AEV Gladiator Rubicon

[Flyin6]

Many Lifo batteries have a BCM, which saves the battery from over charging and discharging, plus you get the weight savings you want. Was you other battery a Lipo or Lifo with BCM?

Lithium iron chemistry (Non-explosive) and I am not sure what if any BCM it had internal to it.

[JR]

Better ones are now Lithium Phosphate. Just as light, no fire issues.

Batteries at the ridge are Lifo. Been charging em on a cheapo 12v-30amp controller. 2x12v x 100 watt panels. So far so good in heat and cold.

[Flyin6]

Better ones are now Lithium Phosphate. Just as light, no fire issues.

Batteries at the ridge are Lifo. Been charging em on a cheapo 12v-30amp controller. 2x12v x 100-watt panels. So far so good in heat and cold.

Yes, Lithium Iron Phosphate. That's what this battery I had was. The issue was either some internal failure of the battery, some cell perhaps, or it may not have had a BCM unit. I am not sure Braille actually builds the batteries with an internal BCM.
Any spike in voltage is potentially damaging to any lithium battery without some circuit breaker sort of mechanism that intercepts then prevents the surge.

Edit: I may be behind the times. LiFePo is what I had, but doing a quick search yielded this:

A lithium polymer battery, or more correctly lithium-ion polymer battery (abbreviated as LiPo, LIP, Li-poly, lithium-poly and others), is a rechargeable battery of lithium-ion technology using a polymer electrolyte instead of a liquid electrolyte. High conductivity semisolid (gel) polymers form this electrolyte. These batteries provide higher specific energy than other lithium battery types and are used in applications where weight is a critical feature, such as mobile devices, radio-controlled aircraft and some electric vehicles.[2]

[JR]

Make sure you get a lithium with a BCM!!

Little off topic, but I have a history with lithium batteries.

Yes, we use LIPOs in RC planes, have for about 20 years now. In fact I think I flew the first heli with a commercial built battery (San Diego electric funfly with a Thunder Power 3s4p)

Lipos has really progressed since then as we had to parallel the packs to get the amperage from them, new batteries are way better so just series is needed. Rated as "C" for discharge based off capacity. 20C is very common now, so a 2000ma battery can put out 40 amps. We use fast chargers at the field and balance them when a fast charge is not needed. They have no BMS, but the speed controllers have a low voltage cutoff and max amp draw, but several HP is very easy now (1hp=746 watts). For longevity the need to stored at about 3.7v per cell.

2 issues is the fire hazard and over discharge. If punchered or ovecharged they burn like a book of matches, over discharged and they swell up and never really work as well.

I left a pack charging unattended once and it overcharged, burst into flames and I burned my garage down about 90%. It was traced to a bad charger (german made) and an owner who charged a pack unattended on flamable surface (what a dumbcrap) I was part of the fire investigation by the way.

Here is the full thread on the fire; https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?463115-Be-Carefull%21%21

[Flyin6]

I reinstalled the factory AGM battery for now. The Jeep is back to starting normally.

I have noted the alternator will charge the battery anywhere from 13.7 volts, up to 14.5 volts. That has me wondering if the charge rate or voltage is too much for the LIPO battery???

Speaking of which, The lithium battery sat for a week uncharged. I pulled it and just for grins, placed the Braille charger on it. Before it would not charge the battery fully. After all night of charging it would not turn over the engine! Now for some reason, it shows to be fully charged! Like, as in, nothing wrong here...???

Not going to reinstall it until (if) I get some good answers as to why it failed twice in the first place.

[Flyin6]

Another fuel mileage check.

17.87 mpg

[Bigdave_185]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CuM-kZAJtsY/?igshid=YmM0MjE2YWMzOA==


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[Flyin6]

Going to be bouncing around a bit from here on out. I am now building out the JT for an overland vehicle with the addition of a tent, rack and loads of stuff. That thread is here:

http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=5332.0

[Flyin6]

A few hours of work (I work slowly) and the new heavier-duty springs are installed.

The truck sits a bit taller than it did before the installation, but the weight it is about to have added will put things right back where they were I think

[Flyin6]

Bed rack installed:

[Flyin6]

The IKamper 2.0 sky camp 4-person tent is setting there but not bolted in yet:

[JR]

Looks like a Kali rig now. They are verywhere!

[Flyin6]

Looks like a Kali rig now. They are verywhere!

I'll bet
You folks have outdoor adventure areas just about everywhere!

