"12 Square" a 12' X 12' shed project

[Flyin6]

Purchased the rest of the materials to complete the walls

Cost so far $1,477 and I have 24 hours labor invested.

The foundation, floor joists and deck is complete

The walls are 75% complete and paid for

This is going to be one cost effective project when complete

Remember, looking at these pre built Amish buildings a 10 X 16 was in the mid $4,800 range, say $4850 for grins. It had a bit more square footage (16 ft/2 more) but only had 6'3" walls, so total volume was:

Commercial building: 1000 Cu. Ft
My building:  1152 Cu Ft  And ability to construct a sizable loft

I estimate I will come in at less than half the price of that commercially built thing which is not screwed together, but nailed, is smaller, has shingles vs my steel roof, does not have a loft to speak of vs my loft/second floor of at least 5' height

And did I mention mine is less than half the price!

Those Amish are pretty highly paid folks! What a deal! Most of them are also tax exempt and they never spend a day of their lives serving their nation in its military...Pretty cool deal wouldn't you say?

[Jared Herzog]

People would be better off always building their own storage buildings. The ones that can be purchased pre built around here are expensive and poorly constructed. They utilize 2x3 studs 24”oc and masonite siding with the cheapest three tab shingles a guy can find.
You may be able to put some guys to work prefabbing walls and put your own kit together.
We have done a few storage/well buildings and we try to incorporate hidden storage in the ceiling joists for rifles. The walls and ceiling get osb sheeting on the inside which gets screwed down. The attic floor also has a layer of osb or plywood to create the hidden storage in the ceiling. These screws can be removed in different places to reveal canned food storage and ammo stockpiles. The 3 1/2” cavity can have pine dividers installed so almost anything a guy might want to hide can be stacked.
We have sat down with more than one homeowner and strongly suggested they leave their home for the storage building in the event of a tornado. These homes where we recommended this were framed terribly poorly. The walls had cracks you could fit your fingers into and swayed in the wind.
These small buildings can be made SUPER strong. When we do a reinforced storage building it gets extra concrete anchors during the pour. Then the base plate is anchored more with additional wedge anchors. All plywood sheeting must grab the bottom plate and both top plates then it is best to go with structural soffit.  The inside gets 3/4” plywood. The outside gets hardi and under that 5/8” plywood. The plywood layers stop projectiles like flying studs better than osb. This plywood sandwich can be insulated or foamed inside. Some have us fill the cavity with sand or maximizer in lifts. The sand filled cavity is better with a thicker wall.  Go 2x6 or 2x8. This will stop or slow down bullets.

Here is my 12x14 with 4x8 porch and hidden storage. The window looks like a weak link but there is a 3/4” layer of plywood that slips into slots and is pinned in. It is then painted black to look dark inside. The door locks are anchored into studs and there are metal plates slotted into the studding. I plan to epoxy fill the door and add timbers that also prevent the door from being kicked in.

[Flyin6]

That is Great!
I love all the ideas you just posted there boss
I think I may just adopt a few of those for myself...OSB on the inside of the studs with sand filled voids...Now that is one clever idea!
I wasn't making my shed a fighting position or safe room or anything like that, just something to keep my tractor in and get the petroleum products and paints out of the shed to free up needed work space. I am building larger things all the time in the shed, then transporting those pieces to the job/assembly site. As such I need room to build wall sections and have room to walk around and still operate the various tools at the work stations in the shop.

Anyway, thanks for sharing those grand ideas...Sand in walls, who'd of thunk it!

[JR]

A 2x6 sand filled would be a great barrier when they incoming. Any issue with rotting or as long as its weather tight and dry you are good.

[Flyin6]

A 2x6 sand filled would be a great barrier when they incoming. Any issue with rotting or as long as its weather tight and dry you are good.

My head started spinning as soon as I read that

Take sand and mix with some portland. Just enough to make it sticky

Reason?

When taking fire, bullet impacts would chew the smart panel apart PDQ, and if sand filled, your protection would be getting closer to the ground all the time. But with layers of portland it just might stay in place better when the wood gets missing... ;-)

[stlaser]

Those Amish are pretty highly paid folks! What a deal! Most of them are also tax exempt and they never spend a day of their lives serving their nation in its military...Pretty cool deal wouldn't you say?

They’re not tax exempt, that is a misconception. They don’t pay SS, or the Medicaid etc. but then again they don’t collect either. They used to come into my wife’s ER’s, they always paid cash and received a 50% discount just like anyone else paying in cash upfront. I think they bypass unemployment possibly but again don’t collect. They do pay sales tax, estate taxes, property taxes, state / fed taxes & in many cases into a local community fund as well. I know all of this because my wife has Amish in the family, her dad was Amish until he left the church at 15.......

