oil pan is now going to leak
I'm only a pilut, and not a very bright one, but that was as clear to me as when my wife told me "If you join the Army again and go off to war, I'll divorce you! Simple easy to sort through messages are the most effective for me.
So, in the end it was the factory bolt with a dab of lock-tite blue
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Carry on then... :) Just trying to get my DOT quota in for the day. :popcorn:
Moderator Comment: Placin' you on notice, cause, I noticed what ya just said...Be careful... ;-)
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Wheels showed up from 4-wheel parts
Well spent $412!!!!!!!!!!
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Started today installing the new Fumota oil drain valve
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Starting with an extension since my oil pan has the drain plug recessed
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This one has a 90 degree petcock which can be oriented in any direction
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The drain lever is a bit counter intuitive. You'd think you need to align it with the drain port to open, but that is actually the closed position. Came with a safety clip to keep everything where its supposed to be
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Next up the oil cooler line assembly was reattached after a through cleaning and coating with clear engine enamel
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Cylinder head time. Here's the GM Performance multi layer steel gaskets which I think are the same as stock
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The gaskets have a top and one of the steam holes closed off, which makes then right and left. I made triple sure I got that right
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I popped the dowel pins out of the old 317 heads and tapped them into the block then slid everything into position
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Torque to yield cylinder head bolts are a use once then discard proposition. Summit supplied these
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Bolts were given a spot of lube on the threads and under the heads and torqued the first pass to 22 ft/lbs
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Next an angle finder is fitted to a 1/2" breaker bar and used to make a second pass in sequence on a 90 degree pull. It honestly did not feel all that tight, maybe 50ish ft/lbs I'm guessing, then a third pass of another 70 degrees. This brings the bolt to the "Yield point" and is the final tightening. The inside small bolts only get torqued to 22 ft/lbs and not again.
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And just like that, the first head is installed
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I repeated all of that on the second head and stood the engine upright for the valvetrain parts
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After applying some assembly lube the Vinci Cams chrome molly pushrods were installed followed by the stock rockers
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Then the rocker covers and the AC belt tensioner
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After sealing off the openings to protect against FOD I threw on the coil packs after applying some dieelectric grease to the weather pak connectors
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Looking good, Don. I’ve got basically the same engine in my 04 Express 2500. Makes me feel like I should just follow your blueprints and do a build on it.
Or if you get bored when you’re done with yours, I’ll let you take mine apart and play with it. :)
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Looking good, Don. I’ve got basically the same engine in my 04 Express 2500. Makes me feel like I should just follow your blueprints and do a build on it.
Or if you get bored when you’re done with yours, I’ll let you take mine apart and play with it. :)
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Dave, this isn't playing. Its some real work.
I think the payoff with these motors is huge and am hopeful for a good result
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So after much consideration I called Monster Transmission. We talked through this build, the power levels, tires/gears/weight/ and on and on. John over there felt the truck would benefit from their 1800-2000 RPM torque converter which is super strong and can handle more heat and abuse than the stocker.
The stocker locks up somewhere around 1500 ish so this new converter will allow me to get into some good torque to get the 6500-7,000 lbs moving mo-easilyer.
The price was good at $335 to my door.
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Not a bad price for a torque converter I don’t think.
Those heads sure look nice on that pretty kabota motor
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Looking good Don. Nice progress.
Not sure I would have put the coils on before the install due to my luck with damaging stuff during lifting. Be careful.
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Dave, this isn't playing. Its some real work.
I think the payoff with these motors is huge and am hopeful for a good result
I get there’s a lot of work, you just seem to be having a lot of fun. I know there is a ton of potential in these engines, I just wouldn’t even really know where to start except for what I’m reading in this thread. I think if I did anything, I might start with a donor engine, mine is at about 485k right now. Leaks some and burns some oil but still pulls strong and I’m getting about 13-14 mpg most of the time.
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very nice, as always great attention to detail. I hate when Ken's right but pulling this was the correct course.
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Not a bad price for a torque converter I don’t think.
Those heads sure look nice on that pretty kabota motor
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Dave, I think Don slipped this in the picture to subliminally combat the Kubota engine... :popcorn:
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Looking good Don. Nice progress.
Not sure I would have put the coils on before the install due to my luck with damaging stuff during lifting. Be careful.
I've been werkin' out. I'll just pick it up by hand and set it in there gently...should work...
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Dave, this isn't playing. Its some real work.
I think the payoff with these motors is huge and am hopeful for a good result
I get there’s a lot of work, you just seem to be having a lot of fun. I know there is a ton of potential in these engines, I just wouldn’t even really know where to start except for what I’m reading in this thread. I think if I did anything, I might start with a donor engine, mine is at about 485k right now. Leaks some and burns some oil but still pulls strong and I’m getting about 13-14 mpg most of the time.
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There are quite a few "recipes" for various purposes or power levels. Most focus on the highest HP number. which is inconsequential for a truck motor/daily driver.
We should be focused on how the thing behaves starting off at a light or pulling a load uphill and on fuel economy. I educated myself, then called Joe Vinci, the cam guy. He is all about "power under the curve" and had a cma which is making an extra 50-60 ft lbs of torque in the range I am driving. On top of that there is quite a bit of horsepower in the "passing gear" range so the engine should behave and deliver well in a driving environment and not be tempermental.
Having said that, the readily available 243 head casting with a LQ9 piston and a cam similar to mine would really be all that is needed to make quite the sporty engine for your people hauler. Be glad to help if you want. Best though if you tackle it mostly on your own, seeking advice and help where you are technically challenged. Feed a man a fish vs teaching him to fish and all that...
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Don,
That is looking outstanding!! I may have to go look for something to project
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Don,
That is looking outstanding!! I may have to go look for something to project
It painted and cleaned up nicely. Hopefully I can create the entire project to look well sorted through
Know this
Had it not been from input from the members on this site, I would not be at this point
I'm not sure what value you could put on good advice from knowledgeable people, but for me it is a high one
Honest and good men "suggested" I pull the motor...Which led to this. My part was only to follow the advice and do average workmanship thereafter. I'd have to give the credit to those who "Pushed" this to the point it is at
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I really like the oil drain valve. I have a couple of them on different vehicles.
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Great work so far, might be your fastest oil change yet!
That pan doesn't hang down to much, right.
:popcorn:
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How’s the missus? Motor going back in this weekend?
Not sure if you’ve seen this Don, but thought you (and the others here) might like this.
https://www.automedals.com
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Great work so far, might be your fastest oil change yet!
That pan doesn't hang down to much, right.
:popcorn:
Factory pan bro.
But yes it is deeper than the pans found on LS motors destined for cars...
And this one will not involve my pulling the body panels off, just the prerequisite cleaning and weather proofing, n' patchin'/fixin' up
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How’s the missus? Motor going back in this weekend?
Not sure if you’ve seen this Don, but thought you (and the others here) might like this.
https://www.automedals.com
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Now why did you do that!??
You knew I wouldn't be able to resist!
Has my master aviator wings, and 101st but not 1st SOCOM or USASOC
Kat is still undiagnosed! Problem still present, but not as acute. She sits at a desk at work, but little else. Comes home and lies down until time to leave again. Appointment on the 6th.
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My wife went through an episode similar to that.
Lots and lots of cat scans,theysuspected MS but ultimately settled on guillain-barre syndrome.
Means she can’t take a flu shot and a few other things but only time made it better.
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Not to muck up Don's thread again! But small world we went thru same thing with my wife in 2000 ended up at Cleveland Clinic and she has guillain-barre syndrome also, she still has some problems today. Good Luck Don, your family's in our prayers.
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Thank You gentlemen
I'll research the G-B syndrome and suggest it to her Dr.
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So, have a decision to make
Justin says that if I use the stock injectors, which was the plan, along with the stock intake, I'll be limited to around 5800 RPM based on all the extra breathing ability and power this motor will produce. He recommended 8.1L injectors if I plan to stan normally aspirated, and something much bigger if I plan to pressurize the motor
Which brings me to my decision point. Those stock 8.1 Chevy injectors cost around $35-$40 ea. So I'll have to dish out $320 or thereabouts to get them, or for about the same amount I can pickup a used TBSS intake manifold setup with it's 36 pph injectors.
If I do that, then I'd also have to buy a 90mm TB, a Corvette fuel filter, do a bit of welding and some modification to get that piece to fit. On the good side I'd be up 25 HP, and on the down side, lose some lower RPM torque and have to buy more stuff.
So what's a builder to do??
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I like the bigger injector idea and that was my plan too even though I have a 5.3.
I went to an flatter LS intake (clearance) with better injectors for the 5.7 vs the 5.3. So I now have a set of new takeoff 8.1 truck injectors I don't need.
So just a TB is the issue.
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My recommendation would be to stay where your at right now.....
get the motor back in, take your trip......
In the mean time get a short block and build what you want and swap once complete?
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I think we would gain more knowledge out of seeing what you have currently build setup will do. You have a great shakedown trip that would be a good testing ground. Build a second motor install later
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Have to agree, time is an issue and still bumpers and tweeking to do. Almost 6k and 25hp won't hurt a thing.
Button it up, take care of the wifey,,,,,,,,,
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If I read correctly JR has some 8.1 injectors?
I’d kinda lean towards bigger sticks. I like the idea of shorter pulse width in the programming with the bigger cam and higher compression
Should help you get the most out of the motor and tuning
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Yea, when I think about it more, staying with the stock manifold will help me sort the engine as it is now, but there is a definite need for more injector. 5800 RPM ceiling is an issue, like throwing away good food, I give up horsepower I may need for passing. And another facet of the little/old injector is, what if one is underperforming due to age?? Might I run a cylinder lean? Damage it?
So it seems to make the most sense to pickup larger injectors. Stock LQ4 is 25pph. A stock 5.3 is a tad more, but a flex fuel 5.3 is 36pph, a 50% improvement. The stock 8.1 injectors are down in the upper 20's again, so i'm ruling them out. What i'm thinking is a set of 42pph which will work fine, give me all the power this tune can deliver and work in a 408" or a supercharged motor.
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I doubt that you would ever use all the power that it's going to make in it's current form. You going to pass someone at 6000 revvums? Probably not. If your power range is 2-4k then you're just pissing away money.
I'd tune it the way it is, upgrade as you see the need. Injectors are easy to swap.
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I doubt that you would ever use all the power that it's going to make in it's current form. You going to pass someone at 6000 revvums? Probably not. If you're power range is 2-4k then you're just pissing away money.
I'd tune it the way it is, upgrade as you see the need. Injectors are easy to swap.
Smart. I like his thinking and didn't Ken's advice end up being a good idea when you finally pulled the motor?
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Keep it as close to stock as you can. Put together what you have and get that sorted/put miles on it before you leave on your trip
I know its hard to stop the urge of I need more power, but being able to pull into any NAPA and get parts is a huge plus especially when your on a trip trying to see/do things and not under the hood asking your self why you added that in the first place.
I always had to stop myself when I building the RC and not go the "I'm stranded until I get parts" route.
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I hear you all, but I am going to replace the injectors.
Probably just go to the 5.3 LM7 flex-fuel motor injectors. I found some on Ebay for $100 a set rebuilt. That should be a good compromise and will fit in nicely while I am getting the Black Bear tune service.
That is no extra time, not a big change, and gets me renewed parts (Read: one more thing that might not go wrong)
Painting the bay today, going back together!
Oh and buying the tires!
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Don be very careful of buying "rebuilt" injectors I have had more problems with those (gas version) long term than I care to count, not saying they are bad but just be aware! Remember middle of nowhere is not a good place to find out you have an issue.
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True^^
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Places like Oreillys sell them all day long. But they are 3X more expensive at the "O"
So I think you guys are warning me away from the Ebay rebuilt units. New GM's are around $50 ea. Not totally unreasonable, but still quite a bit. So I'm wondering where can be found a good quality fairly priced 36-42 pph injector that will fit without a bunch of adapters and snake oil.
The argument for an injector going bad in the middle of nowhere could just as easily apply to my stockers...
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Having a difficult time sourcing those pesky little steam pipe gaskets...Need 4 ea.
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Having a difficult time sourcing those pesky little steam pipe gaskets...Need 4 ea.
I have heard that too.
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I thought someone mentioned those pesky gaskets a few pages back.
Here's a part number most parts stores should have: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-56390-Coolant-Bypass/dp/B000QV2D8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1548723337&sr=8-1&keywords=Dorman+Help%21+56390+Coolant+Bypass+Seal
You sayin 50 bucks for a new injector is expensive? I would trust your old 100k mile injectors more than rebuilds, especially rebuilds from the "Web experts". just sayin
Edit: the actual part # is MTM 56390
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I second the 100K units, I have been really burnt by the overhauled crap.
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Found some brand new Denso flex-fuel injectors...spendy, like $440 a set
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Oh, and thanks for the Droman steam pipe part numba
A set of four cost $6.95, on the way
Almost done cleaning and reconditioning pieces parts. Taking a gamble on the starter. May be original, but was working fine, so a good cleaning, some paint and I'll bolt it back on.
Was thinking of doing something cool with the plastic cover to tie the new color scheme altogether.
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And this guy showed up. Mych beefier, and that was the reason I purchased it, but also will stall a couple hundred RPM higher. It is advertised to stall at 1800-2000 depending on engine torque. Darned thing is really heavy!
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Before/After
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So most of the detail painting and coating is complete. Enough to reinstall the engine and start putting all these parts back in one spot
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Oh, and while I have the trans pan off to clean the inside/inspect/replace the filter and fluid, I'll throw in a Trans-Go kit which corrects the known deficiencies of the 4L80E. It also raises line pressure to hold more torque, and quickens the shift somewhat making for less clutch slippage.
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And, finally, sourced four of these to help seal up the higher pressure water steam pipe holes
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Inbound on the tires. Be here Wednesday
Dick Cepek Extreme mud country 315/70 R17, 5 ea.
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Oh, and thanks for the Droman steam pipe part numba
A set of four cost $6.95, on the way
Almost done cleaning and reconditioning pieces parts. Taking a gamble on the starter. May be original, but was working fine, so a good cleaning, some paint and I'll bolt it back on.
Was thinking of doing something cool with the plastic cover to tie the new color scheme altogether.
Starter....
Do you not have an auto electric rebuild shop close by you can have that starter gone thru? Napa can send them out and have them done too but most often there is a little family owned specialty shop that could freshen that unit up for you....
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Don, Bear electrical on Walton Nicholson. I think they do starters, never used them but at least it’s local.
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Did we figure out if your T case has the same stupid pump rub issue as duramax?
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Don't think the 2002 non Allison has that issue.
Looks like it is a NP246 on the 4L80E.
I need that trans kit for my suburban.
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And for the DOT of the day...
I think Don should sign up as a new host for Powernation. :popcorn:
https://www.powernationtv.com/auditions
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Did we figure out if your T case has the same stupid pump rub issue as duramax?
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No, Dave sure haven't
Based on what you guys have all been saying I thought it was a foregone conclusion my case is affected. Anyway, I planned to buy the kit and install to repair (If its bad) or prevent a problem
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Don't think the 2002 non Allison has that issue.
Looks like it is a NP246 on the 4L80E.
I need that trans kit for my suburban.
]That's good news! So what's the consensus?? No fixy? Or tear it apart and start flirtin with oil change prospects??
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Pretty sure the NP246 is half ton JR...?...
edit: So I guess they had 246s auto 4wd in 3/4 ton as well, but also the 263s (like dmax) and 261 manual shifters. Don, best to read the tag on the rear of the case to give us something to go on.
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Pretty sure the NP246 is half ton JR...?...
edit: So I guess they had 246s auto 4wd in 3/4 ton as well, but also the 263s (like dmax) and 261 manual shifters. Don, best to read the tag on the rear of the case to give us something to go on.
I think I saw NP246 on the build codes...Let me check
Edit: Build Code NP8: Push button transfer case. Doesn't say which one
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Gunna have to crawl under there!!
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Gunna have to crawl under there!!
Not as cold as it is out there right now!
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Gunna have to crawl under there!!
Not as cold as it is out there right now!
Thought your garage was now heated?.....stickpoke
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Pretty sure the NP246 is half ton JR...?...
edit: So I guess they had 246s auto 4wd in 3/4 ton as well, but also the 263s (like dmax) and 261 manual shifters. Don, best to read the tag on the rear of the case to give us something to go on.
I think I saw NP246 on the build codes...Let me check
Edit: Build Code NP8: Push button transfer case. Doesn't say which one
NP246 T-CASE '99-'02 GM E-SHFT, W/4L80E
Sam's build is spot on but here's a professional magazine write up. Granted it's on the 263 but is not much different from the 246. From my information, ALL magnesium rear case halves prior to '06 are affected.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1210-8l-gm-transfer-case-pump-rub-repair/
YEAR
TRUCK
WEIGHT
MODEL NUMBER
1998-2007
SILVERADO / SIERRA
1500, 1500HD, 2500, 2500HD, 3500
NP246, NP261HD, NP263HD, NP261XHD, NP263XHD
1998-2003
BLAZER/JIMMY
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NP236
1999-2005
ASTRO/SAFARI
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NP136
1999-2007
ESCALADE
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NP246, NP149
2002-2007
AVALANCHE
1500, 2500
NP246, NP261, NP263, NP263HD
1998-2007
SUBURBAN/YUKON XL
TAHOE/YUKON
1500, 2500
NP246
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Gunna have to crawl under there!!
Not as cold as it is out there right now!
Thought your garage was now heated?.....stickpoke
It is if I turn that thing on
But
I think I am at the thermal capacity of the boiler, so if I add heat out there, I'm gonna be taking it away from somewhere else. The boiler is ranging from 128-144F so its kickin' out the B's, T's and U's. But that cold wind is doin' a subtraction problem on my windward walls!
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Pretty sure the NP246 is half ton JR...?...
edit: So I guess they had 246s auto 4wd in 3/4 ton as well, but also the 263s (like dmax) and 261 manual shifters. Don, best to read the tag on the rear of the case to give us something to go on.
I think I saw NP246 on the build codes...Let me check
Edit: Build Code NP8: Push button transfer case. Doesn't say which one
NP246 T-CASE '99-'02 GM E-SHFT, W/4L80E
Sam's build is spot on but here's a professional magazine write up. Granted it's on the 263 but is not much different from the 246. From my information, ALL magnesium rear case halves prior to '06 are affected.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1210-8l-gm-transfer-case-pump-rub-repair/
YEAR
TRUCK
WEIGHT
MODEL NUMBER
1998-2007
SILVERADO / SIERRA
1500, 1500HD, 2500, 2500HD, 3500
NP246, NP261HD, NP263HD, NP261XHD, NP263XHD
1998-2003
BLAZER/JIMMY
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NP236
1999-2005
ASTRO/SAFARI
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NP136
1999-2007
ESCALADE
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NP246, NP149
2002-2007
AVALANCHE
1500, 2500
NP246, NP261, NP263, NP263HD
1998-2007
SUBURBAN/YUKON XL
TAHOE/YUKON
1500, 2500
NP246
Tate, why wouldn't I just do the fix on mine? Are you saying I should just go ahead and replace my transfer now?
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I think he's sayin yours is one that's still affected by that issue, and if you do fix it here's a link to someone that has a great right-up...?..
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Ding ding ding! get the pump rub kit and do it while you have everything out. you ARE affected by it. if you have any fluid on the outside of the case you probably already have a leak, and it will be evident by the output shaft seal being dry but still have fluid on the case behind it.
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Ding ding ding! get the pump rub kit and do it while you have everything out. you ARE affected by it. if you have any fluid on the outside of the case you probably already have a leak, and it will be evident by the output shaft seal being dry but still have fluid on the case behind it.
I never noticed any fluid on the case at all. Some crusty grease substance before pressure washing, but nothing else. I'll do the fix anyway
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2 notes on doing the pump rub don...
1. If i remember correctly. the bolts holding the xcase to the trans i believe are 15mm, and you will need a short stubby wrench for the very top bolt (if you have pulled it all then nevermind.)
2. The split ring is a pain in the butt..(both tear down and re-assembly). because they do not give you a lot of room to work with, and the split ring sits in a little groove. Also there is no hole in the split ring to get a hold of it with the pliers.
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2 notes on doing the pump rub don...
1. If i remember correctly. the bolts holding the xcase to the trans i believe are 15mm, and you will need a short stubby wrench for the very top bolt (if you have pulled it all then nevermind.)
2. The split ring is a pain in the butt..(both tear down and re-assembly). because they do not give you a lot of room to work with, and the split ring sits in a little groove. Also there is no hole in the split ring to get a hold of it with the pliers.
You aren't makin' me happy bro!
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Got the tires in
I like them!
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I decided to use sheet metal screws and screw the tires directly to the rotors to save weight!
Should work.
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Good looking tires.
My Generals are in as well, just haven't had time to go get them.
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Cool, with that you have a type of bead lock! Now just fill em with foam and go.
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I decided to use sheet metal screws and screw the tires directly to the rotors to save weight!
Should work.
Concerned about making a fat girl fatter, definitely not a sq d build thread! :likebutton:
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2 notes on doing the pump rub don...
1. If i remember correctly. the bolts holding the xcase to the trans i believe are 15mm, and you will need a short stubby wrench for the very top bolt (if you have pulled it all then nevermind.)
2. The split ring is a pain in the butt..(both tear down and re-assembly). because they do not give you a lot of room to work with, and the split ring sits in a little groove. Also there is no hole in the split ring to get a hold of it with the pliers.
You aren't makin' me happy bro!
I know, but i would rather somebody told me that when i did mine on my old lbz on a lift with trans jacks and big tables to work on
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Here is a video on how to do it......i wish i would have had this when i did mine. The lifting/prying up of the gear was something i did not know of.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y7im00Wm3sQ
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Here is a video on how to do it......i wish i would have had this when i did mine. The lifting/prying up of the gear was something i did not know of.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y7im00Wm3sQ
Just watched it...Simple enough...
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That looks so easy. Getting it out is the issue.
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I think I did a DIY on it.
The split ring there are ‘fancy’ pliers. Read flat wide tips with traction on them.
They’re cheap enough but do help with the pesky ring.
DONT FORGET THE ABS SENSOR!
I got away with it...but was heading for a bigger than bfh and noticed it.
It is dirt simple, other than the pesky top bolt as mentioned.
Just do it and be done. Easy now while you’re in this far.
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I think I did a DIY on it.
The split ring there are ‘fancy’ pliers. Read flat wide tips with traction on them.
They’re cheap enough but do help with the pesky ring.
DONT FORGET THE ABS SENSOR!
I got away with it...but was heading for a bigger than bfh and noticed it.
It is dirt simple, other than the pesky top bolt as mentioned.
Just do it and be done. Easy now while you’re in this far.
Copy...Ordering parts...
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Wish Merchant had that video when I did mine -- that screwdriver on the gear trick would have helped a lot. That snapring is a pain. I overstretched mine a little bit, but was able to massage it back to normal.
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Wish Merchant had that video when I did mine -- that screwdriver on the gear trick would have helped a lot. That snapring is a pain. I overstretched mine a little bit, but was able to massage it back to normal.
:likebutton:
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Prepped the wheels to receive the tires. At first I painted the back with the massey Ferguson gray paint, but on subsequent wheels, I did not. On those I will just coat the back with clear when i coat the fronts
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I wanted to do something slightly different to the wheel to be a tad bit different, so I test sprayed the center of one wheel with a few coats of metallic graphite color enamel
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So, I liked that well enough. It picks up on the metallic of the stock paint which I will keep on this truck, yet still gets me a bit of retro look. Good enough, on to bigger things.
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Can we see a tape line picture
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Like it Don. Young at heart.
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Wheels look good chief!
Tires as well. But they’re a lot of tire. Hope they fit for you.
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Wheels look good chief!
Tires as well. But they’re a lot of tire. Hope they fit for you.
Three things
1. Lift
2. custom bumpers
3. knife
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Can we see a tape line picture
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Perfectionist!
;-)
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Picture or not? Lol I have the same wheels if they look good I would love to stop looking at that crap corrosion I have going now
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Engine?
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Engine?
Be getting right on it. Cold spell, no workey. Warming up now. Try to stick it in the bay tomorrow.
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Don, remind me the size, width and offset on the wheels?
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Don, remind me the size, width and offset on the wheels?
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17X9 4.75B.S.
Offset -6
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Don how are those Bfg KM2’s holding up on C-max?
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Don how are those Bfg KM2’s holding up on C-max?
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Not bad Dave. I don't recall the mileage on the truck when i installed them, wasn't in the 80's somewhere. I now have over 100K on C-Max and they are easily at 1/2 tread.