[Bigdave_185]

Where is the snorkel


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[Flyin6]

Where is the snorkel


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Dave, I don't have one (Yet)
two thoughts
It is not dusty enough to need one
And
Should I opt for a Hemi, the air intake is on the opposite side (I think)

[wyorunner]

Where is the snorkel


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Dave, I don't have one (Yet)
two thoughts
It is not dusty enough to need one
And
Should I opt for a Hemi, the air intake is on the opposite side (I think)

Then you just run dual snorkels! It’s a jeep, I’m sure there’s a kit for it

[Flyin6]

The IKamper roof top tent is now installed

[Flyin6]

The Jeep with the wee-wittle motor is running fine. With it back in the chock blocks following the 4000-mile adventure trip, I am mostly driving the Ram 3500. But it is not going without attention.

After returning, I addressed a couple of problems I encountered. First, I had trouble airing down the RR tire. I swapped out the valve and got some relief.

Learning from having to air up four big tires after a day of trail riding around 20 psi, I discovered a cool device that airs up/down all four tires at the same time. It is made by a company called "Speed Flate" and really works great!

https://www.speedflate.com/

I ordered the one with the orange-coiled, 4-tire system. It has a master open/close valve that allows one to bleed or inflate simultaneously.

Testing it with my 2-cylinder air pump, I could bleed the tires or inflate them quickly. Checking afterward showed all tires within 1-psi of the magic 37psi I use on the highway.

[Flyin6]

Next, with me now coming up on yet, another oil change I decided to replace the problematic oil cartridge filter system that comes stock on the Jeep 3.6 gas motor. The filter points upward and the system does not have an anti-drain back valve. So after approximately 30 minutes, the filter and oil cooler housing assembly drains completely into the oil pan and you are rewarded with a dry start the next time you take off for a Big Mac.

The new system replaces that with a system with an anti-drain back valve and a normal cartridge-type filter.

That is on order.

Next, I see through research that the little V6 likes to suck oil up into the intake manifold. So, I ordered a canister oil vent tank to resolve and keep the intake system clean. Both of those items will be going on in a week or so.

Looking down the road, I am looking at chopping off the front frame extensions, removing the rear tow bar/hitch assembly, and replacing the electric side steps with some HD sliders.

[JR]

That filter system sounds way better than stock.

Air system, "made with love in Ca"?

[Flyin6]

Getting on with the project, next, I wanted to cure a design error in the V6 Pentastar engine

The factory oil filter configuration which sits on top of the engine will drain its oil back into the pan after 20-30 minutes causing the engine to be dry-started many times during its lifespan.

Baxter Performance offers a device that replaces the oil filter with an assembly that allows for the installation of a standard cartridge filter with an anti-drain back valve that keeps the filter charged so no more dry-starts.

[Flyin6]

I started by draining the oil in the engine which remains from the trip out west. Even though the oil-life indicator showed it to be at 51% life remaining, it came out coal-black...hmmmm!

In went 5 quarts of Castrol GTX full synthetic 0W-20

[Flyin6]

Ya, I know, dirty engine!!! Not in keeping with the "Don Standard."

So there is a wee bit of trickiness with the installation, but it is easy.

Now I am protected against that design problem

So on to addressing another design error with the Pentastar engine

[Flyin6]

Next, I wanted to fix another problem, and that is the fact that this engine likes to draw oil in from the PVC into the intact tract where it is known to foul intake valves.

Enter a Morimoto Catch can. Ya a bit pricey, but engineered perfectly for an easy 1-hour install that fit great.

[Flyin6]

I began with removing the well-designed factory PVC line which will not be reused.

[Flyin6]

The Morimoto catch can is a machined aluminum canister that is over the top for a mere catch can. The bracket fits into the fender bolts and again, is a perfect fit.

[Flyin6]

It comes with a drain hose and a petcock at the bottom. The kit even provided a clamp that captures the hose and secures it to an unused body stud

[Flyin6]

While I on the underside, I note that the undercarriage is holding up well to off-road sessions. This has not been submerged several times and has been in and out of rock fields and muddy bogs.

I did find one control arm end lock nut backed off which I locktited and re-secured.

[Flyin6]

Now having owned this cool Jeep Gladiator for a year, I can say that despite its little engine I really love the thing. It has never failed me and has crawled up some amazing stuff. I have not found the limits of this thing, which, due to my style of driving, I will likely never find. It is really one well-designed vehicle.

