REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Powerplant, Driveline, and Braking => Topic started by: Sammconn on August 23, 2021, 11:05:59 AM
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How it all began.
At approximately 17:11 hrs 15 July 2020, this occurred.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/5be03eeb252d4d1cf5e4fae30ed0c891.jpg)
I had said from day one of owning this truck, at 500,000 kms I wanted to do ‘stuff’, HH6 agreed probably thinking there was no way we were keeping it this long. Fast forward from May of 2006 to July 2020.
As pure luck would have it, July 23 2020, I did something to my truck, wasn’t a limp, but something similar from what I later found. I made it very angry and hard to drive. My reader was in mama’s Equinox as it needs codes reset all the time, so I found myself searching for a code reader.
No one had one. My dad suggested my uncle may, and he did. We went to get it to clear my codes and I seen a shiny new to him 2017 Duramax. Asked what happened to the old one, traded it. Long story longer, he was having heating issues towing, shocking for a 15 year old truck right? The stealer wouldn’t commit to any sort of quote, imagine that, so he seen the shiny red 2017 and said screw it.
I suspected a clogged stack, and no concern to me. He let me know it had a new transfer case in it, and a few other things and said he would have no concerns driving other than if towing hard it heats up.
I knew the old one was a Duramax. I was under the impression 2005. So went and had a look that evening after dinner with HH6’s sister and hubby, I was interested in the box, as mine is very sick. Another project for another day, and to my surprise, it had the wrong wheels for an ’05. Quick look at the VIN and is was an ’07… AN LBZ! How convenient.
Went to buy it the following day, and kind of snowballed the salesman. “What can I help you with?” Me ”I’m here to buy Uncle Larry’s old LBZ. I know what you gave him, what’s your bottom line?” He said a number, I looked at him and said “well that’s taxes in then right? As I know you paid him XXX.” He sighed a little and agreed as I knew too much for him to try anything further.
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So now I had a complete parts truck, literally. I made arrangements with them to use a dealer plate to get it home when I came back later in the fall. Took it to my parent’s farm to sit until I could drive it home. Deer season came and mamma and I both came out, she and a friend drove my truck back, and I hopped into the new one and did the same. Drove great, seemed strong, but has a nasty kick on bumps. Turns out it has air bags on it that are NS, and likely bottoming out. Also has a hitch in the box, no idea on brand. Parked it an inch from the side of the house for winter, as it was too late to start anything stupid like a motor swap in December.
Called in a favour from my dealership buddy and ran a VIN check.
Pretty minor wrap sheet.
Good to see.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/e1096b8aed0646d134608f4fe92bdb5c.jpg)
Then 30 Nov, 2020 at approximately 16:21 this happened.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/779422032110e3ae00a97b05ee579f8e.jpg)
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Somewhere the spring of this year, I began the parts procurement process.
Scouring the interwebs for ‘deals’ on the things I needed (read wanted) and actually needed.
Parts started coming to my house and to my son’s as shipping to me isn’t always an option as couriers don’t come here and add 3-400 bucks sometimes to ‘free shipping’.
We’ll play parts a bit:
New manis and up pipes from our friends at PPE.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/3b0c89762139908144099fd38b423e02.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/57ac8fcec0d1d9abd6a72c214753ff9b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/a96cd99b068bccda5eb76354d433fe85.jpg)
And a box full of gasket kit, suspension stuff, turbo rebuild.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/5f387848b7c08039c9f183527f46b9f8.jpg)
And let’s not forget serpentine belt and pulley kit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/6c73bfe41768979444dd6542377d88b6.jpg)
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On 22 May, 2021, my water pump finally finished ‘going’. on my DD truck.
I suspect by the lack of spots now occurring on my driveway, that my water pump started ‘going’ about three years ago.
Thankfully Project LBZ had began, I had a water pump on hand.
Now it was the welded impeller one, destined for the other motor...
I need another water pump now.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/01a564bf77458eb28247474e7904c2d8.jpg)
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19 July 2021, 17:00 hrs:
It has begun.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/35ba98ef9a879451a0e8a098b6fd74fd.jpg)
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Had to fight, more than a little to get the fan off. This one was crazy tight by comparison to mine and needed heat, ratchet straps
and all sorts of nonsense not used on my first go round on my daily driver.
A few scrapes and cusses and it yielded and came out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/fc977bcae127ac9e5b674b6b03d11854.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/0143e931b33d831da5acb26ebcff8043.jpg)
Immediately after this picture I remembered I was going to wash it off. So back out the door and pressure washed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/9f0cb2aa542468ee36c027731517240b.jpg)
Man is this thing FILTHY!
The engine bay needs addressed once the trans is out of the way.
Will be a quick wash and clean up, address anything that needs fixin and move outta the way.
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Yes!! :popcorn: :popcorn:
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This is greag
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Somewhere the spring of this year, I began the parts procurement process.
Scouring the interwebs for ‘deals’ on the things I needed (read wanted) and actually needed.
Parts started coming to my house and to my son’s as shipping to me isn’t always an option as couriers don’t come here and add 3-400 bucks sometimes to ‘free shipping’.
We’ll play parts a bit:
New manis and up pipes from our friends at PPE.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/3b0c89762139908144099fd38b423e02.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/57ac8fcec0d1d9abd6a72c214753ff9b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/a96cd99b068bccda5eb76354d433fe85.jpg)
And a box full of gasket kit, suspension stuff, turbo rebuild.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/5f387848b7c08039c9f183527f46b9f8.jpg)
And let’s not forget serpentine belt and pulley kit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210823/6c73bfe41768979444dd6542377d88b6.jpg)
I use those PPE manis and pipes. Very happy with mine
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I’m hoping they done effect my tuning.
I forgot to ask John if this was going to matter.
I know when he tuned it back in 2007 he deleted the egr crap.
I hope the increased flow isn’t an issue.
I did ask him about new sticks and he said as long as stock no issue.
Hopefully I do t have to send ecm out for an update.
If I do so be it.
After 300k of trans safe tune I’d say he nailed it.
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I took the liberty of removing all the ‘extra crap’ on top of the motor, you know like the turbo inlet, the wiring harness, fuel filter head, and whatever other random bits could be removed while on the engine hoist chains.
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Then got to the turbo and eventually the oil pan.
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The ‘parts’ pile is getting out of hand. I built a welding table out of saw horses and plywood to store and organize the parts on as this was not good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/84669c81e3d942209ab2a24ce30ecbe5.jpg)
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The flywheel bolts are crazy tight and require the flywheel lock and while suspended from chains two people. I watched a couple youtubes and found one from a dealership that had a guy on the flywheel and a guy on the harmonic balancer bolt. They did a three count and the bolts went ‘ting’. Turns out with the addition of the flywheel loc to work on the hook too. I tried torching and had to warn my buddy not to touch the flywheel as it was still hot when he came over.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/e319d1c470648656271e398b60a9785b.jpg)
Once free of the flywheel, then the oil pan has to come off, then you can remove the rear cover. Seems like a bad design to me, but it is the way they made it.