I will not put another set on it though. I towed heavy once and I was worried with the D load range. My next set are going to be Kanata's that have a tread identical to Goodyear duratracs. (Pirated??)
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I think I am going to a more narrow tire of what I currently have. Need to order this week
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Dave, you wanted to look at the tape line, well here it is. And there are problems. On a couple of the wheels, the tape did not pull away cleanly, and pulled a ragged line in an otherwise flawless paint job...!!!
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I guess I'll have to redo those!
The five bags of balance beads show up tomorrow, but no mounting the tires until I sort this little SNAFU out
So, the Dorman steam pipe gaskets came in and were installed:
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And I removed the stock converter and threw in the new higher stall unit. Both were 13 In in size although the Monster transmission part has a higher stall
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With that done, it was time to do some heavy lifting
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After some wrestling, and at a perfect time. Just as my wrestlers got off the bus I put them to work wrestling six liters of Chevy performance back into place
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Looks good in there!
And came up with a "slick" tip.
When installing bolts back into areas not that heat affected, stick the threads into some nozzle-coat that you have for your mig welder. Afterward they seem to glide right in and the heavy waxy paste will ward off water and corrosion (I think)
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The engine almost fell into place, mating up with the transmission quite easily. I got some bolts into the bellhousing and the motor mounts re-bolted, but for some reason had these waves of nausea that came over me, so I had to throw in the towel and call it a night. I was thinking of the president, visualizing him in the house chamber in my mind's eye. As my eye drifted, it fell on the speaker and I got sick!
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Oh and tomorrow, I go to look at a super cool rear differential. I have just located a hybrid that a company called Garda used to upgrade the 2500, 8.1L Suburbans that were sent to Iraq. THis hybrid features a Dana 80 center section with 14 bolt axle tubes and hubs. I think they have some massive sized axles and on the brake rotors, this axle has two calipers per side! How cool is that?
I think it is a 4.56 which will solve my dilemma of screwing up the factory gearing with the 34.5" tires.
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Guess I shouldn't ask, did you replace the seals?
Dana 80, seen those on some 80s cummins.
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that 80 should be more than enough center section to hold anythingf you’d put it in front of. they were used in the later model 2nd gen cummins as well as some 7.3/early 6.0 f350 duallies if i’m not mistaken. they have a squished up dana 60 diff cover. like it was put in a vice and mashed hard. hahah
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We had one in the rear of a f350 dialysis with 7.3 circa 2000ish
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We had one in the rear of a f350 dialysis with 7.3 circa 2000ish
dialysis.. i hope was alright!!
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Guess I shouldn't ask, did you replace the seals?
Dana 80, seen those on some 80s cummins.
Seals? Transmission input?
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Since you had it out and pulled the converter. Looked like it wasn't leaking should be OK.
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We had one in the rear of a f350 dialysis with 7.3 circa 2000ish
dialysis.. i hope was alright!!
Yeah, how autocorrect changes dually to dialysis is beyond me...
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OK, so I purchased the rear axle. This is a hybrid built by Garda Corporation for the up-armored Suburbans that were used overseas and by the secret service and some others.
It is a Dana 80 with 14 bolt 4" axle tubes and 35 spline axles. It is set up to bolt directly into a suburban like mine!
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But it's rusty Boss! We want shiny parts!
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It was never installed or has ever turned over by engine power, it simply has never been used.
It is really a heavy duty unit. It has 4.88 gears held in by billet caps. The axles are aftermarket 35 spline forged units held on with 12 point bolts. The rotors are slotted, and obviously heavily rusted, but turnable, I think. It has an odd brake caliper mount that can mount twin calipers on each rotor. Looking at the brake line, the hose was simply "T'd" into each caliper.
Tate is already involved. He will supply a Yukon Gear limited slip from Randy's worldwide and some other stuff. The gentleman, Tommy, who sold it to me will set up the diff and turn it loose to me for reconditioning from that point on
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But it's rusty Boss! We want shiny parts!
It will get that way, my friend!
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The aftermarket axle
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Slotted brakes and stock chebby caliper. There was two on here, but Tommy removed one from each side already
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Beef!
11.25" ring gear, 12 bolts, like really big bolts, take a look:
Forged bearing caps
Edit: Shawn thinks the caps may not be forged. Looking at them now, I would agree. No parting line from forging...
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They sat outside for some time at Garda awaiting a vehicle. That never happened for this guy, so he got a bit more of the H2O and sunshine than the others. Tommy has had it in his shop for most of the time.
Tommy builds all sorts of cool stuff n that shop. Here is a dana 80 front steering axle:
I believe he said it is destined for their logging truck which is already 4WD
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that looks pretty slick, I could of swore that most of the uparmor conversions I saw had Sterlings in them but maybe that was the Fords
Nice score either way! What gears are in it?
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Caps don’t look forged, there appears to be gas cut marks running across them. My 2 cents....
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that looks pretty slick, I could of swore that most of the uparmor conversions I saw had Sterlings in them but maybe that was the Fords
Nice score either way! What gears are in it?
4.88
And that raises a point of discussion.
I had planned to swap up to 4.56 because of the 315-70R17 tire which is 34.4" tall. But the 4.88's only raise the cruise RPM at 70 mph a bit over 200 RPM. So that brings me to a decision point. Again, thinking this was a 4.56 before looking at it, I had planned to purchase the 4.56 gears for the front from JR and go that route. Now I am trying to decide the best way to go here...
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Caps don’t look forged, there appears to be gas cut marks running across them. My 2 cents....
OK.
I thought I heard Tommy say they were forged
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Caps don’t look forged, there appears to be gas cut marks running across them. My 2 cents....
OK.
I thought I heard Tommy say they were forged
Doesn’t mean they are any less strong, depends on whet they were cut & machines from. They do look beefy.....
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Those could be grinding marks, but I'm no expert.
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So we should discuss gear ratio and also run a single caliper or two on each side with the "T" which would essentially split the pressure, but double the swept area. Now why would they do that in the first place???
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Those could be grinding marks, but I'm no expert.
To me, they look just like gas torch cut marks. Doesn't matter really, heck there is a gasser pushing the thing. Couldn't make enough torque to hurt it if it tried!
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And I have another decision to make.
So I decided on how I was going to lift it. I'll start with a BDS front lift because it tucks the torsion bars way up in the stock location. No "wait-ah-minute" crap hanging down like a naval fighter tail hook.
The front lift is a very mild 7".
(Thought you'd approve!) :rolleyes:
But they supply a 5" block for the rear.
I don't like tall blocks, so I gave Deaver Spring a call. Their first response was to say they didn't want to tackle this one since the Suburban spring is 4" shorter than the 1500HD/2500 truck. OK, no worries, I contacted Atlas Spring. I got no response from them at all.
I don't like it when people don't bother to return calls or respond
Then I got to thinking...I own a brand new set of Silverado non-HD rear 64" springs...hmmm
And I own a brand new, never used shackle flip kit
And I own a front spring mount I had picked up for SquareD
So, I could throw in that 64" silverado rear spring and set it to the height I need...
More work (Which scares me) but that could fix my problems for like no cost!...
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Maybe I am missing it, but I just see a dual caliper. You say the line is T'd to each piston? Don't see that as an issue, does it have the standard emergency brake?
A 7 inch lift? Now you need 37s! I sure liked my Contito NTBD lift, just sold it.
Another fluid change, and paint it green :facepalm:
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Maybe I am missing it, but I just see a dual caliper. You say the line is T'd to each piston? Don't see that as an issue, does it have the standard emergency brake?
A 7 inch lift? Now you need 37s! I sure liked my Contito NTBD lift, just sold it.
Another fluid change, and paint it green :facepalm:
There is only one stock caliper per wheel, but on the other side is provision for a second one. One line comes in, then "T's" to then go to each caliper of the same rotor. Make sense?
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...And
You have no idea how hard I am trying not to turn this into an oil change. No green paint. I have to get on the road in May for a month of drive time to visit my boy in Seattle and visit with many of youses.
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Chief, do you guys have an actual leave date? Our crew cab has a date in Idaho on May 24.
As far as lift, gears, axle.... keep everything as simple as possible to reduce the work. Use it for the trip, make notes on the way of what needs to be fixed or upgraded. Didn’t you already buy tires....lift begat bigger tires, begat potential re-gear of both axles vs just one. But I am fighting all of this with the crew cab, we’ll sort of, different items but still a never ending choose this change that, type of thing it seems. Just my 1/2 cent....
How is your wife?
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May is going to be here not long from now, just saying.
I'll be in Idaho probably mid May, but no date set.... whenever my brother in law tells me the road is semi dry going into the property.
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T-
Would love to meet up.
So they get out of school somewhere between the 17th and the 24th. Its a sliding window that is adjusted for missed snow days. By the time it warms up it will be locked, but not yet.
I'm moving on the gears, and axle. With the taller tires it really needs regearing and might as well launch with something cool underneath.
But I agree, keep the mods to a minimum to fit the go date.
Kat was seen by a specialist, and guess what??? He said that the cardiologist read the catscan and another report wrong. He sees clear linkage with some out of wack numbers and this fescula structure and some shunt that I haven't heard about before. He is digging in and said he feels he can find the solution. He is eliminating the life threatening stuff at the moment. Prayer works, so far she has something, but is may not be the widow maker sort of thing...
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May is going to be here not long from now, just saying.
I'll be in Idaho probably mid May, but no date set.... whenever my brother in law tells me the road is semi dry going into the property.
Ya, I know...I feel the pressure...Its buildin'...
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Next up bullet proof glass ( we have a company in Ogden that mods these for that) turret on top and a tactopper mod right?
Thanks for the update on the boss lady. Glad to hear she has someone in the medical side who is interested and not just dismissing things like so many do.
As you road map out this trip with dates and so forth, do you have some things you want to see or do specifically as you go to each state? Lots of these states surrounding me have more national parks than the rest of the country and a whole lot of neat things to see!!
Thoughts? Do we need a Dons Road Trip build thread.
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Like Dave said, I’m glad to see there is someone who cares checking into things for her. May you God give you guys peace while He works through the hands of the doctors to find her solution.
I guess gears are farmed out so that’s one less thing you’ll have to do.
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Dave needs fired again, he mentioned the unmentionable (TT.....)!!! :knucklehead:
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edit
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DON HAVE YOU TRIED BRIGHTON SPRING IN WALTON?
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Lol
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Good news Don. Thanks for the update.
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Thanks for the update Don. Keeping her in our prayers.
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edit
Is that your window licking face?
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I don’t lick windows. Well maybe sometimes. You never know with young people
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Next up bullet proof glass ( we have a company in Ogden that mods these for that) turret on top and a tactopper mod right?
Thanks for the update on the boss lady. Glad to hear she has someone in the medical side who is interested and not just dismissing things like so many do.
As you road map out this trip with dates and so forth, do you have some things you want to see or do specifically as you go to each state? Lots of these states surrounding me have more national parks than the rest of the country and a whole lot of neat things to see!!
Thoughts? Do we need a Dons Road Trip build thread.
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Actually a big objective of this trip is to meet a bunch of youses.
So as I get closer, I'll publish the route. Yes, we will stop and see something interesting every day. The worlds biggest ball of string, Cadillac ranch, Norm and other curiosities. Mostly I would like to grab a shot of the burb parked beside youses rides and get some smilin' grill shots whilst toastin' some quoffee.
Not sure if I visitin' any Daves' yet...Thinkin' on that one ;-))
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edit
Sunglasses: Core, right?
That boy doesn't look any better upside down than he does upright! Can I get an A-men? :tongue: :beercheers:
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DON HAVE YOU TRIED BRIGHTON SPRING IN WALTON?
Have not Larry, but I will. Just got a quote from Scott at Deaver Springs for $900 and 6 weeks out. I responded, "Respectfully that price is ridiculous. I do however recognize that the laws regulations and taxes from that crazy state represent the bulk of the price. I would suggest you consider moving out of that place to somewhere where you can flourish."
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So another busy day.
Ordered the BDS suspension, Cognito UCA's, JR's 8.1L injectors, 4.88 gears for the front and a Dura-Grip LS diff for the D80 from Tate. That all put a nice dent in the bank account!
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You can't tell but the transmission is now bolted to the engine block once again
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Torque converter reattached, bottom cover installed, starter bolted up, connections below reattached
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Starting to reattach the front accessories
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At this point it is just a grind. You just keep pecking away at it and at some point it will be largely assembled, I hope.
However in true Oil-Change spirit, I will have to drop the front diff to install the 4.88's and while I have it out of there, might as well bolt up the lift kit crossmembers. Since I'm getting into that, might as well strip all the suspension off each side up front...And so it goes as this caterpillar is spinnin' a cocoon hopefully to reappear in time to drive it a bit before launching...
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I have new timken bearing units sitting here to. Probably a little $$ to send though.
Doing the tierod sleeve's and ptiman too? Good time while its right there.
Does the transfer case hang down like ours do? I would address that, I need to but waiting to pull the tcase.
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I have new timken bearing units sitting here to. Probably a little $$ to send though.
Doing the tierod sleeve's and ptiman too? Good time while its right there.
Does the transfer case hang down like ours do? I would address that, I need to but waiting to pull the tcase.
JR...Timken bearings?? Wheel unit bearings? I was just going to order a set of Moog bearings. PM me a price bro...
Not a tie rod sleeve, but an entire HD tie rod. Pitman arm too
Transfer case/trans configuration looks about like what I have on the D-Max truck. And I'll be pulling that too along the way...
Another thought. So the rear axle is going to now sit 5" lower than it does now. I have a new 1 1/2 ton truck driveshaft sitting here. Thinking about making a new driveshaft for the burb out of it but with a double cardan in the front. Reason is the lift/angle and the shorter wheelbase of the Burb over the trucks...
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DON HAVE YOU TRIED BRIGHTON SPRING IN WALTON?
Have not Larry, but I will. Just got a quote from Scott at Deaver Springs for $900 and 6 weeks out. I responded, "Respectfully that price is ridiculous. I do however recognize that the laws regulations and taxes from that crazy state represent the bulk of the price. I would suggest you consider moving out of that place to somewhere where you can flourish."
Larry, So, to follow up. Brighton Spring does not bend nor make new springs, They only add or replace individual leaves.
Nice try! ;-)
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Is your wheel base really shorter than a 3/4 crew shirt bed truck?
Do you have the two piece drive shaft now?
The timkin bearing are pretty nice.
Are all of these HD truck parts cross directly over to your suburban?
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Is your wheel base really shorter than a 3/4 crew shirt bed truck?
I think the Burb is about the length of a single cab short box maybe a single cab long box
Do you have the two piece drive shaft now?
No, one piece
The timkin bearing are pretty nice.
Not liking the Moog hugh... Well, the Timkens are about the best name out there
Are all of these HD truck parts cross directly over to your suburban?
No, Burb is a bit of a hybrid. Truck leaves are 64", Burb are 60". Drive shafts are different length. Burb 2500 is like a 2500 light duty, not a HD. Witness the 14 bolt semi floater in lieu of a FF axle.
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ON RICHARDS NEW SERVICE TRUCK THEY ADDED SPRINGS TO LEVEL THE ONE SIDE OF THE TRUCK, HIS TOOLS WEIGHED SO MUCH THAT THE TRUCK HAD A 4" LEAN, ALL LEVEL NOW, I JUST THOUGHT EXTRA SPRINGS WOULD BE BETTER THAN BLOCKS. SORRY
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Google shows 130 for your Burban and 143-157 ish pending bed and cab configuration
Are you going to put the HD tire rods to match your upper control arms?
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Here we go this is what ya need Don
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190208/4975c325a001f8a671d8be36adb386d7.jpg)
Vegas rat rod (welderup)
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Stock bearings(if goodintite)=better than new timkens/moog off the shelf.
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Google shows 130 for your Burban and 143-157 ish pending bed and cab configuration
Are you going to put the HD tire rods to match your upper control arms?
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Yes. Have a suggestion as to which brand/item?
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Stock bearings(if goodintite)=better than new timkens/moog off the shelf.
But, man, hard not to renew. I'd be trusting those things for a way long trip where I could scarcely work on the truck. Have to find a shop like yours...!
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Stock bearings(if goodintite)=better than new timkens/moog off the shelf.
But, man, hard not to renew. I'd be trusting those things for a way long trip where I could scarcely work on the truck. Have to find a shop like yours...!
Technically I think most of us guys along your route have tools to swap them out....
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I have a pipe wrench and "maybe" two!! I also have a monkey wrench also :grin:
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I got two thumbs
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I saw that welderup build. Super sweet. 4 turbos.
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I saw that welderup build. Super sweet. 4 turbos.
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Don’t give the big guy any more ideas guys.
He’s on a tight timeline for this ever growing “oil change”.
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Doubt don could find the 2 stroke detroit in time for the build....
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I have a pipe wrench and "maybe" two!! I also have a monkey wrench also :grin:
I'm sure you have a host of interesting tools!
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I saw that welderup build. Super sweet. 4 turbos.
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Don’t give the big guy any more ideas guys.
He’s on a tight timeline for this ever growing “oil change”.
Am I ever!
Which causes me to press the "Place Order" button about every night.
Just ordered those super steer tie rod/baseball bat things. Scored a big truck driveshaft to have modded to play with the Dana 80.
Tate sent me all the gears n' things to make the front and the back play with each other and the backside get some traction, that's all sitting here now.
Have tracking on the other suspension stuff, and Deaver just wrote me back, so I'm not sure if perhaps they may be back in play. Will order the new larger front sway bar tomorrow, just so as I tear something off, something is sitting there to throw, Sorry, Norm, meant to say, Toss back on.
I'm farming some stuff out and taking more of the role of a project manager. My goal at the moment is get to the point I can drive it to start sorting and then move on to bumper building.
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Chief, where did you source your big truck drive shaft? I’d like to do a single piece shaft instead of the two piece carrier bearing I have.
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My goal at the moment is get to the point I can drive it to start sorting and then move on to bumper building.
It was able to be driven after you finished the motor. Everything that's been bought and planned on buying, planned on upgrading or adding has only pushed your timeline further off where you originally wanted it. It's been mentioned before run it how it is for your trip, have fun and enjoy yourself, and when you come back you'll have a better idea of where you want to upgrade/change. I doubt anyone you stop and visit will deny you and the youngins a cup of coffee and some company if the Burb isn't lifted with a LSD, offroad tires and a 1 piece driveshaft new injectors.... you get my point.
Remember just keep it simple until you see what NEEDS to be done vs what you WANT to be done. Once you got that done then you can go hogwild.
EDIT: How have I become a voice of reason?
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Chief, where did you source your big truck drive shaft? I’d like to do a single piece shaft instead of the two piece carrier bearing I have.
Cincy Driveline stocks cores for various builds
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Preach it Bobby!!
The way it is, it's going to be one heck of a shake down trip. The more a guy touches, the better the odds of........success?...no, not really.
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My goal at the moment is get to the point I can drive it to start sorting and then move on to bumper building.
It was able to be driven after you finished the motor. Everything that's been bought and planned on buying, planned on upgrading or adding has only pushed your timeline further off where you originally wanted it. It's been mentioned before run it how it is for your trip, have fun and enjoy yourself, and when you come back you'll have a better idea of where you want to upgrade/change. I doubt anyone you stop and visit will deny you and the youngins a cup of coffee and some company if the Burb isn't lifted with a LSD, offroad tires and a 1 piece driveshaft new injectors.... you get my point.
Remember just keep it simple until you see what NEEDS to be done vs what you WANT to be done. Once you got that done then you can go hogwild.
EDIT: How have I become a voice of reason?
It wasn't ready as it was.
Springs have settled enough to allow it to ride on and flatten the rubber bumpers. The engine had like no power, not like I'm used to. Suspension not driveline would support where I plan on taking it. And it has spent the majority of its life parked. It needs all those rubber parts gone through, new shocks, and who knows what. The body and interior is great, but while I'm doing all that routine stuff, it makes good sense to go a step or two further and get it done to a good point where it's very capable and a cool fun vehicle to sport around in.
It will work out, you'll see.
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It wasn't ready as it was.
Springs have settled enough to allow it to ride on and flatten the rubber bumpers. The engine had like no power, not like I'm used to. Suspension not driveline would support where I plan on taking it. And it has spent the majority of its life parked. It needs all those rubber parts gone through, new shocks, and who knows what. The body and interior is great, but while I'm doing all that routine stuff, it makes good sense to go a step or two further and get it done to a good point where it's very capable and a cool fun vehicle to sport around in.
It will work out, you'll see.
Here's what I see:
Replace the springs, yes heavier duty for the upcoming bumpers and etc.
The engine probably had the power, but you've been driving a 6.6 Duramax as a daily so naturally there's a difference in the power you'll feel. I get it as a guy I want immediate power when I hit the go pedal, but you'll adapt to the difference.
Stock shocks aren't expensive, minor upgrades for the suspension and bushing and etc also aren't going to hit your account as hard.
Remember work begets work, well work begets work beget you getting burnt out on a project and having to take a break from said project and the timeline slipping further. I'm not telling you how to spend your own time and money, merely suggesting that you not attempt to get it all done of what you think you want done whereas stuff you should do and get done, are completed knocked off the list and you have a reliable driver for your trip, without going overboard and causing headaches.
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Chief, where did you source your big truck drive shaft? I’d like to do a single piece shaft instead of the two piece carrier bearing I have.
Cincy Driveline stocks cores for various builds
I was hoping you were going to say some kind of junk yard I might be able to find of similar flavor out here. The driveline shop I went to in Tucson can build anything a person wants, but of course that’s more expensive than modifying one that would work. He rebuilt the one that’s in the truck now, great shop.
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It wasn't ready as it was.
Springs have settled enough to allow it to ride on and flatten the rubber bumpers. The engine had like no power, not like I'm used to. Suspension not driveline would support where I plan on taking it. And it has spent the majority of its life parked. It needs all those rubber parts gone through, new shocks, and who knows what. The body and interior is great, but while I'm doing all that routine stuff, it makes good sense to go a step or two further and get it done to a good point where it's very capable and a cool fun vehicle to sport around in.
It will work out, you'll see.
Here's what I see:
Replace the springs, yes heavier duty for the upcoming bumpers and etc.
The engine probably had the power, but you've been driving a 6.6 Duramax as a daily so naturally there's a difference in the power you'll feel. I get it as a guy I want immediate power when I hit the go pedal, but you'll adapt to the difference.
Stock shocks aren't expensive, minor upgrades for the suspension and bushing and etc also aren't going to hit your account as hard.
Remember work begets work, well work begets work beget you getting burnt out on a project and having to take a break from said project and the timeline slipping further. I'm not telling you how to spend your own time and money, merely suggesting that you not attempt to get it all done of what you think you want done whereas stuff you should do and get done, are completed knocked off the list and you have a reliable driver for your trip, without going overboard and causing headaches.
Love ya man!
But the Warrant Officer has a plan, and the plan will work. Watch and hopefully you'll be pleasantly surprised at how just subbing out some work and buying scads of new parts, then pullin' and replacin' can work.
Now to Ken's point of sorting it all out, well, yea, that could prove to be the challenge. But hey, I'd never have volunteered for the 160th if I didn't believe in taking risks if they produce huge payoffs
Who dares, wins!
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Just ordered the Hellwig front sway bar and front brakes.
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I hear a bottle of motor oil opening.......
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You going to clean the pickup out and drive it West?
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I hear a bottle of motor oil opening.......
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No Charles, a truckload of oil being opened...
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I hear a bottle of motor oil opening.......
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That got opened the min that massive read axle got purchased, I think It’s going to climb hells gate in Moab if I read right on the list
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I hear a bottle of motor oil opening.......
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Stop it, just stop it!
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You guys are just so funny!
OK, I kicked some serious butt today on reassembly of the thing
So first up was the balancer reinstallation. I heated it to 220 for about 45 min, and yessir it was pretty hot to the touch. Then I seasoned it with some Italian extra virgin assembly lube then using my impact the darned thing went right on and stopped where it should have. That was a non event
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But it’s not painted grey?
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But it’s not painted grey?
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WHHHAAATTTTTT?????????????
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New AC pump belt and tensioner
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New water pump, thanks to Kenneth
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While I had good access I pulled the idler mount to make room for a new one
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New water neck/thermostat
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Continuing to fill it all up
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Now for the radiator, then the electric fan conversion
These folks sell a pretty cool kit. They source a used electric fan from a junked silverado then fashion up a wiring harness that plugs into the fuse/circuit board to then act just like stock
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at this rate.. you’ll be done by morning!
