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Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #100 on: February 24, 2018, 11:42:22 PM »
The viega tools i have match the copper crimp ring tool in size. It must go around the pipe which is at times hard in confined spaces. The clamp tool only needs to grab one side of the clamp and the same tool crimps 3/8” to 1” fittings.  My plan is to buy a 100 count pack of 3/4” sharkbite clamps and a 100 count pack of 1/2” sharkbite clamps and use these with my tool. I will use them on Apollo fittings when necessary but, otherwise i want to stick to either Viega or sharkbite when i can plan out the jobs. In an emergency i will be able to use this setup with most brands of fittings.
When i do plumbing i do manifolds. I run pex al pex under the slab when it is Viega. They call it fosta pex. This style has an aluminum inner layer. So it is pex-aluminum-pex. The outer layer of pex with the aluminum gets removed or stripped with a special tool. This lets the pex have memory and will retain bends like copper. It also can be in the sun. Pex b must be out of the direct and indirect sunlight within six months. I believe it is the same way with pex a and c also. It can be covered with insulation.
My manifolds are sized to keep good flow based on fixtures. It is best to limit the fitting count as this slows the water flow down since the fittings go inside the pipe. The water also has to make sharp turns. So have gentle non kinked bends when possible. Sharkbite also has some nice copper manifolds. These limit the number of expensive fittings needed and with Viega the cost adds up quickly. I like to use 3/4” and 1/2” stuff as much as possible. 1” fittings are real expensive and harder to work with. They also hold more water so the time it takes to get hot to a fixture increases. Most homes on a tap are fed by a 5/8” ID meter anyway. From the meter or well to the house i run parallel 1” or 1 1/4” pipe. From there i feed a manifold with (2) 3/4” pex runs. Here are some photos of what i just did at my home along with the sharkbite copper manifold piece. They have manifolds with different amounts of runs coming off of them. You can feed from manifold to manifold.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2018, 11:49:25 PM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #101 on: February 24, 2018, 11:47:04 PM »
Perfect, thanks.  I just don't know that Lowes will carry the exact type of fitting that I need, like a drop ear 3/4 tee with a 1/2 pipe thread.
Those are common if i am understanding. They are used on tubs and showers to stub out. You can also get rigid copper stub outs. From there you use compression shutoff valves. Apollo and sharkbite also make shutoff valves that hook right to the pex. If you run under your pier and beam you can come out right into the cabinet and add a straight or 90 shutoff valve.

***** This is important. When doing a tub valve you CAN NOT use pex to the tub spout. To the shower head yes. Tub no. It restricts the water just enough that it will trip the diverter valve.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2018, 11:51:38 PM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Flyin6

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #102 on: February 25, 2018, 04:42:26 PM »
FYI

I have used exclusively HD brand stuff, using 1/2" white and red, and 3/4" white and red tubing with the compression/crimping copper rings and the expensive tool. Have never had a single leak or failure. Even when the winter ice expands the PEX to double size, my pipes have not failed.

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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #103 on: March 21, 2018, 08:58:33 AM »
Spring is right around the corner so our paint work is going to pick up drastically. This reminded me that others here are probably going to be painting as well. PM me for the discount number to use at checkout at Home Depot to get 20% off at the register. I prefer not to post the number here as it is my phone number and it may get picked up by a bot to put me on more calling lists.
The deal is this. You will get 20% off of Behr paints and primers. If i understand it correctly it is on all Behr paints, stains, and primers. If anyone is concerned i recommend going to the pro desk and verifying the deal or have your concerns addressed before mixing the paint. For me to keep the discount and have it automatically renewed every January i have to spend $7500 during the previous year. Some years i am under that number and some years i am way above it. Our rep said to use it and give the number to employees, friends, and family. So all of this is above board and approved by our rep. No strings attached and the savings is given at point of sale and is instant.

Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #104 on: March 21, 2018, 09:02:57 AM »
On another note i keep an eye on this thread for questions. My goal is to put my entire home build here along with photos of customer work and some of the work of others we are called in to fix. You guys will be shocked by some of the stuff i find and see hidden from homeowners who trusted the wrong contractor.
I am waiting to set up a router to add photos more easily. From my phone the pictures are not loading properly using data and my data is limited. I have not forgotten about these photos at all. I should have the internet connection soon.

Online JR

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #105 on: March 21, 2018, 10:22:41 AM »
Jarod, sure you are savvy to save data but I always load pictures at home on my wifi. My daughter kills my data since her freinds are on diff carriers.

I would not be surprised at all seeing what some will do. Heck I am sure I have done a couple things not right in my room addition, but nothing I'm ashamed of!

I understand using PVA primer does almost the same as a vapor barrier. true?

I can see now why people pay for mudding rooms. I am a week into mine, just the skim om the closet to go.
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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #106 on: March 22, 2018, 09:24:18 AM »
JR, your build looks great. You tackled a job most would have shied away from. For me remodeling is harder. You just have to make things you already have in place work and generally improve the product as you go.
My comment about uncovering hidden wrongs was geared toward professionals. I do see homeowners trying their best and this is great. They ask questions and generally want their home to be right. What is disheartening is when a homeowner is too overwhelmed or intimidated to take on a project. This drives them to take their hard earned money and pay someone who claims to be a professional. This person then either does not know what he is doing or is just a crook and takes advantage. I have literally seen multiple load bearing walls removed and hidden. After a year or so the house was falling in on itself. We had to raise it back up and install beams.
I think that is what this section and forum is for. To help each other learn and build the confidence to move forward on our own projects and have people willing to give advice and help out if a snag is hit. 
I am about to drywall my house. I will hire out the hanging of the material due to an old back injury which makes my hanging sheetrock slow and too costly. I am going to do all the tape and float. I have started prerocking for the AC coming Saturday. I do not mind floating at all. It does get monotonous though. The trick is to have a good set of tools and always use the same set so you get use to the feel. Then secondly make sure the mud is the right consistency for the layer you are doing.
I just picked up PVA primer. I got the Kilz brand of new drywall primer. It was under $50 for 5 gallons. I looked at the Behr primer but was not happy with its reviews.
I would not count on the primer as the only vapor barrier. Every region of the country has different needs. Here it is wet and humid much of the year then hot and humid the rest of the year. I feel primer is extremely important. It is way cheaper than premium paints. What i have found is that it is usually much wetter than paint. This allows it to soak into the raw texture and drywall. This soaking in bonds the mud to the paint and the sheetrock. The texture becomes much more durable.
On my homes i have other layers that keep moisture from making it that far into the room. By the time moisture from the exterior makes it up against the primer and paint you may see several issues. IMO it is better to stop the moisture much earlier. 
I will get an internet connection soon. We are living onsite where we are building our home and have for a while. It has been painful going this route but i am trying to get into the house without borrowing bank money. I usually run up to the library and use their internet but work has picked up and time is at a premium. 

Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #107 on: March 22, 2018, 09:37:55 AM »
I have been researching sheetrock and have gone way down into that rat hole. What do you guys think of the lightweight sheetrock on the market? It is all that is available at HomeDepot and Lowes. It is also more expensive. I bought six sheets to prerock. I must admit i am against the use if it due to the higher cost and the addition of air into the board. I never buy in bulk from the box stores. I usually get it from the contractor outlets that only deal in drywall. It is much cheaper that way and they deliver it into the house and sort it into the rooms for the same delivery fee everyone else charges to just drop it in the driveway.
I usually just make sure it is made in the US and is a name brand. I also prefer a deeper bevel on the joints. The last brand i used was American Gypsum brand and it worked well. My hangers charge the same price per sheet to hang the heavy stuff.
My only experience with lightweight is in remodels where we remove the old lightweight stuff. It just crumbles more easily and some is actually mushy. There is also generally more cracking with it. But, this stuff is probably five years old or so which would put it at the beginning of hitting the market so maybe it has gotten better.
The house in question is also my personal home. I do have a small budget so this time i foamed the attic and batted the walls with R15 fiberglass insulation. This has proven to be great. I do not want an airtight house because the prepper in me wants to be able to live in it without electricity and not rely on air exchangers and dehumidifiers that an airtight house needs. They did the insulation on a cool day. A week has passed and it has become much hotter here and it is still very cool inside the house. Since the home is in central Texas i need to keep heat from the attic and roof out of the house.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2018, 09:39:40 AM by Jared Herzog »