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And with enough ‘crap’ taken off, I could finally mount it to the engine stand. I now understand why the shops all use the side mound ones now for these engines.
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And just got a message that I've reached my taptalk limit for the month.
Crap, y'all gotta wait now...
:facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:
Might have to VIP it for the month...
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Ok.
So to carry on with this.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/0fa1dc83c01a446d21808a3b42bfa3af.jpg)
Parts storage is at a premium so I used one of these to temporarily hold stuff.
Injector return lines off, front cover off, slowly getting to the block.
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Can someone tell me how to rotate these pics?
Please and thanks.
I’m either stupid or can’t do it…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Finally tore down to the block and rotating assembly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/569a655b45411f389fc471e5082e35fe.jpg)
For some reason I didn’t take a picture of the parts piles.
Too bad as it was epic.
That wooden box would not be enough to hold it all protecting those that needed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Into the guts we go.
So like curiosity killed the cat, I think we all wanted to know the bearing clearances.
Part of me was going to regardless as I invested heavily in ARP shares over the year and had most of them for the motor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/5adec54175d8c515858165d15610dad6.jpg)
475,xxx kms or 297,xxx miles.
These look all but new.
Checked all clearances on all mains and rods.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210825/48993e3c90994027f6ef949050037af0.jpg)
So with .002 - .003” it’s going back together.
Amazing for a 300k motor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well it’s all tore down and really really dirty still. Time to clean parts that will be reused. I started with the normal methods most folks would use, a combo of the Varsol tank and an ultrasonic cleaner. Six hours later I had the bulk of the grease mud and filth removed from most of the parts. I now remember why I hate Varsol so much. The hangover the next day was terrible.
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As I looked at the parts the next few days, the stench of Varsol made me consider doing more.
Bring on the kitchen! (And the part some of you thought I was NUTZ)
Parts cam in one box at a time, and went through a combination of sink, ultrasonic, dishwasher and oven as needed to clean and dry them out afterwards. Yes HH6 was aware, and at the cabin so it was of no concern for me.
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Everything was clean and grease free at this point and stuff that was still not where I wanted it carried on farther.
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Anything oil and fuel related then hit a 225 oven to evaporate any internal moisture and be clean and dry. I may be considered for being a little too anal with my cleaning, however IMO the inside of an engine needs to be without crud.
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The final product began to grow in the corner of clean and ready parts.
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I kind of believe this is why I have a trust issue with shops. This is what I would expect to happen, and I don’t know if it would be a deliverable from most.
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:popcorn: :popcorn:
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Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.
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Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.
My sentiments, I’ll clean it as much as you want to pay…..
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Not many shops would go to the efforts you do to clean parts, nor could you afford the costs involved. Great work young man.
Agreed.
I’d hate to pay the bill for the hours I’ve put in cleaning.
I wish I were still young…well sometimes.
Still am by some standards, wish I were 20-something again.
Those injuries are really starting to take their time.
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Had a chance to get a nice washing cabinet and waited (space). Looking again as cleaning is a chore!
Nice work.
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The heads went for service, and some dingbat forgot to take and before and after’s of them and now has them on the block.
Sorry gang, my bad there…
But before the heads went back, the cleaning continued.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/c1065a399957162b7db69491de7e1649.jpg)
If you don’t have, invest in a good quality carbide scraper. It peels the old silicone and grease and paint and everything quite very well.
Is a dental pick too far…I think not? :cool:
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Prep complete, time for some semi-gloss black engine enamel. And boy she looks good!
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Next up I installed main stud kit and rod bolts from my ARP box of shares… All gooped up with their ARP lube, seemed like some sort of never seize to me. Rods we torqued to 95 ft/lbs as I do not have a means to measure ‘stretch’ that is their recommended method. If you do, it is 0.007-0.0075”.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/4c62338b1b88ca2243f30064c50444c5.jpg)
Main studs torqued to 125 ft/lbs in three steps, and outside block bolts to 90 ft/lbs in three steps. I chose to Loctite them into the block, right wrong or otherwise...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/13533153e94395cd1f36250895f69c75.jpg)
And of course the obligatory thumbs up and down of new vs. old.
Oh, hey, there’s a pic of the heads after service…holding the scrap metal.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/55cb4e0447ec59358fe6216aaeb0bf91.jpg)
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While the engine was upside down, I took the liberty to face the decks and keep the most amount of crud out. I couldn’t find my purchased block sander, so I had to use a trued chunk of oak wrapped in sandpaper. I worked from 150-400 and cleaned the decks up quite well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/223ce0f9fb4bba9a6df076930657fb04.jpg)
Some mid-way cleaning.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/ff078b4063a03886a0c2ad596f6ad63f.jpg)
And Done.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/670a3879248bc57b41a3467971a4879d.jpg)
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Next up, I flipped the motor upright and cleaned and painted the top side. The same painstaking steps used on top as the bottom.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/256941b100bc495312087c8e49d30451.jpg)
The masking tape on the crank washer is not there for any reason other than it's there now. It was part of the masking for the bottom side of the block and I just left it on if I was masking anything in the areal again..
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With that the head stud kit was opened, and heads installed and torqued to 175 ft/lbs in three steps on the M12’s and the four little bolts were to 25 ft lbs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/9afa894e47213be3743a5488314a9473.jpg)
With the heads on and torqued, in went pushrods and rocker assemblies.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/7c9192dc195d9197fa78e49cb679ecf5.jpg)
Valve las was adjusted per the Merchant Auto instructions. This procedure is noted in many YouTube videos and many instructions as the “go to” for simple setup.
A quick Google-Foo will find the article with this image for adjusting valves. It was quick and easy and on round four all the valves we in spec. there is a ‘feel’ for proper drag, and once you do it a few times you’ll understand.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/176cb4897b543fbbfca492776260a5e2.jpg)
And with the valves adjusted, on went valve covers. And the big chunk of a motor is starting to re-form on the stand.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/215cf3c76e6424380d7872c84d20a793.jpg)
Somewhere in here I flipped the block back upside down to install the oil pick-up and new oil pump before it got too top heavy. Sorry, no pics…
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Time to clean the CP3. This is the mid-way, it was all black goo when I started.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/87126cd4b0f176500adb1686748498ff.jpg)
And as I can’t leave anything without cleaning, so too was the CP3 wiring pigtail cleaned and then re-loomed and taped.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/f789a2d2de230aa0a52e08fd8a6256f1.jpg)
Installed with new O-ring and ready for more pieces.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/6a5024fc024377db394e08aa3c727832.jpg)
And there is the shiny new oil pump also.
