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6.7L cummins.......
Quote from: stlaser on July 18, 2020, 10:19:26 PM6.7L cummins.......Im a Chevy man through and through but I agree with this. Until I sold mine we had 2 duramaxes 07 classic and a 2013. We also have 2 dodges. Second gen 12 valve cummins and 09 with the 6.7 in a single cab dually. The 6.7 deleted with a 35 hp tow tune out performs the duramax in every way. Near 20 mpg pulling an empty 30 ft goose neck trailer. It is a beast. My $.02 if I were doing it I would go with the cummins.
I have no idea. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Wagner street rods. LB7 pistons and crank. Keep the rest stock with 30 or 40 overs and a 64mm cheetah stealth. Should get you where you want to go.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote from: Farmer Jon on July 19, 2020, 08:09:04 AMQuote from: stlaser on July 18, 2020, 10:19:26 PM6.7L cummins.......Im a Chevy man through and through but I agree with this. Until I sold mine we had 2 duramaxes 07 classic and a 2013. We also have 2 dodges. Second gen 12 valve cummins and 09 with the 6.7 in a single cab dually. The 6.7 deleted with a 35 hp tow tune out performs the duramax in every way. Near 20 mpg pulling an empty 30 ft goose neck trailer. It is a beast. My $.02 if I were doing it I would go with the cummins. OK, for the sake of discussion, Jon, how would I do that? The 6.7 is a common-rail engine with its own electronics. How would someone get that to interface with the old style chevy can-bus/OBDII?
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
There was something about the LB7. I do remember something about it as well. But that was also before the LMM was a thing too. It may be a cooling port/jacket thing too.I don’t know anything about what changes were made with water jacket etc. I also don’t know as I seen it in passing and didn’t have the need.
That’s my plan Don. The rods are the weak link in the LB7 rotating assembly. The get bendy around 650-700 depending on the pulse width and timing. Oversized injectors help that a lot but I’d still replace the. Lots of truck pull guys have run heavily modified LB7s in competition. The LML block is somewhat stouter in the webbing area but again a non issue at the power level you want to run. My LB7 with lift pump better wastegate in the turbo and dsp 5 runs really hard and I’d say it outran my LML but the LML was dragging around another 2000+lbs. Alt firing cams are generally for those approaching 1000hp but there is still some evidence that the alt firing cam doesn’t solve what they thought it solved. LB7 pistons are pretty stout for a 600-700 hp build but by all means fingers or Mahle would be fine. The LB7 ficm has been shown to run the LLY injectors just fine and performance mfgs now have plug and play injector harnesses to make it easier. As soon as I find a shop I trust I plan to have the LB7 block I have machined to spec 20 over and start slowly gathering the parts. My LB7 only has 197k on it so I should be ok for a while. My autocorrect went crazy On the other post. Wagler is the brand of rod I would run. Good to 1000hp much cheaper than Carrillo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don, my understanding is you don’t need any aftermarket parts to make the swap. All the parts from a 2500HD with Dmax interchange. I know the cluster has to be changed and I’m guessing BCM,ECM, FICM and all the harnesses from the firewall out. The only aftermarket part you will need is the injector harnesses to run the LLY injectors off the FICM from the LB7.My suggestion is to find a complete LB7 2500/3500 as a donor and start swapping partsSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I believe suncoast has all the stuff to make a 6 speed conversion. I don’t think you can drop a later model 6 speed in it. It has to be the conversion for the reasons you stated. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/suncoast-5-6-speed-conversion/Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Boss, the best advice you got, you have ignored. Still love you though.