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #108 on: March 22, 2018, 10:24:54 AM »
First, thanks for the feedback. I know what you mean about adding onto old, what a pain!

I used the lightweight on my build, 15 sheets and still had to piece the closet a little. Did seem a little pricey, but worked OK for my skills.

I am very happy with my roxul insulation. Sure it cost more but was super easy to put in, no stapling and no itching! I am thinking of using for the rest of the garage roof. It really gets hot here and the little extra spent there would be easy to justify. It is wrapped with good ventilation so far from air tight.
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Offline Tommy13

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #109 on: March 22, 2018, 02:25:37 PM »
Jared, my builder and his drywall guy say the same things you have.  In fact the drywall sub we used flat refused to use the stuff Lowes carries.  Everything in our new home came from Meeks.  He claimed the light weight sheetrock doesn't hold up and he said after using it a time or two he doesn't feel comfortable guaranteeing his work when using the stuff.  Hanger joints and other trouble spots only become more troublesome.   
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Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #110 on: March 22, 2018, 10:41:16 PM »
Tommy, thanks for verifying what i was worried about. I will go with standard weight sheetrock on my house. Probably fire rated 1/2” on the walls in addition to the normal fire rated 5/8” on the ceiling. The sheetrock companies can charge more and provide less product in the form of gypsum with the lightweight stuff so it is a win for them. But, we as homeowners have to deal with the possibly of a more inferior product.
This reminds me of one home i worked on for an elderly lady in her 90’s. She was a retired Dr. she used 1/2” 4x8 sheets of hardi plank on all her interior walls. The same stuff you see at the store for showers but in a 3x5 size. It looked great and even floated out nicely.
JR, i looked real hard at the Roxul insulation you went with. The spec on it is outstanding. I have opened walls with the stuff in it but never understood what it was until you recommended its use.
I was convinced i would go with fiberglass mesh tape instead of paper drywall tape. But, after researching the advantages and disadvantages i think i will be doing paper tape this time around.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2018, 08:57:51 AM by Jared Herzog »

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #111 on: March 23, 2018, 12:39:38 AM »
Yep, I used paper too. Can't believe I used a 150' roll up, so 3' of the closet is FG.
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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #112 on: March 23, 2018, 08:55:45 AM »
Closets are time machines. I would rather tape, float, and paint a room than a closet. They take about the same time IMO.
I need to look around. I think i remember seeing some drywall paper tape with small pin holes to grab the mud. I am thinking it will hold better but have not had any issues with the plain old paper tape. Come to think of it i have not had issues with fiberglass tape either. Researched it a bit yesterday and it appears you must use hot mud or setting compound with the mesh tape. I have a homemade taping machine that takes the all purpose mud and paper tape. I will most likely have the wife and daughter use that to tape the house and come behind and float it out. One thing i have seen done wrong at some sites is the taper uses too much pressure and forces too much of the mud from under the tape. It pretty much pushes all the mud out. It holds for a while but will eventually come loose and sag and then crack away and need attention. So when using tape press it in but not so much that there is no mud left underneath.
I have spent many years floating new homes and making repairs on remodels. I hated it at first. Then you get a technique and it becomes enjoyable. I am floating my house to both stay on budget and to keep with the trend here of teaching my daughter how to do the work and greatly minimize the use of outside labor. The issue of taping and floating is one we will all face. This particular trade has gotten pretty expensive to hire out. The cost per sheet for labor has doubled in the last five years.

Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #113 on: March 30, 2018, 04:44:17 PM »
Found this on our house we took over from another builder

The half walls. The didn’t pull layout from the correct spot or something so instead of re placing studs they turned them sideways and stapled to them




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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #114 on: March 30, 2018, 07:00:39 PM »
Interesting. I have also seen that before. Probably so the osb did not have to be cut. There is a plate joint above it also.  I guess at least they put wood there other than just seam tape.

Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #115 on: March 30, 2018, 07:34:44 PM »
Yeah these guys missed a page and a half of punch list four way inspection stuff. It was pretty bad, hangers, seams, bracing and of course sheeting.

Thankfully this was mostly another crew.

Jared what do you use to haul your tooling in? We just picked up a box van.   What does your shelving look like?


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Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #116 on: March 30, 2018, 08:55:11 PM »
Here is what i do. I have a weatherguard tool box that is the deep wide contractors box. It is full. Probably about 800-1000 lbs. Every nook and cranny in my truck is full of tools and parts. Under the seat is full. In floor storage full. Door pockets and glove box full. Every seating position can be used. I scaled the truck with an empty bed and me 200 and daughter 120 and no fuel (fuel light was on) and i was 9600lbs.
When needed i pull a job site trailer. I leave it at the site if i can unless theft is a concern. I use to leave all tools inside the home being built. I was burglarized three times and lost $15,000 the first week in lost tools and materials. I was hit twice in the same week. So i got a S&H trailer. It is an 04 and been in constant use since then. It is heavy duty. It has seen 100 mph sustained. It has been floated in a river during a flash flood where i had to get out. This trailer has been wonderful. No issues. Likely north of 200,000 miles on it. I pull it through ditches and into sites where there are no roads. It never came off the truck, for one stretch that was over two years. If i went the trailer came with me.
My shelves are 3/4” plywood 12” deep. I installed 1/2” plywood to the trailer sides and screwed it to the boxed tubing. Then i glued and screwed 1x2 to the back in strips for each 3/4” x12” shelf to sit on. The front has props of 2x3 face nailed. Then a second piece is glued and screwed behind the front prop to hold the shelf. Then another 1x3 is put on the face and extends above the shelf. This keeps stuff from bouncing out of the shelves. This has proven very strong. I strap hundreds and hundreds of pounds to these shelves with no parts ever working loose. I have a job box that i can lock in the nose. This thing was way too much for a couple of Tundras i tried pulling it with. They wanted to go straight through the corners and their suspensions were bottomed out.
I have had several other contractors and framers copy my design and they are happy. This system would also mount well into a box van. I just prefer to pull the trailer when necessary and leave it behind if the truck is enough. I told one framer who was looking to try and rip a shelf off. The whole trailer was rocking but nothing inside came loose.
The truck is a 15 with Cummins and Aisin. I had a 14 Ram with Cummins and 68rfe and broke two complete transmissions before 14,700 miles. Completely burned up both times. I also had a 12 LML which was a lemon and the dealer never fixed it. Pyro 4 was stuck at 1832 degrees and not towing i was at 9 mpg with regens every 100-150 miles. They would reset the computer and it was great and at 18 mpg or so then it would fall to 9 again. That lasted for 20,000 miles before i was done.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 08:56:39 PM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #117 on: March 30, 2018, 10:07:40 PM »
I’ll post a picture of our current set up on Monday,   We have a trailer and a box van.  The box is empty needing built out. The trailer is set up pretty good.  Just need better storage foor drills, long handle shovel type things and boxes of nails and staples.


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #118 on: March 31, 2018, 12:16:29 AM »
Dave, are those cables under the beam?

Nice trailer setup there.
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #119 on: March 31, 2018, 08:25:18 AM »
Honestly I can’t say I paired enough attention to them.  I’ll look and see if the hvac guy messed up. 