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:likebutton: :likebutton:
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Thanks for the writeup Sam! :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton:
We all appreciate seeing the process, and we know you as a detail oriented guy.
Inspiring...
Inspirin' me to spend some more $$$$ on something I don't need to spend money on! :evil: :facepalm:
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Thanks for the writeup Sam! :likebutton: :likebutton: :likebutton:
We all appreciate seeing the process, and we know you as a detail oriented guy.
Inspiring...
Inspirin' me to spend some more $$$$ on something I don't need to spend money on! :evil: :facepalm:
So….
Got a use for an LBZ do ya…
:facepalm:
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Don't temp him!!
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Looking great Sam. That far into it did you consider replacing the CP3?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looking great Sam. That far into it did you consider replacing the CP3?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It did cross my mind.
With so many making many more miles I said no.
It’s not “that bad” to get to considering but not fun either.
I also monitored mine for quite some time and it has yet to falter from well over 26k under any heavy pull I could give it.
Hope that this decision doesn’t bite me…
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Minimum, put a cast pan on there to get all the oil out when you change it.
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Looks like it's time to play parts again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/839e7531b964ad640ba9e600509e93fc.jpg)
So here's new injectors.
The four dollars of dowel pins for the crank.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/d069ea70c74a6d4800b9bfdc01f2ee40.jpg)
A new cast flat bottom pan from our friends at PPE.
I have a place in Canada that gets me stuff quick if they have so did it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/f1ea52bfbc6c2e2d5393edd688488dd5.jpg)
And new motor mounts.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/b1ce37dd60cdd92749d482143105b405.jpg)
There's lots that I've likely misses along the way.
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An somehow i missed this on teardown.
This is why EGR crap is bad.
This is thick, and there was buildups over 3/8" in the Y-bridge as well.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/d5e47df12416f35058b50c773d6234d3.jpg)
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Time to close up the intake.
So with the supplied Aluminum gasket flange sealant, on went the controlled beads and then the intake runners were fit to the heads. The instructions were apply bead, install and finger tighten part. Wait ONE HOUR. Then tighten to spec. So that’s how slowly this step went.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/3cfa77997f006145970ea86e928471cd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/304f49289be5f809556587f9147b180e.jpg)
So here we wait for the timer to ring and tighten up the fasteners.
The Y-bridge is next up and with new rubber gaskets it was fought into place and tightened in. Then the front horn was installed with two new O-rings and a bit of grease for lube.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/5ef8c8baac010ce6ea2cd6df0821d329.jpg)
I want to say somewhere in here the CP3 came off and on the motor a couple times fitting stuff back together. It was in the way of the Y-bridge…but the horn part…well it was a bit of a pain.
Now with some Tabloid colour photos of the steps to put everything back.
For the record, I didn't take enough photos, and had to one step forward two steps back a couple times.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/71d1b4db12ad01ae1673f02749833844.jpg)
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Now for the oopsie!
When I removed the oil pump gear on disassembly, well…
It’s left hand thread…somewhere I missed that note.
So with the big impact and many “Dugga-Duggas” I realized it was not loosening.
Switched to tighten and voila off came the nut.
So, as a result of this, the gear that’d doweled to the crank, well, it rotated and sheared off the dowel.
So out with the good extractor set and drilled and pulled out the remaining piece.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/8506f927960ce78a5daf3f60110bc335.jpg)
I don't buy a lot of Snap-on, but some things are worth their 'cost', this is one of them.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/0271bcc638886ce38fb6a1a6b489da5a.jpg)
You can see what’s left near the tip of the extractor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/733129d32f51217e7973f6113f10dc9a.jpg)
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So it was time to close up the heads and head work.
Glow plugs were installed (no pics, as we all know about them) and injectors. So here is the box of new to me injectors. I confirmed with my tuner (Kennedy) that it shouldn’t be an issue with the new sticks. I took down all the numbers and locations of the injectors just in case.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/84dba4b92ca00cecadef95d2a361b9c5.jpg)
The first one out (thankfully) looked odd on the copper. It’s the green looking one. Since I had new ones in the gasket set, I took the liberty to just replace them all just in case. The green one I suspect was missed, but all were replaced.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/9514da345be2cfb8551927fb97f86c0d.jpg)
And all in the motor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/4407f6138ba34b38c88a014b17653685.jpg)
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Being the heads were now on and closed up, the front cover was next.
With my new dowel pins, I reinstalled the drive gear, the oil pump gear and tightened it all up without shearing the new pin.
We had been discussing seals and seal savers on Shawn’s build thread and it brought me to be needing seal drivers. Well, I am spoiled according to Ken, I kinda have to agree, and had some made one day…front and rear custom drivers. They do sell them online also for a couple hundo each.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/c05e27d5fe87ba19fc26b47a9a5dc5d0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/c3b92b1b120a82b4f4c08cdce1518bb5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/3c1e2226627bce0cd543aba739770567.jpg)
After checking for crankshaft clearance I used the seal driver to install the front main.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/bc3ff71963b36c0d18b724c2bf9f3bcf.jpg)
Worked like a champ! So Ken, if you have many to do may be worth a bit of time on the lathe, I think Kyle was about an hour for both. Was less than a minute to install.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/6071d5e23419377afb67aec1bf1516f4.jpg)
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New to you injectors, as in new removed from stock motor?
Nice idea on the pan. Why did they design the stock so bad. Would have loved to see the gook in yours.
Nice fancy extractors. You running stock breathers or the fancy billet adapters?
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New to you injectors, as in new removed from stock motor?
Nice idea on the pan. Why did they design the stock so bad. Would have loved to see the gook in yours.
Nice fancy extractors. You running stock breathers or the fancy billet adapters?
Injectors are re-mans from the shop that did my heads, they didn't do them, only supplied them for me.
Traded in the originals on these ones.
The pan was actually not bad surprisingly, no real 'pile of gook' as i would have also expected.
There is no doubt this is why the new oil is immediately 'dirty' after a change tho, as it did have a lot of oil left in it.
Almost all remaining stock, it's just easier for me as I don't have access to parts in a day, and one dealer can generally get me stuff in three days.
Worst case i have had to Air Freight stuff, but that is SPENDY, and not necessarily same day anymore either as our flights have been screwed over by the dempanic as well.
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A solid tune, no EGR and pipes will really open that thing up! Surprised how small the intake "Y" is stock.
Loosing the heater to, seems like a big restriction and you glow plugs? ( #3 on mine is bad again)
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I was actually surprised how small all the ports were as well, they seemed smaller than SBC ports.