As for military service, nope they don’t do that. However, neither did I so guess we’re the same. There is also a misconception they won’t fight etc, not true. Most generally they try not to fight but they will stand their ground push come to shove.

[TexasRedNeck]

Don, check out the book I sent you if you want to talk about ballistic resistance.  gravel between the walls.  Sand will not do it.

Here is a video of a guy testing Skousen's gravel filled wall.  He even sounds like he's from the tuck.

https://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/gravel-wall-bulletproofing-test/

It takes more sand than you can get between studs to stop a round

[wyorunner]

Not to junk up a shed build further but I always wondered how well those styrofoam walls with concrete in the center would hold up. Particularly if you stuccoed the outside! I mean up north most use the 6,8 or 10” concrete. I’d like to think even 6” would withstand a significant amount of tornado projectiles and lead/copper projectiles alike.... maybe I need to test this.


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[Flyin6]

Yea, Thinking about it, and remembering what bullets would get through overseas, I started to think that the sand filled walls might have another benefit...Stability. I mean, a shed with the lower half of the walls being sand filled would be pretty solid and stable in high winds, or possibly even in a tornado.

I think I just may do something like that. Seems like a great idea so far.

[Bigdave_185]

What if you poured the gravel in and the sand in to fill the void?

What type of R value do you think? Better or worse


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[Jared Herzog]

I do not know how much sand it takes to stop the different bullets. I know they penetrate further than i would have guessed. Sand is easy to dry out and pour down a wall. I imagine with roving bands looting they will more likely be equipped with smaller weapons like handguns and 22 type findings. I hope a strong building with hidden storage has them moving on to easier targets. I would not want to be pinned down in a small building taking fire for any amount of time. I like hiding stuff everywhere. A home is more likely to be burned to the ground. Or at least burned first.
I am liking plywood more than osb currently. A test is hit osb with a hammer as hard as you can and watch the entire hammer and part of the handle go in. Now beat the plywood with a much larger hammer many many more times and all you get is a dent. I would hope this would stop more flying debris better.
I like the suggestion of gravel. It can be installed easily up to 4’ where the plywood seam is. From there finish it off with sand through a hole drilled in the top plate using a funnel. Around here we have cheap decomposed granite also.
At some point switching to 8”x8”x16” cinder blocks with rebar doubled up every lift and rebar in every tube filled 100% with maximizer gets stronger and affordable. It will not rot or burn. Then stucco the outside.

[Flyin6]

Today I prepped the doors for, and mounted the internal locking mechanisms which are uber simple sliding bolts

To secure the main door, I am using 6" slides with 1/2" steel sliding bolts. These will mount onto the top and bottom edge of the doors and slide into the floor and the structure above the door.

The secondary door will have two sliders as well, albeit 5" X 1/2" and will slide to and capture the adjacent door.

The concept of the operation here is to lock down the door from the inside, exit through the service door then lock it with a deadbolt and a standard door lock

On the outside of the big doors there will also be a massive sliding latch assembly with the option to padlock as well

[Flyin6]

Door without any latches or additional framing

[Flyin6]

I needed to build up the thickness of the corners to flush out the area with the frame, so I added in a section of 3/8" plywood, and another 2 X 4 section. Those are all screwed and liberally glued into place

[Flyin6]

Then the latches simply attach with some big screws into predrilled holes

[Flyin6]

Then the secondary door latches were screwed into place, completing the inner door security system

[Flyin6]

I started the day with only four wall sections remaining to be built. After a couple hours, I had two more built...Only two more, then its time to paint the wall panels and trim out the doors

[TexasRedNeck]

Looking good Don.


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[Flyin6]

With rain all day tomorrow, I'll make a run to HD or Slowes to get the paint.

After painting, next is to tear down the panel sections and load them onto the trailer for transport down farmside.

After the shop is cleared out, the roof truss/rafters are next along with the two end pieces which will look like an elongated triangle.

I had originally planned to build the thing using a 6/12 pitch, but i got to thinking...

So assume I attach 2X6 joists to the walls at the seven foot mark. I'd have 5.5" of wall on top of the floor, then the plate, 1.5", then another 3 feet height in the center for a total of 3'7" to throw things.

That is a tad bit cramped

an 8/12 pitch with four feet of space below the eve would give me 4'7" which is starting to be useful...

anyone up for a 10/12 roof???, and dropping the floor down to say 6'4" (I am 6'3")

[Flyin6]

And no, I will not do a gambrel roof. I don't like that look at all.

[Jared Herzog]

I store a ton of stuff in my attic in the storage building. I have a 6/12. An 8/12 would be better. I will pm you my number for 20% off behr paints and stains.

[Flyin6]

I store a ton of stuff in my attic in the storage building. I have a 6/12. An 8/12 would be better. I will pm you my number for 20% off behr paints and stains.