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Offline cruizng

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #120 on: April 02, 2018, 08:52:31 AM »
Being the Internet Surfer that I am I thought I would share this guy (Ron Paulk) in the PNW youtube channel. He is a home builder and has tons of ideas on trailers and box trucks that he has used over the years. He also sells sketchup designs for some of his stuff. I have used them for tool cubbies and drawers and have liked them.

https://youtu.be/Vb3c0ZRYt90



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Offline Nate

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #121 on: May 04, 2018, 09:58:36 AM »
Jared,

I have 2 questions for you.

1. Since when can you not use galvanized screws with pressure treated wood? 

Some numbskull at menards tried to tell me that you cannot use galvanized screws with pressure treated lumber, and that you can only use these high dollar square bit screws that have a million coatings of ant piss all over them!

2. Do you do any commercial construction?
« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 11:13:27 AM by Flyin6 »
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Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #122 on: May 04, 2018, 11:01:17 AM »
I do light commercial construction at times. We do office additions and have been called in to do punch out for large commercial contractors. Most of my work is residential though.
The treated woods have changed. They are or were treated with formaldehyde and now are treated with copper or borate. The EPA wanted to get the formaldehyde wood out of the houses. So we have switched to borate base plates and a foam gasket to keep the wood from contacting the concrete and also help seal out air. Also, the galvanized stuff has gotten weaker IMO. The galvanized layer is paper thin so any damage to the coating and corrosion sets in. This can happen when the driver on the gun contacts the fastener or anything in the wood causes an abrasion as the nail penetrates the wood. Drills also tear the head up if the bit skips. The nails my grandfather has used and still has around in his huge boxes are much better. Those nails will be around hundreds of years from now. I have seen the borate treated wood we use eat through galvanized deck staples and standard framing nails. It takes a while but at some point the wood treatment eats through the fasteners and there is no longer anything holding the base plates to the wall studs. I use ACQ rated treated screws and fasteners in my base plates. So when i nail walls together i use a different nail in the treated baseplates than i do the rest of the areas that are nailed during framing.
Certain fasteners also cause streaking in fencing. IIRC galvanized screws streak with cedar. The coated screws for ACQ lumber are pretty good. I have been buying special fasteners lately and they are expensive for sure. Everything is getting expensive.
Currently i am doing a home addition. The guy is like me and is trying to take steps to increase strength. So the nails we are using are the fattest nail my gun will run plus galvanized, coated with glue, and ring shank. I am nailing into LVL’s so at times the nail only goes half way in at the max 120 psi the gun will take. We are also screwing and glueing as much as we can. He provided advantec adhesive which is brutally strong stuff and comes in a pressurized can with a required special handle and trigger. I have also been using Spax screws. These screws are uncoated for the interior and coated for the exterior. They are great structural screws. There are two head styles we have used on this job which are ledger lock and timber lock. I used the small interior version of these screws on my tornado room and hidden gun closet when we screwed the 3/4” plywood to the walls.
On another note i will finally be getting a computer connection next week so i can get this thread going with the photos i have been taking and wanting to post up here.
Dave, what are you doing about baseplate fasteners with your framing crews in regards to treated wood and their required fasteners?
« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 11:08:10 AM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Nate

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #123 on: May 04, 2018, 11:35:19 AM »
Thank you for the information, that was what i was trying to get from the genius at menards, but obviously i forgot they are min wage folks and dont really care.

So the reason i asked the second question, is because i am trying to figure out why people are either stupid when they install toilet paper dispensers so damn low or if there is an actual code put out by the ADA or something like that?
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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #124 on: May 04, 2018, 12:46:41 PM »
Nice info Jared, thx!

I like the spax/torx head screws also. Used #2 phillips for years but they always seem to require extra effort and skip all the time.
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Offline cudakidd53

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #125 on: May 04, 2018, 12:48:17 PM »
Thank you for the information, that was what i was trying to get from the genius at menards, but obviously i forgot they are min wage folks and dont really care.

So the reason i asked the second question, is because i am trying to figure out why people are either stupid when they install toilet paper dispensers so damn low or if there is an actual code put out by the ADA or something like that?

