Author Topic: What do you do with a 2006, 115k DMax,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, (Read 50552 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #350 on:** April 20, 2022, 10:00:50 AM »

JR, forgot, but did you have 4.56 gears already?

If not, you'll like them coupled with the torque of that D-max engine

JR · « **Reply #351 on:** April 20, 2022, 12:41:02 PM »

Rear is 4.56, found this diff local factory geared 4.56 (gas rig who went SAS) with I was told under 90k on it. Popped the inspection plate and oil was really nice. No seepage from any seal, smooth lockup. Cutting the ear off now. I am double that mileage up top.

JR · « **Reply #352 on:** April 20, 2022, 10:48:46 PM »

Finally got the diff out with my youngest on the jack. He helped time to time when not gaming

Help was welcome doing this on the ground (until it started raining tonite) Probably have about 12 hours into it now.

Glad I did this as the pass stabilzer bolt is rubbing on the trans lines. Tore the cover off and a few other little things need cleaning up that you never see until,,,,,,,,

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #353 on:** April 21, 2022, 12:13:14 AM »

Progress !

I had my 6yr measure out my rebar after I gave him a template. Hope to incorporate the kids into shop things as they get older.

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #354 on:** April 21, 2022, 09:32:24 AM »

Quote from: JR on April 20, 2022, 12:41:02 PM

Rear is 4.56, found this diff local factory geared 4.56 (gas rig who went SAS) with I was told under 90k on it. Popped the inspection plate and oil was really nice. No seepage from any seal, smooth lockup. Cutting the ear off now. I am double that mileage up top.

Shawn can confirm or deny, but I think those 9.25" AAM front diffs are very strong and very well built. They are, however, a bear to set up gears in, but once you get it done, just "fa-get ah-bout" it as the New Yorkers all say.

Great catch on the chaffing!

That would have hurt ya down the road

Flyin6 · « **Reply #355 on:** April 21, 2022, 09:34:20 AM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 21, 2022, 12:13:14 AM

Progress !

I had my 6yr measure out my rebar after I gave him a template. Hope to incorporate the kids into shop things as they get older.

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Excellent!

JR · « **Reply #356 on:** April 21, 2022, 12:00:55 PM »

Yep, hoses are my high flow trans lines. Really taughted as a great thing right? 1/2in lines with 3/8 ID 90* fitting on both ends

Heres my youngest when 5 helping (14now). He is pretty good now.

JR · « **Reply #357 on:** April 22, 2022, 03:36:54 AM »

Slow day, rained on/off. Cleaned up nice with oven cleaner/auto degreaser.

Diff ready to go in, maybe a little overboard on the trimming, but I hate sharp edges. Just happen to have a gallon on Lukas Syn 75/90 so I topped drained filled on the bench after a flush.

Found all my semi gloss paint is gone AGAIN. Ran for some and came home to a sprung garage door. Closed and locked when I left fine. Was told it was my fault when I got home???

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #358 on:** April 22, 2022, 08:22:17 AM »

Man so close to a D60 fitting in there after you cut off them tabs

So close!

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JR · « **Reply #359 on:** April 22, 2022, 02:21:56 PM »

Not really, there is a whole bunch under there still.

All the fab is why I didn't go with SAS. Sure there are kits, but they cost more than the D60 alone. Guy who I got the diff from said it cost 10k for the swap.

JR · « **Reply #360 on:** April 23, 2022, 02:59:20 PM »

Finally going together. Pan went on great, even the fumoto drain fit. Got new poly bumps for the sway and frond end.

The steering stabilizer did not want to come off. Beat it, hammered the sides, air hammer, fork, nothing. It gave after I cut it apart.

Cognito steering parts looked good, snugged em up and applied wicking locktite.

Rerouted the hoses that were rubbing on the STUPID long bolts on the steering stab. Way out of the way now along the block and added heatshield where the hose covers were melted.

