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Messages - moto123
1
« on: December 06, 2019, 09:58:51 PM »
Thanks for all the thoughts everyone! Thats a good point to ask how many rounds it has seen. I would guess not a ton, his sister says its been on display in his livingroom ever since it was built. She is actually the one we know well. I have not seen or fired the gun yet. But thats a good thought to try it.
He said the barrel is a RRA varmint barrel if that makes sense? Wish i knew more about these. But it looks cool and matches my other 308's so no new ammo to stock. If it helps out their family to sell it I would like too.
2
« on: December 06, 2019, 06:05:30 PM »
3
« on: December 06, 2019, 06:03:53 PM »
An acquaintance has a collection larger than he needs, and sounds like he needs money for something else. He built this up, claims to have spent $2700. He figures it's probably worth $2000 but will let it go for $1200. It's really pretty, so I am considering buying it. Just wanted to confirm y'all think it's a fair deal. Aero Precision limited edition 76 upper and lower chambered in .308 mag pull grip and adjustable stock 26" stainless barrel CMC single stage flat trigger foregrip and bipod included Scope in the color pictures is included, 4x illuminated. 20 and 10 round mags 50-100 rounds goes with it https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ecddf20ijzsllq/IMG953216.jpg?dl=0
5
« on: August 08, 2019, 01:18:16 PM »
There it's done with room for more. ![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/d8116f79f8794574a9821e6c0effde27.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
When you leave things parked in tight like that in a barn for presumably a long time like over winter, do you do anything to try to keep mice from building nests or eating through wires, destroying seats, etc? I am finding them starting to live in my equipment that doesn't move often.
6
« on: July 10, 2019, 03:12:18 PM »
Have you tested loading the skidsteer in the trailer yet? I want to hear how it goes. We actually just bought a 14k dump trailer last week. Mostly for moving around 80 loads of gravel for a new driveway. But also thinking it can haul our bobcat. For me the bobcat weighs 9,700 with the bucket. So the 14k is plenty.
But remember, the 14K includes the weight of the trailer which I'd bet is 45---low five-thousands. So at 5K for the trailer weight you'd have 9K of total weight you could carry...But you probably knew that. With my 16K trailer and a 11,500 Skid steer, I just squeaked by within 200 lab (I think) of MGW
Our 14k GVWR trailer is rated at 10,400 lbs of cargo. It weighs 3,600 lbs. So I have 700 lbs extra capacity if needed for a set of forks or whatever. Your 16k trailer would be heavier, and your numbers confirm it weighs 4,300 lbs. Makes sense.
7
« on: July 10, 2019, 01:45:33 PM »
Have you tested loading the skidsteer in the trailer yet? I want to hear how it goes. We actually just bought a 14k dump trailer last week. Mostly for moving around 80 loads of gravel for a new driveway. But also thinking it can haul our bobcat. For me the bobcat weighs 9,700 with the bucket. So the 14k is plenty.
8
« on: June 10, 2019, 02:23:36 PM »
Gosh I remember eating those rectangular pizzas all the time. Were they good? No not really, but they were better than some of the other options. I was always happy to see them. I feel like I remember eating cheese only most of the time. But on occasion they would add pepperoni to them … that got exciting!
9
« on: November 21, 2018, 04:17:17 PM »
I only suggest because I want to see a build thread based on one, not because it would really work very well with this big of a truck. How about you drop in a cummins 2.8R crate motor and use a known good transmission that is designed to work with that engine. At least you would avoid the engine and transmission concerns. I think the rest of the truck works fine as it is. Still probably want to take off the expensive parts and return it to a cheaper (more teenage friendly) version.
10
« on: November 20, 2018, 02:00:32 PM »
So did square D just get shoved outside in the weeds to make room for this one?!? ![cry :cry:](http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/Smileys/default/cry.gif) It does look really good though. Kind of afraid to say I am also in the camp of "leave it alone". It's probably the best example left. But we all know you won't. So at least let us watch the train wreck!