Yeah, I've got a solid gold custom tune so looking forward to the new manis and up pipes and what difference they make.
My tune didn't delete the heater, so that code will come up right now, I would like to get rid of it however, as it does absolutely squat.
I disconnected it one cool winter morning at about -30 or so, and found the CEL came on, but zero impact on operation.
I re-used the glow plugs, I've changed all of them once in the truck and didn't have issues, so figures to save a few bucks there and spent them on the oil pan.
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The "delete" is the important part. Heater runner imho makes weird turns and is restrictive and a new pipe is not crazy $$$.
Still great work, makes me want to keep and eye out for a motor, but to many fires going!
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Now for the oopsie!
When I removed the oil pump gear on disassembly, well…
It’s left hand thread…somewhere I missed that note.
So with the big impact and many “Dugga-Duggas” I realized it was not loosening.
Switched to tighten and voila off came the nut.
So, as a result of this, the gear that’d doweled to the crank, well, it rotated and sheared off the dowel.
So out with the good extractor set and drilled and pulled out the remaining piece.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/8506f927960ce78a5daf3f60110bc335.jpg)
I don't buy a lot of Snap-on, but some things are worth their 'cost', this is one of them.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/0271bcc638886ce38fb6a1a6b489da5a.jpg)
You can see what’s left near the tip of the extractor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/733129d32f51217e7973f6113f10dc9a.jpg)
That is a handy part number...Thinking we should make a post of just this extractor kit over in "tools" (Not talking democrats...)
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Oh man this has been a metal treat to follow! Thank you
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With the front cover back on, it was time to start building up the mess of everything else on the motor. The first thing I tackled was the oil pressure and oil level harness. The wire loom was falling apart and was all replaced.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/1246fa0428728e142f30dff14dbdf683.jpg)
This is routed under the drivers head (location in front not actually under) and behind the cooling wye that comes part way through all the mess of stuff. If you forget this, you will then have to remove a few fuel lines, the coolant wye and re-route this harness…words of wisdom and a little PSA there.
I started laying in the hard parts and slowly built everything back to original layout. Order is very important and I only had a couple spots to back up a step and then add in the missing bit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/98bac244c1d5f8e1de95f2eef5f413b5.jpg)
With fuel rails in loosely, all fuel lines fitted I torqued them all down to a seemingly loose 30 ft/lbs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/0be636caf90bd0266d9209c83dab8fca.jpg)
New rubber everywhere and you can even see how I tried to keep that wiring harness in along the lower head level…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/3aaeb593207b1a1e0469f757f9792dbf.jpg)
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Well lookie here, I need to put the turbo back on now…
Guess it’s time to go through it.
I’ve never done one of these, so time for some google foo, and YouTube.
Cold side split, and you can see the soot and goo from the EGR and PCV.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/a168d7488c03561355cbda83009e9944.jpg)
Cold side completely removed, we can see the thrust bearing now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/dbcbb46a956d7b5918d9fe25b2d14995.jpg)
I then cringed a lot as I tried to split the hot side. Every part of striking cast with a hammer and chisel is just so wrong. But slowly the gap began to appear, and once it was moving it popped apart without issue. The hot side was surprisingly clean and free moving.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/5e24a7a424a7d1046fffc8c993745c69.jpg)
Being that I’m a hydraulic generating station guy, I looked at the ‘cute little wicket gates’ (the variable vanes) and laughed to myself some.
Fully open.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/df3ecf5ce4a88087b6fd468c7c58b559.jpg)
Fully closed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/e708181cf8249690abe3a4dc27d7c4ec.jpg)
Very free movement and really not that dirty.
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But, time to clean up the housing. Some heat signatures left behind, but no pitting, no concerns (at least to me).
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/f42563bc46839307245bb2b2326d0112.jpg)
On to the center section, the turbine shaft did not want to come out. A quick little tap with a rubber mallet, and the coking released and the shaft came out.
The thrust bearing is a 270* design and the new one is a 360* design.
The bushings and spacer came off, then I could address the coking and change the oil ring.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/1c21f9dbf455a08410e1a1d8d74c77b8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/078ef71779a0d89d52593e7df01225ca.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/ff7d01b2262e81740bbbde735f96465a.jpg)
You can see the coking at the turbine wheel.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/9a25df717f9e6a0e97f50b287819d99c.jpg)
Coking all removed, oil ring removed and everything looks good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/cf117c88faddda9d7b61ee1e3b8f8ec2.jpg)
And of course everything was cleaned to an ER state.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/a3d1b77880b777eda5329d7e63a9a9f8.jpg)
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Now, I may regret this later, but I left the variable vane controller and actuator alone. It moved freely, did not bind and I can’t afford to be down a turbo with the swap a few days away. So I left that part out, and for those curious, I don’t have a good center section picture, but there are two plugs to remove, the actuator assemble and the VPS. There are about 10 odd O-rings to replace, then hope to get it all back together not leaking and still functioning.
So with that decision made, time to assemble.
Everything got a slathering of fresh 0W-40 synthetic oil as the parts went together.
First up, the oil ring re-installed with a new one from the kit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/fd8078a25d8e9c3384ac5e91cc7e1cbc.jpg)
New bushing and spacer stack and more oil.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/e4da3d8e429113e3581c3eafaba2c800.jpg)
Slid into the center section, with a little oomph to get the oil ring into the housing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/89bee80844b2c7771e5d2052c6df2e12.jpg)
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Once I got started assembly I didn’t snap many pics.
One pose along the way as I tapped the hot side sections together, well it was posed after.
I'll also add, that I had to split it apart again, as I neglected to put the v-band clamp on prior to mating the halves... :knucklehead:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/dc57d9bd525fdbbdbef8a78f8d78eff9.jpg)
Assembled.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/53218976a1cb60919563343a513a76ba.jpg)
Installed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210901/9c29448c3a43357e55757a1eefaff2b7.jpg)
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Nice :likebutton:
Guess that soot and oil will not be an issue now.
Still think a wicked wheel would have been great.
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Nice :likebutton:
Guess that soot and oil will not be an issue now.
Still think a wicked wheel would have been great.
It probably would have been good.
I'd have to check with the tuner tho, as the more I do the closer to a re-tune I get.
I was ok with the manis and pipes, not sue if the WW would be too much or not.
Probably not, but we all know how an oil change goes...
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So next up I got a bit excited and installed the long-awaited new PPE manifolds and up pipes.
I think somewhere I mis-labeled this Project LBZ, as it is clearly an LB7 based on the exhaust set-up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/ec1b861d7586120340fc858cb21ba0c9.jpg)
Bolted right up like they should and tightened to a menial 39 and 42 ft/lbs.