Here is what the inside of the pan looks like, all structural and the new alum pan adds to it.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #361 on:** April 23, 2022, 05:30:44 PM »

Someone come and steal you oil pan?

Man, crime is as bad as I thought out there in kommiefornia.

I'd get another pan and bolt it on before you drive that again!

JR · « **Reply #362 on:** April 23, 2022, 06:55:51 PM »

Having issues getting to the fill mark,,,,,,,,,,

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #363 on:** April 23, 2022, 07:42:00 PM »

When I did all my steering joints I remember having to use a cutting wheel and a punch to break some of the links off.
Looks like it should work good for ya now!

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Sammconn · « **Reply #364 on:** April 23, 2022, 08:10:17 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on April 23, 2022, 07:42:00 PM

When I did all my steering joints I remember having to use a cutting wheel and a punch to break some of the links off.
Looks like it should work good for ya now!

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JR. I did all the same as you.
No win. So I waited.
When I had the stack out, we’ll motor too, I hit the threaded end with an air hammer.
About two or three pops and out it went.

JR · « **Reply #365 on:** April 23, 2022, 08:43:47 PM »

Just got back from getting bolts to hold the drop assm on. Looks like a bag is missing, $70!! I got all grade 8 fine thread.

JR · « **Reply #366 on:** April 24, 2022, 10:03:04 PM »

Half of those were to short, then had to get some lock washer nuts for those places you can't get to.

Just about done but looks like another day and I haven't touched the rear yet. Just adding a block I have until I can do the rear springs. Then it gets bags and a swaybar to boot.

JR · « **Reply #367 on:** April 28, 2022, 12:55:34 AM »

Finally got it done today. Everything fought me from weather to a pinched nerve in right shoulder.

2-3 days planned turned into 9. Plus running the kids to school (daughter helped) My 87 El Camino was my run around. Getting tired but runs solid (when I don't run out of gas)

Rebuilt the spindles 3 times as I kept putting a piece on wrong

Krypto uppers, PPE tie rods, Cognito 4-6 NTBD lift, timken bearings, new lower arms. They have you remove the TB mount but not needed.

After assm I was very happy with how the lines ran. Used all the factory brackets, just tapped a 6mm hole and only needed 1 zip for the brake line, but the uppers had a hole for everything.

JR · « **Reply #368 on:** April 28, 2022, 01:10:33 AM »

Had to lengthen the sway bar links. I had sold off a few parts as I had longer longer links, but not long enough.

Found the PPE tie rods were too long (hears about that on theirs and Kryptos using lift kits), so I cut about an inch of each tie rod and 3/4 off the rod. Was easy but a pain for $300 tie rods when you are trying to align the thing!

Put trucks weight on the hubs when I tried to align using a digital level and bars on the hubs. Didn't go to bad but knew I was off. Plus it wasn't quite as high as I wanted it. 1.5-2in above my leveled truck (maybe 2-3in)

Cranked things up (went back to stock keys), drove it, adjust and finished with about 1.5 in front and almost an inch in the rear (didn't touch the rear)

JR · « **Reply #369 on:** April 28, 2022, 01:15:26 AM »

I had the height I wanted so I went to adjust toe again and found the lock nut loose on the drivers side

Used the string method this time for about 1/8-3/16 toe in.

I like the stance better but will hold off on new tires until the alignment.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #370 on:** April 28, 2022, 08:04:01 AM »

Lookin good! Considering the axle change in the front also and no lift. I think ya did

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #371 on:** April 28, 2022, 09:40:54 AM »

I like those parts, JR.

I also had to trim both ends of the tie rod assembly to shorten. Seems par for the course with most lift kits

JR · « **Reply #372 on:** April 28, 2022, 11:06:42 AM »

Thx guys.