(but it could end up being 6 months too.. hahahah)
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After cleaning the thing looked great!
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Before and after. No more giant mechanical noisy fan and a lot more room to get at things. Me likes
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super clean. i’ve tossed around the idea of doing e fans on the square body. the guy in CA has both options that support 1200hp..
i just like the idea is mechanical..
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Look at how neat the wiring is on the supplied relay switch panel:
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super clean. i’ve tossed around the idea of doing e fans on the square body. the guy in CA has both options that support 1200hp..
i just like the idea is mechanical..
I did this conversion on my H2 Hummer years ago. You could feel the difference. That big fan soaks up some horsepowers and some miles per gallon too
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So it is starting to get close. I won't install the manifold until I get the 8.1 injectors that JR sold me, but I'll get the headers back on tomorrow
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Room for a intercooler now bud!!
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I also raised the back cabinet 3/4" by setting it on some cedar boards. Why Cedar? Well, they came from my farm, they smell great, and bugs hate cedar.
Once I got the thing positioned, I strapped it down with a cargo strap. I sprayed the slides with silicone and man, those things glide like they are on buttered hot air. Now, I'll have to add a catch to hold them closed because they slide around so easily. Seriously, who needs expensive drawer slides when wood can be made to slide this nicely!
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Room for a intercooler now bud!!
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Won't need one
I should be pretty good on power, but if not I can still stroke it to 408, 427 or 454, and if that doesn't do it, then supercharge.
Of course there is always the option of bolting in a LB7 or LBZ
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As soon as I hit a work stoppage, the suspension gets stripped out!
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lots of good progress Chief. You sure it wouldnt make sense to bolt it all back up and shake it down before cutting lose the suspension?
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lots of good progress Chief. You sure it wouldn't make sense to bolt it all back up and shake it down before cutting lose the suspension?
No choice really, the stock tires are long gone and the 35's won't fit without lifting. Besides, it's economy of energy. It's all pulled down, so might as well tackle the exposed parts now
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I seen a mileage increase yesterday with new rubber.
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Don't forget to make the fans come on with the a/c. Hate to see you have to buy a compressor in bfe, Utah.
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Don't forget to make the fans come on with the a/c. Hate to see you have to buy a compressor in bfe, Utah.
I am going to wire it in accordance with the instructions.
Is this some programming thing? A modification? A wiring change?
On this cooling subject, I have to say, I am sorely disappointed in the size of that radiator. Its long but thin, like an inch thick. What does it hold, 6 oz of fluid?? Makes me want to run off to Summit and buy up a performance rad...
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Oh, and I ordered two new front axle shafts. Mine were fine, will become spares, but what concerns me is the 16-17 year old rubber boots. So I bit the bullet and went for new
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Oh and ordered all new bolts for the brakes and suspension adjuster cams, and did I mention a performance brake setup???
Probably not. :lipsrsealed:
Someone will pipe up and say, just run the 30 year old rusty worn out stock stuff, you'll ruin it by replacing with high quality new GM parts... :facepalm:
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Looks good and I like the brake upgrade. Is it just pads and rotors or some cool hard parts?
Since the suspension is going to be done, might want to lube those bolts up now to soak.
I bet the fans are made to come on with the ac pump, who makes this kit? Upgrade the rad for sure.
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The fans are controlled by the PCM and Justin will tune them accordingly.
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just run the 30 year old rusty worn out stock stuff, you'll ruin it by replacing with high quality new GM parts.
:tongue:
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Dang it, Ken beat me to it. I need to keep tapatalk open for just such occasions.
But that being said, you should really run the broke in rusty old parts new stuff just makes the other old stuff break.
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He should consider himself lucky I didn't bring up how the factory plastic axle boots last 5 times longer than aftermarket rubber ones. :)
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He should consider himself lucky I didn't bring up how the factory plastic axle boots last 5 times longer than aftermarket rubber ones. :)
Oh No!
Thought about that Ken. But I was also thinking about that grease that was put in during the Bush Administration. Bit dated for my liking.
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Lets do shiny stuff for a minute. Tate hooked me up with the new diff for the Dana 80 and the 4.88's for the 9.25 AAM. And the Cognito stuff started to show up along with all sorts of AC delco brake stuff.
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I wired up the started, and sealed a gap between it and the bell housing lower enclosure with a bead of RTV on the side. The bottom remains open
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Then I plugged in a new water temp sensor
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Then it was header time. New Dorman bolts, same gasket I used for what, three days?
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I lubed the spark plug boots up with Summit die-electric grease
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Then covered the new wires with new Hanson heat shield sleeves (Say that five times fast!)
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And installed those into the clean engine bay
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You probably can't tell, but the thing is progressing
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Next I got after the electric fan
I completely removed the fuse panel shroud to inspect things, although you really don't need to
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The business happens down at the ECM which is uncovered in this photo
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You have to remove both wiring blocks, then partially disassemble them to expose the pins. One is inserted in each block, one finding a previously unoccupied hole, and one replacing an existing pin
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Then the hot leads are attached as well as the ground
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And the finished installation. Now its up to Justin to program the change into the next software update
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Looks great!!
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Don be careful ordering AC Delco brakes (or other parts). They have about 4 different lines and only the OEM are high quality. They try to compete on price with inferior products but only the OEM will really last.
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Got quite a bit done. Way to clean in there!
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Don be careful ordering AC Delco brakes (or other parts). They have about 4 different lines and only the OEM are high quality. They try to compete on price with inferior products but only the OEM will really last.
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Yea, copy that. We are talking about new cam adjustment bolts, new caliper mounting bolts, stuff like that. Will go either GM or braided lines for the brake hoses
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Rock auto has a great search engine and you can see all the OEM parts as well as the lesser lines.
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Rock auto has a great search engine and you can see all the OEM parts as well as the lesser lines.
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Rog
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Tonight we just have to play "Shiny new parts"
I was busy all day with other things to include one sick Pre-Ranger, and one who is about to wrestle in the state championship and has a bum knee.
So what I can share is all the stuff coming in from the brown and white/purple trucks
Hellwig sway bar, front brakes n' stuff
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I guess one chinaman axle is about as good as the next...
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I hope these rotors stay looking like this. But around here, its doubtful
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And I picked up some new tools
Since the price was right, I'm experimenting with the Harbor freight electric impacts. So I picked up their 3/8 and 1/2" offerings. With 1200 ft lbs of breaking torque, this one isn't far from the Milwaukee I really wanted, but half the price.
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Have you put so power inverter in the sub. Mount the chargers in the back of the bus on the side ?
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There’s a button missing in a square d thread. And an exhaust mani and turbo in a garage...
Sorry to see this direction but understand how it came about.
CM boss!
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Chief, I bought that harborfraught 3/8 impact because I don’t have air. It has been an amazing addition to the tool bag. Had it for about 2ish years now, I think. I use it regularly and the battery seems to last a long while!
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Have you put so power inverter in the sub. Mount the chargers in the back of the bus on the side ?
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I'm not going to take those in the Suburban, just adding to my tool collection, that's all
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There’s a button missing in a square d thread. And an exhaust mani and turbo in a garage...
Sorry to see this direction but understand how it came about.
CM boss!
Rog...
I suppose, then that you read my last entry then.
It is really getting gone, and bringing a ton of cash BTW!
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Chief, I bought that harborfraught 3/8 impact because I don’t have air. It has been an amazing addition to the tool bag. Had it for about 2ish years now, I think. I use it regularly and the battery seems to last a long while!
It's workout starts tomorrow. I am stripping out the suspension. Yippee!
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Where is this list of parts for sale?
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So Brian (Bear Claw Bumpers) has been busy designing my bumpers for the burb.
I thought I might go with a new ARB for the front to save time, and his for the rear, but we just agreed that he would design both bumpers with my in accordance with what I want, and weld them up himself, then ship to me. That is such a great timesaving deal, I am going with it.
So the plan yesterday for the front bumper and brush guard looked like this:
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I asked him to turn in the base like the ARB design and he produced this:
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The one above is going to be tweaked a bit more, but he offered an interesting alternative. He suggests bringing the bar around the side and then down lower on the side of the bumper. Not sure if I like this, but it is growing on me
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Where is this list of parts for sale?
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Facebook marketplace
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We don’t even get first crack at the rubble huh?
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Sad day for RMTWS, but understood. Directions change.
I have looked at those HF tools also, price of the batteries is enough to look!
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That thing would look pretty mean with a HD truck hood on it
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That thing would look pretty mean with a HD truck hood on it and give some extra clearance just in case you wanted to throw a 12v Cummins in there.
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What a great idea Tex.
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You have to swap out the grill also don’t you? Then the bumper space is of and needs lowered to fit the grill?
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That thing would look pretty mean with a HD truck hood on it
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I was just thinkin that thought Tex
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You have to swap out the grill also don’t you? Then the bumper space is of and needs lowered to fit the grill?
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I think the hood just sits higher from the same plane Dave.
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You have to swap out the grill also don’t you? Then the bumper space is of and needs lowered to fit the grill?
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I think the hood just sits higher from the same plane Dave.
Took me way to long to figure out what you were talking about.
1500 grille should work with the HD hood. Here is a pic of a 2001 2500HD with a 1500 grille. The guy bought a 1500 grille and bumper not realizing that they were different. Installed the grille with no problems and needed to makes some spacers to install the bumper. He asked me to build him a bumper that would work with the 1500 grille.
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You have to swap out the grill also don’t you? Then the bumper space is of and needs lowered to fit the grill?
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I think the hood just sits higher from the same plane Dave.
Took me way to long to figure out what you were talking about.
1500 grille should work with the HD hood. Here is a pic of a 2001 2500HD with a 1500 grille. The guy bought a 1500 grille and bumper not realizing that they were different. Installed the grille with no problems and needed to makes some spacers to install the bumper. He asked me to build him a bumper that would work with the 1500 grille.
I figured you'd chime in. I didn't know how to properly word that :rolleyes:but I've seen too many HD hood swaps without grill swaps to believe the grill has to be changed. makes sense on the bumper though. GVW and DOT requirements etc. for the HD vs non HD...
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That two tone looks pretty good to. It was definitely a good looking body style to GM
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Really the only difference between the HD and non HD bumpers is how they are shaped to accommodate a the grilles. The HD bumpers have a little larger/ deeper grille. In the pic above you see how it is basically a straight line from the bottom of the lights under the grille to the other lights. On this HD truck the grille drops down a couple inches. The bumpers really aren't any stronger or anything.
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OK, so Brian changed the dimensions slightly to sync up with the measurements I just gave him from the burb. Based on that, and moving the outside "Down" bars inboard 2", the final design looks like this:
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Looks good, would you like me to get you the color code for that blue island so you can paint match it to the bumper?
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Looks good, would you like me to get you the color code for that blue island so you can paint match it to the bumper?
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Bwahahahaha!!! That would be perfect!!
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Bear can you edit the color on your solidworks so we can see how awesome it would look?
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I could investigate some of the rendering tools a little more in depth this evening. :huh:
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Blue with some lime green highlights to set if off.
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Looks like a winner!!!
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Sold!!! Will you please go ahead and paint said color and ship, bill to Ken
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190215/3e135c3de28d289a20858d1965ec1bbe.jpg)
Bingo!!
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Should have made it pink. Don could use it at the women’s march to clear a
Path
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nearly identical to mine!
here’s a paint color code.. ya know. for educational purposes and such.
(https://i.imgur.com/393vPHt.jpg)
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nearly identical to mine!
here’s a paint color code.. ya know. for educational purposes and such.
(https://i.imgur.com/393vPHt.jpg)
Holy cow, you related to Dave?
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I actually had a guy that was going to paint one close to this blue. It was a little brighter than this. He had his flares and rockers painted with blue linex on a white truck and said he was going to have the bumper done blue to match. I thought it sounded ridiculous and the pics were worse. After seeing it in person it really didn't look that bad and I think if he would have color matched the bumper and a couple other things it would have looked pretty good.
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Let’s see some more cabinet photos? Open adjustable shelf’s sitting on the granite?
That is a much softer blue. I like it lots better.
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:popcorn:
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don’t mean to hi jack. only these 2. i promise
(https://i.imgur.com/QHL2nyu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LeZUsUr.jpg)
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The boss is off doing something else like selling parts to Square D so we can play.
Looks good. Did you build the cabinet?
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That color I can handle.
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The boss is off doing something else like selling parts to Square D so we can play.
Looks good. Did you build the cabinet?
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i did not.. but my friend who owns a cabinet company here in town did. his dad is an antique dealer who also sells old bricks (silas lucas bricks) and his younger brother does reclaimed hardwood flooring and wood accessories (beams, mantles, large table tops. etc)
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Should have made it pink. Don could use it at the women’s march to clear a
Path
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Practical!
I like!
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What happened to my thread???
I've been preoccupied with something for the past few days...
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And, parts continue to come in
Got the injectors from JR
Although they were delivered to me, they were addressed to someone by the name, "Knucklehead!"
Oddly enough I need the 8.1L injectors in the box, so, cool!
Ordered a 13,000 lb winch to fit on that bumper Bear is tooling up, and lift kit is scheduled to be dropped off Monday.
Dunno if I'll have any time to get to this, as some other stuff is taking up all my time at the moment, but I'll update when I get back to it.
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Chief, bolt back together everything to make a runner for now.
By the other comment you’re far too busy for a build.
Throw the factory wheels back on and drive it for now.
You need to be there for the family right now.
So unless the trip gets delayed or cancelled make this a driver and maybe skip some of what you had planned.
I think with a limited time investment at current point you could have this driving again.
Much farther in not so easy.
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Hey, I simply addressed it as you told me :grin:
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Chief, bolt back together everything to make a runner for now.
By the other comment you’re far too busy for a build.
Throw the factory wheels back on and drive it for now.
You need to be there for the family right now.
So unless the trip gets delayed or cancelled make this a driver and maybe skip some of what you had planned.
I think with a limited time investment at current point you could have this driving again.
Much farther in not so easy.
It will work Samm
With Bear welding up the bumpers, that part will turn into a couple days. The engine is about done. Transmission valve body is an afternoon. The lift kit: Well everything is currently exposed and easy to drop. Just swapping parts really.
Biggest challenge will be swapping out the gears in the front diff and sticking that duragrip Yukon diff in the rear, and hanging that. Probably end up building a drive shaft for that. After that, what, a sound system, roof rack, tuning, roof tent and drive a bit to see how she works out.
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Just another fluid change,,,,,,,,,,
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Just another fluid change,,,,,,,,,,
Not as complete a one as we saw before. Staying simple here, not inventin' stuff!
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Yep, SD was legendary for sure.
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Yep, SD was legendary for sure.
Or notorious? :popcorn:
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So Brian (Bear Claw Bumpers) has been busy refining the design. Here is the latest renderings of the rear tire carrier:
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In the final incarnation there will be more tread on the tire for sure.
Actually after these pics, I made a couple more requests which may show up in the final design, but Bear said he was ordering the steel so this thing should be in production relatively soon.
I also ordered a set of Amp Research steps. which are out for delivery today
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Did the Pre-Ranger get to come home?
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Good on the build, how's the family?
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Don so you are the only other guy putting $1200 steps on a 18 year old truck lol. Go ahead and buy some diodes as you will need to install diodes in the door sensor wire on the 2001 and they don’t include them. The directions will be in the install manual but when I called asking why they weren’t included they asked “how many people are really putting $1200 steps on a 2001?” I had to agree. They are right since only the 2001 requires them.
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So his '02 it gtg?
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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well ken thats a good question. I would assume 01-02 since the communication protocol is the same, but I could be wrong.
(I looked up the instructions - 99-02 require the diodes)
Don, I know it will pain you but read the instructions. Diodes are cheap
http://d12lrhf1a6n0y2.cloudfront.net/Products/DigitalAssets/isheetAssets/AMP%20RESEARCH/is-75113-75115.pdf
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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Dave, relax all the mall crawlers aka “cool kids have these”.... :popcorn:
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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Dave, relax all the mall crawlers aka “cool kids have these”.... :popcorn:
With that flashy color on the bumper and fancy up down steps. Maybe he is going to the Truckshow in Florida on his road trip? Sema2019?
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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Dave, relax all the mall crawlers aka “cool kids have these”.... :popcorn:
With that flashy color on the bumper and fancy up down steps. Maybe he is going to the Truckshow in Florida on his road trip? Sema2019?
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Guessing Lone Star Throwdown, probably going with Charles..... :tongue:
Pay careful attention if Don paints his calipers red!
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Did the Pre-Ranger get to come home?
Yes he did, and that's why I am active again. No more sitting all day and half the night in a hospital. We brought him home last night around 2030. He still has it, but the oral antibiotic is slowly shrinking the infected area. He will go back to school Wednesday. Thanks for asking
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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Dave, relax all the mall crawlers aka “cool kids have these”.... :popcorn:
With that flashy color on the bumper and fancy up down steps. Maybe he is going to the Truckshow in Florida on his road trip? Sema2019?
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Guessing Lone Star Throwdown, probably going with Charles..... :tongue:
Pay careful attention if Don paints his calipers red!
You're gonna be surprised. I already have the calipers. I'll do the reveal when the stuff gets mounted
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Those guys with them steps are always hanging down while driving down the freeway up here. Snow and ice district them!! Solid mount the only way to go
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Dave, relax all the mall crawlers aka “cool kids have these”.... :popcorn:
With that flashy color on the bumper and fancy up down steps. Maybe he is going to the Truckshow in Florida on his road trip? Sema2019?
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Guessing Lone Star Throwdown, probably going with Charles..... :tongue:
Pay careful attention if Don paints his calipers red!
You're gonna be surprised. I already have the calipers. I'll do the reveal when the stuff gets mounted
I’m gunna take a stab at this, wilwood and they came painted red.... :wink:
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You are looking at a host of new parts showing up. Some of those boxes will get consumed starting tomorrow. I'm going to throw that stuff on there pdq if I can. Tomorrow the suspension will get stripped off and I'll start in right away installing the lift kit front components
Looking at a lot of suspension stuff, some steering stuff, and Amp Research electric steps
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I started with pulling the intake apart. First the TB came off. THat thing was caked up with what I think is coked engine oil from the vent tube. I will be getting a catch can to address that mess and prevent it from happening again
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Pulled off the injector rails with injectors next, then swapped in the 8.1 Injectors I got from JR (Thanks Fred!)
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The throttle body cleaned up nicely
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The manifold took a lot of scrubbing and I went through four tooth brushes to finally be able to declare it as being clean
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Yes it did and your welcome!
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The big EGR port will not be reused, so I filled it with plastic
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I applied some grease to all the threads on the manifold just to keep it as corrosion free as I can
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I would put it on and plug the hose. Smog police look for the obvious, remember the ECM will need programming for that.
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I reassembled the manifold and pulled the tape off the intake ports
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I would put it on and plug the hose. Smog police look for the obvious, remember the ECM will need programming for that.
No smog police here...
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Then is a quick jiffy I had it back on and all hooked up
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What, no bigger TB with the cam, headers and tuning :facepalm:
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What, no bigger TB with the cam, headers and tuning :facepalm:
Nope. Was the cam builders idea. He said to stay with the 78mm and the stock intake for now. That the truck will make power at a lower RPM with this setup.
But since then I added the 2000RPM stall converter and the 4.88 gears. So now it would make sense to go with the TBSS intake and a 90mm TB but, this will make a ton more power than stock, and I can get back to playing with the engine after the trip. Best to just lock it in here and drive it
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Glad the pre Ranger is back home Chief.
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So, I wanted to see if the torsion bars were going to be any problem, so I grabbed my two tools and set up to see which one works
The larger muffler clamp looking thing is for the HD trucks, and the blue one is for the 1500HD trucks. The blue one worked like a champ, and I removed both torsion bar stops. This is in anticipation of tearing down the front suspension in the morrow. ANd I can report that the EarthQuake HF electric impact is definitely up to the task
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Glad the pre Ranger is back home Chief.
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Thanks!
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You know I can't tell you guys how many torsion bars I have done without a tool. Just jack up the truck, relieving tension and they adjust easy.
I just got one though as they are just $20 now.
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Good news on the kiddo.
I might make one more suggestion...those heater quick connects at the firewall have a tendency to crumble. They will just fail with no warning, usually far from a parts store. We see them fail at least one a month out this way. Could just be the climate tho.
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No Ken you are correct. They do it here too. I think I mentioned that about 100 DOTs ago
Don,praise Him for the healing grace for your son!
Engine bay is looking good.
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Good news on the kiddo.
I might make one more suggestion...those heater quick connects at the firewall have a tendency to crumble. They will just fail with no warning, usually far from a parts store. We see them fail at least one a month out this way. Could just be the climate tho.
Good one Ken. I'll replace mine...
Where? GM or O'Reillys?
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Good news on kiddo, how’s HH6 doing?
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Good news on kiddo, how’s HH6 doing?
HH6 still has the thing, although better. Coughing up half a lung every morning...Sorting through it all...Thanks!
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OK, Ken, Thanks for the tip and I did a little research and found all the answers.
So I have the aux heating which has two "T" fittings, Dorman #800-413CD and 800-414CD
Also getting that new heater hose, Gates 22554
new lower radiator hose, Gates 22437
New upper rad hose, Gates 22436
and of course a short length of 5/8 hose to finish.
I am wondering why I didn't think to change that all out earlier
I guess at some early point I didn't realize I was changing all the fluids! :rolleyes:
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You haven’t put fluid back in anything yet have you?
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You haven’t put fluid back in anything yet have you?
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No
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Great news on the pre-ranger!
If HH6 is coughing it out, then maybe she’s a beatin it, which is also good to hear.
Now you need to get to your parts pile as you’ve said it’s only minor... :facepalm:
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Did the Pre-Ranger get to come home?
Yes he did, and that's why I am active again. No more sitting all day and half the night in a hospital. We brought him home last night around 2030. He still has it, but the oral antibiotic is slowly shrinking the infected area. He will go back to school Wednesday. Thanks for asking
That is good news
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Good news, Big D! Healing thoughts still going out to your HH6.
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Good news, Big D! Healing thoughts still going out to your HH6.
:likebutton:
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Well, all good plans of mice and men...
The day should have ended with the motor complete and the suspension completely stripped, that was the goal last night
That ended when the fan in the air handler in my house decided to catch fire. So today was mostly spent dealing with all of that and therefore, little precious time was left to work on the Burb.
But I did manage to get some things done.
Starting with all this:
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I thought that was everything, but it turned out to be most of what I needed
Starting with this:
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As per Ken's recommendations I pulled the plastic heater fittings and just replaced everything rubber while I was at it. He and Tex said that these things just fail with time, and that is not something I need to happen, so, "Off with the old"
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And on with the new
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Now, the old spider pipe because it goes everywhere had a plug and play end that bayoneted onto the end of the firewall plastic fitting thing. The new Gates hose ended with just a nipple which would accept another push-lock pipe end, which I do not have. In an emergency, I could slide the hose over the end and clamp it, but that is not the way of the GM. So, I have to figure out how to 1. get that bayonet fitting, and, 2. how to seal the heater hose to it in some professional looking manner. When I solve that puzzle the cooling system will be as finished as it is going to get before the trip.
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I have created, yet, but another mess!
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I have created, yet, but another mess!
We must have different definitions of what a mess is. Been grinding/welding every day this week and haven’t cleaned the floor yet.... because it only get nasty again tomorrow. Hopefully can make enough progress so I can clean this weekend.
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Please forgive me guy but.... what are these hoses you are replacing done? Looks like coolant hoses going into the firewall? What does it do? Why is it just a cheap plastic clip?
Does my duramax have these things?
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...when the fan in the air handler in my house decided to catch fire.
Hopefully no damage to the house???
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They do fall apart, good thing you are going there. Not sure on our Dmaxs Dave, but you know GM.
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I never understood why they needed a QD on a heater hose that gets changed every 10 years. Been a long time but I think I just slid mine over the heater outlet nipple and used a clamp.
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They're the quick connects for the heater core. On the Tahoe/suburban types with rear heater, they are tees instead of just one connection. Pretty sure the dmax has them up to 2010 , but can't remember for sure.
Faster assembly at the plant Charles. All about the dollar.
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Please forgive me guy but.... what are these hoses you are replacing done? Looks like coolant hoses going into the firewall? What does it do? Why is it just a cheap plastic clip?
Does my duramax have these things?
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Dunno, Dave.
Show me someone, well, anyone who understands engineers, who actually isn't also one themselves!
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...when the fan in the air handler in my house decided to catch fire.
Hopefully no damage to the house???
Nossir, dodged a bullet with that one!