Need a snipe and six of your friends to undo them…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/4969d5a7f837f5ebcaf2042f12e70d69.jpg)
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In my excitement, I realized the oil cooler was not on…
So, as earlier stated my not so complete engine gasket set had let me down again, so in rushed my GM online parts again.
For anyone keeping score, these were not in the “complete Duramax Gasket Set” either:
About forty bucks from the General, so not horrible I suppose. Maybe normal folk don’t take it apart either? Dunno, I don’t fit many molds these days.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/5dfaa472b96bd33b18d789c39ff0b859.jpg)
The innards and case half.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/3ad0be2c2fa0d56680788314f2394ba4.jpg)
New gaskets.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/74d9b25d72f559b564e7f9d12bfa5c51.jpg)
Cooler halves assembled and torqued. I should give a shout out to Longhorn Fab guys, as they have a really complete torque spec sheet online for anyone else that goes all in.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/53c0661324266284a5127e01dd37ee67.jpg)
It was installed with new O-rings, under the just installed drivers’ manifold…
If only I’d have done it first would be so much easier. And no picture as I was frustrated with my oversight and enthusiasm to get the manis on.
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Next I tackled the LB7 conversion for the intake piping. Still frustrated I forgot to snap a lot of pics. It was a ‘cheap amazon find’ but had nicely machined parts that fit. No instructions, so with some trial and error figured it all out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/8ee244cd6c54c7fd7105a4561d47e4b4.jpg)
The riser mounts where some LBZ parts used to be to fill the gap and fasten the intake piping to the motor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210902/100ea072a10f60d4c6ed82ca36a0c5a9.jpg)
With this done, the pink rag was positioned as it is much more visible for later than the gray one I had been using.
It’s getting to be go time, and I found some of the special molded hoses I’m going to need to buy. The good news, with the LB7 set up, I can carry on and install them later without interference.
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Is there a part number on the pass up pipe? I may need one and no answer from PPE.
:likebutton: :likebutton:
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Is there a part number on the pass up pipe? I may need one and no answer from PPE.
:likebutton: :likebutton:
Not that I noticed.
I'll take a look tonight to be sure.
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Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ. Not sure I’ve run across that.
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Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ. Not sure I’ve run across that.
No EGR up pipe.
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That’s the upgrade yep!
No part numbers on the uppipe JR.
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Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ. Not sure I’ve run across that.
No EGR up pipe.
Yeah I don’t have any of that garbage.
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Great job Sam. Please elaborate on the LB7 intake on the LBZ. Not sure I’ve run across that.
No EGR up pipe.
Yeah I don’t have any of that garbage.
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Me either now.
:)
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Time for some wiring harness action.
Oh hey, there’s the oil cooler.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/615b79ec8df5b99fdc99b4e0a04d4c37.jpg)
With the harness slung over the motor, I loosely attached it with the three mounting screws.
Y’all know what’s next, and there is A LOT OF WIRES on these motors…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/52232d1cd9c9bde272b7dfeec4775364.jpg)
Slowly and methodically I cut open, R&R’d the old loom and re-taped it back together.
The whole motor was covered with a couple fleece jackets to keep the dirt and crud off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/355180c9e14af7733850730f77bafcf9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/510beb684dbdff92d476d89182ee67e9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/55fd79f901e04e1559f18e7d199fac63.jpg)
All the way in…and slowly building back up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/6554285d33d7102d297166946cdf22cf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/5e1cccddaac4f84f9e789f2393f9f54c.jpg)
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Well shoot, now we've caught up to my story, and reality for that matter.
With the wiring harness all reworked it was time to get to the rear cover and oil pan.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/4fbe5e1aeb7efcd50197220bb5807d01.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/754a2203fa0eb9efff800f37ec25e8e2.jpg)
Gasket silicone applied and rear cover positioned.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/83ebed891a0d3ae42f112a220f356e44.jpg)
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Oh, so when I put that oil cooler on after the manifolds instead of before....
Well it has to come off to get the corner bit in tight to the rear cover, then tight to the cooler.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/921ce315ac613d51e8a40936611d2058.jpg)
With the rear cover torqued in went the rear main.
I'm not happy with it, hence the call to Ken or anyone who can tell me replace it if it needs.
The felt 'crinkled up' and I know that's not the seal, but it's not exactly a simple fix if I've buggered it up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/3ed38a52d585f80ec62b699f6f0ae23c.jpg)
And as wrong as it felt the whole time I was under the suspended on a hoist motor, the oil pan was also installed silicone rested, and then torqued.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210903/6211fb13c129b2ae2aa4ef9c60f8d990.jpg)
As of this writing, y'all are caught up to the reality of where this build currently sits.
This last picture was taken at 21:XX last night when it was too late to start the lower pan with a zero six start time at work.
I'm old and need my beauty rest :facepalm: some of that may be true...
Now;
I'm on the fence about starting the swap this weekend. I should.
It's our last long weekend of summer, we start our shutdowns at work on Monday night, and it's supposed to rain.
I'm not made of sugar, so if it does rain I'll likely start.
If it doesn't, I may stay at the lake.
I need it done and tested prior to 2 Oct as it will be heading south then.
And somewhere in about there or soon after winter starts in these parts.
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Attention to detail is definitely there, kudos to you!
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Curious why not out an upgraded turbo on this?
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Sam, is it my imagination or does the water from the oil cooler travel through a passage in the rear housing/cover?:??
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Sam, is it my imagination or does the water from the oil cooler travel through a passage in the rear housing/cover?:??
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Sure does. It is a really odd setup when first looking.
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Curious why not out an upgraded turbo on this?
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Dave, I wanted to at 30k when I tuned the truck.
Was having all kinds of turbo related codes.
Was all the stealership.
The stock motor and all associated are good for 600-650.
Which is pretty darned good.
If I upgrade it will be twins so no need to do anything now.
Also, different turbo certainly would have meant new tuning.
And I can’t drive to Wisconsin yet, and I like to do a dyno tune again.
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Fair enough. I like the twin setup and would really like to drive one and see how real world application it is for me
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I installed that Fleece single (larger) turbo and am pretty happy with it. It does take a tad longer to spool, but when it does it really hits hard. Climbing long hills at 65, just roll in a bit more and this huge surge of power just catapults the truck forward. Not looking back, I like this larger turbo, and mine does not have the hissing vanes. Its just a straight up turbo.
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I still think a WW would be sweet. Just spools faster from what I hear and the VV does the rest.
Looks good, to bad all those wires have to bugger it up.
You pulling cab to swap?
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Ok. Back to this thing.
My nuther new rear main, some more new bolts and the fancy tightly bent rubber hoses all showed up.
So out with the old new rear main.
Somewhere I saw a guy run screws into the seal.