11
« on: September 28, 2018, 02:20:58 PM »
Just to summarize for anyone following along. The comments made by DDS are definitely true, but in my opinion are not the ONLY solution. Which is why you are getting conflicting information. This is a good, better, best situation. In a commercial installation I agree with DDS, we would recommend oxygen barrier PEX. It is the best solution. It reduces the ingress of oxygen to the system prolonging the equipment life, primarily heat exchangers and pumps. Excess oxygen flowing in a system can cause cavitation on the pump impeller, which will wear out faster. The bacteria growth, while potentially an issue, I have not seen become a problem that can't be handled by a good water treatment plan. So I am less concerned about that. If you don't maintain the water, then yes bad things can happen. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the good solution if you will, is a completely open hydronic system. Historically this used to be common before hydro-pneumatic tanks existed. There is simply a large tank at the top of the system that is kept pressurized either by gravity (located above the rest of the system) or by air pressure from an air compressor. The tank is half full of boiler water, half air. This does work, is simple to understand, and is cheap, but eventually the air circulating in the system will wear out and corrode components. The in between, better solution, is what Don appears to be implementing. It sounds like he is going to pressurize the system with a hydro-pneumatic tank, use an air eliminator, chemical treatment designed around his boiler and heat exchangers, etc. But he is probably going to skip some of the last 5% of the details that would get the system to the best category, the oxygen barrier pipe being one of them.
So the commercial plumbing world should pick the best solution, the average joe DIY garage heating hydronic system can probably get away with the good solution, and everyone else is in the middle.
I do recommend you separate the HWS and HWR piping from touching each other and insulate them. Also there were concerns about the water temperature before and after the heat exchangers. The simple formula for the leaving water temperature, assuming you know the other factors, is below. BTUH is the BTU heat transfer of the heat exchanger per hour.
Entering water temperature - Leaving water temperature = BTUH / (GPM x 500)
12
« on: August 06, 2018, 02:12:35 PM »
It sounds like you kind of already know which way you are heading. But some additional comments for your financial calculations. Everything you need to operate day to day can get more expensive when living mobile. Food for example, in a home you can buy cheaper food in larger portions and cook. You can store food in jars or the freezer. In a camper you have no room to store the food so you have to buy smaller quantities at a greater price per item. Often due to the limited space you will likely eat out. So your food budget in my mind should be 50% more up to possibly even double for the living mobile scenario. Maintenance is another cost that may increase. With your own garage you can fix you own broken appliances, tools, cars, etc. Without the garage or tools you will need to hire someone to repair all those items. Again the cost can double.
I would also offer potentially a third option as a kind of middle ground. Sell your current house, live mobile for 6 months (or at least plan for that long) and then plan to buy a cheap house. Nothing fancy, but at least a permanent structure that doesn't need immediate repairs. If you sold the camper and possibly the truck, could you then spend the same amount monthly on a mortgage for a small house? I understand at first it will be painful since you are upside down in them. But in the long run putting that money into the house will build equity, paying off the vehicles will not. This would also be the time to evaluate bankruptcy. After you have already purchased a house that you can more easily pay for, you can stay there as long as you need to allow everything to settle out. It may not come to that, but at least you would be prepared.
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« on: July 26, 2018, 01:50:27 PM »
Interesting read. Doesn't surprise me that sports organizations would be primarily concerned with money. Everything is a business and everyone has an angle.
14
« on: July 17, 2018, 01:04:10 PM »
Meanwhile the state of Illinois is already so broke that many state funded construction projects were put on hold mid way through. I have heard of contractors that have been put out of business because the state never paid them for their work and they couldn't keep operating when the state owed them huge amounts of money.
15
« on: June 26, 2018, 01:56:08 PM »
Actually I think $500 a pair is a reasonable price compared to what is out there in the market. If you are able to pre-finish the boards and ship it in a box that just needs final assembly it would be pretty awesome.