Thanks!

Now what about a 8/12 with a shed dormer???...

One thing I am always seeming to think about is creating cool spaces for the ever increasing number of little people these girls of mine seem to be creating.

They already know "poppy" is always up for getting them into trouble or having some fun down at the farm...

[JR]

Sounds like a good plan. More room is always better.

Heck, I thought you would make the door really secure like using a big bar across both doors like the did in castles.

[TexasRedNeck]

might was well go 12/12.  Just keep in mind that you need structural ridge beam or collar ties or something to keep the walls from spreading from the roof load pushing the walls out.

[Wilbur]

Looks good Don. Good to get more storage for sure.

The Dad of a buddy of mine built his own place when he got back from WWII. He was a gunsmith and the first floor was concrete block foundation. He cut a couple of grooves at the top of some of the blocks and every night his change was sorted and put into them. My buddy had no idea until his Dad took him in there when he was getting ready to move- he had a small cold chisel and hammer, knocked out a couple of holes on the bottom blocks and the change just started flowing out- quarters in a couple, nickels in another, dimes, etc...all presorted. He said they were bagging it for a long time. Lots of places to hide stuff in concrete block if it's planned for.

[stlaser]

Sounds like a good plan. More room is always better.

Heck, I thought you would make the door really secure like using a big bar across both doors like the did in castles.

I questioned why he locked one door on the inside top & bottom and not the other one? A large bar is a great idea too.

[Flyin6]

might was well go 12/12.  Just keep in mind that you need structural ridge beam or collar ties or something to keep the walls from spreading from the roof load pushing the walls out.

Will have a second floor about at the top of the walls, and i always include a plywood collar tie sort of thing to hold it all together anyway.

Maybe a 12/12 is in the works...

[Flyin6]

Sounds like a good plan. More room is always better.

Heck, I thought you would make the door really secure like using a big bar across both doors like the did in castles.

I questioned why he locked one door on the inside top & bottom and not the other one? A large bar is a great idea too.

Main door has exterior trim board which completely captures the second door. Lateral latches are all that is needed. It's the way the main shed is secured

Keep questioning...The answer is out there...

[Flyin6]

OK, today was an ambitious one. Goal was to finish building the wall panels, then paint all four walls and the doors.

I can say with tired knees, I stand (sit) victorious!

[Flyin6]

Before going further, I'd like to take a moment to thank Jared H for allowing me to use his builders discount at the HD. Between his 20% and my 10% Military discount I walked out of there with 4 gallons of paint, a really good brush, some tape and spouts and a $15 PVC "T" all for $212 including tax!

Thank you sir!

So the color scheme continues unabated from the last couple builds. We have a dirty red base with a hunter green flat for the trim, and something akin to Oxford Brown for the doors, which I will also use for the rain gutter back splash and a couple other places to add continuity. THe service doors in the main shed will also adopt that brown color and to top it off, I will use the similar in color rain gutters and down spouts.

[Flyin6]

In this picture, You can see the final wall panel completed, now 13 total

[Flyin6]

This portable HVLP sprayer has worked fine for me in the past, and after a through precleaning prior to (and after) painting it laid down some good coats of that rusty red.

[Flyin6]

The purdy stuff in the can:

[Flyin6]

And now sprayed all over creation:

[Flyin6]

The color shows differently when dried. It gets down right pretty when all the gloss from being wet is gone.

And, for the record, here is the actual color for me to reference should I ever need to do this again.

[Flyin6]

Not all of the paint got applied to the wall panels. THe shoes took a beating, but my glove covered hands did very well

[Flyin6]

And of course, gotta give this one a single thumbs in the climb attitude!

[Jared Herzog]

Looks great.

[Flyin6]

Looks great.

J-Do you know that paint? The girlies who sold me to it said it had some sort of lifetime warranty...Whateva... But in real world terms, what do you think of it, assuming you have used it on jobs before?

[Jared Herzog]

That is there best paint. I usually buy the grade below it. The paint you got has properties that resist fading for a very long time. It also repels stains and dust so less sticks to the paint and the color is “high definition” what ever that means.
The paint you got has excellent adhesion and expands and contracts to resist cracking which allows water to get in under the paint which is bad. It also has built in primer and is a one coat paint. I always do two coats but that paint can be done and look great with one thorough pass.
Most repaints we do are going over other workers contractor paints which means the cheapest a guy can get to bid a job and then add a quart of water to every gallon to cut it and make it go further. These require almost stripping with a pressure washer. Otherwise the best paint in the world is only as good as the layer under it. So if the first cheap layer peals then the expensive stuff comes off with it.
You did good with your selection.

[BobbyB]

Getting awfully fancy with that smart watch. 

[Sammconn]

Getting awfully fancy with that smart watch. 