Didn’t watch the whole thing but knew by the bite the screw got that a nail puller would work.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/fc776f3945ab5a4c4ee29334b1e18cdf.jpg)
It pulled through the shaft protector so I threaded them back in and repeated.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/98ae5494f0d5f576426aa7cffd2359ed.jpg)
Then. With much more attention. In went the new new seal.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/e68c3342cc0391d4dbd53d5074471044.jpg)
I then installed the turbo coolant bent hose.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/fa498ad097983d596bd494b25bde89bb.jpg)
And the fuel return U-turn hose.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210918/ecc15939d30c17bee78dc069b0b9f7f2.jpg)
I’ve cleaned up the driveway some now and with any luck stuff will start falling out of my truck tomorrow.
Would have been today, but alas work got in the way and ruined the morning. Now I have a new employee showing up in about an hour so I’ll have to get him settled into his apartment. Then off to the lake for the evening to have dinner with mama and repeat.
0500 it is quite cool and dark to be boating. Lol. But gonna do it again tomorrow.
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I still think a WW would be sweet. Just spools faster from what I hear and the VV does the rest.
Looks good, to bad all those wires have to bugger it up.
You pulling cab to swap?
Not pulling the cab.
I think that will be far more work.
Aside from not having a lift and all that good stuff, it really isn’t “that” bad.
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So started stripping stuff out for initial pressure wash.
Found the source of my exhaust smell in the cab.
Can’t complain really, been on since about 40k.
And as you can see by rest of the truck, we’ll it’s a truck.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210919/85aa12958815b13a1cab97aba61f3c16.jpg)
This thing is a bit oily and greasy everywhere too.
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Those conditions do a job on things, don't they?
I don't miss MN weather at all.
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So slowly pushing along.
We have a unit out at work, so my time has been sparse the past two weeks.
Should be done Saturday if all goes well. Then I’ll have more time for a few days.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210922/7dea76f5fd731ec64e6c2ffd635af197.jpg)
The pressure washing sure made things look rough. I’ll address that once the motor is out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210922/f76818de242dddb40170b3d885ce3bb9.jpg)
Passenger side all ready, save for torque converter bolts. Starter ready to pull once exhaust off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210922/c57fdde1e169ce840856e621018694ef.jpg)
Drivers side couple more checks.
Fuel lines, trans bell housing and TC all that’s left.
On a side note, torsion bolts came out without issue. Shocked I was to say the least.
Planning to drop the front end nearly to the ground to pull motor. Will remove key nuts if needed and suspension bumps too.
Need to keep this condenser attached if I can.
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She looks like some salty miles for sure!!!
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I don’t see salt up here generally. Not used at home occasionally see it when I go south. Too cold at home for salt. Lol.
It is just a lot of rock and sandblasting from gravel however.
Probably 100k is gravel miles.
And I wish I were kidding.
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But...
Almost all of that will pressure wash clean.
I'd actually think of doing that and lathering down some good frame coating and shooting the inside of all the steel panels/frame with some cosomoline derivative
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But...
Almost all of that will pressure wash clean.
I'd actually think of doing that and lathering down some good frame coating and shooting the inside of all the steel panels/frame with some cosomoline derivative
It does pressure wash well for sure.
I even found some of that black wax type crap still in a few spots!
Shiny bare metal underneath still.
I don’t have nearly enough POR-15 but will be getting more.
I had the lawn sprinkler running under the mid section for a few hours.
Pea gravel left now to get out. So I’ll do it again a couple more times to get the fines out the it should be easy enough
I do plan to clean it all up and some form of newly applied coating inside.
POR-15 all of the accessible stuff.
Then rubberized undercoat it all.
This all may be a next summer project other than the engine bay.
I have phase whatever planned for the body… some is very rough.
I have about two weeks to get this one done to give me enough time to get the other back to a runner before winter.
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Well got a few more bolts out tonight before the torrential downpour.
Me and FaceTime were able to remove the torque converter bolts.
Dropped one. Somewhere.
It will turn up.
Can’t find my good magnet.
That will bite me later I’m sure.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/5c450c8e2d87e8ff94ccb11002cc298d.jpg)
This worked surprisingly well.
Rolled motor to next hole.
Wiggled on to bolt head remove amd repeat.
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Then removed the downpipe.
It’s toast. And with it gone trans bolts are easy on passenger side.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/e0df18a6a53952d84a4149d824707d0d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210924/d8ade620d1d543cc5a32b43f83e98932.jpg)
This is a Pro Fab pipe.
In no way do I blame the condition on materials or workmanship. The turbo end is proof positive that it is a sound unit.
It failed from sandblasting and lack of being washed I suspect. Other than the end not protected it is still 99% I would wager.
Then the rain hit.
Four more easy bolts and the top one left on the trans.
Will be out soon.
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:likebutton:
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So pressing forward.
This got very real to HH6.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/3c873e65f20dc16cb6df709bc2c24ca0.jpg)
I started by taking the jack stands out and dropping the front.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/3a7d0f8e59041cf138f2ab19205e6539.jpg)
Flipped the hood to maintenance position and like magic out came the ole 6.6.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/adb22f452a717761ac51dc3ec7f30500.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/7128162b62860de2e28d6d6997860706.jpg)
It’s a balmy 45 degrees currently.
Actually the best temp to be working IMO.
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With the motor out I could finally see how bad my mess was.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/6cf6f6506bb9fa0fb18e69b86767839a.jpg)
300+ k miles adds out to a mess for sure.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210925/999ab1578e8d90ce4f39f7c9bee63a79.jpg)
Pressure washed the heck out of it for about 20 minutes. Let some simple green soy for a bit and hit it again.
Cleaned up well enough to call ready to start ah cleanin’ and ah fixin’ all the ole stuff.
It needs to dry and I need more quoffee so here I am.
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Cleaned up nice. Going to blob any paint in there ??
If the steering box is loose, good time to address as wheel as the stabilizer.
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Lord have mercy on us!!
That looks like a rough road truck for sure!
That uppipe makes me wonder how much was caused by the heat wrap holding water on the pipes?
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Cleaned up nice. Going to blob any paint in there ??
If the steering box is loose, good time to address as wheel as the stabilizer.
Paint. Wire loom. Tape.
More cleaning.
Then cognito steering brace kit.
Then tighten the steering box up some.
Good ole oil change.
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Lord have mercy on us!!
That looks like a rough road truck for sure!
That uppipe makes me wonder how much was caused by the heat wrap holding water on the pipes?
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Now that you say that Dave, I’ll do an autopsy on it.
It’s in the can already but now I’ll open it up.
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Just got caught up on your journey. Wasn't it common to put an LBZ intake on an LB7 to help with cooling? Or was that just the elbow? Maybe neither and I'm nuts?