Here is the finish of the install:

[JR]

Cool upgrades, that is a funky place for a filter.

[Flyin6]

Cool upgrades, that is a funky place for a filter.

The factory one is about 2" lower but in the same place...

[TexasRedNeck]

That may have been a solution in search of a problem.  Mercedes Benz has used that top engine cartridge design for decades without issue.

It sure made oil changes easier (the normal kind).

A top sider oil vacuum and a probe to insert in the dipstick and you changed the oil without ever getting underneath or really getting dirty.

The catch can is cool.  I may put one in the denali since its DI there is nothing to clean the backside of the intake valve.


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[Flyin6]

That may have been a solution in search of a problem.  Mercedes Benz has used that top engine cartridge design for decades without issue.

It sure made oil changes easier (the normal kind).

A top sider oil vacuum and a probe to insert in the dipstick and you changed the oil without ever getting underneath or really getting dirty.

The catch can is cool.  I may put one in the denali since its DI there is nothing to clean the backside of the intake valve.


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May not be apples to apples. The Mopar design DOES NOT contain an anti-drain-back issue. I have to think that is an oversight. Coupled with the fact that the Pentastar, now something like 13 million strong suffers from camshaft/rocker arm failures due to galling. Seems reasonable to assume a constant supply of oil may prevent that.
Does the Merc design contain an anti-drainback feature? I would certainly hope so.

[Flyin6]

Today, I cleaned it all up, including washing (soap and water) under the hood and then the whole exterior. I followed that with another coat of ceramic wax which left it positively glowing.

I ordered and received some butyl rubber tape, so I removed all the gorilla tape from the top of the IKamper, and then cleaned the surface with thinner. The butyl tape made for a much more positive connection I feel. This should be the last of my problems with the panel coming loose.

Cleaning the motor was in prep for an upcoming project. I noted a lot of dust on the motor and in the air filter system. Running the intake system low like Jeep keeps it in the dust zone, so I have decided to install a snorkel system.

I already ordered it and the thing is sitting here in a huge box. I will be using the Flowmaster system, the best/most cost-effective system out there. I got the snorkel, a new air box with a huge filter, and a new air inlet tube. The new tube is 4" in diameter vs the 3" in diameter for the stocker. All this will not only help with the dust issue but make way for a bigger TB and some intake manifold porting which I may be doing around mid-winter.

I figure someone will crack the code to program our newer computers soon. I also know tuners were getting big torque gains, like over 50 on the same old computer engine. Anyway, I will be getting into this pdq.

[Flyin6]

Snapped a pic of the solar panel now held down by the Butyl rubber tape.

It looks much better now and the tape is not lifting at all in 24 hours.

[Flyin6]

And right here is the new snorkel that should be my next project, right after receiving the saw mill shipment and prepping for that assembly

[Flyin6]

Got started on the snorkel project today.

First thing you have to rip out the stick induction system, the whole thing!

[Flyin6]

The new snorkel kit is big! They give you everything you'll need.

[Flyin6]

I was pretty surprised to find some water in my air box, and the Jeep has been inside!

[Flyin6]

Engine bay ready to accept all sorts of new things.

[Flyin6]

They provide an air horn that fits inside a large air filter.

[Flyin6]

Next you rivet the grid onto the snorkel mouth, then connect the long inlet tube to the airbox.

[Flyin6]

Next you build up the new inlet tube which is a full inch larger in diameter than the factory one. New: 4", Stock: 3"

[Flyin6]

They pay alot of attention to details. Wherever one of their brackets attaches to the body, they provide a clear vinyl anti-chaff tape to prevent rubbing.

[Flyin6]

Then before you know it you drop the whole assembly in all at once, then connect the hoses, a fitting and the IAT sensor.

[Flyin6]

The good part comes tomorrow, and that is cutting the hood access. It seems easy looking at the vid, just requires patience, a steady hand and some constitution.

[JR]

I like the trim ring where the snorkle exits.

[Flyin6]

Let me finish this install.

Cutting that hole, which was about the only thing left to do took several hours. Essentially, you have to "sneak up" on the correct size. From wherever you start, I'm betting you have a half dozen or more cuts remaining and a goodly amount of filing as well.

I marked the approximate position, then taped the business up.

[Flyin6]

Taped it up, marked it, then checked it a couple of times, then set up for the cut.

[Flyin6]

The hood is made out of aluminum (Which is really cool!) and cuts differently than steel. I had to use a lot of WD-40