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I never understood why they needed a QD on a heater hose that gets changed every 10 years. Been a long time but I think I just slid mine over the heater outlet nipple and used a clamp.
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That would be quick and simple.
But
Would like to score a factory band "Squeezer" clamp instead of that gaudy worm gear, step ladder lookin, "Gonna cut ya someday" hillbilly, red-neck lookin, 1960's, out of place, cobbled up, "Lost ma factory stuff" rigged, POC thing that I don't like!
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They're the quick connects for the heater core. On the Tahoe/suburban types with rear heater, they are tees instead of just one connection. Pretty sure the dmax has them up to 2010 , but can't remember for sure.
Faster assembly at the plant Charles. All about the dollar.
I would take a guess and say it actually is about $1 per vehicle. That doesn't seem like a lot but when you build 1 million vehicles in a year it adds up to $1,000,0000 per year. You would be surprised how many times you can validate spending thousands of dollars on testing to save $.05 per piece.
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Steady, quality progress Don! Glad to hear Pre-ranger and HH6 are making positive progress towards health - continued prayers their way. Glad to hear you avoided something on the scale of the "Great Candybar Wrapper Fire" on the air handling unit in the Casa - :grin:
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Today the suspension comes off
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Starting with the most obvious task, remove the dust covers and undo that 35mm nut that secures the axles to the hub
And thus the junk pile starts
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And then it was procedure of attacking one component at a time.
I was disappointed when nothing I did had any affect on the front caliper bolts. I broke an impact socket with my new HF 1/2" impact. THat thing is powerful. It zipped stuff apart like it was child's play
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And the pile grew
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Eventually yielding some clear space
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Then I pulled the aft crossmember and the front axle
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Creating even more junk
Of this the axle will be rebuilt, 4.88 gears installed, and bolted back in. The axle shafts are good, so I will dedicate them as spares
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But there is no removing the calipers and therefore I will lose the factory hubs. I broke one socket, then I rounded off one of the caliper bolts, and bent a breaker bar. This stuff is done. I will remove the lower control arm for reuse and toss the rest of it
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Tomorrow will see some lift kit components being installed
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With the floor cleaned off and drying overnight, this is where it all sits when I stopped for the night
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Are you going to use Deaver on the rear spring?
And do you have a drainage issue with your driveway, looks like it drains into your garage!
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Those caliper plates are a pain, Never broke a socket on one or bent a breaker bar but sure I was close.
Looks good though. You know shafts are east to find. 50 less # to carry around.
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I would take a guess and say it actually is about $1 per vehicle. That doesn't seem like a lot but when you build 1 million vehicles in a year it adds up to $1,000,0000 per year. You would be surprised how many times you can validate spending thousands of dollars on testing to save $.05 per piece.
Yeah. I remember when Ford came up with using quick connects on every a/c line connection back in the 80's. Sure kept me busy...actually still keeps me busy to this day.
Don, that's just the way those calipers are sometimes. Using a torch to free the Loctite helps, along with a long breaker to get them loose before hitting with an impact. Those china sockets don't like the ratta tat tat on something that tight.
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Yep, little bit of heat goes a long way sometimes.
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Are you going to use Deaver on the rear spring?
And do you have a drainage issue with your driveway, looks like it drains into your garage!
No
and
No
;-))
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I would take a guess and say it actually is about $1 per vehicle. That doesn't seem like a lot but when you build 1 million vehicles in a year it adds up to $1,000,0000 per year. You would be surprised how many times you can validate spending thousands of dollars on testing to save $.05 per piece.
Yeah. I remember when Ford came up with using quick connects on every a/c line connection back in the 80's. Sure kept me busy...actually still keeps me busy to this day.
Don, that's just the way those calipers are sometimes. Using a torch to free the Loctite helps, along with a long breaker to get them loose before hitting with an impact. Those china sockets don't like the ratta tat tat on something that tight.
I might get after the bolts, but there is that one I rounded off. kinda kills the possibility of saving that hub assembly
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You still own a welder right?
Edit: Duane sighting, I called it first!!! :tongue:
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Picked up a couple pallets of steel this afternoon.
(https://i.imgur.com/6UxyUAd.jpg)
This is basically all of the steel for the front and rear bumper. Just need to add some tubing to this pile for the guards and swing arm. You might not be able to tell but this pile is kind of sorted. I know how about 95% of these will go together.
(https://i.imgur.com/TvYWtZL.jpg)
But this is the rest of the pile of steel that I picked up. There is another front and rear bumper in there that I need to get finished up before I can get started. Should get most of that taken care of this weekend.
(https://i.imgur.com/7lr66IT.jpg)
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Did you get that paint match ordered bear?
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They're the quick connects for the heater core. On the Tahoe/suburban types with rear heater, they are tees instead of just one connection. Pretty sure the dmax has them up to 2010 , but can't remember for sure.
Faster assembly at the plant Charles. All about the dollar.
And faster when you gotta pull the engine or cab.
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That's one heck of a puzzle you have there Bear. I dare you to send it like that to Don.
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That's one heck of a puzzle you have there Bear. I dare you to send it like that to Don.
You stop that right now!
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I think I felt "A tremor in the force" yesterday. While I was under the truck tearing off the suspension, I had this strong desire to continue and tear off the bumper as well...
Now I know why!
Bear: Looks well, puzzling! Please show the construction of all that on this thread as we see the stack of flats transform into a combat ready, Prius killin' bumpa... ;-))
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That's one heck of a puzzle you have there Bear. I dare you to send it like that to Don.
So that was originally kind-of the original plan, but worse. I was going to email him the files and Don was going to have them cut out local. Normally that doesn't work out to bad. But between the modifications to the front bumper, the material thickness changes and all the extra stuff I was doing a lot of head scratching last night trying to figure out what was what. I would have hated sending this out to somebody like that and trying to help them figure out what goes where over the phone.
Generally I can just look at the parts as I unload and stack them according to how I will need them as I build the bumper up.
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I think I felt "A tremor in the force" yesterday. While I was under the truck tearing off the suspension, I had this strong desire to continue and tear off the bumper as well...
Now I know why!
Bear: Looks well, puzzling! Please show the construction of all that on this thread as we see the stack of flats transform into a combat ready, Prius killin' bumpa... ;-))
Hoping to get started on these Tues/ Wed next week. Hoping they should be ready to ship around the week of the 11th. Probably going to be dependent on how long it takes to get some of that brush guard tubing formed up.
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If you do end up documenting those 2 bumper builds (I know, you have your hands full as it is), I would guess everyone on here would appreciate it.
I would start a thread just for that tho. ...you think Don? or keep it in here?
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If you do end up documenting those 2 bumper builds (I know, you have your hands full as it is), I would guess everyone on here would appreciate it.
I would start a thread just for that tho. ...you think Don? or keep it in here?
Ken, FOr Brian's sake and to advertise his business, I think I'd do both. A detailed one elsewhere and a readers digest here. But if I had to choose, I'd say post here. THis thread will be one of those living things like SquareD and be read by many people over the years. It would undoubtedly lead to a lot of bumper builds/sales for Bear Claw Bumpers.
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Just take lots of pics, then edit and write with the work done.
No square body stuff if I recall? My sub needs help.
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Just take lots of pics, then edit and write with the work done.
No square body stuff if I recall? My sub needs help.
2nd’d
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I'll do my best to document what I can. Once i get started I'm not real great at remembering to take pics. I will at least document the major progress points.
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No square body stuff if I recall? My sub needs help.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190223/cae252968eaed1853b515ac4fc02fcd5.jpg)
Pretty much all you need for a square body
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Lol Charles. Funny and true.
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And that is all I plan for the rear on top of the receiver. Will be a nice air tank too being 4x6.
But I need to cut off some of the parasitic stuff here;
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Shiny stuff first. Picked up some new clevis links for Brian's new burb bumpers. These blue ones are super beefy
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Starting on the lift kit install. Inventory of the boxes: Complete
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It took some finagling to get the keys to let go of the torsion bars
The bars have a left and a right part number which differs
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Since the suspension was already removed, I started at, like, page 5 in the instruction booklet.
First up for me was to remove the frame mounted front axle, forward mount
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BDS supplies a plate to weld over the end of what's left. I did so and the darned thing fit perfectly!
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Then I sawed the upper ear off of the 9.25" AAM front axle housing
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I bolted in the passenger side axle drop bracket, then cleaned up the mounting pockets for the new front crossmember
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And bolted that into place where it occupies the pockets where the LCA used to reside
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And because of all the ankle biters today, that is all I got done so far on the lift
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All this done on the floor. Your a able man I tell ya. I did on my back once these things. Never again
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And because of all the ankle biters today, that is all I got done so far on the lift
Rats, I hate rats.....
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Don. I’ve been looking for those pocket pieces you cut off and the OEM crossmember.
Think they’ll fit my 2001 3/4Ton HD frame??
I’d be willing to make you a deal on them if they do
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Don. I’ve been looking for those pocket pieces you cut off and the OEM crossmember.
Think they’ll fit my 2001 3/4Ton HD frame??
I’d be willing to make you a deal on them if they do
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Well, you can have them, no worries.
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Well, I got to this point on the aft crossmember. I was going to throw it on ahead of the front axle, but the instructions called for the mounting of the front axle before this, so, I threw in the towel and started on that.
BDS has reworked the front bump stop location. It will now sit horizontally
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I cleaned the thing a lot better before disassembling it
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There was some goop on the drain plug. It took a puller to yank off the front yoke
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I cleaned the thing a lot better before disassembling it
Uhm, is that a legit welding table?
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I cleaned the thing a lot better before disassembling it
Uhm, is that a legit welding table?
Sure is, masonite!
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I yanked off the stubby axle, then split the case. Pretty straight forward
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I cleaned the thing a lot better before disassembling it
Uhm, is that a legit welding table?
Sure is, masonite!
You have a real vise attached to a Masonite top? :huh:
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I was able to pop the stubby shaft right out with no problem. But inside the cases it looked nasty!
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I cleaned the thing a lot better before disassembling it
Uhm, is that a legit welding table?
Sure is, masonite!
You have a real vise attached to a Masonite top? :huh:
The masonite is only a cover over a thick lumber table. I change out the tops now and then.
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Tate supplied the Randy's parts. Here is a master overhaul kit he sent me. I will end up using most of this stuff.
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The last thing to do was to punch out the old races and remove the old seals
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And then the reassembly started with a through chemical cleaning. Chem-Tool solvents are my fav for this chore. Works great on greasy things , spiders and wasp nests...Especially wasp nests.
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I started with measuring the thickness of the factory shims, then created the same thickness out of a set of shims from the Yukon kit. Then I pressed the bearing onto the pinion gear
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I destroyed this bearing separator...Chinaman junk!
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Starting to go through some tools. Broke a 22mm and a 21mm socket. Grenaded a big flat tip screwdriver and the dog chewed up the spare. Same dog walked off with my 1/4" drive ratchet and my deep 10mm socket. I broke the handle off the drop light, broke the handle of my big ball peen, and can't find my 3/8" 12 pt socket
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I dropped in the front bearing, then tapped home a new seal, then fitted the pinion gear with the first of two crush sleeves
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I sort of shifted gears (get it...shifted gears?? ;-) and stopped assembly to clean and paint the various parts. I think I'd rather switch to a clean state then proceed with the actual fitting of the gears into the case. So the aluminum got treated to gray enamel, while the iron/steel got a coat or three of black epoxy.
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Never seen the inside of a front axle. Seems pretty straight forward so far. More assembly photos please
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Don. I should mention I have the full set of factory shop manuals if you ever need to research something.
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Made some goo progress and broke a few things? Guess since it is pressed on your are not going to make setup bearings?
Looking at your lift picture reminded me of why I went with the Cognito lift. Spacers were just 1/2" vs what looks like 1"+ you have there. Just a personal preference to keep it narrow.
Watched a couple setup vids, like to see you do it!
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Never seen the inside of a front axle. Seems pretty straight forward so far. More assembly photos please
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Wilco!
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Don. I should mention I have the full set of factory shop manuals if you ever need to research something.
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I'll take em' ;-)
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Made some goo progress and broke a few things? Guess since it is pressed on your are not going to make setup bearings?
Looking at your lift picture reminded me of why I went with the Cognito lift. Spacers were just 1/2" vs what looks like 1"+ you have there. Just a personal preference to keep it narrow.
Watched a couple setup vids, like to see you do it!
Yea, not a big fan of widening the stance. That's why no stupid offset on the wheels. I have roughly the same/same on the D-Max, so should work
I went this way because this kit tucks the torsion bars up into the belly ala' factory. Cleaner, and no "Wait-ah-minute" moments crawling over logs and rocks.
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Are those plastic spacers?
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Just found out what I'm getting Don for his birthday. A big wheel barrow to carry,. uh... his jewels around with. I've never had the courage to rebuild one of those diffs, and I doubt that I ever will.
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it looks as though you got really lucky with the driver side letting go?
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it looks as though you got really lucky with the driver side letting go?
x2! I was waiting for the 2200 text message about needing a case half, (good for nuthin' so and so grumble grumble grumble)
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Don. I should mention I have the full set of factory shop manuals if you ever need to research something.
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I'll take em' ;-)
Sorry sir, if I wasnt clear. I have them and would be happy to help you research stuff and make copies or photos. Until I get rid of mine, I plan to keep them, THEN they are all yours!
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Are those plastic spacers?
Yes, like same material as my glock
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Just found out what I'm getting Don for his birthday. A big wheel barrow to carry,. uh... his jewels around with. I've never had the courage to rebuild one of those diffs, and I doubt that I ever will.
It's a little heavy to be sure
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Don. I should mention I have the full set of factory shop manuals if you ever need to research something.
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I'll take em' ;-)
Sorry sir, if I wasnt clear. I have them and would be happy to help you research stuff and make copies or photos. Until I get rid of mine, I plan to keep them, THEN they are all yours!
Deal. Meanwhile PM me an address and I'll send that stuff you wanted
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Caught the dog rolling in the muck in the neighbors pond. This was going to be the last memory of a viable breathing dog. Then I put the gun back down and got back to working on the Burb!
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Some closeups of the differential. Standard open thing, nothing special. I am pointing out the bolt that retains the cross pin for the spider gears. I never had to remove the pin or the spiders, as the stubby shaft just came out with one little tap
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BTW, the book that comes with the gearset from Randy's has a shim thickness recommendation to start with. THis diff requires .032" so that's what I put behind the bearing on the pinion gear.
The ring gear went on normally with one big exception. The bolts screw on backwards, as in left handed thread. So I had the diff in my vise and I was "Loosening it" with an uber crap ton of force. Then it loosened up and snapped off! W H A T!!!
So I's goes to the second one and apply the same crap ton of uber force to it and it snapped in half too! That's when I started wonderin' to myself "Could this be left hand thread bolts? So I's set my 1/2" impact wrench to tighten and as easy as a summer clam, they open right up and release........
I pressed the ring gear onto the differential, locktited the bolts and torqued to 103 ft/lbs
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Next I torqued the pinion yoke onto the gear with like a million gigatrons. The outer bearing does not just slip onto the shaft, but is almost a press fit. So the only way to get it seated is to crank that yoke down until everything seats.
After that I took up oil painting and started my latest masterpiece.
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And then the whole thing was slapped back together again. After turning the thing some in both directions, I had to take it all apart to check what happened gearside. First hit and I like it. Fact is it looks like the pinion is a tad too deep into the ring gear but I'm thinking acceptable. And considering just how difficult it would have been to pull that pinion gear, It is what it is. Besides this part will almost never turn anyway.
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I see a can of KBS paint there. That’s good stuff.
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I see a can of KBS paint there. That’s good stuff.
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I've had some good luck with it, and some failures too. I plan to use it on the axle shafts and driveshaft. I want to try and get some good runs to provide a vibration due to imbalance... 8</
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You want to make sure you spread way more than enough silicone onto the case halves. Some will get into the inside and gradually fall off and lubricate the gears!
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I popped the seal out of the stubby shaft, then pushed out the needle bearing inside, replacing it with one from Randy's
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Using the correct tools because I couldn't find my framing hammer, I tapped the new seal home. The old one was a bit frayed in places, so I decided not to use it.
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This is how the stubby shaft fits back together. I did not show the snap ring which retains the actual axle inside the housing
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The stubby shaft side got a new seal as well
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I slid the stubby shaft in and it snapped into place, tightened up the bolts, then swapped out the pinion yoke nut for the new one Randy's supplied
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Then it was time to bolt the newly rebuilt axle assembly into its new cradle
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Then bolt in the aft crossmember and connect it to the axle assembly.
Afterward I did some touch up paint then called it a night
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Wow, you got far! At this rate the lift will be on tomorrow.
I am no expert, but aren't you supposed to mate the halfs, set backlash and then check the pattern through the hole?
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Wow, you got far! At this rate the lift will be on tomorrow.
I am no expert, but aren't you supposed to mate the halfs, set backlash and then check the pattern through the hole?
Yes and no. Technically, that is the correct method. However, on a front diff that only gets about 30% off the power 10% of the vehicle's life, close enough is acceptable. As long as the backlash is within spec, and the pinion bearing preload is too then pattern is 3rd on the list of important stuff.
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The backlash thing has me concerned. It was tight, less back lash than, say my duramax rear diff when i set that up.
But I'm telling you, this axle assembly is not so easy to work on like as in a traditional axle. The pinion lower bearing presses on like normal, capturing the shims. When eyeballing the factory shim after I got the bearing pried off a bit, I guess it at .035". It was .032, which is what Yukon recommends in the booklet that came with the gears.
So after pressing all that together you have to stick the pinion back into the case. But, unlike gears I have set up in the past, this pinion would not just slide into the front bearing. I suppose you need to press it onto the shaft while it is sitting in the case half. I had preinstalled the front seal, so all I could do was to install the yoke, put a nut on it and allow the impact to hammer away for awhile. It took big do-dads of tonnage torque to seat that pinion, as in it ain't coming off again!
So, what does that leave you with? I think you gots what you gots, and I was lucky enough to fall in spec, but it really is a one and done deal. If you are going to have to remove the pinion again, you are probably screwed.
I had to beat the living dog snot out of the nose of the old pinion to get that beating to let loose. I don't know of any press setup that you could configure to press it off again to reshim. Anyway, just be cautious if thinking of undertaking this task
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So, instead of killing myself trying to press out the bushings in my old control arms, I just purchased a new set at O'Reilly's. These percision units were powder coated and looked great
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The factory bumpstop was toast, so i canned it, well, them. This drop bracket bolts in its place and will soon host a new bumpstop
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Yeah it took a while to get the set up right but I used my HF press to put in the Energy polyurethane bushings in the lowers.
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Yep, with the price of some parts now it doesn't make sense to rebuild.
Main thing is your happy with the setup, showing us the step or not.
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Correct menses!
This thing cost me $176 ea. and no fuss. Don't know what the ball joint and two bushings would have cost either, but I do have a sense of how much work there would have been to replace all that, and clean and repaint the old arms...
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Next I slid the new control arms into well greased pockets. I have found that greasing mounts that host rubber bushings with steel bushings deters rust and keeps the suspension more "Fluid" You will get a noticeably better ride if you do this
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Then the mail man showed up with my new Dorman front axle connecter-er watch-ah-ma-kallit
I threw that in instead of adding to the ever growing pile of parts
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The skid plates were showing next in the instructions for the lift kit, so I threw in the idler arm and mount. I scored a HD unit at Oreillys made by moog. It went in without a hitch. This one has a cool remote grease fitting which I will mount after all the suspension stuff has been installed
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Then the skid plates were installed. The hardware was really nice. 1/2" Button head stainless bolts
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Then I dropped in the new Hellwig sway bar. 1.5" in diameter, it was SOOOOO much heavier that the stocker.
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I have definitely worked the parts and hardware down some...Progress
Yakisoba time, back at it in the morrow
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I also installed new UCA’s today, well Jason at Kal Tire did.
444k km’s the OEM rubber bushings gave up the ghost.
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I attached that loose end grease fitting in this bolt hole. Nice and easy to get at
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/983cb93cf28f4ca28938c05942ccd21e.jpg)
Of course it’s on the other side of the truck but you get the idea.
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Mine is in the same place, pass side.
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I attached that loose end grease fitting in this bolt hole. Nice and easy to get at
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/983cb93cf28f4ca28938c05942ccd21e.jpg)
Of course it’s on the other side of the truck but you get the idea.
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Good idea! I'll attach mine the same place
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I want everyone to know. Don said “that’s a good idea”. Second adaboy. First was he did say he liked me. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190228/08c55fe5e69b4f5a2d472cf6f793d80a.jpg)
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You don't know how bad I wanted to edit your post Dave....but I'm working on being more mature, and less like Shawn. ;p
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You don't know how bad I wanted to edit your post Dave....but I'm working on being more mature, and less like Shawn. ;p
Thank goodness, was getting tired of ol Ken mimicking me.... :tongue:
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You don't know how bad I wanted to edit your post Dave....but I'm working on being more like Hillary and less like Shawn. ;p
FIFY
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You don't know how bad I wanted to edit your post Dave....but I'm working on being more like Hillary and less like Shawn. ;p
FIFY
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:likebutton:
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I guess the upside is that I might end up with a fortune shortly...she can't possibly out last me!
Now, Shawn's gf AOC will probably take it from me but it's a risk I am willing to take.
Sorry Don. Looks like we did it again.
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AOC/horse face? I think it’s my favorite part of the day listening to Dailey wire replay all of the garbage she spews from that sh$& filled brain.
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Hey...HEY...
This be a build thread
I'm gonna edit the lot of yous if you continue! :police: :police:
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Waitin' on parts, but proceedin'
Ordered a Pelican 70 qt cooler last noggin
I figure I'll start to accumulate things I will be packing along to start to place things so that I get an idea of how to configure, what size roof rack (Gigantic) and so forth.
Back to buildin'
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AOC/horse face? I think it’s my favorite part of the day listening to Dailey wire replay all of the garbage she spews from that sh$& filled brain.
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I think you guys need to lighten up a bit on AOC, I mean the horse face is probably a result of parents beating her daily due to the dumb things coming out of her mouth all the time....
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Hey, Ken and Shawn could double date!
Don, have you looked at the new Lifetime 55qt cooler? Right up there with the big guys and I like the hose outlet, just $97 at wally.
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They just released a larger 77. Can’t wait to add it to my truck bed. My 55 was awesome first year. No doubt it will make it further.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190228/f2dbc2a6a33d7b04aa45c5e38f623650.jpg)
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In fact buy one when you are here in Utah. They make them in Layton Utah.
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In fact buy one when you are here in Utah. They make them in Layton Utah.
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Who sells them? Is that a Walmart product?
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No it is from Lifetime, carried by many stores and US MADE!
I like the 28, haven't seen that yet!!!! Lists for $99, 30 less than the 55. Figure $70 at wally but you can order on site now for $99.
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They have outlet stores here that sell for less. Factory blemish kinda deal.
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In fact buy one when you are here in Utah. They make them in Layton Utah.
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Uh, so what's he going to use between the Tuck and your place?
Have some friends that have been using the Rtic coolers. They work as well as Yetis from our comparison testing. Obviously nothing wrong with Pelican, but like Yeti, way overpriced now that everyone has the technology (rotomolding).
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Even igloo coolers have rotomolded coolers now
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In fact buy one when you are here in Utah. They make them in Layton Utah.
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Uh, so what's he going to use between the Tuck and your place?
Have some friends that have been using the Rtic coolers. They work as well as Yetis from our comparison testing. Obviously nothing wrong with Pelican, but like Yeti, way overpriced now that everyone has the technology (rotomolding).
That’s not my concern lol
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I had the igloo's, 2 of them. OK but to much stuff hung out. Sold now.
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You guys mind if I borrow my thread for just a bit?
Thanks!
So the bump stop I ordered from SUmmit like yesterday, showed up today and I bolted them up. Energy Suspension pieces, but for some reason they are not agreeing with this aftermarket lift kit
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It was in the way when I installed the torsion bar extension bracket designed to tuck the torsion bars up like stock
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Looks like it is on backwards, wrong side.
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I ordered a Bilstein steering damper with the energy suspension stuff. So I threw some clear enamel onto the body of the thing, allowed it to dry and bolted that up. The Burb never had a stabilizer before, so this is another improvement. It bolted right up to all the factory brackets
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Looks like it is on backwards, wrong side.
You think?
It aligns with the factory LCA in this manner. A raised boss on the control arm aligns with the shorter shoulder, so I was thinking this was the right way. Anyway, I pulled it off, and switched it around and it still was not allowing the LCA to rise without pushing this thing outward. Something is not right with it...