That height is required by the Snowflake Protection Agency.......otherwise the Millennials don't know to bend over to wipe and end up just rubbing the paper atop their heads!
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Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #126 on: May 04, 2018, 07:37:10 PM »
The rules governing the commercial side due to peoples stupidity tests my patience. I had an inspector test every door closure i did. About 200 doors. They test close speed for the initial sweep. The door must slow down right before the actual close and do a cushioned soft close that locks but not too tight all without exerting too much pressure. This is complicated as the pressure in a building changes as AC cycles and other doors may be open or closed. We were also supervised by the army core of engineers who has their own inspectors. OSHA is what most people go by. Their philosophy was that OSHA set a minimum standard so they have their own more ultra crazy standard. Cost does not matter for the government. So these government contracts take our tax money to build projects with crazy safety in place. For example i spent about six hours tightening and replacing two pieces of iron. Without the safety crap ,after hours with the inspector gone, i increased my productivity to do the same in 15 minutes. I got written up twice in one day. I was the only person on site on a Saturday, with the exception of the company safety officer, and an Army corp inspector showed up. If they show up they stay until they can write someone up. I got written up when my hard hat fell off when i looked up into the ceiling grid. Then i got written up for a Dr Pepper in a bottle with a lid in a spill proof cart in a rubber daycare where everything is made to be cleaned daily. The drink on site decision was made by the super that they were allowed. He just had nothing else to write up and wanted to go home. I filed the write ups in the folder with all job write ups.  There were just over 5000 in there. When the job is done they get tossed and no one cares. Laughable at best.
The ADA people really have gotten out of hand. There is a group here in Austin that goes to small businesses and sits on the toilet to take measurements. If anything is off or out of spec a law suit is filed for discrimination. They check wheelchair ramp angles and handrails. Even the TP holder must be in spec.

Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #127 on: May 04, 2018, 08:13:55 PM »
I have been working on my personal house this week due to weather. The first photo is a hidden room above the kids room that we are calling the kid hideout. I still need to get carpet but it is done. It will be storage while we sheetrock and will then be accessed by a rock wall with tunnel from my sons room. We plan to mount a flatscreen and make it a place for the kids to hangout and watch tv and have the xbox. This area is 11’4” X 14’6”.
This second area is my closet. It is reinforced with 3/4” plywood and screwed down. This is much harder to get into than sheetrock. I have hidden panels and storage behind the 3/4” plywood for some survival food and gun storage. The base plate is wedged down every 16”. I used this strong box to brace off of in the attic. I was trying to decide if I should attach it to the house framing or have the house blow away leaving the box behind. I ultimately used it as in interior structural cube. Same with the kid hideout. The entire house in fortified to withstand heavy winds and stand as long as i can get it to. I have customers show me their hidden rooms. I always ask why they used sheetrock. I do not think they know how weak it is. I can get through a sheetrock wall in less than a minute. Even quicker if i am pissed. For those customers i recommend they have weapons in the room and know they can shoot right out of it into the intruder through the sheetrock. I will get a photo of the hidden area tomorrow. For now here is where i am with it.
I need to get a steel door but have not decided what to do. My partner and i do blast type doors but that would be overkill here. It would weigh about 600-800 pounds for that size. So i am considering just going steel and mounting it in such a way that it can not be kicked in. There will be pins or wooden blocks that can be dropped in from the inside. From there i may fill it with two part epoxy or concrete. This may still also be overkill. I have not decided anything yet. My wife and daughter have had gun training from our groups weapons expert and i want them to be able to get to the weapons quickly and be able to fire those weapons through the door and walls if need be without someone being able to get in too easily. This closet is 6X10.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 08:16:18 PM by Jared Herzog »

Online JR

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #128 on: May 04, 2018, 09:18:56 PM »
Love the built in and the storage ideas. I have a couple spots in my house no one but I know about and more coming.
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Offline Bob Smith

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #129 on: May 04, 2018, 09:50:34 PM »
JR, you have to let some one know about them just in case you tip over in the night. When I had to face my health issues, I woke up and let someone know the safe combo and my hiding places. The thought of family not getting my stuff made me change my mind of keeping secret places. Yes someone could get the safe open if needed but then the repair bill would suck.