Do the financials work to provide some extra income? Sort of. It helps that the wood is essentially free. But it really depends on how you value your time. How many hours would you have in each pair of chairs? Just for round numbers, if you have $100 in actual costs for each set (hardware set and fuel / maintenance of tools) and assume you spend 8 hours per set at $25 per hour. The cost of them is $300 each. "profit" $200 each. Now you sell 8 sets per month, it would initially appear you would pay yourself a salary of $1600 plus the business would profit $1600 each month. Seems awesome at first, but not so fast, if your total sales is $4000, you will end up paying significant taxes on that. Something on the order of 40% since you are the owner and employee of the business. Yes you can deduct actual expenses, but of the $100 per set that might only be $50 in usable receipts. So your deductions total $400 out of $4000, $3600 taxable income. 40% taxes is $1440. So of your $1600 in initial profit after paying yourself for hours worked, you lose $1440 to taxes resulting in $160 each month of true profit. The good news is that you can pay yourself a salary and end up with a little profit on top. But it's not a huge amount. Unless your time spent is essentially free. Then you are banking $160 in profit plus $1600 salary. You're not going to get rich doing that, but it's a nice way to keep money flowing in for farm expenses. If you are able to build each set of chairs in 4 hours it looks even better, getting paid $50 per hour.
16
« on: June 26, 2018, 01:24:24 PM »
So .... did you sit in it? My issue is typically the backrest is too short and my head lands halfway on the top board. Building from scratch it would be easy to lengthen those pieces by a couple inches. Just wasn't sure if that was necessary.
17
« on: June 19, 2018, 02:15:37 PM »
2007- and up, the 5.3 motor I believe. This is correct. 2007 to current 5.3L engines with AFM are not as bulletproof as the older version without AFM. 2007 particularly is a year to avoid. After that they implemented a few band aid solutions, but have not completely fixed the problem to date as far as I have seen. It typically fails outside of warranty, so they don't care. If you want to avoid AFM here are the options: 2006 or older 5.3L Any year 6.0L (found in the 2500 suburban only) At least I don't think they have added AFM yet to this engine, anyone else know about the newest ones? 2010 and older 6.2L (found in Yukon denali and escalade only)
18
« on: May 31, 2018, 02:39:09 PM »
I would 4th the green door trim. And tell me the downspout will get a nice finishing touch like this: https://goo.gl/images/MSeqPw
19
« on: May 09, 2018, 02:00:57 PM »
Around here the rust often kills the vehicle before the mileage. But that's not the point of the discussion.
Our family has seen a strange trend starting at 140k mileage. We've been forced to sell 3 half ton suburbans in a row that we weren't ready to get rid of yet simply because at that mileage the repair costs accelerated substantially. None were completely dead, but we didn't consider them fully reliable either. In other normal passenger vehicles we typically had sold them around 100k as the maintenance was increasing. And this isn't from deferred maintenance, I do everything mechanically on time. It is from increasing electrical system failures, computers, etc. Things that can't be maintained but do wear out. I am not going to keep something long enough to replace the entire wiring harness and all gauges, sensors, electrical items.
20
« on: April 09, 2018, 01:02:15 PM »
Would recommend avoiding the 5.3L engines from 2007 to current. The failure rate appears to be high. I think I already posted about this on here somewhere, but the active fuel management system has some design issues. 2006 and prior they were very reliable.
21
« on: March 21, 2018, 01:31:08 PM »
Sounds like a standard oil change.
22
« on: January 12, 2018, 01:35:02 PM »
They just built a brand new Sam's here about 3 years ago. Now it's closing. Tell me how that makes sense? What's worse is that it was always busy when we went there. Now Costco is planning to build a new store, I guess to pick up where Sam's left off. I am not going to complain though, we would prefer Costco. But it is a little bit further drive.
23
« on: December 16, 2017, 08:41:15 PM »
Well after a lot of consideration we decided to keep my truck. The two main deciding factors were tow capacity, yukon is a lot less than the truck. And also the integrated hitch on the yukon. I cant upgrade to a 2.5" receiver so my weight distributing setup would need to be replaced with a 2" version.
24
« on: December 15, 2017, 02:01:05 PM »
Any updates or issues with your 2500 suburban? I wasn't really looking for one, but it became available nearby. Debating whether I should buy it. We have been pulling a 25 foot enclosed trailer weighing about 5000 lbs most weekends racing motocross. The wife would rather drive this instead of my truck. A little more space inside, room for dogs, etc. I took it for a quick drive yesterday. Body is near perfect, interior is 8 out of 10 for condition. All options. Drives like I would expect for 146k miles, front end is a little loose, but otherwise seems ok. The plow was only used on personal driveway, its a one owner local vehicle. So its really pretty ideal, just the mileage makes me worry. http://www.greencc.com/VehicleDetails/used-2012-GMC-Yukon_XL-4WD_4dr_2500_SLT-East_Moline-IL/3069836103
25
« on: September 27, 2017, 02:21:03 PM »
That's kind of what I was thinking, thanks for the second opinion. They are offering it to him for $300. So not a ridiculous deal or anything, but its also worth the piece of mind knowing it's one you are already comfortable with.