You would figure that with all the trucks that are lifted they would make a version for that. I mean it was no big deal for me, chop saw, trim and done.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #373 on:** April 28, 2022, 06:08:00 PM »

Probably assumes most lifts increase track width more than the cognito. I did a full krypto in my LB7 with no trimming

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JR · « **Reply #374 on:** April 28, 2022, 09:25:44 PM »

Another reason I chose this lift besides the NTBD, only uses 1/2 spacer.

After driving today I am very happy with it. It is lower in the rear over an inch. This picture shows it best. Need to try the 37s I have for it after the align.

Has 2.5 blocks now. Springs are shot, 4 leaf pack sitting on the overloads. I have 6 inch deavers, they may settle about right. I have airbags too, but really don't want to use them for a lift.

Quick options are a 4in block, add a 1.5 block but I know stacking blocks is bad (can only find one 4 in right now) or an add a leaf (which I don't have)

I can tell stepping in it is taller, time for the Amp'd steps. I want to build traction bars and add a sway in the rear too.

Sway should help with towing and curvy roads I am on all the time. Want to go "modular style" running it through the frame forward of the axle keeping it clean, not hanging all the crud below.

Traction bars kits seem really pricey? 2 hiem joints a tube with poly mounts welded to the u bolt cup, right? Don't want em hanging way down like some. Figure the forward mount right as the frame rolls up for the rear axle, could bolt on or weld.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #375 on:** April 28, 2022, 10:05:35 PM »

Quote from: JR on April 28, 2022, 09:25:44 PM

Another reason I chose this lift besides the NTBD, only uses 1/2 spacer.

After driving today I am very happy with it. It is lower in the rear over an inch. This picture shows it best. Need to try the 37s I have for it after the align.

Has 2.5 blocks now. Springs are shot, 4 leaf pack sitting on the overloads. I have 6 inch deavers, they may settle about right. I have airbags too, but really don't want to use them for a lift.

Quick options are a 4in block, add a 1.5 block but I know stacking blocks is bad (can only find one 4 in right now) or an add a leaf (which I don't have)

I can tell stepping in it is taller, time for the Amp'd steps. I want to build traction bars and add a sway in the rear too.

Sway should help with towing and curvy roads I am on all the time. Want to go "modular style" running it through the frame forward of the axle keeping it clean, not hanging all the crud below.

Traction bars kits seem really pricey? 2 hiem joints a tube with poly mounts welded to the u bolt cup, right? Don't want em hanging way down like some. Figure the forward mount right as the frame rolls up for the rear axle, could bolt on or weld.

The Fabtech kit had the option of the standard wide-track or a near factory track requiring narrow axle shaft spacers. I chose that one...
Then I found out what that meant
The narrower track = decreased turning radius.
And man am I there!
My turning radius is so bad, I installed a mooring horn to signal when i am "coming about" to the port or starboard to make a turn.
Now, the Suburban which has a bit more of a spacer turns even tighter than it did stock. That thing is amazing. I'd almost wager it turns inside a jeep unlimited.

JR · « **Reply #376 on:** April 28, 2022, 11:40:06 PM »

I think I turn as tight if not better. Might just be all the new parts, but I'm happy.

Wish I could find the other 4in block. Simplest way right now, unless I stack a side and weld it.

JR · « **Reply #377 on:** April 30, 2022, 09:10:19 PM »

So after driving a couple days, I checked the rake and it was down about an inch in back.

Put 4in blocks in back off the suburban that got the "mixed" units now. Blocks were way beefier so I was happy. Did have to use longer u-bolts, but I had them.

Doesn't pull to the left now and wheel centers better but it still needs an alignment, pretty sure caster and camber is off, but close I would saw.

Now it has a 1 inch rake to the rear, perfect! Checking the rear shocks I still have about 4-5 in down as it sits, good there.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #378 on:** April 30, 2022, 09:12:59 PM »

The back is -1” so you add a +4” block to the leaf springs and it only makes your front 1” lower then the back ? What?