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Ken I believe it was the LLY that had problems
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You put the LBZ intake elbow on the LB7, better flow. LLY, same as the LBZ cept tuning for the 06-07, 05 was a diff motor but still called an LLY.
Just saw a 06 LBZ for 12,5. Seems a little low even for 300k.
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Ken I believe it was the LLY that had problems
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I think Charles has it.
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Cleaned up nice. Going to blob any paint in there ??
If the steering box is loose, good time to address as wheel as the stabilizer.
Paint. Wire loom. Tape.
More cleaning.
Then cognito steering brace kit.
Then tighten the steering box up some.
Good ole oil change.
:likebutton:
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We’ll time for another update.
Been far too busy at work with shutdowns.
Cutting into my home time.
That and dark before 20:00 now.
So into the truck wiring harnesses.
Same treatment plus a thorough degreasing as these have been well coated with various power steering issues over the years.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/c8294e413487c987035f9f93aff13c62.jpg)
Finger stick removal as it hasn’t been needed since my tune and the other truck will need now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/84cb269e8ca4b47fa02c32a049f80f0e.jpg)
Picking through slowly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/acc3ebcb3ff533e44e5326a91a47799f.jpg)
Storing the finished stuff out of the engine bay.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/1cf348d7c9c446ca5cdea10d276f6234.jpg)
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Split the hydro boost in the truck to replace the leaking seals.
Hopefully put the darned thing in the right direction…time will tell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/87d74a1d79405121fce845054fa82d6a.jpg)
Last of the replacing loom. Man did the trans harness hold a lot of dirt and oil.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/f1649bee8d50cede0ae083c6a3ade8d0.jpg)
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With all the wiring looked over and cleaned up it was time for paint.
Well POR-15.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/9d0e98ebe8f012d43691986e4d33a558.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/67d414bdfe2e7dd2285896cc6c417348.jpg)
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Then it was mail day and parts.
You know what’s super easy to install with the motor and everything out?
The cognito steering brace kit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/31fe43fd6cde601acb27cb2934fdbfa7.jpg)
You can even see it from above. Lol.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/62315ea3bfd26d34d2ac61b6eaed4682.jpg)
And while I was doing this I remembered I had a new steering stabilizer also.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/21814b3b6ba74771062dcdad57f76425.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/3dea1ba33d9f045dfe2862e19419183e.jpg)
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It seems I’m missing some pics but alas I’m getting tired of my mess.
New steering stabilizer in.
Another coat of POR-15.
Then rubberized undercoating.
Hopefully many more years of nice under the engine now.
Then last night at 18:00 HH6 was leaving to go out.
I was torquing flywheel bolts to 250. The last of my ARP shares…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/10d8b05a899aed250c6595c6f2005ec7.jpg)
And with a bit of magic turned the engine around and started the final approach.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/87460fa2880c914ca79fefd1a1b15b0a.jpg)
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With everything ready I put the hood up all the way and headed out of the garage.
Mimicking removal height and positions I slowly wiggled this pretty thing into its new home.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/032bc61969a32ac6ae15720784579838.jpg)
Although the leveller may have not been need for removal it came in real handy to match the bell housing to the trans.
On its mounts and looking mighty fine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/f07f7676751d02e762e028e6338c7afb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211001/0824285debfffbbc424c7c5f13f9f9f9.jpg)
With the transplant started, the heart and driveline mated there’s not a lot left in this journey.
I’m out for a week however so stay tuned.
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Ahh, don't we all enjoy a through fluid change! :wink:
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What a journey!
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Great work. You know my hydro boost was leaking and I replaced it with a '11 unit, great upgrade.
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So I’ve been pressing on in the background.
I’ve been back to the city since dropping the motor back in.
Reinstalling torque converter bolts.
FaceTime again.
Was way better with the new manifolds though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/82a031c05bf9e39e30ffbd07f0271191.jpg)
Splashing parts back on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/adb6bae92420f88284a6762d632f75ab.jpg)
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So…
When I pulled the original, I somehow managed to bust a fuel return tee.
When I reinstalled the new one…
Well shoot…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/11347ef000063c4b96fae3dd57c7e6c1.jpg)
So, when I pulled the motor, my buddy disconnected the fuel lines.
I buggered the original shifting them around.
The bracket that holds the fuel lines hooked the return line.
When I was installing the fuel lines, well… hooked it again.
Good news I had another motor.
Pulled some pieces and called it good.
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So as I started the removal, I pulled the bolts and nuts from the torsion bar keys.
It’s been up and down to low rider all along.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/7e5ce47e46cc9349bd63dc5d44603486.jpg)
With no spring pressure, welp, the sway bar holds the wheel tucked up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/5e953e515030cc3b8e91f70bd3337283.jpg)
For anyone who hasn’t seen the bottom of the fuel filter head, that’s it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/f8c47bb6c6fde43c2797c6fc332f37e0.jpg)
More stuff in.
Filled with fresh oil and antifreeze.
No exhaust so 21:30 may be late to start it up.
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With what you have done, why not new return line fittings? New from gm I hear are the best, the chinese stuff breaks like old parts.
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With what you have done, why not new return line fittings? New from gm I hear are the best, the chinese stuff breaks like old parts.
Previously not broken, no need to fix IMO.
Genuine on the way for the other one.
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So when we got back from the lake tonight I spent a couple hours adding parts.
But first I tightened all the darned ground connections and started it up.
Took three really long cranks with a reprime between.
Then she lit right up.
Imagine that a battery not charging message. Duh, it has no belt yet. Added belt and power steering oil, four times, that’s checked now too.
For the record, the fan shroud should be installed prior to radiator. Otherwise you cuss and pinch fingers and ultimately break it as it goes in.
More parts cleaned up and painted.
Tomorrow hopefully get the front end rebuilt.
Punch list:
Front end bits and lights.
Fender liners.
Redneck alignment while keys are out.
Core hold downs and hood latch assembly.
Exhaust.
Set front end height.
Rear bags.
And whatever else I’m forgetting.
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Punch list shrinking.
Forgot my phone till it was way dark.
Exhaust on.
Core all bolted in.
Hood latch assembly back in.
New 5100’s and bump stops in on the front.
Grille all blacked out.
Oil is oil and not milkshake.
Coolant level still good.
Those two check boxes checked.
Tomorrow we push on further.
And hopefully some pics in the light.
Might even get a small drive in tomorrow.
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Short list :likebutton:
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Short list :likebutton:
It’s coming.
I need the truck by the weekend.
I need to be able to trust it in a couple weeks.
So, the short list has a few wants removed.
Next year, I have oil change 2.0 scheduled.
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Short list :likebutton:
It’s coming.
I need the truck by the weekend.