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Next up I built up the Cognito UCA.s I had an option to place the ball joint on either side of the arm. I chose the top side for slightly less lift than if it were on the bottom
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This time around, I have been using a lot of red grease to ease installation, and I have to say, it is making things much easier
I procured new AC Delco cam adjuster hardware, then greased the surface beneath the cams and the pockets where the UCA bushings reside.
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I also replaced the defective tabs that the cams ride against with new parts
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I screwed the two halves of the baseball bat lookin' tie rods together to approximate the length of the old tie rod, and screwed them into the steering cross shaft
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Looks like it is on backwards, wrong side.
You think?
It aligns with the factory LCA in this manner. A raised boss on the control arm aligns with the shorter shoulder, so I was thinking this was the right way. Anyway, I pulled it off, and switched it around and it still was not allowing the LCA to rise without pushing this thing outward. Something is not right with it...
If I remember don't these come off and replaced by smaller ones for more travel?
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And that made it time to bolt up the steering knuckle
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Looks like it is on backwards, wrong side.
You think?
It aligns with the factory LCA in this manner. A raised boss on the control arm aligns with the shorter shoulder, so I was thinking this was the right way. Anyway, I pulled it off, and switched it around and it still was not allowing the LCA to rise without pushing this thing outward. Something is not right with it...
If I remember don't these come off and replaced by smaller ones for more travel?
No...The BDS instructions said to install the factory bumpstops to the extension brackets
But to get them to fit, I am going to have to cut some of the Bump stop off
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The sway bar got permanized with the addition of the end links. They, too, were treated with the gooey stuff and slipped in place very easily
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Check your clearance on the tie rod boot. Mine rubbed when turned tearing the boots.
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So, I do not have the hubs at this point or I could have proceeded with those and the driveshafts. What I did do was to prep those parts with their paint coatings, this time going much more natural using only clear
The shocks got a second coat and are now ready to install. I want to wait so I have more room to wiggle that axle shaft into place before cluttering the space with these larger diameter Fox Shocks
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Check your clearance on the tie rod boot. Mine rubbed when turned tearing the boots.
OK, wilco. SHould have those bolted up tomorrow sometime, I hope
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Check your clearance on the tie rod boot. Mine rubbed when turned tearing the boots.
OK, wilco. SHould have those bolted up tomorrow sometime, I hope
Yours look better. Simple fix was a few washers.
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Started on the bumpers tonight. The rear bumper usually goes together real quick compared to the front, ( just a lot less pieces) so I started there. Got it all tacked up. Plan to weld it solid tomorrow night.
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Even igloo coolers have rotomolded coolers now
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That's what I went with.
What you mean JR? Handles? Lol
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DOT response, I like the rope vs the solid handles.
Oh, the bumper looks good too,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Ropes hurt my delicate hands.
I came here to see Bear's bumper but phone won't download pic... sucky internet... can't even watch Don put his parts on upside down.
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Don where did you come across the torsion bar raising brackets? Never seen anything like that and really like the idea.
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That bumper is looking great.
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Don where did you come across the torsion bar raising brackets? Never seen anything like that and really like the idea.
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Dave, My Fabtech kit on the Duramax has that feature. Everything tucked up in the frame like it should be. That was one of the criteria of this lift kit purchase. No torsion bars hanging down in the breeze. In my mind it's the difference of a kit designed to really go off road, and one that is designed to only give a higher lift.
BDS, Fabtech, and I think one other were the only manufacturers who offer the correctly (IMO), designed kits
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Started on the bumpers tonight. The rear bumper usually goes together real quick compared to the front, ( just a lot less pieces) so I started there. Got it all tacked up. Plan to weld it solid tomorrow night.
Brian,
That looks really great. Be fun to watch these go together, then arrive here, get painted, then finally find their new home on Ravin'8
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I should give a brief explanation for the name I have given to this Suburban.
So we know that it is going to be something related to the military, foregone conclusion...
So when I first became an Army pilot back in 1980, my first assignment was as an Aeroscout Pilot in the 3rd Infantry Division stationed in Germany. I was in the "Scout" Platoon of "A" Company 3rd ABC. ABC stands for "Aviation Battalion, Combat."
Alpha company was known as "The Ravens"
Each pilot had a call sign, mine was "Raven 8."
So anytime we went flying, we filed the flight plan with our call sign as the flight's call sign, so wherever I talked to ATC or anyone else, I used that call sign.
Well, in that company, I had a bit of a reputation. That very reputation was what later drew the attention of a then top secret organization that was recruiting pilots to fly our then named "Delta-Force."
I was pretty aggressive in those days. I flew like a wild man and I trained all the time. I was actually attached to a German Army aviation company in the summers to fly night missions with them in my Jet Ranger and in their Alouettes. I was one of the five or six pilots authorized to fly on the East/West German borders and over the years, I got to see and do some interesting things. I was issued a .38 smith by the Army, but I always carried my stainless .44 magnum. That fostered my reputation. When I flew the commanding general, he would often ask me, "Chief, hand me that "hogs head" I want to show the boys what my pilots carry.
I participated in and won second place in the European "Heli-cup" an Olympics like event held for NATO pilots/crews, and on that year was nominated as "Army Aviator of the Year." I didn't win that lofty position, but it led to the name I am giving to my Suburban.
A Sergeant, a dammed good one who ran operations made up a board of poker chips. Each one had a name on it...Raven 01, Raven 02, Raven 66, Raven 80 and so forth. But for some reason, mine was purposely misspelled and lumped together. It was changed to "Ravin8"
I later found out the pilots had taken a secret poll once amongst the lift, Huey, guys. The voted on who they thought would be the very first pilot in the unit to be killed when we initially engaged the Russians and East Germans. Apparently 100% of them voted my name. But a very good friend of mine said, yea, they're gonna kill Don, but as that flaming helicopter comes screaming down, he will crash it into the nearest Russian tank he can find.
The sergeant was smitten by that comment and came away thinking I was a Raving lunatic, and thus, I became not Raven-zero-eight, but simply the misspelled, "Ravin8"
This Burb will be off the hook. It has 8 cylinders which are gonna have to work hard to push its massive hulk. It is owned by a guy who once proudly used that unit given call sign. So, "Ravin8" it becomes!
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It also seats 8 (before removing the back seat).
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It also seats 8 (before removing the back seat).
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Good point!
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good name I like it......I need a name for this truck we are building......I have nothing at the moment
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That’s a much better name than “Back Scratcher”!!
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good name I like it......I need a name for this truck we are building......I have nothing at the moment
"The Parts Shed" - from whence it came and where it may rest......
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good name I like it......I need a name for this truck we are building......I have nothing at the moment
Koo-T would work!
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That’s a much better name than “Back Scratcher”!!
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;-)
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I like it, diff and a history of the owner.
The other NTBD lift is Cognito, the lift I had. Their knuckles are also formed and welded with just a 1/2 inch spacer.
Were Fox shocks part of the package?
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I like it, diff and a history of the owner.
The other NTBD lift is Cognito, the lift I had. Their knuckles are also formed and welded with just a 1/2 inch spacer.
Were Fox shocks part of the package?
They were an option. BDS gas shocks were standard
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Don, you have lived quite the life. Good name!
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Don, you have lived quite the life. Good name!
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I certainly have!
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Still cleaning and painting some things. I had that Chevy orange left over, so, what the hay, the keys needed some paint...They got some
I am liking that Chassis black paint from HF. Inexpensive as it is, the stuff goes on well. one to two coats gives complete coverage and the flatness is about right. Price is way good too!
THe bars are stamped right and left with arrows to show intended rotation, but I taped over the tags to preserve the factory label
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And these nice Timken parts came in and in a quick jiffy were installed and painted
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The axle shafts went in without a fuss coupled to their plastic spacers and socket head fasteners
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The Fox 2.0 aluminum body shocks were next in line. Bushings/bolts/washers and mounts all got a good coating of synthetic grease
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That's like a way low, lotza lift for a simple 1.5" leveling kit! :wink:
I gave the rotors a coating of clear, but they are heavily nickle plated and well machined
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Yes, they are installed in the correct sides for the grooves and rotation.
Tex is gonna like the calipers. Basically just stockers with a good rebuild and red powder coat finish
But Don forgot to purchase the bolts to attach them, so I was at a work stoppage point. I'll have them tomorrow. Dorman replacements are like $6 for one caliper.
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They came with ceramic, low dust pads. Good enough, I would have used the factory material. I actually didn't check if that is semi-metallic or ceramic...?
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You can see I was exercising the BRI (Box reduction Initiative) which cleared up a lot of shelf and floor space.
I feed everything to my boiler, so this would be trash is actually producing BTU's to warm up the garage where these schneghanians are taking place!
Its getting there. Could be resting on the suspension tomorrow if I had the tires mounted (Not)
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That’s one fine looking lift kit. New inner fender wells?
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That does look good and lots of new parts!
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That’s one fine looking lift kit. New inner fender wells?
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Cleaned up the old ones. This thing was in really good condition when I got it. I will be reusing many parts
Question for the herd: Stock fender flares...Keep em or lose em?
Reason, is after all the washing I have done, there is still sand like silt running out of the bottom. My concern is that they may store up mud in the void which could cause rust. I think I'd rather avoid the collection of debris and just lose them now
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Truck is looking great, can’t wait to see it in person in Dacono Colorado! :beercheers:
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I think the factory flares look good on that body style. My truck lived in Missouri salt country for 7 years before I moved to Alabama. I kept it for another 4 years after moving and never had any rust issues around the fender flares. Never removed them to clean behind there either. Either way, Ravin8 is looking really good Chief.
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I would keep them too unless you want monster flares to cover the rub lines.
By the way, I dropped the SAS on my Dmax. Going with a standard lift again.
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Looks great. I'd leave the flares.
I bet a roof pod would sure come in handy for the trip now that you have less room in the back. A nice color matched pod :wink
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I have pulled mine twice now in six years of owning it. There is no rust. I live in an area where the other trucks rust out freely. I think pull em new double sided tape and reinstall. They look so much better with the factory flares. Painted to match. Clean and simple Don
Jr. You just sold all the lift kit stuff!!
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I would keep them too unless you want monster flares to cover the rub lines.
By the way, I dropped the SAS on my Dmax. Going with a standard lift again.
You bought a kingpin axle for it though?!!
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Jr. You just sold all the lift kit stuff!!
Just the lift. Will cost me a few hundred in the long run.
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Don that is looking outstanding
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Don. Top notch. You don’t need me to tell you this, but I’m grateful that there have been and are men like you who have ran into harms way with much abandon to protect our great country and way of life.
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Truck is looking great, can’t wait to see it in person in Dacono Colorado! :beercheers:
You will!
I want to introduce Chris to his future wife and Parents in law!
Just kiddin' but who knows...
So, yea, here's the deal with anyone we visit. Give us some work to do. We are willing to do anything anyone needs. We want to serve as many as we can. so Shawn, get the pre-rangers to clean up the shop, and I'll paint something or haul some old oil or something. Later on we'll eat something together and tell stories...
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I think the factory flares look good on that body style. My truck lived in Missouri salt country for 7 years before I moved to Alabama. I kept it for another 4 years after moving and never had any rust issues around the fender flares. Never removed them to clean behind there either. Either way, Ravin8 is looking really good Chief.
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Thank you and that's one vote for the "Keep-em" camp
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Looks great. I'd leave the flares.
I bet a roof pod would sure come in handy for the trip now that you have less room in the back. A nice color matched pod :wink
I sold it already
You know its weird how SquareD sold.
Like God was blessing it or something
Everytime I sold something like the front bumper for example, the next caller would want the front grill and core support. Guy after that, the steering gearbox, and motor mounts and something else just in sight.
I'm all the way down to a bed and a frame with the snorkel and roof rack still here. Rest of it is scattered all over many states
And talk about money...I'll end up around $30K for the parts I sold!
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And many votes for the keep them-there flares. So OK, I'll go with it, they stay. Think I'll pull them and coat the surface beneath them though...
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Don. Top notch. You don’t need me to tell you this, but I’m grateful that there have been and are men like you who have ran into harms way with much abandon to protect our great country and way of life.
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Appreciate it, but really, I am nobody special. I did nothing worthy of anything more than being given some peaceful days to myself. Much better men than me are really all over this site and in the places around all of you. Bobby for example. You guys have no idea, but he's a much tougher cat than I could dream of being. So, yea, appreciate it, but I am no more than anyone else.
What does give me a smile is how God leveraged that to give us this forum (group?? Church?? Family?? Friendship). Something more than the sum of its parts grew from what some folks and I started here. I could pass on, and I will in due time, but you guys can just keep this going and sow into as many men's lives as you God allows you to.
CM
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How many people does it require to assemble a religion? We need to be knocking on that door don’t we?
A group of folks that have same mind? What other requirements
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Truck is looking great, can’t wait to see it in person in Dacono Colorado! :beercheers:
You will!
I want to introduce Chris to his future wife and Parents in law!
Just kiddin' but who knows...
So, yea, here's the deal with anyone we visit. Give us some work to do. We are willing to do anything anyone needs. We want to serve as many as we can. so Shawn, get the pre-rangers to clean up the shop, and I'll paint something or haul some old oil or something. Later on we'll eat something together and tell stories...
Lol, trying to tie down two Teegardin women will be difficult enough....
Now, eating and telling stories with some good Colorado whiskey should be easy enough though!
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Truck is looking great, can’t wait to see it in person in Dacono Colorado! :beercheers:
You will!
I want to introduce Chris to his future wife and Parents in law!
Just kiddin' but who knows...
So, yea, here's the deal with anyone we visit. Give us some work to do. We are willing to do anything anyone needs. We want to serve as many as we can. so Shawn, get the pre-rangers to clean up the shop, and I'll paint something or haul some old oil or something. Later on we'll eat something together and tell stories...
Lol, trying to tie down two Teegardin women will be difficult enough....
Now, eating and telling stories with some good Kentucky Bourbon should be easy enough though!
Fixed it
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How many people does it require to assemble a religion? We need to be knocking on that door don’t we?
A group of folks that have same mind? What other requirements
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Religion you say???
Count me out!
Like minded peeps from whatever flavor they hail from lovin' the same Jesus
I'm all in!
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Sounds like you got some fair coin for all of SD parts. Sort of a blessing with the end result and changing directions.
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Sounds like you got some fair coin for all of SD parts. Sort of a blessing with the end result and changing directions.
I think it is all wrapping up nicely. And the parts parlayed very nicely into a host of cool builds to help complete them.
It's sort of like Square D is being reincarnated in Ravin8. Being as fortunate as I am finding great prices and the right parts, this Burb will be catapulted far ahead of anything I had envisioned at the offset of this adventure.
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I kind of like this sampling of opinions of the readership to sort of float ideas and concepts I am considering for this truck.
So the front suspension is wrapping up soon. The engine is almost done, just a couple of connections and some fluids.
Next I plan to strip the front and rear bumpers ahead of the arrival of Brian's creations, then I'm going to install that transmission valve body kit. I really need to do that, so I am not wasting a bunch of fluid with a start now, then drain and refill after pulling the trans pan.
Bur right after that will be the rear axle and suspension.
Now that front height is coming up 7" which is required to "Level" it in my myopic view :shocked:
I do not have enough time to get Deaver, Alcan, or Atlas to bend up springs, so I have a choice of either putting in a very tall 5" block which will certainly cause axle wrap, or doing something to remove some or all of that block.
My choices are limited here. An add a leaf will never get me the height. It might add 2", but that will screw with the handling characteristics and I'll still need a tall block.
About the only other thing I can do is to flip the shackle.
I actually own a axle flip set of rear brackets made for my D-Max truck. If I use the factory length 4" shackle, bu flipping I gain that in height or a 4" lift. So add in a 1" bock and I'm done. Seems like a no brainer.
But I actually also have a set of Silverado 2500, non-HD rear leaf springs. These have a 6 1/2" arch and are 64" long. Suburban springs are 60" long and have a 5.5" arch. If I just flipped the shackle, and made up a new front mount, I'd be right there on height with this brand new longer spring. Now longer springs ride better and provide more articulation...So, I am starting to lean heavily toward bolting that spring in for a hybrid rear suspension with the new springs and the M1A2 Abrams rear axle assembly
So, opinions?
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If you’ve got the time before your trip a smoother ride and more articulation never hurt anything. Are you accounting for the weight of these new bumpers in your lift heights? I’m assuming the front will be a good bit heavier than the rear.
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That’s a lot going on their chief.
Won’t the axle position be moved 2 inches either forward or
Backward if you only move one set of mounts?
I’d go flip and 1 inch block.
Add airbags and onboard air. Very helpful for other stuff too.
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Rough estimate of 200lbs added to the front including winch. 300lbs on the rear between bumper, swing arm, spare tire and 15 gallons of liquid.
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Great progress Don-
Leave stock flares.
Go easier path on springs with 1” blocks and you can ponder the other route after your trip!
You and the boys are certainly welcome to kick back after Chicago traffic should you be riding on 90; we’re 1 mile off exit and 2 miles from Cabelas.
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If you’ve got the time before your trip a smoother ride and more articulation never hurt anything. Are you accounting for the weight of these new bumpers in your lift heights? I’m assuming the front will be a good bit heavier than the rear.
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Well, as much as I can, in a very macro sense.
So, using the stock bumper I have some data to go by. My burb came with a special, "Firm Ride" factory optional suspension. It is above and beyond the standard capacities. I can only imagine, perhaps the offering was for LEO use or perhaps a snow plow. Why a snow plow on a "LT"??? Who knows.
And that spring is aged, as have the front torsion bars.
The new Silvy spring is designed for the base "Work Tricks" 2500, 6.0 liter 2500's. It has a massive flat spring with four elliptical leaves above it, somewhat like my factory spring..
To help out, I have 5000 lb rated air bags to augment the rear springs. I figure with the fuel cans, bumper weight, roof top tent, and expedition supplies there will be a lot more weight back there that normal.
The Silvy springs would be in their happy zone with little assistance, but the front torsions may start to run in their upper limits with +250 on the front end. I suppose only time will tell, but yes, I am thinking about all that.
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Great progress Don-
Leave stock flares.
Go easier path on springs with 1” blocks and you can ponder the other route after your trip!
You and the boys are certainly welcome to kick back after Chicago traffic should you be riding on 90; we’re 1 mile off exit and 2 miles from Cabelas.
Mike, I'll consider that. first night in Chi-town...possibly. We planned on heading out 74 to Indy, then on to st. Louis. But route is in total flux, as in doesn't really matter...We'll see what shakes out, thanks
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If you end up 1500 odd miles northwest from Mike, well more north...
The same applies. I’m at the end of the road...
750 ish miles from Cabelas. :knucklehead:
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If you end up 1500 odd miles northwest from Mike, well more north...
The same applies. I’m at the end of the road...
750 ish miles from Cabelas. :knucklehead:
Well, there's next year my friend. Looking well out ahead, I was thinking of a Canadian trek next annum. But to make it all the way up to you Samm, wouldn't we have to wait until like the second week of August???
But, really a drive up through Saskatchewan is definitely one of my bucket list must do's. Then maybe over to Yukon territories, then up to our other state for some fireberry jam from thos cool store I know of in Anchorage.
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Don, I vote for just the shackle flip right now when you do the axle. Cheaper than new springs, avoids axle wrap and they are settled.
Keep it simple unless you have more time. New longer springs means both mounts.
Alaska, that is a trip I have always wanted to do. Once the boys are out off HS, I will!
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Sounds like everyone is calling for just a shackle flip to get 4" more lift.
OK, sounds good to me. Again, not going against the grain (too much) this time when it makes sense.
So, berry. berry soon, I'll start the surgery...Back to the work at hand
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After disassembling the calipers and giving everything a good coat of grease, I loaded them with the ceramic pads and bolted them on
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Then I removed the transmission cross member and slid in the torsion bars into their respective sides oriented in the correct manner, and mated the keys to them
Again, I used the synthetic grease and things were definitely going together with more ease than I am used to seeing
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Tightening up the torsion keys with the loading tool is not fun. That thing is under so much pressure. Should it slip or break, the release of energy could do some real damage
But I managed and the suspension is now properly loaded
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Concurrently, I am fitting out the vehicle with overlanding kit. Here is my choice to keep things cool. After much advice from the forum, I did go with the recommendations to purchase a high quality cooler and not a refrig unit. I chose the Pelican 70 Qt as my primary cold storage unit
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I purchased a single dry basket, but after seeing the quality and fit, I just ordered a second one
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After relooking the storage plan, I changed up the seat arrangement. Initially putting that empty but still heavy thing on top of the soon to be bed, I decided to fold the existing double seat and put it there. With this space now to be used for the cooler and for general packing, I will mount the seat I removed and make that a passenger seat
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JR did not like the smallish fire extinguisher I first mounted, so I replaced it with a larger one and now will use the smaller one as a camping back up portable unit
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After much looking about, I finally settled on the winch I am going to use in that cool bumper Brian is building.
I had liked a Chinese built thing earlier but it was so much like the harbor freight unit with the plastic covered (only) solenoids and relay and not waterproof, that I canned that idea.
This TuffStuff 13,000 lb winch has a powerful motor and decent line speed and all the electrics are completely enclosed inside the aluminum housing sitting above the cable drum and connects either side.
It comes with a hook attached to 85 feet os synthetic line. I will cut the hook off and utilize a bobbin in lieu of the standard hook.
Amador who sold the thing to me, was a wealth of knowledge of this and other products. He uses this stuff for his own outdoor activities with his family. He ended up discounting the winch some and threw in a free soft shackle, something new he was wanting to get the word out about. All in all, a great purchase experience.
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Link to company? Those soft shackles look cool, never heard of em before but not a hard core wheeler either.
Extinguishers only work if you can get to them,,,,,,
Need to see some tire on that critter!
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Careful on the soft shackles guys, make sure you know how to hook them up properly. They work well when used correctly, I’ve wheeled with guys who had no actual pick points (saving weight) but would hook these up off of tube bumpers or rock sliders etc. mainly Toyota rigs for the record has been my experience (you know the motors that when wound up sound like my wr450).....
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Careful on the soft shackles guys, make sure you know how to hook them up properly. They work well when used correctly, I’ve wheeled with guys who had no actual pick points (saving weight) but would hook these up off of tube bumpers or rock sliders etc. mainly Toyota rigs for the record has been my experience (you know the motors that when wound up sound like my wr450).....
What is the proper way to use them? I don’t have any but am thinking about adding a couple to my UTV kit.
Y’all probably already know this but I’m gonna say it anyway just in case. If you have to deploy an extinguisher or water can keep in mind that spraying flames doesn’t accomplish anything. Get as close to the source of the fire as you can before pulling the trigger, then close up the compartment where the fire is located to limit the amount of oxygen the fire can get. Even if it’s not completely out it may buy you precious seconds to retrieve another device or come up with another plan.
If the fire is in the engine compartment always approach and work from a 45 degree angle. When the hood struts get hot and fail (under pressure) they WILL turn into arrows and usually exit through the front. I’ve seen them pass through garage doors and embedded in sheets of plywood. Catching one of those in the chest would be no bueno. Same goes for the struts on rear hatches. Working from that 45 also keeps you away from the tires as best as possible. In all honesty though if the fire is big enough to pop tires you might as well eat that extinguisher because it’s no longer of any use to ya.
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Biggest issue is not cutting them, many recovery points were built for a steel D-ring which doesn’t care about sharp edges of steel. From my understanding the connection of the soft shackle (where it hooks to itself) should be centered between the two pick points on a side. Placing the soft shackle connection (where it hooks to itself) can allow it to come loose. The ones I have used were hard to hook the noose over the knot, it was very tight so not sure how it could come undone honestly, maybe while using in conjunction with a jerk em strap not sure? They claim these are better than a d-ring as the d-ring on the end of a rubber band essentially is not a good thing. I personally rig the d-ring attached to a solid point so that isn’t an issue...
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I watched a couple vids on the shackles after they were mentioned. Used right they will be safer just like Syn line vs cable.
Never though about that with struts, good info.
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Definitely good info on the struts in an engine fire. I always knew to approach at a 45* angle, but now I know why. Soft shackles...interesting. I can definitely see the advantage, but would thing a continuous loop would be safer. Attach like a prusik, and hook the recovery cable/strap to it. No know to come loose in a spectacular fashion. I'll definitely be watching some youtube on this!
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Link to company? Those soft shackles look cool, never heard of em before but not a hard core wheeler either.
