Just to add to this don't get stuck with thinking all recon must be done in the air. If that wind is howling and its pitch black what are you going to see?

Now that cameras with IR are about everywhere, why not put one on an solid little 4x4 truck. There are RC cars and trucks that will rival anything real now, plus they are quiet and can sit and watch for a long time when an aircraft can't.

 

Great find, but I think it is a little pricey, but then again it is all in one package.

There are so many of these out there now finding one is not the issue. Finding one to do what you want for a reasonable price will.

I was at Frys a couple days ago and they are all over. I think finding one with the GPS return features wanted and 5.8 ghz camera for a fair price will be the catch. I think the $1000 price is a good target, not the $3500 for this one.

Another thing is parts. From what I saw there everything is over the counter (futaba radio-3 cell lipo packs-charger) with a fancy name all packaged up. I am doing research on this ad have a large show to attend in Jan that I sure will yield a lot of info. I work for the flying venue there (volunteer) and get to see cutting edge things up close, even hands on.

I have been looking at flag poles to and think I can power raise/lower with air, time will tell soon.

Thats another reason I got the Keltec 2000, takes glock mags!!

Lasers can do many things, but I don't like lights much. I do own a few with lasers but more for shotguns. If its in the light, it will get hit.

As for lights, not for home defense. What they do is tell someone where you are. Leave the lights off, you know your home, they don't.

Great work Don, again what book is that you got.

When doing some tranny work on my Dmax I used some foil cooking tubs from the dollar store for drain pans, soaking clutch packs and such. Nice and then you throw them away.

Delete, did I hear delete,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ;D

Oh, ah, Welcome!!!!!!!!!!

I will look into that. Very little rot left really but why not do it right.

That's nice!

Yup, mine is parked next to my garage that is 2 story. I plan on building something very similar soon.

I had gone over the roof a few times and it looked pretty good. Did the scrub filled a few seams on the edges that had lifted and treated it.

The tears I believe were from my kids being up there. It has a ladder in the front (covered now) and the kids thought it was a great way to get onto the house roof. Only about a 2 foot step.

The 3-4 tears were under 1 inch each all in one area about 6 ft from where the kids would jump. I can't say they did but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

As long as your roof is white it is doing its job. When you see grey patches it is beginning to wear. Covers or tarps are great, but not if they rub on the roof.

It is nice out now and I am going to open it up and start the repairs, will post a few more pics.

Well, not a vehicle but thought I would throw this in here since it comes to Maintenance.

I have a nice 2005 Eclipse 23ft (measures 24?) Toy Hauler that I got for a song a few years back. It was in great shape, even the roof which is EDM rubber an industry standard. They are supposed to last around 10 years with good maitenance which really just means keep it clean, wipe preservative on it and don't abuse it. Keeping it covered or parking indoors is a big plus. The roofs "wear or age" by the surface oxidizing to a fine powder over the years. Rub your hand over it and you will see!

Anyway mine is almost 10 years old and looked good last year I was up there to wipe it down and treat it. Then a few months ago I saw a mushroom growing both inside and outside on the right side above the awning. So I knocked it off and thought some water got in where the screw are for the awning. Saw nothing and promptly forgot about it. So here it is months later and I notice the wall is a little soft inside the electric bunk beds while I'm storing up some food and watching a movie with the kids (12 year old daughter had 10 girls over for her birthday and we needed out!!)

OK, so I remember the issue with the mushroom and check it out the next day and find 3-4 tears on the edge less than a 1/2 long and it is mushy on the edge. So out comes the knife and I cut the roof just a little in from the edge and find a MESS!!!!!!!!!

The OSB is soft or rotten for about 3 ft going in around 3 inches. SO out comes everything I can get at and leave her open to dry out. I find there are 2 crossmembers there which are a little rotten on the end. As I am cleaning it up I am figuring how to address this damage and keep the walk on roof solid.

It took 2 days of on-off cleaning-cutting and vacuuming until I got it to where I am happy. This also allowed it to dry out well since we were having 80f days while keeping it covered at night. Naturally we got rain just as I was ready to start the repair so it got covered in plastic and taped off for a couple days.

The repair will consist of replacing the OSB cut out now to 4"x48" and adding a 2x2 replacing the 1x2 edging that was stock. That will fill the end of the trusses that were trimmed off. I will layer 6oz FG cloth using epoxy resin (doesn't crack like polyester resin). The resin will act like a great glue and the cloth will add the strength lost on the trusses. Inside I braced the ceiling during the repair to keep things fairly level.

Over this area I will use a small EDM patch that overlaps at least 1 inch on the top and will go under the aluminum drip edge like the original roof. Then I will seal the edges with EDM sealant. Then I will recoat the entire roof that is supposed to give another 10 year life. 

I am impressed Don. Tearing into that puppy good!