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JR · « **Reply #379 on:** May 01, 2022, 12:40:38 PM »

Had a 2.5 in the back already, so just 1.5. Just right!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #380 on:** May 01, 2022, 04:25:14 PM »

That math sounds better

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JR · « **Reply #381 on:** May 02, 2022, 07:43:48 PM »

Well, onto the tires now that I got it alligned. Caster/camber off just a hair. Seems all these aftermarket UCAs don't comp don't for the lifts. Kinda like the tie rods?

The new Coopers are a full 3in taller than the Maxxz 35s, that are worn very well! Right now I am running 2 of them in front, and 2 diff Coopers in the rear.

So with the 37s gearing should still be a little lower (4.30 is the magic number, I have 4.56). My 2 ton jack was bypassing so had to do one side at a time. They fit OK, but look a little squeezed and I heard a rub turning backing out of the driveway.

So I will drive for a couple days and see how it feels. I have the option of going right back to 35s. I have 3 new mixed tires (2 ironman/1 toyo) and the 1/2 used cooper on the back already.

Also dropped the stock spare (only 16 years old) and found I can put a 33 in there as is. If I bolt on the Ruenel I have I should be able to get a couple more inches there and keep a real spare in the spare spot.

Heres with 35s, then 37s, tire diff.

Maybe 36s, but then I have to buy new?

Nate · « **Reply #382 on:** May 02, 2022, 08:25:32 PM »

Have you re-adjusted your headlights to compensate for the lift and the squat?

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #383 on:** May 02, 2022, 09:11:51 PM »

Man them 37’s looks so awesome on the truck. Love it with black wheels

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KensAuto · « **Reply #384 on:** May 02, 2022, 09:14:32 PM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on May 02, 2022, 09:11:51 PM

Man them 37’s looks so awesome on the truck. Love it with black wheels

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Agree. Looks good

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #385 on:** May 03, 2022, 06:33:17 AM »

Looks good Jr. Where is it rubbing? Have you spaced the front bumper out?

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #386 on:** May 03, 2022, 08:14:48 AM »

Personally, I think 37's along with 4.56 gears with that D-max and Ally is the best setup.

Yesterday I took my 4,500 dump trailer and loaded it with 10 yards + of damp mulch and pulled it just fine. That much hardwood mulch towers 2-3 feet above the 3 foot sides of the dumper. Had to be 20,000 lbs. back there and I went up and down these KY hills right at speed.

37's and get used to the rubbing.

One thing you'll have to do is to massage the metal in the aft of the wheel well. Then heat and bend the wheel liner aft and finally use something like Gorilla tape to pull it all the way back. Even with that, my tires will catch it when flexing off road and every month or so, I have to pull and re-tape. You, may not be flexing as much as I do, as my truck gets W A Y off road like all the time.

JR · « **Reply #387 on:** May 03, 2022, 12:09:20 PM »

Did the fender mod long time ago. Think I posted about it with a link even. Just catches there on a good bump and I moved the step back an inch. Then trimmed the front dam another 1/2in.

JR · « **Reply #388 on:** May 03, 2022, 08:56:35 PM »

Put around 100mi on it today. Need to have the balance checked as I had a little vibration at speed. Speedo is down about 4mph at 70mph per the gps, was
about 2mph up with the 35s when they were 34.

Also measured for parking clearance and I'm at 70in, just about right as many places I go seem to have a 7'2" clearance. Used to hit the antenna sometimes, now I'm up 3in more.

JR · « **Reply #389 on:** May 08, 2022, 03:33:37 PM »

After a couple hundred miles, I want to go back to 35s. Drives great but wonders a little. No issue with power with the gearing, mileage is OK.

Unless I raise it more it hits all the time in front and I have an issue in the rear too. Seems the axle is offset a little and I get a good rub on the left just hitting a mild bump or pushing the go peddle. Traction bars will help and I am checking the track too as it looks a little shifted too. Rub is bad enough on the rear left it rubbed through the flair, this pic is after I tweaked it some.