Extinguishers only work if you can get to them,,,,,,
Need to see some tire on that critter!
https://tuffstuff4x4.com/product-category/recovery-gear/
TuffStuff 4X4
Actually a couple of co-joined companies, manufacturer and 4X4 company who owns the manufacturing activity.
866-220-0171
Ask for Amador
I want to develop the relationship with them. I am always on the prowl for good people to associate RealMan with.
I have something in the works...
https://www.facebook.com/tuffstuff4x4racing
https://www.instagram.com/tuffstuff4x4/
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Biggest issue is not cutting them, many recovery points were built for a steel D-ring which doesn’t care about sharp edges of steel. From my understanding the connection of the soft shackle (where it hooks to itself) should be centered between the two pick points on a side. Placing the soft shackle connection (where it hooks to itself) can allow it to come loose. The ones I have used were hard to hook the noose over the knot, it was very tight so not sure how it could come undone honestly, maybe while using in conjunction with a jerk em strap not sure? They claim these are better than a d-ring as the d-ring on the end of a rubber band essentially is not a good thing. I personally rig the d-ring attached to a solid point so that isn’t an issue...
Good discussion
Wish it weren't on MY BUILD THREAD, but what the heck
Nature of the beast around here
So Amador talked some about what Shawn points out here. He gave me a soft shackle to use to connect the winch cable to another soft strap, like a tug strap.
The conversation started when i tried to purchase the winch with 100 feet of line instead of the 85 feet. I couldn't so a discussion ensued. He mentioned lengthening the cable with a tug strap, that I always carry and then connecting them with the soft shackle for more safety. All that led to him giving me one to try out.
And that's how we got here.
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Definitely good info on the struts in an engine fire. I always knew to approach at a 45* angle, but now I know why. Soft shackles...interesting. I can definitely see the advantage, but would thing a continuous loop would be safer. Attach like a prusik, and hook the recovery cable/strap to it. No know to come loose in a spectacular fashion. I'll definitely be watching some youtube on this!
Figures...
A tanker would pick up on high velocity projectiles
Just sayin' ;-)
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So, Brian, Bear Claw Bumpers, is pullin' his hair out over this bumper shrinkin' I had him do vs installing the winch.
He said when he started he was on version "D"
Last night he sent me a pic of version "M"
I like it
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Link to company? Those soft shackles look cool, never heard of em before but not a hard core wheeler either.
Extinguishers only work if you can get to them,,,,,,
Need to see some tire on that critter!
https://tuffstuff4x4.com/product-category/recovery-gear/
TuffStuff 4X4
Actually a couple of co-joined companies, manufacturer and 4X4 company who owns the manufacturing activity.
866-220-0171
Ask for Amador
I want to develop the relationship with them. I am always on the prowl for good people to associate RealMan with.
I have something in the works...
https://www.facebook.com/tuffstuff4x4racing
https://www.instagram.com/tuffstuff4x4/
I must have talked to him yesterday after you did. I had sent an email earlier in the day and then called in the afternoon. After hanging up I was confused as to how he knew this was for a Suburban. I didn't think I had mentioned that earlier.
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It’s the wrong color
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I think Norm point out the possible splashing of the air filter from below.
I agree
Today I did something about that
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And installed the air filter/tube. Topped the engine up with Dexcool, and motor oil
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Was just working all over on a sort of punch out list to keep everything in check and flowing along without forgetting too much
Since I needed to pull the bumper, I did it now to make more room to work and check out anything hiding beneath it that might need addressing
It will not be going back on
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These are old and will get replaced
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I'm kind of eyeballing this factory transmission cooler, and the cut and splice job the former owner did to install an additional cooler between the AC cooler and the radiator
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I pulled the factory tow hooks off, as they will not be needed any longer
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I think SLC Dave suggested I plant the remote grease line for the idler arm mount ahead of the sway bar...I did
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Had to lengthen the front diff vent line...Need to remember to fill it with fluid
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Front is looking like it can now take a bit of abuse and survive
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I almost had the wheel well liners installed, but they were still dirty, so I soaked them with the purple stuff. Will clean and install in the morning
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Motor is about ready to startup.
I should be able to get the trans stuff installed tomorrow. When that is completed and refilled, I am a go for start.
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Can you mount a bigger trans cooler? The style that MikeL designed? Not but it should drop temps 25 degrees or so
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I agree replace the stock cooler as its grossly undersized and clean up the POs hack job.
Ive done a Tru Cool M7B on my 2500 Yukon XL and Ive done the Tru Cool 40K on a 6.0 2500.
Both work equally well. M7B in the dead of summer will run 175 degrees and the 40k will run 150. Unless your towing an RV my vote is the M7B.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/new-tranny-cooler-install-b-m-70266-a-467897/
or
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/tru-cool-40k-gvw-transmission-cooler-install-thread-470284/
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Those stacked plate coolers are the way to go. Bout to swap a couple of them onto spartan.
Summit has them for a great price too.
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Looks good.
Hey Don, don't forget to add gear oil.
" " , don't forget to add a couple quarts ATF for the convertor.
" " , " " " " " " " engine oil.
Dexcool & brake fluid would be a bonus!
Just trying to help buddy. :wink:
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You mean, add fluid to the fluid change.
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What about storage on this vehicle for additional fluids? Are we going to see the extra oil filter like on the Cmax? Amsoil products?
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What about storage on this vehicle for additional fluids? Are we going to see the extra oil filter like on the Cmax? Amsoil products?
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No more Amsoil for you!
Naw, I'm all done with that hype and the hassle of testing, then relying on lab results while you drive your $10K motor into the 20K range on old oil.
I'm back to Delvac which will easily go well beyond the recommended interval. Change it on interval and get 3+ changes for the price of one Amsoil.
The Amsoil is not expensive because of its quality, which I do believe is high. It is expensive because of the multi layer marketing...Manufacturer, jobber, you. The cut to keep the middle man (men) in business has to provide incentive enough to cause them to participate, or the house of cards comes tumbling down.
If I wanted synthetic, then the Mobil synthetic is available at O'Reillys for less, and I can catch it on sale. But the last time I purchased Delvac I was buying it at $8 a gallon!
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Looks good.
Hey Don, don't forget to add gear oil.
" " , don't forget to add a couple quarts ATF for the convertor.
" " , " " " " " " " engine oil.
Dexcool & brake fluid would be a bonus!
Just trying to help buddy. :wink:
Trans pan is coming off, so trans fluid refill afterward
No brake lines yet, so no brake fluid
Ps fluid is in
Motor oil is in
Dexcool is in
Front diff...Not in, but sitting on the floor
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I agree replace the stock cooler as its grossly undersized and clean up the POs hack job.
Ive done a Tru Cool M7B on my 2500 Yukon XL and Ive done the Tru Cool 40K on a 6.0 2500.
Both work equally well. M7B in the dead of summer will run 175 degrees and the 40k will run 150. Unless your towing an RV my vote is the M7B.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/new-tranny-cooler-install-b-m-70266-a-467897/
or
https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/tru-cool-40k-gvw-transmission-cooler-install-thread-470284/
I have that stacked plate cooler I took off of SquareD. It's a big one, a B&M cooler I believe
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Going with stainless lines, or relocating factory?
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I think Norm point out the possible splashing of the air filter from below.
I agree
Today I did something about that
Good move. I went flying through some light flood water in the denali a few years back and sucked water into the air filter box. no bueno
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Looks good.
Hey Don, don't forget to add gear oil.
" " , don't forget to add a couple quarts ATF for the convertor.
" " , " " " " " " " engine oil.
Dexcool & brake fluid would be a bonus!
Just trying to help buddy. :wink:
Trans pan is coming off, so trans fluid refill afterward
No brake lines yet, so no brake fluid
Ps fluid is in
Motor oil is in
Dexcool is in
Front diff...Not in, but sitting on the floor
Write "NO OIL IN DIFF" in grease pen on your windshield. I don't want to add you to my list of hundreds of customers that call back to re-order parts!
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Going with stainless lines, or relocating factory?
Factory + I will add in a length of hard tubing to account for the difference in length
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Looks good.
Hey Don, don't forget to add gear oil.
" " , don't forget to add a couple quarts ATF for the convertor.
" " , " " " " " " " engine oil.
Dexcool & brake fluid would be a bonus!
Just trying to help buddy. :wink:
Trans pan is coming off, so trans fluid refill afterward
No brake lines yet, so no brake fluid
Ps fluid is in
Motor oil is in
Dexcool is in
Front diff...Not in, but sitting on the floor
Write "NO OIL IN DIFF" in grease pen on your windshield. I don't want to add you to my list of hundreds of customers that call back to re-order parts!
OK!
And I did that once! Installed new Yukon 4.88's into that tiny rear diff on my 01 Tundra. Drove it a few miles, then realized...No Oil!!!!!!!!!!!
Filled it and it lasted a berry long time, but did fail eventually
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Have to change up the exhaust. The 4" cat back is not going to fit with all the business I have going on underneath there. Also, when I fired the motor up that one time with the MBRP straight through 4" muffler it was quite loud. I don't like loud.
So I ordered the largest 3" Magnaflow muffler sold along with some individual bends and some 3" tubing. I will bring it out ahead of the rear tire like I did on my D-Max and free up the space around the rear axle for all the suspension goodies I have planned for that area.
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Well, it may not look like I got a lot done today, but in addition to what's shown in the pics that follow, I:
Measured and ordered an exhaust
Ordered new parking light housings
Ordered LED bulbs for the outside illumination
Picked up the CB radio
Started sorting out the auxiliary electrical system
Painted the front driveshaft
Painted the engine cover
But real work now...
It all has to get done sometime, so I got to it and sanded down the trans crossmember and front driveshaft. THat took some time as it was quite pitted and rusty
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And painted them with the KBS hardening epoxy paint
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Then to make Ken and Tate happy, I filled the front differential with fresh gear oil
I painted the fill plug red/orange to make it easier for technicians to find it in the future when they are called on to change the fluids
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Then when draining the trans fluid, I read the transgo instructions, and noticed the warning.
"This kit is not intended for the do it yourselfer. It is to be installed by a seasoned transmission technician only."
Hmmmm. So now I have a quandry. Do I take a stab at it ot just remove the valve body and carry it off to a proper technician...Hmmm
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Then to make Ken and Tate happy, I filled the front differential with fresh gear oil
I painted the fill plug red/orange to make it easier for technicians to find it in the future when they are called on to change the fluids
And by technicians, you mean yourself....without glasses on
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Then to make Ken and Tate happy, I filled the front differential with fresh gear oil
I painted the fill plug red/orange to make it easier for technicians to find it in the future when they are called on to change the fluids
And by technicians, you mean yourself....without glasses on
Well, depends
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Are you upgrading the front DS at all? For the Cognito lift I want they say a new one is needed with a CV.
Thinking I will just have a CV added to the stock, hopefully about 1/2 the price.
What size is you front swaybar?
On the tranny, go for it. Installed a few with no issues. Warning is CYA like telling you what end the gun shoots from,,,,,,,,,,
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Then to make Ken and Tate happy, I filled the front differential with fresh gear oil
I painted the fill plug red/orange to make it easier for technicians to find it in the future when they are called on to change the fluids
And by technicians, you mean yourself....without glasses on
Well, depends
I don't think he was asking you what you were wearing
JR, I know they recommend it with the 4-6 LML lift. Mine is turned down to about 3 1/2" and last time I raced someone, I thought that driveline was going to end up wrapped around the steering wheel...it was violent. But normal driving it's fine at all speeds in 4wd. I haven't launched in 4wd since then.
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Then to make Ken and Tate happy, I filled the front differential with fresh gear oil
I painted the fill plug red/orange to make it easier for technicians to find it in the future when they are called on to change the fluids
And by technicians, you mean yourself....without glasses on
Well, depends
I don't think he was asking you what you were wearing
JR, I know they recommend it with the 4-6 LML lift. Mine is turned down to about 3 1/2" and last time I raced someone, I thought that driveline was going to end up wrapped around the steering wheel...it was violent. But normal driving it's fine at all speeds in 4wd. I haven't launched in 4wd since then.
I do tend to wear safety squints most of the time, but have not been told I need vision aiding glasses yet.... I’m only 32, mom and dad didn’t get glasses until they were in their 50s.... so I’m hoping I got a few years...
All that being said, I’m ok with brightly colored objects for easy identifying!
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*Depends..=Don's old.
Made sense in my mind at the time.
Just trying to get fired again.
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*Depends..=Don's old.
Made sense in my mind at the time.
Just trying to get fired again.
I can’t recall him ever hiring you back after last time.... :knucklehead:
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Don, I’m sure you of all people can handle a trans-go kit! I’ve done one in my DMAX and one in the wife’s Acadia. You’ll do fine.
You mentioned LEDs for external, you’ll likely need a new flasher module to run the signals without hyper flash, or wire in resistors on each bulb.
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Are you upgrading the front DS at all? For the Cognito lift I want they say a new one is needed with a CV.
Thinking I will just have a CV added to the stock, hopefully about 1/2 the price.
What size is you front swaybar?
On the tranny, go for it. Installed a few with no issues. Warning is CYA like telling you what end the gun shoots from,,,,,,,,,,
Wasn't going to change the front drive shaft. Wasn't required by BDS
Front sway bar is 1.5" and solid
Trans valve body...I feel like I can handle it, but the warning was poignant. Thanks for that JR...I really want to do it myself
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*Depends..=Don's old.
Made sense in my mind at the time.
Just trying to get fired again.
I can’t recall him ever hiring you back after last time.... :knucklehead:
I can't recall what I forgot to do back whenever, whatever we are talking happened...;-)
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Don, I’m sure you of all people can handle a trans-go kit! I’ve done one in my DMAX and one in the wife’s Acadia. You’ll do fine.
You mentioned LEDs for external, you’ll likely need a new flasher module to run the signals without hyper flash, or wire in resistors on each bulb.
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Yea, not using LED's in the flashers for that very reason. Just for the scene illumination lights on the underside of the mirrors that come on when the door is opened or when you remotely unlock the vehicle.
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*Depends..=Don's old.
Made sense in my mind at the time.
Just trying to get fired again.
Ken, you know "Old" is really just a state of mind
Some can be like this 25 year old newly wed and obviously not fit his chronological age.
so
right now in my mind, I'm pretty...OLD...
Should be younger in a few days! ;-))
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Placed the Merchant Automotive transfer case kit on order.
Also ordered:
A first aid kit
Sleeping mattress for the back
Some other crap that is costing me even more monies...
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You know, I have been using an Intex twin for camping for a couple years now. Just the cheap one, 7.97 at wally and has served me well. Wider than the sleeping bag, not too thick and I sleep great on it.
I use a cheap 12v pump, but have a bigger one with pump built in that is nice. For $8 you can get a few.
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Drain plug, front diff
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New dust caps, dressed them up some with all the new stickers I now have
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Second coat of the KBS epoxy on the front drive shaft and the trans crossmember
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Picked up new brake hoses and banjo fitting bolts
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Nice fit!
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So on the drivers side, the line wasn't exactly tight, but it wasn't having any extra slack either, so I moved the mount a bit closer, drilled the frame, tapped the hole and remounted everything
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The factory mount points fit the spindle perfectly. I had to loosen the control arm line mount and slide it forward 2", but then that fit like stock as well.
Clearance check looked good
However, I did not weld the steering stops onto the spindle in hopes of tightening the turning radius. I will have to do something, as at full lock, the caliper can now just contact the lower control arm assembly
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I did a little fun thing to the engine cover. It looked old and scratched before. With all this newness, I wanted everything to fit in sync
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Then I refitted the wheel well splash liners. I am getting pretty complete up front now...Finally
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dont forget the fluids...
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dont forget the fluids...
Which ones pray tell?
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Any of them......
front diff, transfer case, trans, oil, water, rear diff, wiper fluid......
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Don why did you not get upgraded longer braided brake lines? Don’t those provide better brake pedal push?
All things involved it looks great. Hope to hear it soon
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transfer case...….
he still hasent pulled it...if he did, he did not mention it?
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transfer case...….
he still hasent pulled it...if he did, he did not mention it?
He hasn't pulled it yet - just ordered the MA kit today (so he sayz)
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Concurrently, I am fitting out the vehicle with overlanding kit. Here is my choice to keep things cool. After much advice from the forum, I did go with the recommendations to purchase a high quality cooler and not a refrig unit. I chose the Pelican 70 Qt as my primary cold storage unit
I purchased a single dry basket, but after seeing the quality and fit, I just ordered a second one
After relooking the storage plan, I changed up the seat arrangement. Initially putting that empty but still heavy thing on top of the soon to be bed, I decided to fold the existing double seat and put it there. With this space now to be used for the cooler and for general packing, I will mount the seat I removed and make that a passenger seat
I meant to comment on this the other day, but got side tracked doing something else....squirrel
of all the roto molded coolers on the market today, I definitely would not think twice or question the cost of a pelican unit!
here is why I say that:
I have traveled all over this planet and lugged all kinds of sensitive equipment with to ensure that I can do what it was that I did, and every time that equipment was packed into a pelican case!
myself and every one of my nuggets punished and beat the crap out of those pelican cases more than any civilian could ever think about doing
they have been subjected to temperature fluctuations that can fry an egg during the day to freezing water at night
and not once has a hinge, latch, seal or even the actual case cracked or failed.
oh and I may have 1 or 2 of those cases/tough boxes still in use.
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Chief, not sure what first aid kit you ordered, but it seems most of them come with less of
The stuff you’ll use/need, and more of
The stuff that is just that... stuff. I spent some time a while back finding a kit that was a good base, then added a smidge of things to it. It now travels EVERYWHERE with us, to include every flight in a carry on.
Maybe consider adjusting the kit a wee bit when it shows up.
I know there’s some EMS guys on here that might be able to give some decent pointers, maybe they’ll give their input.
Awesome to see your making great progress!
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Maybe a little smaller package than he put in CMax.
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We use a bunch of different protective cases at work. Everything from Flambeu to Pelican in all shapes and sizes. I think all of them are broken in some fashion, expect for the pelicans.
Building a med kit is definitely the way to go. Unless you’re planning on spending some major coin the pre bundled kits are mostly junk.
Compared to other you’ve had, what are your thoughts on the BDS kit so far Chief?
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I still have a pelican that went through a garage fire in 06. Scorched as you know what, but the $1000 transmitter was just fine and had to cut it open with a sawsall.
Maybe start with one of those new HF cases? Hard to go wrong for $40 and you always get a pelican later?
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The med kit question is one I keep coming back to. What and how much. I’m always frustrated looking at the kits online but also get overwhelmed when looking to build my own out. My dad has some experience building out big kits, he started the local life squad from nothing and kitted it out and designed the squad vehicles. I guess I just need to give him something to do and have home build me a couple up.
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Don had a thread about med kits a long time ago. I've been building kits from supplies from these guys
https://www.chinookmed.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Search%20-%20Branded&utm_term=Chinook%20Medical&utm_content=Chinook%20Medical
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Don why did you not get upgraded longer braided brake lines? Don’t those provide better brake pedal push?
All things involved it looks great. Hope to hear it soon
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Dave, those are just not necessary. Most of these hoses are braided anyway and easily capable of doing the job. I am not increasing pressures and like the Amsoil thing, braided over stock are a very minimal improvement vs several times the cost. Just doesn't check the "Makes sense" block in my mind.
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transfer case...….
he still hasent pulled it...if he did, he did not mention it?
He hasn't pulled it yet - just ordered the MA kit today (so he sayz)
Correct, Just ordered it
There is a method to this work which seems somewhat like a bit chaotic. Essentially moving from front to back, most important to least. When I can bring in things like the cooler and mats and stuff like that that does not impact the busy work schedule, I do so and start to stack that stuff in there so I am constantly getting a better sense of how this thing has to evolve.
So, transmission VB is today, and coming right up is the rear axle. Which means I will be pulling the driveshaft right after the trans is finished. That's in a couple days (minus family and church time) which should sync up with the arrival of the Merchant parts
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Chief, not sure what first aid kit you ordered, but it seems most of them come with less of
The stuff you’ll use/need, and more of
The stuff that is just that... stuff. I spent some time a while back finding a kit that was a good base, then added a smidge of things to it. It now travels EVERYWHERE with us, to include every flight in a carry on.
Maybe consider adjusting the kit a wee bit when it shows up.
I know there’s some EMS guys on here that might be able to give some decent pointers, maybe they’ll give their input.
Awesome to see your making great progress!
Copy that T
So as always the plan was to purchase the basic kit. I did based on what it had (Like 350 pieces) and available storage space. I plan to velcro that to the aft hatch, so initial size, about 12" X 10" X 8" was a big consideration
I will add a bunch of stuff to it, and additionally store other stuff that I may need, but not common use like Israeli bandages, in the vehicle somewhere
I picked up some perfect Bosch L-boxes that are deeper and fill up the drawers completely. One will be a tool box, another a cooking box, a third a catch all. I think you'll like the organization I get out of the packing scheme
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Don had a thread about med kits a long time ago. I've been building kits from supplies from these guys
https://www.chinookmed.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Search%20-%20Branded&utm_term=Chinook%20Medical&utm_content=Chinook%20Medical
That's what I'm doing, as I just mentioned.
This is not a "Combat" medkit, but an "Overlander" one. Combat medkit is already built up in a small ruck. Should I get into a more serious situation, that ruck would get tossed inside prior to lighting off the spark plugs
Nevertheless, a throat tube, some clotting bandages or powder, some steri closure strips, a big abdominal bandage and am asherman chest seal along with my fav Israeli battle bandage is always along for the ride. For anything beyond that, there is one of my aviatin' brothers in a whirly bird
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Chief, not sure what first aid kit you ordered, but it seems most of them come with less of
The stuff you’ll use/need, and more of
The stuff that is just that... stuff. I spent some time a while back finding a kit that was a good base, then added a smidge of things to it. It now travels EVERYWHERE with us, to include every flight in a carry on.
Maybe consider adjusting the kit a wee bit when it shows up.
I know there’s some EMS guys on here that might be able to give some decent pointers, maybe they’ll give their input.
Awesome to see your making great progress!
Copy that T
So as always the plan was to purchase the basic kit. I did based on what it had (Like 350 pieces) and available storage space. I plan to velcro that to the aft hatch, so initial size, about 12" X 10" X 8" was a big consideration
I will add a bunch of stuff to it, and additionally store other stuff that I may need, but not common use like Israeli bandages, in the vehicle somewhere
I picked up some perfect Bosch L-boxes that are deeper and fill up the drawers completely. One will be a tool box, another a cooking box, a third a catch all. I think you'll like the organization I get out of the packing scheme
Sounds like a solid plan! Look forward to seeing it. Does anybody make a molle type mount for the rear hatch? Similar to what they do on certain seat covers.
Could be handy.... but it could also overload the lift struts.
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Don had a thread about med kits a long time ago. I've been building kits from supplies from these guys
https://www.chinookmed.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Search%20-%20Branded&utm_term=Chinook%20Medical&utm_content=Chinook%20Medical
That's what I'm doing, as I just mentioned.
This is not a "Combat" medkit, but an "Overlander" one. Combat medkit is already built up in a small ruck. Should I get into a more serious situation, that ruck would get tossed inside prior to lighting off the spark plugs
Nevertheless, a throat tube, some clotting bandages or powder, some steri closure strips, a big abdominal bandage and am asherman chest seal along with my fav Israeli battle bandage is always along for the ride. For anything beyond that, there is one of my aviatin' brothers in a whirly bird
Since we travel with a small child I bought a couple RAT tourniquets because windlass styles like the CAT aren’t effective on pediatrics. The RAT isn’t on “the list” but it’s the best option I could find for limbs that small. Something is better than nothing. A nasal airway is cheap and is a good alternative to the oral in case someone still has an intact gag reflex. I’d also consider a pocket mask (with one way valve) if you don’t already have one. I am extremely picky on who I’d use one on but since I usually travel with family there could be a need for it. Aspirin is good also. Been on more than one car wreck that was the result of cardiac failure.
Just FYI on the aspirin for cardiac issues should the need arise for.
(https://i.imgur.com/sorbNtb.jpg)
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Don had a thread about med kits a long time ago. I've been building kits from supplies from these guys
https://www.chinookmed.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Search%20-%20Branded&utm_term=Chinook%20Medical&utm_content=Chinook%20Medical
That's what I'm doing, as I just mentioned.