I do question painting before being done though as you are going to get it pretty messed up putting it together and AT fluid is known for removing paint.

Which manual is that? I did a quick search for Chrysler 47r without much luck. Oh, found a grid to. Just missed a new one for 60 but got a used one for 50 shipped.

Doing lots of research now. Spending $$ on good panels and cobbling the rest. My panel will have LCD readouts when the whole system is up, looking at the Morningstar MTTP controllers.
I am looking at running the pool heater off season and the AC when its hot. With what on the grid runs here it will pay for itself soon enough. Plus having that backup peace of mind.

The mono panels work well in shade, but not covered for sure.

My wireless router is mounted up high now, but will move it to the seconds floor and I have an extender for it.

I like your idea with solar panels and such Don. Looking at adding a couple to my trailer now and just got 2k watts in panels for a grid tie system out back for the pool and AC. Will post he progress as I setup.

...Shameless people!

Well, now that JR has broken the ice...One of you brave souls model the back as well...

Oh come on, I used the timer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,after I had some coffee.

Did I hear you made some great progress?

Quote from: Flyin6 on October 20, 2014, 07:21:06 AM

Quote from: Dustoff35 on October 19, 2014, 09:00:11 PM

I wonder if I can get a fumoto valve for the compressor...

It isn't a pressure valve I think.

As in the one on the oil pan of my Duramax, right?

I'd say don't use it...definitely not a pressure retention valve, although it might work for a time...

To replace the oil plug on the crankcase of the compressor.  It wouldn't be under any pressure.

That would work, but you only drain a couple times a year at most. As long as you can get to it why bother. Now an extension I can see as you never get that darn can under there in time

It is not so much the paint you get but the primer. There is the Fusion paints made for plastic that work OK.

Then you have Bulldog primer made to use with any paint.

You need to paint the muffler,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Just picked up the Walmart special for $50 and a roll of bags to try it out.

Another welcome, glad to see another left coaster who isn't lefty (honestly, there are more than many think)

JR

Well, maybe it was a little longer than that. I do have an older Lowes ballcap with them built in and we had them at work too.

As much as I love the high dollar lights of which I have several I have been getting some "ULTRAFIRE" cree lights off ebay for some time now and they just seem to get better.

The ones I am using are rated at 300-500 lumen normally and one has a larger reflector that is rated at 1000, but I don't really see the diff. These run about $20 on ebay, use a single 3.7v 18650 Lithium battery. I have taken these camping several times and get about 2 hours from them on high. Most have 3 settings, high, low and strobe. Now the nice thing is many come with 2 batteries and a charger (110v) The batteries I get are rated at 5300ma and I keep several extra in the truck and they come with a small case that holds 2.

As for the light they put out, I would rate them with anything on the high end. Easily lighting up trees 500ft away.

There is also this nice little one called the S10. Its a little pricier at around $30, but had to try it. It uses a single CR123 cell and the light output is great. I think it is rated at 150 lumens. Obviously not on par with the Ultrafires but it does great when its dark, has 3 settings, a pocket clip and a magnet on the back that holds it solid.

Now put these all together with the Intellicharger I4 that sells for around $20-30 and you have a nice combo you can keep with you and charger on 12v DC and 110AC. Here is the 4 cell version charging 2 AA Nimh, 1 CR123 Lithium and a 18650 Lithium all at the same time. I keep the 2 cell in my truck.

The light picture is not the best at just 5 ft, but it was during the day on a white wall. Also sorry for the charger backdrop, it was handy vs all the wrenches with the drawer open.

I remember when you were trying to get that "toy" out of the garage during your builds. At least you got some $$ back from it.

I am off to do 4 pallets of pavers next to the pool. Hopefully the burb can get some work done on it at night. retired and less time!

I have been looking at both the Nato and the Israeli masks on fleebay.

What do you think?

Don't assume you are a crack shot. We all need to practice.

Practice on a silhouette, not a round target and always aim for center mass to stop the threat.

YOU NEVER FIRE ONE SHOT OR TRY TO "WOUND" YOUR TARGET.

Practice shooting as the gun is drawn (watch your hands), coming up and on target with sights. You may not get to "take aim".

I once got berated for firing 8 rounds at a guy with a shotgun during a simunitions class. I said the guy hadn't hit the ground yet so I kept shooting, they said OK,,,,,,,,,,,

Practice with your "off hand", you never know when you will need it.

Now, most of this is for a person who has never had formal training, not us DOTs.

That is sure pretty, did you inspect the inside at all?

I loaded a DB meter APP on my phone. My comp was 95 DB when overdriven and 92 DB when I replaced the motor pulley bringing it back into specs RPM. Still way to load for me. 

Man, just saw this and so much of it hit home. Wish I could add anything to it and hope I never have to.

Don knows and I think a few of you know, I just retired after 25 years being a Deputy Sheriff. 2 years working inside Jails and 23 on the street.