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #130 on: May 04, 2018, 10:19:53 PM »
Hiding spots are important. So is letting your family know what is where if they can be trusted. I have seen some crazy stuff i may get into here at a later time.

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #131 on: May 04, 2018, 10:32:29 PM »
All wise words
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #132 on: May 04, 2018, 10:42:45 PM »
Jared,

We use a blue or white foam under our “green plate” and the bolts provided by foundation guys,  they are usually raw steel bolts.   When attaching walls to the floor with our power/powder nailed we aren’t using anything different there either.  I do have a pocket full in the truck. 

Does that answer the question?  We haven’t changed process since I framed almost ten years ago.   


I have seen folks use a seam sealer type stuff on the outside edge of the plate and concrete to keep water from wicking under the board.  But I have yet to talk our crew into implementing it


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #133 on: May 04, 2018, 11:47:47 PM »
Jared,


Our nail supplier is trying to talk me into using the newer style barbed nails on my sub floor of my house, not using glue just the nails and supplied gun as a test for the house

What are your thoughts?


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #134 on: May 05, 2018, 08:28:22 AM »
I know you didn’t ask me but I’d say test someone else’s house. I’d want glue and screws


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #135 on: May 05, 2018, 08:57:40 AM »
We haven’t screwed floors here in Utah yet that I have seen.  Going to breakfast with the boss today. I think the screw guns where I don’t bend over look great!


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #136 on: May 05, 2018, 09:38:56 AM »
So per five min convo, we won’t screw your floor.  The tensile strength of the screw is not high enough for the constant movement of the floor. The movement pops the heads off of the screws and they back out.   


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Offline Jared Herzog

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #137 on: May 05, 2018, 10:45:58 AM »
We use the exact nails in our base plates. We also have the concrete guys do anchor bolts so our setup is the same as yours in your state.
I am never a fan of trying something new. This is both good and bad. Usually i let others experiment first. Too many times i hear that the idea to change was wrong and we are going back to the old way. The new method came with a lifetime warranty which is no good as the company went under and opened in another name three days later and such. One area where this bit me was with hardi. I waited for it to be proven before i switched. So i kept using masonite and wood which we eventually, years later, ripped off and replaced with the hardi.
On this addition we are doing the homeowner has advantec subfloor adhesive we are using. It is the first time i have used this with the advantec floor. So far it is great. It comes out of the gun like spray foam and shrinks back leaving some mean blue adhesive. It is supposed to work wet or dry and even when freezing. It is messy to work with.
Most of my homes are ranch style one story homes. Or a different country style but still one story. I usually do custom homes which cost more than the cookie cutter homes they build here. This leaves me with older customers rather than someone buying their first home where they are younger with kids so opt for the best bang for the buck to get the most square footage. The older people shy away from anything with stairs. Even sidewalks and such get ramps as they plan for the future and their aging bodies.
My framers do not screw sub flooring very often. I usually come back and just add screws to their nail pattern to make myself feel better. On my home everything is nailed, glued, and screwed. My personal home is going slow as i do the entire thing with two of my kids daughter (18) and son (13) so they can learn the process. It has been nice to not have a customer looking over my shoulder and no deadlines. I can work an area until i am satisfied. I am paying cash for it as i go so it will take another year to complete. Then i will do the garage and guest house. I felt very strongly that i should never again let a bank have a note on my property. If work dries up they can not take my home. My problem was that with equity from past homes rolled in (due to no capital gains on your homestead if you live there for two years) and all my labor done for free i end up with something of increasing value where i could lose everything. All my money and labor is in property. I just wish something could be done about property tax. I am tired of these crazy school bonds driving up taxes. The county portion of the tax for all the county services is @$500. The other $6000 is the dang schools. It gets me riled up especially since we homeschool and they will not even loan books.  It feels like i am renting my property from the state and will never really own anything.
Dave, i skipped your question on your supplier wanting you to stop using glue and just use barbed nails. Glue is cheap. It is also almost impossible to go back and add it later. The nails will probably be fine but i would still use glue. Once the adhesive soaks into both pieces you are glueing together that area is very strong. IMO they may want you to skip glue to offset the cost of their nails to justify their higher price. I would do both even if it is a bit much or unnecessary for a specific fastener.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2018, 10:49:20 AM by Jared Herzog »