This is not a "Combat" medkit, but an "Overlander" one. Combat medkit is already built up in a small ruck. Should I get into a more serious situation, that ruck would get tossed inside prior to lighting off the spark plugs
Nevertheless, a throat tube, some clotting bandages or powder, some steri closure strips, a big abdominal bandage and am asherman chest seal along with my fav Israeli battle bandage is always along for the ride. For anything beyond that, there is one of my aviatin' brothers in a whirly bird
Since we travel with a small child I bought a couple RAT tourniquets because windlass styles like the CAT aren’t effective on pediatrics. The RAT isn’t on “the list” but it’s the best option I could find for limbs that small. Something is better than nothing. A nasal airway is cheap and is a good alternative to the oral in case someone still has an intact gag reflex. I’d also consider a pocket mask (with one way valve) if you don’t already have one. I am extremely picky on who I’d use one on but since I usually travel with family there could be a need for it. Aspirin is good also. Been on more than one car wreck that was the result of cardiac failure.
Just FYI on the aspirin for cardiac issues should the need arise for.
(https://i.imgur.com/sorbNtb.jpg)
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james, this is great information. do you have more little cheater cards like this?
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I do have a couple more that may be useful. Sorry for the DOT boss.
(https://i.imgur.com/KVLAGH0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cUIF0Pa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eX4795s.jpg)
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cool.
so the reason I was asking, is because I think that this could be valuable information for some folks to have. could we talk you into doing a little emergency info thread down in the realman knowledge section?
NOTE:
I do understand that there is some information that you cannot share because you are not a certified instructor and a majority of the folks here are not EMT Basic certified
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Sure, I’ll see what I can work up.
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cool.
so the reason I was asking, is because I think that this could be valuable information for some folks to have. could we talk you into doing a little emergency info thread down in the realman knowledge section?
NOTE:
I do understand that there is some information that you cannot share because you are not a certified instructor and a majority of the folks here are not EMT Basic certified
I second the Sergeant's motion. Please add to our knowledge base, and I Will add all the items mentioned to my kit. And speaking of kit, it came in today
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Fresh out of the box
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Clearly labeled, but not much extra room, so I'll be adding an additional, EMT type second kit
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As for mounting...I like velcro!
Hope the back hatch gas struts are up to the task
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And it fits PERFECTLY
And
It acts as a drawer keeper shutter device as well
Koul!
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And time to play "Shiny new things"
Here is the smittyBilt winch bobbin that will grace the front of Bear's magnificent front bumper
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The newer Muffla'
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A Bosch "L" Box catch all organizer drawer that will find a home somewhere in the madness
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And the larger, Mo-Deeper L-Box for the passenger drawer. This one will house a stove, fuel, maybe some fightin' tools or cookware. Thinking of gettin' Nate to put together a camper-cooker setup so I can go gourmet atop the continental divide
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Had to add a spacer to the newly coated front driveshaft. Its a part of the BDS kit that I was trippin' over, so with respect to public safety, I removed it from the floor!
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Then it was valve body time...A dark, and oily time. A time that will not be remembered as a fun time. It was a time of slowness, anxiety, oily hair-back-arms-other places, it was a time set to the annals of history best forgotten. I shall but mention it once for historical correctness, but hereafter it shall be as most bad memories, washed away in the warm fog of good KY bourbon.
Here's what the demon thing looked like hidin' it its shifty lair:
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The pan, still red with the blood of its victims was a place of much runnage. Even after a full day of draining it still managed to leak 60 gallons of the blood like swill mostly onto me. Good news is that my body and clothing absorbed most of the diseased matter, keeping the floor relatively clean for a short time.
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Even though the first 60 gallons of ripened blood played about all over everything, when the "Shiftiness" was ripped from the bowls of this transmissionary beast, yet another 60 gallons of fermented blood, virus, and contamination leaked, well, poured out. Unfortunately, my body was unable to absorb any more, so the floor became a slick nightmare resembling the center of lake erie during a good winter freeze. You know, the place that although made of solid ice, swallows men and ships alike with narry a whisper of their passing into eternal doom and darkness.
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And upon further disassembly, what did I find???
5 more gallons of greasy swill. Enough to soak my work bench. I mean, hey, why not, it was the only island of cleanliness remaining in west end of my home!
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But then, I'd had enough!
I did what any brave warrior would do...
I drilled a hole right through the center of its aura with a silver drill bit and killed it on the spot.
Claiming victory, and revelling. in all the newly found freedom of movement from the total lack of friction from my well lubricated hoodie. I continued my murderous modification, changing the very nature of the shifty thing to reflect my WILL! For not it's will, be done, but mine!
And Father, I in no way mean any insult what so ever by making a biblical reference, just pointing out that you gave us dominion over the earth, and this wretched thing is a part of that earth, so I am just making it behave. Above all else, I love you Jesus, and Father God, and I want to make that abundantly clear!!!!!!!!
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And then after several more hours of cautiously working about this thing in the same manner one would navigate around a well populated mine field or with a conversation with the fairer sex, I had it all changed over to goodness. The parts of the carnage were but few, but the changes were nothing less than earth shaking.
Now if the darned thing will work...""#$)(#!!!!
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This stuff works well
Holds things together like the 1/4" balls onto their one nanometer wide perch.
I wonder if it works on relationships???
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I coated up the pan after a good cleanin'.
This KBS stuff is really hard stuff. Like JB-Weld in paint form. Put it on and it takes a bipartisan act of congress to remove
(Read: Never gonna happen!)
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And finally, an aerial view of the battlefield:
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So in much less words. Was the task difficultly what? 1 being my 11 year old could do it 10 being Tony Stark/Ironman?
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And the larger, Mo-Deeper L-Box for the passenger drawer. This one will house a stove, fuel, maybe some fightin' tools or cookware. Thinking of gettin' Nate to put together a camper-cooker setup so I can go gourmet atop the continental divide
this may be a possibility....
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So in much less words. Was the task difficultly what? 1 being my 11 year old could do it 10 being Tony Stark/Ironman?
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The difficulty was up there, but well within the well versed do it-yourselfer capabilities. Thing is, the instructions did not tell you how to do a task, for example, but would simply say "Remove the fornortin tube, and replace plunger with the detented supplied part and install a pink and a white spring.
I had to look all over the place to find the fornortin tube. then try and figure out how to dismantle it. Once I got into it, the way it fit/worked became self evident. There were places where having three six fingered hands would have been helpful.
Difficulty, not so much as not knowing what I'd find when I opened the door, and having to figure out which door, and where it might be located.
Sitting here now, and thinking back, I am sure I got it 100% right.
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Should have the trans pan back on tomorrow. Spent the day selling SquareD parts.
After the trans, I may do the electric steps prior to ripping out the transfer case and getting all oily again.
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Should not get oily from the transfer case. May see a few drops, but more than that you’re doing something wrong.
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Should not get oily from the transfer case. May see a few drops, but more than that you’re doing something wrong.
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Not sure about Canadian transmissions/gearboxes, but US stuff has second generation fluid multiplier technology
-really
You never run dry, never need to change fluid, and can always spot up new driveways! (can't wait to visit that Dave in the Salt Lake!)
THis device creates matter. Yep, only place in the physical world that can do it. You add a quart, give it some time and drain a gallon!
Witness my transmission. I think it can be proven that 60 gallons leaked out of the thing, after I drained it! Another sixty when I pulled the shifty thing out of its lair. Then five more gallons came out on my table.
See! 125 known gallons came out of that trans, after it had been drained. So, ya, if there was a little bit of vapor in the transfer case before I pull it apart, I had better get my immersion suit ready!
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Should have the trans pan back on tomorrow. Spent the day selling SquareD parts.
After the trans, I may do the electric steps prior to ripping out the transfer case and getting all oily again.
I think the square D thread needs updated with people purchasing parts and seeing the truck dismembered
As for my fresh concrete driveway. It will be oil proof before you get here. Epoxy the world!!
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Should have the trans pan back on tomorrow. Spent the day selling SquareD parts.
After the trans, I may do the electric steps prior to ripping out the transfer case and getting all oily again.
I think the square D thread needs updated with people purchasing parts and seeing the truck dismembered
As for my fresh concrete driveway. It will be oil proof before you get here. Epoxy the world!!
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SquareD is basically gone, he posted it up somewhere that it’s basically a frame, bed and topper. However a picture of its remnants would be neat.
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Yeah, some pics would be nice. You know, no pics and it didn't happen.
Nice FA kit, was it about $150?
You do like getting things messy don't you. Bet a few words flew as the blood ran down your arms.
I like magnaflows, went on my last 2 exhausts.
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Should have the trans pan back on tomorrow. Spent the day selling SquareD parts.
After the trans, I may do the electric steps prior to ripping out the transfer case and getting all oily again.
I think the square D thread needs updated with people purchasing parts and seeing the truck dismembered
As for my fresh concrete driveway. It will be oil proof before you get here. Epoxy the world!!
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We shall see my cabinet buildin' friend! We shall see...
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Yeah, some pics would be nice. You know, no pics and it didn't happen.
Nice FA kit, was it about $150?
You do like getting things messy don't you. Bet a few words flew as the blood ran down your arms.
I like magnaflows, went on my last 2 exhausts.
OK, but it may sadden you. Only a frame and a bed remains!
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You can steal me the fuel station door. I’ll hang it on my wall
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Yeah, some pics would be nice. You know, no pics and it didn't happen.
Nice FA kit, was it about $150?
You do like getting things messy don't you. Bet a few words flew as the blood ran down your arms.
I like magnaflows, went on my last 2 exhausts.
OK, but it may sadden you. Only a frame and a bed remains!
Scratch that, bed just sold, now just a frame, hood snorkel and fender remains
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Yeah, some pics would be nice. You know, no pics and it didn't happen.
Nice FA kit, was it about $150?
You do like getting things messy don't you. Bet a few words flew as the blood ran down your arms.
I like magnaflows, went on my last 2 exhausts.
OK, but it may sadden you. Only a frame and a bed remains!
Scratch that, bed just sold, now just a frame, hood snorkel and fender remains
This is simply amazing. A complete truck (albeit non running) down to a few pieces of body. God is definitely good!
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Yep, knocking on the door of $30K! Might get past it...
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So, looking down the road, I'll have some decisions coming up in the near future
I am now looking at the Tuff Stuff 4X4 Ranger tent (3 man) or the "Elite" which is a 5 man. They say five man, but at 79" wide and 94" long, with some foot or head room to throw the clothes into, it is really a comfy two person tent. But that's a big footprint. Spanning 80" of roof and weighing in at around #200, it is a hoss. I could still probably fit a small basket in front to store the chairs and rain fly, but If I went with the Ranger with its smaller footprint, I would sacrifice some comfort, but gain valuable roof space to store stuff. I am going to look like one of those hopelessly overloaded trucks you see in Africa with like 40 people laying all over 15 feet tall stacks of reeds or cotton...
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^^^^^ Elite has two ladders, Ranger has but one^^^^^^^^^
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Why not get a small trailer and mount it to that? Pull that and be able to not have to break camp and still use the suburban? Modify that one single axle military trailer you have with a real off road independent suspension (it’s simple, shoot me a message if you need info) and have the best of everything. You could even easily make that trailer have a top and be lockable.
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Why not get a small trailer and mount it to that? Pull that and be able to not have to break camp and still use the suburban? Modify that one single axle military trailer you have with a real off road independent suspension (it’s simple, shoot me a message if you need info) and have the best of everything. You could even easily make that trailer have a top and be lockable.
This is what we had! We had an Eezi Awn Globetrotter on top of an M416 trailer. Pulled it behind our 4 runner. Wife and I often reminisce about that setup, it was wonderful! However, the globetrotter today is stupid expensive.
I second turning the trailer into a lockable trailer top tent!!!
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Why not get a small trailer and mount it to that? Pull that and be able to not have to break camp and still use the suburban? Modify that one single axle military trailer you have with a real off road independent suspension (it’s simple, shoot me a message if you need info) and have the best of everything. You could even easily make that trailer have a top and be lockable.
Sure, mount up a fiberglass topper, cut the top, add a boat trailer winch or two and....
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Trailers don’t leak oil, lots of travel capacity added. I like the base camp idea also. Trailer for the win!!
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But then Don wouldn’t look like this when he has camp set up. I really do think he should go for the paint job.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/fefcafb58eb1187074c0e0a3e2f1b74d.jpg)
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But then Don wouldn’t look like this when he has camp set up. I really do think he should go for the paint job.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/fefcafb58eb1187074c0e0a3e2f1b74d.jpg)
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A jingle truck
I don't like them
One day flying north out of Kandahar we went past a gingle truck which was sparkling. Funny thing was no matter what the angle I was off that thing, about half a mile distant ti was sparkling.
Crew of chalk 2 told me later in the day peeps on that jingle truck were shooting at me.
To this day
I don't like jingle trucks
And
I am not sure he was right. Seems I would have seen something else had the bonehead been shooting at me on and off for the best part of a minute
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Trailer hugh...
Does the Warrant Officer have the time remaining to get that pulled off??
Trailer, hmmm
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That looks like SD before he painted it!!
I would not go with a trailer. You want to travel, not just camp. There will be 3 of you right? 1 in the back, 2 up top keep it simple and light. Easier to drive, better mileage and no backing issues.
If it becomes a camping vehicle, go with a trailer. Haul it out, drop it and you still have rig to run and a base camp.
Funny thing is I saw a 1011 on CL out here setup like that. Soft top with those camping bunk-beds and still plenty of room for a chair and fans.
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Why put a tent on the roof when you can throw one on the ground, and stored in something the size a duffle bag? Then get a fabric car topper to store baggage and what not into.
The second part is what I plan to do on my little trip since I'll have much less room than a burb has.
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Why put a tent on the roof when you can throw one on the ground, and stored in something the size a duffle bag? Then get a fabric car topper to store baggage and what not into.
The second part is what I plan to do on my little trip since I'll have much less room than a burb has.
About a 30 pound duffel bag is a pretty big tent too...
Then it’s on the ground. And a much easier everything...
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I like the idea of a small tent/trailer. Mo storage and can be left set up for when you want to take Ravin8 to the store.
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Trailers don’t leak oil, lots of travel capacity added. I like the base camp idea also. Trailer for the win!!
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This fall the plan is to build one for behind our 4Runner for a glacier trip next summer 2020 prior to Baylee heading to college in the fall. May add kayak mounts on it too.
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1 of those quick setup tents and you are GTG. Trailers are for staying somewhere for a few days or hauling something. Sounds like this first trip is a "travel trip". Get a motel every few days to shower (or use a knuckleheads) and you are set.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/68244ba3f59b8cf58335cffb026f7af4.jpg)
I can’t find any other pictures of the trailer we had. Still looking for some with the tent on it, but this is the picture from the day we picked it up. Great little thing!
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That looks like SD before he painted it!!
I would not go with a trailer. You want to travel, not just camp. There will be 3 of you right? 1 in the back, 2 up top keep it simple and light. Easier to drive, better mileage and no backing issues.
If it becomes a camping vehicle, go with a trailer. Haul it out, drop it and you still have rig to run and a base camp.
Funny thing is I saw a 1011 on CL out here setup like that. Soft top with those camping bunk-beds and still plenty of room for a chair and fans.
Sounds like Jr is saying the boss can’t handle a little trailer backing
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That looks like SD before he painted it!!
I would not go with a trailer. You want to travel, not just camp. There will be 3 of you right? 1 in the back, 2 up top keep it simple and light. Easier to drive, better mileage and no backing issues.
If it becomes a camping vehicle, go with a trailer. Haul it out, drop it and you still have rig to run and a base camp.
Funny thing is I saw a 1011 on CL out here setup like that. Soft top with those camping bunk-beds and still plenty of room for a chair and fans.
Sounds like Jr is saying the boss can’t handle a little trailer backing
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Well if that’s the case he could upgrade to a Ford.... :popcorn:
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Upgrade? Caugh caugh
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Wow, my thread just blew up (Again!)
Lots to think about...
Backing up a trailer...?? 50/50 at best
Boys used to go silent when i was backing up my long trailer at night, after a long hard day at the farm.
Once I asked, Why?
THey said they were counting the cuss words!
Apparently they'd wager between each other how many curse words would come out of Dad's mouth before I got the trailer nestled in its parking birth.
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Quick search, just found this:
Local guy builds them. M416 wanna-be
For roof top tents and stuff...?
Possible solution??
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I like it. I’ll bet you like driving it with a lower center of gravity.
Oh, wait. Piluts don’t pay attention to gravity....center or otherwise
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I like it. I’ll bet you like driving it with a lower center of gravity.
Oh, wait. Piluts don’t pay attention to gravity....center or otherwise
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Oh yes we does!
It sometimes gets the best of us!
Yikes!
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Looks like it’s lighter than the military style trailers. I’d see about lug pattern match to the burb, see if it comes in other shades of blue (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/391fc9ee1bf05a135a289c4137b9fb04.jpg)
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Personally I would like deeper sides, larger tires and an independent axle setup versus the ground dragging regular tube axle. Then add a lockable lid, my 2 cents or 4 needed upgrades.....
Edit: and add some tube angled out to those fenders from front and rear so it doesn’t get those fenders hooked on every obstacle you drag it by. Never know where this little tug might go!
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I don’t know what one of those cost but it’s be hard for me to go that route if I already had a mil trailer. Is your trailer the same lug pattern as Ravin?
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Similar thought to longball, not sure of the cost on that trailer but your existing trailer could be made to work for cheaper. And you may be able to find an actual 416 or CDN101 for cheaper. The 416s are getting a bit more difficult because of so many folks love them, and understandably so, they’re the perfect size for a trailer top tent, great storage, and pull great.
They also have the A1 version both the 416 and the CDN101, its the version with the inertia brake built in. That being said, our fully loaded 416 with globetrotter on top pulled and stopped just fine behind our 02 4runner.
Here’s an example, not real close but you get the idea...
https://owensboro.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=M416+trailer&sort=date&searchNearby=1&nearbyArea=558&nearbyArea=465&nearbyArea=377&nearbyArea=227&nearbyArea=32&nearbyArea=348&nearbyArea=342&nearbyArea=229&nearbyArea=360&nearbyArea=670&nearbyArea=58&nearbyArea=220&nearbyArea=45&nearbyArea=672&nearbyArea=361&nearbyArea=133&nearbyArea=671&nearbyArea=202
Not sure if I can post that, so feel free to delete if need be.
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I don't Don couldn't handle the trailer, but do you really need it? The burb will handle it fine too.
Just thinking with 3 of you, nice time of year with the tent and the miles you want to drive the Sub should be fine.
Plus you are adding another fluid change (that's what we call rebuilds here) on top of finishing the sub.
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I vote you buy a stand alone tent - less hassle, options are endless, stores easy, like in a roof top basket, along with cots and what not. Cheaper, doesn't resemble tac-topper and doesn't limit where you can take the Burb!
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Still agree with Mike ...KISS.
but if you want something awesome, this is pretty cool:
https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/m101a3-expedition-trailer-for-jeep.158959/
..or just throw a camper in the Mil trailer, then it could be removed and put back into farm duty.
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Well, I found this thing locally and was thinking I just may be able to make it work. This guy manufacturers these trailers for $4K, but this one, a custom is left over. It was built for a guy who was a no-show. He has it listed for $2800.
I'm not for sure on it to be certain. It looks to have trailer type shortie springs which are kind of a no-go for a true off road tugger. I asked him in a message tonight if he might consider selling it without the axle, wheels and tires. I could pdq slap in an 8-lug axle and use the same tires/wheels. But not my first choice.
I can't use my farm trailer, it has a lot of stuff in it along with 600 lbs of fuel and the water tank, and the...
But I would consider picking up another 1011. They are great trailers and pretty big!
I may not go down this new alley at all. The plan I had for a roof top tent was a doable plan, albeit with some problems and limitations.
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I would not mess with a trailer unless you plan on staying in an area long term. it will also limit your "on the fly" decision if you have to backtrack to get the trailer.
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Today I got the transmission all buttoned up
The pan is super clean and the coating looks...acceptable for something meant only to be corrosion resistant
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I liked the stock gasket a lot more than the usual floppy rubber offering that came with the new filter, so I skim coated it with some gray silicone and reused it
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Transmission got a brandially new filter
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Then the pan was thrown back on and snugged up
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I then drained the transfer case and removed the driveshaft to axle bolts, and while I was at it, pulled the new/old exhaust system back off
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The Merchant transfer case pump fix-it kit showed up, so I decided to just dive right in. The camera died...No longer recognizes its own lens, so there are no more pics.
Continuing, I cleaned and cleaned beneath the truck to get that automatic trans fluid up, and finished with scrubbing the floor.
While that was all wet, I switched to fitting the B&M trans cooler in place of the factory micro cooler. I may just retask that as a power steering cooler!
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So here is the B&M plate style cooler that will be replacing the stocker and that POC fastened to the AC condenser
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You can see, the B&M unit just dwarfs the tiny stocker in all ways
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This thing is gone like Donkey-Kong
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I started by pulling everything off in front of the cooling stack
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I gave the front end a good cleaning. Soap and water and a chemical cleaner as well, then replaced the parking light lenses and all of the remaining bulbs
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I painted the metal and covered it with an epoxy bed liner ahead of the new bumpers which are coming right up
Then I reversed the stiffener to create more room for this much larger cooling unit
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After cleaning and painting the hood release, I created some mounting tabs from a couple layers of galvanized steel captured by some riv-nuts
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And hung the new cooler to see how things are going to fit together
I will not have the fittings until tomorrow so I couldn't figure out how to run the lines just yet, but that's coming right up
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I had some more junk awaiting the scrap pile
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It was getting a bit late to pull the transfer case. I had to run over to HF to pick up another long reach jack to hold the trans up without a cross member or transfer case, and basically just ran out of time.
But I cleared the extra seat off the floor, reinstalling it to complete the passenger seating setup. This is what I am going to go with on the voyage
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Progress, what about the tranny cooler?
Have you thought about using motorcycle jacks? They go higher than many jacks and the flat surface keeps things steady.
Oh, what do you use for your leather? Using the cleaner/protector is not doing it for me. Cleans fine, just doesn't seem to protect as it should.
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Progress, what about the tranny cooler?
Have you thought about using motorcycle jacks? They go higher than many jacks and the flat surface keeps things steady.
Oh, what do you use for your leather? Using the cleaner/protector is not doing it for me. Cleans fine, just doesn't seem to protect as it should.
Yea, on the leather
I think for this type of vehicle, leather is not the go to material at all. It will feel fine, but won't stand up to the dirt. Sitting around on rocks and the ground, then sliding (sanding) into the seat...ya..No-Go!
So, in Phase two, which I may get into after the trip, I was planning to pull the whole interior and dynamat the floors/walls/roof and redye (Actually paint) the seats a rich darker brown. I am going to play with the interior colors to change it to something like you see in the upscale Chevies and other top end truck interiors. Maybe even have new leather covers...
But for now, I am thinking something very Carhartt looking and made of canvas would be the ticket. Thinking back on the years spent in mil vehicles. all of those seats were canvas. Regular Army aircraft had a nylon like material seat covering, and our Special Ops birds had sheepskin seats. Not seat covers, it WAS the covering.
So having a lot of time in all of those seats, I have to say the dirt-poor, dumb as a country rock canvas stood up best to everything short of IED's. So, I normally lather a good oil based leather preservative, then slap a seat cover on top.
The Smittybilt ballistic nylon seat covers in the Duramax truck are working like gangbusters, but they won't stay put. the LBFC (Large butt friction coefficient) motors them all over the grid, and the straps require frequent tightenin'
So, in summary, I'm still lookin'
;-)
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You might be able to only pull the trans mount out, unbolt the lowest nut on the transfer case, then lay a 2x4 in the cross member to rest the transmission on while you pull the case. That should allow it to drop low enough to get to the top nuts.
Just did an 07 the other day so it's still fresh in the noggin. (1/2 ton tho)
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You might be able to only pull the trans mount out, unbolt the lowest nut on the transfer case, then lay a 2x4 in the cross member to rest the transmission on while you pull the case. That should allow it to drop low enough to get to the top nuts.
Just did an 07 the other day so it's still fresh in the noggin. (1/2 ton tho)
Trans mount is out already
But in this 2500 Suburban, there is a permanent crossmember just below the transfer case tail housing.
So to remove it I will need to:
1. Jack up and support the transmission
2. remove the bolts securing it to the transmission
3. Slide it aft, then somehow wiggle it forward through the opening I am still afforded
4. Get that sucker outta there!
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I’ve never had a seat cover that would stay where I put them. Coworker of mine has a set of neoprene covers in his Jeep and and says they stay better than most and are holding up well.
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I’ve never had a seat cover that would stay where I put them. Coworker of mine has a set of neoprene covers in his Jeep and and says they stay better than most and are holding up well.
