It may overheat now, but at least it'll look good on the side of the road.

Thanks Guys! My goal was to make it completely different from the name brands that are out there. they currently offer them with the light at the top, or the bottom...not in the center (or none that I know of for GMs)

Final pics. After the test drive tonight, I had to tilt it down quite a bit, so the light isn't all even like in the pics.

I had to keep rebending it to get it to fit the truck again...that mesh must have been spring steel!! urr   ...I bent it so much that my welds started to crack, so they were rewelded, and then redressed.

Trial fit for mounting brackets:



...with brackets welded on:



ready for paint, :



sanded:

This critter showed up from Amazonia...a 28" curved light bar. Had I known how much difficulty this was going to add, because of the curve, I might have went a different route.
So it turns out that the curve of the light matched the original grill perfectly...my version not so much.



I got out this old rusted HF metal brake with rollers and started sanding the rust from the rollers.
I then rolled the screen, and the pieces for the light enclosure/bracket.



Bottom pieces are for the bracket;

the frame work's pretty much done:

Clean work !

Man, you rocked that thing today. Looks great!

Sorry to hear that Don. I will say a prayer for you and Ranger.

I'm thinking that if it was a ground issue, other things would also quit (gauges). My bet would be the dash light dimmer module.

...but only if the radio/a/c lights also go out.

The I/P lights have they're own fuse...It's "TBC A". Maybe it's loose?

Well at 06:00 I awoke to this.



Oh snow my friend how have I missed you. You have came back twice this week now...
I am a winter guy, but once the ice is done and I accept summer then let's get on with it.

That's just wrong...got to almost 100 here yesterday, with 20mph winds. Felt like a blast furnace.

I can't believe it settled that much just being parked. How much would it drop after going down a rough trail? wow

He means take the supply (suction) hose off the mechanical pump, and stick it in the bucket. That eliminates everything back to the tank and will tell us what the lift pump is doing, pressure wise.

Awesome news Boss!!

Priming it won't help since the other pumps have forced fuel thru it already.

There's a chance that the plunger is stuck "in". On a cummins lift pump, they pump on the "return" stroke. I would loosen the pump, bump the engine slowly, and see if the pump 'rocks" back and forth. That will tell us if the plunger is contacting the camshaft lobe....or.... pull it off and get out some measuring devices to see if it's stuck.

They do make aluminum culverts....

...and thick plastic ones as well. The good part about having the water above ground, is that you have gravity.

This thread is for showing and reviewing tool boxes or fuel tank w/tool boxes.

This one came from Tractor supply, and it's made by DeeZee. I got real tired of throwing stuff in the back, unprotected:





some carpet for the inside:




..had to cut the jack to fit:


...got the shorter version to allow room for Jerry cans on either side:

Wilbur, when the tire touches the ground, it is opposite of what's on top. if you enlarge the pic you can see that the track is backwards as it meets the ground. (I'm not trying to sound like a smart butt )

Actually the tractor tracks are heading away from the pond, unless someone put the tires on backwards (I've seen that before).

I would guess that some of these "neighbors" also know about RMTWS, from all of your rolling billboards, and probably have visited this site....might wanna keep that in mind.


...or maybe I'm the "too cautious" type.

Thank you sir!

The fit is nice and tight, especially where you sit. they don't conform in the middle until you sit in them. I think that's because of how stiff the material is. They look pretty decent.
They came with 6 different pouches that seem to be the same (good) quality, and the same material.

What will i use them for? Well, my glove box and consol are both full...so i can relocate the 45 mags, extra keys, owners manual, and like Bobby said..pretty much anything I don't wanna shove under the back seat as long as it's not too large.

Now all is good. It works without me even knowing it's there (unlike that noisy *** arb unit). The pump is a little small for full on impact wrench use, but it's perfect for what I wanted. My main gripe with the electric one was noise, and durability. Every time the ignition is cycled, the air bag system purges to disperse any moisture, and when it would do that, the electric pump would cycle.

Here it is ready for install:



..mounted to frame with the air filter on:



...and quick connect and gauge on other end:

In researching the use of a york style pump, I've read, and have some experience, with them pumping out all of the oil in their sumps over a fairly short time frame. They are designed to allow oil past the rings and into the a/c flow to keep cool and to keep from building up oil in one area of an a/c system. One fix for this is to plug an oil passage behind the front seal, that directs oil into the suction port of the pump. Some guys report that this helps, while others say it didn't do anything to cut down on the oil loss. I plugged it anyways, just for giggles. No pics of that procedure.
To catch this rogue oil (and moisture) I plumbed an air filter in right at the tank.

..speaking of tanks, here is the tank my buddy gave me. The mounts were cut off, but the color matched my truck. A bonus!
First I welding in a drain bung, that will house the blow off valve/drain:


..then welding on a larger inlet bung. It was 1/4, now it's 3/8 NPT:

The right tool sure helps:



The end that hooks to the pump:



...then strapped the finished hose to the suction hose (cold side) on the a/c. In theory, this will help keep the air pump cooler on hot az days (hey, it's my fantasy!):

As big D would say, Danka!