Offline Jared Herzog

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #138 on: May 05, 2018, 02:45:11 PM »
Here is a quick photo of the hidden closet. The plywood has specific #2 screws that get removed and three pieces slide down and out. It is for boxed food and guns with ammo. This is one of several. I will update with a photo of it closed once i load it up.

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #139 on: May 05, 2018, 02:57:14 PM »
Thank god for prop 13 hear. My property tax is around $3k and can only go up 1.5% py no matter the value!

On a side not though we pay 13% state income tax and is why so many are leaving the state. Add that to the recent gas/fuel tax increase and we getting hammered!

Now if it really went to what is was supposed to it would not be as bad. Hardly any makes it to the classroom or the roads but we have nice bike paths and great school admin buildings!


I know what you mean about doing it until you are happy, thats why my add on is past 6 months vs the 6 weeks I hoped. I glue and screw almost everything. 2 second story floors now one over 10 years old with a 22ft span. No squeaks or movement at all.

So yes, glue!!!!

I have plans for a false wall upstairs when I get a little more time. With 2 long storage areas the end of them is just right for that.
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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #140 on: May 05, 2018, 03:19:36 PM »
These are what the rep wants me to try


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #141 on: May 05, 2018, 03:29:31 PM »
I like the ring shank but is it full dia there or not centered for the cut?

I would still glue, you can't come back for that later like you can with nails.
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #142 on: May 05, 2018, 04:08:56 PM »
Agree with these guys... glue!
Just because they're hammer in"screws" won't prevent the top plank from moving, especially with expansion and shrinkage. IMO
... Although I am a mechanic and not a carpenter. Lol

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #143 on: May 05, 2018, 07:19:20 PM »

On a side not though we pay 13% state income tax and is why so many are leaving the state. Add that to the recent gas/fuel tax increase and we getting hammered!



Yeah, all your damn ex-neighbors are moving up here and cluttering up our roads! I see so many Cali plates.


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Offline Bigdave_185

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #144 on: May 05, 2018, 09:32:36 PM »
That’s why I drive a diesel, black coal, Smokey burn outs and a middle finger out the window.   


Oh wrong thread lol


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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #145 on: May 06, 2018, 12:04:30 AM »
That’s why I drive a diesel, black coal, Smokey burn outs and a middle finger out the window.   


Oh wrong thread lol


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Not a bad thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #146 on: May 20, 2018, 06:48:12 PM »
Sending these out to be built, 2inch square tube, 3ft vertical X 3ft horizontal and a 45 attachment in the middle to eliminate the post to the garage floor.

Welder said $130 bucks a piece and we will sell them to our home owner for maybe 50% more.




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Offline Bob Smith

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #147 on: May 20, 2018, 10:28:25 PM »
And just why would you do that? Why not at best charge what it cost you over the original plan, Is it a change order that makes the difference in how much you charge the homeowner?

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The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #148 on: May 20, 2018, 11:13:23 PM »
The fabricator is not positive on his price (buddy who hasn’t introduced himself here) my logic was sell it for more to increase his  bottom line and ours for a bit

Not a change order just an option for home owner to check off


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« Last Edit: May 20, 2018, 11:13:58 PM by Bigdave_185 »

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Re: The Oracle...Jared's Corner
« Reply #149 on: May 21, 2018, 12:18:41 AM »
Heck, that is perfect place for floor jacks and such!
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