I need to be able to trust it in a couple weeks.
So, the short list has a few wants removed.
Next year, I have oil change 2.0 scheduled.
Do tell...
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Short list :likebutton:
It’s coming.
I need the truck by the weekend.
I need to be able to trust it in a couple weeks.
So, the short list has a few wants removed.
Next year, I have oil change 2.0 scheduled.
Do tell...
Only bodywork stuff.
I've got holes...big holes...in bad spots.
And if I'm UNLUCKY, I'll find a GMT800 chassis and 8 foot box...
Yeah, that type of part duex...
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So to carry on.
The last couple days have been low to mid 40's, and rainy.
I NEED to get this done, but man it sucks wrenching in the rain.
I was a soaked wet noodle when I came in at 21:45 or so last night.
Due to the monsoon, no real progress pics.
But lots of progress.
Front end and grill all back together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211014/04f26e3ae5021bbc0af75d6403b65992.jpg)
As I was readying to install the key bolts, I remembered i needed to change these bushings.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211014/6951a3e7e8cbd71a3707ed16694f7b3e.jpg)
Turns out that they're a giant pain in the butt.
My recommendation to anyone who needs to do these, but the OEM part...
Save yourself some misery...
With poor weather looming in the forecast, the punch list is down to:
Paint outside frame rails (Maybe)
Install air bags
Rocker guard front and rear bumpers to buy time till OC2.0 (Oil Change part two)
Install new light bar (eventually)
Fender liners.
Set ride height.
Go for a drive to assess alignment (Redneck align if needed)
So if I read that right, three things left that NEED done.
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Never a small undertaking, these projects we all seem to fall into!
Here's hoping Sam finds the chassis he needs.
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Never a small undertaking, these projects we all seem to fall into!
Here's hoping Sam finds the chassis he needs.
I do hope to find one, and it should be easy enough.
If it's a diesel chassis would be an absolute bonus...
I really don't want to do this, but have regretted being two weeks late to order the long box I wanted in 2006.
It was a 14 week lead, and I needed to be in it in 12, they couldn't guarantee, so here I am...
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Welp…found one…
Email sent.
We shall see what the deal is…
Argh…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211014/7219435b54ff52d682a6442ec5c4d01e.jpg)
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Have a pop up shade? When you have to they work, you still get wet but not rained on.
I have rear liners doubt I will ever use, probably cost more to ship than buy new.
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No none of that stuff JR.
I just suck it up.
Anywho.
Drive the truck trunk to loosen the wheels to put the air bags in.
No beuno.
Assembled what could be and am calling it a night.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/aee2ee9f33642e6e39964368933db591.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211015/ea62fd525960e68a7b6c86c04c49f1fe.jpg)
It’s about 34 degrees and pouring rain.
For now.
Will be shocked if it doesn’t snow yet tonight.
I plan to do a trans relearn over the weekend and hope it goes well. It seemed doggy tonight but may have just been me trying to get the wheels loose and not paying any attention.
Going to drive the truck a bit and see if I need a new tune. Didn’t go far enough or hard enough to know anything just yet.
But I need it in three weeks to head out.
So onward I go.
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Oh and that frame I found was no good.
A looking I will keep.
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Welp.
I’ve got 20 odd miles on it now.
Low coolant on the way to lake.
Only half surprised.
Check engine light for fuel temp inlut high ordomething odd like that.
It drives like crap.
I think it needs a retune.
I do need to do a trans relearn, but turbo spools way late and slow.
It’s like it’s in tow haul mode when not.
I’ll talk to John next week.
I suspect the exhaust changes I made are to blame.
But I’ll drive it. Lol.
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Welp.
I’ve got 20 odd miles on it now.
Low coolant on the way to lake.
Only half surprised.
Check engine light for fuel temp inlut high ordomething odd like that.
It drives like crap.
I think it needs a retune.
I do need to do a trans relearn, but turbo spools way late and slow.
It’s like it’s in tow haul mode when not.
I’ll talk to John next week.
I suspect the exhaust changes I made are to blame.
But I’ll drive it. Lol.
Persistence...
Stay at it
You will figure it out
and
Use all of us!
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Check for boost leaks?
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Ok.
So I had a check engine light.
P0183
A quick google foo told me:
P0183 - generic. Fuel temperature sensor input high.
A bit more digging…
This code is set when ambient is below -40.
Not sure why I haven’t saw it before but that matters not.
The computer “thinks” it needs to change the fuel mapping as its “so” cold.
I say that with all sarcasm intended.
Sorry guys. Lol.
So I googled where the heck this thing is.
Not terrible but not far from it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211019/30387f114c6dde7301a3272069b1833a.jpg)
Turns out it wasn’t plugged in correctly…based on the click when pressed.
Test drive says it’s fixed!
Man it pulls good.
Boy the MBRP 4” exhaust with the manis and new pipes sounds some good.
Got a real V-8 sound to it now for sure.
Now to put some I can trust you miles on it.
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Cool!
Those are the kind of fixes we all hope for!
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Sweet,,,,,
Check your PM.
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You need a new frame? Was the donor truck worse?
Wait, you said 8' box, I think the donor was standard box...?
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Yeah, looking for long box and long box frame...
Not that I really want to take on that project.
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Well, failure number one.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211025/5be740ededb30c81f7a7f1b08fd0024d.jpg)
This o-ring.
How.
How do you fail the install on a stand…
And why 250 miles to show up.
Well it’s fixed. Again. Lol.
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Miss it?
It wiggle loose?
Went cheap and re-used the old one
Was concentratin' on those philly-steak subs too much the other night
It died of natural causes
It was of Chinese manufacture
Choose one^^^^
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Miss it?
It wiggle loose?
Went cheap and re-used the old one
Was concentratin' on those philly-steak subs too much the other night
It died of natural causes
It was of Chinese manufacture
Choose one^^^^
Probably number last being everthing is getting farmed out.
But it appears that I pinched it somehow installing.
Just can’t add how it took so long to fail.
Unless I only half pinched it.
Dunno but it’s fixed.
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Welp, made it out to my parents where I’ll be hunting.
800 odd miles of no grief.
Had the water pump off five times on Sunday.
Finally got the thing sealed up.
I hope I’m good now.
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That must have been miserable to do over and over.
What hoses did you use, stock GM? Sure mine are due with 225k.
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I had a pressure tester.
So other than reassembly not terrible.
Some of the not included in the complete gasket set are different thickness maybe than my kit was.
Rad hoses have been done previously.
Replaced lower again as I had one because I thought it had failed again previously.
You’ll know when it’s time. Lol.
The bottom one leaks at all of the engineered failure points.
Once it starts…
But a real paint to change.
So with literally everything out of the way. Why not.