Tire prices are crazy, but I can mount myself. Haven't tried the balancer yet, thinking of going with beads? I have a sorta 35 inch set now (1 used, 1 toyo and 2 ironmans). Other option is online, set are going for 800-1000.

JR · « **Reply #390 on:** May 09, 2022, 03:13:11 PM »

Went looking for tires this AM. Anything in this size is around $400, bargains were $1500 OTD, ouch.

While there I picked up 4x10oz tire beads and will mount up 35" Ironmans (have 2, ordered 2 more). Come from LA so I get em in a day. So including the beads, tax and all these are $900. They get great reviews. If the beads don't work I need an adapter for my balancer to use it on these.

By selling the 37s I have now I am ahead. Then I still have my old rims, some H2 rims and a new Toyo MT to sell.

My johnny joints came in, picked up 2" od tube last week and have poly ends already. Just need to make the mounts and figure if I want to weld to the frame or bolt on, opinions? So into them for about $300 vs the $600+ ready to go. Oh, anyone have a pair of dmax ubolt axle u-bolt plates?

JR · « **Reply #391 on:** May 15, 2022, 08:03:07 PM »

Swapped em out for Ironman 35x12.50x17s. Used beads in em, never used them before.

At first they shook like crazy getting on the freeway, but smoothed right out. Have a few trips now and seem to be working good.

Tires are a little noisy, but not crazy. probably wear a little faster but are F rated and less than $900 delivered.

Mileage is back up a little, speedo almost dead on and no rubbing anytime. Still 2k rpm at 70mph.

Next is a cover the drivers seat that is cracking and starting to tear and repair the dash lights and fuel gauge. Have a new seat cover. Fuel gauge starting acting up about a month ago, then worked, now pointing between 6 and 9 all the time. Have LEDS and ordered the motors.

JR · « **Reply #392 on:** May 15, 2022, 08:03:59 PM »

Listed the tires on FB for $1200, sold for $1100 in 10 minutes

JR · « **Reply #393 on:** May 15, 2022, 11:36:38 PM »

Guy never showed up but boy was there interest!

Got the full 1200 for them, it was a matter of who would pay me first.

JR · « **Reply #394 on:** May 17, 2022, 11:18:37 PM »

So far so good on the tires with beads. Don't even think about really, smooth. I got those at Americas tires, came with special seal and nice caps to let you know about the beads. $11 a bag.

No rubbing at all, mileage is back up too. 18-20 at 70mph/2k rpm

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #395 on:** May 17, 2022, 11:55:10 PM »

How do you know how much of them to put in a tire? Is there some type of weight per tire size ?

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JR · « **Reply #396 on:** May 18, 2022, 12:20:52 AM »

Yep, several sites say 10oz bag for a 35 in tire. They mostly said they use em for trailers which sounds good too.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #397 on:** May 18, 2022, 11:29:22 AM »

Quote from: JR on May 18, 2022, 12:20:52 AM

Yep, several sites say 10oz bag for a 35 in tire. They mostly said they use em for trailers which sounds good too.

That sounds like a bit too much, JR
I've been running beads since 2012
I think 7 oz is about right.
I am using 7oz in all 8 of my 37in tires with good success. Like almost no vibration, ever.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #398 on:** May 18, 2022, 01:51:24 PM »

In my novice thinking. Would I pay to balance the tire, see how far out of wack it and and add beads accordingly to the weight required?

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JR · « **Reply #399 on:** May 18, 2022, 02:07:35 PM »

Sites I looked at said 10oz for a 35, so I went with that. Sure it would depend on the tire too. Im happy so far. I have never heard the beads at all.

Dave, to much cant hurt from what I gather. If balanced and you want it to adjust as they ware, maybe a few oz, but I'm no expert.

Just read that Goodyear bought Cooper.