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I have neoprene covers in jk and they stay put, smittybilt brand I believe....
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I use the material that comes with the seat. When it wears out or gets stained to the point it really looks bad I will replace them. I hate fighting with seat covers trying to keep them in place. Why cover something up so they will look nice for the next owner. Use what you bought or replace them, not just add something over the top of what you have and fight with it all the time.
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Bob, wife’s 4Runner & my trucks etc I don’t use seat covers. However, jeeps, early broncos and truck too old to have a working ac unit get covers. They get dirty, you pull them and wash them then reinstall. More about being able to clean the interior on vehicles that need it.
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I agree with what you are saying Shawn. I was just saying if Don is fixing the Burb up for long term use, I think recovering the seats or using what is there would work better than a seat cover that moves around all the time.
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I agree with what you are saying Shawn. I was just saying if Don is fixing the Burb up for long term use, I think recovering the seats or using what is there would work better than a seat cover that moves around all the time.
I understand, think he was planning to darken up the interior. Probably a good idea that stain they use on mulch can ruin a light colored interior and well we know about Don and mulch beds.... :popcorn:
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Don't start on the mulch beds!
This one is only getting a Dura-grip and not a full locker. I don't believe duragrips are rated safe for operation in mulch...
So, got the trans oil cooler finished up and ready to throw the front end stuff back on.
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And I decided to leave the lines in their approximateish stock position
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Then I creatively hooked up two -8 sized lines in big ole stress free loops.
I have actually seen this done in aircraft to remove any tension in the line when it was near a vibration prone area, so I knew it was OK to do.
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Then made some tabs with thick aluminum strapping and also made use of the RNT (Riv-Nut Technology)
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And clamped the lines securely to various spots with aircraft padded clamps, #10 screws anchored into rivnuts.
All in all I'm happy with this installation
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Then the factory splash shield was reattached
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I added 6 quarts of trans fluid to start with. I guess I'll let it settle, then try and figure out how much oil it needs to get it closer
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Here's that inflatable pre-Ranger sleepin' pad that now graces the back end
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Has the air valve deal. Just loosen it and the mat self inflates
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And as you can see, he fits just fine in there.
He had to pull his 1911 out of the holster to get comfortable!!!!
Only in Kentucky!
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Chief, info on the mat? I need a double like that!!!
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Lookin good there Chief. Where is do you source the padded clamps and other odds and ends like that?
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Did don just add Ovaries to the front of his rig? Sure looks like ovaries to me. Anyone else?
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Did don just add Ovaries to the front of his rig? Sure looks like ovaries to me. Anyone else?
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I’m not really seeing it... at least it’s not a RAM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190314/3e97b07d467b523067ff50ff04e5cd8b.jpg)
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Carhartt seat covers=the bestest
... very happy with mine.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190314/497e60dbb1bd2e9fcc289a31369c0b84.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190314/c9dcfb89931c6917147e23591b258020.jpg)
Just a little less length is all
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Hmmm, go figure :facepalm:
Some people see the strangest things... :huh:
Well, noteworthy is that a "Dave" created that mental construct :sad: :knucklehead: :evil:
Just sayin... :wink:
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So, setting aside the anatomy lesson
The cooler...
Someone out there has used this one and has an idea if it will be sufficient.
Is there?
Cause when I button the grill up, dat's it for that side show.
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Hmmm, go figure :facepalm:
Some people see the strangest things... :huh:
Well, noteworthy is that a "Dave" created that mental construct :sad: :knucklehead: :evil:
Just sayin... :wink:
Ouch Dave!!! :tongue:
Well, he does have a fondness for the softer feminine colors I hear....
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So, setting aside the anatomy lesson
The cooler...
Someone out there has used this one and has an idea if it will be sufficient.
Is there?
Cause when I button the grill up, dat's it for that side show.
I ain’t a hydrologist but seeing how GM equipped it with one that was a third the size, I’d think it’ll work great. It has more fluid flowing through it and more space to be cooled. So, my non educated brain thinks it’ll work well. Now let’s have someone smarter than I chime in.... and hopefully confirm my theory.
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So, setting aside the anatomy lesson
The cooler...
Someone out there has used this one and has an idea if it will be sufficient.
Is there?
Cause when I button the grill up, dat's it for that side show.
I generally tell folks to pull the grille for bumper installation. Makes access to the hardware easy.
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:popcorn:
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I’d like to take back anything I might have said about how having a trailer makes it harder to go off road.
(https://i.imgur.com/zqCC10W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R6atgEQ.jpg)
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Well that’ll test your tie downs!
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Why would you need a quad if that is normal driving?
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I’d like to take back anything I might have said about how having a trailer makes it harder to go off road.
(https://i.imgur.com/zqCC10W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R6atgEQ.jpg)
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Looks like something an Aussie would do (And think it's pretty routine!)
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Yeah, and you notice they come up with all these devices to get you out of those scenarios.
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So after some wrenchin' I was able to get the transfer out and on the garage floor
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It took a lot of scrubbing with the purple degreaser then time with a pressure washer to finally get down to the magnesium and stains. No removing them!
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So the actual teardown is easy and straight forward. The snap rings presented the only challenge
A rubber plug covers the snap ring, and then there are two speed sensors on the output shaft. Odd, but the MA vid only showed one, but my NP246 definitely had two
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Top half of the case off, and back to scrubbing!. Afterward I cleaned both case halves and most of the interior with spray brake cleaner. It did a good job, and the factory gasket material wiped right off
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With the removal of the top snap ring the bearing, reluctor ring, and pump can be pulled off
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There was no damage what so ever in my case. Looks as though the pump behaved itself...Or maybe the truck was never placed in 4WD...?
The line like marks are casting scale, not scratches or goorves...
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So the actual teardown is easy and straight forward. The snap rings presented the only challenge
A rubber plug covers the snap ring, and then there are two speed sensors on the output shaft. Odd, but the MA vid only showed one, but my NP246 definitely had two
Anyone ever tell you , that you could be a hand model??......no...thought not..
It probably has 2 sensors becaus they knew it was going to a pilot. One for airspeed and one for ground speed.....
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Cleaned that half up as best as i could, then treated it to a coat of the KBS epoxy paint.
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^^^^ That paint looks like that when it is wet, but cures to look much smoother and more uniform
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Hmmm, an aviation approved transfer case, a first!
SO here's the stock pump, and the same one modified with the Merchant no-gall replacement cover.
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Then the stack was reassembled and the snap ring slid home to complete the stackup
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And placed the heavy half of the gearbox into a fixture so i could paint that half as well. I will reassemble the halves tomorrow
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I'll install new output seals, both ends before reinstalling it, but when everything is dry in the morning it will be time to silicone the case halves back together.
I got after the exhaust system. pulling it all off once more to get ready for the final installation of the muffla' story. Plus it makes it much easier to get in there.
When the case is bolted up, I'll be able to reinstall the transmission cross menber and the front drive shaft. That is going to get me way down the road on this massive project.
Before it moves under its own power, I will have touched literally everything that moves, rotates, slides, spins, pumps, or any other movement.
Think you can call me on not touching the fuel pump? Not so fast...Truck is going to get a Walbro
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And a new one of these:
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This will go Bye-Bye...No more hot pipe over the axle for me.
Have a little surprise in store for the void just behind the axle...Stay tuned.
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Oh, and one of the gentlemen who purchased a bunch of SquareD parts made this up for me, so I gave it a home:
Square D is really gone. Sold the frame two days ago. All that is left is a hood, two fenders, a wiring harness, snorkel and a bunch of bolts. Everything else has found a new home on other old 1st Gens out there. The frame went to a Marine who when pulling the gas tank out of his truck, discovered his frame was almost rusted in half. It will serve well under its new command!
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You going to order a dash mat? An overhead gun rack? I have always liked the once that relocate your visors but never had the guts to tear into a headliner
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Lots done again.
Sounds like SD came out OK. Glad you got a lot back out of it for what you put in.
I have to do the same pump work to mine still, mine leaked. BTW the pump works all the time, not just 4x4.
If this area here was a little wider (same as the 265?), we could run a 1350 vs a 1310 front universal.
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I know it's a little late but I use the same coolers on Cummins tranny's per trans builders advise. They work well.
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I know it's a little late but I use the same coolers on Cummins tranny's per trans builders advise. They work well.
Aren't those exchangers not coolers? (same purpose) Ken, I was so wanting to call last night when the camry was giving me cooling issues, but it was late.
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You going to order a dash mat? An overhead gun rack? I have always liked the once that relocate your visors but never had the guts to tear into a headliner
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Dash mat? Elaborate?
Needed in the sunnier climes??
Overhead gun rack?? No knowledge>>>
Relocated visors? Why?
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Heat exchanger/cooler same same, no?
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You going to order a dash mat? An overhead gun rack? I have always liked the once that relocate your visors but never had the guts to tear into a headliner
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Dash mat? Elaborate?
Needed in the sunnier climes??
Overhead gun rack?? No knowledge>>>
Relocated visors? Why?
For extra do-dads and things
https://www.carid.com/vdp/shelf-it-black-overhead-storage-mpn-sh2167.html
To Keep glare of the window, reduces the haze buildup on windshields
https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/dashmat-custom-dash-cover.DMC
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You going to order a dash mat? An overhead gun rack? I have always liked the once that relocate your visors but never had the guts to tear into a headliner
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dash mat? Elaborate?
Needed in the sunnier climes??
Overhead gun rack?? No knowledge>>>
Relocated visors? Why?
For extra do-dads and things
https://www.carid.com/vdp/shelf-it-black-overhead-storage-mpn-sh2167.html
To Keep glare of the window, reduces the haze buildup on windshields
https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/dashmat-custom-dash-cover.DMC
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Thanks!
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Feedback: Overhead console not sold for that year Chevy, at least I couldn't find it...
So tonight I plugged away at the transfer case. First installing some new seals
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I like the way these case halves turned out. THat KBS paint is super, super hard. Try to scrape a drip off the underside of the case, on the flange and it takes some serious omph to get it removed.
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Buttoned up and ready to reinstall
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Reinstalled
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Front driveshaft and new trans mount in, ran out of time, but only lacking the crossmember to put this one in the bag.
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Not sure what you mean that an overhead console not sold?
My 01 2500hd has an overhead console and I even took the home link garage door opener insert from a same year suburban to put in it since the trucks didn’t come with built in remote , only a compartment that held a big garage door remote and a door that had a button on it that aligned with the remote button inside so that when pressed it actuated the garage door remote.
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Charles, thinking he was referencing the aftermarket unit Dave had mentioned earlier.
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Charles, thinking he was referencing the aftermarket unit Dave had mentioned earlier.
korrekt
aDve's klni hswoed a looc aterfmraekt yrat, ubt ym gneaterino fo buSurnab swa tno cvodere
s'evaD knil dewohs a looc tekramretfa yart tub ym noitareneg fo nabrubuS saw ton derevoc
See right there how your brain works...
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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So, I also ordered the entire roof rack structure yestertag.
This time I am going to use a simple bolt together extruded aluminum product called 80/20 aluminum extrusions.
I will bolt the side rails directly to and through the existing factory rack both anchoring and strengthening that system, and extending the rack into a rectangle from the rear ro almost the windshield.
The included slots will provide infinite possibilities for attaching things like the tent, a basket, lights, the kitchen sink and a milk jug just to get me started.
Seen the back to the future Delorean?? That's the look I am going for with Ravin8 :shocked:
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Oh, and the winch never arrived. I called to trace it down and found a shipping label had been created, but no further action was ever done. So, they are sending out another one and that should be here Friday ahead of the bumpers
It's coming together nicely!
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So, I also ordered the entire roof rack structure yestertag.
This time I am going to use a simple bolt together extruded aluminum product called 80/20 aluminum extrusions.
I will bolt the side rails directly to and through the existing factory rack both anchoring and strengthening that system, and extending the rack into a rectangle from the rear ro almost the windshield.
The included slots will provide infinite possibilities for attaching things like the tent, a basket, lights, the kitchen sink and a milk jug just to get me started.
Seen the back to the future Delorean?? That's the look I am going for with Ravin8 :shocked:
Hey don if you are going the 80/20 route before you buy a bunch of stuff let me know I have tons left over from a few projects, it all depends on the size you are going to use
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So, I also ordered the entire roof rack structure yestertag.
This time I am going to use a simple bolt together extruded aluminum product called 80/20 aluminum extrusions.
I will bolt the side rails directly to and through the existing factory rack both anchoring and strengthening that system, and extending the rack into a rectangle from the rear ro almost the windshield.
The included slots will provide infinite possibilities for attaching things like the tent, a basket, lights, the kitchen sink and a milk jug just to get me started.
Seen the back to the future Delorean?? That's the look I am going for with Ravin8 :shocked:
Hey don if you are going the 80/20 route before you buy a bunch of stuff let me know I have tons left over from a few projects, it all depends on the size you are going to use
Now ya tell me!
I am working the T-10 size 1" X 1" and 1" X 2"
Two side rails of the 2" stuff, 114" long, the front and back in 2", then 6 lateral bars evenly spaced along the length.
I will be using a combination of internal 90 degree and external 90's to assemble and add rigidity to it. From what I see, it should be as stout as a a WW2 battleship but super light.
I also have plastic filler strip to close in wiring that will extend to the various lights I mount up there, and some decorative end caps to make it look professional. Intermediate braces are 46.25" in length and all the tubing and hardware is black.
I could use some for the interior. Would like to assemble a catch-all rack and some other things.
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So, here are the finish shots of the transfer case. Now that completes the engine, transmission, and transfer case, where everything got touched, rebuilt, replaced, renewed, or something. It's in like new condition
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And, yes, Tex, I remembered to fill the case with new fluid!
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There is an ordering to things. I would have assembled the exhaust, but without knowing where the exhaust sits and the relationship between that space and the room needed for step extension/retraction, I had to install the Amp Research steps first
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These three pics would suggest that I just threw the steps on there with little to no fuss, but that is no where near the truth.
The placement of those hinges requires some painstaking locating and drilling of holes, then an alignment process to make things come out OK. I was very pleased to be rewarded with a perfect fit of everything.
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So far, so good
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Then I located the control module according to the instructions, then started to lay out the wiring harness
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I got some of that hooked up, but most of it remains to be completed. I also lengthened the transfer case breather. It used to vent right on top of the transmission. Now it has found a new home up near the hood line in the engine compartment.
I want to check the trans vent to ensure it, too, can stay high and dry.
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After looking at the wheels that I had painted the centers black, I decided to remove the paint and either leave the finish alone as manufactured or acid etch them and paint them the massey gray I have been using lately...Jury is still out on that.
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Brown truck brought the new winch. It's a heavy one!
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I told myself I would not stop until the Amp Research steps were completed, so I ran the left and right wiring harness and pulled the sill plates to make the connections inside the cabin
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But, the required diodes were not included in the parts, something Amp does intentionally. They require you to call them to order the diode and mini harness to complete the wiring. Therefore I could not finish the project tonight!
I did wire in and mount all four LED illumination lamps and secure the wiring harnesses
That was all I could complete and am left with maybe an hour's work making four wiring connections
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I could see about where the steps will stow, so it was time to finish the exhaust system
First in was the Y-Pipe, again.
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Then, using a stack of 3" tubing bends, I started at the Y-Pipe outlet and worked my way backward, one painstaking piece after another
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By creating this "Misalignment" section, I got the muffler centered and tucked up into the chassis very neatly
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There is a lit of fitting and experimentation, but little bit by little bit, the system grew rearward
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The actual tailpipe is a regular piece of spaghetti. The muffler outlet is several inches above the bottom of the frame rail. Therefore the pipe needs to turn downward, then, rotate aft and turn up again, hugging the lower countours, then angle aft and finally turn downward once again. Somehow I made all of that happen. After some finish welding and the creation of the hangers, this thing will be done too!
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And that's a good thing, because I picked up the frankenstein rear axle and am about to get started on it
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^^^^^^^^^ Dana 80 with 4.88 gears and 14 bolt Gm axle tubes, axles and ends.
This one is going to be interesting!
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Spring plates on the housing?
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What kind of garbage is that?.....what is their reasoning for having the customer call and special order diodes and mini wiring harness.....after they already paid for what is marketed as a complete kit?
Or did i miss something?
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What’s the flavor of the winch Chief? That rear axles all done then? Sure is wee but nasty looking.... however I ain’t got much room to speak our frame needs a cleaning and painting....
You’re Doing great work Chief!
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I believe I told you about the diodes and even put a link to the instructions Chief. You don’t need their kit, just go to the store and buy some diodes. They are cheap.
Nate when I did mine it was because it’s only required on the 01-03 IRRC and not many people spend $1k on steps for a nearly 20 year old truck.
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What kind of garbage is that?.....what is their reasoning for having the customer call and special order diodes and mini wiring harness.....after they already paid for what is marketed as a complete kit?
Or did i miss something?
No, Nate, You're right
I had the same sentiments when I got to that point and realized I was still days from finishing. Imagine if I was planning on driving to work on monday with that mess?
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What’s the flavor of the winch Chief? That rear axles all done then? Sure is wee but nasty looking.... however I ain’t got much room to speak our frame needs a cleaning and painting....
You’re Doing great work Chief!
No, haven't touched the axle. You will see that pretty soon (This coming week??)
It is brand new as in was never installed after manufacturer. But garda just left the pallet of new axles sitting in the yard awaiting transplant into some goverment up-armored Suburban.
Then Tommy got the thing along with a couple pallets of 14 bolts that also stayed out in the weather for some time. When he was down to just this axle, I'm guessing he moved it into the shop and onto an "Axle rack" where I first saw it.
A lot of those brackets are coming off. No low hanging anything on this new axle. I will clean all that business up before repaint and reinstall. It should look a lot cleaner when I get done with it.
One notable exception, though is the track bar bracket. Stock 3/4 ton Suburbans never had one. I suppose it was added along with all the armor plate to keep the truck stable in turns. I just may keep that sucker on there...undecided
And JR, the spring pads are on the tubes and set up for my generation Suburban!!!!!!!!!
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I believe I told you about the diodes and even put a link to the instructions Chief. You don’t need their kit, just go to the store and buy some diodes. They are cheap.
Nate when I did mine it was because it’s only required on the 01-03 IRRC and not many people spend $1k on steps for a nearly 20 year old truck.
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-Copy.
Missed or forgot about it...
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I was referring to the pumpkin, not the axles. Heck I would haul that out and get it blasted.
Diodes? Do tell, I have the steps for my max, lift should be here Monday.
Any skid plates going on? I def want one under my Tcase on the max, it hangs out!
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Finished up the rear bumper today. Will be posting an update to the bumper build thread later today when I have time to get on the computer. Should finish the front tomorrow.
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Nice!!
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X2...Very nice!
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Welded up the shorty "Under the frame" tailpipe
It got a bunch of smoothing and prep after this point
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Then I started on the mounts. I ended up adding three hanger points to carry the weight of this heavier system
The most rearward is a simple threaded stud that fits up through a new panel I fabbed up and is cushioned by two sway bar bushings
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The two mounts supporting the muffler:
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The outlet protrudes just past the rocker, oriented aft and down and is pretty high off the ground.
I will have to move the step forward an inch or two
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The pipe sections then got a lot of smoothing and a couple coats of high temp paint
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While the paint was drying I removed the rear bumper and started removing the rear axle
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Then when completely dry, I bolted the exhaust system back on and can call that step in the process, complete!
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Next, I dropped the old axle out. Say goodbye to this compromise of an axle, I'll not have it!
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The size difference is obvious. I'd estimate the replacement is 75-100 pounds heavier.
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What size pipe are you running on that exhaust Chief?
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It looks a lot less busy under there for the moment. That is about to change in a big way
Where once rested an axle with two shocks will shortly be the home of that + two air bags + a rear sway bar + probably a track bar as well
Additionally that "area" will get another fuel tank and a second battery
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What size pipe are you running on that exhaust Chief?
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3"
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One more problem to solve.
This monster axle has some monster studs. Not the 14.5mm stock size but something like 3/4" fine thread. I've never seen a stud this large on a passenger vehicle.
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One more problem to solve.
This monster axle has some monster studs. Not the 14.5mm stock size but something like 3/4" fine thread. I've never seen a stud this large on a passenger vehicle.
It’s not designed for a passenger vehicle bud. What prep are you going to do to this new axle?
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What size pipe are you running on that exhaust Chief?
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3"
Let me check. I may have a nice exhaust tip for that in my shop.
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Nice jack stands! Not even webbing on the 80, just big and thick.
Do the wheels fit on the lugs? If the 14x1.5 are good enough for our Dmax, they should be fine for this. Restud.
SS tip would look nice or contour it.
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One more problem to solve.
This monster axle has some monster studs. Not the 14.5mm stock size but something like 3/4" fine thread. I've never seen a stud this large on a passenger vehicle.
It’s not designed for a passenger vehicle bud. What prep are you going to do to this new axle?
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Tear down and check
Install a new yukon Duragrip Limited slip
New seals
Teardown the hubs
Figure out this stud thing
New rotors
New calipers
Figure out a parking brake
Cut off the low hanging shock mounts and tuck new ones in tighter
De-rust/sanding/grinding/repaint
Install mounts for air bags
reinstall
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Our buddy over at great lakes off-road has some fancy Cadillac park brake something or another I seen advertised. Maybe he will help with the park brake.
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Our buddy over at great lakes off-road has some fancy Cadillac park brake something or another I seen advertised. Maybe he will help with the park brake.
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Dave, I’m not sure they will fit on this size of rotor. As they are designed for older rigs, and this is using newer possibly somewhat custom rotors.
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Well my plan is to keep it stock Chevy architecture if at all possible. Afterall it has GM 14 bolt FF axle tubes on it so there is a part numba somewhere that will allow me to bolt the good stuff right back on (I hope)
But I does has a plan "Bravo"
Remember this thing has two calipers per side...
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One more problem to solve.
This monster axle has some monster studs. Not the 14.5mm stock size but something like 3/4" fine thread. I've never seen a stud this large on a passenger vehicle.
It’s not designed for a passenger vehicle bud. What prep are you going to do to this new axle?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tear down and check
Install a new yukon Duragrip Limited slip
New seals
Teardown the hubs
Figure out this stud thing
New rotors
New calipers
Figure out a parking brake
Cut off the low hanging shock mounts and tuck new ones in tighter
De-rust/sanding/grinding/repaint
Install mounts for air bags
reinstall
And here I was starting to worry you were going to have this thing rolling before I got the bumper to you.
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One more problem to solve.
This monster axle has some monster studs. Not the 14.5mm stock size but something like 3/4" fine thread. I've never seen a stud this large on a passenger vehicle.
It’s not designed for a passenger vehicle bud. What prep are you going to do to this new axle?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tear down and check
Install a new yukon Duragrip Limited slip
New seals
Teardown the hubs
Figure out this stud thing
New rotors
New calipers
Figure out a parking brake
Cut off the low hanging shock mounts and tuck new ones in tighter
De-rust/sanding/grinding/repaint
Install mounts for air bags
reinstall
And here I was starting to worry you were going to have this thing rolling before I got the bumper to you.
Yea...
No
Stop worrying!
;-)
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Pulled the trigger on the tent
Went with the Smittybilt rooftop XL
Just too good a value to pass up.
The CVT I was eyeing was almost three times the price. I knew I was paying for regulatory compliance the western based American manufacturers have to deal with. I didn't want to be supplementing the free needle program in Portland, OR.
Picked up the annex and the ladder extension.
I have the roof rack components sitting in a box here, so after I get a bit further into the rear axle install, I'll throw that up on top to start sorting where things are going to get mounted.
Lotza work, Whew!
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When you going to add rotors?
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When you going to add rotors?
Third tuesday next week!
Bonehead!
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Sorry Don. Looked in the shop and the double walled slant tip I have is a 4 inch
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Sorry Don. Looked in the shop and the double walled slant tip I have is a 4 inch
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No worries, I'm not an exhaust tip kinda guy!
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That tent does seem like a good deal, even with the lower sleeper!
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That tent does seem like a good deal, even with the lower sleeper!
That lower area could be a sleeper, but not going to be used for that. Place to hang clothes and change, get out of the rain or bugs. place to eat at night if weather or other prevents outside. Place to just spread out some.
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You started it today? Pictures, video, you know the rules,,,,,,,,,
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Wrong thread Jr. Jump to part three
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Wrong thread Jr. Jump to part three
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What, no link just a remark!!!
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I am pretty sure it had a link
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Don is probably wanting to keep it quiet to keep the riff raff out. ;)
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Don is probably wanting to keep it quiet to keep the riff raff out. ;)
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