I too noticed the watch change, and then wearing while painting...maybe chief want the old one back...

[Flyin6]

Getting awfully fancy with that smart watch. 

I too noticed the watch change, and then wearing while painting...maybe chief want the old one back...

I, ah, ran over the last one.
Was changing a hydraulic line on the tractor, so i took the watch off and laid it on the front tractor tire.

Note to self: Check the tires and area around the tractor when you fire it up before you drive away...Just in case you set a watch or a camera on the tire...
Oh, same rule applies to the truck as well.

It survived, but is sort of scratched up
Sales guy talked me into this Apple watch/phone.

Saved my bacon a time or two when my spirit is with me, but my knees aren't. Phone is ringin' in the other room and my ROA (Rate of acceleration) is not what it needs to be to make it before the last ring...

I just tap the screen a few dozen times and sometimes the phone becomes a pee-poor phone which this helicopter pilot with ears operatin' at about 50% can still get bits and pieces of the call.

[Flyin6]

That is there best paint. I usually buy the grade below it. The paint you got has properties that resist fading for a very long time. It also repels stains and dust so less sticks to the paint and the color is “high definition” what ever that means.
The paint you got has excellent adhesion and expands and contracts to resist cracking which allows water to get in under the paint which is bad. It also has built in primer and is a one coat paint. I always do two coats but that paint can be done and look great with one thorough pass.
Most repaints we do are going over other workers contractor paints which means the cheapest a guy can get to bid a job and then add a quart of water to every gallon to cut it and make it go further. These require almost stripping with a pressure washer. Otherwise the best paint in the world is only as good as the layer under it. So if the first cheap layer peals then the expensive stuff comes off with it.
You did good with your selection.

Yea, have to agree, something different about this paint.

Vibrant color to be sure.

So same color on the Privy, but I painted that with Sherwin Williams. This Behr stuff is almost "Alive" I mean, it really jumps out at you. It is very rich.

I sprayed down two coats on everything. Very thick, very covering, very bright, I like that stuff.

[BobbyB]

Getting awfully fancy with that smart watch. 

I too noticed the watch change, and then wearing while painting...maybe chief want the old one back...

I, ah, ran over the last one.
Was changing a hydraulic line on the tractor, so i took the watch off and laid it on the front tractor tire.

Note to self: Check the tires and area around the tractor when you fire it up before you drive away...Just in case you set a watch or a camera on the tire...
Oh, same rule applies to the truck as well.

It survived, but is sort of scratched up
Sales guy talked me into this Apple watch/phone.

Saved my bacon a time or two when my spirit is with me, but my knees aren't. Phone is ringin' in the other room and my ROA (Rate of acceleration) is not what it needs to be to make it before the last ring...

I just tap the screen a few dozen times and sometimes the phone becomes a pee-poor phone which this helicopter pilot with ears operatin' at about 50% can still get bits and pieces of the call.

Going to have to get yourself a Suunto or GShock.

[Flyin6]

Getting awfully fancy with that smart watch. 

I too noticed the watch change, and then wearing while painting...maybe chief want the old one back...

I, ah, ran over the last one.
Was changing a hydraulic line on the tractor, so i took the watch off and laid it on the front tractor tire.

Note to self: Check the tires and area around the tractor when you fire it up before you drive away...Just in case you set a watch or a camera on the tire...
Oh, same rule applies to the truck as well.

It survived, but is sort of scratched up
Sales guy talked me into this Apple watch/phone.

Saved my bacon a time or two when my spirit is with me, but my knees aren't. Phone is ringin' in the other room and my ROA (Rate of acceleration) is not what it needs to be to make it before the last ring...

I just tap the screen a few dozen times and sometimes the phone becomes a pee-poor phone which this helicopter pilot with ears operatin' at about 50% can still get bits and pieces of the call.

Going to have to get yourself a Suunto or GShock.

Bobby, after buying Spud, I don't have enough left over to pay attention!

[Flyin6]

OK, givin the project a few more hours today. Except for sore knees/feet/back/etc. this is fun!

Pics here are P + 24 so we can look at the color once dried and get a feel for overall initial paint performance. It was not totally cured in a few spots, but I was fairly generous with the application of the stuff. The color, though, shown with various angles relative to the light source is everything I wanted and more.

[Flyin6]

So, we are at 36.5 hours invested so far, with a price so far of under $1,700

I screwed the window gingerly into place. My opening was almost plumb, but some minor adjustments got the window in there in the correct position

[Flyin6]

Then I created the four trim pieces for the outside presentation

I just searched and found my artsy-fartsy side and used it just long enough to get something that looked other than trim work at the O-K Corral

[Flyin6]

Must have been thinkin' about a bird or something when I sketched up that thing^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Then I laid down two coats of the green Behr premium paint