26
« on: September 27, 2017, 09:32:44 AM »
My father in law is in the county sheriff's auxiliary and they are upgrading everyone's handgun. He has been carrying a Springfield Armory XD-45 for many years and they are offering the option to purchase it. I figured you guys are my best bet at a quick estimate of it's value. It is in really good condition, original box, 3 mags, and night sights, no other modifications or anything. Obviously it operates flawlessly. Side note: Photobucket appears to no longer allow uploads of "pictures like these". So I may not be using that website anymore. Let me know if the below dropbox links work ok. Thanks! https://www.dropbox.com/s/dkme75hgoo19oat/IMG952017092695212527431001.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7q4uul4i2v27z2/IMG952017092695212550165001.jpg?dl=0
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« on: August 28, 2017, 01:33:53 PM »
Wells Fargo local branch refused to let my wife close a checking account that had like $100 in it. They required her to set up a special meeting with someone higher up to discuss her "options". We were in the middle of moving and didn't have time for their sales pitch. She withdrew everything except maybe $0.50. A year later we got a call that her account had accrued a bunch of fees because they were charging her to keep the account open since it had such a little balance. We explained that we tried to close it and were not allowed to. They had the balls to ask us to pay money at this point to close the account. I think the conversation ended with something like "shove those fees up your A$$". Never heard from them again on that issue.
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« on: July 25, 2017, 09:21:30 AM »
It is refreshing to know free speech is still possible ... and hilarious!
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« on: June 15, 2017, 05:37:09 PM »
Wow, that sounds too good to be true.
30
« on: June 02, 2017, 01:59:35 PM »
I wasn't sure about the vinyl at first when you showed the side by side. But seeing the truck as a whole, I kinda like it. Wouldn't have worked with stock rims, but with black it does work. If it were mine I would think about blacking out all the chrome, then leave it at that. But it would be hard to do, your chrome looks to be in really good shape for the age. Not sure I could bring myself to paint it.
31
« on: May 10, 2017, 01:03:58 PM »
Should we collect that info and save it in a thread in the welder section? MIG welding wire tips. Otherwise I'll never find it when I need it :).
The old magnaflow dual exhaust system that the previous owner installed on my truck finally rusted through and one of the tailpipes basically fell off. I cut off the old muffler and welded up a new one with a new OEM tailpiece last night. It welded quite easily with a flux core 110v Hobart wirefeed welder. Now you have me wondering what wire thickness I am using, maybe I'll remember to check tonight. But whatever I have worked great. The worst part is laying under the truck, welding over your head looking in a mirror to get the top of the pipe. That was a bit of a challenge. I know all you fancy guys have diesels, but if anyone is looking for a muffler for a 6.0L gas, the flo-pro big oval series 2510 seems like a good option. It has just a small bit more rumble than stock at idle and low RPM, but is still really quiet at higher RPM ranges. For $130 I thought the muffler seemed to be really good quality. We'll see how long it lasts I guess.
32
« on: May 03, 2017, 01:53:19 PM »
Yes the electric power steering is highly recommended. We have one of each and it makes a huge difference. We bought our 2013 Polaris ranger 800 xp eps brand new and the belt just started slipping at 120 hours. Pretty good I thought considering I was admittedly really hard on it, you know, to see how well it would hold up. And also doing donuts is quite fun. New OEM belt and its running fine again. The actual changing of the belt is less than 5 minutes as long as you have strong hands and arms. The removal of the cover to access the belt however, took me 30 minutes. Kind of annoying. We had driven all the available UTV's at that time. The Polaris had the best mix of performance, soft ride and utility capability. The gator was better at hauling weight but the 620i engine is no fun at all, suspension too stiff and short stroke, and the seats sucked. And that's hard to admit, I have 3 family members and a few friends that work for Deere. But I have heard the new gators have improved greatly. So can't comment on those.
33
« on: April 26, 2017, 01:43:43 PM »
Update on the tractor. The wheels and tires are still working awesome. Unfortunately they are helping me discover the other weak points in this tractor's design. Last night the driveshaft between the engine and transaxle came apart. I was at full RPM at the time so the result was quite dramatic. After the initial explosion the engine continued to rotate the now disconnected driveshaft for a few seconds until I could get it shut down. It was flopping around and banging into everything making quite a racket.
After further investigation, the rubber motor mounts isolate the motor from the frame and allow some movement. When the tractor is pointed down a steep hill the engine can shift forward far enough from gravity to pull the driveshaft yoke almost completely off the transaxle input shaft. Without enough spline length left, they bind up and it spits the driveshaft off. Damaged several of the splines inside the yoke but luckily the transaxle shaft appears to have very little damage. Worse yet, when the driveshaft bound up it forced the engine even further forward causing it to contact the radiator. I now have large puddle beneath the tractor and will remove the radiator to examine. I suspect it is punctured.
So what did I do wrong to cause this? I can't find anything. I was operating nose down on a steep hill and only barely creeping forward. I assumed the tractor would be designed to tolerate this operating angle but apparently not. Going uphill would be fine as the engine and driveshaft are forced rearward even further onto the splined shaft.
Anyway the only reason I bothered posting is that through some internet research I have found that this driveline is a very common failure for the 2320 model. My failure didn't follow this pattern but I thought I would post info anyway. Deere forgot to include in the service manual that these U-joints need to be greased. And the design of it all is not ideal. They are very hard to get to. Lucky for you big Don, the 2720 that you have is a different design. Yours is straight from the engine to the transaxle. On the 2320 they used two u-joints to offset the engine from the transaxle which allowed a more flat operator station. I would have gladly accepted the "hump" in the operator station instead of this driveshaft. At a minimum the part alone is $685.
Anyone else out there with a 2320 please pay attention to any increase in vibration and avoid going forward downhill. There is a youtube video on how to remove the driveshaft and replace just the u-joints. This also applies to a few other tractors, I think the 2305 and 4100 series?
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« on: April 26, 2017, 01:30:00 PM »
Am I the only one that finds it ironic to buy lumber in order to build a machine that will make .... lumber? But I don't have a better suggestion. The precut and dried pieces should stay more true than a freshly cut beam anyway. Just seemed funny.
35
« on: April 13, 2017, 01:39:56 PM »
It is interesting to see some of the upgrades that you get with the 2720 compared to my 2320. Obviously more HP, but also the heavier rear axle setup, and two fuel filters? I only have the lower clear one. That mower deck surprised me though. I thought they all had drive over decks. Maybe that is only in the smaller sizes? Not sure. I almost bought a new take off deck for mine, drive over, it was only 54". My old 430 has a 60" deck, which I was thinking about selling if I bought the deck for the 2320. But just can't see getting a narrower deck. 72" however, if I found one locally I would have to buy it. Could you measure the clearance on yours from the bottom of the deck to the ground when it is all the way up. Just curious if it will be in the way a lot or only a little when using the tractor for other things.
36
« on: April 06, 2017, 01:12:33 PM »
Bummer it blew up on you! Too bad it's not a late model KTM, or even a late model of any brand. I have been looking for a rolling chassis to cram a cr500 into. But 2005 is too old to be worth the effort. Those bikes had some handling issues if I recall correctly, but by 2009 they turned corners extremely well. Not sure what year they fixed it though. 04 was terrible, I think the last year of the steel frame. 05 being aluminum might have been way better. Anyway that bike running good, is only worth $2k around here so might not be worth fixing it. The roller might sell for $1,000. You might get more parting it out on ebay. At least that is what I would consider looking into.
37
« on: March 17, 2017, 01:44:19 PM »
Haha, that small tractor with a grapple gave me a laugh. You should send that picture back to the manufacturer and complain that you are having trouble lifting logs with it. Oh to see the look on their face! I purchased one of their smaller set of 36" pallet forks over a year ago. I would have liked the larger back support piece that yours have, but with my size tractor I didn't want to give up any more lifting weight than I had too. They have successfully lifted countless pallets of random things, a refrigerator, furniture, logs, and somewhere around 900 lbs of rubber flooring. That was the absolute limit to what my loader can pick up, but the forks handled it fine.
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« on: March 09, 2017, 01:33:23 PM »
He has been talking about an excavator for a while now, one with a thumb. That will do the heavy lifting if needed.
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« on: March 09, 2017, 01:31:10 PM »
Curious to know if that fixes it. I know with our 2013 ranger it has an issue with getting water into the rear brake light switch which causes the lights to stay on after you turn it off. I have avoided pressure washing that area ever since and it appears to be fine.
40
« on: February 20, 2017, 01:59:41 PM »
Just had a thought, the plumbing looks solid which makes me wonder what happens if/when your two inch line is completely full of water heading to your tanks? Do you have an air vent to let out the increasingly pressurized air or is the tank going to have to burp eventually? Not sure what the right way to handle it would be, maybe just not tightening down the threaded fittings at the top of each tank would be enough to let the air hiss out as the water fills it up.
Also, for you overflow you could plumb a standard Tee into the section between the two tanks facing up at a small angle, should give enough resistance that the water would still follow gravity into your tanks until they are full and then just over flow from there. It would give you the opportunity to plumb in another pair of tanks there in the future if you wanted also, or just run an over flow line off to another location.
Anyway, just a couple of thoughts from a nonprofessional who thinks he knows things.
I concur the tanks need to be vented to operate the best they can. I would add a 1-1/2" vent connection on the top of each tank, it will also serve as the overflow if you just leave them open to atmosphere. But connecting to the supply pipe between the tanks would only work as an overflow, this location will not provide proper venting.
41
« on: February 15, 2017, 12:55:12 PM »
Might want to use a freeze proof hose bibb or put a valve on the inside to isolate it in severe weather
I second this, they make freeze proof hose bibbs for a reason. Do you have enough room inside for it?
42
« on: February 08, 2017, 02:31:04 PM »
Mine also has to occasional bump or stumble when idling. I have been meaning to dig into that but haven't had time. It runs great otherwise.
43
« on: February 08, 2017, 02:12:58 PM »
I wouldn't think so unless the exhaust leak was really large.
44
« on: February 08, 2017, 01:32:42 PM »
I believe 2013 was the last year for them, so they will hold their value quite well.
If you are going to look at these with the 6.0L gas engine, check the driver side rear exhaust manifold bolt. 9 times out of 10 the bolt head will be broken off and missing. It causes a little exhaust leak between the manifold and the head. Most people ignore it until it starts ticking. Requires drilling out and tapping the hole for a new bolt, or using a repair bracket. Not the end of the world, but it can be a great bargaining chip with a dealer because the repair is fairly labor intensive. I have used the repair bracket on 3 engines in a row now, seems to work just fine.
45
« on: February 07, 2017, 12:56:05 PM »
curious if its the 4 speed auto or 6. i think the 6 was introduced in 2009. the 4 speed was all over the place when we test drove one.
I concur, the 6 speed should be standard on all of them 2009 and newer. It is easy to tell. The shifter either has the + and - buttons indicating a 6 speed trans, or it doesn't indicating a 4 speed.
46
« on: January 27, 2017, 01:57:19 PM »
47
« on: January 27, 2017, 01:54:16 PM »
If you definitely want the chevy you would either need to find one with low miles (75k or less?) and turn the afm off, watch the oil consumption, etc or you could possibly buy one that already had an engine failure. You could possibly get it so cheap that you could put a new engine in it and start with zero miles. OR, if you get lucky, you could find a truck with the 6.0L vortec max engine, which would avoid the AFM issue.
However, I would only recommend the above options if you were dead set on needing a suburban or Tahoe, or otherwise hell bent on staying with chevy. Since you said you wanted a crew cab truck, I think the dodge and ford offerings might be worth exploring. For my money, it would be the dodge.
48
« on: January 25, 2017, 01:42:00 PM »
ROFL ... That is the best. My favorite is the stick figures at the bottom, labeled so clearly!
49
« on: January 25, 2017, 01:38:59 PM »
Looking great! Can't wait to see it all broken down for transport. Then to see if it reassembles again without any issues. Good luck!
50
« on: January 25, 2017, 01:29:06 PM »
Have you had any issues with this hose reel leaking air? That's what always worries me about getting one of the cheap ones, that it might continually leak a little and run my compressor more than normal.
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